CORNELL
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
Cornell University Library
DT 361.P48 1891
New light on dark Africa:
3 1924 028 752 750 .......i
Cornell University
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NEW LIGHT ON DAEK AFRICA.
DR. CARL PETERS.
Di" E Altept i C9 lictogp
New Light on Dark Africa:
BEING THE NARRATIVE OF
TLbc (Berman jemin jpasba lEypeMtion,
ITS JOURNEYINGS AND ADVENTURES AMONG THE NATIVE TRIBES
OF EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA, THE GALLAS, MASSAIS,
WASUKUMA, ETC., ETC.^ ON THE LAKE BARINGO
AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA.
RELATED BY
DR. CARL PETERS,
THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.
TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN BY
H. W. DULCKEN, Ph.D.
WITH THIRTY-TWO PAGE ENGRAVINGS AND SIXTY-FIVE OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DESIGNS BY
RUDOLF HELLGREWE, AND A LARGE EXPLANATORY COLOURED MAP, REPRESENTING
THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION FROM DAY TO DAY.
WARD, LOCK, AND Co.,
LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE.
1891.
{All Rights Reserved.]
5
Printed by Hazell, Watson, &' Finey, Ld., London and Aylesbury.
AUTHOR'S PHEFACE.
"TN the following representation of the German Emin
-L Pasha Expedition I have to give as clear a picture
as possible of the outward course and of the inward con-
nection of the German enterprise undertaken for the purpose
of aiding Emin Pasha to maintain his position on the Upper
Nile. The narrative, written down immediately after the
conclusion of the expedition, is based upon our memoranda
and upon reports received on the spot, and may accordingly
also in its subjective sense claim to possess the value of
truthful instantaneous photographic representations. Upon
the correctness of the views expressed on separate points
there will be disputes ; but I shall consider my task in the
following book as fulfilled if, allowing for this diversity of
opinion, I have succeeded in enabling the reader to form an
accurate and a clear conception of the external and the in-
ward course of the German Emin Pasha Expedition.
Such being my endeavour, I am scarcely called upon to
offer an apology for beginning the narrative of the undertaking
with the enterprise itself, instead of giving a detailed prelimi-
nary history, reaching back, if possible, to the times of the
Pharaohs. I take it for granted that the reader of this book,
when he takes it into his hand, just wants to know what
was the course of our expedition, and will be glad to dispense
with details which he will find in a better and more connected
vi AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
form in other books, and which are not at all necessary for
the comprehension of the following narrative.
Now that I am giving to the public this history of the
German Emin Pasha Expedition, I am obeying an impulse
of my heart in once more expressing my thanks to those
to whose co-operation it must be attributed that the under-
taking ended in the manner described in the following
pages, and that it did not collapse at the very beginning,
or come to a tragic conclusion on the continent of Africa,
as it often appeared about to do. In this place I publicly
offer my thanks to the men who, in the German Emin
Pasha Committee, backed and supported the undertaking
at home, and to the high-hearted subscribers who, by their
liberal and ready assistance, enabled our expedition to be
realised. I also thank my comrades in the expedition
yonder, among whom Herr von Tiedemann was my constant
and faithful companion, while Herr Oskar Borchert proved, by
his journey up the Tana, that he was imbued with the spirit
which alone can achieve the right result in such affairs.
But after all, even with such support, I should not
have been in a position to write a description of the
German Emin Pasha Expedition had not a higher Hand
manifestly led us, through all hindrances and dangers,
back to our native land. In all humility we have to offer
thanks to Providence that it has been vouchsafed to us
to return home in safety from the elevated plateaus of
Leikipia and from the incalculable entanglements in the
countries on Lake Victoria.
CARL PETERS.
Essen, "Auf dem Hugel,"
February 1st, 1891.
PEEFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.
THE book here offered to the English public, in a form which
every effort has been made to render an attractive one,
has already, in its original German garb, been received with
emphatic appreciation and general approval by a large number
of readers. Accordingly, the publishers consider themselves
justified in looking confidently forward to an equal measure of
success for this, the English edition of Dr. Peters's valuable
and interesting work.
The question of the opening up of Dark Africa, with its
vast prospects for trade, commerce, and agriculture, and still
more important capabilities for the diffusion of Christianity and
the spread of civilisation, is coming more and more to the front,
and occupies a continually increasing amount of public atten-
tion. The natural desire for information on this great and
important subject has been increased and stimulated by the
works on the African continent, that have lately appeared from
the pens of eminent travellers and explorers ; the more so, per-
haps, from the wide divergences in the views and the methods
of action advocated by the various authors.
It has always been the custom in England, " according to
the fair play of the world," to give an impartial hearing to the
different statements put forward by those whose experience
and labours entitle them to speak on an important subject.
Englishmen like to know what each man has to say, rather
than giA'e their unhesitating adhesion to the perhaps dogmatic
views of any one writer. " In a multitude of counsellors there is
wisdom ; " — -and nowhere more than on the question of carrying
viii PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.
forward the banner of culture and Christianity into regions now
desert, but where, in future ages, civilisation's lofty scenes shall —
" Be acted over,
In states unborn, and accents yet unknown."
Among those writers who have earned an incontrovertible
right to be listened to with respect, Dr. Carl Peters undoubtedly
stands in the first rank. That he has, in the fullest sense of the
term, thrown " New Light " upon Dark Africa, no unprejudiced
and impartial reader of his work will for a moment be disposed
to doubt. Fearlessly, and with a transparent honesty of inten-
tion which will especially commend itself to English sympathies,
he claims for his country a share in the great work of the
civilisation of Africa ; criticises his competitors with outspoken
frankness, without withholding from them his meed of admira-
tion ; protests boldly where he considers himself hardly dealt
with ; points out what he considers to have been errors in judg-
ment and action, and gives his reasons in every case. He has
the courage of his opinions, and his trumpet gives no uncertain
sound ; but while he frankly dispenses praise and blame, he tells
his own story with an equally plain straightforwardness, and an
absence alike of self-laudation and self-depreciation singularly
graceful in a man who has passed through great perils, and
achieved very remarkable results, with very moderate means.
Mr. Stanley, in a passage in his "Darkest Africa'' (Vol. II.,
p. 406), says: "It is to be the destiny of the Germans to carry
out this work " (the civilisation of Ugogo), " and," he adds, " I
envy them." The leader of the enterprise here recorded under-
took it in this spirit. No man more completely dedicated himself
to a great task, or carried it out with more persistent devotion
and daring ; and in every page the reader will see vindicated
the soundness of the judgment that placed Dr. Carl Peters in
authority as the head of a most important national undertaking.
Various fallacies dissipated, a fund of useful information
gained, and the ground prepared for future work and progress in
Africa, may justly be chronicled as constituting the triumphant
results of the German Emin Pasha Expedition.
H. W. D.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
IN GERMANY.
PAGE
First Ideas of an Expedition. — Stanley's Departure for Africa. — Steps
towards a German Expedition. — Managing Committee Appointed.
— Amountof Money Required. — Dr. Peters Appointed Commander.
— Arrangements with Lieutenant Wissmann. — State of Eastern
Africa. — Encouragement from Prince Bismarck. — Proposed Tana
Route. — Rumours concerning Emin Pasha. — Communication from
Count Herbert von Bismarck. — The Expedition to Start under
Dr. Peters. — Choosing Officers. — Doubts and Difficulties in
Prospect ........... 1 — 18
CHAPTER II.
IN ZANZIBAR AND THE BLOCKABED TERRITORY.
Insurrectionary Districts to be Avoided. — Supply of Soldiers and
Porters. — Shipping Arms. — In Aden. — Commencement of Diffi-
culties.— Prohibitions and Restrictions. — Landing at Merka
Abandoned. — Vexatious Proceedings and Useless EffiDrts in Zan-
zibar.— Threats of the Sultan. — The Neoera Chartered. — Confisca-
tion of Weapons. — Report to the Committee. — By Steamer to
Bagamoyo. — Departure of Herr Bley. — Conference with Admiral
Fremantle. — Authority from the Committee. — Departure for
Dar-es-Salam. — The Voyage. — Alarm of Eire. — Scarcity of Water.
— Danger of Shipwreck. — Arrival at Kwaihu Bay. — At Pasa. —
Embarkation of Recruits. — Proceedings of Admiral Eremantle. —
Ifavigation in Dhows. — Siyu Canal. — Passage to Shimbye. —
Arrival in Witu 19—45
CHAPTER III.
IN THE SULTANATE OF WITU.
Success of the Commander's Plan. — Delay and Doings at Shimbye.—
Report to Germany. — Visit to Wanga. — Exaggerated Reports. —
A Hurried Departure. — H.B.M.S. Boadicea and the Blockade. —
X COXTKXTS.
PAGE
Landing of the Expedition at Mgine. — Eendezvous at Hindi. —
The ^^eoera Brought to Book.—" Where is Dr. Peters ? "—Diplo-
matic Correspondence with Admiral Fremantle. — Letter Received
from Herr Borchert. — The Neoera Seized and Taken to Zanzibar.
— The Consequent " Nemra Lawsuit." — Difficulty of Procuring
Porters. — Division of the Expedition. — Porterage. — Disciplining
the Company. — Manners of the Natives. — Character of the
Somalis. — Troubles of the Rainy Season. — The Start from Hindi.
— Unruliness of the Porters. — Missing Loads and Deserting
Bearers. — New E,ecruits. — System of Rewards and Punishments,
Rules, etc. — Camp at Mansamarabu.— Our March to Witu. — The
Scenery, etc. — Swamp and Forest. — The Plain. — Sultan Fumo
Bukari. — Statistics of Witu. — Grand Reception. — Report to the
Committee. — Negotiations.- — The Somalis. — Sheriff Hussein. —
Preparations for Departure. — Prosperous Condition of the Column.
— Departure for Engatana . . . . . . 46 — 76
CHAPTER IV.
VP THE TAXA TO THE GALLAS.
The First Day's March. — Encampment in the Valley. — Buana Shamo
Promises a Guide. — Poetry of Camp Life. — Start for Ngao. —
Aspect of the Country. — Search for Water. — Camping in the
Wapokomo Quarters. — AiTival at the Tana. — German Missionary
Station at Ngao. — Scarcity of Food. — Discontent in the Column.
— Ants and Mosquitoes. — " Shauri " with the Porters. — Deser-
tions. — The Missionary Wiirz. — Departure from Ngao. — The
Boats at Marfano. — Disappointment and Discouragement. — The
Monsoon. — Dr. Peters's Illness. — His Letter to his Friend Hof-
mann. — ^On the Banks of the Tana.- — Supplies from Witu. —
Untrustworthy Somali Messengers. — Rumours of the English
Expedition. — Hussein's Diplomatic Proposal. — Smith's English
Expedition. — Camp at Engatana. — Hamiri's Failure. — Missionary
Heddenstrom. — Dangers at Mitole. — Parting from the Wapokomo.
—Scenery of the Tana. — The Steppe.— Animal Life.— Climate.
— A Cheerful March. — Complaints of the Elders. — Hamiri's
Eloquence. — Hiring Boatmen.— Foreign Hostility. — Departure
by Boats from Muina.— Good News.— Supplies. — Passage of the
Tana.— Arab Treachery. — Nderani. — Miaus. — Characteristics of
the Wapokomo. — Interview with the Sultan Suakini.— German
Flag at Malalulu.—Massa.— Wapokomo Festival. — The Galla
Regions. — Kidori. — Nature of the Mboni. — Hamiri and Pembo
moto.— Traces of the EngHsh Expedition.— Sources of the Tana.
^Scarcity.— Triumphal March to Oda-Boru-Ruva . 77-123
CONTENTS. xi
CHAPTER V.
WITH THE GALLAS IN ODA-BORU-EUVA.
Scouts Sent Across the Eiver. — On the Tana. — Sultan of Gallas.— The
Gallas.— The Wapokomo. — The Suaheli of the Tana.— Character-
istics of the Gallas. — Negotiations with the Sultan. — Waiting for
the Second Column. — Sultan Hugo's Concessions. — Mr. Pigott's
Expedition.— Mr. Smith's Expedition.— Consultation with Sultan
Hugo. — Explanation on Both Sides. — Treaty Between the
Sultan and Dr. Peters. — Illness of Herr von Tiedemann. — Sojourn
Among the Gallas.— Von der Heydt House.— Bad Conduct of the
Gallas. — Alarming Reports. — Defeat of the Gallas. — Hostages. —
Grain Stores Seized. — Hostile Somali.— Gall-Galla's Cunning. —
Sultan Gallo. — His Deposition. — Sadeh made Sultan. —The
Treaty. — Waiting for Bust's Column. — Difficulties. — Instructions
to Lieutenant- Captain Rust. — Proposed Route of Dr. Peters. —
Discretion Allowed. — Decision to Cross the Steppe . . .124-151
CHAPTER VI.
OR THE UPPER TANA TO KIKUYU.
Exceptional Character of the Expedition. — Delays of the Gallas. —
Grain Wanted. — Stragglers. — Galamba. — The Women and Chil-
dren to be sent Back. — The Fugitives on the River. — Yembamba's
Doleful Narrative. — Course of the Tana. — Its Islands. — Tana
Settlements. — Glorious Hameje. — The Lion's Visit. — Cataracts of
the Tana. — Hofmann Falls. — Branches. — Tiedemann's Hill. —
Emperor William II. Mountains. — Boat Voyage. — Kiapf's Con-
jectures Concerning the Tana. — Great Volcanic Elevated Plateau.
— Jibije and Mountain Range. — The Wandorobbo Tribe. — Pro-
jected Route. — Embassy to the Wandorobbo. — Tokens of Ap-
proaching Strife. — Insolent Demands. — Negotiations. — A Bad
Bargain. — Order of March. — Nogola's Misbehaviour and Punish-
ment. — Attack with Poisoned Arrows. — Explorations on the
Tana. — A Dangerous Position and Timely Rescue. — Somalis and
" Strayed " Cattle. — The Tana : Question of Fords. — Barakka's
Accident. — The Forest and its Animals. — The Kiloluma Fall. —
Wakamba. — The Wadsagga and their Country. — Krupp's Moun-
tain.— Marongo and his Demands. — War with the Wadsagga. —
Their Punishment. — Tree Warriors. — Difficulties of the Mountain
March. — Excited Somalis. — A Resolute Policy maintained. — Herr
von Tiedemann's Position. — How to Cross the Tana. — The Raft
and the Rope. — Building the Bridge. — Difficulties and Failure. —
XI 1 CONTEXTS.
PAGE
The Augusta Victoria Fall. — Hunting Incidents, etc. — The Carl
Alexander Cataract. — Schweinfvirth Fall and Krapf Hill. —
Steppe of Ukumba Kitui. — Passage of the Dika. — The Tana Con-
quered.— The Kenia Mountain. — The Friendly Wakikuyu. —
Passage of the Marawa. — Solemn Entry into Konse . . 152 — 212
CHAPTER VII,
THROUGH THE MASSAIS, OVER THE LEIEIPIA PLATEAU TO
THE BARINGO LAKE.
Stay at Kikuyu. — The Thievish Wakikuyu. — March through the
Kikuyu Country. — Treacherous Customs of the Country. — Region
of the Guaso Nyiro. — Mountain Region.^ — The Leikipia Plateau.
— The Kenia Peak. — Guaso Nyiro River. — Question of Water
Supply. — The Gretchen-Thal. — Plan of the Expedition. — The
Massais and their Characteristics. — Nomadic Herdsmen. — Their
Warlike Propensities. — The Elmord,n, or Warrior Massais. — Their
Equipment, Customs, etc. — The Gnare Gobit. — Meeting with
Massai Warriors. — The Chief Kradl of Elbejet. — Rukua, our In-
terpreter.— Insolence of the Natives. — Hostile Demonstrations. —
Attack on Elbejet. — Attack by the Elmoran. — Battle with the
Massais. — Burning of Elbejet. — Orders for an Advance. — Rout
of the Massais. — Precautions against Surprise. — Opportune
Eclipse. — A Disturbed Christmas Eve. — The March Resumed. —
Peace Proposals and Treaty. — The Dongo Gelesha Range. — Teleki
Rock. — Hostile Massais. — Joyful Meeting with Herr von Tiede-
mann. — Difficult March. — The Guaso Narok. — ^Thomson's Route.
— Desertion of Porters. — -Water Found. — ^A New Year. — Talk
with the Wandorobbo. — The Guaso Tien River. — Lake Baringo
and its Surroundings. — Crossing the Guaso na Nyuki. — Arrival
at Njemps 213—269
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM THE BARINGO TO THE VICTORIA NY AN Z A TERRITORY.
Ways and Means. — Herr von Tiedemann's Illness. — Massai Agri-
culture.— The Wakuafi, or Dealers. — ^Report to the Committee. —
Communication with Oda-Boru-Ruva. — Treaty with the Wa-
kuafi.— Mr. de Winton's and Other Expeditions. — Arrangements
for our Advance towards the West.— The Kamasia Plateau. —
Pemba Motu and the Wakamasia. — Land of Elgejo. — Demonstra-
tions of the Natives. — Conversation with Arabs. — Report on
Kawirondo.— Candle Manufacture.— Death of the Somali Achmed.
CONTENTS. xiii
—People of Elgejc— Xirobani, the Guide.— A Carnivorous Camel.
— Elgejo Guides. — Fight with the Waelgeio.— Easy Victory.—
March to the Angata na Nyuki. — Grand Solitude of Nature.—
Violent Tropical Thunderstorms. — ^A Dream and an Imaginary
Conversation.— Wild Cattle.— Route to Kabaras.— News of White
Men. — A Letter to a Possible European. — The Kawirondo People.
—Mr. Thomson's Opinions.— A Land of Plenty.— Conversation
with the Sultan's Messengers. — The Sakwa's Possessions. Town
of Sakwa. — Porters from English Expedition. — Arrival of All
Somal. — Accounts of Emin Pasha. — Bewildering News. The
Sultan's Proposal. — Report on the Wasoga and Waganda. —
Sakwa's Politeness. — Triumph over the Mangati. — Treaty with
Sultan Sakwa. — Explanatory Letter. — Advance to Kwa Sundu.
270—311
CHAPTER IX.
ADVANCE UPON UNJORO AND DEVIATION TO UGANDA, TO
ASSIST THE CHRISTIAN PARTY.
Visit from the Sultan and Chiefs. — Mr. Mackay's Despatch. — Muanga,
Son of Mtesa. — His Rebellion against Karema, King of Uganda.
— Mr. Stokes's Enterprise. — Expected British East African Ex-
pedition.— Proposal to Emin Pasha. — Political Missionary Inter-
ference.— Mr. Jackson's Proceedings. — Letter of Pere Lourdel. —
Conversation with the Wasoga Men. — Kiswahili and Kisogo
Languages. — The Sultan's Information respecting Unjoro. —
Guides Required for Journey to Kwa Telessa. — ^Ali Somal's Dis-
suasions.— Hussein's Report. — Dr. Peters's Speech to the Somalis.
— Result of the Conference, or Shauri. — Crossing the River
Nsoia. — The Country of Kwa Tindi. — Messenger from Sultan
Tindi. — Attack on the Kraal by Robbers. — Particulars Concern-
ing the Country. — March through the " Junker Range." — To
Kwa Tunga and Kwa Telessa. — ^White Men in Wanjoro. — Con-
jectures Concerning Emin. — Dr. Peters's Letter. — The Wissmann
HUls. — A Mysterious Visitor. — Marco and Talabanga. — Proposal
to Visit Unjoro. — Stanley's Camp. — Stanley's Refusal to go to
Uganda. — Letter to Monseigneur Livinhac. — Offer to Muanga.—
Life in Usoga. — Particulars. — The Napoleon Gulf. — The Banana.
— The Wasoga. — The Sultans and their Power. — The Wachore and
their Jovial Sultan. — His Visit. — Kamanyiro Kanta's Career. —
Return Visit to Wachore. — Report from H. M. Stanley. — Up, to
Uganda ! — Pleasant Journey towards Usoga. — Kamanyiro's One-
eyed Men. — Murder of Bishop Hannington. — Welcome from
Christian Waganda. — Passage Across the NUe. — Ripon Palls. —
First Encampment iu Uganda. — A Dangerous Enterprise . 312 — 367
XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
IN UGANDA.
PAGE
Fatal Accident to Eukua. — -Letter from King Muanga. — Declaration
of Kamanyiro Kanta. — March in Military State. — Dismissal of
Kamanyiro. — Letter to Mr. Gordon the Missionary. — A Gloomy
March Through a Desolate Region. — Message from King Muanga.
Entry into Mengo, the Capital. — Audience of the King, — Muanga's
Friendliness. — Pfere Lourdel's Ideas. — Dr. Peters's Advice. — Visit
of the Katikiro. — At the French Mission. — Thoroughness of the
Catholic Mission Stations. — Mechanical Ingenuity. — King
Muanga's Palace. — Private Interview with the King. — Impor-
tant Treaty Proposed and Signed. — Trade of Uganda. — Extensive
Traffic with Usukuma. — Objections of Gordon and Walker. —
Freedom of Residence for White Men. — Muanga's Plain Declara-
tion.— Explanatory Letter to Mons. Lourdel. — Letter to Herr
Arendt. — Letter to the Englishmen in Kawirondo. — Monseigneur
Livinhac. — The Slave Trade. — Prospects of the Supremacy of
Christianity. — Monseigneur Livinhac's Opinion.^The Waganda,
their Great Abilities. — Their Customs. — Music, Architecture, etc.
— Their Cruelty. — ^Advantages of Climate and Soil. — Origin of the
Waganda. — The Beyma People.— Comparison of Languages. —
Ancient Records. — The Mountains of the Moon. — Ancient Maps.
Royal Tombs at Mengo. — Arab Account of Ancient Egypt. —
Gumr and El Gumi. — Cave Dwellings. — Thomson's Account of
them. — Historic Traditions and Unproved Theories. — The Kati-
kiro, and Difficulties in Uganda. — Mr. Jackson's Letter. — Dispute
between Muanga and the Katikiro. — Muanga's Message to
Europe. — Collecting the Forces. — Defiance to Karema. — Mr.
Walker's Yisit. — Gabriel's Letter. — The Land of Bulingogwe. —
Brilliant Expectations .... ... 368 438
CHAPTER XL
ROUND VICTORIA NY AN Z A TO USUKUMA.
Mons. Lourdel in Bulingogwe.— Particulars of Mr. Stanley and Emin
Pasha. — Sir William Mackinnon's Plan. — Arrival of Nugula.
Dilatory Boatmen.— Mons. Lourdel's Energetic Measure.— Its
Fatal Consequences.— View on Lake Victoria.— The Sesse Islands.
—Arrival at Mfoh.— Great Thunderstorm.— Letter from the
Katikiro, and Reply.— Sesse Songs.— Starting Afresh for Sesse.
—The French Mission.— Meeting with Herr von Tiedemann.— The
COXTENTS. XV
French Station Civilised Life. — Mr. Mackay and Monseigneur
Livinhac. — Sunday at the French Station — ^Arrival of the Boats.
— Eesumption of the Journey. — French Missionary Boats. —
Interchange of News. — Flat Shores of Lake Victoria. — Village of ■
Boats. — Dumo. — Sango. — The Eiver Kagera. — Conference with -•
the Chiefs in Tabaliro. — Warning to the Wasiba. — Their Reply.
— Letter from P6re Lourdel. — Collection of Tribute. — Letter
from Monseigneur Livinhac — Departure from Tabaliro. — Voyage
Along the Coast to Busiba.— Island of Bukerebe. — The Sultan's
Submission. — Easter Sunday. — Island of Bumbide. — Friendly
Natives. — Towards Soswa — Volcanic Region of Lake Victoria.
— Soswa Islands. — Arrival of Boats. — Encampment in Bande-
lundo and Kuru. — Catholic Mission of Nyagesi. — A Banquet. —
News from Europe. — Condition of Massailand. — Prospects of
Opening up Africa. — Means to be Adopted. — Principles of Chris-
tianity and Freedom. — Idea of a New Expedition. — Results
Already Achieved. — A Prosperous Region. — Removal to Xlkumbi.
— Round through Usukuma. — Welcome by Monseigneur
Hirth. . . 439—482
CHAPTER XII.
FBOM LAKE VICTORIA TOWARDS HOME.
The Mission Station of Nyagesi. — Its Occupants. — Dry Season in
Usukuma. — Good Qualities of the Wasukuma. — Flight of the
Arabs. — Life of the Expedition in Ukumbi. — Luxuries of Civili-
c-ation. — Religious Services. — Musa Devoured by a Crocodile. —
Lion Hunt. — " Walpurgis Night " Watch. — lUness of Dr. Peters
and Herr von Tiedemann. — Departure from Ukumbi. — Probable
Future Importance of the Wasukuma. — Encampment at Kabila.
— The Difficult River. — Fording the Stream.- — The Nera Country.
— ^Tactics of the Wasekke. — The African Character. — Crossing
the Wami. — Mr. Stokes's Business Activity. — Trade in Africa. —
Caravan Routes. — Opening up a New Road. — Settlement of
Busiba. — Keletesa's Cordiality. — March through Thicket and
Scrub. — The River Sanguke. — Crossing the Wembaere. — Through
the Wilderness. — People of Iramba. — Sultan Kilioma. — The
Peaceable Iramba People. — ^Iramba Plateau. — An Unladylike
Sultana. — Importance of Usure. — Illness, Rest, and Travelling. —
District of Uweri-weri. — In Kabaragas. — District of Ugogo. — The
Arab Mohammed Bin Omari. — Achievements of the Badutschi. —
The Kilima Tindi Ridge. — ^The Wagogo People. — Makenge and
Mr. Stanley. — Lesson to the Wagogo. — Demand for Tribute. —
War with the Wagogo. — Burning of Wagogo Villages. — Arrival
cox TEXTS.
PAGE
of the Wanjamwesi. — Wagogo Cattle Seized. — ilakenge's Sub-
mission. — Wanjamwesi Caravan. — Mohammed Bin Omari's
Caravan. — Circuit Round the Lindi Mountains. — A Caravan
under the German FJag. — Tidings of Emin Pasha. — Kwam
Yagallo. — The Marenga Mkali Country. — To Mpuapua. — Meeting
with Emin Pasha. — Consultations with Emin. — Criticism of
Stanley's Proceedings. — Emin's Position on the Upper Nile. —
Discrepancy between Accounts. — Emin's Estimate of Stanley. —
Character of Emin Pasha. — Parting from Emin. — Arrival at
Usagara. — The Arabs of Mkondogna. — Stay at Loanga. — March
to Bagamoyo. — News from Europe. — Crossing to Zanzibar. — To
Italy and Germany. — A Few Words with Admiral Fremantle 483 — 560
APPENDIX.
Supplement I. — The German Emin Pasha Committee . . 561
Supplement II. — Relations with Admiral Fremantle and the British
Blockade .566
Supplement III. — The jVeoera Lawsuit ...... 574
Supplement IV. — The Fate of the Second Column .... 578
Supplement V. — The Uganda Treaty ...... 585
LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Portrait of Dr. Carl Peters
Attempt to Land at Merka
Transfer of the Necera's Freight to the Dhows
Camp in Mansamarabu .
Reception of the Somali-Kawallala
View on the Tana
On the March ....
Flotilla of the Expedition on the Tana
Fight with the Gallas .
The Hofmann Falls
View on the Emperor William II. Mountains
Negotiation with the Wandorobbo
In the Mumoni Mountains
The Augusta Victoria Falls
The Karl Alexander Falls
The Kenia
Elmordn Warriors advancing to the Attack
Attack on Elbe jet
Attack on the Masaais at Gnare Gobit
Christmas Eve at Guaso Nyiro
The Teleki Rocks
By Lake Baringo
Encounter with the Waelgejo
In Camp before Kabaras
Passage of the Nile
Triumphal Entry into Uganda
Reception by Muanga
On Lake Victoria
" How, Dr. Peters ? — You are not dead ? "
Camp in Usukuma
In Usukuma
The Wagogo Attacked and Defeated
The Meeting with Emin Pasha.
. Frontispiece
To face page 25
» „ 40
!i II 63
I, ,, 71
,, „ 101
„ ,1 121
„ „ 133
„ „ 141
,, J, loy
„ II 161
II II 168
„ ,1 191
„ „ 201
II „ 205
„ ,1 219
II II 227
,1 ,1 236
II II 238
,1 II 246
II ,1 252
,, II 267
II I, 289
II I, 296
II 11 366
11 II 372
,, ,, o7y
II II 445
II 456
,1 II 477
11 „ 485
II II ^^o
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
The German Emin Pasha Committee .
Portraits of Rudolf von Bennigsen and Dr. George Irmer
Portrait of Lieutenant-Captain Rust .
Portrait of Herr von Tiedemann
Portrait of Oskar Borchert
PAGE
9
11
20
21
22
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Portrait of Fritz Bley .
The Neosra running out from Dar-es-Salam
" Is Kwaihu Peak in Sight ? " .
Landing in Shimbye
Loading the Camels
Instructing the Somalis
Rukua, First Servant to Dr. Peters
Hamiri's Illustration
Crossing the Tana at Mbuji
On the Tana
Tana Landscape, near Oda-Boru-Euva
Von der Heydt House .
The Von der Heydt Islands
The " Devil's Field " .
Wadsagga
Building the Bridge across the Tana
Hunting the Rhinoceros .
Fording the Dika
Hut of the Wakikuyu .
Annoyed by Bulls
Peace Proposals from the Massais
The Wakamasia demand Tribute
Wakawirondo
Hussein, Leader of the Somalis
Shauri with the Somali Soldiers
Mount Sohrceder and Arendt Bay
Dr. Peters Reads Stanley's Letter
A Missionary at the Plough
Monseigneur Livinhac ....
Musical Instruments of the Waganda .
Household Utensils of the Waganda .
Monseigneur Livinhac blessing his Pupils
Wasiba of the Island of Tabaliro
Voyage Along the Coast of Busiba
• Usukuma Woman Preparing Corn
Wasukuma . . . .
Mission House in Ukumbi
The Chief Porter, Musa, Killed by a Crocodile
Animal Life in the Desert
An Usukuma Dandy
View of the Plain of Ugogo near Mtive
Destruction of the Wagogo Villages
Usagara Landscape ....
34
37
43
60
76
80
103
108
118
128
138
157
164
183, 184
199
204
208
215
232
249
281
298, 299
CHAPTER
IN GEiuiAyr.
" ThiDkcst thnu, jicTcliance.
That I mj' life should hate,
And to the desert flee.
For that not erery
Blossom-dream hath ripened;.' '
n^HE idea ol' carrying help to
-L Emin Pasha, on his post at
Waclelai, M-as alreacl_v mooted in
the spring oi' 1886, by Professor
SchAveinfurth, who was at that
time still residing at Cairo.
Schweinfiirth in those days wrote
^^i^mt^^i^Mi^S'-ij
■:- Kaii..,
2 yEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
me a series of letters, iu which he made communications
concerning Emin's situation, and drew attention to the great
importance of his position on the Upper Nile. These letters,
which I gave to the public, did not fail to produce
First ideas . ° . . „
of an an impression m the colonial circles of Germany; and
already at that time a few efforts, though feeble ones,
were initiated with the view of succouring our fellow-country-
man. I, for my part, was so completely engrossed, in the
year 1886, in business connected with the East African colonial
acquisitions, and in founding the German East Africa Company,
that, with the best will in the world, I was not in a position
to give my attention to any less immediate tasks of the kind.
It was the year in which Jlihlke accomplished his Somali
Expedition ; the year in which the Universal German Congress
held its sittings in Berlin, in which the financing of the East
African undertaking was begun, and the so-called London
agreement created the sphere of English interests in Eastern
Africa.
Soon afterwards, Stanley took up the idea of carrying help
to Emin Pasha; and he qiiickly succeeded in financing the
Stanley's undertaking in England. Already at the beginning
departure of 1887, he Started from Europe for Eastern Africa,
lOTC A.£nc9.
' and in the spring of the same year he arrived at the
Congo, with the band he had recruited in Zanzibar.
I was in Zanzibar in that year, occupied in regulating the
affairs of the coast, and in introducing a few fundamental
measures of administration in our colony. I was successful,
Public ^" J"^y 1^^^' ^^ inducing the Sultan of Zanzibar to
'ezclted' ^o'^clude a preliminary treaty, which in principle
established the transfer of the administration of the
customs and the coast to the German East Africa Company.
Nevertheless, the Stanley expedition to the territories of the
Upper Nile naturally could not fail to draw the attention of
the public circles more and more to itself, and especially the
attention of all who were practically interested in the develop-
ment of the regions around the lakes of Central Africa. In
the first rank of these stood the German East Africa Company.
HOW THE GERMAN EXPEDITION AROSE. 3
When I reached Europe again, in February 1888, after my
recall from Zanzibar, the chairman of the German East Africa
Company, Herr Carl von cler Heydt, at Nervi, handed German
me a memorial, which set forth circumstantially the Ixpedfuon^
idea of a German Emin Pasha Expedition, and gave a projected,
prospect of a subscription of 300,000 marks (£15,000), provided
I felt inclined to undertake the leadership. I acquiesced in the
proposal in principle, but declared that my final decision must
depend upon the manner in which the idea was received in
Germany.
Meanwhile the fate of our countryman in Wadelai had
gradually awakened the purely human interest in large circles
of the German people. This more general interest manifested
itself in a motion by the Nuremberg division, of which my
brother was at that time secretary. This was put before the
directing body of the German Colonial Company in April
1888, and represented the succouring of our countryman in
Wadelai as a duty that touched the honour of the German
people. The directorate of the Colonial Company gave a
favourable reception to this motion, and declared itself ready to
support an undertaking conceived in the spirit of the proposal.
It was to get this carried into effect that I invited a number
of friends of the colonial cause to meet, on June 27th in
that year, for a private discussion in a hall of the House
of Deputies. On that evening, gentlemen to the rirst steps
number of fourteen put in an appearance, and these rerusfng
determined, after an introductory deliberation, to *^^ ^^**-
constitute themselves a provisional committee for the relief
of Emin Pasha. The provisional chairmanship of this com-
mittee was entrusted to me ; it was further determined definitely
to settle upon a form of appeal to be issued, and to work
privately for an increase of the provisional committee, in
order to carry it out. I here insert this appeal in the form
in which it was drawn up on September 17th, 1888, as it
accurately portrays the views in which the German Emin Pasha
movement originated, and accordingly sets forth the ultimate
basis of our undertaking : —
4 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
" Appeal !
" The insurrection of the Mahdi in the Soudan has destroyed
the first holdings of European civilisation on the Upper Nile ;
the cultured world sees with terror how the horrors of an un-
bridled system of slave-dealing are spreading more and more.
The report that our German fellow-countryman, Dr.
Services ^ .
of Emin Eduard Sehnitzer, Emin Pasha, was able to mamtain
the Equatorial Provinces in the south of the Soudan,
entrusted to him by the Egyptian Government, against the
assault of the Mahdi, and is there defending with his troops
a last bulwark of European culture, has awakened in Europe
the hope that Emin Pasha's provinces will be able to furnish
the point of departure for the civilising of Central Africa.
With ample means Stanley went forth, commissioned by the
English, to re-establish communications with Emin Pasha ;
unfortunately his expedition must be considered as a failure.
" Emin Pasha, however, is in urgent need of help ; his
letters announce that his ammunition and stores are becom-
ing exhausted. Shall our heroic countryman, left without
succour, be abandoned to destruction, and his province, won to
civilisation by German energy, become the prey of barbarism ?
The attempts to reach Emin from the Congo have failed ; but
from Eastern Africa the best and safest way leads to the Upper
Nile, and there is German territory that gives the safest points
of departure and support for an Emin Pasha Expedition. The
Duty of the German nation is called upon to bring help to the
tlwarT German Dr. Sehnitzer. But this help, if it is not to
i^- be too late, must be given without delay. Accord-
ingly, the German Emin Pasha Committee turns to the nation
for practical support. May each man contribute his share
to the accomplishment of an undertaking, which not only aims
to advance our transmarine position, and open new paths to
German commerce, but is pre-eminently calculated to fulfil a
duty of honour, incumbent upon the bold German pioneer.
Considerable sums have already flowed in upon the under-
signed Committee ; but to proceed at once to the carrying out
THE COMMITTEE AND THE LEADERSHIP. 5
of the expedition, the promptest general and readiest liberal
participation of extended circles is necessary. We beg that
contributions may be made payable to our Treasurer, Carl
von der Heydt, in Elberfeld, at the places appointed by him :
The German East Africa Company, in Berlin, W., Krausen-
strasse, 76 ; or the German East African Plantation Company,
in Berlin, W., Kaiserin-Augusta-Strasse, 71 ; or to Herren von
der Heydt-Kersten und Sohne, in Elberfeld."
(Here follow the signatures.)
In conclusion, it was determined, already at this first meet-
ing, on the motion of Dr. Otto Arendt, to put forward my name
as the leader of the expedition, with extensive powers. The
following gentlemen, according to the report, took part in the
sitting: Herren v. Steun, J. Wagner (classical-school teacher),
Baron v. Langermann, Councillor v. Vedden, Governmental
President v. Pilgrim, Schultz-Lupitz, Livonius, Lucas, Major-
General v. Teichmann and Logischen, Dr. Schroeder, Dr.
Timotheus Fabri, Dr. Arendt, and Ministerial Director „
' ' Managing
Sachse. For the further prosecution of the affair, a committee
managing committee of five members was chosen from
among these gentlemen. It consisted of Herren Arendt,
Livonius, Peters, Sachse, and Schroeder.
This committee, which met on July 7th, determined,
before any other steps, to send memorials to His Majesty the
Emperor, and to the Imperial Chancellor Prince von Bismarck,
soliciting their approval of the projected undertaking. In a
sitting of July 18th we elected the following gentlemen as
additional members of this committee: The Minister of ^.^j _
State V. Hofmann, Professor Dr. Schweinfurth, Retired mentoftiie
„ committee.
First Lieutenant Wissmann, and Assessor Lucas, irom
this day the attempts began to arrange a co-operation between
Wissmann and myself in the leadership of the expedition.
In Madeira, where he had been staying for three-quarters of
a year, for the healing of a diseased lung, Wissmann had also
conceived the idea of a German Emin Pasha Expedition, and
we at once agreed, at any rate, to try whether it would not be
possible to undertake the matter in common.
6
NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
This attempt certaiiil)^ did not offer any great prospect of
a good result, because it placed in jeopardy the first condition
of success in such an aflFair, namely, the unity of command.
Co-opera- This was as iuUy recognised by Wissmann as by myself;
wissmann accordingly, we very soon agreed upon the point that
proposed, it would be necessary to bring about a division of the
expedition itself, or, to put it more clearly, to set two expedi-
tions on foot. Here, again, the difficulty arose, how to bring
about unity of action in the locality itself, the Equatorial
Province. To render this practicable, Wissmann made a
written declaration, at Wiesbaden, that in carrying out the
German Emin Pasha Expedition he would subordinate himself
to me, in such measure as I should consider necessary.
In Wiesbaden the preparations could be made for the
definitive constituting of the German Emin Pasha Committee and
resolutions passed ; and here, on the occasion of a public meet-
ing of the committee of the German Colonial Company,
of the this constitution was accordingly effected. The sub-
aM'prince scriptions had at that time already reached the amount
Bismarck, gf 324^413 jjjarks (£1J,220 13s.) ; and answers to the
memorials sent by the provisional committee had been received
from His Majesty the Emperor and Prince Bismarck, sympa-
thetically welcoming the carrying out of a German Emin Pasha
Expedition. The committee had, moreover, spread itself over
the whole of Germany, and now counted more than a hundred
members.
In the decisive sitting at Wiesbaden, on September 12th,
1888, the following gentlemen were present : —
Vice-Admiral Livonius, Berlin.
Chamberlain Count Behr-Bandelin,
Giitzkow.
Dr. Irmer, Hanover.
Professor Dr. Fabri, Godesberg.
Prince Hohenlohe-Langenburg.
Privy Councillor Simon, Berlin,deputy
of the Landtag.
J. Ulrich, Pfungstadt, member of the
Reichstag.
PtumpfF Schloss Aprath, deputy of the
Reichstag.
V. Pal^zieux, Weimar.
Dr. Schroeder, Poggelow.
K. V. d. Heydt, Elberfeld.
Dr. Otto Arendt, Berlin, deputy of
the Landtag.
Privy- Commission Councillor Lucius,
Erfurt, member of the Landtag.
Heszler, Erfurt.
INITIATORY MEASURES TO BE TAKEN.
Dr. Ritter, General Director, Wal-
denburg, in Silesia.
Dr. Fritz Becker, Worms.
Dr. Eud. Grosse,Strassburg, in Elsass.
Lieut. Maercker, Strassburg,in Elsass.
Wissmann, retired First Lieutenant.
Dr. M. Busse, Mining Councillor,
Dortmund.
Dr. M. Lindeman, Bremen.
L. Friederichsen, Hamburg.
Max. Schubert, manufacturer, Chem-
nitz.
G. Wittenbrinck, teacher at the High
School, Burgsteinfurt.
Dr. Wibel, M.D., Wiesbaden.
D. Kreszmann, retired Major, Karls-
ruhe, in Baden.
Grosz, advocate, Pforzheim.
Dr. Grimm, Ministerial President,
retired, Karlsruhe, in Baden.
Gerhard Eohlfs, Weimar, Consul-
General.
Chr. Frhr. v. Tucher, Government
Councillor, Niirnberg.
Sachse, Director in the Imperial Post
Office, Berlin.
Dr. E. Sernau, Berlin.
V. Hofmann, Minister of State, Berlin.
Dr. Carl Peters.
Heszler, Government Architect.
G. Truppel, Rudolstadt.
Heinrich Schaerer, Niirnberg.
Wilhelm, Prince of Wied, Neuwied.
V. Cuny, Privy Councillor of Jus-
tice, BerHn, deputy of the Eeichs-
tag and the Landtag.
The feeling in this meeting was entirely in accordance with
the great thought for the realisation of which it had assembled.
Almost unanimously, the conviction was held that the question
of supporting our countryman in Wadelai involved a duty of
honour for the German people, and that the circles who had
inscribed the colonial-political idea on their banner were called
upon, more than all the rest, to discharge this honourable duty.
The colonial-political points of view have, in the whole move-
ment, been regarded as of secondary importance. In accordance
with this unity of view, the resolutions of the day were all
carried unanimously. Among these the most important were
the resolution to convert the provisional committee Definite
into an authoritative one, and the resolution, on the o"the com-
motion of Prince Hohenlohe, to instal myself, the ™i"ee.
Minister of State v. Hofmann, and Dr. Schroeder as presidents.
Herr Carl v. d. Heydt was chosen as treasurer, and Dr. Arendt
as secretary. The general committee requested the committee
of management to carry on an extensive agitation in speech and
writing, and on all sides the necessity of speedily putting our
intentions into practice was emphatically insisted upon. The
sum which we then considered necessary for carrying out the
8 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Emin Pasha Expedition we estimated at 400,000 marks
(£20,000). The question was, accordingly, the collecting of
176,000 marks in Germany for the undertaking. But the
assembly was under the impression that this would hardly
occasion any serious difficulty, as in a very short time, in a
, , narrower circle, the amount of full 225,000 marks
Amount of
money (£'11,250) had been reached. To give an impulse to
such further subscriptions, the appeal, which had till
then been pursued in a private manner, was now to be signed
by the full committee and brought before the public.
The sitting was closed in an enthusiastic spirit, with cheers
for His Majesty the Emperor. But it was a very remarkable
coincidence, that just at that moment I received the first de-
tailed despatch on the spreading of the insurrectionary move-
Troubies in ™®^* On the East Coast of Africa. The thought
the east of obtruded itself whether these occurrences in Pangani,
Bagamoyo, and Dar-es-Salam might not perhaps neces-
sitate, if not the entire cancelling of the plan for which we had
assembled in Wiesbaden, at any rate considerable modifications
in carrying it out. Meanwhile, however, already in the after-
Dr. Peters ^°°^ °^ September 12th the committee of manage-
appointed meut assembled for a private sitting, at which, in
commander. ' °' '
consequence of the answer given by Wissmann, the
command of the entire undertaking was entrusted to me, with
a co-operation that was to be as independent as possible on
Wissmann's part.
Concerning this determination there have been discussion
and disputation in the press. We did not at that time make it
public in its entirety, and, as is often the case, throughout the
whole winter of 1888-89, public opinion, in its conjectures,
moved along a false track. The question of the division of
the command between Wissmann and myself occupied the
Arrange- committee of management once more on September
ment^be- 19th, 1888. On that day Herren Livonius, Sachse,
ImIZ. ^^^ Schweinfurth were commissioned to conclude
' agreements with Wissmann and me, concerning the
carrying out of the Emin Pasha Expedition, on the basis of
10 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the Wiesbaden resolutions. As a basis of our joint advance, it
was determined — and in the main it was adhered to, so long as
Wissmann remained in the combination — that he should start
at once with a small column to march as far as the Albert
Nyanza Lake. Meanwhile I was to organise the main column.
At the Albert Nyanza we were to meet, and Wissmann, with
his column, of which he was to retain the independent com-
mand, was then to take part in a plan of operations, to be
instruc- delivered to him by me, and determined on by the
to'wifr^"^ committee. On September 23rd it was added that
mann. Wissmann was to start for Zanzibar on October 5th or
12th, and that the question of the route should be left to us two
leaders, aided by the advice of competent persons. In the same
manner, the selection of the guns was to be left to us two.
During this period the movement was going forward in
Germany. On the foundation of the Wiesbaden resolutions the
Livei in Gierman Colonial Company joined it. In Hanover the
terest in North-West German Union for the assistance of Emin
Pasha was founded, under the presidency of Rudolf
von Bennigsen. An address which Herr Ministerial Director
Sachse had delivered at Wiesbaden was circulated throughout
the whole of Germany, and collections began to be made every-
where, in smaller circles, so that there was no longer any doubt
that the required 400,000 marks would be raised.
But at the same time the insurrectionary movement on the
East African coast went on side by side with it. The East
Progress Africa Company was compelled to evacuate, in quick
African*'' succession, the coast places given over to it on
disturb- August 15th, with the exception of Bagamoyo and
Dar-es-Salam. In Kiloa Kirindshe the officials of
the Company were murdered ; and, looked at from Europe, it
appeared as if the whole of Eastern Africa were bursting into
flame. This certainly proved afterwards to be altogether an
error ; and the Emin Pasha Expedition especially was able,
by its proceedings, to show that it was so. The agitation did
not, in fact, extend to the real negro world of Eastern Africa,
with the exception of the tribe of the Mafiti, who were personally
THE Rifiixa IN EASTEB.y AFTUCA.
11
stirred up by Bushiri. Even the Wapokomo, on the Tana, had
no intelligence of this insurrectionaiy movement, ranch less
the Gallas and the Massais.
Nevertheless, it is manifest that the leaders of the Emin
Pasha movement fonnd themselves compelled, at the end of
September 188S, to consider the question whether the expe-
dition could be carried out at that moment, when the state
of things that had existed in the "Wiesbaden days had been
so entirely altered. This was the cjuestion that occupied the
committee on the morning of September 30th. In this sitting,
Rudolf v. Eexnigsen. De. George Iioiek,
FrL'xhhfHt, Vice-Pirs'idvut.
Of the. XiirthAVest Gi-nnan Unhm for the Succonr of Emin Fashu.
besides members of the committee. Dr. Junker of Vienna also
took part. I had to announce at the meeting the opinion
adopted by the German East Africa Company, that the rising
in Eastern Africa had become organised under a unity of
leadership, and held possession of the caravan roads. At
the conclusion of my rejiort, I suggested the question whether
an advance in union with England and the Congo State did
not recommend itself, in view of this new condition Question of
of affairs. Wissmann declared on the same occasion, titn with
following up my announcement, that in his ophiion England,
tlie Emin Pasha Expedition, according to the original design,
had now become impossible. Dr. Junker, too, sided with us.
12 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
and recommended united action with England and Portugal for
the subjection of the Arabs. My advice was that we should,
in the first place, put ourselves in communication with the
English Emin Pasha committee. In view of these proceed-
ings, Herr Ministerial Director Sachse insisted on the necessity
of going on with the collections under all circumstances, so
that the favourable moment might be seized, when it should
present itself, for putting the enterprise in execution. His
Excellency von Hofmann and I supported this method of
procedure, and drew up the following motion, which was
unanimously adopted : —
" Considering that according to the declared opinion of
competent persons whose counsel has been sought on the
Besoiution ^^^j^ct,* the accomplishing of the Emin Pasha Ex-
forpost- pedition, according to the plan hitherto proposed, has
become impossible at the present moment, in conse-
quence of the disturbances that have broken out in Eastern
Africa, the committee resolves to postpone the expedition until
such time as it shall appear possible in the view of the Imperial
Government, but meanwhile to proceed with the collections for
the undertaking in the way already adopted."
The contents of this resolution were published by us at the
time, and the news was welcomed with great jubilation by our
opponents in the press. It was considered the undertaking had
failed.
In consequence of this sitting, a report was made to the
Imperial Chancellor, Prince Bismarck, who in his reply, dated
Friedrichsruh, October 16th, expressed a wish that the manag-
ing section of the German Emin Pasha committee should enter
Encourage- iuto relations with the German East Africa Company,
Price"™ ^'^^ endeavour to agree upon a plan for a common
Bismarck, advance and mutual support. Thereupon the managing
committee resolved, on October 21st, 1888, to inform the Im-
perial Chancellor that it would obey the suggestion offered in
his letter, and place itself in communication with the German
* Schweinfurth also took part in this sitting.
QUESTION OF THE TANA ROUTE. 13
East Africa Company. Negotiations were accordingly opened
with the aforesaid Company, and led to an agreement which was
reported to the Foreign Department ; but a new position taken
up by the Government, with respect to East African affairs
in general, caused the business to deviate into an entirely
different direction.
Meanwhile, in view of the state of things prevailing in the
German East African protected territory, the question arose in
the managing committee, whether it might not be possible, for the
carrying out of the expedition, entirely to avoid this insurrec-
tionary region. Wissmann especially, and various others, drew
attention to the Tana route as a possible way of reaching the
Equatorial Province. This route, if it were practicable, cer-
tainly offered the advantage that the undertaking proposed
would be commenced forthwith. There could not, the Tan^a
indeed, be a question of a definite Tana route, for ^ Material
the caravan traffic of Eastern Africa had never yet Province,
taken that direction ; and in such cases the existence of certain
physical obstacles may always be counted on, that hinder
traffic along so great a river as the Tana. It was hardly to
be supposed that commercial intercourse would not have taken
its way along the Tana if that route had really been suited to
the peculiar conditions of East African commercial life. There
was moreover the fact that the greater part of the subscrip-
tions had emanated from the circles of the German East
Africa Company, which supported the Emin Pasha Expedition,
in the hope that this undertaking would develop itself chiefly
in the German East African protected territory. These ques-
tions became the subject of discussion in the German „ . .
J _ Opinions or
Colonial Company on November 22nd. Wissmann on wissmann
that occasion recommended the Tana route, about which
I expressed doubt. These debates on pure matters of detail,
which moreover were concluded by a complete understanding,
already on November 25th, furnished the hostile press with
matter for outbursts of joy, on the dissension in the German
Emin Pasha committee — " Wissmann contra Peters ! "
On November 25th, the German Emin Pasha committee
14 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
resolved unanimously to take in hand, without delay, the
starting of the Emin Pasha Expedition ; and Wissmann, to
whom, according to the decision of September, the free choice
Resolution of his route was left, was to betake himself, as quickly
withThe* as possible, to Africa, where he could study the cir-
expedition. cumstauces On the spot, and select his route according
to the information obtained. It was noted as desirable that,
if it could be done Avithout undue loss of time, the route should
be through the German East African territory. It was further
arranged that I also should prepare the part of the expedition
entrusted to me as quickly as possible, and begin carrying it
out. On the strength of this resolution, we both at once set
about purchasing the equipments necessary for the expedition.
Affairs were in this state, when Prince Bismarck resolved
to take Government action in East Africa, placing First
Lieutenant Wissmann in command. Wissmann accordingly
retired from the German Emin Pasha Expedition ; and now the
Prince plan of a dual expedition was naturally abandoned.
^hangr^f° Although a valuable power was thus withdrawn from
*^°"*- the enterprise, on the other side all the means were
now placed in one hand, and, above all, the unity of command
was assured ; and whatever aspect affairs in German East
Africa might assume, the first condition for the success of the
undertaking was thus fulfilled.
It is well known that during all this time various rumours
concerning Emin Pasha were spread abroad from England
throughout all Europe. At one time Emin Pasha and Stanley
were both said to have been killed by the Mahdi ; at another
Conflicting *^^ former was reported to be alone in captivity at
corerning ^^^^^^""^ ' ^S^^^' ^^^^ ^^^^ Said to be retreating
p^ha ^^^^ *^^ province of Wadelai. These rumours,
which were at first believed here in Germany, were,
however, so contradictory, that we at last came to the con-
clusion, which was not confuted by the subsequent actual
departure of Emin Pasha with Stanley, that they were inventions
put about with a purpose, and calculated to prevent the carry-
mg out of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. For of the
DOUBTS AND DIFFICULTIES. 15
departure of Emin and Stanley nothing at all was known in
England at that time, and there was consequently no objective
foundation for the appearance of these reports. Accordingly
we were resolved not to be deceived by them.
Our position was different with regard to the plans of the
German Imperial Government in Eastern Africa. It was, of
course, altogether alien from our intention to undertake any-
thing whose accomplishment might be obstructive or Embarrass-
even inconvenient to the Imperial procedure. WeJi^^'^-Ji
had, indeed, planned the German Emin Pasha Expedi- 1?^^^ *"
tion solely with the object of thereby doing service to ment.
our German East African colonial undertakings. How could it
have entered into the thoughts of the German Emin Pasha
committee, consisting as it did entirely of national men, to
advance otherwise than in full agreement with a Government
which at that very time, was about to act in accordance with
the wishes of the colonial-political elements of Germany in
Eastern Africa ? If even one or another had cherished the
wish to carry out, under all circumstances, that German Emin
Pasha enterprise, on which so much strength and time had been
expended, a resolution in this sense was entirely precluded, in
a large majority of the committee, in the event of an in-
timation from the Imperial Government, to the effect that in
the present state of affairs in Eastern Africa it no longer
thought this expedition desirable.
Thus in January 1889 we were especially desirous to
ascertain definitely the actual attitude of the Foreign Office.
On January 3rd, the managing committee determined, on
the motion of Herr Ministerial-Director Sachse, _ , ..
Kesolution
"to abandon the hitherto contemplated division offor unity of
the command of the expedition ; to entrust to Herr
Dr. Peters the leadership of the entire expedition, according
to the stipulations agreed upon with Captain Wissmann in the
compact of December 20th, 1888, those regulations being
omitted, which were made in contemplation of a second
expedition." This resolution was at once made known to
the Foreign Office, and was not followed by any withdrawal
16
NEW LIGHT ON BARK AFRICA.
of the former expressions of sympathy with the carrying out
of the expedition. I was privately informed, through Wissmann,
that a written answer would not be given to our last com-
Co uni niunication ; but that the Secretary of State Count
cation from Herbert von Bismarck gave me to understand that the
Her Imperial Government was now, as formerly, favourably
Bismarck. (j^gpQgg^^ towards the project, and only requested
that I should maintain an understanding with it concerning
the steps I intended to take. In this case the German
Government would be glad to support the expedition, so far as
was compatible with its action on the Eastern coast of Africa.
This declaration, which Herr Dr. Arendt and I were able
officially to announce at the sitting of the general committee
on January 31st, 1889, appeared to the committee sufficient
ground for resolving on the immediate carrying out of the
German Emin Pasha Expedition.
At this sitting the following gentlemen were present : —
Parliamentary deputy Liickhoff.
Dr. Wagner, teacher at the Latin
School.
Major von Steun.
Assessor Lucas, Director of the
German East Africa Company.
Parliamentary deputy Government
President von Pilgrim.
Ministerial Director Sachse.
"Vice- Admiral Livonius.
Imperial deputy Count von Mirbach-
Sorquitten.
Parliamentary deputy Count Hue de
Grais.
Count von Hake.
His Excellency von Drigalski Pasha.
Imperial deputy Count Arnim-
Muskau.
Parliamentary deputy Professor Dr.
Friedberg.
Parliamentary deputy Pobbe.
Parliamentary deputy Syndic Tramm.
Parliamentary deputy Muhl.
Parliamentary deputy Privy Coun-
cillor Simon.
Imperial deputy Woermann, of Ham-
burg.
Imperial deputy RudoH von Bennig-
sen.
Imperial deputy J. Ulrich.
Parliamentary deputy Gerlich.
Minister of State von Hofmann.
Parliamentary deputy Dr. Otto
Arendt.
Parliamentary deputy Government
President von Tiedemann. '
Imperial and Parliamentary deputy
von Kardorif.
Dr. Irmer, of Hanover.
Dr. Carl Peters.
These gentlemen unanimously resolved to commence the
CONFLICT OF HOPES AND FEARS. 17
expedition immediately, and to commission me to proceed to
Africa at the first opportunity, to undertake the com- ^j^^ ^^p^^j.
mand there in person. In my proceedings in Eastt^'"'*"'
A f- • T ^1 n r. . ? . , Start Under
Atrica 1 was to keep myself m accord with the Dr. Peters,
impending Government action.
By this resolution the German Emin Pasha movement had
provided the basis on which we were to work in Eastern Africa.
It was a very serious moment for me, when I expressed my
thanks to the committee for the confidence displayed towards
me, by placing me at the head of such an enterprise in such a
difficult time. I resigned the chairmanship of the committee,
which the Minister of State von Hofmann undertook ; for now,
as its commissioner, I was to labour for the object in view.
The preparations in Germany were fully completed in Prepara-
the course of the month of January ; the officers f^l^^
for the expedition were engaged, and Herr Fritz chosen.
Bley in Zanzibar was already authorised to proceed with the
hiring of porters. The very next day, February 1st, on the
strength of the resolutions of the preceding evening, I
directed Lieutenant-Captain Rust and Herr Fricke to start on
the evening of that day for Aden, there to recruit one hundred
Somali soldiers for the expedition. Those indeed, who opposed
German colonial enterprise on principle, now as ever, took
up a position of protest against the expedition ; and espe-
cially in various circles of the nation, the confidence in my
ability to carry such a task into execution, was very far from
strong. But after the resolutions of January 31st, Doubts and
opinions and dispositions of mind at home were of*'"^*^"*'"^'-
little importance, as the basis for the work was here fully
assured ; the position of affairs at Zanzibar and on the coast
would now determine the future fortunes of the expedition,
and the manner in which we should set about our task on
our arrival. Opinions and humours at home had no more
importance in that moment than the blowing of the autumn
wind round the battlements of a strong castle. But already
more real obstacles were looming on the horizon, obstacles
which we could only make head against in Africa itself ; and it
2
18
NE]
L/(,'//T ()X DMIK AFIlfCA.
was these obstacles that diverted tlie course oi' the German
Emin Pasha Exjiedition uito far different ways thai! we could
„-^ ,.• have auticii)ated ibr it ou January 31st, 188!*. When
Difficulties i _ • ^
to be en- on February :35th of that j'ear I set out from Berlin
countered. ,. i, " » !• • x r ^ i 11 1 ■ t
lor Eastern Airica, 1 perlectiy understood what kind
of difficulties and dangers I was going to encounter; and my
]iarting with my iViends at the Anhalt railway station Avas
characterised rather by seriousness and emotion than by
joyful hope.
i
—'^'^
;,^*wiS3
"'*'*^■^l,.t^.
ij^Bt '^■j^ljt^S^^^lrti*^^
/^^-
CHAPTER II.
IN ZANZIBAB AND
THE BLOCKADED TEBBITOBY.
Aequam memento rebus in arduis
SeiTare mentem !
(Horace.)
Februar)' 20th I had despatched
Lieutenant von Tiedemann to
Aden, to assist Lieutenant-Captain Rust in
transporting to Lamu the hundred Somali
sohliers enlisted by the latter. After mature
«=""" deliberation I had determined to organise my
expedition far away from the turmoil of the East African
disorders, in Witu. In Germany I had not altogether The insur-
made up my mind to take the Tana route, being fully distriTtrto
aware of the technical difficulties it presented ; but I ^e avoided,
foreboded that I might be compelled to it. At all events, the
tranquil condition of the sultanate of Witu offered a far more
convenient basis for the building up and combination of an
expedition than the unquiet state of affairs in Zanzibar and on
the East African coast, Avhere the Imperial action might at
K'^iV'-'
20
.\7-:ir Lu:u'r ax umik afhica.
au}' moment be cum])elle(l to thrust aside the interests ol' the
German Emin Paslia Expedition. If, on m_y arrival, I should
find it practicable to carr_v out my great \yish of leading the
expedition through the disturbed territory, I could, even then,
have my whole troo]) carried across from Witu to Dar-es-
Salam or Bagamoyo.
Accordingly, I connnunicated by telegrai^h with Lieuti'nant-
Captain l>ust in Aden, and sent him corresponding instructions
Lieutbnaxt-Captain Kust.
through Herr von Tiedemann, in the first place to lead the
hundred Somalis across to Witu, and to proceed to drill then)
Supply of ''^'^ ^'^^ nucleus of the troop I should organise. I
soldiers had received Jrom Herr Fritz Bley from Zanzibar the
and porters, i* ■ • n*
preliminary intelligence that he expected to be able
to supply nearly two hundred porters. I now commissioned
Herr von Tiedemann to push forward the engaging of porters
as energetically as possible iuWitu and the surrounding region,
in conjunction with Lieutenant-Captain Rust. By the kind
nECRUITfXG PORTERS ;~DIFFICrL TIER.
21
interventiou of the Witu Company, I procured au introduction
for these t^yo gentlemen to its representative, Herr Toeppen, in
Lamu ; and thus I might hope, if I could not do it in the
protected territory, to raise a troop here, which would render
practicable an energetic advance into the interior of Atrica.
Here vox Tiedejiaxn.
For the transport of my weapons to Eastern Africa, the
Imperial Commissary Wissmann granted me ]3ermission to
shij) them on board of one <jf his steamers, the Martha. I
could therefore expect to avoid the disagreeables and Arms
diflficulties that might otherwise arise from the block- '^^pp^'^'"'
ade of the coast that had been recently ordered. I 'Martha."
took it for granted that, also in English quarters, there would
■')0-
.v/nr LiaiiT ox dauk afiiica.
bf consideration ibr an expedition organised by a nation with
whirh tlie English were then, as it seemed, working together
in a, iriendly manner in Alrica ; the more so, as we were
determined to advance there in strict accordance with the
action tlie German Empire had taken.
After taking these measnres, I ]:)roceeded with Herr Oskar
Borchert to Egypt, in the hope of there gaming some definite
JS"-
OSKAE BOKCHERT.
Proceed
ings at
Aden.
information as to tlie position of Emin Pasha. Not sncceeding
in this, I went on to Aden, to work personally at the recrnitiug
of an effective t^omali or two, bnt especially to procure
camels for the nse of the expedition. I reached
Aden in the third week in March ; and here, to my
great satisfaction, I found Count Teleki and Herr von Hiihnel,
who had just returned from their expedition in Massailand,
and gave me very valuable information on the position of
affairs l)y Lake Baringo, thr(jugh which territory my course
LANDING AT LAMU FORBIDDEN. 23
would surely lead me, and concerning the regions northward of
the lake, especially Engabot and Turkanj. I also had the
pleasure, at Aden, of seeing and speaking to our friend Pro-
fessor Dr. Schweinfurth, who was just returning from his
Arabian joarney. On the evening of March 24th, Wissmann
likewise arrived at Aden from Cairo ; and after I had arranged
my affairs, we started, on March 25th, 1889, with Wissmann
and a few of his gentlemen. Dr. BumlUler and Herr Janke, for
Zanzibar, where we arrived on March 31st, towards two
o'clock in the afternoon.
Already during this passage Wissmann had shown me a
telegram from his representative in Zanzibar, announcing that
Rust had landed my Somalis in Bagamoyo. I could not make
up my mind to accept the contents of this telegram as correct,
as this proceeding was directly contrary to the instruc- commence-
tions I had given to Rust. But, on March 31st, "'^'^tof
Til ,,..„. difficulties
immediately on my landing m Zanzibar from the and
Mendoza, I received the necessary explanation through *'^°"^^^^-
Herr Fritz Bley, and this explanation, at the same time, threw a
hard light upon the prospect of the things that awaited me in
Zanzibar. I found that, although Lieutenant-Captain Rust had
at Aden asked for tickets to Lamu for himself and the Somalis,
and had duly obtained them from the British India Steam
Navigation Company at that place, the agents of the company
had nevertheless forbidden the disembarkation of the people at
Lamu. The steamer of the British India line had been obliged
to turn round in front of the harbour of Lamu, and had gone
with my people to Zanzibar. There, probably at the
instigation of the English representatives, the Sultan prohibition
of Zanzibar had likewise opposed the disembarkation ° ^''°^*^®'
of the Somalis, and thus it had become necessary to carry them
across to Bagamoyo. I also heard, at the same time, that the
Sultan of Zanzibar was determined to forbid me the passage
through Lamu, and to prevent my taking it ; and by this, as
it seemed, the Tana route was lost to me. As, moreover, the
whole blockaded territory, German as well as English, was
closed against me, there seemed to be no access to the interior
24 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
for the German Emin Pasha Expedition from Delagoa Bay to
the Juba Islands, and I could not help seeing that the position
for me in Zanzibar was much more difficult than m)' worst
forebodings in Germany had allowed me to expect.
On the following day I resolved personally to inspect the
position at Lamu, and perhaps also beyond it, on the Somali
coast, which in case of need might be brought into the
question ; and on April 2nd, on board a Sultan steamer which
.„ , . happened to be navigating in those waters, and had
Difficulties ^^ ° " 1 -r> • • 1 T-i A ' •
with the meanwhile been chartered by the British East Airican
Company, I went away in company with Lieutenant-
Captain Rust and Herr Friedrich Schroeder towards the
north. I had previously instructed Herr Fritz Bley to take
action in my name against the British East India Steam Navi-
gation Company for breach of their contract to land my
Somalis at Lamu, laying the damages at ^15,000, or 300,000
marks.
When I arrived in my Sultan steamer, the Kiloa, at
Mombas, I was informed by Mr. Buchanan, the representative
of the British East Africa Company, that although I had taken
passage for Lamu, the steamer must not touch at the harbour
there, unless I gave my word of honour that, in the event
Vexatious of the ship's running in there, which would only be
restrictions. fQj. ^ fg^ hours, I would uot go ou shore at Lamu.
Willingly or not, I found myself obliged to give this pledge,
because I still had the hope of having a short talk on board
with my representative at Lamu, Herr von Tiedemann, who had
gone to that place a few days before in the Barawa, and of thus
giving him new instructions. It happened as I expected ; and
besides Herr von Tiedemann, I saw at Lamu, though only
hurriedly, Herr Kurt Toeppen and Herr Gustav Denhardt.
AYith Herr Toeppen I arranged that he should endeavour, for an
adequate indemnification, privately to procure for me, through
Engage- ^"^ ^"^^^^ portcrs for the German Emin Pasha Expedi-
"orter°s^ *^°°- ^ ^i^hed to have these porters sent to Lamu. I
requested Herr von Tiedemann to give me information
concerning the bays and landing-places northward of Lamu.
ATTEMPTED LAXDIXG AT .UERKA. 2r)
After this had been done, our vessel steamed out aoahi, and
we ran to the Somali coast to Barawa, Merka, and Mogdishu.
Before each of these places we la}' at anchor for some days ;
but the Arab administration there was so weak and cowardl)',
and perhaps, also, so malicious towards the Europeans resident
in Zanzibar, that until then it had been quite an unusual thing
for the captains of the shi])s that ran iu, or for tlieir super-
Feitz Blet.
cargoes, to go on shore. The dealers used to come on board
the ships and do their business. After submitting to this
treatment at Lamu, I determined on my own responsi- Attmpt to
bility to make an attempt at landing at Merka. With ^erka
Lieutenant-Captain Rust I passed in a, canoe through -b^"*"-*-
the somewhat formidable breakers. But when we came to land,
there arose such a tumult on the beach,-to which was added an
official order from the Arab governor commanding us to turn
Ijack,— that we, who were only armed with revolvers, were
26 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
obliged, whether we liked it or no, to abandon our design of
getting a nearer view of the circumstances of the place, so far
as they concerned our expedition.
Thereupon I betook myself back to Zanzibar ; and here fresh
events had occurred, that rendered the successful accomplish-
ment of our undertaking more and more improbable. Contrary
to the express instructions I had given in Europe, my hunting
Vexations weapons had been shipped from Antwerp by the North
at zanzibar.Qgj-j^g^Q Lloyd to Aden, and transhipped from thence
to the British India line. By this line they had arrived in
Zanzibar while I was on the Somali coast, and, in pursuance of
a literal interpretation of the blockade regulations, had been at
once seized by the English Admiral Fremantle. As the weapons
had been marked by the firm which consigned them to me, not
as " ammunition," but as " merchandise," the British India
Company also assumed an attitude as if it were pursuing an
action against me for £15,000, or 300,000 marks, damages.
Now I knew that my real weapons of war and the Reming-
tons which I was to take to Emin Pasha were likewise lying at
Telegraphic Aden. There was a pressing danger that these also
tions^witii ■would be carried on board the British India line and
Aden. seized at Zanzibar. I immediately put myself in active
telegraphic communication with the German Consulate at Aden,
to procure the transhipment of these weapons of war to one of
Wissmann's steamers, preferably to the Martha, which was
expected from Hamburg. The captain of the Martha, Freiherr
von Gravenreuth, declared, however, to the Consulate at
Aden, that the ship was full, and could not take my chests of
arms. Then by means of the telegraph, in which Wissmann
supported me, I endeavoured to get my weapons on board
the Harmonie, which was expected later. But, to my painful
surprise, I received, in answer to my last telegram, an intima-
tion from the German Consul at Aden that the arms had been
Useless shipped on board the British India line. I now tried
help at °^ at the German General Consulate in Zanzibar to pre-
zanzibar. ^gjj^ ^j^g seizure of this part also of my equipment, by
showing my telegraphic correspondence with Aden, and thus
OPPOSITION FROM THE SULTAN. 27
proving how it was against my express instructions that the
consignment of arms had been put on board the English
Zanzibar line. But I found it impossible to get any kind of
support here ; and thus this part likewise of my store of
weapons fell into English hands so soon as it got to Zanzibar,
and was first deposited on board an English ship of war, and
afterwards sent back to Aden by order of the British Admiral.
On my return to Zanzibar, a second great disappointment
awaited me. Zanzibar had always been the traditional furnish-
ing-place, with regard to porters, for all expeditions proceeding
from Middle Eastern Africa into the interior. Here Application
the Pagasis are engaged, and until lately there was Mreponers
not an expedition that could do without calling at ^^"^^^'^*^*-
Zanzibar. Accordingly I lost no time in making the usual
application to the German Consulate, with the request that the
permission might be obtained for me to hire porters there from
the Sultan of Zanzibar — a mere formality, the permission being
granted to every expedition as a matter of course. Consider-
ing my old relations with the Arabs, it could not be diflRcult for
me to procure porters in Zanzibar, and in fact several hundreds
of persons had already offered themselves to me in that
capacity. When I returned to Zanzibar on April 17th, 1 heard,
to my astonishment, that no answer had been received to my
application to the Consulate ; and at the same time I was
informed that the Sultan had caused it to be made The suitan's
known that every black man who took part in the *^'^^**'
expedition should have his head struck off at whatever time
he might return to Zanzibar, and that I must not reckon on
engaging porters.
To meet these difficulties, Herr Fritz Bley, who was at that
time my representative at Zanzibar, had, very judiciously, on
his own responsibility, cast about for a steamer for us ; and he
had succeeded, by tihe intervention of the Indian Sewa Hadji,
in securing one for me, namely the Neoera, from the Bombay
Steam Navigation Company. I had originally wished to
work with sailing boats, but, in view of these quite unex-
pected and entirely unusual hindrances, it was exceedingly
28 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
likely that the possession of a steamer would be necessary, if I
was to take up the contest at all. ^o with a heavy heart I
The resolved to disburse the large sum required for the
ch^rtertd at chartering of the Neoera; and this resolution naturally
heavy cost, involved a very important change in my plan of or-
ganising the expedition. As I was compelled to spend nearly
75,000 marks (£3,750) only to secure the landing on the coast,
— a thing for which, as a rule, every other expedition received
facilities on all sides, — I could no longer hope to carry out
an expedition estimated to consist of a hundred soldiers and
six hundred porters.
Accordingly, already in April I made up my mind to dismiss
at least two-thirds of the Somali force ; and I now began to
contemplate an expedition of a hundred and fifty to two hundred
porters.
But fate seemed bent on forbidding the execution even of
this design. The following weeks were characterised by efforts
on my part, if not to recover all my arms, at least to release
my hunting weapons from the English blockade ; and on the
other hand, by diplomatic intervention of the Empire, to pro-
cure access to Lamu. With this object in view 1 telegraphed
Endeavour ou April 29th to the Emin Pasha committee in Berlin,
the'poreign requesting that an application might be made to the
Office. Foreign Office, to procure for me, from the English,
permission to proceed to Witu. After waiting for some days
without receiving news, I renewed the application on May
6th; and on the 10th I begged for mediation that my confis-
cated arms might be given up. On May 13th I received the
reply, " Foreign Office refuses all mediation and support."
Thus I was cut off from all further hope in this direction. I
was now thrown back entirely on my own resources, and had
DiffioiiitieB-*° P"* *^^ question seriously to myself, whether I really
confiscation believed I could carry out the expedition under these
of weapons. . -^r
Circumstances, or not. My weapons were confiscated,
with the exception of the muzzle-loaders and breech-loaders,
which Wissmann had formerly bought for his section of the
expedition, and had handed over to me in Berlin. These were
REPORT TO THE C02rMlTTEE AT HOME. 29
lying at the depots of the Imperial Commissariat at Bagamoyo
and Dar-es-Salam. But it was still a question whether the
delivery of these weapons would not also be refused from
Berlin. Such was the condition of the affair in the middle of
May. I expressed my opinion of the general position, in a
report from Zanzibar to the German Emin Pasha committee,
■dated May 17th, from which I give the following extract: —
" If the Imperial Government did not wish that the German
Emin Pasha Expedition should be undertaken, it should have
forbidden the project, which it was the more bound to do, as
it had from the commencement approved of the Extract of
movement, and indeed had set it going. Moreover, Emin'pasha
we have at once informed the Imperial Chancellor of ''°"™""®^-
each of our resolutions. But to have allowed the development
of the project to the present point, and now to permit its being
hindered under every imaginable pretext, amid the derision of
all the nations represented here, and even with the co-operation
of the German authorities, is certainly a very peculiar method
of advancing German interests and German honour on the
shores of the Indian Ocean, and a curious application of the
* Civis Romanus sum ' of which Prince Bismarck formerly
spoke in the Imperial Diet." In conclusion, I explained my
position, in view of our difficulties, in the same report, in the
following manner : —
" But in face of the difficulties in every direction, in face
of the intrigues with which we have to fight daily, all of us
here, I am proud to say, are only the more firmly resolved to
carry on the undertaking to the utmost verge of possibility.
The blockade extends from 2° 10' to 10° 28' south latitude,
and there are still points of access enough, which the jj^tg^^jj^^.
European powers, Germany and England, have no Uon to
legitimate pretext for closing against the German
Emin Pasha Expedition. If our weapons are permanently
confiscated, we shall procure compensation. We shall certainly
be powerless against violence by sea. But once in the interior
we shall, for the time, be masters of the situation."
The report concludes with the expressed conviction : " If
30 .V^ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the political circles in Germany and we here work on together,
resolutely and unbewildered, in this persuasion, we shall accom-
plish our purpose, as there is a providential Power that rules
over human affairs. In this firm conviction I remain, with
perfect esteem, etc."
Thus the resolution was firmly upheld, under no circum-
stances to abandon the expedition until mechanical obstacles
rendered a further advance entirely impossible.
Meanwhile, in the beginning of May, the Necera had arrived
Thesteamerat Zanzibar. The steamer proved to be a very sturdy
"Neoera." ^^^^le craft, that could make her eleven miles an hour,
and I considered her of the first importance for the prosecution
of our enterprise. By means of the Necera, if it came to the
worst, I had the power of bringing weapons from some other
part of the Indian Ocean, and, before all other things, it became
possible for me to collect porters on the coast, and event-
ually to evade the blockade. In the first instance, I put the
little craft in the service of the Imperial commissariat, as the
Wissmann steamers had not yet arrived, and it was especially
important, before all things, to get my muzzle-loaders and my
ammunition away from Bagamoyo and Dar-es-Salam. I also
depended especially, for the enlisting of porters, on Bagamoyo,
where Lieutenant-Captain Rust, who commanded our Somalis
there, had already established relations for this purpose with
the French mission.
On May 17th I crossed over for the first time to Bagamoyo,
in the Necera ; and during this passage, as happened to me
repeatedly during the expedition, I suddenly felt pene-
Bagamoyo, trated With a profound certamty that the undertaking
was destined to be put into practice in spite of all
difficulties, and, so far as we were concerned, to be accom-
plished. During the following days I took some hundreds of
Wissmann's troops, with Wissmann himself, across to Dar-es-
Salam, and obtained from him permission to take away a
hundred muzzle-loaders and fifty breech-loaders from his
dep6ts, where they lay.
When I returned to Bagamoyo, a few days afterwards, I
DETERMINATION TO PROCEED. 31
received the very agreeable information that Brother Oskar, of
the French mission, had about sixty Central-African porters
ready for me. Besides the breech-loaders and the hundred
muzzle-loaders, the manager of the depot in Dar-es-
Salam had delivered to Herr Oskar Borchert seventeen of the
repeating weapons, for which Wissmann at Bagamoyo ^^p^*^''""^-
very kindly gave me three thousand ball cartridges. I de-
posited all these stores of weapons in the houses inhabited by
the Somalis at Bagamoyo, and on Sunday, May 26th, betook
myself back to Zanzibar to transport my tents and other
equipments from thence to Bagamoyo. I took seventy-three
Somalis across with me to Zanzibar, and dismissed them there.
Here, in the meanwhile, Herr Fritz Bley and Herr Borchert
had practically concluded the re-packing of the loads,
dimmishmg their numbers. From Herr Bley, how- of Herr
ever, I was obliged on the following morning to part, ^^'
as the state of his health urgently necessitated his return to
Europe, and it was obvious that for undertakings such as
we had in view only sound and vigorous constitutions were
available.
I remained in Zanzibar until Saturday, June 1st ; and this
week was important in two directions for the carrying out of
the Emin Pasha Expedition. On the one hand, we commenced
negotiations during this week with Herr Gasch, who stood in
communication with the southern places, and received ^^^^^^
advice from him, concerning the further procuring of ceedmg de-
. rr, ■ -r-> Ti /r 1 • ternuiiedon
porters, perhaps m Tungi Bay, or Mozambique, or
Delagoa Bay. Through these conferences there arose in
Zanzibar the settled conviction that I should, in the first place,
go with the Necera to Mozambique, to get porters from thence ;
and this conviction was remarkably useful to us during the
next week in the accomplishment of my real plan. For, though
I had not myself made any communications in reference to
it, this opinion was held, in a certain degree, by the com-
manding admirals in Zanzibar. On the other hand, during the
concluding week in May, I entered into personal communica-
tion with Admiral Fremantle, with the view of effecting, at
32 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
least, the delivering up of my hunting weapons ; and in this I
succeeded.
I myself went on board the British flagship, and had a
lengthy conference with Admiral Fremantle, which threw a
clear light on the situation of affairs. A few days previously,
the Deputy Commander in Zanzibar had announced to me, in
Conference the abseuce of Fremantle, that I had no right to put
Admiral ^^ith the Necera, although she did not in general fall
Fremantle. ^ndgr the blockade regulations, into any place that was
under blockade, especially Mompas, whither I had wished to go
to have a conference with Fremantle. I asked Fremantle what
were the reasons and motives of this peculiar order, and he
declared to me, in the plainest possible manner, that I was
inconvenient to the English in Eastern Africa, and might there-
fore not reckon upon enjoying, with their sanction, the same
right that any one else would have. Twice he openly gave me
to understand that, with respect to me, it was a state of war —
" C'est la guerre ! " If ihis did not suit me, I should send a
despatch to my Government in Berlin ; a despatch from Berlin
to London, and from London to him, would completely alter
the state of things. This he explained to me repeatedly. He
deplored all this condition of things, but must obey his instruc-
The Ad ^ions. Nevertheless, at the conclusion he promised me
mirai's not to come in my way outside the line of blockade,
declaration. , i-rv^ i ■ • i /. n -»-r
and to put no dimculties m the way or the Necera, in
case I wished to send her to Lamu, provided that neither I nor
contraband of war was on board.
" C'est la guerre ! " With these words Fremantle had also
indicated to me my position in the affair. If I found no legal
protection it behoved me, in carrying out the commission
entrusted to me, to try how much I could accomplish without
it. I considered it more consonant with our national honour
and our national interests to perish, on the sea or on the land,
Reference with my whole expedition, than to retreat before this
mittee IT" paltry mass of obstacles and intrigues. To do this
iiome. ^j^^j^ ^ gQQ^j conscience, it was certainly necessary that
I should have another expression of authority from the body
DEFINITE START FOR DAR-ES-8ALAM. 33
whose commission I held, the German Emin Pasha committee.
It happened fortunately that, on my arrival at Zanzibar, I had
found a telegram waiting for me, asking for information con-
cerning the state of the expedition and our condition as i-egarded
weapons. I telegraphed back that the arms had been replaced,
and that I hoped to be able to start in four weeks. Then, on
May 30th, I received the welcome reply : " All right ! Authority
forward ! Hofmann." I had now what I wanted, and *" a*va"oe-
was resolved to delay no longer, but to extricate myself at once
from this state of thraldom in the blockaded territory with the
means that were still at my disposal, however limited they
might be, and to seek in a freer field the scene of further
development of events. I was now determined to lead my
expedition northward round the line of the blockade, and to
seek more suitable points of support for the advance, in Witu
and on the Tana.
On June 1st, in company with Herr Oskar Borchert, and
with Herr Friedenthal, who had been engaged expressly for
packing the cases, I crossed over to Bagamoyo, having Departure
my hunting weapons and the other paraphernalia of ^°™ ^^f *'
the expedition on board. The whole of the following Dar-es-
day, and on June 3rd, I was shipping my arms and
ammunition in Bagamoyo, and on the 4th I caused Lieutenant-
Captain Rust to take into actual service the porters enlisted
through Brother Oskar. On June 5th I embarked all my
forces, and on the morning of the 7th we steamed out of the
harbour of Bagamoyo, bending our course towards Dar-es-
Salam. In Bagamoyo it was thought that I should lie for a
week at Dar-es-Salam, to procure additional porters, and then
betake myself to the south. I should indeed have been very
glad to get more porters at Dar-es-Salam, as I had procured
only fifty-three men in all at Bagamoyo. I feared, however,
that by longer tarrying in Dar-es-Salam I should risk every-
thing without a proper equivalent, and consequently contented
myself with hiring some fifteen more men there on June 8th ;
and already, on the morning of the 9th, a Sunday, I proceeded
onward from Dar-es-Salam.
3
34
.V/-:il' IJilllT ox UAUK AFIHrA.
Hen-en Teramiii, Maercker, Kilsel, ami liabe had helped lUf
with all their mii;hl, in the kindest manner. I took leave ot
them at eight (/cluck in the murning, on the (jna)' at Dar-es-
Salam, and shaped my conrse at hrst towards the sonth, to get
sai'ely clear of the entire blockade territory. The gnns of the
station sainted the departing ^^(^lVl■a, and we took leave of onr
countrymen on the coast with a return salvo IVom our rej)eating
rifles.
It was a nhirions moment when the outlines of the islands
'"1
,• .,._^;sX
The "Neosra" running out prom Dae-es-Salam.
of Dar-es-Salam faded away behind us. A stift' breeze came up
Hopes for from the north-west, and the sea was strongly agitated,
the future, jj^g future, indeed, lay before us shrouded in uncer-
tainty, even in darkness ; but the sentiment that moved us
three — Lieutenant-Captain Rust, Oskar Borchert, and myself—
at that instant, Avas certainly one of relief, of release from a
heavy pressure, the feeling of liberty, of movement. If we
made our way hito tlie free ocean, we could shape our plans as
we chose, and had not to apprehend being crushed unceremoni-
ously by measures of brute force. It was only on the preceding
THE PASSAGE TO KWAIHU BAY. 35
evening that I had disclosed my definite plans to the captain
of the Necera and to Lieutenant-Captain Rust. I was going
to hold a northward course outside of the islands of Zan-
zibar and Pemba, and endeavour to gain Kwaihu Bay, pianofpro-
that lies north of the blockade territory. Technically, needing,
this undertakmg was no easy one, for Kwaihu Bay is blocked
from the outside by reefs, and generally cannot be entered
without a pilot's help. We had naturally not been able to
procure a pilot in Zanzibar, for this would have frustrated
the whole plan.
But it was necessary that I should run this risk, if I did
not wish to give up the expedition as such. So we took the
responsibility on ourselves. After we had run for ten ^ devious
miles to the south-east, the course was altered towards "''""*•
the east, in which direction, by six o'clock in the evening, we
had steamed about fifty miles. Then we shifted our course to
north-north-east, and in the night ran past Zanzibar and Pemba,
steering directly for Lamu. Till four in the afternoon we
steamed on through a very rough sea, till about the latitude
of Lamu, and from thence we held on to the north-west, shap-
ing our course for Kwaihu. Zanzibar and the whole blockade
were far out of sight astern.
On the evening of the 10th our expedition was near coming
to a sudden end. I was sitting after supper on the quarter-
deck, over a cigar, with Lieutenant-Captain Rust and Alarm of
Oskar Borchert, when suddenly a bright glare of fire ^''^■
shone from the saloon, where all our powder and ammunition
were stored. The heavy rolling and pitching of the vessel had
overthrown the petroleum lamp, which exploded about three
feet from the first powder barrel. We rushed down at once
with the captain and engineer, caught up a number of woollen
blankets, which we threw upon the fire, making a kind of
package of the whole, and threw the flaming mass overboard.
Except a few burns on Rust's hand, there were no casualties
to record. I took this as a fortunate omen, and a complete
confidence in the further fortunes of the expedition filled my
heart.
36 ^!EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
On the morning of the 11th we awoke with the impression
that we were in the latitude of Kwaihu Bay. We skirted an
A stormy island which, according to the marine charts, corre-
passage. gponded to Kwaihu Bay. There was a heavy sea, the
wind whistled from the south-west, heavy rollers broke con-
tinually over our little boat, which threatened every moment
to capsize. The chests were thrown violently to and fro, and
my people groaned with sea-sickness and alarm. Till nearly
eleven o'clock we were sounding and tacking. Then I had the
gig lowered, to attempt a landing through the roaring breakers.
But the boat was nearly overturned, and we had to get it back
on board quickly, or we should have lost it. An imperfect
observation of the sun's altitude at noon indicated that we were
about 1° south latitude, conse'quently thirteen miles north of
the Hohenzollern harbour, or about sixty miles from Kw.aihu
Bay, and in sight of one of the Dundas Islands. So strongly
had the coast current carried us towards the north.
We steamed at full speed towards the south-west until seven
in the evening, making only seven (German) miles against
Harassing the monsoon ; and we had, beyond this, to reckon for
navigation. g^jljQ^^ three miles of leeway towards the north; so
that our actual progress on our course comprised only four
(German) miles. By seven in the evening we had made about
forty miles. From that time we went at half-speed, to avoid
getting into the English blockade, until four in the morning,
whenwe put on full speed again. After long soundings, etc.,
and observation of the sun's altitude at noon, we simply found
ourselves in about the same position as yesterday. So greatly
had we still under-estimated the set of the stream towards the
north.
Now matters became really serious, for a want of water
began to make itself felt. At Zanzibar I had ordered the
Scarcity of ^^P^^-in to take about a week's supply of water on
water on board, and he had done so : but he had only reckoned
board. j? i • i • ,
tor his own ship s company, and had not allowed for the
people I was to bring. In Dar-es-Salam I had endeavoured to
supply this want. It had, however, been impossible to get large
DOUBTS AND DIFFICULTIES.
37
quantities of water on board ; and thus, in the expectation of
being in Kwaihn Baj- in three daj's at the latest, I had steamed
awa)" with an insufficient store of water — undoubtedl}" a great
mistake in administration. The captain began to lose courage.
Then I made arrangements for catching the rain water, and
■■Is KwAiHU Peak in Sight.'"
away we went again, under press of steam, to the south-west,
against a heavy sea and roaring wind, like yesterday. Sleep
was not to be thought of, as we were all berthed on the after-
deck ; it was the more impossible, as heavy downpours of rain
wetted evervthing through. We steamed at full speed till lour hi
the morning ; then steered west by north towards the land and
38 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
sighted— one of the Dundas islands. The captain was much
depressed, and demanded to go back to Zanzibar. Accordingly
I issued a written instruction to him to cruise before
^tt the*' Kwaihu Bay, until he should receive a different order
captain. ^_^^^ ^^ j threatened, if he did not obey my direc-
tions, to hold his company answerable for the loss of £20,000.
That sufficed for the day. By dint of more extensive measures
I further succeeded, on this Thursday morning, in collecting
and storing in the tanks about 1,500 buckets of rain water.
At half-past twelve we had a gleam of sunshine, and the
captain took the sun's altitude for 2° south latitude, so that we
must be near our goal. At half-past one I drew Herr Borchert's
attention to the fact that I thought I descried Kwaihu Peak, the
landmark of Kwaihu Island. Immediately afterwards a very
heavy squall arose, with black rain clouds, so that everything
Banger of vanished, and we had hurriedly to steer away from the
shipwreck, j^nd, lest we should be thrown upon the reefs. At
four o'clock the captain came on the after-deck, and asked
me to step on the bridge and see if the island opposite was
not Lamu. I ithought it was, and Lieutenant-Captain Rust
was even more decidedly of the same opinion. We slowed
down ; then, as we imagined, passed Manda Island northward,
till we thought we saw the entrance to Manda Bay. Now we
seemed to know where we were. We were obliged to hold off
from the shore because the sun sank. Through the night we
cruised in sight of the island. The next morning we were to
go along Patta and to Kwaihu Bay. In such a mood as used to
be mine in my boyish days in anticipation of Christmas Eve,
I lay through the night sleepless on my swaying chair. Next
morning at dawn we went on. Yonder was Manda, yonder
Patta — now Sewy Point and Sewy Spit and Kwaihu Bay with
Botteler's Ledge must come. Sure enough there it
Doubts as ^ . „ p
to our posi- was. But the bay was obstructed by a barrier of reels
and by violent breakers. And what was yonder island
in the middle, that was not marked on the marine chart ; and
why did the soundings not correspond P At twelve o'clock the
solar observations showed us that we were in 1° 34' S. latitude,
THE PASSAGE ACC02IPLISHED. 39
consequently twenty-nine to thirty German miles northward of
Kwaihu Bay. The coast formations along the Benadirland are
so uniform, that such mistakes as happened to us must not be
too much wondered at. I believe we may have had Fairhead
before us on this mournfully fine Friday.
Off we went again, under full steam, towards the south ! In
the evening we were opposite the fancied Lamu, where we
had cruised the night before. Next morning onward to the
south-west ! And there it rose before us. The peculiar, unmis-
takable Kwaihu Peak was there at length, and finally Kwaihu
Bay itself ! It is impossible to picture the feeling of
•' fro Arrival at
deep satisfaction I experienced. It must be remem- Kwaihu
bered how much was at stake on this occasion. With ^^'
what derision we should have been received, and how kindly the
English blockade would have welcomed us if, as might easily
have happened, we had stumbled into it ! A slight accident to
our engines or our screw might have overthrown everything.
However, these were cures passatcB, and between ten and eleven
o'clock on Sunday, June 15th, we passed through the breakers
of Kwaihu Bay. At eleven the Necera anchored. Behind
us lay the breakers of Siyu Spit, and before us, though cer-
tainly at a distance of five miles, the continent of Africa.
What very seldom happens to me now, after these four days
of exhaustion and sleeplessness I felt someAvhat excited.
But there was no time for recreation. We had no boats, and
a fresh breeze was blowing into the bay, and more than a
hundred persons and about twenty thousand pounds of cargo
had to be landed. Consequently, at half-past eleven I stepped
into the gig with Lieutenant-Captain Rust, to proceed losiyufor
to Siyu and secure people for unloading and carrying, """^^t^-
As a precaution I took with me the jolly-boat with six of my
soldiers ; and it was only towards three o'clock that we reached
the village of Siyu, on the north side of Patta. We quickly
succeeded in establishing friendly relations. But I learned that
dhows were only to be had in Pasa from Buana Mse, with the
concurrence of the Arab governor. Quickly resolved, I sailed
on westward, with Rust, in the jolly-boat to Pasa. Herr
40 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Friedenthal, who had meanwhile arrived with the other jolly-
boat, was dkected by me to follow me slowly in this second
boat, with ten soldiers, and to lay to in front of Pasa.
Pasa is a town of between four and five thousand inhabit-
ants, with a fort and an Arab garrison. Hundreds of people
surrounded us when we were ceremoniously ushered into the
Governor's presence. At Pasa the sympathies were decidedly
English, as Mr. Mackenzie had shortly before been
Our for- * ' •'
tunes at strewiug gold around. The inhabitants took us for
Englishmen, as the Necera sailed under the English
flag. I saw no reason to undeceive them in this matter ; and
hajf-an-hour later I sailed back with two great dhows to the
Necera, which we reached towards seven o'clock. Buana Mse
had also secured for me a hundred and fifty porters, whom,
however, he did not afterwards produce.
That same night, with the sea running high, we succeeded
in getting all the contraband of war, powder, ammunition, etc.,
into one of the dhows, with twelve soldiers to guard it. The
second dhow we loaded next morning at daybreak ; and as at
this moment a third dhow ran up to the steamer, I was now
Embarka- ^^'® **^ embark all my people at once. On Sunday
tionofthe moming towards eight o'clock we made all clear for
leaving the Necera. Indeed, as is usually the case, it
appeared at the last moment that all the things had not been
got out of the boat ; but as the ebb was setting in fast, and 1
would no longer run the risk of exposing the whole business to
the chance of a coz<jj de main of the English, I made up my
mind to leave Herr Friedenthal behind, and to let the re-
mainder of the things follow us on that day or the succeeding
one. I should probably have done this far more zealously if
I had been aware of what was taking place meanwhile, just
south of Kwaihu Bay.
Fremantle, whose attention must have been attracted by
my departure and my sudden disappearance from the Zanzibar
waters, had meanwhile put himself in motion, with his flagship
and three other men-of-war, in the certain hope, as it appears
to me, that I should endeavour to run into Manda Bay, and
PROCEEDINGS WITH THE DHOWS. 41
that he should succeed in laying hold of me there. His flag-
ship lay ahout two German miles from me. He had neglected
to occupy Kwaihu Bay, because he looked upon the entrance
to it as closed up ; which I consider an unpardonable prooeed-
error on his part. That he did not, as was afterwards ^f^ai
affirmed in English quarters, consider Kwaihu Bay I'remantie.
as lying outside the region of his blockade and that I had a
right to land there, is shown by the fact that a few days later
he forbade the Necera to land her effects in Lamu or in the
adjoining bays and harbours, — a prohibition that undoubtedly
included Kwaihu Bay. Thus Fremantle was quietly lying in
Manda Bay, when at about ten o'clock I with my three sturdy
dhows parted company with the Necera. In the first jj^ ^^^^^^
of these I had embarked with Lieutenant-Captain Rust, i»i the
in the second was Herr Borchert, the third I had care-
lessly left without any white man on board, as it was to be
commanded by Herr Friedenthal, whom at the last moment I
had ordered back to the Necera. It was with a feeling of
exaltation that I saw the white line of breakers gradually dis-
appear behind us. Such may have been the emotions of the
much-enduring Ulysses, when Circe's island disappeared beneath
the ocean. 'v
At eleven o'clock a heavy shower of rain drew up, veiling
before as in twilight the islands of Kwaihu and Fazy,- and
also the continent. Thus we could not accurately control our
course, and were anything but pleasantly surprised when,
towards twelve o'clock, the dhow suddenly struck ^^^^^^^^^ ^^
heavily, and at the same time the sail came down, dhow navi-
without any command from us. The '' captam ot
the dhow informed us that the Arab governor had given orders
we were to come once more to Pasa before we betook ourselves
to the continent. As I afterwards ascertained, the gentlemen
had held councils during the night, and after learning who we
were had resolved to keep us at Pasa until the British Admiral
Fremantle sent to decide what should be done with us. To
acquiesce in this was certainly not now my intention. I could
not think of making the success of the whole undertaking
42 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
dependent on the humours of Arabs who were in the pay of
the English. I gave orders to hoist the sail again. After a
short resistance my people succeeded in carrying out the order,
at which the Patta people half voluntarily and perhaps half
under compulsion sprang overboard, and we were now com-
pletely masters of the boats. I requested Lieutenant-Captain
Energetic Rust to take the helm in my boat; the two other
measures, pursuing dhows that now arrived, and manoeuvred like
the first, had also to turn round, when Herr Borchert at my
call interposed energetically; and after I had succeeded in
putting some determined Somali soldiers into the third, by
means of swimming, we drew off hastily from the land, when
we saw masses of people coming along with loud cries, and
now with full sails we steered for the continent of Africa.
The rain, which had ceased for a time, now began to fall
again more heavily, and a grey mist hid the Siyu Canal, into
which we now ran. At half-past one o'clock we anchored before
a place that was designated to me as Kiwani. I wondered at
seeing no houses, but caused myself to be carried by
does not three men a long distance through the sea, to look
about me. There was the usual mangrove thicket.
A grey swell struck incessantly into the knotted tree roots
on which we stood. Lieutenant-Captain Rust, who had landed
with''six Somali soldiers, agreed with me either that this was
not Kiwani or that Kiwani was not the place for us. There-
fore back into the boats ! I now took my place in the third
boat, ordering Lieutenant-Captain Rust into the first one, so
that each boat was furnished with a commander.
Before us lay the Siyu Canal, which runs into Manda Bay.
On the left, in graceful lines, extends the island of Patta, which
The Si u ^ kuew Very well from having visited it a year and
Canal; a a half before. In the north the continent of Africa
new p an. ^^^^^ boldly aloug, curviug into a series of bays. A
soft rain was rippling down, and wrapped all things in a mys-
terious grey tint. This invited us to the execution of a plan
which had appeared tempting to me already at Zanzibar, but
which I had not ventured seriously to contemplate.
QUESTION OF LANDING THE COODH. 43
Whoever looks at the map will see that the Siyu Canal
nearly opposite the town of Patta, makes a wide cnrVe to the
north. We should have had to avoid the northern bend of this
3f[,i'<""
Landi^'g i>; Shimbye.
canal if we had landed opposite Kwaihu. With a lull comple-
ment of porters this would have taken us three days to do, hut
with our limited supply would require at least six or seven.
But this northern bay is already bounded on the west by the
44 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
sultanate of Witu. If we could enter it, unperceived, from
the Manda Baj-, the problem of evading the blockade
ade to be would be successfuUy solved this very day. I made
evaded. ^^ ^^^ mind to make use of the opportunity afforded
me, by the secure possession of three dhows, to carry this plan
into execution. Forward, therefore, with a good wind, to the
west ! The two front dhows lowered their sails to obey this
new order of proceeding ; and then we rushed along, at about
the same latitude. Opposite Siyu we inclined to the north,
and at four in the afternoon, drenched to the skin, we cast
anchor at Mbaja. I had the little dhow unloaded at once, as
I wished to send it back immediately to the ship with Herr
Borchert ; meanwhile we established ourselves comfortably at
Mbaja.
I had intended to cross that very night to Shimbye in the
sultanate of Witu ; but the complete state of exhaustion of
captains and crews alike compelled me somewhat to
*"'°" delay these proceedings. We supped on a little cold
meat, put a sufficient iiumber of soldiers into the dhows, and
at half-past seven o'clock all went to sleep ; but our rest was
uncomfortably disturbed by the continual leaking of the rain
through the roof of the negro hut.
At four o'clock in the morning Herr Borchert, with four
soldiers to guard the possession of the dhow, returned to
Kwaihu Bay. At half-past five Lieutenant-Captain Rust and
I had all the things stowed in the third dhow, and all the
Passage to people placed in the two others, which floated deep in
Shimbye. ^jjg ^^ter and were crowded ; and at sunrise we again
put to sea. iEolus was gracious to us ; the sun shone
pleasantly, and already at half-past seven we were able to cast
anchor at Shimbye. The place itself lies some twelve minutes
from the anchoring-ground. I went at once into the village ;
found that it was admirably suited to our purpose ; secured
the hire of a few houses from the elder ; and went back to the
strand to superintend the landing of our effects. This business
was continued till about twelve o'clock, and furnished a very
lively and, for us, an exceedingly satisfactory spectacle. When
A PROSPEROUS CONCLUSION.
45
everything had been landed, 1 went back into the village to
take in hand the stowing of the baggage, while Lieutenant-
Captain Rust remained on the shore. The porters safe arri-
ran to and fro ; and by two o'clock in the afternoon g^itanate
of June 17th everything was snugly housed at Shim- of'Witu.
bye, in the sultanate of Witu, under the flag of Fumo Bakari
that waved above us.
•■#■
CHAPTER III.
THE SULTANATE OF WITU.
" But wildly did tliey fare, —
I fear 'twill rend ; —
God makes not the account
At each week's end.'
Goethe.
THE impediment of brute force offered
by the blockade had thus been
o\ ercome ; and the task of conquering
this difficult}' had not been a very difficult
if^*/''y out- A little cool calculation and, above
* ' , ^ - " all, complete discretion had been sufficient to
A ^ ' stultil} the prophecies of friends and foes in
■ \ Success of Zanzibar. There the C4erman Emin Pasha
•■'•' mand°ert Ex])edition had already been looked upon
plan. as a lamentable failure, and there had been
rejoicing over the i'act. But the English had been too con-
fident of success, Miiich in general appears to me to be a
national fault ^Yith them, and one that may some day cost
THE EXPEDITION AT SHIM BYE. 47
them dear ; and so the Ne(£ra, in spite of four English
ships of war, had happily run into the northernmost ba.y
of the system of the Lamu harbours. The consciousness
of having prevented this ignominious stifling of the conflicting
expedition at Zanzibar was naturally calculated to call feelings,
forth in us a certain feeling of triumph. But, on the other
hand, the position in which we were now placed was scarcely of
a kind to keep alive in me feelings of satisfaction.
I had landed, all in all, at Shimbye, some sixty porters and
twenty- seven soldiers. With these, on June 17th, I had in
the first place to confront the task of getting more than two
hundred and fifty loads of ammunition and other stores to Witu,
in the face of the British fleet. That in the event of further
violence on the part of the English I was entirely desti-
tute of rights, I understood perfectly well. Moreover, hostile in-
so long as I remained on the coast I was not safe for a
moment in my own camp from the danger of a visit of English
marines. Though I had been obliged to make use of stratagem
against the English ships of war, I was certainly resolved to
employ the means far more sympathetic to me, the ris vim
vi expellit, in opposing any such violence by land. But the
position of the German Emin Pasha Expedition was hardly
improved by this resolution.
At Shimbye I was obliged to wait for a few days to give
the whole column a little rest. The people were greatly ex-
hausted by the hardships of the sea passage. It was also
requisite thoroughly to clean the arms, which had suffered
greatly from the sea water, to mount the gun, and Doings at
to take the tent-loads to pieces. In addition I had to shimbye.
wait for news from Herr Borchert, and the dhow, with the
remainder of our things from the Necera. With regard to
these things I had directed that everything which falls under
the designation of " merchandise " should, according to the
permission given me by Fremantle, go to Lamu, from whence
I could have it delivered to me on the continent by means
of nine camels I had formerly bought at Aden, and that were
now stationed at Lamu; that, on the contrary, everything
48 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
which fell under the designation of " contraband of war " and,
consequeutl}^ under the regulations of the blockade, should
be brought to me by dhow to Shimbye, which lies to the
Measures north of the blockade line. On June 18th, Herr
ing'thr' Friedenthal arrived at Shimbye with this portion of
stores, etc. ^jjg things. Herr Borchert sent me word that he had
considered it better for his part to go to Lamu with the goods
intended for barter than personally to superintend the loading
of the camels. Already before the arrival of Herr Friedenthal
from Shimbye, on June 18th, I had put myself in communica-
tion with Herr von Tiedemann and Herren Toeppen and Gustav
Eeport to Deuhardt in Lamu. On that day I wrote a report to
Germany. Germany, which, with regard to Jackson's expedition,
concluded with these words : " We will just see if the English,
with all the start they made, have overtaken us." My whole
attention during the next few days was directed to procuring
additional porterage power. For this purpose I betook myself
on June 19th to Wanga, with a few people. Close by the shore
there I found a house which had quite a European character.
I entered, and found in it Herr Schonert, an official of Herr
Visit to Denhardt. He received me kindly, and at once pointed
"Wanga. q^^ ^q me, in the bay before his windows, a ship well
known to me, the Boadicea of Admiral Fremantle, which
had arrived shortly before. At one o'clock in the day Herr
Schonert accompanied me back to Shimbye, and here I had the
agreeable surprise of seeing Herr von Tiedemann, who, on
receiving the news of our landing, had at once betaken him-
self with Toeppen, Denhardt, and Gerstaecker on board a dhow,
to seek us in the environs of Kwaihu Bay. It was somewhat
late before they discovered us at Shimbye. Already before ray
Exaggerat- letters arrived at Lamu rumour had carried thither
ed reports. ^]^g announcement of our landing. But with what
exaggeration ! A thousand Germans were reported to" have
landed in Kwaihu Bay, and there was great excitement among
the white and black population. To my sorrow I soon con-
vinced myself that my hope of procuring porters through Herr
Toeppen had little chance of being realised. But I arranged
A VERY DIFFICULT POSITION. 49
with him that he should undertake the fitting out of my ex-
pedition, with suitable articles of barter, for the Tana route.
I had caused ninety-six loads of articles of barter to be brought
together from Zanzibar in view of a Tanga-Massai Articles of
route. I was at that time still possessed with the ''*'^*"' ®**-
traditional views of African travel, that it was necessary to
provide, with the most anxious care, a selection of articles of
barter for each separate route, suited to the tastes of the
inhabitants of the districts through which a man would pass,
if he wanted to travel at all in Africa.
Accordingly I arranged with Herr Toeppen that he should
take over the articles of barter I had brought with me, and
conveyed to Lamu. The part that could be used he was to
include in the collection to be made by him ; the rest uew ar-
he was to sell on the best terms he could get ; and rangements.
then, from his own camp, and from other wares that were to
be procured at Zanzibar, he should put together the articles I
should require on my route.
On this afternoon I also learned for the first time that
four English men-of-war were cruising in these waters without
any ostensible reason. But to me the reason was ostensible
enough ; and in consequence of this news I determined ^ hurried
to start with my expedition at once towards the departure,
south-west, to get away in the first instance from the vicinity
of the sea. Therefore on the same evening, at half-past five, I
sent my ammunition by the land road to Wanga, and in the
night, between eleven and twelve, I despatched a dhow laden
with provisions under Herr Friedenthal to Mgine. June 20th
and 21st afforded us the diverting sight of our dhows, with
the stores for the expedition, moving, in view of Admiral
Fremantle and the Boadicea, from Shimbye towards xte " Boa-
Mgine, at which place they all arrived in good con- "*"**•"
dition. The gentlemen perhaps took us for quite ordinary
slave dhows, which were not worth chasing, — especially as by
so doing the interests of their new friends of Patta or Manda
might be compromised. Certainly, the Boadicea was lying here
pursuant to the orders of the blockade, quite irrespective of
50 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
US, to watch the dhow traffic with respect to contrahand of war,
ammunition, and slaves ; and the excuse that they could not be
aware that dhows were transported by sea to Mgine would
accordingly not have been valid. It was indeed a system of
surveillance calculated to inspire respect !
On the morning of June 20th I myself went, in company
with Herren Toeppen, Denhardt, and von Tiedemann, with a
number of loads to "Wanga. On this day the Boadicea fired
many salutes, and had run up the Wali flag; a proof that Walls
were on board, my friend Buana Mse being probably among
them. In every case the fact of our landing must now
13'6CGSSltT
for quick be Undoubtedly known to the English. In spite of this,
judging from the proofs I had already had of their
vigilance, I resolved, as I wished to get matters concluded
quickly at Shimbye, to work that day with dhows also on the
sea. We got together three such dhows, two of which I sent
to Shimbye with new instructions for Lieutenant-Captain Rust,
keeping one for myself.
Besides this, behind the bushes which hid them from the
view of the English man-of-war, my people were all day long
carrying loads of ammunition for me from Shimbye to Wanga.
Rust put the remainder of the things in the two dhows sent to
him ; and on June 21st, by ten o'clock at night, the whole
The landing expedition had been transported to Mgine, from
atMgine. -^vhence the much frequented land road leads to Witu.
Already on this day, at nine in the morning, Herr Friedenthal
arrived with his dhow, then Herr Gerstaecker on one of the
two Shimbye dhows. The ammunition I did not send from
Wanga quite to Mgine, but landed it opposite Wanga on the
further side of a creek, under the supervision of Herren
Toeppen and Tiedemann, to have it carried from thence by the
land road to Mgine. This overland transport I superintended
myself, M'ith Herr Denhardt. I arrived M'ith about fifty loads
at Mgine, at half-past six o'clock, and at once sent the people
back to bring up the remainder, which Herr Tiedemann was
guarding, the same night. At ten o'clock, as we all sat in very
cheerful mood at supper in Mgine, to my great satisfaction
ASSEMBLING OF THE EXPEDITION. 51
the last dhow arrived, under Lieutenant-Captain Rust ; and at
daybreak next morning I had everything deposited in safety
on shore, and immediately sent sixty loads of ammunition
further inland to Hindi, which was about nine miles distant.
I had selected Hindi as the spot where I would gather
together all the means and powers I possessed, and organise my
expedition. The place was situated some miles from
the sea, immediately behind Lamu, in the midst of a vous at
richly cultivated region, and appeared therefore to ^'''^"
fulfil all the conditions for my work of organisation. I betook
myself thither on the 23rd in company with Herren Denhardt
and von Tiedemann, while Lieutenant-Captain Rust once more
remained behind to superintend the reserves. Through the
whole of the 23rd, 24th, and 25th we worked to get all the loads
housed at Lamu ; in which business my camels, drawn from
Lamu on the morning of June 24th, proved themselves very
useful.
On June 25th, 1889, the whole expedition was assembled
at Hindi. I had the tents set up in the middle of the place,
my guns loaded, and the houses around occupied. On the
road towards Lamu, from which direction further forcible
proceedings on the part of the English were perhaps to be
expected, I had a guard maintained, day and night, to get
timely notice of any such movement. The gentlemen, however,
did not favour us with a visit. These last measures of mine
might appear exaggerated, if it were not taken into con-
sideration what feelings must have been awakened in us by
the events that had taken place, in the interval, at Lamu.
At that place Herr Borchert had arrived on June 20th
with the Necera, which had meanwhile suffered damage by sea.
On the way it had almost appeared as if the Necera must go
to pieces. They had been obliged to cast out the The
sheet anchor ; and the captain advised Borchert to be brought to
prepared for the worst. Nevertheless on June 20th, on '"">''•
the day when from Herr Borchert's window I was, with peculiar
interest, watching through a telescope the proceedings on board
the English flagship Boadicea, the Necera reached the harbour
.32 .V^ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
of Lamu. As she ran in she was met by a pinnace from the
English ship of war Mariner-, whose officer called up from the
boat, " Where is Dr. Peters ? " The question was asked in a
tone as if the officer were enquiring, not whether I was at
Zanzibar or in the interior, but in the cabin or on the quarter-
deck. The more startling, accordingly, was Herr Borchert's
answer, "Dr. Peters .P Dr. Peters is gone into the interior, to
Emin Pasha." Next morning Fremantle himself appeared, and
summoned the captain of the Necera. To our general regret we
heard at Hindi that Admiral Fremantle had been very angry
indeed in the presence of the captain. We were told he gave
manifest signs of considerable disturbance of spirit. For five
days, he exclaimed, he had been cruising in these miserable
waters with three men-of-war, the Boadicea, the Mariner, and
the Cossack, for the sole purpose of intercepting us — for five
days, five days! And now, after all ! — Poor Admiral Fremantle!
We all pitied him sincerely. But from his anger — which
appeared to me personally somewhat inexplicable, inasmuch
as he had given permission for the Necera to land at Lamu
provided neither I nor ammunition were on board — there
were evolved in him manly resolutions, which promised him
satisfaction.
The two following letters should be read by those who
would form an opinion of what occurred at Lamu subsequently
to June 20th. They were written in English, and I herewith
give them : —
" Bagamoyo, June dth, 1889.
" Your ExcELLENcr,— I have the honour kindly to inform
Your Excellency that I shall most likely have to send the
Necera to Lamu.
" According to the promise kindly given by Your Excel-
lency to me, that you will raise no objections to my doing so in
case there are neither arms and war ammunitions nor my own
person on board, I kindly beg from Your Excellency to instruct
the commander of H.M.S. at Lamu of my intention.
" I probably shall send to Lamu either Herr Borchert or
CORRESPONDENCE WITH ADMIRAL FREMANTLE. 53
Herr Friedenthal or both, and this will be about from June
25th to 30th. With the expression of my sincere respect,
" I remain Your Excellency's most obedient Servant,
" (Signed) Carl Peters."
" BoADiCEA " AT Zanzibab, June 11th, 1889.
" Sir, — I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your
letter of the 9th instant, informing me of your intention to send
the Necera to Lamu, but that in accordance with what I men-
tioned in our recent interview you would not go yourself, and
no arms or ammunition would be on board the ship.
" Under the above circumstances I shall not object to the
Neoera going to Lamu, and I will give instructions to our
blockading ship accordingly ; but her proceedings there will be
watched, and I shall direct that she is ordered to quit the port
if anything whatever is being done or suspected which would at
all be liable to create disturbance or injure the British Imperial
East Africa Company.
" It would tend to remove suspicion if you were to make a
candid statement of the object for which the Necera is required
to go to Lamu.
" I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient Servant,
" Feemantle, Vice-Admiral.
" To De. Gael Petees, Bagamoyo."
This letter of Admiral Fremantle I did not receive until
afterwards at Witu, and was consequently unable to send an
earlier reply. To further elucidate the position I also append
the following letter : —
" Lamu, June ilst, 1889.
"To OSKAR BOECHEET, EsQ.,
" Member of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, Lamu.
" Sir,— I have the honour to inform you that I have received
order from Arbuthnot, Commander of H.M.S. Mariner, to pre-
vent the ss. Necera from landing the cargo consigned to the
German Emin Pasha Expedition in Lamu.
"I further have to state that I have examined every
o4 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
package, and hereby certify that I have found neither arms
nor ammunition nor powder amongst them.
" I have the honour to be, Sir,
" (Signed) D. E. Egberts, Seaman H.M.S. ' Mariner .'"
When, on June 23rd, I arrived at Hindi, Herr Oskar
Borchert had come over in person from Lamu, to report to me
on the contents of this letter. The matter no longer formally
concerned me, as already in Kwaihu Bay I had transferred to
Herr Borchert the right of directing the movements of the
Neoera, and had left the articles of barter which were on board
the steamer, as already stated, at the disposal of Herr Oust
Toeppen, at Shimbye. Nevertheless I was naturally materially
a£fected by these occurrences, inasmuch as I was anxious, from
financial considerations, to get a fresh charter for the Neoera as
soon as possible, and, on the other hand, Herr Toeppen was
going to furnish my new equipment for the expedition partly
from the articles of barter I had surrendered to him. Conse-
quently I gave Herr Borchert new instructions for his conduct
in the affair, and hoped, looking at the concluding sentence of
Roberts's letter, that it would be quickly settled. Accordingly,
who shall describe my astonishment when on June 24th Herr
Borchert sent me a copy of the following letter :—
" H.M.S. ' Mariner,' at Lamu,
June 22nd, 1889.
"To OsKAE Borchert, Esq.,
" Member of the German Emin Pasha Expedition.
"Sir, — Acting under orders from the naval Commander-
in-Chief in these waters, and in consideration of the existing
blockade of this part of the coast of Africa, I have to inform
you that the stores at present on board your ship for Dr. Carl
Peters cannot be landed at this place, or at any other part
within or adjacent to that part of the coast which is at present
under blockade. Those stores now in a lighter alongside your
ship must be taken on board again, and you are to quit the port
as soon as this is accomplished. I shall send an officer and an
armed party on board to support you in carrying out this order.
THE ARTICLES OF BARTER. 55
The officer will accompany you to Zanzibar, in order to!seethat
the stores are not landed at any other port on this part of the
coast. His passage to that place will be taken and paid for.
" (Signed) Charles E. Arbuthnot,
" Commander."
This order was apparently the means adopted by Admiral
Fremantle of airing his displeasure at the landing in Kwaihu
Bay. I may emphasise only one point — that in the matter of
the confiscated goods there was no question of the equipment
for my expedition, but simply of merchandise, from which Herr
Toeppen was going to select articles of barter for its use, and
which I might in any case hope, at least in part, to find procur-
able in the stores at Lamu itself. Thus the proceeding „ . ^
r o Borchert
of Admiral Fremantle was evidently not so much in- and the
tended for a blow at the German Emin Pasha Expedition
as for a means of expressing his anger at what he had not been
able to prevent. Enough to say, twenty-five English marines
were sent on board the Neoera, the steamer's engine was de-
molished, and the vessel itself towed to Zanzibar. As afterwards
became manifest, the course of the expedition was considerably
altered in consequence of this measure. After a few weeks it
was found that the articles of barter required for the Massai
country were not to be had at Lamu, and in the course of the
following months it became manifest that I should never be
put in possession of the new articles procured from Zanzibar,
which Lieutenant-Captain Rust was to bring after me. The
English succeeded in bringing it about that the German Emin
Pasha Expedition acquired a character that differed in every
way from that of usual African travels. But they were not
able to thwart the undertaking, or even essentially to weaken its
action ; and in looking back upon these events during the course
of the expedition, the biblical text frequently came into my mind:
" Ye thought evil against me, but God meant it unto good."
Practically these proceedings of Fremantle's had the effect
of entirely removing from the sphere of my action, for the whole
further course of the expedition, Herr Oskar Borchert, whom
I had intended to take part in it in closest contiguity to myself.
56 A'filF LIGHT ON J)ARK AFRICA.
He was obliged to go to Zanzibar, because I was determined to
defend myself with the utmost seriousness against this clums)'
jj^^ infringement of rights on the part of the English.
"Necera" There he prosecuted with effect the so-called Neoera
lawsuit, which, so far as I have ascertained, awakened
general interest throughout the whole of Europe, and of which
I give a few particulars in the Appendix. Not until the con-
clusion of the suit was Herr Borchert able to lead the second
column of the expedition up the Tana.
To this first blow which fell upon me at Hindi was soon
added a second, in the painful consciousness that it would not
be possible for me to increase my force of porters in the Witu
Difficulty of territory, in such a manner as to let me hope that I
procaring should be able to carry up the Tana, in one column,
porters. ./ j. ^ j
even the loads that I had remaining. The Suaheli of
Witu and Lamu has not the enterprising spirit possessed by the
Wangwana on the German East African coast. There is no
idea of any intercourse, by means of caravans, with the interior,
and thus it was only one by one that candidates appeared to
take part in my expedition ; and those who came were not just
the best of their tribes. All kinds of disreputable rabble ap-
peared, with the intention of getting -porter's pay for one or two
months in advance, and then running away. I could, more-
over, scarcely meet such fraudulent proceedings effectually in
those regions, because the only possible measure against them,
namely, that of putting suspected characters in chains, and
punishing such deserters as were captured with the most rigor-
ous severity, could not, from political considerations, be here
put into practice. The highest number of porters I ever
nominally had under my authority amounted to about ninety;
but in reality we probably never possessed more than seventy
porters. I was, therefore, the more anxious to strengthen my
camel column, and to supplement the deficient carrying power
by the purchase of asses. I succeeded in bringing my column
of camels up to seventeen head, and in purchasing nine donkeys.
Thus it was clear that I might not hope to convey all my loads
at one time up the Tana. I was obliged to divide the expedition
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE MARCH. 57
into two columns, the second of which I placed under the
command of Lieutenant-Captain D. Rust. He was to organise
a boat expedition on. the Tana, and to join me again . . .
in Oda-Boru-Ruva, with the loads left behind, and the expedi-
especially the articles of barter expected from Zanzibar. *^'"*'
As it was not possible to strengthen myself with new porters
among the Suahelis, I now put my hope in the Wapakomo or
Gallas on the Upper Tana, where this attempt might perhaps
succeed, and where, in any case, I should be in a position, in
case the articles of barter from Zanzibar reached me, to equip a
caravan of asses, and with these to get to the Equatorial Province.
These were the hopes that animated me in Hindi and Witu, and
in accordance with which I made my resolutions. How small a
portion of them was destined to be fulfilled in the end !
On the other hand, a thing completely accomplished in Hindi
was the ordering of the burdens. The portion of the water
that had been spoilt was reiected ; the rest was accu-
. . Porterage
rately booked, and divided betweeu the two columns, arrange-
From LamuHerr Toeppen sent in all about thirty loads ™*" °'
of powder, biscuit, lucifer matches, and woven stuffs, all very
useful things, only that none of them were of any value for the
route I had selected through the Massai lands, as here nothing
will pass current but iron, and copper wire, and beads. On the
whole I estimated the loads my column was to carry up at about
a hundred and fifty, and left behind with Lieutenant-Captain
Rust the same number, to be brought up after me. Herr von
Tiedemann was to go up in my company.
Besides these obvious labours, I especially occupied myself
at Hindi in disciplining and organising my originally very
disorderly column. As I was compelled to begin the ^.^^. ^_
march into the interior without any real articles of ing the
barter, I could not pay my way, as Thomson and other "'""P^'^y-
people were accustomed to do, by giving tribute to the native
chiefs ; therefore the discipline of my people, and the control I
could exercise over them, became of the very greatest conse-
quence for the success of the undertaking. If I could not
carry out the German Emin Pasha Expedition in the usual
58 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
peaceable fashion, as I had originally hoped to do, I must face
the fact that I might ultimately be compelled to organise our
column as a warlike band. Now it is a well-known physical
law, that the effect of a power may be increased quite equally
in one of two ways — either by the augmentation of the mass,
or by the increase of velocity. To increase the mass of my
troops, looked upon as a warlike force, was not in my hand ;
the possibility of increasing their quickness or availableness
depended solely upon the carrying out of an unwavering dis-
cipline. To attain this, I had to turn my attention principally
to the Somalis of the column, by means of whom, if I got them
well in hand, I could carry out a thorough physical authority
over the porterage element, which was made up chiefly of
Thena- Central Africans. Such African masses of men can
thlirm^n- ^^^J ^^ ^^P^ i^ control by a determination uncom-
ners. promisingly to carry out one's own will in the teeth of
all opposition. I, too, have found this the only thing that makes
an impression upon one's own people. The so-called Bwana
Wasari (good masters) will not, under critical circumstances,
possess the authority which is necessary to carry an expedition
safely through the vicissitudes and dangers of the elements and
ol warfare. The impression I should recommend leaders of
expeditions to aim at producing must be the verdict of the
people : "Kali sana laikini hodari sana " (Very strict but very
thorough). By this feeling in separate things there is woven
in time around the leader and his followers an almost demo-
niacal bond, which is sufficiently strong to withstand the crises
and catastrophes in a life of African travel. The Somalis possess
Character gi'eat Sensibility, and if they are properly managed, and
mails* ^''" *^^^^ prejudices are respected, they are easy to lead.
Of course, with them also, one must not think to manage
matters entirely on the lines of the " point of honour." In the
course of the expedition I had even for my Somalis to introduce
corporal punishment, and to inflict it rigorously.
The development of all this, which naturally could only evolve
itself during the Course of the expedition, was already begun
during the week we spent at Hindi. It was a wonderful time
EXPERIENCE THE BEST TEACHER. 59
of cares, labours, plans, and hopes. The tardy rainy season
poured whole waterspouts down upon us every day ; and it was
seldom that the sun shone upon us, as we laboured The rainy
at the burdens. In these days I had caused a saddle- '^='''"'-
horse to be bought for me in Lamu, and repeatedly rode out on
excursions in the environs of Hindi. I rode for hours along
the way to Lamu, until I saw before me the peculiar dune of
that place. I knew that if I went into Lamu I should run the
risk of personal arrest. I had the feeling that banished men
may experience, of being cut off from Europe and my home.
For me there was only one thing :
" To westward, oh, to westward yet,
My gallant bark, speed on ; —
Dying, my heart's last wish shall greet
The land I would have won." *
There was no thought of turning back. Whether the goal
of our desires could be reached appeared at Hindi more than
improbable. But then there was only one fate for us all —
destruction ! Thus a peculiarly mournful and emotional tone
characterised these our first days on the continent of Africa.
There was only one consolation, that of bowing the soul entirely
under the mysterious dispensations of Providence.
On Wednesday, July 3rd, I at length set out from Hindi,
having the day before received my articles of barter from
Lamu. I wished first to lead my column as far as „,
•' The start
Witu, and there to wait for the second column under from
Rust, and the first march was to be only seven miles,
as far as the place called Kibokoni. First, I had the camels
loaded ; then the asses received their burdens. How clumsily
the whole work was still managed is shown by the fact that it was
ten o'clock before we had completed this business. At a later
period of the expedition, the loading of the camels and asses
was always finished by six o'clock in the morning. Everything
has to be learnt, especially the leading of an African expedi-
tion. That I had still something to learn in this respect was
* From " Columbus," a poem by Luisa Brachmann.- — Tr.
60
NEW LltiflT OX DARK AFRICA.
mauii'estcd b_y mj'self, in the fact that after the beasts of burden
had been loaded, I marched oft' with them instead of waiting,
as I ought to have done, to be the very last to quit the camp,
especially on that day; and that I left to Lieutenant-Captain
Rust and Herren von Tiedemann and Friedenthal the task of
loading and superintending the porters. But I altered this as
early as the following day.
As my horse had been somewhat chafed by the saddle, I
JjOADINU THE (JAMELS.
marched on foot out of camp, at a (quarter past ten, on July Srd,
High and I may declare that I sallied forth in the best of
hopes. spirits. The landscape before me was richly planted
with wheat and mtama. The sun lit up held and woodland, and
now ] was at last, as it appeared, beginning in earnest the great
journey towards the west. It appeared that I was about to
frustrate definitely the calculations that had sought to nullity
my expedition at Zanzibar ; and this tilled me, during the whole
march, with a sort of joyous satisfaction.
This feeling-, however, was much diminished when 1 came
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PORTERS. 61
to think over the result of this first day's march. Some of the
asses broke down under badly-packed loads ; but the greatest
failure was in the discipline of the porters. I had arrived at
Kibokoni at half-past twelve o'clock with the camels and a
small proportion of the porters, had immediately caused my
tent to be set up, ordered fires for cooking, and then waited for
Herr von Tiedemann and the rest of the caravan. Not a man
appeared. As corn for cattle and men was not to be had at
Kibokoni, I had sent at once to Hidio, distant about two miles,
to purchase grain. Towards half-past two Herr Friedrich, the
owner of the plantation there, appeared at my tent,
with the intelligence that he could supply us with ^me'''^''
corn. I at once sent two camels to fetch it. Six ^*"''^''''
o'clock came, and then at length Herr von Tiedemann arrived,
and reported that a portion of the carriers had disappeared,
or, in fact, had run away, manifestly because they objected
to carrying loads. Thus twenty loads had remained behind
at Hindi ; the other portion was on the way under Friedenthal.
I at once ordered two camels back to Hindi, and determined to
investigate the affair thoroughly next day. 'Herr von Tiedemann
had to return to Hindi next morning, and at noon brought the
last loads, with the news that there were no more porters at
Hindi. They must, therefore, have arrived at Kibokoni.
I now counted our loads over, with the list in my hand,
and ascertained afterwards that the porters were all actually
present. I then arranged the loads in three heaps, for camels,
donkeys, and porters respectively, and thought myself sure of
my affair when, at two o'clock, I gave the signal for Missing
marching onward to Mansamarabu. But again thirty ^°''^^-
porters' loads were left behind. The experiences of the previous
day had determined me for the present to take my position at
the rear of the column, and I accordingly sent Friedenthal
forward with the first loads and a few soldiers. The way from
Kibokoni to Mansamarabu leads through a creek which is not
passable for beasts of burden. The way for these leads round
the creek, and takes two hours, while on the direct road only
an hour to an hour and a half is required. After starting the
62 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
porters I intended to march with the beasts of burden round
the creek. At three o'clock I had the camels put in motion,
and the neighbourhood was scoured for my porters. As a few
Deserting Continued to come in, I suspected the missing ones to
porters. ]jjg gj.j|2 g^^ Kibokoui, and accordingly left Tiedemann
behind with orders to bring the rest of the column by the
direct road to Mansamarabu, while I myself started with the
asses at four o'clock. Two miles short of the place some laden
asses broke down, and I had to return to Kibokoni. All this
was very discouraging. At five o'clock I was back in the aban-
doned camp. I immediately sent letters to the Rust column
at Hindi, and to Friedenthal at Mansamarabu, with orders to
verify the number of porters, and to send all that were present
to me. I then had my tent set up again, and passed a few
very uncomfortable hours, waiting with Herr von Tiedemann
for news. At eleven o'clock eighteen porters came from
Mansamarabu, whom I sent back loaded the same night, under
Herr von Tiedemann.
Friday, July 5th, broke dark and heavy with rain. Early
in the morning came thirty to forty porters, who carried the
rest of the things quickly away. Thus I was able to send off
the donkeys that morning with quarter-loads, and at half-past
New seven I mounted my horse and rode rapidly along
recruits, ^j^g longer road round the creek to Mansamarabu.
There I arrived at ten o'clock, completely wet through ; found
the gentlemen and all the loads waiting ; and immediately held
a general muster of the people.
The result showed that all the porters were present. It was
therefore manifest that on the previous day, also, a number of
men must have slunk away without loads. I made the porters
a speech, in which I told them that I knew the good people, and
also the bad ones ; that I was a good master to the good ones,
Bewards ^^* ^^^^"^ *° ^^^ ^^^ ones. I gave double pocho to
and punish-the men who had carried loads the previous night, and
ments. n i • • n • n • o '
succeeded m identitymg a porter who, on July 3rd, had
thrown down his load in a maize field and run back to Hindi.
I had him laid in chains and flogged before all the people. In
-,,'yH , ^
ARRANGEMENTS FOR CAMPING. 63
the same waj' a few other persons were punished, concerning
whom I could prove that they had carried no loads on the
previous day. I now announced to the porters a scale of
punishments, to be inflicted for running away, and for the
throwing down of loads. This communication, which was
made intelligible on the spot by a few examples, produced a
decided impression. I concluded this memorable display by
the distribution of a slaughtered ox and the meting out of a
measure of maize to each man.
At five o'clock in the evening I assembled the people again.
Not a man was missing. I made another short speech, in which
I communicated the following command : " Each morning at
half-past five o'clock, at the sound of the trumpet,
every man has to appear, ihen to each will be given muBtering,
his load, once for all. At a quarter before six the * ""
caravan is to take the road in due order of march. On arriving
in camp every load is to be given up, when it is to be verified
by the list if a man or a load is missing. Each load is num-
bered, and each porter has his load, which is noted in the list
for the day."
I have chronicled these arrangements in detail because, after
their introduction on July 5th, essential order reigned in the
caravan. The success of the expedition depended in a great
measure upon the maintenance of this order. Some amount of
time was still requisite before my expedition had so accustomed
itself to this order as to march, to a certain extent, by itself.
Our camp at Mansamarabu presented an exceedingly
picturesque appearance. Our three tents had been set up in a
glorious park, under splendid mango trees and baobabs. Before
my tent, which stood in the centre, the German flag ^^^ ^^
waved on the right, and, so long as we were in the Mansa-
sultanate of Witu, the flag of Sultan Tumo Bakari on
the left — white and red, with a white pentagram in a red field.
Under the German flag the artillery was placed, guarded night
and day by a sentinel. Behind the tents, on the greens^yard,
camels, donkeys, and my Arabian horse grazed. Before them
the loads were piled up, likewise guarded by regular posts
64 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
of Somali soldiers. Behind these are the houses in which the
porters are lodged, in many cases with their trim young wives,
— strong, robust figures, contrasting advantageously with the
Suahelis of Witu. The rain of the morning had passed over,
and we were sincerely sorry that there was no painter present
to perpetuate the sunny scene by a sketch.
During that day Herr Friedrich from Hidio was with us
again, and very obligingly related for our benefit his experiences
of the country and people. On the following morning I was
Order of obliged to leave Herr von Tiedemann behind, as it
maroii. appeared that we had taken eight loads too many of
guns with ammunition from Rust's camp at Hindi, and had no
porters to carry them. But I had the great satisfaction of
seeing that the last porter marched with his load at six o'clock ;
that at seven the artillery followed, dragged by two Gallas; and
that in the course of certainly two hours more donkeys and
camels went away loaded. I brought up the rear on horseback,
with my two dogs. Our way led through a flat country, to
which its flora imparted a very peculiar character. I soon rode
past the beasts of burden, which I knew to be under the direc-
tion of trustworthy Somalis, and was alone in the wilderness.
Recollections and pictures of my childhood's days arose before
me involuntarily in this charming, blooming landscape, which
is overgrown with a shrub that reminded me forcibly of our
heath-plant, and on which bees and butterflies were hovering.
Not a sound breaks the solemn silence. Above me the blue
vault of heaven is spread out, under which an eagle soars at
intervals in sweeping circles. Thus I ride onward through the
Scenery Saturday afternoon. My dogs soon get tired of hunt-
and sur- ing through the open field and searching for game in
roundingB. . ° . 7 ^ i i • n i , •
vam, so they trot along behmd my horse, and give
the soul leisure for quiet contemplation. At about two
o'clock I ride past Pemba, where the ground assumes a heavy
character, and maize and wheat-fields appear, ranged side by
side. Here I dismount for a moment, let my horse and my
dogs have some water, and inquire about the state of provisions
at Funga Sombo ("Tie thy bundle"), the goal of our march
A MARCH THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. 65
for to-day. The required information is cheerfully given, and
I ride further, following the track of the artillery. At a
quarter to three o'clock the road leads past Massivatato ("the
three lakes"), and a quarter of an hour later I am hailed with
joyous shouts by my porters, who have already found quarters,
and of their own accord come to meet me with fruits. As
they had done their duty to-day, I caused another ox to be
slaughtered, and the meat to be distributed among them.
The evening was passed in preparations for the following
day's heavy march of seven or eight hours, the first real
achievement for the heavily-laden caravan. I secured
■' . On the
a lew more porters to assist, and commanded the march to
.march for Sunday, July 7th, to begin at five in the
morning. At that hour the call of the trumpet resounded
through the village, and immediately after the porters gathered
together beside their loads, which they now already knew.
At a quarter to six the last porter was with Herr Friedenthal
on the road to Witu ! At half-past six the camels and donkej^s
marched away with the last packages. I was just going to
mount my horse, when it was announced to me that there
were people from Conumbi, who wanted to sell me a camel.
It took half-an-hour to conclude the bargain. I wrote a longer
letter to Herr von Tiedemann, to whom I sent the purchased
camel, so that it was half-past seven o'clock before I myself
followed my caravan. But in an hour's time I overtook the
donkeys, and soon afterwards the camels, which I could for
the time leave behind me, as they were under secure guard.
I rode forward, and once more the solemn gloom of the wilder-
ness surrounded me. This time it was a wilderness indeed.
The Sultan of Witu had well understood how to secure his seat
thoroughly from attack. In Funga Sombo, in 1855, stood the
Arab advanced posts. From that place to Witu the swamp
way leads for hours through swamp and forest. The *°* '""'*•
solitude is the more impressive, as it is not broken even by the
cry of a wild animal. I had been told at Funga Sombo that
the region abounded with lions and panthers, and that only a
few days before a man had been devoured in broad daylight
5
(i6 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
by a lion ; so that I had already made up my mind to some
interesting occurrences. But not a solitary animal appeared.
There was, however, the less time for dreaming to-day, as I
had soon overtaken my porters, and had to give a few direc-
tions to Herr Friedenthal. So I fell back again, to personally
conduct the camels and donkeys through the swamp. To make
this practicable, I had to get a way made through the forest,
which took two hours to do. A camel fell down in the swamp,
and had to be unloaded, and then loaded afresh. Thus it was
The plain three o'clock in the afternoon before we reached the real
ofWitu. plain of Witu. Our approach to that place was made
manifest to us, in the first instance, by thirty soldiers of the
Sultan, who came to bid us welcome in their master's name.
About a mile from Witu I was greeted by Sheriff Abdallah, a
very cultured Suaheli, accompanied by Herr Doerfer, an official
of Herr Denhardt, who also bade me welcome. I sent the
caravan forward under our flag, and in charge of Herr Frieden-
thal, and determined for my part to wait for the camels, which
had again remained behind. But as soon as they appeared in
sight on the horizon I entered the smiling valley of Witu, in
company with Herr Doerfer. Here I found good heavy corn
ground, and the land was laid out in maize and wheat fields.
Witu itself lies on a slight ridge of hills, and is thoroughly
surrounded by a fastness of forest. The entrance to the place
Importance is by two gates strongly fortified, with sentries keeping
of Witu. gy^j.^ jj-g^^ ^^^ jj^y_ ^r.^^ j^g^g perhaps three thousand
inhabitants ; but, by the number of civilised Suahelis, the idea
is kept alive that the stranger is here in one of the centres of
East African life. The court does not afford the brilliant
aspect of that of Zanzibar, but makes a more satisfactory im-
pression through the general and patriarchal unanimity of its
constituents, and was to my mind more interesting, through
the elements of population that were new to me. Here types
of Gallas and Somali crowd among the Suaheli, and beside
these appear the strange head-dresses of the Waboni, and the
muscular forms of the Wapokomo.
Amidst an enormous thronging of the crowd, I rode into
THE FERTILE COUNTRY OF WITU. 67
Witu. I noticed our flag hoisted in front of a house, and
learnt that the Sultan had put at the disposal of our people
four houses, and an ox for their entertainment. I re- „ ,
Snltau
quested Herr Doerfer to ohlige me by going at once to rumo
Fumo Bukari, to report my arrival, to thank him, and
announce my intention of paying him a visit on the morrow.
Fumo Bukari conveyed to me the expression of his satisfaction
at my arrival, and his desire that I should always make him
acquainted with my wishes, for that I was a welcome guest,
and he would be glad to receive me to-morrow morning at
nine o'clock. When I had seen my people settled, I went with
Herr Doerfer to his country house, which was about twelve
minutes distant, to seek a place wherein to quarter the camels
and my horse. Meanwhile I had the tents set up in the largest
open square. After Herr Doerfer and I had taken a bath, we
returned to my tent, where we supped together in exceedingly
good spirits.
The sultanate of Witu, which I have traversed chiefly in a
direction from north to south, appears in its whole extent as
a very flat country, well cultivated here and there. g^.g^tjgtijg
In its northern part it is manifestly less fertile than of thewuu
. Ill J? • T. svdtanate.
in the southern portion, and probably no part or it has
the luxuriance that is found in southern districts, as, for
instance, in Usambara. The population, too, is generally poor.
Only in a few places did I find possessors of large herds, whose
property could be estimated at a hundred thousand rupees.
The native inhabitants generally present a feeble aspect, which
may be chiefly ascribed to insufficient nourishment. Especially
noticeable to persons coming from Zanzibar is the reversal of
the usual credit system, which is carried out to the smallest
detail. When I want to buy cocoa-nuts or any other trifling
article, I must first lay down the money on the table, and then
my purchase is handed over to me. If I order any work to be
done for me by an artisan, he demands payment in advance.
On the other hand, he himself takes each and every article
from the European, on credit. All this makes a very poor
impression. On the whole, I feel convinced that the productive
68 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
power of the country might be verj- much increased if the
conditions of labour were more favourable. There can be
no question that the ground, at certain points, can produce
anything. The natural flatness of the country, with arms of
the sea intersecting it deeply everywhere, also presents favour-
able conditions for transport. If greater powers of capital were
brought to bear here, a very rapid development of culture
might be expected. The hopes, however, with which I once
regarded the back regions of Witu have proved to be entirely
erroneous. Witu is nothing more than an oasis in the great
East African steppe, thrusting a line of cultivation, along the
Tana, into the steppe itself.
On Monday, July 8th, I for the first time met the ruler of
this territory. The Sultan Fumo Bukari had fixed the hour
A grand of nine in the morning for my reception. I resolved
rec^eption ^^ ^jj-g gccasion, SO far as I possibly could, to show
council. ]^jjj^ tjig honour due to a prince acknowledged by Ger-
many. Consequently I caused my soldiers to march out, with
the German banner and the Sultan's flag at their head. They
were made to present arms when we entered the Sultan's house
and when we quitted it. The highest officials of the court,
Sheriff Abdallah, and the first officer of the Sultan's troop,
Omar Hamadi, came to fetch me ; the latter wore the uniform of
a Prussian officer of artillery. I had put two of my servants
into rich red Cavasse uniforms embroidered with silver ; they
had to follow me, bearing the presents for Fumo Bukari — a
handsomely gilded Arab sword, with a real Jehalla blade, and
two unused Dreysesch repeating guns of the newest construc-
tion, with three hundred cartridges. I was accompanied by
Herr Doerfer and Herr Friedenthal. The Sultan, on his part,
had about forty soldiers on guard to receive us, and welcomed
us surrounded by his whole court. His stone house, indeed,
made a very plain effect ; but the assembly did not materially
differ from the surroundings of the Sultan of Zanzibar on
similar occasions.
Fumo Bukari came as far as the door to meet me, and
conducted me to an armchair on the left of his raised seat ;
PREPARING FOR THE START. 69
a chair similar to mine on his right being occupied by the heir
to the throne, a brother of the Sultan. Fumo Bukari is a man
of about forty, with a gentle, benevolent expression of r„„io
countenance. His conversation was in the Kiswahali f"''^"'^.
- -, . . declaration
language, and its subject was naturally the purpose of of friend-
my expedition, which the Sultan promised to further, ^^^'
so far as he could. At my request he at once granted me a
written order to his elders to forward Rust's column directly
to Witu. He also declared himself willing to furnish Tana
boats for me ; and in general he repeated his message of the
day before, that I was to let him know each of my wishes, for
that he was too good a German not to be ready to meet them
in every particular.
The audience lasted an hour, and during the rest of the day
the great men of the place hastened, one after another, to pay
their visits. Some of them were truly cultivated and dignified
men. The same evening I ordered my camels back to Hindi,
with the Sultan's letter, to bring up Rust's column to Witu.
On the following day I had the satisfaction of seeing Herr
Tiedemann arrive at Witu with the baggage that had been left
behind ; so that my own column was now reunited. I now
took the greatest pains to strengthen myself as much as
possible ; but it soon became apparent that porters were not
to be had at Witu in anything like sufficient numbers, prepara-
and that as a point of support to an expedition, the ^^'"^^ ^^^
. . . ■ II precau-
country was not in any direction sufficient. I especially tionsfor
noticed how small was the knowledge of the territory * ^^'"' '
of the Tana, and of the whole back districts of Witu generally.
The land resembles an island which has no communication at
the back. The intelligence, also, that I had obtained from a
few Gallas and Wapokomo in Witu, afterwards proved utterly
inaccurate, and indeed mendacious. So much was perfectly
clear at Witu, that I must seek other points of support for
carrying out my expedition, perhaps on the Upper Tana or
further in the interior, if I would hope to reach my goal, the
Equatorial Province. All this was not encouraging ; T often
had the feeling as if everything I arranged turned out against
70 XE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
me, and eveiy day the doubt pressed heavily upon me, whether
it would not, after all, be better to give the affair up. Actuated
by these feelings I wrote on July 20th to the committee : —
"I have the honour on this occasion to repeat the declara-
tion I made from Alexandria, that I will carry on the under-
Eeport taking to the very utmost bounds of possibility. In
German ^^^ Summer of 1888 I maturely considered the ques-
committee. tion whether I should undertake the task. ^JVow that
heaven and earth seem to rise up against me, the committee
may be assured that I know my duty."
In the same report I added : —
" This one remark I still wish to make : If our expedi-
tion succeeds, I certainly believe that the almost overwhelming
opposition will, in fact, contribute to make it useful to Germany.
For England the whole course of events till now, the motives of
action being known, is plainly a humiliation. I do not believe
that this will be, or can be appreciated in Germany, — the whole
inimical press-manufacture from above and below will take care
of that; but in spite of this it is fortunate for us that the German
Emin Pasha undertaking has, after all, not succumbed to the
English counteracting efforts. And this much I will answer
for, that we shall not experience the fate of the English expe-
ditions into the interior. We may perish, but in somewhat
different fashion from Messrs. Jackson, Last, and Martin."
I had to remain waiting at Witu throughout almost the
whole month of July ; partly because I still hoped to procure
porters from Lamu, and furthermore because I heard that, in
stay at ^his mouth, there was no possibility of supporting even
■^i*'^' a small expedition on the Tana. It was requisite to
buy corn from the Arabs on the coast, and to transport it for
me to Engatana, to convey it up the stream in boats, alongside
of the caravan, if I wished to undertake an advance in that
direction. All this required time.
The constituents of my expedition, as I at last made it up
by the exertion of all my forces, were as follows :
I. Sixteen camels. 2. Eight donkeys. 3. One riding horse.
4. Two dogs. 5. Eighty-five porters (on. paper : the worshipful
CHEERFUL DAYS AT WITU. 71
porters from Witu, as a rule, took to their heels very soon after
receiving their payment in advance, which I was not able
fully to ascertain until the day before my departure).
6. Thirteen women— porters' wives, who only carried ofth?*''
the private baggage of their lords. 7. Twenty-five *^p'*"^°°-
Somalis (twenty-one soldiers and four camel drivers*); of
these I took twelve soldiers and four camel drivers for my
column, the others remained for Lieutenant-Captain Rust.
8. Eight private servants (including cook's boys, cook, etc.).
9. I had engaged Hamiri, a Lamu man, as a guide.
With this force I had to move one hundred and fifty to
one hundred and sixty loads. At Witu this did not appear
a very difficult task ; but it soon became manifest how un-
certain transport by camels was. Already in Engatana I lost,
on the whole, six camels ; and on the Lower Tana the porters
also were quickly reduced by desertion to their original
number of sixty. While I lay encamped at Witu, Herr Clemens
Denhardt arrived there, with Herr von Karnap, Herr Gustav
Denhardt, and Herr Gerstaecker, whereby our social life
became a very lively and stirring one, especially as Lieutenant-
Captain Rust also made his appearance during the second
week of my stay. These gentlemen were with us pieasant
almost every day, and in the evening the soldiers of intereoirse.
the Sultan, and also my Mangemas and Wangamwesi, used to
entertain us with war dances. I look back upon these weeks
at Witu with a kind of mournful pleasure. It was, in a certain
way, the last glimmer of European life that played around us.
Often during the expedition we looked longingly back on the
comfort and sociability which here for the last time brightened
our days.
* One of my camel-Somalis had committed suicide at Witu. One evening
he had stolen a sheep from me. Accordingly, the next morning I called the
Somalis together, and explained to them that I would have nothing to do
with thieves ; I should load the thief with chains, and in that condition send
him back to Aden to be punished. The Somahs declared themselves ready to
execute the order. When they approached the criminal he shot himself
through the head with the rifle, which he fired off with his toe.
72 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
A veiy interesting and useful incident for me, during my
residence at ^Yitu, was the appearance of an embassy of the
Kawallala Somalis, which came to negotiate with the Sultan
concerning the opening of a free road of commerce towards
Wanga. These Kawallala Somalis dwell between Djuba and
Tana, and have of late also spread southward across the Tana
iTegotia- in their warlike expeditions. They press more and
commercial more upon the Gallas, who are compelled to retire
""*^- step by step before them. It is like a powerful
flood, which will probably only be arrested by the strong dam
of the Massai kingdom. On the Lower Tana all tremble
before these tribes, and only the Witu sultanate itself forms
the strong rampart before which they stop. In view of the
breech-loaders of the Witu soldiers, these worthies, as we have
said, condescend to negotiation ; whereas, in general, they
simply take whatever they have a mind to. On July 10th
twenty-three warriors, under Sheriff Hussein, arrived at Witu.
On that day there was no milk to be had in Witu, because all
the Gallas, notwithstanding that they were under the protection
of the Sultan, had fled in panic terror into the woods, with
their herds, before the Somalis.
With us the Somalis endeavoured at once to enter into
friendly relations. At the news of their approach, my Man-
Friendiy gemas, my Central African porters, had rushed to
tions"onhe their weapons without orders, and my soldiers had
somahs. loaded the cannon to receive these wild visitors. Thus
our camp made a very warlike appearance when the Kawallala
went past ; and this did not fail to produce its effect. On
July 11th Sheriff Hussein also appeared with all his people, to
pay his respects and conclude a treaty of amity with me. He
said his tribe had heard of my landing at Kwaihu, and the
Sultan, Ali Nurr, had especially ordered him to convey to me
the friendship of this tribe. I assured him of the high
value I had always set on the friendship of the Somalis, and
added that it had been my intention to march through their
country, but that the way was shorter to my goal through
Witu ; that he was perhaps aware that the Somalis were not
TREATY WITH SHERIFF HUSSEIN. 73
popular in Europe, but I hoped he had heard that I had always
been their friend, and had consequently already several times
sent expeditions to them. Sheriff Hussein replied, that this
was known to him and to all the Somalis, and therefore now
also they would help me. My enemies, he said, were theirs,
and whoever was my friend should be reckoned by the Somalis
as their friend likewise. I rejoined, that I hoped I conversa-
should not stand in need of help ; let him look at my sm"^
arms and my artillery. It was strong enough to over- Hussein,
come every attack by force ; but what I wanted was stores-
oxen and camels. I knew that his tribe ruled over the
countries to the west, between Djuba and Tana. I was about
to ti-avel in that direction, and requested him to provide me
with cattle and camels for purchase, and with good guides to
the Kenia. Sheriff Hussein promise'd he would take counsel
with his people concerning these matters.
In the days next following we had various consultations,
and the result was that the Sheriff declared himself ready to
sell me five camels immediately, and to have more driven
together for my inspection. He declared himself especially
anxious, as he dwelt in the neighbourhood of Oda- Hussein-s
Boru-Ruva, that I should remain neutral in a cam-S^*'""'
paign against the English that he was planning. The ^"^"■"^y-
English, he declared, had shot one of his people, and it was
consequently a matter of honour that he should make war
upon them. That, therefore, was the reason why the Kawallala
afterwards scattered Mr. Smith's expedition.
I have never had to fight with the Somalis, and this I
attribute to the treaty of peace which was set up in writing
between me and Sheriff Hussein, and was concluded on the
last day of my stay at Witu ; wherein the Somalis expressly
acknowledged that they would recognise me not only as their
friend, but, if I demanded it, as their leader also. Several
times, when the affairs of our expedition on the Lower Tana
were in a desperate state, I entertained the idea of betaking
myself to these Somali tribes, in case things should come to
the worst, and to try if it were not possible to excite them to
74 MEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
a march against the Massais, and lead them to Wadelai. The
further course of events happily obviated the necessity of
adopting this measure.
Sheriff Hussein is a tall and dignified figure of a man, with
an entirely European cast of countenance, sparkling eyes, and
Appearance prominent nose. His face is surrounded with a full,
aufhir^"^ close-cut beard. Like him, the other envoys of the
followers. Kawallala tribe were of slender and elastic build, re-
cognisable from afar by their haughty gait and cavalierlike
bearing ; born warriors and commanders ! They wore their
hair long, parted in the middle, and falling in ringlets upon their
shoulders, so that they had almost the appearance of wearing
full-bottomed wigs. They created an impression by their be-
haviour, similar to that made by the proud Elmoran of the
Massais. The presence of a certain courteousness in their
manner makes their inborn pride appear the more plainly.
On the day of my departure from Witu they performed a war-
dance to my honour, in which was expressed, in a very charac-
teristic way, the ultimate destruction of certain presumptuous
foes.
After various postponements I had at last fixed upon July
26th as the day of my departure. To secure a firm point of
support in Witu, and especially with a view to Rust's column, I
had invested Herr Clemens Denhardt with the management of
our expedition there, and had also opened a credit for him with
Pre ara Hansings at Zanzibar. I hoped that, before all things,
tions for Denhardt would get the loads of the Rust column sent
for me to Ngao on the Tana, and from thence by boat
up to Oda-Boru-Ruva, where I purposed to wait for the said
column. With respect to my own column, I had requested
Herr Clemens Denhardt to send me a hundred loads of corn,
and the necessary transport boats, to Engatana, to enable me
to lead my men along the course of the Tana.
On July 25th it was reported to me that the loads were
lying ready for me at Engatana ; and now there was no longer
any reason further to delay my departure from Witu. On that
day I parted from Herr Friedenthal, who wished to go back to
READY FOR THE MARCH. 75
Zanzibar, and definitely appointed Herr von Tiedemann to my
column. With him alone I intended, in the first instance, to
march up to the Gallas on the Upper Tana, a territory which,
according to Ravenstein's maps, which we had before us, would
lie close to the eastern declivities of the Kenia. This after-
wards proved to be a very gross blunder. On July 25th my
column was quite ready for the march ; all loads were packed,
and according to the estimated amount of my carrying Prosperous
powers, I had even reserve porters at my disposal, l^^^^^'^^^
My Somalis were under good discipline, and nine of column,
them were armed with repeating rifles, for which I carried with
me two thousand rounds of ball cartridge. For my little bush-
piece J had one hundred rounds of grapeshot and the same
number of bombshells. I myself carried a capital express rifle
by H. Lenne, in Berlin, with Mauser cartridges, besides a double
shot gun, a Lancaster repeater, and a six-barrelled revolver.
Herr von Tiedemann was armed in the same way. The rest
of my Somalis and my private servants and a few reliable
porters I armed with breech-loaders, for which I had un-
fortunately allowed myself to be persuaded in Europe to take
•cartridges with paper cases. Besides this, every porter carried
a serviceable muzzle-loader, and for these I had five Efficient
loads of cartridges, and in case of need five hundred *""=''°«"i*'
pounds of powder, which I had certainly, in the first instance,
brought with me for Emin Pasha. Thus, small as our number
was, we were well enough equipped ; and if I could only manage
fully and properly to discipline this column, and if the neces-
sary resolution and prudence in the leading of it, on which
everything principally depended, were not wanting, I might
venture to push forward into the land of the Somalis and Gallas,
and whatever might lie behind them.
To do this I was now resolved ; and on the afternoon of
July 25th I took my leave of Fumo Bukara, to whom I declared :
" Nitapeleka bandera ako katika barani " — " I shall carry your
flag into the wilderness." In the evening all the Europeans in
Witu were assembled at my quarters to celebrate our leave-
taking once more. The Somalis had organised a great dance
76
A7:ir 1.I(;I1T (IX DAIIK AFlirCA.
on the space in front of my tent in honour of this partini;-, the
melodies ol' which have also accompanied me throughout the
exjieditiiin. Early on tlie morning of July 2f)th the trumpet
sounded through the streets of Witu, summoning my people to
the march, and shortly after six o'clock Herr von Tiedemanu
led forth the porters into the steppe which divides the sultanate
||f^Vitu from the Tana, marching towards Engatana.
Departure ~ _
forEnga- I had still Ijusiuess in the house of Herr Clemens
Denhardt, where I gave my final directions to Lieuten-
ant-Captain Rust, settled accounts with the Somalis, and ordered
ten camels to be packed. At eight o'clock T gave instructions
for the camels to start, and rode forward myself at a sharp
trot, after Herr von Tiedemann, towards the camping-ground
that had been agreed upon. The die was now cast. When once
I had left the gates of Witu behind, there was no way back for
me but by the circuitous route across the Tana, Baringo, Nile,
and. Clod willing, through the Equatorial Province.
iNSTEUCTINfi THE SOMALIS.
CHAPTER IV
UP THE TANA TO TEE GALLAS.
''" ■ '= . . And, lie thou counscU'd,
Love not the sun too dearly, nor the
istars." — (Goethe.)
~VTTHEN I broke up ni}' camp
V\ nu July 26th I had the
iDtention of marching from\Altu
straight upon E'ligatana. The
Suaheli there had given me ac-
curate information with regard
to the road, and had declared to
me that I could quite Avell reach
Engatana in Avhat would cer-
tainly be a somewhat severe
day's march. As, however, this
had been represented to me ^^^
in other quarters as doubt- first day's
* ., , , march.
Ill], and a first day s march
always brings with it a numlier oi' unex-
pected hindrances and difficulties, I had determined once more
to set u]i my camp, for July 26th, in the neighbourhood
of Witu, at a distauce of from five to seven miles, in a
78 \EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
plantation belonging to the Sultan Fumo Bukari, and I had
issued instructions to Herr von Tiedemann accordingly.
After the camels had been loaded, I hastened on, alternately
at a trot and a gallop, behind the porters, to make the necessary
arrangements myself for the pitching of the first camp.
menUn' I arrived at the Sultan's country seat, but no expedi-
thevauey. ^.^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^^ there. I was informed that the
column had betaken itself into the forest, in a north-westerly
direction. Towards twelve o'clock I came up with it, and
Herr von Tiedemann reported to me that, in consequence of
the peculiar features of the ground, as the Suaheli had pre-
dicted, a further advance in the direction we had taken seemed
to him impracticable for the camels, and he therefore proposed
to me that we should halt for to-day at the place we had
reached, there being water in the neighbourhood. It was a
charming valley in which we found ourselves : on the left a
declivity, along which a watercourse took its way ; on the right
a gradually rising ground, covered with maize and mtana.
Though with some reluctance, I made up my mind to act upon
Herr von Tiedemann's proposal, and gave orders to pile the
loads and set up the tents.
These operations, during the first days of our march, were
always carried out with a certain slowness, as the people had
Doubts and ^'^t been sufiiciently schooled in the art of setting up
difficulties, jjjg teuts. On this occasion the circumstance was
added, that some very high grass had to be cleared away
before a place could be gained for the tent ; and so we sat
on our boxes, in the burning sun, in a somewhat depressed
frame of mind. The discouraging thing was the fact that if the
Suaheli of Witu were not able to give us accurate particulars
even concerning the way to Engatana, it could hardly be
expected that what I had heard from them with respect to
the Tana regions would have any practical significance.; and
that therefore the march into these regions to a certain extent
meant a leap in the dark, which for an expedition like ours is
generally extremely dangerous. For in such expeditions, in
the end, everything depends on the disposition of the porters,
CAMP LIFE AND ITS PLEASURES. 79
on which the leader has altogether to rely. But the porter,
on his part, is exceedingly sensitive until he has become bound
to the leader personally, and unfavourable impressions during
the first days may easily once and for all decide the fate of an
expedition. I was always conscious of the fact that there were
in no direction any reserves for me, and that I must therefore
only reckon upon the materials I had immediately in my hand ;
and that was little enough in comparison with the extent of the
journey before us. However, immediate exertion was effectual
then, as always, in banishing such moods of discouragement.
I at once sent back to Witu to procure that very day a
guide to Ngao, as the road to Engatana was impracticable.
This certainly involved a circuit that would cost us two or
three days ; but, in proportion to the periods of time we had
now to take into consideration, that was practically of no
importance. Meanwhile the encampment had been completed,
my Central African porters had built up their huts of wood
and leaves in a remarkably short time, and when I had had
an ox slaughtered, the whole assembly was soon busy cooking,
and in remarkably good spirits. I myself was gratified, in the
afternoon, by the appearance of a Witu Suaheli of rank, Buana
the Wall of this district, Buana Shamo by name, who ^s^V^"'
announced to me that the guide would be with me sii^e.
that very evening. He himself remained, with his wife, as
my guest in the camp, until my departure.
Towards evening there arrived also in the camp from Witu
Herren Denhardt, Doerfer, and Friedenthal ; and it was, in
truth, for all of us, an equally picturesque and pleasing ^^^ ^^
sight to view the men of the column encamped in the of camp
wilderness round their many fires, with the various
groups feasting, singing, and narrating adventures. It was, for
the first time, a real inland African expedition, now that we
were clear of the civilised districts of the Witu sultanate. It
was the poetry of camp life that we had now before us. Un-
fortunately, the pleasant impression of this fresh picture was in
some measure disturbed by the announcement of the Somalis,
that one of the sixteen camels I had with me had strayed from
80
XEW LIGHT ON JKIRK AFRICA.
the pasture-ground m thi' forest, aud was not to be found. As
I did not lite to abandon this camel to its fate, I determined
A prosaic to postpoue the march from this place lor a Aay, and
loss. ijj, (ii^, ^lext moruini"; to try every means to find the
animal in the forest, which did not appear a very difficult
matter. It was only necessary to tVdlow up its traces ; and if
we did not get hold of it, we should at least satisfy ourselves as
EuKUA, First Servant to Dr. Peters.
to its fate, — if, for instance, it should have fallen a prey to some
wild beast during the night. And, in truth, that very evening
the Wali sent intelligence to his slaves, who appeared in the
camp next morning, as early as ten o'clock, with the missing
camel, that had been somewhat severely hurt with the thorns,
and had lost its saddle into the bargain.
This July 27th, a Saturday, was proljably in every respect
a joyful day lor Herr vou Tiedemann, as it was for me. Herr
PREPABING FOR A LONG MARCH. 81
Friedenthal came back once more to pack up a few loads,
whereby the number was brought to a hundred and fifty-three!
In the morning we fired the trial shots from our little cannon,
and in the afternoon, in the forest, from our rifles a joyful
and other guns. It was the powerful poetry of the ^^y-
wilderness that was irresistibly borne in upon us, and that
still imparts a hallowed character to that day ia the memory
of us all. It was not until eleven at night that the kiongosi,
or guide, ordered from Witu, arrived in camp ; and already,
at three in the morning, I had the alarm beaten and the
trumpet sounded. I had been told that the distance to Ngao
would be a journey of twelve hours.
Accordingly, I was desirous of starting at four o'clock in
the morning, to reach our destination by four in the afternoon.
But the night was so dark, that the porters with Tiedemann did
not move from their position till half-past five ; and the camels
and donkeys, with which I was to follow, were not loaded
and ready until past seven. So sluggish were even now the
movements of our expedition.
I rode off with my camels in a westerly direction, hoping
that I should not meet the column of porters till my arrival at
Ngao. But, to my disagreeable surprise, I came upon An ineffi-
it already at ten o'clock. The guide sent me by the "^''^s"^*®-
Sultan of Witu did not even know the frequently traversed
road to Ngao. Consequently, my column had gone astray,
and was now encamped. I at once caused them to make a
fresh start, while I myself stayed behind to wait for the
camels. But once more, no later than twelve o'clock, I came
again upon Tiedemann's column, encamped beside some water ;
and its elders, the Mangema Nogola and the Dar-es-Salam man
Musa, begged permission to rest for to-day. This I refused,
and we journeyed onward, further and further towards the
west, through the burning heat of that Sunday afternoon.
The landscape, in its flatness, has a Dutch appearance.
The eye ranges far away across the steppe, which is Aspect of
only here and there scantily clothed with bushes, and''^^*"'"''*'^''-
the hot air lies brooding over the moorland waste, deceiving
82 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the eye with atmospheric mirages and fata morgana. ^Yater
was nowhere to be seen ; here and there the dry bed of a river,
or a ditch. The affair began to become wearisome. Towards
three o'clock I rode forward, past the caravan, to look round
in advance for the road, always keeping the imbecile guide
before me. Thirst began to make itself felt, and I lounged
lazily in the saddle, while my fancies began to present to me
pleasant pictures from home. At about four o'clock we came
into a wooded district, where the few people whom I had with
me— Hamiri was among them— at last discovered a swampy
pool, to which they rushed with great rejoicing. Behind it
was a clear space of three thousand yards in breadth, beyond
which the forest began again. In this second forest I dis-
covered a camping place, on which Wapokomo had probably
rested.
In the belief that I was close to Ngao, I again declined the
proposal of Hamiri to stay there for the night, cut through the
wood, and came anew into a bushy region, characterised by
the presence of great hills of the termite ant, which from a
Seeking for distance looked almost like Wapokomo houses and
Ngao. villages. As my horse was exhausted, I marched on
foot with Hamiri and my servant Rukua till towards half-past
five, without seeing anything of Ngao. Then I was incautious
enough to throw myself down under an acacia to rest, and to
remain half an hour stretched on the ground, waiting for my
people. Not a man came. Desolate, oppressive silence over
the whole plain ! Where was my caravan ?
The sun was going down. I went back, and near a thicket
I found nine of my camels, with some Somalis ; I was obliged
to have a way cut for them in a quarter of an hour. I ordered
the Somalis to march on, and not to halt till they came to the
Camping in river ; and they obeyed my command. I myself went
komo ^^''' further back, and found one set of my porters at the
quarters. Wapokomo campiug-place I had before discovered, and
another at the swampy pool we had found that afternoon in the
wood. Whether I liked it or no, I had to make up my mind
to set up the camping-place here for sixty porters and five
A NATIONAL PATRIOTIC PROGBESS. 83
camels. Five porters and one camel had remained behind in
the steppe. I myself encamped in the Wapokomo camp, where
I had the tents pitched, with my private servants and a few
porters. Towards nine in the morning a heavy thunderstorm
came on, with a deluge of rain, which thoroughly wetted my
column ; and in the night we had, for the first time, the
pleasure of hearing lions roaring close to our tents.
On Monday morning at six o'clock I first sent forward all
the camels that had remained behind (the sixth had made its
appearance at an early hour), and then I despatched Nogola, one
of the best of the Mangema men, and two of the best Somalis
to look for the five straggling people. At half-past seven
o'clock the caravan of porters was in complete order, „ , .
■*■ ■*■ Marching
and marched forth with beat of drum, with the black, wUhaiithe
white, and red flag carried in the front. I followed
as usual on horseback ; but Ngao was still not to be descried.
When we had quitted the wooded tract we came once more
into the burnt-up steppe which had made such a melancholy
impression on us the evening before. No water, no grass ;
only a darker strip in the distance. Was it, perhaps, the course
of the Tana ?
At ten o'clock I ordered the procession to incline to the
south ; for in this way we must strike the river somewhere.
At eleven, there it lay before us ! Very invigorating Arrival at
to us was the sight of this water, rolling its yellow *^® ^^"*-
flood towards the Indian Ocean. The Tana is here about as
broad as the Weser below Miinden. We reached it about six
miles above Ngao. I now rode forward, still following the
river, in a south-east direction. Amid the beating of drums
and the joyous shouts of the porters, who reckoned upon a
good meal after the fatiguing march, I halted at twelve German
o'clock before the house of the German missionaries Son')*'^''
in Ngao, and was welcomed by Herren Wurz, Weber, ^^*°-
Heyer, and Booking. At two o'clock Herr von Tiedemann
arrived with the last of the porters, and at six o'clock Nogola
appeared with two of the Pagases and Somalis we had lost
the day before. The impression made by the steppe between
84 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Witu and Ngao had been too much for the nerves of the
other three. They had let the Emin Pasha Expedition be the
Emin Pasha Expedition, and shown it a clean pair of heels.
Most likely they had gone back to Witu.
I immediately sent off two men with a donkey to bring in
their loads, and at the same time despatched a letter to Witu,
to have them arrested there if possible. All this was in the
highest degree annoying.
But altogether alarming was the news I at once received at
Ngao, that no food was to be had there for the porters, for that
Disagree- the Wapokomo themselves were suffering from hunger,
abietidings. ^gj.g gyg^ dying of hunger. This was certainly a very
agreeable piece of intelligence ! It absolutely seemed as if our
expedition were destined to end in a truly miserable manner ;
and that, too, when it had just begun. I heard, however, that
soldiers of the Sultan of Witu had gone in boats to Engatana
the day before, to carry corn for me there from Kau.
Acting on this intelligence, I at once, that very Monday
afternoon, sent Hamiri with two Somalis by boat up to Enga-
tana to bring down immediately to Ngao eight loads of the grain
stored up there, for I feared that otherwise my whole column
would run away altogether on the very first day. Without
these eight loads I could not even hope to reach Engatana, as
probably no food would be obtainable on the road between
Ngao and that place. At the same time I wrote back to
Witu to Herr Denhardt, commissioning him immediately to
purchase there ten oxen for slaughtering, and to send them
to Engatana.
I hoped by these measures to counteract the first heavy
disappointment. I called my people together, explained the
state of affairs to them, told them that there was corn enough
for them at Engatana, and that on the Upper Tana the new crop
Ex lana ""'^'S already ripening. But the negro does not love the
tions not music of the future ; he is a realistic politician of the
S11CC6SSflll
first water. And the next morning I was confronted
by the very reassuring fact that seven of the Dar-es-Salam men
had considered it preferable to seek their fortune elsewhere.
A NIGHT AMONG THE MOSQUITOES. 85
Perhaps the unpleasurable experiences of the night had
contributed to this result. We had suffered comparatively
little from mosquitoes during the expedition; but Ants and
on no night were we molested by such swarms of °"'^*"'*''*=-
these little pests as attacked us at Ngao. The mission had
built its house close by the Tana, amid a wild, luxuriant
grass steppe. Here milliards of mosquitoes swarmed; and
so soon as the sun went down they threw themselves raven-
ously upon the welcome guests, who seemed to offer them
a fresher nourishment than they were accustomed to. It was
of no use that we surrounded our tents and ourselves with
a smoke that brought tears into our eyes ; it was of no use
that we put on drawers and wrapped up our hands in cloths.
The sharp sting of the mosquitoes, who threw themselves
upon us in black serried ranks, pierced through trousers and
drawers ; nor was the mosquito-net any protection against our
unwelcome visitors. Thus the nights passed away, bringing
us disturbed sleep, and, unrefreshed, we rose to encounter
the labours of the day that brought one disappointment after
another.
I endeavoured at Ngao to procure at any rate fish for my
people, but was told that no fish could be got from the Tana
at this season of the year. There was only the mambo to be
had — a kind of eel — and these, unfortunately, but in very
sparing quantity. I immediately sent soldiers in pursuit of my
runaway porters, and especially hunted for them among ,^^ g^ug^g
a tribe of Gallas who had established themselves in *= p°1"«-
the neighbourhood, whose chief came to bring me a tribute
of five sheep, three of which I handed over at once to my
porters. I held a council with these Gallas in the midst of the
whole congregation of my men. In order to terrify these from
further desertion, I charged the Gallas, in the event of my
runaway porters refusing to return, simply to cut them down.
I also held a shauri (conference) with my porters, in ugijauri"
which I explained to them that I would not have people with the
1 1 -IT -IT porters.
m the column who were not willmg to go with me, and
called upon them to give me notice at once if they wanted
86 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRTCA.
permission to go home. No one presented himself; but as I
verj' well discerned, the temper of the men was very unsatis-
factory and doubtful. If a leader cannot feed his men well,
especially at the beginning of an expedition, they go away ; and
for this they can hardly be blamed.
Thus Monday went by, and no news from Engatana, towards
which place I was looking hopefully for corn. My soldiers
came back ; not a trace of the fugitives had they discovered.
I was obliged to confine myself to sending the names of the
Further ruuaways also to Lieutenant-Captain Rust at Witu, in
of the"''' the hope he would succeed in bringing at least one or
Witu men, two to puuishmeut there. The men engaged at Witu
left me in pairs ; during these days, among others the private
servant of Herr von Tiedemann, whom we used to call Fremantle,
betook himself home to his Penates. But this worthy could not
make up his mind to depart without a remembrance of his
master, and accordingly took with him some good shirts and
coats, and, unfortunately, also a money pouch containing
700 marks (£35). The affair was the more deplorable as
there was nowhere a gleam of hope of better things. How
could I expect it would be better at other points of the Tana
than in Ngao, which was comparatively nearer to civilisation ?
Or how could I assume that the main body of my porters would
be intrinsically more faithful than those who had already de-
serted me ? But if my porters went off, the whole
anceofthe undertaking would prove a fiasco of the most ridiculous
por ers. Yvix([ ; and the landing and the difficulties we had already
overcome would assume an altogether comic character. To
make things worse, Herr von Tiedemann, who had gone across
the river on Monday, in the heat of the sun, to. the English
mission, to see after our runaway porters, had got an affection
of the head from the sun, and was suffering from the most
violent cerebral pains.
During those days I had much intercourse with the missionary
Missionary Wllrz ; but our Conversation on the Gospel according
^"'■'^ to St. John and the Lutheran dogma hardly sufficed
to free my mind from the gloomy cares that oppressed it,
DIFFICULTIES OF THE TANA ROUTE. 87
and made our thoughts revert continually to the miserable
circumstances of the moment.
On July 30th, towards evening, the eight loads ordered
arrived at last from Engatana. It was a positive heartfelt
comfort to me to be able to serve out rice and maize in abund-
ance to my people. This was certainly more calculated than
my address to raise the sinking courage of the men. On
August 1st I marched away from Ngao, still in a very March
depressed frame of mind, to betake myself at least as^'*""^^*"'
far as Engatana, where I hoped to find waiting for me some
ninety loads of grain, and the necessary boats for transporting it
onward. We wanted to sleep this night at Marfano ; and I was
accompanied by Herr Weber, from the mission at Ngao, who
wished to look at Engatana, with a view to a possible missionary
settlement there.
This marching day very considerably strengthened the im-
pressions of discouragement which the Tana route had awakened
in me when I first entered upon it. There was no real road, for
the Wapokomo carry on their trade by boats. So we had to
march continually through bush and steppe, always in danger
of losing our way, which indeed happened to us several times.
Then at last we got into a broad and deep morass, in which the
porters disappeared to their hips, and the camels got embedded
in such a way that they had to be unloaded and hoisted ^^^ ^^.^
up with levers, a work in which the whole force of ma
porters, already sufficiently wearied by a ten or twelve
hours' march, were obliged to help. Moreover, at Marfano there
was nothing to eat ; and in the night another porter ran away,
and I could never learn what became of him. That was the
Tana route, to which we now stood committed.
On this day I determined at any rate to make use of the
advantages of this route, by partly unloading my heavily
burdened column, and having a portion of the things trans-
ported up the river in boats. Already at the beginning j^i^j^^i
of July seventy or eighty Arabs had gone up the river, ^^^'^^^
whether on English instigation I do not know, but at all
events to English satisfaction, to stir up the inhabitants of the
88 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Tana banks against my expedition, and especially to stop its
progress, and neither to sell me provisions nor give me the use
of boats. But the gentlemen who proceeded in this manner
against me had not reckoned upon one thing, namely, that
these continual hindrances and oppressions would necessarily
compel me, on my side, to meet extremities with extremities,
and where I found people refusing to let me purchase what they
Necessity of possessed, to fall back upon the right of self-preser-
seif-heip. vation and the right of arms, which is everywhere
acknowledged in Africa, and simply to take what I required. I
had a formal right to do this, inasmuch as I appeared here, to a
certain extent, as an authorised agent of the Sultan of Witu,
whose flag I carried, and whose influence I had undertaken to
spread towards the west. The Sultan's Walls have everywhere
the right to requisition boats and men for the objects of their
lord ; and I appeared in these lands, in some measure, invested
with this power by a document from Fumo Bukari. Therefore
I took possession of two boats at Marfano, and requested the
proprietors to forward a part of my loads to Engatana under
The boats the guard of some Somalis ; and the goods arrived
at Marfano. ^]^gj.g g^^ ^^q Specified time. Thus relieved to some
extent, I set forth from Marfano on the morning of August
2nd, and arrived at about eleven in the morning with my whole
column safe and sound at Engatana.
Here I encountered the great disappointment with regard to
my measures from Witu, and this disappointment was nearly
overturning everything. At Witu I had made a contract with
the Banyans of Kau for the delivery of six miaus or Tana
canoes, with one hundred loads of grain, at Engatana ; the six
miaus were to be at my disposal for use up the river. As in
the meanwhile Herr Clemens Denhardt had undertaken to
Failure of represent me at Witu, I made him acquainted with this
Indmfau arrangement. Herr Denhardt offered to manage the
contract, affair in a safer way for me, through the Wali of the
Tanga territory, Buana Shaibo in Kau. Two days before my
departure from Witu, I sent Tiedemann to Denhardt with the
inquiry whether I might depend upon finding the grain and the
WAITING FOR THE JIEANS OF ADVAXCE. 89
miaus at Eugatana. "When Herr von Tiedemann brought me
an answer in the affirmative, I broke off my own negotiations
with the Banyan, and marched to Engatana. But on August 2nd
I found at Engatana, instead of the expected hundred loads, only
fifty -four, and not a single miau. Buana Shaibu had believed
he had herewith sufficiently fulfilled his engagement !
For the time, this decided the fate of my column. Without
miaus I had no means of shipping the grain up the stream, and
had consequently to remain in Engatana. Herewith began the
darkest weeks of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, serious
Our position appeared to me almost hopeless. In discourage-
spite of the greatest economy, I was obliged to expend °'®'^*-
from two to three loads of grain each day to satisfy the hunger
of my people. The grain decreased more and more from day
to day, and the time could be accurately calculated when it
would come to an end. Whatever was to be got at Engatana,
in the way of unripe bananas and other articles of food, was
soon completely consumed.
It happened, in addition, that the rainy season this }'ear was
unusually prolonged. Night after night cataracts poured down
from the skies, and soon sickness began to rage among my
camels, which in a short time were reduced to the number often.
My people also fell ill, and the desertion of men, one by ^
one, continued, until I made up my mind, once for all, season and
to chain up every doubtful character among them,
under the guard of a Somali, day and night. But worse than
all this was the circumstance that I myself began to lose my
elasticity of mind.
Opposite Engatana is situated a wide region of swamp, the
so-called Shechababu lake. This lake afforded for our support
an inexhaustible shooting-ground for ducks, fowl, and geese.
At this time we lived almost entirely on birds.
But the south-west monsoon, which continually blew with
unusual violence across our camping-ground, incessantly The mon-
drove the marsh vapour over upon us ; and as we were ^"53 'Jj)l_
in the habit of carelessly sitting, often for hours, after ^^t^^s-
supper, in the open air in the front of my tent, I was seized in
90 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
the course of this detention at Engatana with a rheumatic fever,
which shook me violently for two days, and then left behind it
a painful lameness in my left knee, and also in my right arm.
Against this rheumatic suffering I used strong doses of Salicin,
but I did not succeed in completely overcoming it ; and, on
the other hand, the use of quinine and salicyl had the disagree-
able effect of greatly depressing my spirits, and especially my
power of will. How could I thus hope to command an Emin
Pasha Expedition under ordinary conditions ? how much less
to face the quite unusual difficulties of my exceptional position ?
But how could I have reconciled myself even to continue to
live, if the Emin Pasha Expedition broke down in
WG6i£S 01 , _^
dreary this manner P Thus I sat for weeks m Engatana,
wai ing. |3j.QQ(j^,^g Qygj. jj^y fj^^g g^jj(j ^jjg future, while the south-
west wind whistled round my tent, and the sky, from its
murky clouds, poured down torrents of rain on our expedition.*
* I cannot more forcibly express the feelings that pervaded me at the
beginning of our detention at Engatana, than by reproducing a letter which
I addressed on August 8rd to Government Architect Hofmann. This letter
is not without interest for me, because it especially indicates the hopes to
which I still clung at that time. The literal text is as follows : —
" I must confess that this Emin Pasha Expedition makes unusual demands
upon my patience and strength of purpose. The famous Tana route is, just
as I said in the autumn, in reality quite unavailable for expeditions. At
that time the whole river plain is in a state of famine. This it was that
ultimately caused the failure of the English (Pigott's) expedition, and I must
exert all my powers to escape such a fate. I have my provisions carried with
me in boats, which naturally gives occasion for delays. So I only get forward
slowly. In three or four weeks the crops will be ripe, and the misery past.
We are looking forward to an abundant harvest. Now, the people here are
living literally on grass and the bark of trees. There is nothing at all to he
had except water, of which there is enough in the river. You would not
believe the difficulties that arise in provisioning, especially in furnishing
supplies for my camels, donkeys, and my riding horse. To this must be added
the quite unusual days' marches we have to make. Repeatedly we have had
to march from quite early in the morning until from four to six in the after-
noon, before we get to a halting-place. The Tana valley, in its formation, is
quite like that of the Nile on a small scale. The river has carried a fertile
but narrow alluvial surface into a quite desolate steppe. Along this region I
journey ; that is to say, I encamp in it. I do not follow the windings of the
river, but travel diagonally across the steppe towards my camping-ground.
PBOSPECIV AND LABOURS. 91
On the 24th, my condition of mind had become considerably
more passionate, by the state of tension throughout these weeks.
On that day I wrote a letter to Dr. Denicke, from which I
extract a few passages : —
" Meanwhile, every attempt to cause me to waver in my
fixed determination to carry out my task, whether through
hunger, negro mobs, rain, wind, or sickness, appears to me
downright ridiculous. I do not for a moment think of retreat-
ing. . . . I am cut off from my rear. Germany will, as usual,
since I have the distinction to work for German interests, be
' indignant ' at me. I have ' contrived ' to make myself
Here I must again wait for a few days]" (such was my expectation even on
August 3rd) " for grain from Kipiri and Kau, and for my boats.
" So soon as I am at Korkoro, whicli will be God knows when, but with-
out question will be effected, I shall profit by the immediate neighbourhood of
the Kawallalah Somalis " (which was also destined to be a sweet delusion),
" and shall also immediately put myself in communication with the Massais.
The former made a compact with me the last day I was in Witu ; they came
after me. I was to remain neutral in case the Wagalla " (and Englishmen
with them) " attacked them ; in return they will bring cattle and camels to
me to Korkoro, and also to Oda-Boru-Ruva " (which they never thought of
doing) ; " and I am always to be their Sultan so long as I remain in Africa.
So runs the concluding part of the treaty set up by Sheriff Hussein. The
Massais must furnish me with donkeys. Then I think I shall be able to get
easily to the great caravan road of Baringo, where further means of help are
to be found. I must operate in this way because I am cut off from Zanzibar,
and from the rear.
" I have already several times experienced in my life how apparently
invincible obstacles yield to a persistent will ; and I also believe that Provi-
dence actually wills this undertaking, however all appearances seem to declare
against it. For it is only now that I see, with complete clearness, what this
undertaking is capable of becoming for this part of Africa. Steamers must
run up the Tana ; then the Baringo trade will certainly be drawn this way "
(which was an error). " The Wapokomo must be protected against the
Somalis and Massais, so that they gain courage to follow cattle-breeding and
agriculture on a large scale. Stations must make the north-west trade route
safe, far into the south. Perhaps the task of breaking the ground here is
reserved for me. In that case I should understand the contrarieties that
beset me, and that have compelled me to have recourse again to camels, and
always force me back upon the river. I have been obliged to emancipate
myself from all the received traditions of Central African expeditions. But
thus this undertaking may in reality form an epoch in the history of Central
92 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
• unpopular ' in wide circles there. It is a worse thing that
Zanzibar and the coast are cut oif from me, with regard to
porters and provisions. This certainly, throws me back on my
own resources. . . . Once more. The billows that roar against
me may perhaps bewilder my temper here and there, but never
my resolves. Whatever my feelings may be, facts will always
find me meet them like a man. ... My dear Denicke, I hope
— and God will not be so cruel as to will it otherwise— that I
shall do you no dishonour ; and if, to avoid this, I should perish
here with all I am and possess, it will be in the strife, and
whatever may happen, I shall fall as a man ! . . . People like
myself will, probably, not usually get beyond a certain limit,
Africa. Firm as a rock in tliis conviction, I work from morning till evening,
and in this confidence I am determined to oppose my whole being to all
difficulties and troubles, in full trust that if I aid myself, God will also aid
me in the end.
" From Ngao I have taken with me Herr Weber, one of the Neukirchen
missionaries, that he may take a survey of this land in connection with his
duties. He will probably go a few days' journey further up with me." (This
was not done, in consequence of our lengthened detention.)
" You and all friends in Germany only require to have patience with us.
Though we drag ourselves forward but slowly, you may be sure that we stiU
get on as quickly as ever it can be done ; our base as far as Witu remains
permanently secured, and at all events I shall avoid a catastrophe. This is
my first duty. The German Emin Pasha undertaking must in every case be
carried out, and have a practical result. By this undeviating resolve I will
stand or fall, if my force of will be not broken by sickness. But this I do not
apprehend.
" I have especial pleasure in putting myself in communication with you
to-day. Close in front of my tent flows the Tana, very like the Weser at
Hameln. The opposite shore is luxuriantly covered with bananas and maize.
Weber and Tiedemann have gone out hunting, and it is a calm, fine morning,
one in which the soul can thoroughly go into and strengthen itself. Behind
me lies all the jarring of Europe, like the blustering sea, of which not a
whisper, much less an angry sound, penetrates to us here. Let wind and
waves rage behind us ; before me lies the future, and ' Forward ! ' is my
watchword.
" When I look up from this letter my glance always falls upon the mirror
of the Tana, whose waters glide by me, dumb and mysterious. , Whence does
it come ? Perhaps it may be vouchsafed to me to behold its source. That is
in the hands of the Eternal Powers, that regulate the fate of individuals and
of the whole. Farewell."
DAYS BY THE TANA. 93
even of life. And th'ey fail, indeed, in this manner : on the
one hand, they want to display qualities which, in fact, must
go beyond the rule and measure of prescribed bounds if they
are to fulfil their task ; on the other hand, their qualities are
to remain within the limits of private action. The reconcilia-
tion of a contrast and contradiction is here demanded."
The Tana here rolls through a pleasant scene, onward
towards its mouth. Close by the margin of the shore was a
Wapokomo hut, with a barasa or verandah. Here Herr von
Tiedemann and I were accustomed to take our early breakfast,
and I used then for hours to gaze down the river, hoping that
round one of its windings help might appear from the coast.
In the evenings we would again sit before our tent, „ ,
r. On the
having left the cares of the day behind us. Opposite banks of
us, on the further shore, stood a knotted tree, which
from the varied effects of light assumed fantastic forms and
outlines. Sometimes it looted like an old man with a ragged
beard, stretching out his hands threateningly towards us ;
sometimes it appeared in the mist like the Erl-king, with hand
thrust forth, pointing to the west. To my somewhat melan-
choly fancy it always had a threatening appearance. But it
was not on ghosts and apparitions that my fate depended. If
there was any help for us, it must after all be in ourselves.
I shall pass briefly over the many efforts I made in this
direction. I at once sent Hamiri down river to Ngao to bring
up fresh supplies of grain. He actually succeeded in procuring
thirty -four loads, and getting them to Engatana. From g^ppugg
Witu, through the exertions of Herr Denhardt, I re- fi'of
> o Witu.
ceived nine oxen, and if anythmg could keep my
people in good heart it was the appearance of the nine oxen in
question. I used to tell Herr von Tiedemann that so long as
a single one of these oxen walked in front of the expedition
the people would follow him, as iron is drawn by the magnet.
What modest views we still had at that time with regard to
cattle — and how entirely different had our ideas become, a few
months later, when we marched along, with herds of hundreds
and even thousands of oxen, the prize of war !— Our expedi-
94 XEW LIGHT 0\ DARK AFRICA.
tion, still so hungry at that time, was destined to become one
of the best fed that ever marched onward in Africa. I further
succeeded in procuring two large miaus from the Arabs.
On August 8th I sent a few people up the river to look
about, as far as Kosi Nderani, for miaus, and to bring down
any they could get. However, as it usually happens, the
Somalis came back without fulfilling their commission ; they
declared there were no miaus ; they had not been able to get
untrust- any. Thereupon I sent Herr von Tiedemann up the
Toml^f river ; and next morning already he sent me down a
messengers.iniau, and after several days, to my great satisfaction,
came back himself with a second one. This last miau had
certainly cost a few lives, as the Wapokomo of Nderani, who
were being goaded on by the Arabs, had refused to let us have
The cap- oue. Not Only had they insulted Herr von Tiedemann
tured miau. g^^ a couucil, but, when he, notwithstanding, went away
with the miau, they had even shot at him, so that he was
obliged to return their fire in self-defence, on which occasion
four of the Wapokomo fell.
So, after all, I had for the present a little flotilla of four
miaus lying at Engatana, guarded day and night by Somali
sentries. On account of the total want of provisions with
which we were threatened, I reduced the posho or allowance for
the porters to a load and a half per day. The people resisted
Short this in their peculiar manner, by declaring they would
allowance. ^^^ accept a ioad and a half. But when I told them,
in reply, that this would suit me all the better, for that then I
should save all my grain, they came to me in the evening, and
begged me to give them the load and a half, and they would be
content ; which I, on my part, did not do, for I put them off
to the following day. Hereby I put an end, once and for all,
to this kind of resistance, in my own column, for the whole
remaining period of the expedition. Th'e people got more
strict and more accustomed to leave it to me to decide for
discipline, ^j^g^ ^^j^g^^ ^gj, ^Q ^g ^Q^g lj^ ^j^g expedition. Such
" shauris " as, according to the books of travel, were usual
in other expeditions, especially in those of Stanley, I never
AN ENGLISH EXPEDITION REPORTED. 95
tolerated in the German Emin Pasha Expedition. Nevertheless,
as a precaution, when I adopted the before -mentioned measure
on August 6th, I had all the people put in chains who had been
engaged at Lamu and Witu.
The longer I remained at Engatana the more did suspicious
Arab characters show themselves, day by day, around my camp.
Already at the beginning of August reports came daily of the
approach of an English expedition to Engatana. Naturally I
listened to all these communications with the greatest interest.
The English expedition was said to be commandqd by Mr.
Smith, as proved to be the case, and had specially put Eumours
itself in communication with the Kau Arabs. As it English
was now reported to me that the Arabs from Kau were expedition-
trying to stir up my people to desert, and as men belonging to
the approaching English expedition had already been seen in
my quarters, I determined to put a stop to this, by one day
chaining up some yellow gentlemen from Kau, and keeping
them with me, to a certain extent, as hostages. The envoys
from the English expedition, who had manifestly endeavoured
to persuade my people to desert, I caused to be flogged, and
sent them back.
By this means I established something like peace towards
the end of my stay ; but the general condition of the expedition
was only negatively improved thereby, inasmuch as a time of
there was one danger less, to threaten us. From Witu, ^^^p*''^®-
to which place I continually looked for help, none appeared; on
the contrary, the expedition was looked upon there as having
already failed; and an endeavour was made to persuade me
that this could not have, been otherwise, that it had been pre-
dicted. Among the peculiar plans that were discussed among
us day by day, to help us out of the blind alley in which we
were, I cannot forbear giving an account of a proposition made
to me, in all seriousness, one morning by Hussein Fara.
I was accustomed at that time to get some hours' instruction
every morning from Hussein in the language of his people, that
I might give my commands to the Somalis, who did not un-
derstand the Kiswahili tongue. Then Hussein one morning
96 XEW LIGHT Oy DARK AFRICA.
came out deliberately with the observation that my porters were
very powerful and well-built people. When I assented to this
proposition, he went on to remark that Sheriff Hussein
cai^ ° °^^' in Witu had already said the same thing. I observed
studies. ^^ Hussein that every one could see this for himself,
and that I did not wonder at it. Yes, he said, Sheriff Hussein
was desirous to buy himself a lot of slaves. Now, our porters
were in the habit of running away, and so he had agreed with
Sheriff Hussein, that when we came into the district where the
latter was with his herds, I should give over my porters as
slaves to him, and he would give me five camels in exchange
for every porter. He advised me to conclude this business.
In the first place, a camel carried much more than a porter, and
then I could afterwards sell the camels on the coast
diplomatic when the expedition was over, and I should make a
proposal. gQQ(j profit by the transaction. Husseiii made me this
proposition on August 22nd, and frequently reverted to it later
on in the expedition. He could not understand why I should
not make up my mind to so manifestly profitable a transaction,
and he had noticed with astonishment that the whites did not
enter into such little undertakings on the coast. During the
course of this conversation Hussein also expressed his opinion,
that when I had once seen how lucrative such an affair could
become, I should perhaps make up my mind to do business
more frequently in this manner in Africa, But, tempting as
the matter appeared in his eyes, I could not bring myself to
close with his proposal.
Meanwhile the English expedition, under Mr. Smith, act-
ually marched past Engatana, on the opposite side of the Tana
river. But if Mr. Smith had been commissioned to close the
Smith's P^*^ against me there, I must confess that, from his
English first appearance on the scene, he did not follow his
■ instructions very conscientiously. For, instead of keep-
ing close to my camp, and if possible drawing over my porters
to his side, he seemed to find it more convenient to march
round it in a wide circuit, so that altogether I did not get
sight of him and his column. This relation between us was
ENCAMPED AT EN GAT AN A. 97
practically maintained during the whole time we were both
marching along the Tana. When, later on, I followed his
traces, Mr. Smith, whom I repeatedly expected to meet,
had always started again a few days earlier ; so that of him
personally I saw nothing at all, and of his people only so many
as fled to me after the Smith expedition, one hundred and sixty
strong, had been scattered by the Somalis. One day, moreover,
two boats passed our camp, carrying grain up the Tana for the
Englishmen.
During the whole time I had the camp closely guarded by
day and night, because reports were continually reaching our
ears of Arab machinations to attack and plunder us ; and it was
necessary for me, at all hazards, to resist any raids that might
be attempted on my cattle or my boats. I need hardly Danger of
say that I was not much afraid of this Arab coast ^"^^^ '^*^*^-
rabble. I had too much confidence in the discipline we had
introduced in my troop for that, and in my artillery and our
repeating rifles. Seen from the river, our camp at Engatana
had a sufficiently picturesque look. In the foreground ^^^^^^^
was my fine large tent, with the German and the Witu atEnga-
flags. In front the artillery was placed. On the right
was the smaller tent, of Herr Tiedemann, and behind my tent,
and to the left of it, the Somalis, and further off the porters.
The whole presented a handsome and warlike appearance.
On August 23rd I had ordered Hamiri to a rich Suaheli in
the sultanate of Witu, to try and procure me grain from that
place. I had given him eight camels, to bring home the grain
into camp. But already on the morning of the 24th Hamiri-s
Hamiri came back. The camels had not been able to ^'*'^""-
pass through the primeval forest, and so he had been compelled
to return. Now I only wished to wait for the definite decision
from Witu, from whence I still reckoned on assistance, before
making my final resolve. The grain on the Upper Tana was
already ripening. Like the first swallow in spring, an Arab
had a few days before passed Engatana in a boat with twenty
loads of rice, which he said he had " bought " on the Upper
Tana. The maize cobs, too, were already gleaming golden, and
7
98 .Vt'ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
could furnish good food. It was towards the close of August,
when the chief harvest time of these lands is approaching. On
No hope the 25th, in the morning, came the report that there
fromwitu. -^yj^g x^othing more to be expected for us from Witu.
FiA'e minutes afterwards I gave the order to make the four
boats clear, and to load them. The time of gloom}' brooding
was now to be over. If the fate of the expedition was to be
accomplished it seemed to me more desirable to follow the
old Virgilian motto, " Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior
ito,'" than to receive our kismet with the resignation of the
Mahometan.
Sixty-seven loads were deposited in the boats. Wapokomo
of Engatana were requested to embark in them as boatmen. In
Onward by every boat a soldier was posted, with a loaded repeating
boat. g^jj^ g^j^(j ^j^g command of the whole fleet was entrusted
to the brave Hamiri. Towards three o'clock in the afternoon the
boats Avent off, each displaying a little black, white, and red flag,
that fluttered gaily in the breeze. An hour later the camels
followed with forty loads. Then I sat down with Herr von
Tiedemann to breakfast, when suddenly it was reported to me
Missionar ^'^'^^ ^he Somali post that a white man, an Englishman,
Hedden- wished to speak to me. This last designation was
Strom. . ^ °
incorrect ; for the white man who now stepped into the
tent was the Swedish missionary, Heddenstrom, from Kulesa,
above Engatana, whom we had already, on the previous evening,
seen passing our camp in a boat, and who came to make us a
certainly not very edifying communication.
The next station between Engatana and Nderani was a
village called Mitole, near which there is a tolerably large
forest. Missionary Heddenstrom now informed us, he had
certain intelligence that there were concealed in this forest
three hundred men belonging to Futilla, a formidable Somali
in the sultanate of ^Yitu, under a Kau Arab named Bwana
Omari, and that their object was to attack our camp, or lie
in wait for us in case we marched through the forest.
At this news I was not, indeed, anxious about our expedi-
tion as such, but I feared that the Arabs might attempt to
PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 99
get possession of my boats in case thej' put to shore at Mitole ;
— I consequently gave immediate orders that Herr von Tiede-
mann should betake himself at once to Mitole with six Dangers at
Askaris, the camel men, and the artillery, to clear the """i*-
wood and protect the boats. Herr von Tiedemann accordingly
set out at once, but saw nothing of the reported three hundred
Arabs. I may mention at once that two days later, in a wood
between Muina and Mbuji, I came upon a few hundred figures,
who might have furnished the foundation for Heddenstrom's
report. I immediately had my ordnance brought up, and went
forward, armed only with my revolver and accompanied by five
men, towards the hill where the fellows stood ; and we had not
even to fire a shot, so quickly did the whole assembly vanish,
like chaff before the wind.
After Herr von Tiedemann had marched away with the
Somalis on Sunday afternoon from Mitole, I called my porters
together, and gave orders that they should make everything
ready for setting out on the following morning. I told them I
had intelligence that the harvest was ripe on the Upper Encourag-
Tana ; that I had had enough of the hungry time for d^fgs^tothe
my people, and would now lead them into districts people,
where there would be plenty to eat, if they were prepared to do
their duty. These words did not fail to produce a good effect.
" Maneno niasuri kapissa" ("Exceedingly good words!"),
replied Nogola in the name of all the porters, and the feeling
with regard to the departure from Engatana was manifestly one
of pleasurable excitement.
It is a remarkable peculiarity of human nature that we
perhaps feel a greater attachment to places in which we have
had to suffer, than towards those where we have passed happy
days. That was my experience on Sunday, August ^^^^^_
25th, after Herr von Tiedemann had marched away, brances of
. . suffering.
My feeling with regard to quittmg Engataaa was one
of deep sadness. I once more visited all the spots where I
had brooded over the hard strokes of fortune that had alighted
on our expedition, and could hardly refrain from tears. 1
learned to my joy on the same evening that Heddenstrom's
100 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
report had been unfounded. Next morning, in a pouring rain,
I sent away the caravan of porters likewise to Mitole.
The Wapokomo of Engatana hypocritically assumed the
appearance of a kind of sorrow at their parting with me, but
put on a very joyous air when, at the last moment, I made them
a present of a few empty boxes and chests. We parted
from the Ostensibly as good friends ; but this did not prevent
apo omo. ^^g^j, ggj^tiiijg an embassy to the Sultan of Witu, with
the declaration that my expedition had ruined them, and a
petition to be allowed to found a new village. Ingratitude is
the world's reward also in Africa. It was a great satisfaction
to me that, when we began our march, not one of the porters
was missing. The experiences I had had, nevertheless, caused
me to secure with cords all I still had of the people from the
Lamu district, and to lead them up to Oda-Boru-Ruwa under
especial guard.
M^hen all were on the road, in a continuous pouring rain, I
left Engatana with Hussein Far a, my servant Rukua, and Tell,
the last remaining one of my dogs. The ground was so clayey
and slippery that we only advanced slowly, and did not reach
Mitole until towards twelve o'clock, though it is only seven
and a half miles distant from Engatana. I was very glad to be
able to substantiate, on this journey, that the remains of my
rheumatism had disappeared.
The way by the Tana is always outside the belt of river
scrub that runs uninterruptedly along by the stream in its
Scenery of lower and. middle course. Especially in the middle
the Tana. cQu^se this uuderwood is comparatively broad, so that
in the morning we had to work our way tolerably far from the
camp out of the thicket, and in the afternoon were obliged to
work back to it. This wood is only broken, in the immediate
vicinity of the villages, by plantations. Here are growing
bananas, mtama, maize, batatas, and various kinds of bean
fruits.
Seen from the river, the banks of the Tana throughout pre-
sent a very charming landscape appearance, whether they are
bordered by plantations or by bush forest. Outside this belt
THE STEPPE AND ITS CHARMS. 101
one comes upon the dry steppe, a region exceedingly conAe-
nient for the march, covered with mimosas of various kinds,
whose thorns, however, often unmercifully tear the Eegjon ^j
clothes and skin of the horseman. Frequently the *^® ^*^pp«-
march is for hours through tracts of cactus, whose hard prickles
become dangerous to the feet of porters and beasts of burden.
This steppe, through which the Tana rolls its flood along, forms
a part of the great North-East African border plains, the abode
of Somalis and Gallas. Unfruitful as it is, from its aridity, for
plantations of any kind, it yet offers a very picturesque and
lovely scene to the eye of the traveller, especially after the
rainy season, and also affords a lively and exciting picture from
its wealth in game and animals. There is the ante-
. ° Animal life
lope m large flocks ; there may be seen each morning of the
the heavy traces of the elephant and the rhinoceros ; ° *^^^'
there great companies of baboons and other apes pursue their
gambols, and bucks of all kinds afford welcome occupation for
the rifle. In the air, pea-hens and other fowl fly abroad, the
wild duck and the wild goose sweep by, and here are seen the
great pelican, vulture, and eagle.
Nothing more delightful can be imagined than a march
through this Tana steppe at an early morning hour. When the
column was on the road, in good order, and I left the camp in
the rear of all, either riding my horse, or striding with Hussein
and my servants through the dewy steppe, the eye ExHiarat-
roved delighted over the plain covered with its strange i^is'iimate.
formations of bush. Seldom in Europe can such a delicious
elastic clearness of the air be enjoyed as is found in the morn-
ing hours in Africa, almost under the Equator. On the left,
after we had crossed to the right bank of the Tana, the river
winds along, a dark-green, snaky line ; before us, on the
horizon, is seen the column of porters, like a little straight
thread ; and behind it the camels, with their strange swinging
movement. In all the leaves and blades of grass millions of
dewdrops are gleaming like diamonds, in the bright but a cheerful
not oppressive tropical sun. The heart beats higher '^^'"'^■
with joyous excitement, and all the privations of the life, com-
102 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
pared with that of Europe, are forgotten in this pure feeling, in
viewing this manifestation of the greatness of God, which offers
itself to our contemplation more immediately here than where
man has mingled his creations with it. These were wonderful
hours, which were further brightened by the consciousness that
we were moving towards the appointed goal ; that we were on
our way to Emin Pasha in the Equatorial Province. Over this
first part of the expedition lies in our remembrance a bright,
sunny glow ; perhaps because the impressions of Zanzibar and
the coast were yet recent in us, and formed a dark background.
On these marches it was my custom to leave the camp last
of all, and then, when we approached the goal of our day's
Order of the march, to Overtake the others; so that I generally
procession, arrived first at the new camping-ground. It was Herr
von Tiedemann's duty to march immediately behind, and with
the porters. This arrangement was modified several times
during the course of the expedition. When we had passed
beyond the districts where we could procure guides, and it
became necessary to settle our own route with maps and the
compass, I made it a rule to march at the head of the expe-
dition. But here we were still in the territory of the Wapokomo
tribe, where in every village a few ells of stuff would purchase
the services of a guide to the next. To-day we are encamped
at Mitole, a little cheerful place, surrounded by plantations of
maize and bananas.
Already, as I drew near the village, the elders of the place
came out to meet me, to complain that my porters had plun-
compiaints ^^^^^ ^^^^^ maize fields. Sorry as I was for the
of Mitofe^" Wapokomo, this was, in one respect, an agreeable
piece of news for me, as it proved that the maize
harvest was really ripe, and that I should accordingly, in all
likelihood, find subsistence for my people, during the continu-
ance of the expedition along the Tana. I have already men-
tioned that I had with me a writing from the Sultan of Witu,
addressed to the village elders of the Wapokomo.
The reading aloud of this despatch was always the proud
achievement of fat Hamiri, who, according to the varying wants
L]rP/!ES,<<IVE ADDRESS BY IlAMrni:. 103
of the expedition, read all kinds of things out of it, with a
fluency that perfectly amazed us. If it was grain we wanted,
he would annouuce to the elders in a loud voice, how it was
the particular desire of the Sultan of Witu, that all
the ^^ apokomo should hasten to bring corn and maize, imaginative
If we required boats, it was boats that formed the ''°°-''™'='^-
subject of the Sultan's letter. Astonished, like the ibwls at
the preaching of Reynard the fox, the Wapokomo would stand
/■Ls^sB-S^r^'r
' That's the Height oe the Englishman ! '
in a. half circle, listening ; and they were filled with the most
profound respect when, at the end of this oration, Hamiri
exhibited to each in turn the seal of Fumo Bukari, with which
the letter was stamped. Then, in conclusion, he would proceed
to explain to the people the difference between the Englishmen
and me. The Englishmen, of whom every one in the district
knew that they wanted to prevent the expedition, he declared
to be " kidogo kapissa " (exceeding small), and he would hold
his outspread hand about six inches over the ground ; I, on the
104 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
contrary, was "mkubua sana; " and he would hold his hand
high — as high as he could, and, as his own height did not seem
to him sufficient for the occasion, he would jump two or three
feet from the ground. The worthy chiefs of the Wapokomo were
then accustomed to quit the conference with a secret shudder,
and at its conclusion they would bring together as much as
they could collect of the articles demanded by Hamiri ; the
only deplorable circumstance was that the said Hamiri was
much given to the practice of demanding, say, one half of the
supplies thus afforded, for his own worthy person. Whatever
could be obtained disappeared in his insatiable maw ; a fact that
did not greatly conduce to his popularity in the caravan.
If at Mitole we succeeded in some measure in supplying the
wants of the caravan, aifairs unfortunately wore a very different
aspect on the next day at Muina, a village lying about ten miles
A difficult further up the stream. The journey thither was already
hungry ^^'■T exhaustiug and toilsome. The place lies very
march. rnuch hidden in the river forest, and I was obliged to
send forward Wapokomo to cut a way for porters and camels
through the tangled underwood. Thus we did not arrive at the
place until between three and four o'clock. Here the Wapokomo,
if indeed they still possessed anything in the way of supplies,
had carefully carried it away, and I saw myself compelled to
have one of the six oxen I had with me slaughtered, that my
people might have something to eat. I immediately entered
into negotiations with the chiefs of this place for the supply of
boatmen as far as Oda-Boru-Ruwa, and these negotiations were
Hiring terminated in a peaceful manner. The twelve Muina
boatmen. ^^^ whom I had with me took the boats up safely to
the Gallas territory. I put them all under Hamiri's special
superintendence, and thus I had personally very little to do
with the management of the boats.
But in Muina my expedition had to experience a porter's
tragedy, which, if it had no other result, at any rate decreased
my confidence very considerably. After I had made all prepara-
tions for next morning's march, I went to bed at nine o'clock ;
but I was aroused even before eleven o'clock by my servant
DETAINED AT MUINA. 105
Rukua, who came to tell me "Pagasi wiote wamekimbia" ("All
the porters have run away"). This certainly proved to be an
exaggeration, for Nogola came directly afterwards, and E^eiting
reported that eight porters had just absconded, taking '^^^^ '='"'-
their wives with them ; but these were not coast people, thrporters.
but Mangemas. In the fact that the Central African men were
beginning to desert lay the alarming element of the affair, quite
apart from the inconvenience of the reducing of the expeditiori
by the loss of eight bearers. I immediately had the Somalis
mustered, and at once despatched six of them in a boat
down the Tana to Mitole, with orders to capture the porters,
who would make their way to the place by land, or to shoot
them down. The Somalis, under the command of Nurr, posted
themselves in ambush in the forest near Mitole. As they could
not get the porters, who were seen approaching at dawn of day,
to stand, they shot two of them, whose corpses were thrown into
the river.
Meantime I lay dozing, with very unquiet dreams, in my tent.
I fancied myself back at Neuhaus, on the Elbe, my native place,
but still occupied in getting back the absconding porters. The
dream ended each time with the sudden discovery that all my
porters had run away. Next morning, however, I so far re-
strained myself as to compliment Nogola, to whose
tribe the runaways belonged, in the presence of all the the best of
people, on his vigilance. I thus effaced the evil im- ^*'
pression which the absconding of eight men might have made,
by putting the others in good humour. I was now obliged to
stay at Muina until my Somalis returned from Mitole ; but
towards noon, having succeeded in obtaining some maize from
the neighbourhood, I sent Herr von Tiedemann with the porters
up the river to Mbuji. Meanwhile I remained encamped at
Muina, with very gloomy prospects for the future. I uespond-
derived a certain amount of comfort from the perusal ency and
n T-* 1 • philosophy
of a chapter in Schopenhauer's " Parerga " and " Parali-
pomena," on the apparent design in the fate of the individual,
wherein Arthur Schopenhauer demonstrates the necessity of
everything that has happened. But after all, in situations of
106 XEW LIGHT ON BARK AFRICA.
real difficult}-, the thought that we suffer from the inevitable is
not a very powerful consolation. Still, as the mind in this way
arrives at the recognition of a fixed plan and providence in the
world, there is a certain amount of comfort to be extracted from
it. It was also on this day that I had leisure to reflect on
Goethe's advice, not to be too fond of the sun and the stars, but
to follow even into the empire of darkness. The first two lines,
Avhich I have prefixed to this chapter, appeared to me at the
time especially suitable to our condition, inasmuch as Herr von
Tiedemann had suffered, in bodily health, and in elasticity of
mind, by the action of the sun, and I had paid dearly for
incautiously exposing myself to the starry sky.
On the evening of August 28th I made up my mind to cross
the Tana on the following day, and to enter English territory.
On the one hand this would certainly create an additional
barrier between my expedition and Lamu, but on the other I had
ascertained that the right bank of the Tana was more highly
cultivated, and thus would aff'ord better points of support for
my advance. The British East Africa Company had, indeed.
Foreign previously informed me that it could not allow me to
hostility, march through its territory ; but I knew then, as well
as I do to-day, that the British East Africa Company had no
right to issue such a prohibition, as all these regions fall under
the provisions of the Congo Treaty, which guarantees an equal
right of colonisation and freedom of transit to all the contracting
powers. On the same evening I made Lieutenant -Captain Rust,
further down the river, acquainted with this my decision.
Next morning I was considerably delayed at Muina, because
the boatmen engaged by me the day before had not put in an
Departure appearance. I was obliged to have the surrounding
boatBfrom region rausacked, and pick them up as I could, where-
Muina. upon J gent them down under a safe escort to the boats.
Shortly before my departure I received, to my great joy, a
Good news Communication from Lieutenant-Captain Rust, dated
articles of fi'om Ngao, informing me that he had effected the
barter. journey to that place, and that the articles of barter
that Herr Toeppen had looked after at Zanzibar had already
GOOD TIMES OF PLENTY. 107
arrived at Kau. This was an extremely welcome piece of
news. The dangerously uncertain character that the expedition
threatened to assume was now suddenly altered, and the affair
brought into a practicable track. If I had articles of barter I
could procure means of porterage ; and if Rust was on the
Lower Tana, this was another door closed between my porters
and the coast. I could now dispose more freely of the few
articles I had with me, and thus possible causes of quarrel
between the natives and my expedition would be obviated.
In buoyant spirits I accordingly quitted Muina, between seven
and eight o'clock, and betook myself to the road toM'ards
Mbuji.
It was on this march I had the encounter, already mentioned,
with a few hundred armed men, who ran away precipitately
before me and a few Somalis. The incident had no further
practical result than that of increasing my contempt for the
African world in general, and thus working favourably upon
my later resolutions. When I approached Mbuji, Herr von
Tiedemann met me, and I thought, "What disagreeable news
may he have brought ? " Herr von Tiedemann had the
same feeling with regard to myself. But this August good for-
29th was to be a day of good fortune for us. Herr von
Tiedemann had to report that he had discovered an Arab rice
magazine of twenty to thirty loads ; while I could give him, in
return, the glad tidings of the approach of Lieutenant- Captain
Rust. As the rice store was in a territory into which Herr von
Tiedemann had forced his way a few weeks before to a supply
defend himself against warlike proceedings, we declared o^""^'
it to be lawful prize according to the rights of war ; and now,
after their sufferings from hunger, my people for the first time
revelled in plenty. Men and beasts filled their empty stomachs
with the precious grain, and the feeling in the camp was one of
pleasurable excitement.
I determined to cross the river that same afternoon.
Towards one o'clock my boats made their appearance ; and
now I began, in the first instance, to send across a few soldiers
with Herr von Tiedemann, and then boat-load after boat-load of
108
.V/:il' fJClIT ox HARK AFRICA.
packages of amiiuuiition was transported to the opposite side.
The \A'apokomo of Kosi >,'derani, who had assembled od the
opposite bank at our arrival, disappeared like chaff before
tlk' wind, so soon as we began to operate with our boats.
We worked the whole afternoon ; camels, oxen, and
of the donke3's were fastened behind the boats, and thus
taken over to the o]iposite side. In the evening at six
o'clock the ])assage of the Tana, had been accomplished. I had
The pas
sage
Tana.
Crossing the Tana at Mbdji.
the camp pitched, and the porters were watched all the night
through by five sentries with loaded guns.
When the Nderani people saw that we had succeeded in
establishing ourselves upon their bank, and heard that I in-
tended to march next morning upon Kosi itself, the Sultan
Visit of the appeared in the evening with some of the chief men of
Sultan. ^Y\^, j)lace, threw himself on the ground before me, and
begged for peace. I enjoined him to furnish a guide on the
morrow, to have a way cut through the forest, and to supply
PENINSULA OF KOSI NDERANI. 109
two miaus. When, on his part, though in a frightened tone,
the man demanded presents as restitution for the men shot
by Herr von Tiedemanri, I answered him roughly, and this
item disappeared from the order of the day. Meanwhile our
relation to each other remained but a "sour-sweet" one.
During the night I three times visited my sentries, who were
guarding the porters. While my attention was entirely con-
centrated on this point, a Kau Arab, named Ahmed, who was in
my service, managed to play me a shabby trick. He unmoored a
miau containing nine loads, broke up the loads with an
1 1 1 T , A piece of
axe, and sank them down the stream, afterwards over- Arab
turning the miau. On the following morning I managed, ^^^^ ^^^'
indeed, to recover the miau itself and two loads of preserves,
but we had lost two chests of bombshells and grenades, the
whole of our library, two loads made up of tea, cocoa, coffee,
sugar, and salt, a chest containing tow, revolvers, parts of guns,
etc., the only load of beads I possessed, and a load of cognac.
Nevertheless I caused the column to march away next morning
for Nderani, carrying with me all the boat-loads, which j.oj,fjfig^
from that time I always had regularly landed. In camp at
Nderani I established myself in a strong camp, which
I caused to be completely surrounded by sentries ; and on
August 31st I went with two boats, four soldiers, and two
porters back to Mbuji, where I succeeded in finding out the
place where Ahmed had sunk the loads.
The first thing we fished up was Thomson's " Through
Massailand," which afterwards did me good service. We
worked the whole day long, and presently got up a number of
bombshells and grenades. To continue this work I myself
remained at Kosi Nderani on September 1st, on which Description
day I sent away Herr von Tiedemann with porters and ofNderam.
camels to Makers. Kosi Nderani is a charming and ex-
ceedingly fruitful peninsula, running out into the Tana, where
the French missions of St. Mary and the Sacred Heart esta-
blished a station only half a year later ; which, however, had
to be abandoned, as the place was too much subject to inunda-
tions of the Tana. The Wapokomo here have a wealthy and
110 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
prosperous appearance, for we are now reaching the most
productive districts of the Lower Tana.
On September 1st I succeeded in recovering about half the
lost goods from Mbuji, and in procuring two more miaus at
Kosi. I had now seven miaus in all, of which I sent one down
A supply of to Ngao to Lieutenant-Captain Rust, under guard of a
™^='^=- Somali soldier, with the order to send me part of the
articles of barter as soon as he should have got together a
small array of boats. On the morning of September 2nd, ^yith
a few of my people, I followed Herr von Tiedemann to Makere,
after taking a friendly leave of the Sultan and his followers. I
was struck by the enormous number of game animals on this
tract. Great herds of antelopes awoke the instinct of the
Game chase, and I practised, for the first time, the art of
animals, pm-guing the herds of antelopes on horseback, and
shooting one of them down from the saddle, — certainly with
a negative result. This is the manner in which the Somalis
are accustomed to hunt ; they kill the lion from their horses
with lances. In Makere I found my people safe and sound, and
at once entered into friendly relations with the Wapokomo.
But when I enjoined them to bring in provisions and to provide
guides for the following morning, to lead me to Keredja,
the whole population vanished at once ; and to prevent my
people from suffering again from hunger I was obliged to supply
Tribute Kiyself on my own account, from the ripening maize
from the fields. When my men made use of the permission
^'accorded them, the Wapokomo sought to drive them
away by force, on which occasion, to my regret, two of them
were wounded by my people. The foolish suspicion of the Wapo-
komo was continually,'during the further course of the expedition,
giving rise to similar incidents. They could not imagine that
any one who had so much power in his hands as we possessed
could make up his mind loyally to fulfil the obligation incurred,
and, like the real " Friend Lampes "* that they are, they pre-
ferred to abandon house and home, and, if necessary, wife and
* Lampe is the hare in the burlesque epic of " Reynard the Fox.'' He
i.s depicted as exhibiting the proverbial timidity of his race. — Te.
KIN A KOMBE AND ITS SULTAN. Ill
child also, rather than maintain relations with us. To get them
to come back to Makere I at last threatened that if this were
not done I would burn down their village; but even charaoter-
this threat, which, by the way, I did not carry into t^g°^f „
execution, did not induce them to return ; and thus it ^0™°-
happened that on the following morning I had, for the first
time, to start without a guide on my way to Keredja.
This day again it rained very heavily, and my column had
to suffer considerably, especially the camels, which I could not
put under shelter at night, and which succumbed, one after
another, to the hardships of this Central African climate.
Here, at Keredja, however, I had at least friendly intercourse
with the natives, who brought me food, and sold me a large
miau, which would carry fifty loads. When I had completed
this purchase, I sent away two of the miaus I had brought
with me to Lieutenant-Captain Rust at Ngao. On September
4th I arrived at Kina Kombe, the chief place of the , . ,
^ . Arrival at
whole territory of the Lower Tana. The place is Kina
so hidden in the primeval forest that in the after- "^ ^'
noon we had, in the first instance, marched past it, and only
arrived, by a very circuitous route, towards five o'clock. Here
is a comparatively intelligent Sultan, the only ^\'apokomo
on all the Tana who makes anything like a dignified im-
pression upon one. Kina Kombe is a great village, surrounded
by a strong fortification ; besides the Wapokomo who live
here, it is inhabited also by Gallas and Waboni. The j^^g^^g^
Sultan led me into a house belonging to Herr with the
Schlumke, who from here had carried on ivory-
hunting. In this house I stayed the night. The Sultan
declared his willingness to sell me food, and asked me to
forbid my Somalis to go into the place, as the Somalis on
the one side and the Gallas and Wapokomo on the other were
deadly enemies. Food was also brought in abundance, and I
determined to stay here through September 5th to feed my
people up a little.
On the morning of September 6th we resumed our route, to
reach a camping-place, not far from the English station of
112 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
Subakini, by five in the afternoon, after a very heavy march.
According to the accounts I had received at Kina Kombe, I
had to expect that I should at length meet the English
ftatiof expedition of Mr. Smith, whose intention it was, I had
at subakim. ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^ further advance up the Tana.
Consequently, I did not march that evening as far as Subakini,
for I wished to bring a fresh and a quiet mind to the contem-
plation of this English problem next morning. As the affair
greatly interested me, I marched the next day, with ten soldiers
and my loaded ordnance in advance, towards the English station.
I presumed that I should find Mr. Smith just at breakfast, and
already rejoiced when I thought of our salutation. Just before
the place, I drew my column of camels around me, made a
circuit round the English station, and appeared suddenly on the
western side, in sight of it. A lively rattle of musketry
resounded in the station when they saw me. I galloped up,
and as my Wapokomo ran away the moment they heard the
firing, in order to give them courage I jumped my horse over
the not very high enclosure of the station. This was certainly
not a very prudent proceeding, supposing, as I at first thought,
the firing had a hostile intention. But hardly had I
the Arab jumped dowu from my horse, revolver in hand, in the
garrison, j^^^jg^ ^^ ^j^g Arab garrisou, than they all bowed before
me, and kissed my hands. They said the firing had been
intended as a salute ; and I heard immediately that Mr. Smith
had already marched away a few days ago, and was accordingly
still in advance of me. I also received positive intelligence
here that the Pigott expedition had gone to wreck on the Upper
Tana. The very intelligent chief of the station, a half-breed
Arab from Zanzibar, behaved very amiably to us, pointed out
a very beautiful camping-place under a mighty fig-tree in a
field of maize, brought me rice for my private use, and also
poultry, and procured me miaus from the inhabitants of the
place, so that I was able to dispatch two more boats the next
day to Lieutenant-Captain Rust at Ngao. Unfortunately on
this day my own six miaus did not arrive, and therefore I
resolved to wait for them, with some few of my people, on
SATISFACTORY DEVELOPMENT OF AFFAIRS. 113
September 8th at Subakini, sending Herr von Tiedemann
forward once more with the porters. He was to march upon
Sissini, where I would overtake him on September 9th. He
was to accomplish the long march to Sissini in two days, so
that no loss of time might arise from my waiting at Subakini.
Here, from Subakini, I wrote a detailed report to the German
Emin Pasha committee, sent the two miaus, as I have stated,
to Lieutenant-Captain Rust, and at about two o'clock Arrival of
I was rejoiced to see my own flotilla of miaus, under ^fth'tL
Hamiri, sailing up with colours flying. I sent this "i^*"^-
flotilla onward towards Sissini the same day. Thus things
developed themselves at Subakini in a very satisfactory way.
How the report could have originated, that was afterwards
despatched in telegrams to Germany, that I had established
myself here for a lengthened stay, and was waiting at
Subakini for goods from the coast, has never been clear to
me. Perhaps it arose from the fact that I had my letter from
here forwarded through the agency of the English mission
at Goldbaute.
Already on September 9th I marched to Sissini, where I
rejoined my main column. Here also I succeeded in procuring
plentiful supplies of food for my people. I still
• 1 , 1 ■ n ^\ L- 11 Sissini.
contmued to have their hrearms taken away irom all
the porters every evening, and posted two sentries to prevent
any possible further desertions ; but gradually I began to show
more confidence with respect to the people, as the relations
between us had desirably altered to my advantage. On
September 10th I arrived at Malalulu, where we were
altogether out of the territories of the Sultan of Witu. The Ger-
Here I resolved to hoist the German flag for the first Sristedit
time on the north side of the Tana, to make -it clear to Maiai»i"-
the English that the sphere of their interests extended only
to the southern side of that river. On a lofty mast our flag
was run up, and waved in these regions, for the first time, in
the evening breeze, saluted with volleys of musketry and some
cannon shots. I had brought over from the Sultan of Malalulu,
on the opposite bank, a sheep, to celebrate the day, and on my
114 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
part bestowed on the W apokomo, as a return gift, a camel which
had fallen that day.
From here we went forward in long marches towards
Massa, which we reached on September 12th. The grain was
Arrival at iiow completelj^ ripe, and the whole Wapokomo com-
Massa. munitj in a very jovial humour in consequence. In
the next villages to which we came it was rather difficult
to meet with sober people with whom we could negotiate, as
the yellow grain is consumed chiefly in the form of brown
pombes or beer. The consequence to us was, however, that we
also had enough to live upon, and the expedition accordingly
consolidated itself more and more. Massa is the name of a
whole region, whose settlements lie on both sides of the river.
The Massa The chief place is on the northern bank of the Tana,
region. ^^^ ^^^ Sultau of it asked me to hoist the German flag
there, and concluded a treaty of protection with me. To make
the relations between us more intimate, I remained in this
district on September 13th, because for me and for Rust's
column it was of especial importance to completely assure
ourselves of this last great place, before entering upon the Tana
steppe proper.
Some distance above Massa the lower course of the Tana,
where that river has formed a fruitful alluvial tract in the dry
steppe, comes to an end, and we get to the middle part of the
Lowest river's course, in which the character of the steppe is
Murse^of completely maintained. The middle course is marked
the Tana. -\^j ^jjg abseuce of alluvium and by the close approach
to the stream of high steppe-shores. We hoisted the German
flag on September 18th at Massa in the middle of the village
square. It was, as before, saluted with firing of cannon, and
in the evening a great popular festival was held in the place,
duly to celebrate the joyful occasion. Hamiri was the
manager of this popular entertainment, which consisted in a
Cheerful general dance of the Wapokomo ; that is to say, of the
^nceofthe male part of the population. To the beat of drum
Wapokomo. -\^^^■^■,
and the rhythmical hand-clapping of all the ladies in
the place the old Sultan and the different Wapokomo danced
.1 2IERRY VILLAGE C02niUNITY. 115
along, in all kinds of more or less graceful or ungraceful
evolutions, in front the old Sultan, who, during the afternoon,
had enjoyed himself over the cognac in my tent, and in his
own quarters had already done adequate justice to the pombe.
After supper we crossed over to the right side of the river, to
get a nearer view of this spectacle ; and when I considered the
cowardice of these robust fellows, which had exhibited itself all
along the Tana in a perfectly comic fashion, I was obliged
involuntarily to think of friend Lampe, with his family, how he
enjoys life guilelessly and merrily, but yet is always on the
alert to escape by flight from real or fancied danger. Noctnmai
Till late into the night the sounds of the "ngoma," or ^^^t^^ai.
drum, sounded across into our camp, till at last I made them
call out to the people beyond the river, that now there had been
enough of it, and I requested they would go to sleep.
From Massa we marched on September 13th to Bura, which
also lies on the left bank of the Tana. Here we arrived as
early as eleven o'clock in the morning. I sent to ask the
Sultan, on the opposite side, to come across, which he imme-
diately did ; and, early as the hour was, the old gentleman
was considerably heated ; in fact, he and his whole following
were completely drunk at eleven in the morning. They laughed
incessantly, and made the most absurd remarks. Con- ^n excited
sequently, I sent the Sultan back again, and pointed assembly,
out to him that he should despatch to me some one who was
not drunk. So, after an hour, his brother appeared, and made
excuses for the lofty potentate, who had been enjoying his
early pombe, and lamented that the Sultan was in general too
much addicted to that liquor. Unfortunately, I had to point
out to the brother that he was in no better condition than the
Sultan ; but as he replied by naively declaring that he was the
least intoxicated man in the whole village, I retained him in
my company, with an intimation that he would have to ^^^ g^^^.^^
remain in mv camp until the Wapokomo had brought as a
■^ ^ hostage.
food across for my column. There were, it appears,
some difficulties connected with this ; accordingly, in the
afternoon I despatched some soldiers to Bura, which, however.
116 .VEir LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
only resulted in setting the whole populous element scampering.
Onlj' the servants of the Sultan's brother, wishing to rescue
their master out of my hands, towards evening sent a few
boat-loads of maize, for which I paid. As my repeated re-
quests were ineflfectual in drawing from their forest retreats the
Wapokomo, who must by that time have got over their fit of
intoxication, I found myself compelled to borrow a fine large
miau without their express permission ; but, as a pledge, I left
behind me at Bura one of the small miaus I had brought
with me.
The question of provisioning began to be a serious one for
me, as I knew that I was close to the entrance to the steppe,
stron ^^^ ^^^^ ^ must get together a supply for a few days
measures for my people, to enable me to get to Oda-Boru-Ruva.
for procur- . .
ingpro- On the toUowmg day, at Ischarra, I accordingly saw
visions, iiayself necessitated, inasmuch as I was sufficiently
acquainted with the cowardly tactics of the Wapokomo, to take
into custody all the three chiefs of the place immediately on
my arrival, to detain them until sufficient corn should be
brought in for my column. Here I heard for the first time
that hordes of Somalis were roving in the surrounding country.
The Wapokomo told me that a few days previously some
Somalis had visited them, and plundered them completely out.
TheGaiia At Ischarra we first came into the regions of the
regions. Galla language. Until we arrived there, the men of
higher rank among the W^apokomo had always talked a little
broken Kiswahili ; the language of the Gallas now took its
place. From olden times the Gallas ruled here, who have now
been thrust back upon Oda-Boru-Ruva. I managed, with the
utmost exertion, to procure sustenance for us at least for one
day, and also to obtain a little meat for the morrow. In view
of the danger from the Somalis, I arranged a strict sentry
service for the night, with great fires before the camp, which
were kept up all night long ; however, no Somali made his
xidori, on appearance among us. On September 15th we reached
the Tana, gifjoj-i, the last Settlement of the Wapokomo on the
lower course of the Tana. I consider this place as forming
ON TO THE UNINHABITED STEPPE. 117
the point of separation between the lower and middle course of
the river. The inhabitants complained that they had been eaten
out of house and home by the English expedition of Mr. Smith,
and gave me more accurate details on the wrecking of the
English expedition by Somalis, which had occurred at a point
somewhat above this place. Already at Massa I had received
into my column a few porters who had fled there before the
catastrophe happened, and had learned the fact that Beported
Mr. Smith had been surprised and beaten by a horde smith* "^
of Somalis. Here I heard that in broad day, at three expedition,
in the afternoon, thirty Somalis had managed actually to defeat
the English expedition of one hundred and sixty men armed
with guns, and to hurl it back upon Kidori. This seemed to
me not so much to evidence the efficiency of the Somalis as the
miserable spirit in the English expedition. For me, it had the
effect of making me much more cautious in arranging the
details of management of my expedition.
At Kidori I only succeeded in provisioning my people to
a very small extent ; I had therefore to trust to my fortune,
and strike into the steppe without a supply of corn, scarcity of
Thereby the position of the expedition became a very s"^""^-
difficult one. In this steppe, which we entered on September
16th, we certainly found here and there settlements of hunting
Mboni ; but of these people themselves we nowhere caught
sight. There was something quite unearthly about the fashion
in M'hich they were acquainted with every one of our move-
ments, to the smallest detail, without our even once getting to
see them. The Mboni is swift-footed as the antelope Nature of
he pursues, and keen-sighted as the falcon he brings ^^^ Mbom.
down from the air with his bow and arrow. I had taken two
guides with me from Kidori, who were originally to have led
me only as far as Oda. So soon as I ascertained that I could
not procure other guides onward from this place, I saw myself
compelled to put them in chains, and carry them with me
through the steppe. Though they were not acquainted with
the route by land across the steppe, they had several times
gone up the river, and knew its bendings. By hard severity
118
xr:]]' ijciir <>x i>mik afiuca.
I effected thus nuicli in a few days, tliat they at least only
made such assertions ;is they were sure of bein<i able to verify.
As regards the road itself,
[ was entirely unable to
make enquiry in an_v other
direction.
At Oda an incident hap-
pened that is characteristic
of the spirit existinij; in my
expedition, and may there-
fore l)e related by me.
Hamiri had, as was quite
right, the command of the
boats; but through his whim-
sical egotism, that made hiii]
arrogate everything to him-
self, a bitter hatred had heeu
gradually aroused in the
whole column against hira.
Hamiri A Mangema bearer,
and^pembo- Pembomoto, had
quarrel. gQ^e tO the plaCB
where the boats lay, to wash
himself. Hamiri w;iuted to
turn him away, and without
further preface the two were
engaged in a violent light,
in which their chief weapons,
heirribly enough, were their
teeth. Pembomoto bit
Hamiri in the breast, and
Hamiri toue Pembomoto's
(■yebrows from his forehead.
Thereupon the Mangemas
came to me, and demanded
that Hamiri should be punished. \>'hen I caused Hamiri, and
Pembomoto also, to be put in chains, they suddenly rose up, and
On the Taxa.
FIGHT BETWEEN PEMBOMOTO AND HAillRI. 119
threatened that if I would not punish Hamiri, they themselves
would attack him and cut him down. The spokesman of the
Mangemas was Nogola, a demagogic champion of the first order,
who terrorised his people, and at that time still kept the whole
column in fear of him. At that moment the question was
whether Nogola or I was to be master of the expedition ; and I
met his impudent words by ordering all the people to fall in,
stationing the Somalis with loaded repeating rifles around the
porters, having the latter deprived of their guns, and Nogola
put in chains. This settled the affair. From that day Nogola's
credit declined rapidly, and the recurrence of a riot such as
that of September 16th was out of the question. Here „
Hussein once more rejoiced me by a very neat pro- idea of
position, and one that is characteristic of the Somalis. ''"^ "*'
"Master," said he, "dost thou wish Nogola dead.P Then, do
not have him shot before the porters, or they will all run away.
Simply tell him he is to march with the camels to-morrow, and
then we will shoot him down from behind." As a distinguishing
mark of this proposal, I must add that Hussein and Nogola
were very good friends, and continued so during the whole
further course of the expedition. Hussein could never rightly
understand why, on my part, I declined this exceedingly
practical offer of his.
On Tuesday, September 17th, the real difficulties of the
march through the steppe began. In the afternoon, at half-past
one, after an eight hours' march, all steaming and a weary
glowing with heat, we reached, instead of the camping- "'^"^'='^-
place traced out for us, a primitive forest, without finding water.
I now perseveringly looked for the traces of the English
caravan, which, after being surprised by the Somalis, had
advanced again on this side of the river ; and I knew for a cer-
tainty that if we did not find the English spoor on this Tuesday,
we should undoubtedly be compelled, wanting food as we did, to
turn back. Therefore I left to Herr von Tiedemann the com-
mand of the expedition, which presently found water, and I
betook myself, with Rukua and Nogola, to the search for
the English road. At about two o'clock we succeeded in
120 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
finding traces of footsteps. So soon as I had found this, I
sent Rukua back into the camp to inform Herr von
Tr8.cfis of
the English Tiedemann that I should follow the English traces
expedition, ^.^^ j came to their camping -place by the water, and
I desired that something to eat and a blanket might be sent
to me.
It is quite unnecessary to give here the description of a
march through the steppe, with the sun in the zenith and the
More torments of thirst. This has been very often done, and
ttnraih^ the reader would after all not get a clear conception
the steppe, from a description. After close and repeated observa-
tion of my own sensations, I have come to the conclusion that
the tortures of thirst bear the closest resemblance to the torments
of suffocation. Perhaps the proportion between them may be
thus stated : the torment of suffocation is in the same measure
more intense, as the time required for dying by thirst is longer
than that for death by suffocation. It is, in truth, a fearful
torment. On September 17th I had to experience it in all its
anguish. We continued marching till sunset, and it was only
just before the coming on of darkness that I succeeded in
Fire signal breaking through the thicket towards the river, and
at the river.j-eaching the bank. To give my servants who might
follow me an indication of the way, I ordered Nogola to set
trees on fire ; and soon the sea of flame, visible for miles,
towered above the steppe, mirrored in the flood of the Tana ;
and with its roaring and hissing voice singing a mighty slumber
song to me, as, weary to death, with my boots under my head
for a pillow, and my loaded double-barrelled rifle resting on my
arm, I stretched myself to rest. Towards nine o'clock I heard
shots fired at a distance. I answered them, and half an horn-
later I was surrounded by a few of my servants, who brought
me some food. Herr von Tiedemann had even packed up one
of the last half bottles of sekt. With what comfort I set about
the business of eating and drinking, only those will understand
to whom such situations are known. The feeling of comfort,
through contrast of the present circumstances with the past
endurance, is converted into sauciness and joviality. Next
'"^
¥
wi
^
STRICT REGULATIONS FOR THE MARCH. 121
morning at five o'clock I sent Nogola back to the expedition to
serve as guide. I myself once more followed the
English traces. At ten o'clock I came to the camping- track of the
place of that expedition by the river, and here i^"^^"**-
awaited the arrival of my column that was marching from the
south-east. This day we continued our march till three in the
afternoon.
Such a journey through the steppe is always hot, and as a
rule also dusty, but it has great attractions for the leader of
an expedition. Beasts of burden and men pass along
1^ o Severity of
With equal pace and uninterruptedly, inasmuch as the steppe
latter also do not see much temptation in the shadow- ^°^'"^^^^-
less plain to fall out of the ranks and rest. When, therefore,
the caravan is once set in motion, at least towards the after-
noon, it lies entirely in the will and pleasure of the leader in
what direction it shall bend its course, or where it shall halt.
The preparations for the march used now to begin regularly at
five in the morning, and at about a quarter to six the porters,
under Tiedemann, would start, while it was generally six before
the camels and donkeys could follow. I left the camping-
ground when the last beast and the last man had gone. „
~ _ ~ Theroutiue
Then I would remain behind till the word was passed of march-
iuff.
and the steppe reached ; thereupon, as a rule, I rode
past the loaded animals, to get the porters in sight. Generally
I would turn back once more, to let the camels defile past me.
Towards midday I was accustomed to leave these behind me,
and gradually to advance to the head of the column. Such had
been the rule of march under ordinary circumstances.
Matters assumed another form now on our march through
the steppe, where I had to make out the way and take the head of
the column. This steppe would, but for the Tana, be alto-
gether untraversable for an expedition with porters ; it is only
the Tana, which is here entirely without tributaries, that sources of
furnishes the life-giving element of water. That it was ^^^ ^*''^-
able to roll such ample masses of water through the sandy
plain to the Indian Ocean, made me already at that time form
an estimate of the great volume of the sources from which it
122 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
gushes forth. The Tana receives its waters from the same
plateaus from which the Nile issues forth to flow northwards.
In fact, in its whole conformation it may he called a Nile on a
small scale. Like the larger river, it has carried itsownarahle
land into the desert, and, as with the Nile, the middle course of
the Tana has the real steppe character which I have described.
Through this steppe we travelled in a march of five days.
It was a march for life or death. After I had slaughtered the
last ox, on September 18th, we were for three days
Tfirriblfi
suffering without food of any kind, and were exposed, besides,
from want. ^^ ^^^ danger of perishing of thirst. On the 17th we
reached the region of Korro-korro, which we passed in one
day, as we were in continual danger of losing the English
spoor, finding no way to the river, and succumbing to thirst. I
now made my people march from five in the morning until
sunset.
So we went on uninterruptedly on September 18th, 19th,
and 20th. The worst day was September 21st, when I marched
at the head of the expedition from early in the morning until
half-past six in the evening, when at last, in the darkness, I
made my way to the Tana, and not only found water, but also
the prospect of obtaining provisions next day. On September
21st, a Saturday, I found the first settlement of the
Arrival at
theGaiia Gallas in Odagalla. Herr von Tiedemann, with the
emen . jj^g^j^j-j^y ^f ^jjg porters, did not reach the camp at
all on this occasion. He was compelled to pass the night in
the steppe, amid frightful torments of thirst, although on that
night, between Saturday and Sunday, I had the whole forest by
the river set on fire, so that the flames blazed up to the firma-
ment, as a signal from us to the Gallas that the expedition of
the Germans had arrived. It was not until towards noon on
the Sunday that Herr von Tiedemann arrived ; all the rest of
the day, stragglers were coming in. In the morning I had
already succeeded in procuring some maize from the island
opposite us, and here, to my regret, I had again been obliged
to put in practice the expedient of chaining the Sultan when
he paid his visit, because otherwise my column would have
ODA-BOlir-RrVA TN SIGHT.
12?,
rim a great risk of actually perishius; tlirouoh hunger. In
the afternoon I ^vas also fortunate enough to get a purchase
of hens from a neighbouring villasje, so that Herr von
■^ ' '- . Beginning
Tiedemann and I were able once more to refresh our- of better
selves with iiesh meat. I remained at Odagalla through- "^^'
out iNIonda}' the 23rd, because one of mj" people had not made
his wa}" in from the steppe, — a certain Amdurabi, who carried
the load containing my private blankets. He appeared at last
on September 26th, emaciated and three parts dead, at my camp
at Oda-Boru-Ruva. On Tuesday, September 24.th, while it
was yet early, 1 broke up my camp Triumphal
at Odagalla ; and now, with waving od^-soru-
flag and beat of drum, we went ^'^^^
forward to the great Galla sultanate of
Oda-Boru-Ruva, seven English miles
distant. Towards eleven o'clock we
found the path through the primeval
forest to the river, and half an hour
later avb saw for the first time before
■ us, on the other side of the Tana, the
rich plantations and the villages of
the Gallas of Oda-Boru-Ruva.
1777/ THE GALLAi< IN ODA-BOIW-
RUVA.
" Within tliy bosom are thy fateful stars."
SCHILLEE.
TOWARDS noon I encamped
with my caravan in the prime-
val forest of the Tana, opposite the
settlements of the Gallas, Avhich
were seen gleamina; trom the o])po-
site side. \Ye had the pleasure —
the first occasion for a long time
— of once more seeing maize
plantations. Bnt the thing to he
done was to establish communica-
tions with the opposite shore ot
the river, which was a matter of
-• difficulty, as my boats had not
Scouts sent yet arrived. I therefore sent
across the ^
■ .- river. some Souialis across the river,
which is tolerably broad at this point, and they succeeded
in getting possession of a boat, which they brought over to
THE GALLAS OF ODA-BORU-RUVA. 125
US. They reported that the whole district was deserted. I
sent the boat back once more, and made them bring two
more Galla boats across. I now crossed with a few soldiers
and my servants to the left bank of the Tana, leaving the
actual column behind under the guard of Herr von Tiede-
mann. As I could not at all tell how the Gallas would
behave at our arrival, I at once ordered one of the boats to the
maize-fields, to have it filled with grain, and then q^ the
taken to the camping-place we had yet to find out. "^^^^ "^«'^-
Meanwhile we rowed past a broad fork of the river, followed
the southern arm, and at last landed, after an hour and a half,
at a little village on the right hand, where I saw a few people.
This was a slave settlement of the Gallas, and consisted chiefly
of Suahelis of the sultanate of Witu, who had been kidnapped
by the Gallas and dragged to this place. It happened by
chance that Bin Omar, whom I had with me, had formerly
been a very good friend of one of these slaves, named An old
Mandutto, and at once resumed his old relations with ance^^^'^*
him. Under a mighty tree a bench had been fixed, '^e'^og'^iBed.
and here I sat down, at once sending back my boats to bring
more men across ; and I sent, moreover, an invitation to the
Sultan of the Gallas, asking him to give himself the trouble
to come to me, that we might consult about our quarters.
They brought me fruit and maize cobs to eat, and apparently
the Suaheli were much rejoiced at the arrival of our expedition.
An hour had passed before Sultan Hugo appeared with his
suite. He was a little man, with a very cunning look, dressed
in a kind of brown toga gown, and decked out with a -^^ suitan
copper chain round his neck, and thick bracelets of the "^ "^aiias.
same material. In his hand he carried a lance, according to
the custom of the Gallas.
These Gallas are, as a rule, of an imposing appearance.
Tall and of slender build, they exhibit the same type I had
formerly admu-ed in the Somalis. The shape of the face is
entirely different from that of the negro, and in its narrow,
delicately-cut features reminds one entirely of the Caucasian.
Their dark eyes have a melancholy look in them, but begin to
126 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
sparkle when their hearts are sth-red by passion. The Gallas
belong to the handsomest peoples of the earth, and have some-
thing very noble in their carriage. In their language
Description ^ •' . loi i- -ii
of the the}' have a close aflanity to the bomalis, with whom,
Gauas. nevertheless, they live in deadly enmity. Wherever a
Somali and a Galla may meet, they stand towards each other in
a state of warfare. The Somalis themselves say that the two
had formerly been one nation, but parted, because the Gallas
remained faithful to the old national belief, while the Somalis
adopted the teaching of Mahomet. The Gallas of Oda-Boru-
Ruva, especially, belong manifestly to the race of the Borani
Gallas that still ruled in the north, but were in the course of
centuries carried down by the Somali flood into the country of
the Bararetta Gallas, from whence, according to their own
assertion, they were again chased towards the north by the
Wakamba. They had now been settled for a long time on the
great island of the Tana, which they called Oda-Boru-Ruva, — ■
Oda signifying fork of the river ; Boru, to-morrow morning ;
The Wapo- and Ruva, rain ; — and from hence they held under their
komo. dominion the Wapokomo, who are seated along the
Tana to the neighbourhood of Hameje. These Wapokomo have,
indeed, still their own Sultan, who has his place in the councils
of the Gallas, but are obliged to do menial service for the
ruling Gallas caste, especially in the matter of boat navigation.
Besides this, as I have already mentioned, the Gallas keep
slaves, who have to do their work in the fields, and other labour
of the kind. These slaves are settled in special villages, and
also hold possession of some arable land for themselves and
their families; but they are never in a position to accumulate
property, because what they have is regularly taken from them
by their masters, the Gallas. To all appearance the two races
lived in a good understanding with each other, the intelligent
Mandutto being the representative of Suaheli interests with the
The Sua- Dallas ; but a bitter hatred had arisen in secret between
heiiofthe the governing race and the governed, and this was
Tana . o ?
destined to have a very remarkable influence on the
fortunes of our expedition. The Suaheli of the Lower Tana
THE SULTAN HUGO AND HIS MEN. 127
considered themselves as really the superior race, and gnashed
their teeth at the haughtiness with which the proud Gallas
treated them. They were especially enraged at the fact that
the young Galla warriors seized their wives and daughters
at their pleasure. Among the sufferers from this state of
things was Mandutto, with whom I soon entered into closer
relations, and who afterwards became a valuable member of
my expedition.
Taking all things together, the Gallas of Oda-Boru-Ruva
are in a very constrained position, threatened on all sides. In
the north they have to defend themselves against the Somalis ;
in the west they fight against the Wandorobo, and from the
south-west the Wakamba make raids upon their herds.
According to my estimate, the Sultan Hugo had, in the position of
year 1889, still about one thousand two hundred warriors *''* "^^n^^-
at his disposal. " Look at my warriors," he once said to me,
when I made it a reproach that the once powerful race had re-
treated to this island of the Tana ; " only look at my warriors !
Once they numbered many thousands ; they have now shrunk to
hundreds. In every direction we have to fight, and I can see
the day coming when the foot of a Galla shall no longer speed
through the steppes on the Tana." Thus these Gallas resemble the
tribes of North American Indians — stubborn in resistance, but
destined to perish ; and there is a mournful strain in their fate.
From the outset I had a strong S3"mpathetic feeling for this war-
like and heavily-oppressed race — these proud men with the
melancholy eyes, and the reserved, pensive-looking girls, whose
outward appearance forcibly recalled the type of the gipsy women.
This interest was not extinguished in me when, later „^ .
° ' Their per-
on, I was obliged, through the development of events sonai ap-
and the hard necessity of self-preservation, to use p^*'^*'"'*'
forcible measures against the Gallas ; and it had a great share
in deciding the position I took up with regard to the tribe,
after the combat I had to wage with them in the night of
October 6th.
The settlements and villages of the Gallas spread them-
selves out in a pleasing manner over Oda-Boru-Ruva. The
1-28
xr.iv Tjanr ox dark Africa.
foot -wanders there as through a garden, maize field after
maize field ajipears, interspersed with banana plantations and
hatatn, fields. The houses are certainly small and
Beauty of . . •
their round, after the manner of haycocks, but they are
conn ry. ^^\^,.^^^ j^^(| jj^^at. Oda-Boru-Ruva had its origin in the
alluvium of the Tana, and is an oasis in the midst of the steppe,
which se]iarates it towards the east from the cultivated strips of
land of the Lower Tana, and towards the south, Avest, and nortli,
Tana Landscape, near Oda-Boru-Euva.
from Wapokonin, Massais, and Somalis. Here every kind of cul-
tivation would be possible ; for instance, the native tobacco is
quite suited to European taste, and was smoked by us for a long
time. As the river affords the means of a cheap communica-
tion with the coast, so also the fmitfulness oi" the soil and
the enchanting loveliness of the landscape directly invite the
foundation of a station, the more so as the Gallas themselves
declari' that from this part a trade in ivory is already carried
on with the elephant countries in the west, and that it seems
capable of ready development.
FIRST NEGOTIATION WITH SULTAN HUGO. 129
In bold sweeping curves the Tana rolls along by Oda-
Boru-Ruva, and the eye roves delighted over the river, whose
shores are covered either with plantations or with course of
stately woods, and which, besides Oda-Boru-Ruva, *^« '^^''^■
forms a number of larger and smaller islands at this part. A
breath of sweet poetry rests upon the landscape, and invites
the spirit to dreamy and abstracted contemplation.
When, on September 24th, I entered into my first negotia-
tions with Sultan Hugo, I could not suppose that this sunny
and poetic region would very soon be the scene of the first
serious battle, for the German Emin Pasha Expedition. Sultan
Hugo at the very beginning gave permission for my expedition
to take up its quarters opposite the island of Oda-Boru-
If 6Grotis>-
Ruva, on a place that should be assigned to us. He tions with
also said that he would take counsel with the elders of ^^^ ^^^^^
the tribe, to open a regular market for the provisioning of my
people. Among the Gallas, the Sultan cannot by himself
decide any important question ; he is rather a chosen magis-
trate than a hereditary ruler. Although it would appear that,
in general, the lineal succession is maintained, the Gallas are
not bound to observe it, and the Sultan is even liable to be
deposed if he administers his ofiice badly. The decision is
always with the council of elders, which also pronounces
sentence in cases of heavy crimes committed against members
of the community. It was to a council of this sort that
Sultan Hugo at once betook himself, in the interior of the
island, promising to send me boats, to bring me to the landing-
place that should be assigned to me. For further explanation
he left with me Gall-Galla, a Galla who had been stolen in his
childhood from the Arabs, and had long lived as a slave in the
sultanate of Witu. He had gone through an adventurous
career, and had lived for years among the Kavallala Somalis ;
in consequence, besides knowing the Galla language, he Avas
master of the Arabic, Kiswahili, and Kisomali, which was of
great value for us. At my wish, he at once sent messengers to
my column in the forest, to bring them to the landing-place
appointed for them.
130 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
During this time I was waiting for the boats the Sultan had
promised ; and with the two boats at my disposal, I caused
about twelve men to be carried across the river to me. The
boats promised by Hugo not arriving, I declared, towards three
o'clock, that I would march down the river bank towards the
island till I came to the point opposite the landing-place, and
then the Gallas should set me across. The Gallas refused to
do this, and I had to threaten them with war, to avoid damaging
Difficulties our positiou at the outset, and to carry ray point. For
and delays, three-quarters of an hour we marched under Gall-
Galla's guidance up the island, and past the settlements of the
Gallas. We were not conducted into any of these. At the
entrances there were always standing fierce troops of Galla
warriors, who gazed with hostile, threatening looks upon the
strangers. At length, after passing several Wapokomo villages,
we reached a clear space by the Tana river, from which, to my
great joy, I could already see my people and camels on the
opposite shore. Under a giant tree, with which I was destined
to become much better acquainted in the course of the next few
weeks, I aM'aited the boat, which soon carried me across to my
column on the opposite side. The boat laden with maize, which
I had ordered in the morning, had already arrived, and I was
accordingly able to distribute food to my people at once. But
a really joyous state of mind was not to be attained.
Our camping-place was a burnt-out steppe, from which the
wind continually whirled up black masses of ashes. The view
upon the Tana was certainly a charming one, and the landscape
in the background presented a striking and yet pleasant wood-
land scene ; but I found immediately on my arrival that the
locking of our ordnance would not act, and this present case
at once suggested serious anticipations as to what might be
further in store for the expedition. Here I had to wait for the
Waiting second column under Lieutenant-Captain Rust. Sup-
second pose a misfortune happened to it, and it did not join
column, n^gp -^Tg^g jjy^ perhaps Oda-Boru-Ruva the ultimate
point of our German Emin Pasha Expedition altogether ? Yes,
for the moment itself I was in grave embarrassment. My boats,
THE CAJIP BY THE RIVER. 131
with the few articles of barter which I possessed, had not
arrived. Would they be sufficient to secure for us so much as
a lengthened, peaceful stay at Oda-Boru-Ruva ? — Such were
my cogitations as, sitting on a chest, I ordered the camp to
be pitched.
Towards half-past five o'clock Sultan Hugo suddenly made
his appearance, with some hundreds of his warriors, on the
opposite bank, and summoned me to come to a conference under
the above-mentioned great tree. I made a few soldiers step
into the boat, and rowed across to Hugo. But these little Tana
canoes are so rickety, and my people were so unskilled in
managing them, that before we could reach the opposite shore
our boat was upset, and I had to proceed, swimming, to the
conference' with the Gallas ; a somewhat comic episode, which
was frequently repeated during the next weeks, and lost us a
load of goods and several guns. When I emerged from the
water among the Gallas, dripping with wet. Sultan Hugo an-
nounced to me that the Gallas were ready to open a market
for us for our necessaries, and that he personally intended to
give me some fowls. But when I asked him to send g^^^^^
me one at once, as I had not yet eaten anything that Hugo's coa-
.,,. 11-.. li cessions.
day, he considered it would be time enough to-morrow
morning ; and I could not induce him to change his opinion.
Thus it happened that on this evening we had to satisfy our
hunger on boiled maize and butter, and that the newly-awakened
feeling arose in my mind, that perhaps the peace policy I had
taken up was not, after all, the right one in the face of this
arrogant tribe, but that we should perhaps for the first time
have to resort to an appeal to arms, to demonstrate whether it
was necessary to starve, when the land produced such a store of
food for man and beast. I determined, under all the circum-
stances, to assume for my part a higher tone towards these
proud sons of the steppe ; and next morning, when the Sultan
appeared again for a conference beneath the tree, I sent Herr
von Tiedemann to represent me.
Herr von Tiedemann was to offer the Sultan a few presents,
tokens of friendship from me ; but only on condition that the
132 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Sultan, on his side, offered me proportionate gifts. This was
done. I received a few boat-loads of grain, and bananas, and
Change of Several fowls, so that on this day, for the first time, we
policy. could at least begin again to take our regular meals.
To-day also, to my great satisfaction, my boats with the articles
of barter came in ; and, for the time, we should have obtained
a regular supply of provisions, by purchase from the Gallas, if
they had at once fulfilled their promise of opening a market for
us. To induce them to fulfil the obligation they had undertaken,
and, above all, to secure ourselves from the danger that con-
tinually threatened us, of perishing from hunger, I caused another
Its success, foray for grain to be undertaken, on the following night,
by three boats, under Herr von Tiedemann. It was completely
successful, and caused the Gallas to proceed with the opening of
the market without further delay.
Here in Oda-Boru-Ruva, half a year before, the Englishman,
Mr. Pigott, had stayed with his expedition, concerning whose for-
tunes I had heard particulars already on the day of my arrival.
According to the account given by the Gallas, Mr. Pigott had
attempted to push forward in the north of the Tana. But when
he had seen the settlements of the Galla tribes to the north he
had become apprehensive, and had turned back. Ac-
andhis cordiug to Other accounts, which seemed to me more
expe 1 ion. gj.gjjj^|j2g^ ]yjj._ pigott was reported to have come upon
desert steppes in the north, and had turned back for that reason.
Then he had attempted an advance southward from the Tana,
but had found no food there, and consequently had been com-
pelled to march back to Mombassa. Mr. Pigott was said to
have founded two stations among the Gallas, and to have left a
garrison behind in one of them ; but this garrison had betaken
itself down the river ten days ago. Mr. Smith and his expedi-
tion had arrived about a week before, after the English garrison
had already gone. He had lived there for a few days ; but when
Mr. Smith's the uows Came to Oda-Boru-Ruva of our approach,
expedition. ^^ Smith had one morning quite suddenly gone, and
he, also, had marched back through Ukumba to Mombassa.
The Gallas added that there was no connection for an expedition
i i
COUNTERACTING MEASURES. 133
towards the west, because no people lived there, and nothing
but the broad steppe was before us. If one marched further
towards the west, one would get into the mountains, which we
could already see when the sun was going down, rising here and
there on the horizon.
According to the London agreement, the Tana was to be
the boundary of the territory of English interests ; therefore the
English had no kind of right to establish stations northward of
the Tana. Mr. Pigott had, notwithstanding, done this, wherein
I was neither able nor desirous to alter anything. But in order
to get the spirit of the London agreement acted upon here, I
began on my side systematically to work at bringing the Theiondon
Gallas under German sovereignty, and to induce the ^s'^eement.
Sultan and the elders of the tribes, as an outward sign of this,
to solemnly hoist our flag in the north of the Tana. These
matters occupied me very seriously during the next days, and
led to a very favourable result for us.
It was on September 28th, at two in the afternoon, that I
met the Sultan Hugo and the great men of the Gallas, under
the before -mentioned tree on the further side of the Tana, at a
great consultation, to bring the question to a definite Great con-
conclusion. I sent several boat-loads of soldiers in withsuitan
advance, then I myself followed, and gradually had ^~so.
my whole force, with the exception of the camp sentries, ferried
to the island. I had our two carriers' chairs taken across for
Herr von Tiedemann and myself, and on these we at once took
our places. Besides Sultan Hugo, three sultans of the Wapo-
komo had made their appearance, to take part in the delibera-
tions. From the Sultan Hugo, with whom I had discussed the
affair beforehand, I had heard that there was among the Gallas
a strong opposition to my proposals, and I therefore made up
my mind for an interesting assembly. Beside and behind Hugo
reclined the warriors of the Gallas, with whom my Somalis
exchanged looks of defiance. The hatred between the ^hreaten-
two races was so strong, that several times I had the i^s^oi
greatest trouble to prevent a sudden outbreak and blood-
shed. Every moment the Gallas were starting up, brandishing
134 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
their spears, to rush upon the Somalis, or my Somalis were
bringing their musket stocks to their shoulders to shoot down
the Gallas. To prevent this, Sultan Hugo recommended me
to send hack mj^ soldiers to the opposite shore ; but in view
of the many hundreds of Galla warriors assembled there, I
could not make up my mind to this. While we were negotiat-
ing, there was a continual streaming to and fro of the people,
so that the whole produced a very lively effect.
I opened the proceedings with a short address, in which I
asked the Gallas if they wished to have peace or war with me.
Thereupon Sultan Hugo and the elders of the Wapokomo
expressed their opinion at great length something to the follow-
ing effect : " We know that thou art a great man, and hast
, much power, and that thou mayst have still more.
Fair words ^ ' •'
andpeacefui We have also heard that more Germans are following
thee, and will soon arrive here. Thou art as God,
compared with us, and we wish for peace with thee. There
have been Englishmen here, too. But we know that the
Englishmen are quite little, and thou art very great. Thou art
as God. Give us peace, great Lord ; we will do everything
that thou desirest." To this I replied as follows, after the
general sentiment of the peace party among the Gallas had
been thus declared : " I have been sent hither by the great
nation of the Germans (' Wadutschi'). W^e dwell in the
middle of Europe, and are the strongest of all the nations of
the earth. You know the English and you know us ; you can
judge for yourselves which of us is the greater. But we make
war upon those who attack us first ; we overthrow them and
kill them ; while we give peace to all those who wish to live
peaceably together with the Germans. We protect the weak ;
we cast down the strong, if they rise up against us. I am
Expiana- "ow Only passiug through the country of the Gallas,
in'ientionY ^^*^ ^"^ g°i°S ^0 march far to the west, through the
andde- Massais, to a great German who lives alone in the
maads. ■in n a /> •
middle of Africa ; and in this, if you wish to be our
friends, you must help me. Westward of this is a great moun-
tain, which is white ; to that I wish to go first, and what I
SUBmSSION OF THE GALL AS. 135
want of you is, that you give me guides thither. That is the
mountain Kenia, in the land of the Massais ; thither I want
guides from you. I know that on the way thither there is no
food for us, therefore I want food from you, and hoats to carry
it up the river. If you will help me in these two things, I am
ready here to hoist our flag, which the Somalia know very well,
and which will prevent them from attacking you. Here is a
writing of the Somalis, that I will leave here with you. It is
from the Sheriff Hussein. In case the Somalis should come,
show it to them, and they will he your friends."
Long discussions now arose, after the Gallas had declared
themselves willing to grant my requests generally. Twelve
hoatmen were provided for me at once, whose names I entered,
and who only asked permission to go to their homes and
take leave of their families, before removing into my camp.
Three guides were also brought before me, who were to show
me the way over Hamege, and from thence to the Kenia. It
was five o'clock when these matters were settled, and I laid
before them the treaty, which, in pursuance of the unanimous
decision of the popular assembly. Sultan Hugo signed next morn-
ing in the name of the Gallas. The treaty is worded thus : —
" The following treaty is this day concluded between Dr.
Carl Peters and the Galla Sultan Hugo :
" Dr. Peters acknowledges as Sultan's territory the Treaty
land on the Tana, from Massa to the Kenia. suiu^n an/
" Sultan Hugo places himself, with all his territory, ^^- ^^t®"^^-
under the protection of Dr. Peters. Dr. Carl Peters will endea-
vour to obtain for the Galla sultanate the friendship of His
Majesty the German Emperor.
"Nevertheless this treaty is not dependent upon the
granting of the protection of the German Empire or upon its
ratification by any European power.
" Sultan Hugo cedes to Dr. Carl Peters the right of working
the country above and below the ground in every direction.
" This right especially includes the exclusive commercial
monopoly, the right of establishing plantations, and the exclu-
sive mining monopoly.
136 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
"If gold is found, Sultan Hugo is to have a quarter of the
net profit from the production of it.
" Dr. Carl Peters is to be supreme lord in the country of the
Gallas, to command the armed forces, and judge the people.
" This is done for the blessing and welfare of the Galla land.
"After several long conferences, and after its contents have
been deliberated, and unanimously resolved upon, in a great
public popular meeting by the Gallas in general, this treaty is
formally concluded this day by Sultan Hugo and Dr. Peters.
"Dr. Peters.
" Hugo's mark.
"Von Tiedemann.
Mark of Hugo Valogalgal, brother
and Prime Minister of the Sultan.
The Interpreter's mark."
" Witnesses
This treaty was accepted amid lively acclamations, and was
signed by us the next morning. Meanwhile my people pro-
vided a tall stem of a tree, and dug a hole, to raise the German
flag with all due ceremony. I considered it more correct to have
the actual business of hoisting done by the Gallas themselves.
, So the Sultan and his great men had to accommodate
Kaismg of
the German themselves to fastening up the flagstaff and running
*^' up the flag. When the sun disappeared in the west
behind the mysterious chains of mountains, which, according to
the opinion we held at that time, bounded the Massai territories,
the black, white, and red flag waved for the first time in the
evening breeze over the Upper Tana, saluted with three volleys
by the whole of my people, while the slim forms of the Galla
warriors danced around it. That this whole procedure made
a deep impression upon the people is proved, among other
circumstances, by the fact that at the^end of December, two
months after my departure, Herr Oskar Borchert found the
flag still there, and regarded by the Gallas with a kind
of superstitious awe.
During the following days, I had the opportunity of making
nearer acquaintance with the lovely island of Oda-Boru-Ruva
THE EXPEDITION A2I0NG THE GALL AS. 137
and with the peculiar manner of the Gallas. Unfortunately, on
September 29th, Herr von Tiedemann fell so sick, whether of an
affection of the spleen or the liver we did not know, that I was
most seriously alarmed for his life, and made him the
proposition that he should go back to the coast Herr von
in our great boat. Thus for the weeks that were next ''^'®^^"*°"-
to come I was to depend entirely on myself; and the powerful
magic of solitude is thrown over the recollections of these
sunny days of Oda-Boru-Ruva. Sunny days they certainly
were. Between two and three o'clock the thermometer, in
the deepest shade, regularly attained a height of 45° (centi-
grade thermometer). The heat was now and again simply
almost intolerable, but the ground was dry, and there were
no real cases of fever in the expedition. Of an afternoon,
when the sun was sinking, I was in the habit of „ .
° Sojourn
having my horse saddled, and making excursions among the
into the wide and wonderful steppe. I would gallop
for two or three miles towards the west, to a hill, from
which the eye could range far to the dark mountains behind
which our destiny would have to be fulfilled. When evening
drew on, and the moon shone down upon the dreamy landscape,
I was accustomed to sit in front of my tent, and listen to the
rushing of the Tana, bringing down mysterious tidings of the
countries beyond the mountains. A deep peace and sweet
repose lay spread over this region in such tropical nights.
"When Orion flames exactly over us, or the Southern jj^^g^.^^^.
Cross stands in the heavens, and the whole firmament picai
glitters with the sparkling of the stars, the heart
trembles with awe at the Eternal, and the Godhead is vividly
brought before the soul. In face of the wonderful vicissitudes
of this expedition, the heart, from a natural necessity, reverted
more and more to this last source of comfort ; and herein was
the sublimity of these lonely hours.
That we might not altogether waste our time in idleness,
I began already on September 29th the task of founding a
German settlement on the island of Oda-Boru-Ruva. In the
course of the next fortnight a neat little house arose on the
138
XEW LIGHT ON JiAUK AFRICA.
opposite shore, thatehed with straw aiKl Iniilt oC wood ; it con-
tained three rt)oms. A strong fence ran roiuid tlie little building
,„ (in three sides, and on the fourth, the river front, I had
New settle- ' .
ment. The;,, laudiuu-place made for the boats, i his settlement,
Heydt"' to which I liad a shed for goods added, 1 called " Yon
^°''''' der Heydt House." I had caused it to be erected
especially with reiereiice to the secoud colunu), whose arrival
I expected, and in the hope of establishing a route lor traffic
from here to the Baringo, where I pur])osed founding a
second station. Mv idea was to be able, irom hence, to direct
"]''■'"
Von dek Hetdt House.
the ivory traffic of the Massai territories to Germany, and to
establish a rivalry with the English Mombassa route.
The English station, which still stood on the opposite side
of the river, was in those days burnt by the Gallas, and I was
powerless to prevent it. If the hopes I entertained while
founding the Von der Heydt House have not been realised,
at least the little settlement afforded me, during those
, ^. October davs of 1889, the full and pure enioyment of
Completion - ' i j j
of the labour as such. When the house was completed we
Tl Oil RP
made a little tablet, on which we inscribed in Roman
characters the name, " Von der Heydt Haus, 1, 10, 1889," and
we fastened the tablet to a pole on tlie left (if the house. Herr
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE GALLAS. 139
Borchert found both house and tablet in perfect preservation in
December.
But fate refused to fix the pure impressions of peaceful
industry upon our residence at Oda-Boru-Ruva. My relations
with the Gallas, which were at first hearty enough, unsatisfac-
gradually began to cloud over. The burning of the *?J^ "^^^j^
English station (an act committed without my order) theGaiias.
annoyed me, and I was put still more out of humour by the
fact that when, on October 5th, I sent to the second English
station for the articles of barter there, which I wanted to
have deposited in security at my own place, these articles had
vanished, and were already in the hands of the Gallas. Accord-
ingly, on October 6th, I despatched a categorical request to
Sultan Hugo for the restoration of these English articles of
barter. He came to me personally, in a very friendly manner,
and remained all the afternoon in my camp, explaining to me
that he had not had the custody of the English wares, for that
the Englishmen had confided the care of them to another
Galla ; and that altogether he did not believe there „ ,
' ° Hugo's
had been English goods left at the station at all. I doubtful ex-
. . , 1 p 1 planation.
was not m a position to test the truth oi these asser-
tions, but declared myself satisfied with Hugo's explanation.
Meanwhile, however, another affair had been maturing, which
led to strife and combat. The Suaheli slaves Mandutto and
Yembamba had put themselves into communication with
Hamiri, in the first instance, and through him with me, with
the enquiry if, in case of their coming into my camp with their
fellow-tribesmen, I should be willing to take them under my
protection against the Gallas. After some negotiation, I de-
clared that I would protect all those Galla slaves who could
prove that they had neither been bought by the Gallas, nor had
become prize of war, but had simply been stolen. Thereupon
thirteen men had had themselves inscribed on my lists, being
able to furnish the required proof. I informed the ^^^ g^j
Sultan Hugo of this on October 6th, and he replied tan's re-
~ , T T T 1 1 monstrance.
that I was lord of the Gallas, and could do as I thought
right, but that his tribe would look upon such a proceeding
140 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
on my part as a violent measure. Sultan Hugo had a very
beautiful wife, of gipsy-like appearance, but no children. He
hoped that I could give him a charm to remove this trouble,
and this formed one of the subjects of our conversation. I
promised to give him a final answer the next morning.
A fine moonlight night was ushered in by the evening of
October 6th. 1 had been still sitting in front of my tent towards
nine o'clock, and then I went to bed. Towards ten o'clock I
Mas aroused by the sentry before my tent, who reported that
Yembamba and Mandutto had appeared on the other side of
Alarming the Tana, with the news that the Gallas were holding
reports. ^ great stormy council, and had just determined to put
the Suaheli slaves in chains, and to attack my camp that
same night. I have from the beginning, throughout the whole
expedition, where I considered a conflict as unavoidable,
adopted the tactics of being the attacking party, so as to
secure to myself the advantages of the initiative. I was much
too weak in numbers to afford to practise concession in dealing
with the warlike propensities of the proud tribes of Northern
East Africa ; and I am convinced that we should have all been
lost men, if I had attempted such a yielding policy as would
have strengthened the lust for combat in our opponents and
weakened the courage of my own men. If the Gallas really
attacked my camp on October 6th, in the night time, it was
Difficult very probable that they would be beaten back. On
position. ^]^g Q^j^gj. j^g^jj^^ ^Yie task of resisting them would pro-
bably cost a great many more cartridges than an attack on my
part ; and, what was more important than all, the morale of
my troops must suffer considerably, if they found that my
position was not even strong enough to deter black men from
attacking our camp. Therefore I made up my mind at once
to bring the whole thing to an issue that very night.
I got up, ordered a short trumpet signal to be given, took
ten soldiers and twenty-five porters with me, and without
acquainting the sick Herr von Tiedemann, whom I supposed to
be asleep, with my intention, I crossed to the opposite side of
the Tana. For half an hour we marched towards the south-
COMBAT WITH THE GALL AS. 141
south-east upon the Sultan's kraal, in which the council was
being held. When I look back upon the events of this night,
I can see that the attitude I took up showed a great Decisive
want of experience in these matters. Later, I should measures
not have thought of doing what I did on October 6th, theGaUa
which was to advance with eight men of my main column, and
with these first eight, among whom was not one of my Somali
soldiers, to step, without ceremony, into an assembly of Gallas,
who were excited by the liberal use of beer. But I did not yet
believe in an impending battle ; I thought that I should succeed
in overawing, the people by my appearance, and in adjusting
the points in dispute between us by a consultation. So I
entered the Galla kraal, from which hoarse cries had reached
me from afar, and called twice aloud to the assembly, " Amani,
amani ! "(" Peace, peace ! ") But I had considerably over-esti-
mated the effect of my appearance. The answer to my
coming was, that a Galla warrior hurled his lance of Gaiia
at my head, grazing my ear, while a second made a ^°'"^'"^°-
thrust at my chest, which attack I only escaped by Hamiri's
dragging me on one side, whereby I fell on the ground, and
struck my head against the barrel of his gun. I pulled out
my revolver to shoot the Galla down, but unhappily my re-
volver cartridges missed fire, and I had to seize my rifle to
defend myself. For a moment the position was critical ; but
after we had fired on the whole about six volleys, by which the
Sultan and seven of his chief men were laid low, the matter
was decided within three minutes, and the whole tribe sudden
was scattered abroad. The Gallas were so completely fiiur°e™'f the
frightened, that some of them fled as far as the coast, "Sana's'
and there spread the report that I had fallen ; by which means
Europe for several months stood under the impression that our
expedition had been wrecked by the Tana, and that I myself
was dead.
When the fight was over I felt, indeed, the proud intoxica-
tion of the victor, but also a great disturbance of the nerves at
the thought of the first shedding of human blood. But there
was no time for such reflections ; circumstances urged us to
142 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
action. I at once perceived that it would be of the greatest
importance for the safety of my expedition, if I could secure
Necessity myself by a pledge against further enterprises of the
ofottain- (][a,llas. Accordingly I had all the women who were
ing nos- ^ •'
tages. hidden in the kraal, twenty-three in number, brought
out of their houses, to carry them with me into my camp. I
also found some men, Avhom I likewise carried off as prisoners
of war. I could not help perceiving, also, that it would probably
be no longer possible to obtain grain from the Gallas by pur-
chase, and so, the same night, I took possession of all the
stores I could find, and on the following days I increased these
The Gallas by further boat-loads that I caused to be brought across
ftor^s *° ™®- ^'^ *^® whole I succeeded in heaping up about
seized. eighty boat-loads of corn in my camp. Proud as
Thusnelda,* the wife of Sultan Hugo marched back, with
her companions in misfortune, into my camp, when towards
one o'clock we left the island. From the Sultan's kraal I
had marched at once into the slaves' village, and had here
set free about thirty slaves, men, women, and children, and
immediately taken them into my camp with all their property.
When I awoke on the morning of October 7th I stood face
to face with quite a new condition of affairs. Now I was the
true lord in these regions ; " there was nothing that did not
belong to me." But my situation, nevertheless, looked at m
its true light, was a worse one than that of the day
to^fte" ^* before ; for how, without the Gallas, was I to find
Tana? ^^^ ^^^^ ^p ^j^^ Tana river ? How could I hope to
regain communications with my second column if I lived in
enmity with this race, who could always interrupt the com-
munications between Massai and Oda-Boru-Ruva ? How, in
conclusion, could my plans, which I attached to the founding^
of the Van der Heydt House, be fulfilled, if the Gallas quitted
the neighbourhood and it became converted into a desert, like
that which bordered Oda-Boru-Ruva to the east and west?
* ThiTsnelda, in the history of the ancient Germans, was a heroic German
woman, the wife of Hermann, or Arminius, the conqueror of the Roman
general Varus, at the battle of the Teutoburg Eorest, a.d. 9.— Tk.
NEGOTIATIONS REOPENED WITH IHE GALL AS. 143
Added to this, I had just received the news, on October 7th,
that the Somalis had encamped by the river, between me and
the coast, and, in a body five thousand strong, were The hostile
cutting oif the communication down stream . A few days somaiis.
before I had sent off a report to Germany and to Lieutenant-
Captain Rust. On October 7th my messenger Abocca returned
with the announcement that he had found it impossible to
make his way through the Somalis.
These considerations determined me to make the attempt
to resume peaceful relations with the Gallas ; accordingly,
already on October 7th I dismissed the men I had Fortifying
captured, with a message that the Gallas might return, *® ''^'"P'
for I was willing to deliver up their wives to them. At the
same time, I began that day to "fortify my camp, by having
strong palisades and an almost impenetrable thorn fence raised
around it. Three gates gave access to the camp — one above
and one below, close by the river, and the third at the back.
A double post of sentries was established at these gates night
and day, and the sentries were visited every night by me or by
my worthy Hussein Fara. I may mention that it was my prin-
ciple, in the further prosecution of the expedition, to consider
the deep responsibility of guarding against chance surprises by
hostile tribes. I knew that I owed it to my people to take care
that a surprise, either by night, or on the march, or under any
circumstances, should be a thing that could not happen to the
German Emin Pasha Expedition, and that, whatever our fate
might be, it was for me to secure to the expedition the Boldness
possibility of fighting against destruction to the last, autr"*''"^
Therefore I determined to be bold in my general deci- necessary,
sions, but in details to cultivate the greatest and most painful
caution. Thus there was now introduced in the German Emin
Pasha Expedition a guard system that has not, I think, been
surpassed, up to the present time, in the history of African
explorations. In me Massai lands, afterwards, eight ^^^^^^^^^
posts were established, almost regularly every night, ^^^^''**<'^-
and the sentries were visited every hour. Before the
. posts I caused great fires to be lighted, that we might overlook
144 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the ground about us, while the camp itself was kept dark. I
afterwards abandoned altogether the s}'Stem of fencing in my
camp, because it took from my people the proud feeling of
superiority and security which was the only basis of victory for
my little column. Our safety depended entirely on our sentry
service.
The negotiations with the Gallas went on for some days.
On the evening of October 8th Gall-Galla made his appearance
Gaii-Gaiia'sii ^^7 camp. His tribe had been restored, he said, and
cunning, jjg offered himself to me as a servant. The sly fellow
only wanted to have a pretext for finding out how I was in-
clined towards the men of his tribe. I learnt from Gall-Galla
that the Gallas had chosen a new sultan, named Gollo, and
that they were willing to enter into negotiations with me con-
cerning the arrangement of a peace. On October 15th the
assembly of the people was to be held, in which I would treat
Sultan with the Gallas. They duly made their appearance,
GoHo. ]3y(- tjieii- young sultan Gollo had considered it prefer-
able to solace himself with beer, and thus missed the sitting,
which took place on October 16th. On that day I crossed
the river, and found Gollo to be a young gentleman of very
cavalier-like appearance ; he had almost the outward style of
an officer in the Guards, and did not assume any great humility
of behaviour towards me. He demanded that before he entered
into negotiations with me for peace, I should pay blood-money
for the fallen Gallas, according to the custom of their tribe.
To deal with him, I affected an access of fury, seizing my
three-legged stool, and throwing it at the Sultan's head. I
jumped up, and declared that if the Gallas came with such
demands, I, for my part, should prefer war ; and I now ordered
them to choose another sultan, — that I did not wish to nego-
Deposition tiate any more with Gollo. This produced its effect.
Sultan"' That very same day Gollo was deposed, and a man
sadeh. named Sadeh, who was friendly to the Germans, and had
been on a good footing with me from the beginning, was chosen
sultan. Gollo also betook himself that very same day to " sum-
mer freshness ; " that is to say, he went elephant-hunting, and
A TREATY OF PEACE. 145
we soon heard that he had succeeded in killing an elephant. I
entrusted to Sadeh the sultanate in my name, and placed Gall-
Galla at his side as my agent and as chief of the station " Von
der Heydt House." On October 16th the negotiations with
Sadeh were brought to an end in the following treaty : —
"Von der Heydt House, October l&th.
" The two undersigned herewith conclude peace and
friendship :
" Dr. Carl Peters, Chief of the German Emin
Pasha Expedition ; and
" Sadeh, Sultan of the Gallas.
" Dr. Peters respects the lives and property of the ^^^.
Gallas. i®*^^?
Dr. Peters
" The Gallas unreservedly acknowledge Dr. Carl and suitan
Peters as their lord.
" They promise to respect the station ' Von der Heydt
House,' and to co-operate in its extension.
"They undertake to support, with all their strength, the
expedition of Dr. Peters and his gentlemen.
" The whole of the land on the ' Von der Heydt Islands '
belongs to Dr. Peters, and the Gallas will sell ivory only to
him and his representatives.
.„. -,. ("Dr. Carl Peters.
{btgned) |<<g^^^^^ Sadeh's mark.
f" Von Tiedemann.
"Sec. Lt. k.l.s. of the Dragoon Regiment
Von Wedell (Pomerania, No. 11).
" Mark of the Galla Galgalla.
" „ Galla Galgalla Mse.
" ,, Somali Hussein Faea.
" „ Porter Headman Musa.
" ,, Bana jMaku, second servant of
Dr. Peters.
" „ MSUAHELI SaDIKL
" Certijied as correct,
" Von Tiedemakn."
10
Witnesses
146 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
The negotiations were this day conducted in the Von der
Heydt House, and were accompanied by all the ceremonial of
The treaty the Galla State. They were confirmed by the present
ratified. qJ ^ gheep wMch Sadeh had brought with him. This
sheep afterwards had a somewhat curious destination, half of it
being made into invalid soup for one of the camels, a medicine
which had been hit upon by those wise gentlemen, my Somalis.
" Give him some soup, sir," said Hussein.
During those days I wrote down a series of observations
and notes concerning the Gallas, which I intended to send to
Germany. I left this budget behind me at Oda-Boru-Ruva ;
but unfortunately it has not been delivered up to Herr Oskar
Borchert. Probably the Gallas were afraid, and that with
Missing reason, that in my reports I had given information of
reports, j^y fight with them ; and thus they preferred to sup-
press the whole packet. Thus it happened that in Germany
they were for months without any news of me, as later reports,
which I sent off for Germany from Hargazo and Murdoi, also
did not get further than Oda-Boru-Ruva.
I likewise resumed my excursions in the neighbourhood,
during which I saw a mountain ridge gleaming to the north of
Oda-Boru-Ruva ; probably it represented the watershed between
Discover J^^a and Tana. I have called these mountains Galla
of mountain Mountains. But I especially devoted much pains to
procuring information concerning the upper course of
the Tana, as well from geographical interest as with reference
to the further march of my expedition. The moment when we
should resume our march was necessarily approaching. Week
after week went by, and in vain did I look longingly down the
river, waiting for my second column under Lieutenant-Captain
Waiting -^"^*' °^' ^* ^^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^S° °^* lif^ fro'^ that direction,
for Bust's The full moon came and waned, and no news reached
column j^~.
me. The Somalis advanced to Oda Galla, about six
miles off. Where was Lieutenant-Captain Rust, and what had
become of my second column? Already on October 8th I
had made the sacrifice of sending Hamiri with Muhamed, a
Somali, down the river to re-establish the communications
THE SECOND COLUMN IS 3IISSING. 147
with Rust. Two weeks went bjs and of them, too, there was
no intelligence !
I was now obliged to look a very serious decision in the
face. I did not possess any articles of barter for the Massai
lands, with the exception of a load of iron wire and half a load
of beads. Should I, setting at nought all African
PGrulBxitiGB
traditions, risk the march among the dangerous tribes and
of the west, or should I, under all the circumstances, ^*°^*"-
wait at Oda-Boru-Ruva, at least until I heard news as to the
fate of my second column .P But this waiting consumed the
collected supplies to no purpose, and depressed the spirits of my
troop. Beyond this, every month of delay might jeopardise the
fate of the undertaking in the Equatorial Province itself. I
could not expect an answer to this question from without. The
stars to which I gazed up enquiringly remained voiceless, and
no token was vouchsafed to me by Providence ; unless, indeed, I
chose to interpret as such a jesting oracle I one evening setup
on my own account. My expedition was still in possession of
a herophon, into which I placed plates for playing different
pieces of music. One evening I determined to seek for an omen
in reference to the further fortunes of the expedition ah appeal
by means of this instrument. In the darkness I put in *° *^*^'
the first plate that came to hand, with the idea of taking the
character of the piece that turned up, as a sign from Heaven.
I could not help smiling when, all at once, the well-known
march from Carmen rang out. I shall, however, be believed
when I say that my decision was not actively influenced by this
circumstance. But I certainly was now to march away.
The considerations that led me to this step, I have noted in
the instructions which I left behind me at Oda-Boru-Ruva for
Lieutenant-Captain Rust. This memorandum of instructions was
as follows : —
" Oda-Boeu-Ruva. From the Von dee Heydt House,
" October 20th, 1889.
"To Lieutenant-Captain Rust.
" For four weeks I have waited here in vain for you, or
for any sign of life from you. This long delay of any kind of
148 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
intelligence, in spite of my repeated attempts, I can account
for to myself in four ways :
" 1. My letters may have been lost.
" 2. Some deplorable physical accident may have happened
to you personally.
" 3. Your column may have been temporarily wrecked, by
instruc- *^^ running away of your boatmen,
tionsfor "4. You may have been prevented from carrying
Lieutenant- . . j i t i i ii
Captain out the commission entrusted to you by those
"'*■ machinations from behind from which we have
already suffered so much.
" However this may be, in the absence of all intelligence,
although as lately as the 8th instant I sent off Hamiri to you,
my honour and my duty now compel me, with the small forces
I have at my disposal, to undertake to push forward at once to
Emin Pasha. If I did otherwise, I should expose the expedition
to the danger of total wreck, being utterly unable to ascertain
what has taken place in my rear. You will yourself be able to
judge with what grave consideration I expose myself to this
new salto mortale, thus marching away, without any articles of
barter, for Massailand and the territories situated behind it.
Nevertheless I have made up my mind to grasp at the last
chance of success, which now lies entirely in prompt action,
in view of the tolerably certain prospect of failure if I remain
here longer ; and I start from here to-morrow, with about
ninety loads.
" My plan is, supposing I find a guide at Ukamba, to march
past the Kenia direct to Kawirondo, by the Victoria Nyanza to
Proposed Massala. If I do not find a guide, I must go to the
route of Kitui of Couut Telcki, to get from thence to the Baringo,
Dr. Peters. ' o o '
and so onward to Massala. As I take guides from here,
you will learn whither I have marched ; which you can, more-
over, at all times ascertain on any march you may undertake.
From Massala I will travel along the northern shore of the
Nyanza, to where the Nile flows out of the lake, and there set
myself right as to whether the route is to be taken through
Uganda, or if Uganda is to be skirted to the east. My next
RESOLVE ON A NEW ADVANCE. 149
chief point would be Mruli, in Unjoro, from which it requires
only a week to get to Emin Pasha. I reckon to Massala, not
taking interruptions into account, five weeks, and from thence
to Mruli two to three weeks. From the Kenia I shall perhaps
go by the so-called Thomson route, which, according to his
book, leads to Massala over Njemps in four to five weeks. I
hope, however, to find Teleki's guides at Kitui.
" I now leave behind me the following instructions for you : —
" Make use of the relations I have established here with
the Gallas. The first sultan whom I met here, Hugo, I con-
sidered, in consequence of his treachery, which threatened our
camp, as an enemy, or at any rate as a lukewarm friend, and he
fell, with seven Gallas, in a nocturnal fight against us. His
first successor, Gollo, who behaved with considerable pouoyto
insolence towards us, and was called to order by me towards'**
with some asperity at a public assembly of the people, ti^e Gaiias.
and threatened with war, was deposed by his subjects. He
must be kept in view as the so-called leader of a possible
war party. The present sultan, Sadeh, was appointed with
my sanction. He has made a treaty with me, in which he
acknowledges me as lord of the Gallas, cedes territory to me,
etc. ; in return for which I secure to him life and property, so
far as I come into question. He promises in the treaty espe-
cially to support our expedition. He has promised me by word
of mouth, in the presence of witnesses, to provide porters for
you to the Kenia. If he does not fulfil this, it is said that
donkeys are to be had, three days' journey from here. The
Wagalla are to help you to organise an expedition with
donkeys to the Nyanza.
" This I commission you to do, if you are ready by December
15th, and can follow me. But if I should march over Kitui and
the Baringo, I further commission you to establish jj^^^^j.^^
stations in each of these places, and eventually to to be taken
complete those I have founded. As guards, depend-
able people belonging to the place itself are always in the
first place to be kept in view. At Massala you would hear
further from me.
150 NEW LIGHT ON DA UK AFRICA.
" Jf you consider the organising of a donkey expedition by
December 15th of this year as impracticable, I request you to
disband your column as quickly as possible, to provide the
Discretion Station here with articles of barter, and to leave
the ueut- Hamiri behind with a few Askaris. The rest of your
Captain, column I request you to dispose of in Lamu or Zan-
zibar to the best possible advantage, for the benefit of the
German Emin Pasha committee. I should relieve you of your
responsibilities with regard to my expedition, without, however,
shutting you out from our undertaking. Until the result is
decided, I entrust you with the representation of our interests
first at Lamu, then in Zanzibar, until you hear further con-
cerning the fortunes of my column. Kindly suggest to the
committee, if necessary, to summon you to Germany to make
your report. In such case, I request you to order home Herr
Borchert to Germany, regard being had to my obligations made
under contract, and the commercial accounts being settled ; for
The report I have heard that his health has suffered. I request
to Europe, y^^ ^q ^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^f ^^^^^ instructions, as soon as
possible, by the quickest way to Europe, and likewise beg you
to send the accompanying packet down river as soon as
you can.
"With the best wishes foi- your prosperity, and for the
completion of your commission,
" I remain, with friendly sentiments,
" Yours faithfully, and with esteem,
" Carl Petees.
"P.S. — Let an attempt be made, moreover, to purchase
ivory ; and please take under your protection the station garden
and the plantations that are to be laid out. Signed (C. P.)"
The. decisive cast had now been made. On October 18th
I had the articles of barter packed and marked anew ; and on
the 19th my whole column was employed in pounding maize,
for I had ordered that each man should take with him a supply
of meal for twenty-five days. The steppe which lay before us
had, until now, completely resisted every attempt to penetrate
FAREWELL TO ODA-BORU-nrVA.
151
through it. Two English expeditious before miue had been
wrecked. In the maize flour I hoped to hud the magic key
that should open to me the portals of the desert. On the I8th
there appeared, provided for me by the Gallas, eight The deci-
guides, whom, for the sake of security, I immediately cj-o^s'the
caused to be chained. On the afternoon of October ^^^vv^-
20th I once more visited the beautiful island of Oda-Boru-
Ruva, which was still deserted by the Gallas, and sat for the
last time, for a quarter of an hour, in my Yon der Heydt House,
the erection of which had afforded me so much pleasure, ^ly
frame of mind was grave, yet mingled with joyful emotion.
The sinking sun that day again showed me the mysterious
ridges of mountains in the west, which hid from me the world
of the Massais. My resolution was taken ; all preparations were
made. "We will try if we can succeed where the two „
.... . Hopes and
English expeditious failed. Let us penetrate into the auticipa-
girdle of wilderness that guards the lands of the West,
and let us see if the magic key we hold is able to unlock for us
the gates of the territory of the Nile.
DEPARTURE FROM ODA-BORU-RUVA. 153
German Emin Pasha Expedition was for the future to bear.
It was plain that if I was not in a position to go forward
in the Massai land, paying the usual tribute, I must Exceptional
expect to experience warlike opposition in that ter- ^^^^^/^^"^
ritory. I did not go away from Oda-Boru-Ruva ^^peiiition-
with the intention of leading the expedition onward, in this
sense. As a last resource, I thought at that time I could
have still made use of the powder which I carried with me
for Emin Pasha, as an article of barter in these lands. I
also cherished the hope of meeting with Arab dealers at the
Baringo or the Victoria Nyanza, from whom I could perhaps
purchase articles of barter, paying by a cheque on Zanzibar.
Nevertheless, when on the morning of October 21st I quitted
the Oda-Boru-Ruva that had become so dear to me, it was
with a feeling that our expedition was now gliding
" ^ b & Xjig future
away from the tracks of the calculable into the region incaicui-
of the adventurous. The one thing that comforted *
me, under this impression, was the certain conviction, that
the only way to carry out the task proposed was the one upon
which I was that morning entering.
The night before, I had sent an order to the Gallas to
provide four great boats for me, to convey corn up the river.
As these boats had not yet appeared at six o'clock next Delays of
morning, I was compelled to send my column forward ^^^ Dallas,
towards Galamba, and to wait with a few Somali soldiers. I
bad received about twenty slave-women, with their children,
into my camp, and at the last moment I resolved to send these
also by boat up the Tana. Towards seven o'clock the Gallas
arrived with the four boats I had ordered, and I could then
follow my column on horseback to Galamba. How right it was
to have sent grain up in boats, was not fully shown till jj^^g^jity
a week afterwards, when I found that my people had ofprovid-
1 in^ grain.
already, in the first days, either eaten up or thrown
away the grain served out to them, that was to have lasted
them for twenty-five days. By means of these four boat-loads
of maize I had it once more put into my power, at Hargazo,
to provision my column for several days. And this was partly
lo4 XEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA.
the reason why we did not experience the fate of the English
expeditions, in the steppes into which we had now advanced.
The impressions of the first day's march from Oda-Boru-
Ruva up the Tana were for me very depressing. Though I
had put most of the slave-women, with their children, into the
boats, a few had preferred to march with their husbands. As
Inveterate I I'ode onward, in the rear of my expedition, I found
stragglers, ^j^ggg ^g^y elements lying, some here, others there, by
the wayside, and was repeatedly compelled to adopt measures
of punishment, to maintain the old order of march. At this
first march, I at once recognised the fact that it would not
be possible to caiTy on the German Emin Pasha Expedition
further, with the wives and children of the newly -enlisted
Gallas, and consequently I made my decision on the evening
Gaiamb °^ *^^*' ^^^' ^* Galamba. This place lies opposite the
point in the river where the island of Oda-Boru-Ruva
terminates. Wapokomo and Gallas live here together, and by
the latter we were welcomed in a friendly manner, immediately
upon my arrival.
From Galamba onward I began, so to speak, to hunt for the
" Kiloluma," which was marked on the maps of that day as a
tributary of the Tana. For this purpose I made a boat excur-
sion up the Tana this afternoon, whereby I ascertained that
here at least no Kiloluma existed ; and, by enquiries I made,
I conceived a suspicion that no tributary of the kind flows into
Supply of *^® Tana. When I returned to my camp from this
fish in the excursion, in the evening, I found all my people
employed pulling fish out of the river. Behind Oda-
Boru-Ruva the Tana begins to be very full of fish ; a circum-
stance by which my column learned to profit more and more.
This day was not fated, however, to close amid such cheer-
ful impressions. At seven o'clock I caused the slaves of the
Gallas who accompanied me to assemble for a consultation, and
represented to them that it would be quite impossible to carry
their wives and children with me into the interior of Africa.
They had all seen to-day, I said, how wearisome such a march
was, and yet to-day we had only had half or a quarter of a day's
SLAVE WOMEN AND CHILDREN SENT BACK. 155
marching. We were as j'et still in countries where we could
journey onward in peace. But it would be certain destruction
to women and children, when once we should have sot „ . .
' ~ Decision
into the territory of the Massais. T was very sorry for concerning
it, but I must put it to them, whether they would be- and
take themselves, with their families, back to the Gallas, ''^^ ^*"'
who were friendly to us now ; or, as an alternative, I should
be willing to send the latter under an escort, this very evening,
in some of my boats down the Tana to Ngao. At that place
there was a station of Germans, to whom I would write that
they were to give the needy people a kind welcome ; and this
they would certainly do, as they had come to help the black
people. The slaves declared that they were prepared to die, all
of them, with wives and children, sooner than let their families
fall once more into the hands of the Gallas. They good sense
could see plainly that they would probably lose many "ftiiemen.
of their people in the interior, if they went with me ; therefore
they accepted, with great joy, my proposal to send the women
and children to Ngao, until the expedition was finished. Yem-
bamba and another old slave should accompany them, and the
others would go forward with me, to return to their wives and
children within a year. I immediately had two large boats
unloaded, and placed at the disposal of the Gallas.
It was urgently necessary that they should pass by Oda-
Boru-Ruva that very night, because it was to be feared that by
daylight the Gallas would pursue the boats, and get them into
their possession. Accordingly, I urged an immediate departure.
During the next half-hour a very touching and heart-rending
scene was enacted. Men were taking farewell of their parting
little ones, who cried and wept aloud. Women packed "='''''•
their things into the boats, and my Somalis cursed at the whole
affair, which gave them so much work in the hours of night.
The boats rode deep in the water, when, towards nine ^^ j^^.
o'clock, all was ready for departure. I urged the tives,o^n^
necessity of rowing quickly down the river ; and if my
exhortation had been attended to by Yembamba, there is no
doubt that, in the deep darkness that reigned around, they would
156 yi-JW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
have got past Oda-Boru-Ruva unperceived. I felt quite easy
in mj- mind as to the late of the column, when towards eleven
o'clock the Galla Sultan Sadeh, and his brother Parisa, appeared
in a most innocent manner in my camp, to pass the night with
us. I naturally assumed that they had not seen the fugitives
making their way down the river, or else that their fear of us
was still sufficiently strong to protect the latter in their
retreat.
Concerning the fate of the party I was first enlightened
three days afterwards, when Yembamba rejoined us, bleeding
and half-starved. The boats had, it appeared, run on a sand-
Yembamba's bank in the dark night, and could not be floated off
doleful re- until towards the morning. They had then been chased
appearance
andnarra- by the Gallas, and after Yembamba had killed three of
the pursuers, all the fugitives had fallen once more
into the hands of their mortal enemies. Yembamba had
escaped to the right bank by swimming ; and from thence,
pursued by the Gallas, he had made his way back to my
column.
It was one of the cruel necessities to which I was exposed
during this expedition, that it was not permitted me to turn
back once more, to release those women and children from the
hands of the Gallas. With a heavy heart I was compelled to
pursue my march towards the west, where greater questions
were awaiting settlement.
From Galamba upwards, the Tana presents an uninterrupted
succession of island formations. About forty-six miles above
Oda-Boru-Ruva its upper course changes to its middle course.
Flowing onward through a rocky bed thus far, it enters the
sandy steppe at Hargazo, and in the varying height of the water
Course of new channels of streams continually are produced, and
the Tana, corresponding formations of islands. At intervals are
expanses in the form of lakes, so that the river reminds one
vividly of the Havel between Potsdam and Spandau. All these
islands, whose uniform character was first noticed by us, I
afterwards entered in the map under the common appellation of
the Von der Heydt Islands. The shores are here clothed with a
THE COriiSE OF THE TAXA.
157
thick fringe of forest, which, seen from the river, appears in
parts like a hanging wood. The ishuids rise, dark green in
cohjur, from the bright snrface of the water, so that boat
excursions here on the Tana, of whicli I undertook xhe islands
several, offer unusual charms of landscape. On thi' ^"^ '^^ "^"^■•
left bank are still found some Wapokomo settlements, which
extend as far as Hameje. The right side of the river, along
which we marched, is already a completel}' desert steppe, un-
peopled b)" the wars of centuries between Gallas and Wakandja,
The Vox dek Heydt Islands.
who extend their predator}- raids as far as this region, aud
whose camping-places we had an opportunity of observing,
already in the first days of our march, behind fralamba.
The river dt'viates here more and more from its nortli-
western course to a western direction, but from Hargazo begins
to turn back towards the south-west. Tlie names settlements
entered upon the map, sucli as Gakashannjrra, Iposa, ""^ ''^'"''■■
Galangogessa, Hameje, and so on, do imt signify towns, but
(inly ])]aces by the rivei'. I conjecture that they were once
(Taila settlements. The forest on the margin is here unusually
broad, and the openings to the river can hardly be descried,
158 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
SO that my messengers whom I had sent up the stream a few
weeks before from Oda-Boru-Ruva had almost perished from
exhaustion. We had, however, three efficient Gallas as guides,
imder the leadership' of Parisa, the brother of Sultan Sadeh.
Thus, by a five days' march through the steppe, we arrived safely
at glorious Hameje, where, with its luxuriant islands
Hamejeandand lake-like expansions, surrounded by magnificent
Its islands, i^g^jjgijjg ^yoods, alive with all kinds of game animals
and fowl, the stream assumes an altogether imposing appear-
ance. Hameje represents a ford to the water, and forms one
of the broad dry arms of the stream, where tracks of wild
animals lead to the water. As had been often the case before,
in the night we heard the roaring of lions immediately in
front of our tents, and Herr von Tiedemann was even obliged
to vacate his tent in rather quick time, because one of these
amiable guests, moved probably by a kind of curiosity, felt
himself impelled to bring his head a little too near the tent.
Visit from Tiedemauu struck at him several times with the
lion. revolver, whereupon both parties took a most summary
leave of each other — one betaking himself into the forest, the
other to the camp-fires of the Somalis. The next morning
when we started I enjoyed the still more original spectacle of a
lion stretched out, in broad daylight, close by our line of march.
I was unfortunately on horseback, and had given my rifle to a
servant to carry, so that our meeting was to a certain extent
only a platonic one ; though the lion did not seem at all in a
hurry to get up, but measured me for a tolerably long time
with his eyes, before he slowly betook himself into the forest.
On the afternoon of October 25th I made a boating excur-
Excursion siou of Several hours up the Tana, still searching for
on the Tana. ^^g Kiloluma ; the noil-existence of which river, as far
as Hameje, I had already proved by the boats I sent up. This
day I navigated along the northern bank of the Tana, till close
to Hargazo, without seeing any stream running into it from the
north. Next morning I caused my boats to follow me to
Hargazo, and the boatmen corroborated the fact that there was
no river-mouth on the north as far as that place.
a
CATARACTS OF THE TAXA. 159
A bright halo encircles that day at Hameje in the memory
of us all. Here for the first time the mountain chains in the
west came clearly into view. My people revelled in the
enjoyment of the supplies that were brought to us „ . .
1 . - , " Eemmis-
here m the boats, and tumbled about merrily in the oences of
broad shallow river, after the six days' marching ^*™*''*-
through the scorched steppe. We all imagined we had the
Kenia before us, and fancied ourselves a month and a half
nearer to the goal of our journey than we were in reality.
In the most cheerful of spirits we marched next morning upon
Hargazo.
The surface of the country here for the first time begins to
lose the character of a steppe, and to assume a more undulat-
ing form. The character of the bush flora becomes more
luxuriant. In cool valleys a fresher wealth of grass Eiojj^ggg
and a richer store of flowers appear. Many-coloured of the
butterflies hover above the glittering array of blossoms, ^'
and the granitic ground gives indication that we are very neai'
the mountains. At Hargazo, where we arrived at eleven in
the morning, the Tana again spreads out in a lake-like form ;
and here it seemed to be at last, the fork of the river that we
had been seeking so long. The Tana here falls from its upper
into its middle course, in a series of rapids and a cataract of
about 20 to 22 feet in height. To this fall I at once betook
myself, by boat, with my servant Rukua and a few
Wapokomo. " Kiloluma ! " cried the Wapokomo when of the
Tana
they saw it. To the left of the fall a broad arm bends
away in a south-west direction. Towards the north-west the
Kiloluma falls down. There it was at last, as it seemed !
Full of joyful emotion, I had myself rowed close under the fall,
whose refreshing spray I enjoyed to the utmost. I climbed up
the rock on the left, from which it poured down, and thus
ascertained its height with tolerable accuracy. In honour of
the President of the German Emin Pasha committee, Hofinann
Minister of State von Hofmann, I named it " Hofmann ^^^^^^
Falls," and then I immediately returned down river to the
camp, to impart my discovery to Herr von Tiedemann, and to
160 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
note it down at once. On that morning I did not yet know
that " Kiloluma " is merely the Ukamba word for a rushing
stream or waterfall, and that the whole Upper Tana is known
by this name among the Wakamba.
That the fork of the river I had seen in the morning had
nothing to do with a second river coming from the north, but
was simply a dividing of the Tana itself into two arms, I was
able to verify as early as the afternoon of October 26th.
"Rta.ti ftTl PR
of the On that afternoon I determined to follow up my dis-
^*'^°" covery of the morning, and therefore directed Herr von
Tiedemann to proceed with two boats up the left arm of the
river, while I myself, with a company of people, followed the
course of the stream on the same side by land. Something
more than a mile above the place where the river separates
into branches below the fall, I came upon the boats, which had
stuck fast in the rapids of the southern arm. To my astonish-
ment I could perceive, from the high river bank, that these
The rapids, rapids in the southern arm rush down somewhat above
a branching of the stream towards the north, so that we had
manifestly an island formation before us. Could the upper
arm of the river perhaps be identical with the current that I
had seen from below in the morning, and which throws itself
into the Hofmann Falls ? This trace must be followed up.
Accordingly, I had a boat brought over to me, — which was
done with great difficulty, — embarked upon it with Herr von
Tiedemann, a Somali, and two Wapokomo, and then had it
taken into the northern arm of the river. Along this we drove
down for some distance, and then went on shore to the north,
to get a general survey of the surrounding country. On the
Tiede- proposal of Herr von Tiedemann we ascended a hill to
mann's Hiu. the north of the Tana, which I have called, after him,
Tiedemann Hill. From this point we had the view we wanted.
There, to the west, in front of the setting sun, rose an impor-
tant chain of mountains, losing itself in unlimited distance
towards the north. Those were the mountains which we had
already seen, under peculiarly favourable conditions of light,
from Oda-Boru-Ruva, — the chain which here met our view,
THE VARIOUS FOUNTAIN CHAINS. 161
and which, following the old maps, Ave had always considered as
connected at least with the Kenia mountain system. Especially
magnificent rose, to the north-west of where we stood, a moun-
tain peak, whose summit had something of the form of a round
half-overturned garden tahle. Behind the first chain, peak
after peak reared its head. "We stood, strongly inter-
j. 1 •, ■• . n . , . , Mountain
ested, opposite an entire region of mountains, which chains of
the eye of no white man had yet beheld. In the *''*^'''''"
glowing evening sky the outlines of the mountains stood forth
with especially picturesque distinctness. It was the first time
the German Emin Pasha Expedition stood in view of a magni-
ficent formation of land ; and mindful of the powerful The "Em-
bond which, here in the far-distant land, united us two ^[juam n
Germans the more closely with our German home. Mountains."
I christened these mountains the " Emperor William II. Moun-
tains," and called the most prominent peak, towering before us,
the " Hohenzollern Peak."
The sun sank in the west, and, willingly or unwillingly, we
were obliged to tear ourselves from the sight before us, for
fear of losing oar way to the boat and the camp, in the rapidly-
approaching darkness. With some difficulty we succeeded in
getting back to the boat ; and now, in the grey twilight, we
drove down the current of the northern Tana into the rapids,
that rolled more and more ^Yildly. The little boat flew hissing
through the foam of the rushing river. The people An adven-
had to be continually baling out the water that poured boat"^
in over the gunwales to keep the boat from sinking. ''°y^s^-
At times there was a danger of its being shattered on a pointed
rock ; sometimes of its capsizing in a hissing whirlpool. It was
a nerve-bracing passage, lasting about half an hour, when
suddenly we heard the roaring of the cataract in front of us.
At first our boatmen had launched with reluctance and fear
into the foaming rapids ; but gradually they had gained cour-
age, probably imagining that we possessed a charm against
capsizing, and now they were for boldly rowing down Danger to
the Hofmann Fall itself, which is from 20 to 24 feet *^" '"'^*-
high. With the greatest difficulty we managed to bring the
11
162 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
boat up, at the last moment, on the right bank, where it was
drawn ashore, and carried down to a point below the falls. We
were, in truth, below the Hofmann Fall that I had discovered
that morning ; and thus the fact was confirmed, that in this
" Kiloluma " there was no question of a tributary from the
north, but simply of a fork of the river ; and that consequently
the land in the south is merely an island, which I have named
Hofmann Island. I was able still further to establish this
GeograpM- when, ou our passage back to the camp, we again passed
cai results, ^]^g forked poiut to the south-west that I had seen in
the morning. Thus on Octbber 26th, 1889, a very noticeable
negative result was gained for the geography of the Upper
Tana ; and in consequence we returned in a very jubilant frame
of mind into the camp, where on the same evening I wrote a
report of the morning's and afternoon's observations for trans-
mission to the German Emin Pasha committee at home.
My Galla guides were desirous of returning to their country
that very evening, according to the terms of their ,agreement,
The GaUa ^lade in Oda-Boru-Ruva. I ordered two of them, how-
guides. ever, to accompany me further up the river, until I
should succeed in procuring fresh guides. I sent one of the
Gallas, with a few Wapokomo, during the night, to their people,
to satisfy the latter concerning the fate of their fellow-countrymen
who were with us. Thus with fresh courage, on October 27th,
we resumed our wandering towards the unknown west.
As I was entirely uninstructed in the geography of these
countries, I determined to make an attempt to get my boats
xrapfs con- farther up the Tana. Krapf had, in his time,
concerning expressed his opinion, from Ukamba Kitui, that the
the Tana. Xaua might be navigable down to its mouth. I
resolved, in summary fashion, to established the correctness
or error of Krapf's conjecture. The very first day brought the
proof that his hypothesis was utterly untenable ; which is not
at all surprising, when the fact is taken into account that the
level of the land at Hargazo is about 1,000 feet above that of
the sea, and that after the first day's march of about nine miles
■we had already reached a level of 1,500 feet. In consequence
NATURE OF THE UPPER TANA COUNTRY, 163
of this scale of ascent from Hargazo, which is uninterruptedly
maintained up to the source of the Tana, the stream Nature of
from this point presents a series of cataracts and "^ '^°'^^^-
rapids, which in several instances exhibit themselves on a
magnificent scale. The descent from this part is through a
series of terraces, and these terraces slope generally in an
abrupt form towards the east. To the traveller coming from
the east, a terrace ridge of this kind appears, from the dis-
tance, as a sharply-defined mountain ridge. After ascending it,
he finds himself in a flat steppe, like that of the lower and
middle Tana, and sees towering on the horizon a new mountain
range, which afterwards, in its turn, proves to be the ridge of
a terrace.
Thus it goes on uninterruptedly as far as Kikuyu and the
Leikipeia plateau, where we have before us, at an elevation of
7,000 feet, the culmination of this grand elevated plateau forma-
tion, which on the other side slightly declines again towards the
Victoria Nyanza. This general swelling upward of the _,
i.ii6 ^r6&>ii
great mass of land surface evidently shows a peculiar elevated
plateau
formation, the centre of which is the volcanic hearth
of the Baringo territory, and on which the conical peaks of
the Kenia, the Subugula Poron, the Tchibcharagnani, and the
Elgon, all similar in character, are superimposed. These four,
in tolerably regular declivities, surround Lake Baringo, which
is manifestly nothing more than an extinct crater. The great
mass of this elevated plateau is divided in the midst by a
tremendous rift, in which, among others, are situated y^j^^jjij.
Lake Nairwasha and Lake Baringo, besides a series of nature of
smaller lakes. I shall have to return to this peculiar
formation. It will suffice here to remark that the ascent con-
tinues uninterruptedly from Hargazo, and that, accordingly,
from this place the Tana takes the form of a Kiloluma, or uoisy
river, and therefore there can be no question about its being
tinnavigable.
Our camping-ground on October 27th was at a place called
by the Gallas Jibije. Here the line of hills of the Emperor
William's chain crosses the Tana, and they appear as very
104
iVSTF LIGHT ON DABK AFRICA.
extraordinary rocky iViniiatioDs. One of these peaks, 2,000 feet
hkh, I ascended in the afternoon with Herr von 'I'iede-
Jibije and ^ ' xi j- ii • *I
themoun- mann ; and we had once more the lull vievv over the
*^''''^''^'- Emperor William II. Mountains; and in the north-east
we ajjain saw tlie line ol' the Galla nnjuntains displayed.
My people had not been able to bring the boats up to
Jibije ; and if, on that evening, I attributed the non-arrival of
those vessels to want of energy in my followers, I was able on
The " Devil's Field.'
the following day to convince myself, by the witness of my
own eyes, of the complete impossibility of navigating
1. ll6 1. a>llS>
not navi
srable.
the Tana. For on this day the stream poured itself
along over rough grey boulders, which reminded me
vividly of some parts below the Brocken, and which I was
inclined to insert hi my maj) as " Devil's Field." The river here
merges into a series of raging torrents. All is lost in a grey
foam, and there is nothing like a regular stream. But directly
we have ascended the terrace, M'e have suddenly before us once
MURDOI AND THE WANDOROBBO. 165
more the quiet Tana river, standing out darkly in the shadow
of the forest trees. From this point the Tana receives a
number of small tributar}^ streams coming from the north, from
the mountains. Along the stream, growing higher with each
day's journey, rises a chain of mountains, forming, perhaps, the
southern slope of the Emperor William Mountains, and which
I have named Bennigsen Chain.
To the south of the Tana we here arrive in a land which
till then was not marked on the maps, — Murdoi. About
fourteen miles beyond Hargazo this little country begins ; I
have not been able to determine its extension towards the south.
Here the Massai tribe of the Wandorobbo ranges with
Tile Wan-
its herds through the steppe, which, so far as I know, dorotijo
here alone rejoices in independence of the real Massais.
Between Wakamba and Gallas they roam over the country with
their great herds of oxen, sheep, goats, and asses, exhausting
■one pasturage after another. Like the Somalis below Oda-
Boru-Ruva, they likewise were compelled in the year 1889,
through the drought in the back districts, to keep, with their
herds, near the Tana ; — a piece of great good fortune for the
-German Emin Pasha Expedition. For some distance „
J^ Traces of
beyond Hargazo we had still come upon traces of Pigott's
Pigott's expedition. But suddenly these traces of *^^^
■encampment had ceased, and we had been able to ascertain that
the expedition had turned oflf towards the south. It had been
compelled to this by want of provisions. This fate we should
scarcely have experienced, as we still had some stores in hand,
and I should in no case have marched upon Mombas, but under
all circumstances should have tried to work my way through
to Ukamba Momoni, from thence to Ukamba Kitui, and Projected
so to the Baringo. Still the situation already began to '^°"*®-
be very embarrassing, as my people now only carried with them
a portion of the provisions that had been given them. Conse-
quently I felt a most lively interest in the footsteps which we
discerned for the first time on October 28th.
On the following day, when, to ascertain the way, I was
marching with the Gallas and a few Somalis in front of the
166 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
expedition, we suddenly saw female footsteps of the preceding^
Footsteps day, which led to a river ford. I now at once resolved
of women, jq make an end of the uncertainty I felt, through the
lack of all information concerning the countries in front of us.
If women had come to the river the day before, their tribe must
be in the immediate neighbourhood, for it would hardly have
allowed its most valuable possession, which was represented by
the women, to wander to any distance. Accordingly, it might be
assumed that the tribe, of whatever race it might form a part,,
to which these female footsteps belonged, must dwell in the
immediate neighbourhood of the river ford. This could also b&
conjectured from the many foot tracks of sheep and oxen which
covered the whole ford. Now these tribes used to drive their
herds to the water at aoon. It was now eleven o'clock. I deter-
waiting at mined, consequently, to let Herr von Tiedemann and the
the ford, column pass by, and to commission them to choose a
suitable camping -place, but myself to remain in ambush, with
a few soldiers and able-bodied Mangemas, around the ford, to
establish relations in this manner with the natives. My people
hid themselves in the thicket, and I seated myself, well hidden,
on a block of stone in the river ford itself. We had hardly been
there half an hour, after the departure and marching past of the
expedition, when suddenly the lively chattering of girls was
heard from the south. There were eleven girls, more or less
young, coming towards the Tana with water-pitchers. Suddenly
they were challenged, and great was their astonishment when they
saw me, an apparition such as they had never seen, rising out
of the bed of the river. With the help of the Gallas I succeeded
in ascertaining that they belonged to the Wandorobbo tribe,
ca ture of Strangely enough, they looked upon me with far more
Wandorobbo astonishment and curiosity than fear, and made nO'
sort of resistance when I made them understand that
they must follow me into my camp. That is the right of war
in these lands ; and the women know that, in surprises of this
kind, they run no peril of their lives.
I informed them that I should let them go immediately, if
their tribe, which for some days had kept timidly aloof from
A BRUSH WITH WAKAMBA WARRIORS. 167
US, would consent to communicate with me, for the sale
of food and the supplying of guides. After ahout Embassy
an hour's march I came upon our camp, and at once *" ti^s
sent away two of the girls with presents, to carry robbo."'
my proposals of peace to the Wandorobbo.
While they were away, fate decreed that the want of guides,
at least, should be supplied in a different manner. Suddenly
three new figures appeared in my camp — ^three young men of
lofty stature, completely naked, with only a piece of stuff
wound round the neck and hanging on the back, and each man
with a sort of travelling bag bound round his forehead with a
string. I requested them to draw near, which they wakamba
readily did. But so soon as they saw my Gallas, ■warriors,
they jumped up suddenly with long leaps, and wanted
to take to flight. I caused my Somalis to prevent them
from doing this, and had the three secured, for safety. They
were Wakamba warriors, from the Mumoni mountains, and
had gone out on a foraging expedition after female slaves.
They knew the lands before us very accurately, and I informed
them, in all friendship, that they were to have the kindness
to show us the way to Ukamba, where I would dismiss them
with presents. They had wanted to go slave-catching, and
were not at all agreeably surprised at having fallen into the
toils themselves. I was still pacifyins them on this „ .
^ •' ° Ominous
subject, when suddenly war cries and the rattle of sounds of
musketry were heard from the direction where a por-
tion of my Somalis had encamped with the camels. The
Wandorobbo, instead of entering mto friendly negotiations with
me, had preferred at once to attack my camp ; but they were
at once driven back with volleys from our repeating rifles,
and chased beyond view of our camps. Only one of them
was left dead on the field in this attempt.
I now sent away to the tribe two more of the women we had
brought home, with the intimation, that if they con- Dr. Peters'
tinned such foolish proceedings, I should make war with thrwan-
them on my part, and they would very soon have to dorobbo.
repent their rashness. If, however, they would live in friendship
1G8 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
\\\{\i me, I would at once send back the rest of their girls
to them. But I must insist, as I had guides from elsewhere,
that they should at least bring me a few sheep and goats for
sale. My column had been so excited by the occurrences
of the morning, that repeatedly, both by day and night,
the men allowed themselves to be startled by false alarms,
and rushed to entirely unrealised encounters with imaginary
enemies. At one time came the report that one of my porters
Adverse had been killed at the river by the Massais ; at another,
reports, q^q gf ^j^g j^en was firing blindly into the thicket,
because an enemy had been descried there. All this made
a very disagreeable impression, and, in consequence, I again
had a fence erected around the camp.
Towards three o'clock in the afternoon appeared the
ambassadors of the Wandorobbo, two wonderful apparitions,
to us who came from the east. They were entirely nude, with
their whole bodies besmeared with red clay, their hair artfully
The Wan- arranged in ringlets round the head, the quiver full
ambassa- of poisoned arrows, and the bow over their shoulders,
^'"^^- and the lance and Massai shield in their hands. The
feeling involuntarily arose, that we had now penetrated among
entirely new tribes, and into completely strange regions. While
among the Gallas there had always been a certain maintaining
of relations with the coast such relations were here entirely
absent, and there was not the slightest sign that these people
had ever seen Suaheli or Arabs, much less white men. The
Wandorobbo ambassadors brought out their demands in a loud.
Insolence ™perious toue, SO that I had to admonish them several
of their times to moderate their voices, as this shouting was not
and de- the way to my heart. They demanded that their girls
mands. should be given up ; I, on the other hand, declared,
I must first have my sheep ; and when they protested that
they had not the power to give me them, I ordered them, if
that were so, to come again the following morning, and to
Fortifying bring the sultan of the tribe with them. Not until then
the camp, ^guld I negotiate with them for the delivering up of
the women. I made use of the evening hours further to fortify
XeGuTIATION \VITH Tlli; ^\'A^'DMl;OBB^,)
HUNTING FOR A BREAKFAST. 169
the camp, and in the night I had good watch kept. But
■with the exception of a few false alarm shots, we remained
undisturbed.
I now wrote a last report for Europe, in which I related the
occurrences until the evening of this day, and especially my
discoveries on the Tana. I purposed next morning to send the
Gallas and the Wapokomo I had brought from Oda-Boru-Euva
back to their homes, and to get my packet to Europe
in this way, through the intervention of the second for
column, which might be coming up, or perhaps by the "'^°'^'
post messenger whom I expected with news from the coast.
They departed on the morning of October 30th, already
before sunrise, as the Gallas feared to be seen and killed by
the Wandorobbo or the Wakambas. As I was afterwards
informed by Herr Borchert, Parisa arrived home safely parisa's
at Oda-Boru-Ruva with his people, but did not deliver ^^si^ct.
any of the reports for Europe that had been sent by him. Early
in the morning I was gratified by the agreeable intelligence that
there was no meat for our breakfast, and that our private ser-
vants had had nothing to eat since yesterday. A very prospect of
charming piece of news, if we consider the complete fa™!"^-
isolation of such a position. It is certainly much more easy
to criticise, after the fact, the manner in which any one has
extricated himself from such a desperate situation, than to
manage extrication at the place itself.
I threw my gun over my shoulder and, that I might at
least do something for us, went forth from the camp, with my
servant Rukua, into the steppe to shoot. Two thin pigeons
were the entire result of my foray, from which I a useless
returned half dead with hunger two hours afterwards. *'''^°^-
The pigeons were as quickly forgotten as eaten. The Wando-
robbo question began, indeed, to become a burning one. Then,
towards eleven o'clock, the AVandorobbo elders at length ap-
peared before the camp, with the five sheep I had demanded.
After we had demonstrated and sworn, by spitting at each other
several times, that our intentions towards each other were good,
we entered upon the negotiation for exchanging the women
170 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
for the sheep. The Wandorobbo must have thought us veiy
bad men of business to give them back their women for the five
sheep. In these countries the price of a woman gene-
robbo nego- rally rises to fifty sheep; and according to African
bad bar- ideas 01 polity, our right oi possession was mde-
^*'"' feasible after the occurrences of the day before. Two
sheep were quickly slaughtered ; one of them was given to the
people, and one was consigned to the cauldrons for us and the
Somalis, and within an hour it had been consumed.
I now caused a start to be made, to get, as soon as possible,
to Ukamba Mumoni, which, according to the statements of the
Wakamba, lay only two or three days' journey before us. The
way lay through rugged bush and over some stony and ever-
rising ground. On the way I succeeded in killing a guinea-
Tbe order ^'o^f^, which I gave Nogola to carry. The march wag
of march, exceedingly fatiguing ; the camels, especially, could
only advance with difficulty, and every now and then they had
to be unloaded to climb up the heights. At four o'clock, as I
was marching at the head of the column, I discovered a ford
in the river, and determined to encamp there. I sent Nogola
to the chief column, to Herr von Tiedemann, to show him the
place, to which I myself proceeded with a few Somalis to
commence the work of clearing away, before pitching the camp.
Five o'clock came, the sun began to sink, and not a human
Anxiety for being appeared. I sent two Somalis back, and towards
the column, half-past five had the pleasure of seeing at least my
camels clambering down the steep declivity leading to the ford.
But where were the porters, and where was Herr von Tiede-
mann ? Towards six o'clock we succeeded in ascertaining that
the column had marched round the ford, and must be already
at a considerable distance to the west of us. The chief loads
belonging to my tent were with it— my camp bed and my
blankets. Whether I liked it or not, .1 had to make up my
mind to do without those articles for that night. But the prin-
A disagree- cipal task was to put myself into communication with
able nigbt. ^j^g ^j^^gf columu that same evening. I therefore sent
some reliable people behind the main body of the column, and.
THE FALL OF NOGOLA. 171
according to my custom, set fire to the bush forest on a hill to
the westward of us. At ten o'clock I had the satisfaction of
hearing a few dropping shots in the distance, and soon after-
wards several of the porters appeared with my private luggage,
which Herr von Tiedemann had sent to me for the night. Now
at least each of us knew where the other was encamped, so that
there was no difficulty about our meeting the next morning, as
I had directed Herr von Tiedemann to defer his departure until
I joined him.
Thus, as early as five o'clock next morning, we broke up
towards the south-west, and at about half-past seven I met Herr
von Tiedemann, who with his column was waiting for uogoia's
me, in readiness to march. Nogola, who was to blame misbehavi-
our and
for the mishap, had meanwhile been enjoying himself punish-
over my guinea-fowl. Perhaps he had only led the ™*" '
column round the ford at which I was encamped, to accom-
plish this in all quietness of mind. But the matter had a bad
ending for him. I administered an emetic to make him give up
the stolen goods as far as practicable, and, in addition, caused
him to receive twenty-five lashes, which were duly counted out
to him in the presence of all, as a warning and a lesson to the
whole community. The impudent fellow was, in addition, put
in chains for the rest of the day. From that time his position
in the caravan sank rapidly ; and he did not recover it to the
day of his death, which happened on the 22nd of the following
December.
On October 31st I pitched my camp in a glorious wood by
the Tana river. On that day I had repeatedly met Wandorobbos
on the road, and I invited them to visit me, and to bring wandorobbo
me sheep for sale. In spite of all that had happened, i'lsoience.
the whole set of them were, and remained, brazen and impudent.
When, on the march, I took hold of one of these people with my
crooked stick by one of the earholes that hung down to his
shoulders, because he would not come on, he tried, in return, to
seize me by the ears too. But as we sat at table the chief of
the Wandorobbo appeared in my camp. This was reported to
me in my tent. I rose from the dinner table, and went out to
172 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
him to ask him where the sheep were, that I had ordered. He
replied that the sheep would come on the morroM' or the day
Visit from after. Now this, it will he allowed, is very cold com-
the Wan- jf-^j.^ when one has a hungry column to provide for,
chief, and has oneself hardly meat enough left for one day.
Consequently, I explained to the Sultan that this delay was not
according to my wish, as I proposed to march forward the next
day, and that he must remain in the camp until his trihe fur-
nished the sheep. Hereupon on a sudden he raised his loud
. war-howl, like the cry of the jackal ; and in a moment
Attack with ^ u '
poisoned the poisoued arrows of the Wandorobbo came flying
arrows. ^^^^ ^^^, camp from every direction. One of them struck
into my trousers, and was within an ace of killing me. I at once
had the Sultan knocked down, and fettered ; then took him
by the ears, and shoved him in front of me, as a kind of shield,
towards the shooting Wand orobbos. I forbade my people to fire
on these people, as I wished to have peace with them.
As they did not like, of course, to shoot at their Sultan,
they were obliged also to pause ; and by signs, with the help of
a few broken words of their language, I contrived to announce
A peace to the Sultau, and through him to his people, that if
patched up. |jy ^j^g evening they brought me five sheep and four
donkeys, I would deliver up their Sultan to them, and give
them stuifs for clothes. This treaty was sealed before the people
by my spitting several times at the Sultan, while he spat at me ;
and the Wandorobbos withdrew to bring the ransom for their
chief, who remained with me. Quite friendly relations were
established in the course of the afternoon between myself and
him ; and when, in the evening, no donkeys, indeed, but
eight sheep made their appearance, I presented the chief and
several of his principal men with red clothing material, and
dismissed them, unharmed, to their people.
Next morning I expected to see the Wandorobbo once more,
Expiora- ^ccordiug to agreement made on the previous evening,
tions along to buy more meat from them. Not to let the time
the Tana. -i i • • i
until their arrival pass by unused, I went with Hussein
Fara and Rukua along the upward course of the Tana, to find
FALLING INTO A TRAP. 173-
out if there were a way for the camels, in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the river, h}^ which I might escape the tiring
devious road through the steppe, as I should have to come
back to the river in the evening. After a reconnaissance of
two or three hours, we ascertained, to our discomfiture, that
there existed no such way along the river, as the rocks here
began to offer a steep descent towards the rushing Tana. I
returned to the camp, and was just passing through the dry
bed of an affluent from the south, which poured its waters into
the Tana during the rainy season — we were in the middle of this
watercourse — when suddenly nearly a hundred figures of Wando-
robbo sprang up before me out of the thicket, with their Threatened
arrows ready to shoot. I was going to withdraw from thl^^an^
these disagreeable neighbours into the bush on the other dorobbo.
side of the river bed, when Wandorobbo rose up there also, and
suddenly the side of the river towards the Tana was likewise
lined with them. I had managed to fall into a trap, and these
gentlemen might now have taken their revenge for yesterday.
I did not, however, let them perceive my embarrassment, but
laughed in friendly fashion, and beckoned with my hand to ask
them to wait a moment, while with a face of apparent amuse-
ment I approached a tree on the upper side of the dry river
course. So soon as I had reached this, I pulled out my Atemporis-
rifle, which was in its case, and made ready to fire, at ^^^ p"^^''^-
the same time continually waving tufts of grass in the air as
a sign of peace, this being apparently everywhere the accepted
international African form. I now made the Wandorobbo
understand that my servant Rukua should hasten into my camp
to bring presents for them; and that in return I expected a
present of sheep from them.
Rukua accordingly hurried into camp with the order to
bring the presents, and twelve of my soldiers besides. As the
.poison of the Wandorobbo arrows, which they prepare from
the bark of a tree, is immediately fatal, my position during the
ensuing three-quarters of an hour was not the pleasantest.
The Wandorobbo continually tried, though perhaps not with
hostile intentions, to get nearer to me ; and I as continually
174 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
motioned them to stay where they were until the presents ar-
rived. At length my soldiers appeared, and the position
arrival of of affairs was altered. I placed my soldiers in a half-
circle behind me, with their repeaters prepared ; then I
put down my own rifle, and made the Sultan of the Wandorobbo,
my friend of yesterday, understand that he also should lay aside
Solemn his ^ow and arrows, and give me a personal meeting
agreement, jjj ^jjg ^^^[[(jie of the dry river bed. After we had spat
three times at each other, there was no further danger of an
attack at this place ; and we now arranged that the Wan-
dorobbo should bring ten sheep to a cleared space by the river
above my camp ; in return for which, I undertook for them
that they should be allowed, without molestation from us, to
drive their flocks to water at the ford, which I could command
from my camp. I also promised them some fine clothing stuffs
as presents. We shook hands upon it ; on which occasion
Eatifioa- i^^ither I nor the Sultan omitted, as a sign of the
tion by honesty of our arrangements, each to spit into his own
hand, which is, indeed, the recognised form of greeting
among friends in all the Massai tribes. We spat once more in
each other's face, and thereupon parted good friends, each going
his own way.
On arriving at the camp, I at once ordered the camels, with
Herr von Tiedemann, round the bush forest into the steppe. I
would only wait, with a part of my people, for the ten sheep
promised by the Wandorobbo, and then quickly follow the
camels, which marched but slowly. Accordingly, I betook
myself, with ten or twelve men, to the clearing by the river,
wando- where the Wandorobbo also appeared immediately
Ind eva^j'*^°afterwards. But they had not yet brought the sheep,
sions. First, we must eat liver together, they said, as a sign
that our nations, the Germans at home and the Wandorobbo in
Murdoi, were at peace, and then they would give me the ten
TJnjus- sheep. The sun began to burn hot ; and, as the Wan-
encroach- dorobbo Commenced taking all kinds of liberties,—
ments. demanding that I should show them my breast, and
pull off my boots, with various other jests of the kind, — I
DEALINGS WITH THE WANDOROBBO. 175
became considerably angry, because I had no inclination to
creep through among these tribes, in the clowning manner of
Thomson. Accordingly, I forbade their bold proceedings in a
sufficiently rough tone, and sent them away with the injunction
to bring the sheep at once, or I should no longer recognise our
■compact of the morning.
My humour became none the more rosy when I suddenly
saw the camels come marching back from the side of the river.
Herr von Tiedemann had not found any road. It was plain,
accordingly, that I must remain to-day in the same
1 ITT f -I r. An enforced
place ; and i only transterred my camp from the forest encamp-
into the clearing where I was, that I might be nearer ^^'^^'
to watch the development of events that would no doubt take
place at the ford. The tents were pitched, and I sat down with
Herr von Tiedemann to our scanty meal, when suddenly the
Somalis came rushing, with very disturbed looks, into the tent,
and told us the Wandorobbo were driving an immense Excited
number of cattle to the river. The Somalis always p°^gp^^^'g ^^
looked disturbed, when they saw cattle in other men's plunder,
hands ; but here especially, because the Godsend was so well
within their reach, and they were in a hungry condition. In
mere absence of mind five of them had brought twenty kids
into my camp, which, as they averred, they had "found" by
the river. Inasmuch as such a manner of keeping treaties does,
not generally square with our German ideas, I stood up from
table, and myself brought the twenty kids to the Wandorobbo up
the river, where these people were certainly driving herd after
herd to the water, and away again. As a proof of my friendly
intentions, I had only brought two men with me, and for myself
I had my six-shooting revolver in my pocket. Now I ,^ ^^^^ ^^
had the clothes stuffs brought, to redeem my promise city" to be
with regard to the presents; but I demanded, once more,
that the Wandorobbo should deliver to me the promised ten sheep.
With discontented faces they at last brought up five at their
Sultan's orders. One of these was at once slaughtered, Renewed
the liver was taken out, and without much ceremony p^*"^-
laid in the fire, whereupon each of us received a piece of it to
176 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
eat. xVud herewith the treaty of peace was sealed between the
German nation, as such, and the \Yandorobbo.
I now once more demanded my ten sheep, and became
somewhat suspicious when I noticed that the warriors, or
Ehnoran, of the Wandorobbo began to snigger, and that some
figures posted themselves near me, on the left, in the bush.
The Wandorobbo refused my pieces of stuff, and I said I would
send to my camp, and have a load of iron wire brought, which
Measures of they would perhaps prefer. I sent Hussein Fara into
aglinst"'" the camp with a note to Herr von Tiedemann, in which
treachery. J requested him to come, with thirty men, to our place
of council, and ordered the Somalis immediately to start for
the dry ford, which they were to occupy some distance up, and,
at a trumpet signal from me, to drive as many head of cattle
as they could get together into our camp ; and directly they
had secured a herd they were to fire a shot, that I might know
what was going on.
Herd after herd belonging to the Wandorobbo went away
from the river ; when the last had quitted the water-side, the
people suddenly let three of the five sheep there go, so that only
one very skinny specimen remained for me. All at once an
Tokens of arrow flew past my ear. I coolly rose, and called out
hostility. J.Q them, " Take care of yourselves, you dogs ! " and
quietly had my things packed up, and ordered them to be
carried back into the camp. Hussein Fara soon reappeared
with the intelligence that my orders were being executed, and
Herr von Tiedemann presently came marching along with thirty
men. Now I suddenly caused the trumpet to be blown, and
quietly fell back upon my camp. When my people came hurry-
ing up, the Wandorobbo disappeared with one accord into the
Herr bush. I requested Herr von Tiedemann to follow them
m^nn'^s'^^' through the clearing and the dry river bed, which
position, he was to occupy M'ith his thirty men. Then, on my
side, I went back quietly into the camp, when suddenly the
shot I was so anxiously awaiting rang out from the bush. I
immediately ordered the people who had remained in camp to
get up a fence for the cattle that Heaven was going to send us.
PLENTY OF PROVISIONS. 177
then sat down in my tent to a cup of tea and cognac, and took
up " Mommsen." I had been sitting there for about twenty
minutes, when there came a trampling like an approaching
cavalry attack, sheep and goats jumping along merrily in a
crowd, and a donkey also had "strayed" over to us — soTheSomaiis
the Somalis reported, who came running behind them u^jr^y*^,,
in a state of enthusiastic excitement. The sheep were ''*"'^'
now driven to the water, and surrounded by my people, till the
fence was finished. After about ten minutes came also Herr
von Tiedemann, who was to have taken the Wandorobbo, if
necessary, between two fires ; he had not got sight of one
Wandorobbo. He was naturally highly delighted when he saw
the sheep.
Now we settled down to a mighty slaughtering and feasting.
To every five men a sheep was given, and to every two men a
kid. Joy, jovial dancing, and merry songs were the order of
the day. We had two hundred and fifty sheep in our ^vaiuaWe
possession, and with this there was an end, once and'"''^-
for all, of famine in the German Emin Pasha Expedition. The
pleasurable part for me, in the occurrences of this day, was
that, in the first place, no human blood had been spilt, and,
secondly, that I felt myself, morally, entirely in the right in
the measures I had put in action.
In the night I had the camp well watched, and now and
then I ordered rockets to be thrown up over the bushes. But
these measures of precaution proved to be superfluous. The
Wandorobbo, who, as I heard from Wakamba, were under
belief that the fiend himself had personally, and with a great
following, appeared in their land and among them, — to
which conclusion they were brought especially by the contem-
plation of my broad-brimmed flapped hat, and also probably
of the black shining spectacles in which I was accustomed to
appear at the conferences— vanished in the darkness of night,
going down stream with their herds. I never set eyes upon
them afterwards.
Next morning I wished to cross the Tana at this place, as
Herr von Tiedemann shared the opinion with the Somalis, that
12
178 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
outside the bush forest there was no road up the stream, on
the right bank of the Tana. For that reason I caused my
people to go through the river, which was very broad here, in
The Tana ; the early morning, to ascertain if it was fordable for
tion'lT^' us at this spot. Strangely enough, from the earliest
lords. morning this November 2nd, a continuous rising of
the Tana occurred, so that already in the afternoon the whole
sandy cleared space by the brink, where the negotiations of the
former day had taken place, was under water, and in the night
the Avater penetrated into our camp. My people lost all relish
for working in the Tana, on the sudden approach of a row of
suspicious dark objects, which were soon identified as so many
crocodiles. I was able, indeed, to scare these creatures away
from the surface with bullets from my rifle, but hardly altogether
to banish them from the vicinity.
So from nine o'clock I devoted myself, with entire zeal, to
constructing a raft, for which I made my people bring fifty
trunks of trees, as uniform in size as possible. Towards twelve
o'clock the raft was finished ; but when I made the attempt,
Attem ^^^^ quite alone, to trust myself to the currents with
cross with it, the heavy wood sank beneath the surface. The
a raft .
trial resulted in complete failure. Now there was
nothing for it, but to devote the remainder of the day to finding
a way for my caravan on our side of the Tana. I sent the
best of my people out on this business, and they succeeded
in establishing the possibility of a march for the next day.
On the morning of November 3rd we therefore started with
beat of drum, always up hill, up hill, through bush and forest.
But still we made progress, and, what was most fortunate, our
flock of sheep and goats got forward with us cheerily enough.
Marching ^^^ *^^^^ herds are accustomed to nomadic wander-
with the ings, and must therefore not be judged entirely by a
European standard. From this time, during the whole
further course of the expedition, I carried herds along with me.
Thus the sordid care for the body's food and nourishment was
removed. We could look forward with pleasure to the march,
the arrival in camp, and dinner, instead of contemplating with
CHEERFUL TIMES OF RECREATION. 179
a kind of horror this arrival, and the ugly scenes that would be
associated with it. Herewith the advance assumed a much
more pleasant character. The heavy wrong the Englishmen
had done us in Lamu, by the confiscation of our articles of
barter, had in some degree been remedied by Providence, and I
began to get rid, more and more, of the doubt as to the definite
accomplishment of my task.
On this day I encamped by a beautiful cataract of the
Tana, just beneath the fall, near a ford of the river, so that,
if we wished, we could enjoy the refreshing rain of spray in
front of our tent. On the other side of the Tana the Bennigsen
chain day by day exhibited more imposing forms, cheerful
Lovely bush forest surrounded my camping-place, in oFthe*
which a cheerful busy life appeared, for the people ""^"it^y-
were now in good humour, in consequence of winning the
herds. On this day I again wrote reports for Germany, in
which I described our adventures with the Wandorobbo.
I was busy with this task, when all at once the Mangema
Barakka, surrounded by his followers, came rushing into my
tent with loud howls. My people were accustomed regularly
to fill up the afternoon hours with fishing. Barakka also had
drawn forth with the hook from the cooling flood a ^ , ,
^ Barakka's
great, a very great, inhabitant of the Tana. But the formidable
fish, taking the joke in evil part, had bitten Barakka
soundly in the finger. \Yhen a black man sees blood he thinks
it his duty to howl, and the people were very much astonished
at my not taking the affair tragically ; and it was certainly not
tragic, for a little chloride of iron suflSced to stop the bleeding.
In the night a heavy storm drew up, the rolling thunder
mingling harmoniously with the sound of the waterfall — the
first practical token that the short rainy season was at hand.
The landscape became more and more magnificent, g^.^
the onward sweep of the Tana more turbulent, ever indications
^ . ' , of the
more majestic the forms of the mountains and the rainy
primeval forest that surrounded us. The Tana here =^^^'"'-
rushes downward through short stretches in mighty cataracts
to the depths. Terrace after terrace were we obliged to climb.
180 X!-:]]' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Every day wo mounted more than three hundred feet. We were
surrounded by all the mysterious glamour of the wilderness.
We were out of Murdoi, and no trace of a human being was
visible in the bush forest we were traversing. There M^ere
certainly paths, but they were the clean tracks the hippopo-
tamus makes, and which always led back to the river. Here
the rhinoceros breaks himself a road through the bushes,
and ni2:ht after nisht the lion roars and the hyena
In the 1 .11 1
pathless howls arouiid our camp. And the south-west mon-
soon, rushing through the tree-tops, shouted the chorus
to these voices of the animal world, and the Tana growled in
unison, in such measure that we often felt the rocks on its
banks trembling under our feet. A mighty concert it
animal was in its coucord of sounds ; the world could hardly
ing om. Y\g^xQ found a more magnificent voice. In memory
these noble and stately sounds still echo through the soul.
On November 4th, as I was examining a place near the
Tana, with respect to its accessibleness, I was within a hair's
breadth of stumbling over a lion, who, however, decamped with
The lion the utmost Speed. This time, again, I had not my
Mppopo- ^'^fl^ ^^th ^®' ^^'^ could therefore get no shot at him.
tamus. This region on the Tana swarms with thousands, one
might almost say with hundreds of thousands of hippopotami.
They sometimes lay so crowded together in the stream that it
appeared possible to walk across to the other side of the river
on their heads. But any inclination to attempt such a feat
vanished in view of the fact that their good friends the crocodiles
were present in equally large numbers, often lying peaceably near
them on a sandbank, or asleep on a slab of rock in the river.
The}' often became a mark for my trusty double-barrelled rifle,
but I never succeeded in killing one of these crocodiles, though
I killed several hippopotami.
On November 6th, at eight in the morning, we reached the
waterfall Kiloluma, where the road from Mombas leads through
Ukamba Mumoni over the Tana to Mbe, and further east, past
the Kenia, to Lorian.* This place it was that led Krapf to
* I need scarcely observe that under tlie term " caravan road," a road
GRANDEUR OF THE LANDSCAPE. 181
assert that Wakamba had told Mm they had crossed the river
Kiloluma to go to Mbe ; to Avhich I attribute the whole erro-
neous theory of the tributary river Kiloluma falling j,^^^^^^^^
into the Tana. Already half an hour before Ave reached theory
the Kiloluma we could feel the rocks trembling beneath KiMuma
us ; and in truth, standing above the falls and look- "''^'''
ing down into the yawning gulf that the tumbling mass of
waters has opened there, is like gazing into the pit of hell.
Yet this waterfall is not by any means the greatest on the
Tana ; we were destined to see very different ones. As in
most cases, it appears in the form of several cataracts, one
over another, of which the loftiest may be about eighty feet
high. But the mass of waters in the Tana is so colossal that
these falls represent a force which I am unable to estimate
according to " horse -power," but its capacity must The great
be enormous. By this roaring cataract we spent the cataract,
whole of November 6th. Unfortunately, the bridge on the way
to Mbe, of which we still saw some traces, had been swept
away by the rising waters of the Tana. We pushed some of the
beams down into the whirlpool. It was interesting to observe
how the beam at first disappeared altogether, and then, after a
long interval, reappeared in the whirlpool on the opposite bank.
It must have been five minutes before it came to the surface.
I visited the principal whirlpool with Herr von Tiedemann and
Hussein Fara, in the afternoon, towards sunset. Hussein Fara
was of opinion that it was just like in the Somaliland, Hussein
an assertion he was in the habit of making when compari-
anything struck him as grand. His exact meaning I ^°^^-
could not quite understand, as in the Somali country there are
neither such rivers, nor, in all probability, any cataracts. He
made the same observations at a later period, when he came to
visit me in Berlin, and lived at the Kaiserhof Hotel. He said
that was quite like in Somaliland !
according to European notions is not to be understood. It is a little track,
running through the bushes, on which, every couple of years or so, a Mombas
caravan or a company of native Wakamba takes its way. The " road " does
not much contribute to enliven the landscape.
182 NE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Next day we made a long march, and had throughout
the afternoon to endure a pelting fall of rain, which set in
regularly, and was repeated almost daily for the next month
and a half. On this day, we first came again upon
of inhabited traces of men. My people thought they descried in the
districts. ^|jg^a^j^(.y "shambas" (plantations), and the pleasant
expectation was strengthened in the afternoon by the appear-
ance of two Wakamba, who said that on the morrow we
should reach inhabited districts.
According to my custom, I kept these visitors in the camp
through the night. But as I did not like, on the following
morning, to lead them back to their countrymen bound
Securing ° p i
the with cords, they got away, with one of the ^Yakamba
a am a. J ^^^ brought with me from Murdoi, as soon as I set
my column in motion. On November 7tli I felt slightly indis-
posed, which occasioned me to take strong doses of ipecacuanha,
and in a few hours I had quite recovered. On this day also the
Somali, Daud Wais, fell sick with dysentery, from which he
suffered till the end of the expedition. The land we approached
on the following morning was, to my astonishment, not
Ukamba, as I was obliged to assume from the maps, but the
The land of land of Dsagga, which stretches out, in lovely ranges
Dsagga. of noble outline, over the Tana. The land is richly
cultivated, and makes a most picturesque appearance, with
its little villages, built in the Swiss style, and surrounded
with strong circumvallations. It is situated in front of the
Bennigsen Mountains, and to a certain extent corresponds
with Kikuyu, which lies in front of the plateau, only that iu
Kikuyu the mountain chains are higher, and the air is in
consequence still more pure.
The Wadsagga, again, are Bantu, and closely related to the
Wakamba and the Wakikuyu, as also to the people of Mbe, with
The Wad- whom they posscss a common language. According
sagga trihe. tQ enquiries made by Krapf, the Wakamba are said
formerly to have had their dwellings on the Kilima-Ndsharo,
and to have been driven thence towards the north by the
Massais. Perhaps this has to do with the similarity of sound
THE WADf^AGGA TRIBES.
183
in the names Dsagga and Dshagga at the Kilima-Ndsliaro
The foremost tribes, in this emigration, made their way across
the Tana forward into a region which by those w])o dwelt
behind it was called Mbere, Mbele, or Mbe (Iront). This is the
laud that stretches from Dsagga along the left bank of the
Tana, and belongs to tribes of quite the same race as Ukamba.
The Wadsasrra, like the "Wakamba, have some- „. , ,
'~'~ . High Dreeding
thing of high blood in their demeanour. They and haughtiness
f\f I'll A ^JV Jl fl ^ fl P^ P* R.
love to deck themselves in chivalrous st_yle, to
ornament themselves with feathers, and to wear on their feet l)its
of iron which clink like spurs at every step.
Their women are voluptuous, cheer-
ful looking creatures, plentifully
adorned with beads and rings. I'hey
werefond of promenading saucily with
their adorers in front of our encanij)-
ment, to have their beauty admired.
Into this country also, no know-
ledge of white men had yet pene-
trated. I believe they did not
know even Arabs or Wangwana.
They took our guns for cudgels,
and when they looked at our
leet, clad in high boots, they
began to laugh aloud ; for they
thought we had thrust our feet
into donkeys' legs that we
might marcli the better, or that we ourselves had donkeys
leet. On the declivities of the charmingly-situated laud long
ranges of ]ilantations ai)pear, between which great herds and
flocks, oxen, sheep, and goats are pasturing in peaceiul a primitive
smmy groups. The whole scene, with the Tana tra- '=°'"'^'^'^' y-
versing it, makes an idyllic impression; and when, on November
Sth, we encountered these people for the first time, we thouglit
we had come upon a " peaceful shei)herd tribe."
This impression was very quickly altered when I entered
into commercial relations with them anent the purchase of
WADSAGQA.
184
\i:\r LKriir o.v jiauk afiuca.
orain. T asked tliem to I'urnish nie ^Yith a oreat bulk of grain
nt (UK-o, ami in return I was ready to make a proportionate
in'esent. liut as all monarchical unity was wanting here,
Egotistical ^ i • 'i i t i •
ideas of it was not possible to eiitorce this deniand. iLacn lu-
''''"^'' divi(hial lirouglit a little pot or a little l)nii(lle ol'mtama,
for winch he asked his own utterly exorbitant price. As 1 was,
aboye eyeiything, in urgent want of strong food for my riding
hoise and the camels, I at last made short
\^ork of it, by taking possession of
he grain that had been brought, and
paying an entirely a(k'<|nate price for
it in cloth. At this there arose a
great outcry, so that, to ayoid a
l)reach of tht' peace, I had the
whole comjtaiiy turned out of the
camp. For all that, our relations
coutmued to be of the most friendly
kind. TheWadsagga, of their own
accord, proyided a, guide, who was
to lead us as far as Mbe, so tliat I
could now dismiss, with rich gifts,
Mkamba, whii Avas still with me ;
antl on the morning of Noyember
!)th we went forth, amid friendly
greetings from all sides, through
the beautiful land ; — now past yil-
lages from which men and Wfjnien
rushed forth to gaze at ns ; then on well-kept woodland paths,
upliill and downhill, nntil towards noi.m ayc came into a second
district of the Dsasiiia land. Before we crossed the
Marcn ■- ' .
through the Iron tit'r, hundreds of the Wadsagga, who had now
coun ly. gj.Q^yjj (phte confidential, took leaye of us, and we
marched into the second district, under the impression that we
should be able to trayerse the whole country as friends, and
thus might reach ^Ibe in the most agreeable manner. Beyond
Mbe, we were told, there was a ford of the riyer, which I
desiy'ned to cross.
WADSAC4GA.
THREATENING OF A STORM. 185
When I entered the second district of Dsagga, b)^ way of a
high hill that sloped gradually down, I saw on the other side of
the shore a great mountain, which ]-emained in sight The xrupp
as a landmark for us for days afterwards. The Ben- ^o^^tain.
nigsen chain, which had run, as far as this mountain, in a south-
south-west du-ection, here deviated a little towards the west, and
ran south-west, so that the mountain we had seen stands at the
angle of the range. I decided to name it the Krupp Mountain,
and encamped opposite it, at one in the afternoon, by a ford
of the Tana. Presently numerous Wadsagga came in ; their
insolence of manner, in communicating with us, at once , ,
° Insolence
impressed me disagreeably. I asked them to bring of the
food for us to purchase, within an hour ; but immedi- * ^^^^^'
ately learned, to my complete astonishment, that one of my
porters, Ajabajir, who was somewhat unwell, and consequently
had been marching in the rear of the column, had disappeared,
having probably been captured by the Wadsagga. To get at
the truth of this I immediately sent back some soldiers, who
presently returned bringing me a confirmation of the news.
We were just sitting at breakfast, when it was suddenly
announced that the gentlemen Wadsagga had set about driving
off my five donkeys. They had indeed been put to ,
•I . . Aggression
flight by prompt action on the part of the Somalis ; and re-
but the intention of paying no respect t'O our rights of
property was apparent enough. In this condition of affairs 1
determined to take vigorous measures, and replied by giving
my men the order to drive as many head of cattle from the
surrounding pastures into my camp, as they could get posses-
sion of without a breach of the peace. The command was
promptly obeyed, and by half-past four we had six hundred
sheep and about sixty oxen in the enclosure. The herdsmen
had been driven away by a few shots fired in the air.
Towards sunset one of the patriarchal elders of the district
came to the camp, begging from afar for peace. As it ^ ^^^^_
seemed hardly possible to keep the someAvhat unruly seeking
oxen with us through the night, I sent the greater number
of them back to the elder, with the remark, "He should have
186 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
peace." If he wanted to treat, he must come to me next morn-
ing. In the morning, accordingl)', the old and really venerable-
looking man made his appearance, with a few younger warriors.
I took him to task, and asked how the Wadsagga had dared to
carry off one of my people and to try to drive away my donkeys.
I told him, before I would negotiate further with him he must
A categoric deliver up my man, and that I further wished the
demand. ^Yadsagga to bring corn for my beasts of burden. I
had already, yesterday, ordered them to do this, but not a grain
had been voluntarily brought in. The elder thereupon departed,
but returned about one o'clock in the day, when I was just re-
turning from an excursion in the neighbourhood ; he brought
with him nothing but my porter's gun. Accompanying him
was a personage, who, for weeks afterwards, was one of the
principal figures in my expedition. This was Marongo, a tall
lanky Mkamba, who had come from Ukamba to Dsagga to buy
beer, with a little bundle of things, which was still lying in the
. . hands of the Wadsagga, and a mouth that stretched
An acquisi- . tt- p • j i
tiou for the almost Irom ear to ear. His lace was characterised by
a half crafty, half good-natured expression about the
eyes, and his arms swung to and fro by his sides, extending
down almost to his knees. The man spoke a little Kiswahali,
and consequently at once excited in me a desire to secure him
for my expedition, so that the wearisome exchange of broken
words and pantomimic systems of conversation might cease.
I gave the elder one of my jackets with red and white
squares, which I put on him myself. To my inquiry con-
Dr.Peters's earning Ajabajir, he replied, he thought he could
complaint, i^iform me that the man was no longer with him ;
he had fled to the Wakamba, but here was his rifle. I
informed the elder that I did not believe his assertion, and
once more complained that no grain had yet come. I said
I had wished for peace with the M^adsagga, but they seemed
to prefer war. If that were so, they could also have war.
Then we sat down to table, while the Sultan, with Marongo
and the Wadsagga, remained sitting outside the tent. Then I
went and sat down with them again, whereupon the peripettia
STRONG MEASURES SUCCESSFUL. 187
of the whole incident came quicklj-. Suddenly Morango
hegan to talk,, in the elder's name, of sheep that I was to
deliver up. "What sheep?" I asked. "Well, the sheep
that had been driven into my camp yesterday evening."
Thereupon I replied, that he had seized Ajabajir yesterday,
adding, " And to-day, when I want to have him back, . , .
•^ 'A plam
you say that he has run away to the A^ akamba. Now statement
I will tell you, that is exactly the state of things ° *" ^'
with your sheep. I am afraid that your sheep will also run
away to Wakamba with me. If you bring Ajabajir back,
there can be a council held to decide what is to be done with
the sheep that are in my hands. If you don't do this, the
matter will remain as it is. We can even then part in
peace if you wish it. If you do not wish it, you may do
what you can." All at once the Wadsagga sprang up, seized
their spears, and hurried out of the camp.
As Marongo was also about to follow them, I asked him,
through my Somalis, to stay, as I should want him for the
further negotiations. After some resistance, he yielded „
o ' J Marongo
to necessity with a good grace, only asking that his submits to
llis fSit^G
bundle should be obtained for him from the Wadsagga.
I now dismissed the Wadsagga guides, as Marongo knew the
way to Mbe, and at once sent off five men to the Wadsagga
to have his bundle brought into my camp. I had no fore-
boding of evil ; and as the sun was shining hotly down, I
seated myself in my tent to pass my Sunday afternoon in
quiet. All at once my people rushed into the tent, and an-
nounced to me that the Wadsagga were attacking our herds,
and already advancing upon the camp from the other sides.
At the same moment I also heard firing from the direction
of the herds, and saw my embassy of five men running in
headlong flight from the opposite side, towards the camp.
With a force of more than a thousand men, the Wad- ^^^^^^.^ ^
sagga attacked our camp on every side. I entrusted the wad-
Herr von Tiedemann with the command on the upper ^*^^*'
side of the river, and threw myself, with a few people, upon
the enemies who came crowding up from the lower side.
188 XE\r LiailT ox DARK AFRICA.
Suddenly the \\'adsagga came to understand what sort of cudgels
our guns were. A row of them came tumbling head over heels
clown the hill ; the others stopped bewildered ; but as man after
man was picked off, they turned suddenly back, and took to
flight wildly. (3n the other side, also, Herr von Tiedemann
succeeded in making an end of the affair, and in half an hour
all was decided. Behind a hill in the south-west, the Wadsagga
collected like ants whose nest has been destroyed. The sun
was already low in the west, and I considered it more prudent
to conclude the whole affair by daylight, than to run the risk
of being roused up once more at night by an attack.
Therefore I took some twenty of my people, leaving the
command of the camp to Herr von Tiedemann, and determined
to attack the hill on which the Wadsagga then were. Below
the camp, a deep rain gully or stream ran into the Tana. Along
this we noiselessly crept, as it went in the direction of the
hill aforesaid. But we must have been observed ; for as we
crept up the hill, at the back, it was suddenly deserted. I
now turned towards the neighbouring villages of the Wadsagga,
to give them a serious lesson before the night came on. At
our approach the villages, too, were speedily deserted. I
Reprisals Ordered everything that could be of value to us to
on the foe. ^^g quickly taken out, and had six of these villages
set on fire, one after another. It appeared to me necessary to
make the people understand cest la guerre, because the safety
of our further march depended, in the last instance, entirely
upon this. When the sun went down, the glare of the flames
spread over the wide hilly region, plainly discernible from
the camp, where our column was naturally watching these
occurrences with the keenest interest.
Heavily laden, I returned with my band to the camp, from
which the other, people came forth singing and dancing to
meet me. I was able that night to feed my beasts of burden,
The"Kii- and also to distribute some grain to the column,
sharo'' ^^w the state of mind arose more and more in my
feeling. camp which I was accustomed to call the " Kupanda-
Sharo " feeling. Kupanda-Sharo, that is to say, climber of
HOSTILE DEMONSTRATIONS. 189
mountains, was the name which I had borne from the beginning
of my expedition, and which is now becoming more and more
known among the native tribes. M_v people had composed
special songs upon this name, and these thej- were accustomed
to sing upon such occasions as the present, especially the
Wanjamwesi girls. I remember how, on that very evening,
one of these girls, as she husked the corn, sang a song of
which the burden always was : " Others have nothing to eat ;
Kupanda-Sharo gives us to eat."
From this time I could count more and more on the com-
pletely reliable spirit in the expedition, at least among the
great majority. This evening I prepared a spectacle for the
people, by having the last load of petroleum poured ^ grand
over a dried mimosa bush, and setting it on fire. ^°^^^^-
On the morning of this day one of the porters' wives had
given birth to a child, and therefore I had consented to
encamp for a day opposite Krupp Mountain. But next morn-
ing before sunrise we were on our onward path towards the
south-west for Ukamba, which I hoped to reach the same
day. Of the AVadsagga at first nothing was to be seen. But
soon, first singly, then in hundreds, they popped up on the
hills to right and left of us, following our track like jackals,
to see if they could not find an opportunity to attack us.
During the whole marching day there was skirmishing, and
the rattle of the guns never ceased. Unfortunately the Wad-
sagga succeeded in capturing the above-mentioned porter's wife,
who could not keep up with us, and carried her otf with her
child. A bloody retribution was exacted ; but a loss Rgt^ibu-
of this kind, to a hostile tribe, is always very painful ^^^^^^^l
to the feelings of a leader. Whatever villages of the
\Yadsagga could be reached during the march were set on
fire. At twelve o'clock, the procession was moving through
a narrow pass. I thought the Wadsagga had at length gone
back, and therefore galloped my horse from the rear to the
head of the column, to find out a suitable place for our camp.
But just in front of this defile the Wadsagga were lying in
ambush, and were within a hair's breadth of succeeding in
190 ^'EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
driving off our herd of cattle. The attempt only failed through
the cleverness of the Somalis in driving the beasts. The
herd was made to rush at a wild gallop through the narrow
pass, which Herr von Tiedemann meanwhile covered with a
few Somalis.
I found a very suitable camping-place in a deserted planta-
tion, into which I threw myself with my caravan. As the
Wadsagga immediately occupied all the heights round about,
I caused a circuit of one of these heights to be undertaken
by the Somalis, under the leadership of Hussein. So soon as
the volleys from our repeating rifles flew among the "Wadsagga
from the rear, causing some of them who were perched
in the in the trees to descend involuntarily to the earth with
^^^^^' unwonted celerity, they abandoned the field in the most
violent haste, and were seen no more. Only on the hill towards
the west, a company of Wadsagga remained standing for the
rest of the day. After dinner I myself went towards this
post ; but the people there sent to ask me why we were always
shooting at them, inasmuch as they had no war against us.
" Why are you perched up there ? " I called up to them.
" Because," they cried, " we are at war with the Wakamba,
who are on the other side of the hill, and we are defending
ourselves against them." "Oh, indeed," I called up, "then I
wish you a pleasant afternoon ! "
With the Wadsagga on the other side of the river peace was
also concluded at midday. They declared, likewise, that they
Peace and ^^^ nothing at all to do with the Wadsagga tribe with
fair whom We were at war. They would be our friends,
and would show us the way to Ukamba next morning.
It was a marvellously beautiful afternoon that we passed in this
plantation. Just like the mountains of the Danube between
Passau and Vienna, the western continuation of the Bennigsen
chain here stretches along the stream.
On the opposite side, up the stream, mountains extended to
the Tana, filling me with a certain disquietude, because they
threatened to put new difficulties in the way of our advance.
Nevertheless, I still hoped that I should succeed in finding
J.\ THK ill'lIUNI J[(jr.\TAIXs.
A TOILSOME AND DISHEARTENING MARCH. 191
a way between these mountains and the river; and, for
the rest, I depended upon the knowledge which Marongo
declared he possessed of the roads in this region.
These were the Mumoni Mountains, and we marched through
into them on November 12th. At first there certainly u'n'^e™'
was a way between them and the river ; but presently ^°^^-
the rocks approached so closely and so steeply to the Tana, that
I was compelled, whether I liked it or no, to leave the river, and
betake myself to the valleys that slanted into the mountains.
As I liked to sleep by the river, on account of the water, I
turned back towards it after a march of about three hours ; and
now began about as difficult and uncomfortable a climbing
match as can well be imagined. The mountains then assumed
a very steep and precipitous character. They were covered,
throughout, with thicket, like a primeval forest, and thorny
bushes, which made marching very difficult and painful. It
must be remembered that we had here to march not only with
porters, but with a column of camels that still numbered seven,
and with many hundred sheep. Sometimes we had to climb
up a steep declivity, sometimes to scramble down an abrupt
descent, and continually we were cutting our way with the axe.
Considerably tired, I fixed my camp, at about three o'clock,
in a less precipitous place, and gradually gathered the whole
column about me. My people were in anything but a cheerful
humour, and their spirits did not greatly rise, even when I
gave them, in addition to their regular daily fare, a number of
sheep as an extra present. I saw well enough that an -^^^^-^^^^ ^^.
advance in this direction was impossible. Throughout vance im-
the whole afternoon I accordingly caused various little
excursions to be organised, to try in what direction a better way
could be found for us ; and I learned, before evening, from the
Somali Musa and my servant Rukua, that by going away in the
first instance entirely from the river, in a south-east direction,
we should get to an open country.
The Tana here turns more and more completely towards the
south, so that to all the difficulties of our advance was added
the uncomfortable feeling, that at the end of each marching day
192 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
of this kind we should be farther from, instead of nearer to,
our real goal, the Equatorial Province. Next morning we
Change of marched awa)^ in a south-easterly direction, therefore
direction, exactly opposite to that in which Emin Pasha was to
be sought. However, by this means we got out of the primeval
forest, and into an open region, though it was pouring with
rain. Then I gradually inclined towards the south, and then
towards the south-west, always keeping the margin of the wood
at my right hand.
Towards ten o'clock we descried some people at a distance,
and Marongo informed me that these were Wakamba Mumoni.
Marongo, who now was literally of vital importance to us, was
usually led in advance of the column, with a cord round his
^ neck, under the uuard of a Somali. He now begged
Marongo ' ~ .
securely to be allowed to conceal the cord from his countrymen.
^^^ ^ ' Accordingly, a handsome cravat was made for him out
of a great piece of red stuff, which was only fastened at the
back, in the most discreet manner possible, to the cord covered
by the material. When this toilet had been completed,
Marongo beckoned his countrymen to approach, and informed
them of my wish to be shown a way through the mountains.
We enforced the request by a present of stuff, and the Wakamba
at once put themselves in motion in advance of us.
They were desirous of showing me a place by the river,
where the native caravans were accustomed to cross the water
to get to Mbe. I had already given them their advance pay,
but at every hundred paces the fellows would sit down and
demand a fresh payment before they went further. I had made
up my mind to practise patience in this country to the utmost
possible extent, to get through peacefully ; but practically I
could not help seeing how impossible it is to get on with
Severity natures like these negroes without recourse to cor-
necessary ^^^^.^^ punishment. But for this resource, a man is
negroes, entirely pow-erless against such breaches of contract
and hindrances of every kind ; and for these people themselves it
is much better, if they are made clearly to understand that
lying, thieving, and cheating are not exactly the things that
THE BEST POLICY FOR AFRICA. 193
ought to be in this world, but that human societ)' rests upon
a certain reciprocity of responsibility and service. Beyond all
question, that is the manner in which the way will be best and
most safely prepared for the opening up of Africa. To make
oneself the object of insolence of the natives is the very M'ay to
confirm the blacks in the lowest qualities of their characters,
and especially to degrade our race in their eyes. The practice
of undertaking such responsibilities, and then leaving them
unfulfilled, under all manner of pretexts, is always founded upon
a certain under-estimation of the other party. It is quite a
mistaken motto of travellers, that in Africa one must learn
patience, and that no one who has not patience should travel
there. It certainly is far more consonant with our interests
and with civilisation if we take it as our motto, on the
other hand, that we will impart some of our character-
istics to the natives of Africa, instead of simply truckling to
their faults. The great principle that makes itself j^^^.^^ ^^ ^^^
felt through the universe, even in inorganic nature, is shown and
. . ... enforced
the principle of unlimited justice. But this principle
is quite as much disregarded when the black man is allowed
to overreach the white man, as in the opposite case. During
the whole time of my leading the expedition I was always
conscious of acting upon this principle.
In the middle of the day, between one and two o'clock, we
at length came upon a high hill, with a very steep declivity
towards the Tana, down which the column was led with much
trouble, to the ford designated by the Wakamba. Here we found
cooking stones and other signs of the camping of caravans
and expeditions. At this place the Wakamba entered into
commercial relations with the people of Mbe. But at that
time the Tana was so high that the carrying across of the
porters with their loads was not to be thought of. Abortive
much less, even, the transport of the cattle. On ^^^^Xe*""
that day four attempts were made to find a suitable ^a^i*-
place, but they all failed. The Wakamba told us that expedi-
tions often had to wait here for many months till the river had
subsided. That is just the way of the black men. Instead of
13
194 KEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
buckling all together to the work of making an ordinary boat,
they will wait for half a year until the river has gone clown. I
was now compelled, willingly or unwillingly, to continue my
march on the right bank.
In laboriousness and in lack of result our next march was
quite equal to that of the previous day. It was always up hill
and down hill, through primeval underwood, where only the axe
could make something like a path. It was, in truth, very
depressing, especially when the ultimate object of the journey
„ ^^ was considered. Whither would the Tana, thus run-
Doubts . . '
as to the ning continually southward, ultimately lead us ? There
was something ridiculous in the idea of journeying in
a direction just opposite to the goal of the journey, merely
because it was impossible to cross a particular river. It recalled
to the mind certain campaigns of the Turks south of the
Danube. I began to consider, more and more seriously,
whether it would be well to devote a few days to throwing a
bridge across the river.
On November 14th I encamped on a small clearing in the
forest, and here we were very agreeably surprised, in the even-
ing, by the visit of about a hundred Wakamba to our camp. If
any one could do it, they were the people to help us out of the
disagreeable position in which the expedition then was. More-
over, they declared their readiness to do this, and asserted that
we should soon come to the end of the mountains. On the
Advice of ^^"^ic6 of these Wakamba, I marched entirely away
kaLbl*" ^'^°™' ^^^ ^'^^^^' ^^^^ *° *^® ^^^*' *^^^ ^° *^^ south-
east, afterwards to the south, and gradually towards
the south-west and west. On that day we absolutely made a
circular movement, and though marching over more than seven
miles of surface, we were only some 1,100 yards from our old
camping-place when we halted in the afternoon. I was once
more led by the Wakamba to a place where the Tana was wide,
and where, according to their assertion, the people of Mbe crossed
the river in the dry season. Here I determined to make an
attempt to get across, or, as we were pleased to call it, I resolved
" to force the Tana."'
A DIFFICULT TASK. 195
Hemmed in between the river and the mountain range,
•with its thick growing wood, I had a lengthened encampment
made here. With the help of Marongo and of the Wakamba
who accompanied me, I put myself at once in com- communica-
naunication with Mhe people on the other side of the *i.'"^,y,'t'i
river. I oiiered them rich presents, cattle and stuffs, people,
if they would transport me and my whole expedition across the
Tana. The conversation is here carried on by the natives on
the opposite banks in a very remarkable manner. They speak
with voices hardly raised, and yet each side can perfectly hear
what the other says. Every sentence is answered by the cry of
" eh ! " in token that it has been understood. We found just the
same practice afterwards in Kikuyu, Kamasia, and Elgejo.
As the Tana was altogether too high to be crossed by wading,
I resolved, in order, in the first place, to establish a communica-
tion with the opposite shore, to get a rope on to an island lying
opposite, which was only separated from the further The pro-
bank by a narrow arm of the river, which did not seem ^lf^-°^
J ' crossing"
likely to present many difficulties. The Mbe people the river,
professed themselves ready to help us, and already in the after-
noon they contrived, by wading up to their shoulders in the water,
to reach the island from the opposite side. There was a second
declivity about fifty yards above the island on our side of the
river. From this point I made attempts the whole afternoon to
reach, from our own bank, the island lying below. In the course
of these attempts Hussein at one time was caught in the rapids,
and shot, swift as an arrow, down the Tana and past the rapids,
so that I feared for his life ; but by exerting his utmost strength
he contrived to regain the right hand shore. At last the
Somali, Omar Idle, managed to reach the island, soomaridie's
that he could hail the Mbe people from thence. But ^^p^"^'-
this brought us little practical advantage. On this first day I
had also acquired a complete knowledge of the characteristics of
the water at this place, and I decided, on the following morning,
to proceed with the building of a great raft, which I intended to
have strongly secured with ropes, and then to draw to and fro
between our side and the little island lying lower down near
196 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the opposite bank, and thus to get the column across in
sections.
My people worked with perfect zeal, as I had promised
rewards ; and a raft about six times as large as the one we had
made at Murdoi was constructed in the course of the day. At
the same time I made the attempt to draw a rope
Ind the across to the island, by which the people might swing
^°^^' themselves over, and their packages also. With their
utmost strength the best swimmers of the expedition, among
whom was Herr von Tiedemann, toiled to reach the island with
the rope. Either each fastened it round his breast, which was
important as preventing them from being carried down into the
whirlpool, or two persons took hold of it, to reach the island
with it by swimming. But directly they were a certain distance
from the island, the strong current swept man and rope on one
side, or drew them under the surface.
Meanwhile the Tana was continually sinking. I had made
a measuring rod, which I fastened in the river, and by which I
The river could accurately gauge the height of the water.- As
falling. ^Yie river had fallen about one foot in the night between
November 16th and 17th, I continued the attempts with the
rope. At the same time I caused the Mbe people on the
opposite side to be asked to show us a place where the Tana was
narrow, and where we might hope to throw a bridge across the
river. They said that there was such a place a little way higher
up. I sent a few people there ; and when they came back and
reported that a bridge seemed possible in that place, at noon I
gave up the attempt to reach the island by the rope, inspected
the place proposed for the bridge, and decided, as the scheme
of the raft must always be exceedingly dangerous, on account
of the rushing current and the heavy woods, to proceed with the
construction of the bridge instead.
The usual method of building bridges of this kind in Africa
is by pushing forward heavy piles on both sides into the river,
as far as the current will allow. The piles are then fastened
together by cross beams, and over these long slender trees are
stretched across, the thrust being always from below upward.
BUILDING A RIVER BRIDGE. 197
"When beams can no longer be used, the wort is continued with
hurdle work, tier upon tier being pushed forward as
far as the supporting power of the wood will bear. If tuiid a
this hurdle work, which is pushed forward from both ^"*^*'
sides at the same time, does not suffice, the last space is spanned
by tough ropes made of the bark of trees. In this manner a
bridge is produced, unsteady, indeed, but strong in itself, if the
supports are able to stand against the current.
My people, assisted by the Mbe men, worked with the
greatest energy and with truly heroic exertion at this bridge,
from November I8th to the 22nd. On the 21st the wattles had
been pushed so far forward on each side that only a Energetic
space of about fifteen feet remained to be joined by operations,
ropes. In the afternoon three such ropes were drawn from one
side to the other. The whole hung down, indeed, somewhat
close to the surface of the water, but I determined that when the
ropes had been bound together by a cross-plaiting, I would have
a, fencing made on either side to keep my people from being
drawn into the current. Of course I could not have the smaller
animals driven across such a bridge, but each one had to be
carried across separately. But as a row of porters could be
posted for this duty, to pass the sheep and goats from hand to
hand, and as this had only to be done across the middle space
of the bridge, it only involved the expenditure of a few hours'
time.
On the 21st, at night, I went to bed in the firm hope that
on the morrow the bridge could be completed, and the passage
•effected. We had had the great good fortune, that since the
beginning of the building of the bridge the rain had suddenly
ceased ; a fact the Wakamba attributed to my magic power.
But in the evening, on the 21st, I saw with disquietude completion
that the whole western horizon was covered with thick of the
clouds. Still, next morning, the bridge was completely
above the water, though the Tana had risen somewhat in the
night. Evidently there had been rain higher up. At seven
o'clock I went to where the bridge was building, and found my
workmen zealously employed in filling up the last gaps. Six
198 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
ropes had been drawn across ; and through these, cross-piece
after cross-piece of wood was twisted, and firmly attached to
the ropes. Over the cross-pieces other pieces were to be bound
lengthwise, and the whole was to be finally secured by a strong
paling at the sides. The cross-pieces were laid down, and at
nine o'clock I returned to the camp, and gave orders to prepare
everything for crossing at eleven.
I retired into my tent for an hour to do some writing, when
all at once my attention was drawn to a wonderful rustling and
splashing in front of it. Looking out, I found that the Tana
had suddenly risen to the entrance of my tent. I hastened
Eising of towards my bridge. The whole bottom of the valley,
the waters, ^hich until then had been partly dry, was under water.
People from the bridge itself came hurrying towards me. The
bridge had been torn away and carried down the stream, the spite-
ful river having thus destroyed in a moment the arduous work of
six days. In half an hour the Tana had risen about four feet.
By the carrying away of the bridge, my people, who had
been at work on the other side of the river, were suddenly cut
off from us ; and as they had no weapons they were actually in
Our work- danger of their lives. By the most strenuous exertions
men cut off. Qyj. brave Somali, Mahomed Ismail, at length suc-
ceeded, after several useless attempts, in getting a rope across,
and fastening it on the other side, so that I could draw the
people over to me.
To keep up the spirits of the caravan, I now, in spite of our
failure, distributed rewards to the most diligent of our people
for the work they had done in the bridge-building, and com-
mented on the whole affair rather from the humorous point of
Change of ^^^^" ^ ^^^° ^* °^'^® despatched a column up the
plan of river, to settle on a path for the march of the following
morning. But I felt very heavy at heart as I returned
to my camp, for again we were to encounter all the misery of a
march through the forest in a direction that was turned away
from the goal of our journey ; and I did not even know whither
this march would ultimately lead us, as the position of the
source of the Tana was as yet unknown to me.
PERSEVERANCE UNDER DIFFICULTIES.
199
In the afternoon the river suddenly began to fall again, and
once more the delusive hope played around me, as I had once
set my heart upon it, that I should cross the Tana after all, and
get rid of it. The follo^Ying morning I started for a reconnais-
sance down the river, and discovered a place where, from our
side, great blocks of rock projected for about a third into tlie
narrower river, while on the opposite side, as I was Another
assured by the Mbe people, who were proceeding '='^'^°'=^-
ixirallel with me on the other shore, a flat sandbank thrust
BUILDINC4 THE BeIDGB ACROSS THE TANA.
itself into the waters. In the midst, the water was naturally all
the deeper, and roared along with enormous power ; but this
si)ace only comprised about thirty feet, and it might be assumed
that it could be bridged over with hurdle work and ropes.
I will pass in silence over the labours of the next days. On
the evening of November 25th I once more believed that we
should be "able to cross the river on the morrow. Herr von
Tiedemann was unwell on that day, and I sat alone in front of
my tent. On this evening I enjoyed the strange spectacle of
beholding, not indeed the setting of the moon, but rather the
200 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
rotation of the earth, in a manner I had never before expe-
rienced. The moon stood like an immovable point, exactly
on the horizon, in an atmosphere that, above the Tana,
optical"^* had been completely cleared by thunderstorms. When I
delusion, g^^^ ^y ^y^g steadily upon it I saw, not by any means
the moon moving away, but the earth turning upward, like a
huge balloon, from west to east, whereby the moon disappeared
from my view.
Towards nine o'clock heavy masses of cloud drew up from
the west, and soon the crashing of thunder and the glare of the
lightning became incessant, while plashing rain poured down
on us like a deluge. My people were some of them crying out
in the midst of the tiood, and I experienced a downright feeling
of shame to think I should be lying dry in my tent, while out-
side all were roused up in wild confusion, and had to suffer.
With dismal forebodings I went next morning to the place
where the bridge stood. The river had risen again five feet
during the previous night, and I could see already, from a dis-
tance, that the bridge was entirely below the surface of the
water ; it Avas only on the opposite side that some of the beams
Failure of ^tood forth. Like Frederick the Great at the battle of
the bridge. Kolliu, I was ready, as I could not induce any of my
people to go across to the other side, to throw myself alone on
the rope into the raging current. But so soon as I reached the
furthest point of the rock, and heard the roaring, howling, and
hissing of the floods, I understood that any attempt of the kind
would be constructive suicide ; and I at once gave the order for
breaking up the camp and resuming the march down the margin
of the river.
In half an hour the expedition was on the march, with beat
of drum, and the black, white, and red flag displayed in the van.
I was the last in the camp, and stood there with very peculiar
A day of feelings. " Idly gazing and astounded, seeth he his
misfortTines. ^^Qj.]jg destroyed." * I ordered them to saddle my
horse. But my horse, dead beat from the rain deluge of the
* From Schiller's " Lay of the Bell " — describing the impotence of man
against the forces of nature. — Te.
A RIVER AXD ITS CATARACTS. 201
last days, stood with trembling knees, and when we tried with
cuts of the whip to get it to move, it suddenly sank to the
ground with half-extinguished eyes. So I had to part from the
faithful beast, and pursue my way with the wanderer's staff in
my hand.
The march soon led through a high leafy wood, always up
hill, till towards eleven o'clock we were about five hundred feet
above the level of the river, and now looked straight down upon
the current. What a magnificent view was displayed before us !
Below our feet the river poured down a glorious cataract, and
we heard the roaring of this fall in all its majesty. Looking
towards the north-east, the eye wandered for a long distance
over the rapids below the fall, and like a silver thread the Tana
wound its way through the rocks, that reared their heads in bold
outline, and the green woodlands. I was obliged to acknow-
ledge that if the Tana with its powerful current was
T ,. . -, . „ . .A grand
inconvenient enough from a practical point of view, it forest
produced an elevating and, indeed, an altogether over- °''^"^'
powering impression, contemplated thus objectively. And up
here, under the deep blue vault of heaven, face to face with the
development of power in the depths, rested the peace of God.
The sun beamed all the clearer after the storm of the preceding
night ; it played with the tops and crowns of the trees, and
painted varied shadows on the ground, which was gay with
fresh grass and flowers of every kind. In the branches could
be heard the cries of the feathered world, and over the blossoms
in the woodland shade hovered many-coloured glittering butter-
flies, and the fresh forest air poured with an invigorating flow
into the lungs. Over the sordid cares of the moment the soul
soared away amid these impressions, and new hope came into
the heart.
I determined to chronicle on the map of the Tana the union
of powerful grandeur and moving loveliness presented by the
landscape at this part, and called the cataract with ^^^ ,_ ^.^
its rapids, after the name of Her Majesty the German toria au-
T-, 1 -,T- • > 1 T-< n )j ffusta Fall."
Empress, the "Victoria Augusta tavL
Towards one o'clock I found Herr von Tiedemann, with the
202 XEW LtGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
column, waiting in the wood, expecting me. Om- march was
finished. I went with Hussein and Rukua and the elder of the
porters, Musu, to look for a camping-place. Towards three
o'clock we had found one, and I sent Rukua back to lead the
column to it. The porters came, but the camels delayed to
Various make their appearance, and when at last they arrived,
losses. a,t about seven o'clock, I was informed that besides my
horse the list of victims for the day included a camel, a donkey,
and a porter named Omari Washikura. At all events there was
a completeness about the losses of this day.
On the morrow we marched about seven thousand paces
further, in a tremendous rain. I pitched my camp in a clear
space by the river, where the current in the middle was so
strong that it caused waves like billows of the sea to roll to the
banks. As on this day the Tana repeatedly rose and fell again,
a man might easily imagine himself by the shore of the ocean.
The following day deserved to be marked with red letters.
At first we still moved on among mountains. All at once the
declivities became gentler, and then they suddenly ceased alto-
gether. We were on level ground. The mountain chain was
A " red- passed, and once more we had the steppe before us.
letter day. '"^g Were uow about 2,500 feet above the level of
the sea. I cannot describe what a feeling of satisfaction it
was to have these Mumoni Mountains behind us, with their diffi-
culties and discomforts, that for a time had almost threatened
to spoil our expedition.
Once more I pitched my camp by a dry affluent of the Tana.
A glorious afternoon, full of sunshine, dried the exhausted
column, and soon brought back the old confident tone of mind
among the people. As Omari Washikura, to whom I had, on
the day before, immediately sent his brother, Ben Omari,
"Sick proved to be utterly incapable of following us, his
leave" brother came back to me to-day, asking permission to
granted, j-gj^^^in with him, and as soon as the sick man was
convalescent to return with him to the coast. I gave him the
required permission, and fitted him out richly with five sheep,
cartridges, and pieces of stuff. I also gave him letters for the
WILD SPORTS IN THE FOREST. 203
coast ; but unhappily the two brothers never reached Lamu.
Probably they were slain by the Wakamba, or captured as
slaves.
In the night between November 28th and 29th, to the terror
of my people, three lions appeared in our camp ; but they soon
rushed away. For the next few days we were once more sui--
rounded by the complete solitude of African bush steppes. We
came into regions where the wealth of animal life was Lions in
greater than anything we had yet met with. On the ^'^^ ''"^^■
march, on the 29th, we heard for a long time the roaring of
lions close by the column, and we repeatedly came upon rhino-
ceroses, which in their stupidity rushed full upon us, till the
bullets from my double-barrelled rifle, catching them in the
region of the eyes, forced them to turn round. On the left a
mountain region now appeared, which was called by Marongo
the Tia mountain land. He informed me that it was a day and
a half s journey from thence to the place Kitui.
Thus we came once more into regions where a white man
had been before us, if only for a short time — the old Krapfs
faithful Krapf. I now began to hope that we should '"'"'^*'"y-
soon come upon the fords of the river indicated by him.
The vegetation assumed ever a fresher and more attractive
character. Magnificent fan palms formed a lovely screen to the
Tana, and great colonies of cacti shot up amid the jj^pp^
various kinds of acacia in the steppe. On Novem- tamue
.„. 1 . ■ . shooting.
ber 30th I succeeded m killmg two hippopotami in a
little aflfiuent of the Tana,— a welcome addition to the store of
meat for my Waniamwesi.
On December 1st we came to a place in the river where it
divides into seven forks. " Here," thought I, " is where we
must cross," and I at once began to ascertain the depth
of the separate arms of the river. Meanwhile my column had
come up, and we halted on the right hand shore, while my
people waded across one arm after another. As we were thus
taking our ease, an enormous rhinoceros suddenly Hunting a
rose up, in one of the little islands situated in '^'""'°^""'-
the river, and was about to cross the arm of the river
204
XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFIUC'A.
that separated us from the island, exactly in the fece of
nor column. M_v jK^iplo jnmjDed up in alarm, but a shot in
tlie head from my rifle induced the colossus to retreat, and
atU'nijJt tlie passage of the river somewliat lower down. But
this brought the animal directly into the line of fire, and not
onlv Ilerr von Tiedemaini, l)ut several of the 8onialis also shot
ttf ' '^ Ij<^ HUNTINCJ THE lilllXO-
-^■J^f
. '■"'" '' at it, so that the rhino-
ceros fell on the ground not
far from the place where we
had intended crossing. This was a slight encouragement, but
not enough to sweeten the failure of the passage.
Six of the arms were fordable ; but the seventh represented
the real course of the Tana, and hard as my people tried to
find a place where they could wade across, the thing this
time again proved to be impossible. I remained at this fork
The -Carl Alexander Falls.
THE KARL ALEXANDER CATARACT. 205
of the river all the day, and next day marched further up
the stream amid a succession of showers of rain. En-
counters with rhinoceroses now formed part of the cuit laaa
incidents of each marching day. On December 2nd I ^^^^'
moreover lost my last faithful dog Tell, who suddenly ceased
to follow me, and, when I coaxed him, all at once fell down
trembling, with glazed eyes ; so that I had to leave „ ^ ,
, ^ , Deatn of
Rukua behmd, with a request to Herr von Tiedemann faithful
to shoot the poor creature. On such expeditions as
these it is, in fact, unadvisable to take dogs, or anything to
which our heart grows attached, for it is necessary to part from
one after another, and each parting has its separate heartache.
According to Marongo's assertion, we were to arrive in
Kikuyu to-day, but this prophecy turned out to be a great
mistake. We did, indeed, come once more to a wooded mounted
region, in front of which the Tana spreads out into a broad,
lakelike form. This I caused to be sounded at various places
with regard to its depth, and thus gained something like a
measurement of its surface, which I should estimate at an
average of 3,300 square yards.
A little above this lake-like broadening of the river the mass
of water flings itself down in a cataract, which, though it rushes
over several terra,ces, must, according to the aneroid barometer,
have a total height of more than three hundred feet, and may
accordingly be safely reckoned among the greatest a grand
waterfalls of the earth. As it began to rain towards thf^Kari
noon, I pitched my camp on the slope of a hill, about Alexander."
90 feet below the summit of this cataract, and here the rock
literally trembled beneath us. The uproar was so loud that we
could hardly keep up a conversation. If this waterfall were
situated in any other part of the world it would certainly every
year be a goal for the journey of the cultured world. I named
it, after His Royal Highness the Grand Duke of Saxony, the
" Karl Alexander Fall."
From the heights I could see, in the north, a quite peculiarly
formed mountain region, which I was a few days later to identify
as Kikuyu Muea. Mbe was, accordingly, now behind us, and
206 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the hope that Me should be quit of the wearisome Tana
became stronger.
From the mountains that had so much frightened us on
December 2nd we emerged on the following day. The Tana
likewise began to depart from its southern direction, and to
incline first towards the west, and soon afterwards even a little
towards west-north-west. This likewise was a hopeful sign.
On this day, December 3rd, I shot a magnificent waterbuck
and an antelope ; and now it was that I suddenly astonished
Herr von Tiedemann with an art which he did not
Sport and „ .
culinary at all suspect me 01 possessmg. 1 began to occupy
science, j^yggif -with the kitchen, and prepared pieces of the
back of the waterbuck with a sauce that almost excited Herr von
Tiedemann to admiration. He thought he had never tasted
anything like it at Hiller's or Uhl's. As we always had a supply
of milk and cream, and the proportion of meat in the strong
broth was of no great consequence, and we had also salt and
pepper still in store, the preparation of a strong sauce did not
present very formidable difficulties. From that time we occupied
ourselves more and more with the labours of the kitchen, and
practically degraded to the character of a scullion the brave
cook, Bamberger, who seemed to be of opinion that, for possible
scientific investigations in Europe, he ought to accumulate
, ^ every kind of East African remnant in our cooking pots.
Bamberger •' . . . .
and Ms Bamberger was one of the originals of the expedition,
°°^ ''and entirely disproved the dogma of the educational
importance of the whip of hippopotamus hide. In the best
natured manner he opposed all measures of mine that were
directed towards cleanliness, or even the punctual accom-
plishment of work. When the hippopotamus hide whip was
flourished over his back, he prayed to Allah, which he never did
at other times. When the unpleasant performance was closed, he
would betake himself Avith a cheerful smile, once more to his
cooking pots, which might have done well for the retorts in the
witch's kitchen at a performance of Faust. In the further
course of the expedition I appointed him as drummer ; and as
he^showed himself completely competent for this office, and
CROSSING THE GREAT STEPPE. 207
also fought most manfully in our combats, a reciprocal feeling
of esteem was developed between him and us, towards the end
of our intercourse.
On December 3rd, about ten miles above the Karl Alexander
Fall, I discovered another waterfall, which poured down
its waters like a note of interrogation. It turned towards the
north, then towards the east, shot down in that direction, and
immediately below the fall the river turned to the south, and
then, by the west, took its way back directly to the north.
This fall I entered on my map, after the name of jj^^
our most prominent scientific African investigator, "sohwein-
furthFall"
as the " Schweinfurth Fall." At noon on this day I aiid"Krapf
pitched my camp below a conical rock, which is ^^^^'"
situated- about at the place where Krapf must have reached the
river. The spot cannot be determined with complete accuracy,
as the statements of Krapf are too undecided. In honour of the
old German missionary and honest investigator I called this
hill " Krapf Hill."
The forest that skirts the Tana now, to my great joy,
receded more and more, and on the following day ended
entirely. Instead of it, there extended before us the wide, red
grass-covered steppe, over which the eye could range
for many miles, where on the horizon great herds of ukamba
antelopes or bucks stood forth, and among them zebras
and giraffes ; where the rhinoceros thundered along, and where
at night the lion lifted up his voice. This is the actual
elevated steppe of Ukamba Kitui, which we now entered, and
the sight of which made our hearts beat higher, in view of the
fact that from here we should come direct into the region of
Kikuyu.
In this steppe the Tana began to receive affluents from the
south side likewise; a proof that we were approaching the
western chains of mountains. On December 6th we crossed
several of these southern tributaries, that cut their way iributa-'ies
deeply in the red clay soil, but generally contained only °^ *^® ^*"*-
a little water. I had learned from the people of Mbe that the
Wakamba of Kitui, when they went to Kikuyu and the Baringo,
208
NEW LiaUT OX DARK AFRICA
crossed tlie Tana at a place where it becomes two rivers (niito
niibili). The name of Dilca Avas given as that of tlie secoud
river, which was described as coming from the soutli. For
some days we had been looking for this division of the river.
On December 6th I made a long excursion up the Tana for
this purpose with Hussein Fara. The river had here taken a
course exactly towards the west-north-west, and my servant
Rukua liad declared, already on the preceding day, that he had
seen the Kenia, which is not improbable, as he had very sharp
eyes. Hussein and I discovered the long-sought fork, on (he
.^,,
ji t
jm
- fl
■^fc^-1
M
Ih
■
HI
4
^
^^*'
"'^
iSJ-
m--_^ef!l!f(^_
i'01;LJI\(.i- THE DiKA.
6th, in the far distance. Greatly elated by this fact, we
returned to our camp that afternoon.
On December 7th, after a two hours' march, this division of
the river was reached towards the south-west, among the moun-
tains towards the Naiwasha lake, and the passage over the
Dika, in which the people had to wade up to the chest in
Passage of Water, with all the cattle and the burdens, was happily
the Dika. accomplished in about the same space of time. I made
the people stand in a row across the Thika river, which is about
90 feet wide, and thus one sheep after another was passed
from hand to hand to the opposite bank. From this spot the
Tana turns more and more towards the north.
FIRST VIEW OF KENIA. 209
We are now at an elevation of about 4,800 feet, and the nights
begin to be refreshingly cool. The thermometer at night falls
to 15° C. (58 Fahrenheit), and the evenings are agreeable and
refreshing. The firmament in the hom-s of night appears more
immeasurably lofty than anywhere else on account of the
more rarefied atmosphere. The grasses and herbs be- The steppe :
come sweeter and fresher, and entirely new kinds of '*^^^*'^*^
•^ ana am-
trees appear. The number of game animals is enormous. ™^i^' ^t"-
Zebras, antelopes, rhinoceroses, wild hogs, and waterbucks are
often seen feeding peacefully together. Every day's march yields
prizes to the gun. The enclosure of the Tana again increases,
but it has lost the hard character that marks the lower steppe,
and offers an easy access to the waters. On our left the mountain
chain begins ; its outlying ridges extend to the river. It can be
none other than the Kenangop range that borders the Naiwasha
lake on the north-east. Already on December 6th we xraces of
had suddenly, to our great joy, come upon traces of *'^*'®"^'^=-
mankind, in the shape of a place with cooking stones and tent
pegs that had been left behind. These traces soon ceased again,
but we could perceive that they led across the river. I was in-
formed in Kikuyu that they were those of an Arab caravan,
which had marched from Mombassa to Lorian.
All this led us to suppose that the time of our laborious
march on the Tana was drawing to its conclusion, and that we
must be near Kikuyu. After the passage of the Tana, ^^^ ^^^^
as I was accustomed to express it, the " poison fang " of difficulty
the river had been extracted. Its volume of water had
decreased by one half, and it flowed quietly and modestly
onwards. On December 8th we suddenly came upon some men.
They were upon the opposite side of the Tana, but with Marongo
as an interpreter, we were able to make ourselves understood by
them. They were people from Kikuyu, who had driven their
herds down stream, and they told us that we should reach their
countr}' on the morrow.
On this day we descried for the first time, though it was to
some extent veiled, the mighty cone of the Kenia, just in front
of us, on the horizon in the north. When towards evening the
14
210 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
clouds parted, its snowclad summit was also to be seen. That
was an impressive sight ; and our hearts beat higher when we
The Kenia thoughf amid how much toil, care, and exertion we had
Mountain, ^j^g^ jg^j ^j^yg fa,r. On October 25th we had thought we
beheld the Kenia before us ; and now December 8th had come
before our passionate longing had been realised. Wliat a wealth
of impressions and experiences filled the space between those
two dates ! Unhappily, on that evening, one of my porters from
Dar-es-Salam, Amdallah, was left behind. He had for some
Poor time suffered from consumption, and I had long since
Amdallah. relieved him of his burden. The lions, which roared on
that night louder than usual behind us, unfortunately left no
doubt as to the poor fellow's fate.
On December 9th, the Tana again turned a little more
towards the north. "We crossed a second western tributary, and
now quitted the Tana altogether, which from this place turns,
in curves visible at a long distance, towards the Kenia, from
The Aber- which it flows. About uoou On this day, we came to a
dare Range, j-^^j^ Water poud in the neighbourhood of the Marawa,
after we had journeyed all the morning over long-drawn ridges
of hills with gradual declivities. The Kenia was continually
half to our right, and on the left were the mountains of the
Naiwasha Lake, called by Thomson the Aberdare Range.
We were now in Kikuyu, a high plateau region between
Kenia and the western mountain ranges, in which the Tana
really collects its volume of waters. In the afternoon the
proud, noble Kenia Mountain stood for the first time before us,
in its whole unsullied purity, in the sunlight, with its snow-
fields sparkling in the brightness. Towards four o'clock on this
day my Somalis and Rukua, whom I had sent out to settle on
the road for next day's march, suddenly brought five Wakikuyu
wakikuyn ^^*° °^^ Camp. ThcsB Were the first strange faces we
men in the had eucouutered for more than a fortnight ; and for
camp, 1, J? • • o '
the first time again, since that period, vegetable food
for us and our people ! They told us, that they would lead us
next morning to their villages, and declared themselves willing
to pass the night in camp. They also immediately inquired
AMONG THE WAKIKUYU. 211
whether I had come to bu}^ slaves of them, announcing them-
selves as having some of both sexes for disposal.
Violent showers poured down upon us at night, as the)' had
previously done by day. Next morning early we were already
on the march, in a north-westerly direction. The Wakikuyu
showed me the place, in the distance, where Count Teleki had
lived. At eleven o'clock, when we mounted a far-extending
acclivity, we came upon the first settlements of men. The
people hurried to meet us, bringing flour, sugar, and mtama
for sale, of which my people bought as much as they were
at all able to carry. 'J'hen, accompanied by a crowd Friendly
that could be counted by thousands, we ascended ^^^thThe™
another range of heights, and so through thick grass, natives,
waving like a sea, down to the margin of a little river, the
Marawa, which we had here to cross. The \\^akikuyu knew the
white race, and indeed in a manner advantageous to us, for
Count Teleki and Herr von Hohnel had lived here. These twO'
had taught the people of Kikuyu a certain amount of good
manners ; and it amused me to see how, in consequence, the
natural insolence of these natives was continually mingled with
outbreaks of fear.
Of this I had immediate experience when, by the river
Marawa, people came towards me, with the demand that I should
pay tribute before I crossed. I gave them to understand that
such was not the custom with us ; but I was obliged to order
them in peremptory tones to stand away from the ford, before
they suddenly declared themselves entirely willing to
let us pass the Marawa without tribute. Here, in the of the
afternoon hours of December 10th, a very original
passage of a river was effected, my people and the Kikuyu
working harmoniously together. The water reached about to
our necks, and it may be imagined what difficulties were
experienced in getting the cattle and the loads of powder through
the rushing current. I had at once caused a rope to be stretched
across the river, by which the men could hold fast. The work
went on diligently, the camels and donkeys were pulled across by
the rope, and at about four o'clock the last had been carried over.
•212 NEW LKHIT ON DARK AFRICA.
Here it was that the brave Marongo manifested all the
noble qualities of his character. His time of suffering was now
over, and I intended to send him, rewarded with presents, back
to his home. For the first time he walked with us to-day as a
Maron o a " gentleman," unguarded. His heart, filled with grati-
gentieman tude. Swelled high when I presented him, in addition,
with an old gun and some ammunition. He brandished
the gun like a lance, high above his head, pointing it at the
Kikuyu people, and marching upon them with enormous strides
whenever, during the passage, they came too near the baggage.
He maintained strict order, and was thoroughly impressed with
his own personal importance. " The Wakikuya take me for a
European," he said, glancing with a grin at his European
costume.
A little above the ford by which the caravan had passed
over was a swaying bridge, high over the river ; and by this I
myself, with Herr von Tiedemann and a few soldiers, crossed
to the opposite side. Our tents had already been pitched there,
A crowd, some thousands strong, surrounded our camp, curious!)
and importunately. Partly from a freak of ostentation, I re-
solved to have a solemn entry. Two Somalis were sent on in
advance, incessantly blowing the trumpet, and behind them
came a drummer beating a march. Then followed Rukua with
Solemn *^® black, white, and red flag ; behind him came I, and
entry into behind me Herr von Tiedemann. Two Somali soldiers
Konse. i i ^i ■ t t ■
closed the procession. In this way we proceeded along
the distance, some hundred paces, to our camping-place. The
first thing I did was to have the crowding Kikuyu people, who
had come dangerously near our flock of sheep, driven back
twenty or thirty steps in every direction by the Somali soldiers,
and to inform the elders that any raids upon our herds or upon
the goods of the expedition would be answered by shots from
my guns. Then I entered my tent. We were now in Konse,
about five miles from Kitura, the Kitui of Count Teleki. The
way to Baringo appeared to lie open before us, and we thought
we had left behind us the technically difficult portion of the
German Emin Pasha Expedition.
^^^mm^^-
CHAPTER VII.
J THROUGH THE MASSAIS,
OVER THE LEIKIPIA
I'LATEAU TO THE
BARINGO LAKE.
"Who helped me 'gainst the Titans'
insolence,
Who rescued nic from death, from
slavery ? "
Goethe.
I'
N Kiknyn seA'en days
(if rejoiciuj; re-
I'reslK'd the expedition,
wliicli was greatly ex-
lia Listed by marclies on
the I'pperTana. stay at
Kikuyii is a hind ^^''^''■
tliat can feed its j)eeiple,
a region literally flowing
with milk and honey. It
is a monutainous conn-
try, with gently-sloping
lines, inclining towards
the Kenia on the south, richly Avatered, and with a fresh and
verdant appearance everywhere.
-214 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
There are two divisions of this country : Kikuyu Mbi on
the right side of the Tana (Kikuyii 2), where we now were,
and Kikuyu Mnea on the left bank of the river (Kikuyu 1).
Thomson has much to say of the untameable cruelty of the
inhabitants — exaggerated like all the pictures of the dangers
among the inhabitants of this steppe offered by Thomson to
the wondering European. Count Teleki and Herr von
of the Hohnel had thoroughly impressed the thievish Waki-
^' kuyu with the superiority of European weapons ;
accordingly, as I have already stated, we were brought face
to face with a whimsical mixture of impudent, thievish pro-
pensities and sentiments of timid submission. The native
chiefs hastened to make their peace with us, which was ratified
by the slaughter of a goat or a sheep. The younger inhabi-
tants, however, could not restrain a propensity to thieving,
confirmed by transmission through many generations, even
after, with the concurrence of the elders, I had ordained that
every attempt at robbery should be visited with capital punish-
ment, and a number of them had suffered the penalty for in-
Their dulging their thievish proclivities. If the flocks were
propeu- driven through the land, luxuriant with grass, a black
sities. s^YTO., its posscssor entirely hidden in the bush, would
be suddenly thrust forth from one side, and seizing a sheep
by the hind leg, would endeavour to vanish with the prize as
quickly as it had appeared. Then the Somalis would fire into
the bushes, out of which a yell of pain would burst forth, pro-
claiming that just punishment had overtaken the evildoer.
Thus for seven days did we travel through this beauteous
Kikuyu, whose flora already exhibits the forms of the temperate
zone. Here we met with a kind of tree that reminded us vividly
Journey of our European oaks. Here I saw the fresh green
thrK^uyu clover of the North German borders, on which donkeys,
country, goats, and sheep browsed with much enjoyment. Clear
rivulets gushed onward through all the hollows, with an average
temperature of only 14-15° C. (55-58° Fahr.). The nights were
already bitterly cold ; the thermometer fell by ten o'clock to
8-9° C. (44-47° Fahr.). In the morning the hoarfrost lay spread
JOT^RXF.Y n/RorG/r kikvyu
215
over the I'resh landscape. On December 16th the registerinij;
" lowest tempera tnre " thermometer for the first time exhibited
the register at the freezing-point.
The ways here generally lead along by the far-extending
hills. "When we had reached the heights, we every morning
enjoyed the view of the grave and majestic lines of the Kenia,
Hut of the Wakikuiu.
which appeared more and more prominently in the north. The
Wakikuyn snatched greedily at the colonred and white Trade with
l)ieces of stnft" which we still had with us, and brought ^''^ °''*'^''-
in return into our cam]) ([uantities of poultry, milk, and honey,
besides abundance of grain of all kinds, so that black and white
revelled alike m the treasures of this beautiful land.
Kikuyu is, beyond all question, the pearl of the English
216 iVA'ir LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
possessions, with the exception of Uganda. It is unfortunate
that this cool and fruitful land lies so far distant from the
coast ; otherwise it would most certainly be suited for colonisa-
tion by European agriculturists.
On December 1 7th we were approaching the western rampart
of Kikuyu. On this morning I had endeavoured to engage
fifteen fresh Kikuyu porters, as far as to the Baringo. The
impudent fellows, not taking warning by the experiences of the
preceding days, had believed they could completely overreach
us by demanding payment in advance, in stuffs, for their ser-
vices to the Baringo, and then absconding with their
The cll68it- cj ' *— '
ing Kikuyu booty. But I was prepared for an attempt that was so
portere. g^actly in their way. The fugitives were at once laid
low by a few bullets from our guns, and we succeeded in getting
hold of and securing eleven of these Kikuyu people, who were
now compelled to make up their minds to undertake with us
the march into the Massai lands they detested. This happened
in the midst of a crowd of people that might be counted not
by thousands only, but certainly by tens of thousands ; for the
whole of Kikuyu is extraordinarily populous. But the multitude
was so intimidated that the people dared not attack us, though
there were only about fifty of us in all.
We were led by the High Priest Kikuyus, who, with all
manner of mysterious ceremonies, blessed the bridges we had to
cross, and sprinkled the roads. We were also requested every
Magic moment, when we came to a parting of the roads, to
ceremonial. gp^^_ -pj^g Wakikuyu declared it was to avert the evil
omen ; but I suspected it was to deliver us over to evil spirits.
We passed by a number of pleasant-looking kraals and fish-
ponds, with the glittering Kenia beside us, towards the right
hand. Gradually the cultivated land was left behind. A dense
primeval forest separates Kikuyu from the land of the Massais.
Climbing plants twist themselves among the primeval thickets.
Defences ^''^'^ malignant stinging nettles make any deviation
made by from the beaten track practically impossible. Over
thenatives. ^, , i i i , n -rr-n \ i i
the only path that leads out oi Kikuyu they have made
strong fences, between which deep chevaux-de-frise, concealed
WESTERN BOUNDARY OF KIKUYU. 217
from the traveller, have been sunk, their beds studded with
sharp pegs, to receive the unsuspecting stranger falling into
them. I had one of these trap pits opened, and found that it
was at least eighteen feet deep. Whoever falls among these
sharp pegs is lost beyond all question. To the left, through the
wood, I was obliged to have a way cut, to avoid such dangers
for my column. ^Ye came immediately to a great clearing,
where for the first time for a week we again saw great herds of
game animals. Here we halted, and took leave of the chiefs
of the Wakikuyu who had accompanied us. I only took three
guides forward with me ; they were to lead us out of the prim-
eval forest to the elevated plateaus of Leikipia, as far
^ r ' Guide to
as the boundaries of the Massailands. In the west, to the Massai-
the left of us, — for we were now marching continuously
to the north-west, — rose sharply and clearly defined the moun-
tains of the Naiwasha Lake, called by the Massais Subugu la
Poron. To the right, permanently in our view, rose the Kenia,
an invaluable landmark for the further progress of the expedi-
tion, as I knew that it is situated exactly on the equator, and
that the Baringo Lake, which I was trying to reach, is about f°
north. I had, with the exception of the question of water, no
difficulty as to keeping the line of march for the following
weeks.
On the margin of the primeval forest, in a second clearing
of the wood, I had my camp pitched, towards noon, near a pool
from which the column could draw water. All the waters of
Kikuyu pour themselves into the Tana. We now stood ^^^^^ ^^
on a watershed, for we came this day to the river the Guaso
Nviro
region of the Guaso Nyiro, which, emerging from the
mountains of the Naiwasha Lake, makes its way towards the
north, past the Kenia and the Endika Mountains, where it turns
towards the east. We stood here, on December 17th, at a part-
ing from whence a portion of the waters flows towards the north,
while close by, the Tana, having its source in the Kenia, pours
its flood towards the south. In Kikuyu the Tana bears the
name of Sagana, which is identical with Kilima, meaning
simply " mountain."
218 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
To-day the Wakikuyu guides left us. They could be of no
further use to us, as they did not know the Leikipia Plateau,
through which the Massais range.
The thermometer this night sank to 28° (Fahr.). It was
true Christmas weather, suitable for the approaching feast.
Coldness of The lightly-clad people cried out with cold and pain;
the nights. ^^^^ J i^^ygelf used, from this time, to wake regu-
larly every morning between three and four o'clock, shaking
with cold, though I was ensconced in four blankets, wore
woollen drawers and shirts, and spread my winter wrapper
over me. In the morning, when we marched through the frost-
whitened grass, the cold seemed to cut into our feet, though
we wore woollen stockings and boots up to the knee.
When the sun got higher, we had the most lovely weather
of a German August and September. The air above was so
thin that the eye seemed to rove through immeasurable dis-
tance. A hill, a tree, even a single leaf on the tree, stands out
in the crystal air as though it might be grasped. The game
animals, feeding in the sunlight in crowded groups, seem so
entirely within range, that involuntarily the traveller raises his
gun again and again for a shot at them. But, behold ! the ball
strikes midway between the hunter and his intended prey. But
A mountain throughout the whole bright morning, on the right, rises
region. ^]^g Keuia, with what appears to us its seven-peaked,
icy crown towering into the blue sky, lifting itself proudly and
royally above the eminences around. Spotless and pure it
stands, not like a thing created, but like an embodiment of the
Eternal Himself; and involuntarily the heart is lifted up above
the petty cares and thoughts of every-day life. When, at noon,
the sun rises to the zenith, the temperature likewise rises to
30°. But now the Kenia begins to veil his icy head in the
clouds, and early in the aftel'noon a hailstorm, or a driving
rain-shower, descends upon our camp, by which the temperature
is at once cooled down again to 17-13° C. (62-55° Fahr.), so
that from five o'clock we have congenial and cool November
weather.
Thus the march through the Leikipia Plateau goes on, so
THE HEIGHTS OF THE KENT A. 219
long as we are under the north-east monsoon that sweeps down
from the Kenia. This whole country has something TheieiHpia
spectral and unearthly about it. We are here, perhaps, ^i**^^'^-
on the oldest piece of earth, which has certainly been turned
towards the sun for millions of years. Leikipia stood above the
surface of the sea at a period since which South America has
twice been buried deep in the waves, and thus it still confronts
the gazing wanderer. It is an ancient, wrinkled woman, weary
of life, and withered ; ready, on her part, once more to dive
down, rather to-day than to-morrow, into the reposeful abyss
of death. To the right and to the left it has set up its sons —
sifnilar to itself, and ancient likewise — Subugu la Poron and the
Kenia. But the Kenia is the firstborn. He wears the The grand
kingly crown that sparkles like diamonds, and with Kemapeak.
him is the habitation of the dark forms of the primeval forest
that here perform their mysteries. According to the belief of
the Massais, the Godhead itself dwells on the Kenia, and, un-
approachable, this seat of the Divine is cut off from the contact
of the finite. To ascend the towering height of 23,000 feet will
be a problem which only the boldest and most stout-hearted of
our Alpine climbers might hope to accomplish. Proudly he
draws around him the threefold girdle of bristling, impenetrable
virgin forest, of boulders of the wilderness, and, lastly, of iron-
bound glacier ice. If the Hellenes had seen the Kenia they
would have dethroned Olympus, and have transferred hither the
abodes of the Eternal Ones. Had Shakespeare wandered upon the
plateau he would have made it the scene of the witches' incanta-
tions in Macbeth ; for here, and not in the Scottish Highlands,
is the grandest background for the creations of Ossian.
This plateau we reached on December 18th, penetrated with
the awe of the eternal in the presence of these mysterious and
minatory scenes of nature. On the 19th we had still The Guaso
to traverse a lengthened woodland district, to cross ^yi"^"^'^^'-
several rushing brooks, which brawled along over volcanic
debris towards the north. On this day we set up our camp at
the Guaso Nyiro, which, cutting its course deeply through
volcanic stone, rolls to the north, to the left of the Kenia. On
•2-20 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the afternoon of this daj' I ascended a hill, which commanded
the surromiding counti\y. There all at once the sight stretched
immeasm-abl}' into the endless distance of the north. The land
undulates gentl}', and there is nothing to limit the observer's
o-aze. The fancy is awakened, and the sight seems to stretch
to Abyssinia, to Egypt ; a delusion, certainly, occasioned by
the transparency and elasticity of the atmosphere.
I determined, in the first place, to traverse this steppe in a
northern direction till the Kenia turned oif to the south-east,
Line of ^lud then to turn westward, to hit one of the southern
march. afflueuts to Lake Baringo.
The land seemed deserted. On the summits of the hills
appeared the peculiar circumvallations of the Massai kraals.
No human beings were to be seen. All this increased the
gloomy character of the landscape in the highest degree. The
Important danger in this marching through pathless regions,
quesuon of ^j^^^q^^ guides acquainted with the locality, is prin-
auppiy. cipally connected with the question of water. The
finding of water is entirely a matter of chance. How could I
know, when I broke up my camp in the morning, where I
should find water, or if I should find it at all ? With this object
in view, I used always, with a few of my people, to precede the
column by at least an hour's march, always keeping a look-out
for the course of a brook, or a pond of standing water.
On December 20th, I certainly succeeded in solving my
problem in an especially favourable way. That day we en-
camped due east of the Kenia by an affluent of the Guaso
Nyiro, the most charming camping-place we had found on the
whole expedition. The shore is here fringed with a growth
of fine grass, which in the autumn is bright with all kinds of
colours. This carpet is studded with picturesque groups of
trees, among which the acacias, with their sharp outlines, are
Camping especially prominent. On account of its loneliness I
Gretchen- named this valley — which I can recommend to future
Thai. travellers as a camping-place — the " Gretchen-Thal."
This name suddenly occurred to my mind when, on returning
from a prospecting excursion towards the north, I looked down
PLAN OF THE EXPEDITION. 221
on the pleasant picture of mj' encamped column, engaged in
cooking, and on the grazing herd, the camels and donkej^s, and
the cheerful people. On the afternoon of December 20th, just
as I was working at a report for Germany, in which I declared
that Leikipia appeared deserted, and that it seemed as though
the Massais had fled before us, the Kenia suddenl}^ and a tropical
for the last time, poured down on my tent such a hail- ^*'"'"'-
storm as threatened almost to crush it to pieces, as though to
express utter scorn of my delusion. The Kenia, whose sons the
Massais call themselves, knew his children better ! He was
perfectly aware that they retreat before no man, and least of
all before a little expedition like ours ; and of this we were to
receive proof next day.
Before continuing my narrative, I will here insert a short
account of the general plan of the German Emin Pasha Expe-
dition under my leadership. Previously to my expedition, the
Massai route had in general been considered as practically
almost impassable. Entirely exaggerated opinions were held
as to the dangers of this road. In view of these difficulties,
Stanley had made up his mind to make the long pjanofthe
circuit round the Cape and up the Congo, although, E^^pasha
compared with ourselves, he had unlimited means Expedition,
at his disposal, and had the support of all official circles
working in Africa. An assertion of Stanley's has been com-
municated to me, in which he gave it as his opinion, that to get
through the Massais in warlike fashion, a man must have a
force of at least one thousand Europeans at his back. A large
part of the German Emin Pasha committee continued to hold
similar opinions. Wissmann, as well as Reichardt, declared
the Massai route to be impracticable ; and Wissmann Eeichardt's
especially, when he laid before the committee his plan ''v^-^°''-
for the march up the Tana, had included in it, as a matter of
course, the avoiding of the Massailand and Uganda.
This view, moreover, could not appear altogether unwar-
ranted, after perusing the reports of the two travellers who
up to that time had traversed Massailand, namely, that of
Dr. Fischer, and that of Thomson especially. Thomson com-
222 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
manded an expedition in Massailand, compared with which our
Thomson's I'esources must appear altogether ludicrous ; and yet
expedition, j^g jjg^^j jj^ ^j^g^^^ countrj Submitted to a treatment
which, judged by a European standard, not only falls below the
notion of " gentlemanlike," but must be plainly designated as
unworthy. Proofs of this are plentifully found in his book of
travels. Thomson thought he could produce an impression on
the Massais by all kinds of tricks, as, for instance, by playing
the part of a great magician, taking out his set of false
teeth and putting it back again, preparing eflferyescing lemonade
with Eno's Fruit Salt, and declaring the devil was in the
mixture. I have tried to produce an impression on the Massais
by means of forest fires, by fiery rockets, and even by a total
jj eclipse of the sun that happened to occur on December
ment ofthe23rd ; but I have found, after all, that the one thing
which would make an impression on these wild sons of
the steppe was a bullet from the repeater or the double-barrelled
rifle, and then only when employed in emphatic relation to their
own bodies.
The results of the Thomsonian manipulation were what
might have been expected. I will cite a few passages from his
book of travels which prove this very clearly. I do this, on the
one hand, to prove what ideas the Massais in these regions must
Effect of ^^^^ ^^^ °^ *^^ white race, and, on the other, because
Thomson's for my part, on my first meeting with the Massais, I
treatment. i(- • ^ n , i •
mysell was mfluenced by the mipressions produced by
Thomson's descriptions. I was firmly resolved, let come what
would, not to put up with such behaviour towards myself.
Among other things, the Massais had forbidden Thomson to
shoot on their territory. Thomson himself tells us that though
there were oxen, showing the neighbourhood of Massais, about a
mile off, he resolved, in consideration of their starving conditioi),
to risk a shot. The beast falls, and Thomson's servant rushes up
to it, and at once tears off a piece to eat raw. Thomson tells
us, in continuation (3rd edition, p. 368), "My exclamations of
disgust were stopped by hearing warning voices, and, turning
about, I saw my men pointing in the direction of the Massai
THOMSON'S RELATIONS WITH THE JIASSAFS. 223
kraals. ' We are in for it now ! ' I mentally ejaculated, as I
saw great numbers of warriors with their gleaming spears com-
ing towards us at full trot. I retreated at once towards mj^
men, Brahmin bringing a huge chunk of zebra with him. The
warriors were soon down upon us, and in response to their cries
we stopped, and closed up. The Elmoran, in the most savage
manner, demanded an explanation. As they stuck their great
spears in the ground, they asked us if we wanted to fight. If
so, they were ready ! We at once put on our most ' umble,'
Uriah Heep manner, and looked profoundly contrite. We were
deeply grieved, we said, for thus infringing their customs, but
we had done it for the purpose of getting a particular part of
the creature's entrails, which was necessary for the making up
of our medicine. They had to be further softened by a largesse
from our sadly -diminished stores, and then they consented to
let us go on."
On page 379 Thomson further says, concerning the Massais
of the region into which we were now going : " Certainly they
were rude to a degree I had not yet seen. They scrupled not to
stop us, by holding their spears at my breast, and demanding
beads. . . . The Massais were in very great numbers, and con-
tinued nasty to a degree that was maddening. They played
Avith us as a cat does with a mouse, and the ending would, with-
out doubt, have been the same, but for a certain hazy respect
and fear they had of me, as a phenomenon the power of which
it was not safe to rouse." (So Mr. Thomson imagined!) "I
had to sit continually on exhibition, ready to take their filthy
paws, pull out my teeth for their admiration, and spit upon
them, to show that I did not mean them any harm."
On page 381 he says: " I was plundered of almost every-
thing. The warriors were quarrelsome, and the slightest accident
at any moment might be the signal for a massacre. The Massais
in front ordered us not to come near them till they had discussed
all the pros and cons of my case. ... At last, after four days'
detention, we were rejoiced to hear that we might proceed."
Thomson also relates how one day a Massai took hold of
him by the nose to see if it were as loose as his teeth ; that
'22-i XE]V LIGlir OX DARK AFRICA.
another da}' the Massai warriors cut down his guards, and
Massai that he was then compelled, in addition, to pay
arrogance, ^j-ibute to the Massais because blood had been shed
on Massai soil.
Such had been the previous record, in the relations between
the white race and the arrogant Massai nation, which I was to
encounter on the following day.
For a long time it was believed that the Massais belonged
to the great Hamitic race in the north-east of Africa, and were
related to Somalis and Gallas. According to newer investiga-
tions, thev are said to belong to a Great Central African
Character „ " , • f i t^ tvt-i i ht
of the race, from the regions or the Upper JNile and iVlam-
bukuland. This point I must leave undecided. Like
Attila's Huns and other nomadic peoples, they have developed,
in the highest degree, a propensity for plunder and a thirst
for blood. The continual flesh diet on which they live has
physiologically increased their natural savageness, and the
brutalising of the feelings that must ensue with people who
are in the habit of slaughtering and devouring, in a cold-blooded
manner, the domestic animal they themselves have reared,
appears here in a very decided manner. A people of herdsmen,
where, the shepherd is not at the same time the butcher of the
cattle, will be able to develop the gentler feelings of the
heart, as we have often found them described in the Arcadian
songs. But where, through centuries of generations, the herds-
man has been also the slaughterer of his cattle, as is the case
Social with the Mongols on the elevated plains of Central
the*nomadic A-sia, and with the Massais on the elevated plains of
herdsman. Central Africa, there, by inheritance, an almost abso-
lute state of brutalisation must ensue. This law has always
explained why the herdsmen of the nomadic races have constantly
furnished the most savage phenomena in the world's history, as
we have seen them embodied in Europe, in personages like
Jhengis Khan and Attila.
In addition to this psychological law comes the fact, that
such races are prevented, by the peculiarity of their employ-
ment, from establishing themselves anywhere permanently. The
CHARACTER OF THE MASSAIS. 225
possession of great herds necessitates a continual change of
domicile. While the agriculturist is obliged to remain on his
soil, to which his heart becomes attached, the nomad warUke
is indifferent to the charms of owning a home. Where omT^^''^^
there is pasture for his cattle, where there is water for ^<>'^^^-
them to drink, thither he goes with his herds ; and the practice
he thus gets, from his youth up, makes him capable of under-
taking warlike expeditions across great tracts. Thus the
Massai has become the terror of the whole of East Africa,
Living in the elevated plains eastward of the lakes, Avhere
winter and summer, following each other not within the round
of twelve months, but within the space of twenty-four hours,
dwell together all the year round, where night has taken winter
for itself, while tropical heat rules by day, he is hardened to all
discomforts of climate. With hasty foot he traverses the
steppes to the rich lands of the Bantu in the south,
1 11 1 T-i'ipi Eeligious
and even to the places on the coast. Baithiul to the and moral
natural character of his kind, he has built up for him- ^ * "^'
self a religious belief, according to which only the Massais are
sons of the Deity, and as such have a natural right, con-
firmed by God, to all the cattle of the earth. Any man, not
being a Massai, found in possession of cattle is guilty of death,
and the Massai remorselessly murders not only the able-bodied
men, but the infant at the mother's breast, girls, and old women.
Slaves from other tribes he altogether despises.
But if all the conditions are present that tend to bring to
full development the wild and brutal qualities of the man, on
the other hand, among the Massais there may be recognised the
ennobling influence which is produced in every people by the
inherited consciousness of rule. Accustomed to see all around
them tremble at the name of Massai, the warriors of the race
have acquired a natural pride, which cannot be desig- Haughty
nated otherwise than as aristocratic. From the first the bear^gdV
Massais assumed towards me the deportment of young portment.
haughty noblemen. They recognise only one kind of work,
namely, war and the protection of the herds. All industrial
occupations, such as trading with passing caravans, the
13
226 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
manufacture of weapons and implements, and the driving of the
herds, are undertaken by the Wandorobbo, a kind of Massai,
who live here intermingled with the warrior tribes.
The haughty and warlike spirit innate in the Massais is
considerably strengthened by the peculiar matrimonial institu-
tions, and by the constitutions of the race. Their form
Form of ' •' . , . , • i i i • i
govern- of government is the very ancient patriarchal one which
"^°*' we meet with in the Old Testament. The elders of the
families manage the great affairs of the tribe in their councils,
and represent the tribe abroad. The family and the tribe, into
Avhich it has developed, is self-contained with regard ■ to those
without ; consequently here, as everywhere under the same
conditions, the vendetta has developed itself in its purest form.
If a member of one tribe is murdered by a member of another,
retribution is exacted from the second tribe as such, whether
the vengeance strikes the murderer or another.
But the point that seems, above all others, peculiar to the
Massai community is the strict social separation of the married
The from the unmarried element. The unmarried Massai,
ai'^^^the called ElmorAn, is simply a warrior. He may live
Massais. only ou milk or flesh, at any rate only on animal
food, and, more than this, he may only take one of these at a
time. If he wishes to go from the milk to the meat diet, or the
reverse, he must begin by taking an emetic, so that the two
kinds may never meet in his stomach. This also is an arrange-
ment that has been hallowed by religious consecration. He is
likewise fond of sucking the blood from a live ox, a hole being
cut in the neck or the nape of the beast, out of which the
Massai warrior drinks the blood in full flow, afterwards stuffing
up the hole with grass. Vegetable diet is only permitted to the
married Massais and the women. The warrior considers it
effeminate. But amid the great plateaus, far from the borders
of any tribes who practise agriculture, this must be only a very
Milk diet, rare interruption of the daily milk diet. The milk is
generally eaten sour, in the form of curds, when it certainly
affords a very wholesome and palatable food.
On entering a Massai kraal, this precious beverage is seen
^^'
^ I
THE EL2F0RAN, 2IASSAI WARRIORS. 227
in a number of gourds, standing against the walls in the houses,
that are built of clay and cow-dung. The milk is in various
stages of sourness, up to ten days old.
The Elmordn, the unmarried Massai warriors, live in villages
of their own ; with them are united, by free-love bonds, the
girls of the tribe, each of whom has a right to choose a
lover according to her fancy. This is a new incentive Eimoran
to the warlike rough spirit of the Elmordn ; for a girl ''"*s^'-
will choose the man who rushes into the battle with the greatest
fierceness and temerity, who kills the greatest number of
enemies, and brings home the largest booty in cattle. Thus
even the soft impulse of love impels the Massai warrior to his
marauding foray, and when he creeps along to the villages of
the Wasagura, or penetrates into the streets of Mombassa, he
has perhaps in his heart the image of some fair one of the
elevated plains under the Kenia, to whom he wishes to do
honour.
While the Massai warriors stride along absolutely naked, in
the right hand the broad handsome lance, on the left arm the
broad shield adorned with heraldic devices, which „ .
Equipment
covers almost the whole body, and perhaps a short fur, of the
embroidered with beads, thrown over the shoulder, and
falling to the hips, the girls are clad very decently in furs,
reaching up to the neck, as I have found customary among all
the proud and warlike tribes of north-eastern Africa. On the
other hand, the more slothful and effeminate tribes of the Bantu
in the north-east of the Victoria Nyanza, and the people in
Kawirondo, let their girls go nude. Soma! is, Gallas, and
Massais prefer keeping the charms of their fair ones for
themselves.
Widely different from this more poetical relation between
the sexes in the kraals of the Elmor4n is the actual marriage
state among the Massais. It is a mere matter of pur- jj^^^^j^^g
chase, which is managed by the father for the sdu, who among the
is not always much gratified to change the ireer liie oi
the Elmordn kraal, by a removal into the kraal of the old
married people. In contrast with the impulses of jealousy
228 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
which characterise the relations of the Elmordn kraal, the
Massai in the married state is said to be exceedingl_y indiflferent
with respect to his wife's faithfulness. To have as many
children as possible, especially sons, in whatever way it may be,
is the chief object of the mature man, who altogether, as far
as the idea of possession was concerned, in his practical stolidity,
reminded me greatly of our peasants in the Lower German
marches
On December 21st, I was destined to make the acquaintance
of these remarkable tribes. On that day I had kept the course
of my expedition towards the north-north-west, in order tO'
approach, in some measure, the mountains that run from the
Naiwasha Lake northwards ; at the angle I hoped to come upon
A hunting the Guaso Narok. As I was pursuing my way, in
country, advauce of the column, with Hussein and two of my
servants, I came upon great herds of zebras, and with my gun
I brought down two. I left a servant behind with the slain
beasts, with orders for my column, when it came to the place,
that the zebras should be cut up, and their flesh carried into the
camp. I went on with Hussein only, to continue the search
for water, beside which to encamp. On the way Hussein
informed me that the Somalis did not care for zebras, and con-
sequently I promised him to shoot an antelope for the Somalis
and myself Towards eleven o'clock we came to a running
stream, which we afterwards ascertained to be the Gnare Gobit.
After some difficulty we succeeded in finding a place for cross-
ing ; Avhereupon I sent Rukua back to bring up the column. I
myself fastened a piece of paper to a tree for Herr von
Crossing y . .
the Gnare Tiedemauu, with a request to pitch the camp at this
spot, and then I continued my way in a northern
direction, to shoot the promised antelope for Hussein. The
Gnare Gobit is skirted throughout its whole course by a strip'
of high forest, which, however, does not extend beyond the
margin of land fertilised by the river. In this strip of forest,
by the ford of the river, the camp was to be set up ; and
through it we now strode on to look for antelopes. It may
be about three hundred feet broad on the left side. We had
2IAKING ACQUAINTANCE WITH THE 2IASSAIS. 229
not yet passed through it, when on a clearing on the left
I suddenly saw great numbers of oxen. On an ac- Massai
clivity beyond the forest I also saw great herds. ^^''^^■
I called Hussein's attention to this phenomenon, and he
immediately informed me, in his broken English, that he saw
" too much men." These could be none but Massais. I whistled
through my teeth, and thought we had better leave the antelope
hunting alone for that time. It would be more prudent, after
all, to go back to our camping-place, and wait there for the
advancing column. We had scarcely got once more to the tree
with the paper on it for Tiedemann, when all at once, cheer-
fully singing, " 0 ho ! 0 ho ! " from our side of the river, and
up stream and down stream on the opposite bank, in groups of
three and four, Massai warriors came pouring in upon First meet-
us. As we had established no kind of relations with^fg^j"'
these Massai tribes, I ordered Hussein to guard the warriors,
rear, and presented my gun at the group that was approaching.
I had laid my revolver on the ground beside me, to have it
ready at hand. The Massais, so soon as they saw my proceed-
ings, laid down their shields and spears, and thus unarmed came
in a friendly way towards me. I also laid down my rifle, and
the Massai warriors greeted me with an amiable "Wadsak,"
after first, in token of their friendly sentiments, spitting at me
and likewise at Hussein Fara. To my questions they answered,
that I was in the territory of Elbejeto. In an instant we were
surrounded by twelve or fourteen young slender Massai warriors,
who immediately began to sing a monotonous song, aud to
dance round us in a row.
Gradually, to my great satisfaction, my column came up ;
first a few Somalis, who in general are not at all behind the
Massais in haughtiness, and were accordingly at once acknow-
ledged by them as equals, whereas no Massai condescended to
greet one of my porters. The Massais endeavoured to frighten
my people, by exhibiting to them the effect their lance thrusts
could produce, and also that of their poisoned arrows, a game of
I was very glad to see that my Somalis simply laughed '"^*^"
at it, while they retorted by trying, by pantomimic representa-
230 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
tion, to give the Massais a notion of what our repeating guns
could do.
Suddenly some new Massai warriors came, with the request
that I should look out another place for my camp, as this
was the ford at which they were accustomed to water their
horned cattle. I informed the Massais that I did not feel
inclined to do this. "You can, however, drive your
of trouble cattle to the ford, although we are encamped here."
to come, ^fj-gj. g^ \oTig hesitation they gave way ; and so, on
that morning, everything went on in a friendly manner
enough.
I resumed my interrupted sporting excursion beyond the
forest, ordering four men of my following to go with me. On
stepping forth from the wooded enclosure, the traveller sees
before him a low hill, entirely covered with pasture grass,
Avhich runs parallel with the Gnare Gobit, and gradually
The.hief ^ i i
kraal of shelves away towards the south-west and north-east.
Eibejet. q^ ^j^^^ j^^^^ ^^^ ^1^^ south-west lies the chief kraal of
Elbejet, and in the northern slope the Elmordn kraal that
belongs to it. Further kraals are also situated on the right
bank of the Gnare Gobit, and towards the north all the heights
are occupied by such villages.
Some of these kraals consist only of huts of clay, standing
contiguous to one another in a circle, and open on the inner
side ; but others are surrounded outside the exterior walls of
these clay huts with a fence a yard thick and three or four
high, made of thorns and underwood, with gates leading through
Fortified it to the interior ; and, according to African circum-
^^^^^^- stances, the place becomes absolutely impregnable if
well defended. The Massais, who on their foraging expeditions
always sleep out in the open, trusting only to their own vigil-
ance, have, in their own country, perhaps the best fences that are
to be found in all Africa ; and herein, again, is manifested the
practical warlike spirit of this nation.
On the declivities of the hill, by the Gnare Gobit, thousands
of oxen and sheep were grazing, guarded by ElmorAn warriors,
or by Wandorobbo. The Elmoran are armed only with lance
INSOLENCE OF THE MAS8AIS. 231
and shield ; the Wandorobho and the older Massais with bows
and arrows.
Our appearance before the gates of Elbejet naturally pro-
duced a considerable sensation. From all directions warriors
came hurrying up to welcome us, and the Massai girls also
pressed forward, manifesting curiosity; and they, too, welcomed
us with a grasp of the hand. Unfortunately I shot Reception
twice at a vulture with my rifle, and missed each time ; ^* '^^^^i^^-
whereupon there arose contemptuous laughter, especially among
the old Massai women. The conceit of the Massai women, with
regard to their sons, beats anything one can ever meet with in
the way of unreasoning or monkeylike affection ; and they are
fond of showing this feeling as ostentatiously as possible, by
contemptuous behaviour towards other men.
When I returned into camp, towards two o'clock, I met
some bulls of the Massais that had turned wild ; and from
the right hand a few elders of the Massais came hastening
towards us. As one of the bulls was preparing for a hostile
attack upon us, I stretched him on the ground with a shot
from my rifle ; an incident which evidently impressed the
Massais in a very disagreeable manner. I then requested
the elders to follow me into my camp, to hold a conference
with me. "When we approached my quarters, I noticed large
numbers of the Massai warriors drawn up beneath a tree,
and about to regale us with a war song. I knew that the
sequel of this would be their demanding tribute fi-om me,
which I was resolved not to pay. Besides, I had very vividly
before my eyes the ill-treatment that Thomson had suffered
at this very place, and wished to clear up certain matters
between myself and the Massais without delay. Accord-
ingly I shot at a vulture on the tree under which p^^t^^ ^^
the Massai warriors were seated ; and when a fat elder a toid
... front.
came to me in front of my tent, whera I was sittmg m
an arm-chair, to forbid my shooting, I twice fired off" my rifle
over his head. Then I at once gave orders to my Somalis to
turn all the Massais out of the camp ; but I myself followed
them, and summoned them to a conference outside its precincts.
'2:V2 yKw Liairr on dark afiiica.
As T could only speak a little of the Massai language in a
Eukuaas Iti'okcn liisliiou, the negotiati(tns had to be conducted
interpreter. I |||.^iii^l^ oue oi' the Kikuyu prisoners as interpreter,
for Rnkua, my servant, could in some degree make himself
/>^^
^«*'
V\T\()-iED B\ 1 LLLS
understood by that
people.
I ])iop()st.d to the
elders of the j\Iass;iis ~
that they should furnish
me ^\ith guide-, as tar as
the Baringo Lake, and
sell me a few donkeys. In
return, I would give them the only load of iron wire I possessec",
and also a few beads, of which ornaments I had a small bag
with me. We would mutually secure each other in our posses-
sions, and part as triends.
STRAINED RELATIONS WITH THE NATIVES. 233
"You must know," I said, "that among white men also
there are diflferences. Five years ago, a white man came to you,
whose race differs from our race as much as, for instance, the
Wakikuyu differ from yours. The white man who was . . ,.
here was an Englishman (Inglese), and you treated speech to
him badly enough. But I belong to the race of the
Germans (Badutschi), and we would rather die than submit to
such treatment. If, therefore, you will not agree to all friendly
proposals, you have only to tell me so, and you can also have
war with us." The Massais thereupon caused it to be made
known to me that, in the first instance, I must pay tribute for
their young warriors, before they would consent to treat The
further with me. When I simply refused to do this, decidefor
they rose up suddenly, without a word of leave-taking, '^*''-
and the Kikuyu man told me that now we should have war.
I went into the camp to breakfast, and resolved to bring the
matter to an issue that very afternoon. I gave over the com-
mand of the camp to Herr von Tiedemann, and betook myself
with thirty men to the chief kraal of Elbejet, to make sure of
the intentions of the Massais. I posted my people in a half-
circle behind me, and stepped into the foreground with p^^ ^^^_
Rukua and a Kikuyu interpreter, beckoning the elders tions aod
-_- . -. proposals.
of the Massais to come to me. I now waived my
demand that they should sell us donkeys, and asked only for a
guide to the Baringo, offering to pay for the accommodation.
The exasperation on the part of the Massais, who had restrained
themselves in the morning, was so great, that several of the
Elmordn came rushing onward with levelled lances to transfix
me. But I was glad to find that my people replied to this
demonstration with shouts of laughter. In fact, two or three
volleys would have been sufficient to lay low all the Massais
who were present.
While I thus negotiated with the Massais, an old Massai
woman came and stood next to us, breaking out into a ^,^^^^^66-
scornful laugh at every word I spoke. I had her put ^^^^^^ ^^
aside by two of my Somalis, and came to an agreement
with the elders of the Massai that both sides should keep the
234 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
peace, that the)' should next morning furnish me with a guide
to Baringo, for which service I was to pay, and that they were to
respect my property and I theirs.
IMy Kikuyu man had contributed greatly to the procuring of
this agreement. When he had tried to intimidate the Massais
by saying, " You cannot make war against the white man, he
comes from God. See ! he leads eleven of us Wakikuyu bound
with cords," — the Massais answered curtly and proudly, " But
we are not ^Yakikuyu, we are Massais."
After the treaty which I had concluded with them had been
sealed by the spitting ceremony, I went back to my camp, with
the feeling that, diplomatically, I had after all been beaten by
Insolent this arrogant Massai elder. My attempt to make head
onhr°^'^ against their last plans had failed when opposed to the
natives. pQJfj arrogance of this man, whose equal in imperturba-
bility could hardly be found, and who, quite at the close of the
conference, when he had concluded the treaty with me, ex-
pressed his contempt for my porters, who were sitting inside the
enclosure, by stepping up close in front of them, pointing at
them with a derisive gesture, and breaking out into a short
scornful laugh.
He may probably have scattered Zanzibar caravans often
enough. Firearms do not in themselves intimidate the Massais
at all. Even in the year 1887 they cut down, to the last man,
an Arab caravan numbering two thousand guns, laid all the
corpses in ranks and rows side by side, and in scorn put each
man's gun across his shoulder. Generally, in fact, the cara-
vans fire their guns once, and then immediately take to flight ;
Behaviour '^tisreupon they are regularly massacred to the last
of Zanzibar man by the swift-footed Massais. The Massai knows
caravans. -. .
how to protect himself from the first shot by throwing
himself on the ground, or sheltering himself behind a tree ; and
long before the muzzle-loader has been made ready for a second
discharge, he has come bounding up, to finish the matter with a
thrust of his lance.
In the evening I had four sentries posted round the camp,
and towards nine o'clock I betook myself to the margin of the
THE 2IASSAIS BREAK THEIR CONTRAST. 235
wood, to send up blue and red rockets, as a token to the
Massais that we were on the alert. I heard the Precautions
turmoil and roaring of the Massais in both kraals. ^'"'^"P'
when I turned back to mj^ camp.
In the night, I was awakened several times by shots from my
sentries. When I enquired the reason, I was told that Massais
were prowling about the camp, and had just been attempting to
steal a load of cartridges from it. Already in this night the
thought came into my mind whether it would not be best to
attack Elbejet without hesitation. As yet our people had
beaten all who had stood against them ; but terror of a critical
the Massais was still alive in the majority of the position,
porters, and I knew very well that it was just the first result
that would here be decisive. I let the idea go, however, in the
hope that the Massais would next morning fulfil the obligation
they had taken upon themselves, of providing a guide for the
journey, and that I should be able to leave the whole disagree-
able state of things behind me by a rapid march.
When I rose next morning it was reported to me, in the
first place, that the promised guide had not come ; secondly,
that, in spite of all our vigilance, two loads of stuff had
been stolen out of the midst of the camp during the demon-
s til's. 1 10 US
previous night ; and, thirdly, that we had been pelted
with arrows. Quite a number of these arrows were exhibited to
me as a proof
My resolution was now taken. If the Massais had so little
respect for our agreement of the previous day, it was clear that
if, after the kind behaviour I had exhibited on Saturday, I left
this breach of the treaty unpunished, they would proceed to far
greater acts of aggression. It was one of the most critical
decisions of the expedition, and I asked Herr von Tiedemann
for his opinion. As he agreed with me, I gave him the order
to hold thirty -five men ready for action. Silently we Prepara-
strode onward through the forest, when suddenly all l^^ the
the Somalis fell on their knees at once, and began to "*='»"•
implore the protection of Allah from what we were now to
encounter. On reaching the border of the wood we formed a
236 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
long line. I took the right wing, and gave the left to Herr von
Tiedemann,Avhile Hussein Fara led the centre. The black, white,
and red flag was carried by Rukua, who hurried on a few steps
in advance of the line. Thus we marched rapidl}?^ to the north,
directly upon the kraal. Between the kraal and ourselves were
a great number of cattle, and the man who kept them called out
to us in the most insolent tone to go round his herd, or we
should drive the beasts away. That we few men should intend
to attack Elbejet, the worthy fellow in his conceit never sup-
posed, until a bullet passed through his ribs, and permanently
silenced his insolent tongue.
On account of the cold in the morning the Massai are fond
of sleeping late, and consequently we completely surprised
Attack on Elbejet. Our fii'ing woke up the sleepers. On a
Elbejet. sudden, the men came rushing out of the gate against
us, while women and cattle ran down the declivity on the other
side in precipitate flight. I was opposed especially by the
elder with whom I had negotiated on the previous day, and by
his following. They tried to defend the entrance into the kraal.
Three of the elder's arrows flew past me ; and, for my part, I
also missed my mark twice. My third bullet crashed through
his temples. And now the Massais poured down the opposite
declivity in headlong flight. We succeeded in this first fight
in killing seven of them in all, and, so fai', we had not yet
suffered a single casualty.
I was now master of Elbejet, the dominant position of this
whole region, and had also a herd of cattle numbering more
Design *^^^ *^° thousaud in my possession. I now determined
to hold to send back a part of my company to the camping-
place by the river, and at once to bring up all my
column to this capital position. This resolve, though un-
doubtedly judicious in itself, could not be carried into execu-
tion, because suddenly the rattling of musketry sounded from
the camp, and I saw that great bands of Massais were rushing
Back to the towards it from all sides. If the camp should be taken
camp. |jy ^j^g Massais, and our ammunition thus fall into their
hands, we were all of us lost. Therefore, back to the camp
.lA"^
A DANGEROUS MARCH. 237
at full speed to guard it. For my part, I had shot away all my
cartridges, and was obliged to hasten to my loads of ammu-
nition. The trumpet gave the signal for a retreat, which
was accordingly commenced by us in perfect order. For all
that, in the course of it, three of my jjeople were laid low by the
Massais, Nogola, the Mangema elder, being one of them.
On arriving in the camp I at once had ammunition served
out — to the Somalis as many cartridges as each of them was
able to carry ; for myself seventy -five cartridges, fifty of which
I entrusted to Rukua. In an instant the tents were down, and
the order was given to march out of the wood towards ne order
the right. I went on in advance with Musa Somal, Alo "^ ™*'^oi^-
Agal, and my two servants, Rukua and Buana Mku, to decide
upon the road for the column. The great herds, the camels,
the donkeys, and women, were placed in the centre, and Herr
von Tiedemann, with another detachment of Somalis, brought
up the rear.
We had been marching only three minutes through the
forest, some thirty yards in advance of the column, when Alo
Agal suddenly reported, "Mimanka brenjehei!" (Many men!)
And there they were coming on, the proud Elmoran of the
Massais, like a great pack of wolves, in hundreds, pass- ^^^^^^
ing tree by tree to get at us. Alo had scarcely made by the
, . n . n ,n 1 1 • 1 ■ 1 Elmoran.
his report to me, when he fell dead at my side, pierced
by an arrow. Rukua and Buana Mku, as soon as they saw
what was coming upon us, were seized with a panic, and fled
precipitately towards the column. I knew perfectly well that if
I did the same the Massais would come thronging after us with
their battle-cry, and we should be defeated and overthrown
in an instant. Consequently I made up my mind to take up
the gauntlet there and then ; and it was fully clear to me that
now every bullet must find its billet, if this day was not to
bring the end of things for me, and perhaps for the German
Emin Pasha Expedition also.
Then a very singular combat occurred here in the river
forest of the Gnare Gobit. From tree to tree the Massais
advanced, but always with caution, to cover themselves from
238 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the bullets. I ma)^ say truly, that for the next few minutes I
A running g^ve up my life and all of us for lost ; nevertheless,
flgit- on noticing the perfect skill of their method of attack,
I could not suppress a kind of admiration of my opponents,
whom, at the same time, I mortally hated. Several times I
succeeded in knocking over two of the foremost Massais with
a double shot ; whereat the others were startled, and left me
time to load again. But it was especially Musa's repeating gun
that had quite a remarkable effect upon them. With the muzzle-
loaders they had already made acquaintance, but the system of
the repeaters must have appeared to them supernatural, and
therefore uncanny. Meanwhile I was calling for Hussein ; and
after five minutes of the most painful anxiety I was joyfully
surprised at seeing my people at last hastening up from behind
1 f to the rescue. A Massai, who was just preparing to
reinforce- thrust at me, was first laid low by a bullet in the
face from our kitchen-boy Fargalla ; and now, with a
hurrah, I advanced upon the Massais. At first they stood firm,
but gradually they gave ground ; and after half an hour of
fighting we reached the margin of the wood, from which the
Massais, with their faces still turned towards us, slowly re-
treated towards Elbejet, drawing off on each side.
By this time the rear column, with Herr von Tiedemann, had
also been attacked, and the rattle of musketry at times increased
to an extent that was somewhat alarming for me. Herr von
Tiedemann got into imminent danger of his life, by the sudden
Herr von ^^^1^^'^ ^^ the mcchauism of his repeating rifle, while
Tiedemann the Massais Were likewise pressing in upon him. But
the intervention of the porters — the preliminary fight
having allowed the time necessary for bringing them into line-
very soon decided the affair on this side also ; and now I pressed
forward more and more upon Elbejet, driving away the Massais
right and left, until I had two-thirds of the hill in my power.
The command, " Misigo miote embele ! " (" All loads to the
„. ^ front ! "), which I called into the wood, was a welcome
Victory. . ^' ' ^
signal to Herr von Tiedemann that the affair in the front
had been decided in our favoiu* ; and presently there appeared,
BURNING OF TEE ELBEJET. 239
on the margin of the forest, first my camels, then the goat-
herds, and, lastly, all the porters with their loads. These
loads I caused to be laid down, two-thirds of the way up the
hill, and drew up the people for the second attack on Elbejet
itself.
At first we moved cautiously towards one of the gates, in
front of which we took up our position ; and then we moved
round the kraal to the other gates. As we slowly ap-
1, J ii_ i 111 J r Second
proacned the entrance to the kraal we became aware, attack on
to our satisfaction, that Elbejet was abandoned. At ^^''^•'^*'
the second attack we had also discovered our two loads, that
had been stolen the previous night. Now I gave orders to have
Elbejet plundered, and set on fire at eight corners.
There were howls and roars of rage when the Massais, who
were concealed by thousands in the thicket round the hill,
beheld what we intended to do, and saw that what they had
been accustomed to inflict upon others was now for once
happening to themselves, in their own country.
What time the Advent bells were calling to church in
Germany, the flames were crackling over the great kraal on all
sides, and mounting towards the heavens. "We felt a Burning of
short glow of triumph ; which was, however, very soon ^^^ ^'^**^-
removed by the thought of what had now to be done.
At the side where I had fought, we found forty- three Massai
corpses, all killed by bullets in front. But the loss of the
Massais must certainly have amounted to three times that
number, as the fighting had been just as hot in the rear as in
front, and the enemy had in most cases been able to carry off
their fallen fellow-tribesmen. As those who had fallen on our
side, seven in number, had been mutilated in a shameful
manner, we made reprisals, for our people cut the heads off the
.^lassai corpses, and hurled them high through the air, and
down among their fellow-countrymen by the hill below.
But we had lost seven men in the fight ; a loss which was
sufficiently grave, considering our scanty numbers. But much
more serious was the fact of which I became aware while the
flames of Elbejet were soaring up, namely, that the Somalis
240 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
had shot off nine hundred cartridges from their repeating guns,
and that consequently I had only six hundred cartridges left.
Serious ex- ^^6 porters, too, had fired away quite inordinate quan-
penditure ^j^-j^.^ gf ammunition. In fact, I could have exclaimed
of ammuni- .
tion. flith Pyrrhus, " One more such victory, and 1 am
lost ! " For I was not even in a position to go through with
a second fight like the one I had just waged. The Massais had
only to keep on attacking us, and they would with mathematical
certainty hunt us to death.
Added to this, I Avas entirely without guides for the road, and
in a hostile country where we could not expect to receive any
information as to the whereabouts of water.
It was eleven in the forenoon. My column was to the last
degree exhausted. Some of the people had also been wounded
with arrows. I had a great mind to encamp up on the
of proceed- hill for the rest of the day. On the other side of it the
'"^' Elmordn kraal was still standing, into which I could
throw my column. But in that case I should probably have
had to fight my way anew to water, and, beyond this, I should
be exposed to the far greater danger of the Massais drawing re-
inforcements from the neighbouring district of Lashau, so that
on the next morning we should have a much more perilous
battle to fight out than we had fought to-day. In such a
position as mine, thoughts of retreat will flash for a moment
through a man's brain. How if I marched back to Kikuyu,
and from thence undertook an advance in some fresh direction ?
The sweet peace of the evenings lately passed came with
seductive power before my soul.
I rejected both the ideas that occurred to me, and at half-
past eleven gave orders for marching onward in a course
Orders for towards the north-east. There I might hope to find a
^"^ ^*'*"°®- water-course, either the Gnare Gobit or the Guaso
Xyiro. But the chief thing was, that I should thus get out of
the centre of the infuriated Gallas, and might hope, by making
a circuit, to avoid their whole territory.
Forward, therefore ! The great herds in the centre, all loads
l^acked, I set the column in motion along the hill. On the
"THE 2IASSAIS AGAIN DEFEATED." 241
opposite side I first had the Elmordn kraal set on fire, and then
marched in slow time down by the north-east slope of the hill.
Not a single nail of all our property was left as a prize ^^^ ^.^^^
to the Massais ; not one head of all the cattle we had ran kraai
taken was left behind. The Massais, who did not at
first understand our movements, presently set out on the
march behind us, at a convenient distance. But the bullets
that we sent towards them from time to time, from my double
barrel and from Tiedemann's repeater, kept them far from the
column.
Towards three in the afternoon I succeeded in finding an
approach to the river, by which I could water my thirsty
caravan, men and animals. Northward of this place I saw a
hill above the river that commanded the surrounding region,
and here I would pitch my camp. I made towards it with my
advanced guard, and found that it was occupied by many
hundred Massais. My nerves were so relaxed, and the The Massais
occurrences of the previous night and of the present ^Jeir pj^i™
morning had made us so indifferent to danger, that, *""•
without waiting for the main column, I marched forward towards
the hill with the few men I had with me, and fired into the
Somalis. And the defeat of that morning had made such an
impression upon these people, that they rushed from the place
in wild flight, and crossed over to the right bank of the Guaso
Nyiro.
Above, I found an enclosure for cattle. I at once had
twelve sentries posted round about the hill to watch the
Massais, who occupied the heights around, had the tents pitched,
and established my column comfortably. Each man received
permission to kill as many beasts as he liked, and then ^jg^stfor
a terrible slaughter began among the oxen and sheep, the black
The digestive powers of a negro are of a magnitude of
which we in Europe can hardly form a conception. If he has
one sheep he eats it up ; if several are given to him he makes
them disappear in the same manner.
Towards evening I betook myself, with some of my soldiers,
to a ford below the hill by the river, and had great quantities
16
i!42 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
of water carried up for the column for cooking purposes. Not
a Massai was to be seen.
Our frame of mind was a very grave, but by no means an
unhappy one. Herr von Tiedemann wrote a conclusion to his
journal on that day, because he thought we should not outlive
the night. I also was of opinion that the Massais would attempt
an attack in force during the night, and consequently kept the
half of the column commanded by Herr von Tiedemann
Precautions '^
against Under arms until midnight, and the other half, which I
surprise, commanded, watchedfrom midnight until morning. I
had outposts pushed far forward, which were visited continually,
and watchfires were lighted as far down the slopes of the hill as
possible.
The night was pitch dark. Showers of rain fell at intervals.
I also caused rockets to be thrown up, to show the Massais that
An anxious we Were ou guard. The noise of these rockets unfor-
"'^^*' tunately scared away a part of our herd, on which we
never set eyes again.
In all these troubles the only comfort was resignation to the
unalterable decrees of Providence, and the conviction, that what-
ever might happen I had no need to give the hated foe the
satisfaction of having themselves given me my death. In such
a case I considered I should be fully justified in reserving my
last revolver bullet for myself
Before daybreak I marched away in a northerly direction.
Whatever we could not carry off with us of the Massai furniture
March ^® ^^^ Captured I had broken to pieces, so that it
along the should uot fall again into the hands of the enemy. The
whole morning we skirted the margin of the river in a
north-west direction. Not a Massai showed himself. The bound-
less steppe seemed dead, as it had appeared two days before.
After a march of seven hours, necessarily slow, as the
herds of cattle had to be kept to right and left of the column,
we came to a bend in the river, where it turns suddenly towards
the west. . Here I found a ford, on which I made the whole
column cross to the right shore, and then again set up my camp
in a Massai kraal on the hill, on the opposite bank.
PERILS AND TROUBLES ;— THE ECLIPSE. 243
Could it be that the Massais were giving up the notion of
taking revenge for their defeat of the previous day ? j, b f i
We tried to persuade ourselves to nourish this hope ; tactics of
and for a little distraction from our cares Herr von
Tiedemann and I, after breakfasting, sat down in my tent to a
game of ecarte.
Towards five o'clock my servant came into the tent to re-
port, " Massai wanakuga ! " (" The Massais are coming ! ") We
went out to the entrance of the tent, and, sure enough, there
they were, advancing across the chains of hills that lay by the
shore ; marching on silently, in columns, ever from east to
west. A troop came close up to the other margin of An attempt-
the river, and established itself under a tree on the meat frus-
shore, exactly opposite our camp. I called for my t"^^'***-
rifle, and shot across, hitting one fellow in the leg, whereupon
the whole column incontinently decamped.
I had now made up my mind for the last and decisive
combat. If the Massais attacked again, after their defeat of the
previous day, I could only assume that all this was done in the
full determination to destroy our column at any cost. That
was only to be effected by simply rushing upon us regardless of
the number slain on their side, and thrusting us to death with
their lances.
Then, suddenly, a thing happened such as I had until then
been accustomed to read of only in romantic pictures of travel.
At about five minutes past twelve the sun all at once began to
be darkened. At first we did not ourselves know the meaning
of this, but very soon saw that a total eclipse of the An oppor-
sun was commencing its course. More and more ecupse of
deeply did the gloom spread over the wide desert land- ^'^^ '^°-
scape, out of which the Kenia and the Subugu la Poron yet
reared their heads threateningly aloft. As though the earth
would throw itself once more into that chaos and old night
whence it issued forth, so lay the lofty plateau of Leikipia
before our gazing eyes. The shudder of the infinite crept even
into our hearts, lifting them above the present, and the cares
that were before us. My own people were seized with terror at
244 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
this sign from the Godhead which was being displayed in the
heavens. So much does each individual feel as if he were in
the centre of the created world, that he associates even the
great phenomena of nature with his petty destiny.
The Massais, w^hom I had allowed, two days before, to enter-
tain the belief that I was commissioned by their Engai, believed,
as I heard a few days later, that in this appearance in the sky
they beheld a great stroke of magic of my effecting. Or
perhaps they thought that there was in the eclipse of
the phe- the suu a warning from their god to themselves. Cer-
on the tain it is, that when the sun illumined the landscape
assais. ^j^pg more, we saw them marching away westward, in
separate bodies, silently, as they had come ; and there was no
attack made upon us that evening. Only a single outpost was
established on the hill beyond the river. The Massais set fire
to one of their own kraals, probably to warm themselves, and
as I assumed, to keep us awake. In the evening my servants
waited at supper, each with his rifle on his shoulder, as we sat
On the at table, and I was again compelled to keep half the
alert. column under arms through the night. Real sleep
was, of course, not to be thought of.
Next morning I searched the valleys by the river for hostile
spies, and I succeeded in starting a few on the opposite bank.
I shot at these fellows, but without hitting one of them.
At six o'clock I started on the march, with the conviction
that the Massais were certainly on the right road to annihilate
us. They had only to keep us constantly awake, so as to
Fabian Scatter our nervous power, and to attack us from time
tactics to time, that we might shoot away our cartridges, and
possible. T 111 .
there could be no question but that we should fall
victims to them at last.
It was December 24th, a day on which we are accustomed
in Germany to light up the Christmas tree. On this day we
March of "^^^'^hed until one o'clock in the afternoon, always in
r^c^mber a north-west direction. On the march a number of
sheep and goats dropped down, and I had them killed,
for I would not let them fall alive into the hands of the
JfERRY CHRISTMAS. 245
Massais. My attention was kept on the alert the whole of this
morning by Massais, who continually marched in a parallel
line with our expedition on the opposite bank of the river. I
shot across several times, but uselessly, for the distance was
too great.
At one o'clock I had the camp pitched once more upon a
hill that commanded a view of all the surrounding country, on
the right bank of the Guaso Nyiro. I distributed a load of
powder among the bearers, and kept them casting bullets the
whole afternoon. I also completed the supplies of repeating
gun cartridges carried by the Somalis, so that each
11- • . -, . . Preparing
man had again sixty cartridges m his bag. Then I ammunj-
gave each of my bearers a piece of red cloth, as a head ^^°^'
covering, from the flag stuffs we had brought with us, to make
their outward appearance more warlike, and to imbue them
additionally with the feeling of the soldier.
Thus the state of feeling in the camp was one of consider-
able liveliness, and the cheerfulness was increased when, shortly
before three o'clock, I succeeded in bringing down, with a good
shot at eight hundred yards, the leader of the seven Massais,
who had also halted on the further shore opposite to us.
The Guaso Nyiro flows round the hill on which we lay, in
almost an exact half-circle. That evening I established eight
outposts round the camp, and again had fires kindled in advance
of these.
At six o'clock we were at supper, and something like a
Christmas feeling came into our hearts. I asked Herr von
Tiedemann to keep watch for a few hours, and to wake j^^igt^rbg^
me a little before midnight. I wanted to celebrate Christmas
Christmas Eve by stretching myself on my camp bed
as early as half-past seven, though fully dressed, and endeavour-
ing to get a few hours' sleep.
At ten o'clock I was awakened by a shot, which was fol-
lowed by a whole volley. Directly afterwards I heard from the
south-south-east the hyena-like battle-howl of the Massais.
The Massais had advanced from the north, along the course
of the river, and thought to surprise our camp from the south.
246 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
They had come upon Daud Wais, who kept watch here, and he
had at once knocked one of them over, by which means the
Somalis had been alarmed. I came out of my tent, and, to
An impend- encourage my men, called out to the Massais, " Ka-
ing attack. y.[]y^^ Elmordu, mutakufa wiote!" ("Come on, Elmordn,
you shall all die ! " )
I at once had everything in the way of camp-fires extin-
guished, gave over to Herr von Tiedemann the command on
the river side where we were not attacked, and myself turned
to the further side, where the Massais were howling. I had
everything we possessed in the way of chests and loads pushed
forward, and ordered my people to lie down behind this rampart,
to shelter themselves from the hail of arrows from without.
Plan of Till this was done they were to keep up a partial fire
operations, ^f yoUeys upou the Massais, to frighten them from
attempting to storm our camp. Then I had rockets brought,
and one rocket after another flew hissing up into the black sky
of night, giving just enough light to enable our best shots to
pick out their mark among the threatening figures. A fantastic
picture, which could not fail of its effect upon sensitive nerves.
My people set up a rhythmical song, always ending with the
burden, " Kupkndu, Kupkndu Scharro ! "
This night was indeed a whimsical illustration of the biblical
text, " Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good-
will toward men ! " The crackling of the rockets, the roaring
of my own people, and the banging of the shots, together made
a din that truly appeared more consonant with the Walpurgis
night of the First of May than with the solemn seriousness of
the celebration of the birthday of Christ.
Till one o'clock did the din continue. Then we heard the
roaring of the retreating Massais gradually dying away in the
south. On our side only one man had been wounded, a porter
Eesuits of of the name of Boma ; he had been shot through
the fight, ^jjg ^j.jjj jjy ^]^g Somalis, in the line of whose fire he
had foolishly placed himself. The Massais had had greater
losses, as was proved next morning by numerous pools of blood
and various shields that had been left behind.
THE GUASO NYIRO PLATEAUS. 247
ThuS' the surprise had failed ; but our situation next morn-
ing was more gloomy than on the previous day. The Massais
had it in their power to attack when they would. If they were
beaten, the situation remained for them unaltered. But continued
if we were only once beaten we were all of us lost. **''&«'^-
Added to this was the fact that for four nights I had been with-
out real sleep.
Towards sunrise I started once more with my exhausted
column. I marched onward, for an hour, along the right bank
of the Guaso Nyiro, which I then crossed by a ford. I wished
on that day to try and make an advance in a more westerly
direction across the steppe, as I could not know at all whither
the Guaso Nyiro would lead me.
"We were now away from the districts that are touched by
the winds which sweep down from the Kenia. We came into
completely dried-up plateaus, which had been burnt by the
Massais only a short time before. The plains which south-
ward of the Leikipia appear slightly undulating, here exhibit
themselves in a more massive and compact form. ^ ^
r Features
They are real border plateaus, of which the one that of the
is placed higher always leans steeply towards the lower
one, forming to a certain extent a fringe. In the north, pecu-
liarly-formed groups of stone are found on these plains, and give
the landscape a strange and remarkable appearance.
The wind, whistling in a ghostly manner from the north
over the dreary steppe, whirled up columns of ashes, that went
sweeping across the plain, visible from afar like forms from
the shades below. The north wind droned or rather sighed
through the half-burnt flute trees, in melancholy fashion, a
spectral tune to the procession of these phantoms of ashes.
A feeling of infinite desolation and solitariness fell upon
our hearts, when, on the left bank of the Guaso Nyiro, we
had climbed to these plateaus. The black expanse seemed to
stretch out to infinity. Nowhere a river course or a M-ater
pool to be seen. Here and there on the horizon forms of
Massais emerged, to disappear again so soon as I fired my
far-carrying double-barrelled rifle at them.
1!48 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
So Ave went onward continually in a north-west direction,
till the sun shone perpendicularly down. Then suddenly fresh
green shone before us, and there was a decided declination in
the plateau. Could it be that we had a stream of
concerning Water before us ? Alas, no ! An anxious and accurate
■water. investigation brought the certainty that the declivity
was dry, and there seemed to be no water far and wide.
Nature confronts us here in all her bitter cruelty ; and thus
brought face to face with iron necessity, to hold-discourse only with
inexorable fate, the soul is ready to sink into despair. If there is
no water here, we all run the risk of dying of thirst on our further
advance. Therefore, " Back to the river ! " was the command.
And from our north-west course we deviated towards the east.
We marched on for two hours more. Then all at once we
saw the Guaso Nyiro again before us. At least for this after-
noon we have water !
Suddenly Rukua reports, "Massai Tele!" ("Many
Massais ! ") True enough, all the hills are covered with figures!
Then there must be more fightins;.
Beappear- ~ ~
anceof the I say, " Then we will beat the Massais here ! " But
Rukua drew my attention to an enclosure by the river,
into which we could drive our herds, and where we should have
better prospects for the fight.
Forward then ! In with the herds into the enclosure, which
is at once shut. " Bunduke teare ? " (" The guns ready .?•") I
cry to my people. " Teare," is the reply of all.
So we wait for the decisive combat, perhaps with a secret
M'ish that it may put a period to our troubles.
But not a Massai appears. Suddenly an old Massai woman
approaches, waving the bunch of grass.
"What is that?" I say.
" The Massais want peace," the Wakikuyu tell me in reply.
Perhaps I never approached a lady with greater eagerness
Pacific over- than I now displayed, with an expenditure of all my
tures. gallantry, towards this repulsive-looking old Massai
woman. I also caught up a bunch of grass, and took care that
there should be a flower among it. I came forward as grace-
THE ^^AfiSAIii IXriTE A PARLEY.
249
I'uUy as possible towards the lady, and seized her by the hand,
to induce her to seat herself beside me.
Peace Proposals proii the Massais.
The confabulation was soon in progress. I heard that the
Massais wished to have peace with me, provided I would refrain
from burning any more of their villages, sliooting at them, or
carrying off their herds.
250 .VEir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
I replied to the Massai woman that I was quite ready to
promise this, if the Massais would furnish me with guides to the
Dialogue Baringo. " But," said I, " whither does this river run
MaLl am- heside which we are now ? "
bassadress. gj^g indicated that the Guaso Nyiro, in the first
instance, flowed on to the north, but that northward of the
Endika Mountains it turned towards the east.
" How far is the Guaso Narok from here ? "
" About a day and a half, if you follow the Guaso Nyiro ;
one day, if you march across to the Guaso Narok."
" And where does the Guaso Narok come from ? "
She pointed in the direction towards the Baringo.
" How far is the Baringo lake from here ? "
" Five days, if you march well."
" Do Massais live there, too ? "
"The Massais live everywhere," she answered.
" Surely it is not the custom with you for women to decide
concerning peace and war ? If the Massais wish to have peace
with me, let them send to me men of their tribe, to whom I
can give presents, and with whom we will conclude the treaty
of peace in due form."
She promised that towards evening eleven men of the
Massais should come to me into the camp ; and so went away,
with a ring on her finger that I had put there, and with the
flowers in her hand, to carry the message of peace to her
tribe.
At the dinner which now followed, I took the oppor-
Arthur tuuity of delivering a short address to Herr von
hauer'T" Tiedemauu on Arthur Schopenhauer's negativity of
philosophy, ^-j^g perception of pleasure. After all, it seemed that
the Christmas message was to find its fulfilment with us.
A costlier Christmas present even Europe could not have
offered us.
Unfortunately, on this day, for the first time, the early
symptoms appeared in Herr von Tiedemann of a serious disease,
dysentery, by which he was attacked two days later.
I have forgotten to mention that since our departure from
A CONFERENCE, AND A TREATY. 251
Kikuyu we had no longer vegetable food, but had to confine
ourselves entirely to a flesh diet. To this were added the cold
nights and the exciting incidents ; the result being that several
cases of illness occurred among my people.
At six o'clock in the evening eleven Massais appeared, but
did not venture to come into our camp. I did not feel inclined
to expose myself unarmed to their lances, as I knew well enough
the malignity of these fellows. So I took a few people with me
armed with rifles, which were laid down in a demonstrative
manner, while I requested the Massais to do the same on their
side, and to meet me at a spot half way between the a treaty of
two piles of weapons. This was done, and conditions p®*"*'
of peace were at once settled by both sides on the basis of the
agreement of the afternoon, and ratified by the men mutually
spitting at each other three times. I then gave a finger ring
and a few beads to each of the Massais, and in token that our
tribe and theirs would live in friendship and peace together I
killed one of the sheep I had myself taken from the Massais, and
gave it to them. They asked permission to sleep that night in
the camp ; but this I cautiously declined, telling them it
would be better if they slept some distance away. If they came
to the camp at night, my sentries had orders to fire at ^^^^^^^^ g^,
them. I was the more cautious, iust because we had eluded from
'' . -f the camp.
made peace, and instead of the usual eight outposts 1
doubled them that night. I also remained, the greater part of
the night, sitting on my chair, in front of my tent, in the open
air ; on such occasions I was accustomed to make astronomical
observations with Hussein Fara.
Next morning the Massais duly made their appearance,
ostensibly to fulfil the part they had undertaken of the contract,
by leading us to the Baringo. The negotiations with them
continued to be conducted by a very worthy young our Kikuyu
Kikuyu man, who looked so strikingly like old Vol- "
taire, that I had bestowed upon him that name, which at once
became popular with my expedition and among the Massais.
The Kikuyu people began to feel very comfortable with the
column. First of all, it had been a matter of great rejoicing to
2.32 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
them to see their deadly enemies, the haughty Massais, so
thoroughly beaten. Then they feasted to their hearts' content
on the number of sheep and goats I caused to be given to them.
Thev do not slaughter these creatures, but strangle
TheKikuyu •' , n? n t i i • • xi xi i
mode of kiii-them, SO that all the blood remams in the flesh,
mg cattle, gig^^^gj^^gj-gfj j^g^t ^g j^gt as detestable to them as
strangled beasts would be to us. The sight of one of them
holding a sheep or a goat by the throat, and choking it to death,
always struck me as something completely disgusting.
Quitting the river, we now again ascended the elevated
plateau to the left, on which we moved forward, still keeping a
north-west direction. Soon, there came in sight to the west-
west-north-west the long ranges which, the Massais informed us,
Avere called the Subugu la Baringo (Subugu signifying a fringe
of mountains). That, therefore, must be the Dongo
The Dbngo ^ ^
Geiesha Gelesha. On the plateau we found great herds of
*"^*" Massai cattle, and for the sake of peace and quietness
I willingly consented to halt until the Massais had driven these
away from our, to them, unwelcome vicinity. When this had
been done, young Massai warriors hastened up to us to greet
us with the usual salutations of " Sotua " (friend). All this
had a very pleasant appearance.
Towards noon we descended from the plateau, to the right,
to a dry river-bed, and came upon an entirely black volcanic
region. The name Guaso Narok signifies in the Massai lan-
guage Black River, because it flows over black stones ; for me,
therefore, this dark ground was a satisfactory sign that we were
The'Teiekii'eally approaching the river. A dark, high-towering
Rock. • volcanic group of rocks, that we left on our right between
the afiiuence of the Guaso Narok and the Guaso Nyiro, I called
the " Teleki Rock," after my forerunner on the Guaso Nyiro
territory.
The heat upon the black stones began to be disagreeable.
We now came upon a broad sheep track. The Massais informed
me that I had only to follow this track, and I should reach the
Guaso Narok in an hour. In the meantime, they said, they
Avould go to their houses to get provisions. So I went on with
?^i«a;
THE MASSAIS RELAPSE. 253
Hussein and Rukua, in front of the column, in search of the
Guaso Narok.
The behaviour of the native population entirely changed in
these mid-day hours, inasmuch as all we saw hurried
away from us in an altogether inexplicable flight. All in nativT
this was very suspicious. behaviour.
Towards two o'clock I found eight donkeys and a loaded ox.
They had been abandoned by their masters, and were carrying
household implements and milk. Following up the ox spoor, I
came into a narrow valley. By this time it was three The narrow
o'clock, and the affair began to be very serious, i^aiiey.
resolved to halt and await my column, but meanwhile to send
out Hussein and another Somali, who had come up, to ascertain
if the course of the Guaso Narok was to be found in a long
valley that opened before us. The messengers had not yet
returned, when suddenly the rattling of musketry sounded
behind me.
All at once the surrounding heights were covered with
Massai warriors. Now all was explained. I had the loads at
once deposited together, and commanded fifteen porters,
who had arrived in the meantime, to go back with me. pearance of
But my people had become so tired and stiff through
the burning march that I could not get six men together. So
I hurried back myself, accompanied only by one Somali, to see
what had happened.
Directly afterwards, I met Herr von Tiedemann with the
camel-driver. He reported that our Massais of the evening
before had, on a sudden, treacherously stabbed our sick porter
Saburi. They had, indeed, been at once scared away by himself
and the Somalis, but Saburi had expired in terrible agony. So
the racket was all to begin afresh ! Exhausted as I had before
felt, I was filled with such rage at the thought of the dastardly
assassination, and, at the same time, with such contempt for these
Massais, that the idea of fighting them was altogether agreeable
to me.
" Forward ! Drive the donkeys to the porters ! " I cried to
the Somalis, when I saw the eight Massai donkeys still standing
254 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
there, that I had till now refrained from taking. " Let us kill
the cowardly rascals like dogs ! " The Somalis were not
somaiis dis- exactly edified by this prospect, nor could they under-
courage . ^^^^^^ ^^y indignation at the tactics of the Massais,
which seemed to them entirely justifiable, as the blood spilling
of December 22nd had not yet been expiated. However, I suc-
ceeded in seizing five of the donkeys ; a very welcome booty for
the overladen column.
When I got back to the resting-place Hussein reported to
me that the long valley before us was dry. On the right hand,
joining it at right angles, there was certainly a river course,
but it contained not a drop of water.
Here lay the real danger ! Judging by all that had hap-
pened, I was obliged to consider that I had been completely over-
reached by the Massais. The thermometer stood at about 50° C.
(122° F.). We were steaming with the glowing heat. Our dry
tongues clave to the roofs of our mouths. And here we lay,
. ,. , surrounded by hostile warriors, who only awaited the
A distress- -' / •'
fui predioa- moment when we appeared entirely exhausted to make
an attack upon us. In such moments Nature assumes
something of an unpitying, even of a cruel character, as I once
experienced in the English Channel, where I was hurled down
by the raging billows, apparently to inevitable destruction.
There is no deliverance from without ; a man feels unsparingly
thrown back upon himself. But it is just in such positions
that the despairing heart is suddenly penetrated with the
thorough conviction of a protecting Providence. Even separate
resolves then appear like inspirations from above.
Thus it was with me at that moment. All at once the
thought thrilled through me, that if I hurried forward over a
declivity in the west of the neighbouring valley I should find
A sudden Water. Therefore forward ! " Blow the trumpet ! Beat
inspiration, ^^g drum ! The flag in advance, and away with the
Massais ! " An impression, as of the supernatural, must have
been made upon these Massais, who were watching us on all
sides, when they saw us make this sudden movement, exactly in
the direction in which water really lay. There was no real
WATER A PARAMOUNT NECESSITY. 255
resistance on their part, when we suddenly turned oif at a right
angle from our road. Whatever men showed themselves on the
rocks were at once shot down, and thus we started off on a
march for life or death towards the west.
Behind us the Massais followed like hyenas ; but they
cautiously kept out of gunshot. Now and then I heard the
sound of the guns echoing from the hills in front of me or behind
me, just as the double crack of my rifle was heard by the rear.
But what did we all care, at that moment, for the Massais .P
Within us there was a cry for water, water ! Yonder
a river course becomes visible. " Webigi ! " cried the disappoint-
Somalis. " Madgi ! " cried the porters. We came up
to it, and — ^the watercourse was empty ! It was evidently the
same that Hussein had already seen lower down.
The sun is sinking low ! It is four in the afternoon ! What
is to be done ?
" We will cross over the next row of heights, to see if we
can perhaps find water on the other side ! " I called out to
Hussein and Musa, who, with me, formed the advanced guard.
Onward, therefore ! When I had climbed half-way up the hill,
Tiedemann came hurrying up, calling to me from below,
" Come back, Doctor ; the Massais are attacking us from the
rear!" "Then do you beat back the Massais; I shall search
for water."
Aloft on the height stood a broad Massai kraal, near which
a man was sitting. Like wolves we sprang upon him ; the
Somalis seized him, and I held the muzzle of my six- .
' ■' An oppor-
chambered revolver to his temples. " Show me the tune
Guaso Narok, or depart into the world below." "Guaso
Narok," he answered, trembling with fear; "Guaso Narok
hana " ("Guaso Narok there"), pointing with his hand to the
valley below. It was an Andorobbo who gave us this joyful
news. I believe that no angel's voice could at that moment
have inspired me to offer more sincere thanks to the Thankful
Highest. "Who saved me from death, from slavery! feelings.
Hast Thou not Thyself accomplished everything, holy, glowing
heart ? " Ah ! how humbly, on this evening of December 26th,
256 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
did I put away from me anj' such expression of Titanic daring [
How devoutly did I bend before that mysterious Power that
shapes the fate of men, and had once more saved us from
perishing miserably !
Gradually the porters came dropping in, and I at once sent
twenty -five of them, with a suitable military escort, down to
the river with the Andorobbo to bring water. Then Herr von
Tiedemann came in. I had sat down in my arm-chair at the
entrance to the kraal, had already quenched my thirst from the
Jo fuimeet -^wdorobbo's jug, and was smoking a pipe. "Well,
ing with Herr von Tiedemann, a little tired ? " " Water ; have
we any water .P" "Water," I rejoined, with feigned
indifference, " why should we not have water ? Down yonder
is the Guaso Narok. Meanwhile do you take this," and I
handed him the jug by my side, " or would you like a mouthful
of brandy with it ? " Herr von Tiedemann seized my hand with
both his own. " Thank God ! Then we shall perhaps get to
Lake Baringo after all."
I threw my column of porters and the herd of cattle into
the Massai kraal, which I made defensible by burning a
few of the outlying buildings. Our tents, and that of the
Somalis, I caused to be erected outside. I again established
eight outposts, as the camp-fires of the Massais glared
A comfort- threateningly down from all the hills around. At
able supper. ^^^^ o'clock we Were sitting comfortably in the
moonlight over a mutton cutlet, with cognac and water, and
I had once more an opportunity of explaining to Herr von
Tiedemann Schopenhauer's theory of the negativity of pleasur-
able sensations.
This night I had, for the first time since many days, a
lengthened sleep, and I made my servant Rukua lie down
before the door of the tent ; and the Somalis had assured
me that, for their part, they would keep the sentries suffi-
ciently awake. I had also arranged that the column should
not take the road next morning until half-past six ; and so
I woke up, on December 27th, refreshed, and like a new
man.
MARCH ACROSS THE STEPPE. 257
Unhappily, such was not the case with Herr von Tiedemann.
On the preceding night he had not heen ahle to sleep, Herr von
and on that morning dysentery definitely declared mann's
itself. illiiess-
Towards seven o'clock, with my herd and my whole column,
I crossed the Guaso Narok, which rushed below clear and fresh
over the rocks.
On the opposite side of the river a few Wandorohbo came
towards me, and informed me that the donkeys which I had
taken away on the previous day belonged to them. As they
were not, however, able to bring any proof of this statement, I
rejected it as "unfounded." On their part they declined my
proposition that they should approach a little nearer, to dis-
course with me concerning the way to the Baringo.
Amid enormous difficulties, partly through hard and thorny
thickets, we got to the summit towards nine o'clock. Before
us lay a black, charred steppe, over which the north Difficult
wind swept, while a deserted Massai kraal appeared ™ross the
here and there. When we looked down the slope we ^*«pp«-
had climbed the eye could follow, to an apparently immeasur-
able distance, the course of the Guaso Narok, bending off towards
the south-west, and behind it, in the far distance, the slopes of
the Elbejet district.
We now advanced in a west-north-west direction. Of
Massais not a trace was to be seen. All kraals were empty.
Until one o'clock I marched, according to the compass, exactly
keeping the direction I had taken. Soon it was reported to me
that the herd could no longer follow, and that a part of it had
already given in on the way. This compelled me to a compui-
halt to draw the column together again. I gave the ^oryhait.
people half an hour s rest, and intended then to go on until
the evening. But Herr von Tiedemann reported to me that he
was ill, and would not be able to make a forced march of this
kind. Of course, this decided the matter.
I had had the plateau inspected, far in advance, by Rukua.
\A hen he came back at two o'clock, with the announcement that
water was nowhere to be found, I gave up the advance I had
17
258 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
l)]annecl, and turned in a southerly direction towards the Guaso
Narok.
At four o'clock, hastening on far in advance of my column,
I came upon a deserted Massai kraal, in which I hoisted our
flasj, and took possession of it for our use. It was soon
Hoisting ~ ^ i
the German cleaned up by my people, and by a little help put in a
^^^' condition of defence. So soon as Herr von Tiedemann
was established there, I went off with a few of my people in a
southern direction in search of water.
At about five o'clock we found a pool of water among some
boulders of stone, and the whole column was able to cook some-
thing for supper.
That night I found it only necessary to establish three posts
around the kraal, and for the second time I had a healthy
sleep, as we were in perfect safety within our enclosure, sup-
posing an efficient watch to be kept.
For December 28th I resolved to give the exceedingly
exhausted column, and especially Herr von Tiedemann, a day's
rest. I confined myself to removing the camp some distance
nearer to the water we had discovered the evening before, and
Fortifying again threw the column into a strong Massai kraal,
the camp. ^]^ig]^^ \yy burning the outworks and strengthening the
enclosure, I converted into a perfectly impregnable fortress.
It was grey, dreary weather, and of the Massais there was not
a trace to be seen by day or night. But the disquieting circum-
stance was, that regularly by night their camp-fires gleamed
upon the neighbouring hills ; a sign that now, as ever, they
were prowling like hyenas round our column by night, and that
the greatest caution must be our permanent rule.
As Herr von Tiedemann was now confined to his bed, I was
more than before compelled to depend upon myself; and in these
weeks I found comfort in reading Carlyle's " Frederick II.,"
whose shining example now wrought its effect in troublous
times, even in the distant Leikipia plateaus.
On December 29th we again pressed forward, through a
tolerably dense woodland thicket, to the Guaso Narok, whose
course I now followed, throughout a somewhat severe day's
SUBUGU LA PORON. 259
march, ever towards the south-west. The Kenia still reared its
height behind us in the south-east. The mountain, Avhich had
been my delight a few weeks ago, had now a very „ , ,
-, • m- 11 March, by
depressmg effect upon us all. We did not want to see the Guaso
it any more, because we had suffered so much on its
declivities. But immovably it looked down upon us. What
cared he, the mighty Kenia, apparently created for eternity —
what cared he for the petty movements of human suffering ?
Wherever we now came the Massais had fled before our
expedition. The kraals on the opposite side of the Guaso
Narok were likewise all of them deserted, though ^he massais
they exhibited traces of quite recent occupation ; for soared,
instance, smoking fires. This was a very satisfactory indication.
On the other hand, our caravan was again attacked on December
29th by a stupid rhinoceros, until a ball from my rifle caused
it to deviate from its course towards us, and after running
furiously round in a circle, to take to flight towards the north.
Unfortunately, a number of our people let themselves be carried
away by excitement, and sent a quantity of powder and ball
rattling uselessly behind it.
At one o'clock I again established my column in a Massai
kraal, which lay exactly to the north of the Subugu la Poron, a
mountain that had here just the appearance of the Kenia. To
my joy, the Kenia on this day began to glimmer blue, while
on the western side the boundary mountains of the Leikipia
plateau stood out more sharply. If the eternal flesh diet, with-
out any vegetable additions, had not begun to become improved
disagreeable to us, our position might by degrees have pi^ospects.
taken the character of comfort, for we had gradually become
accustomed to the system of keeping watch.
On the following day a march of seven hours brought us to
a large handsome Massai village, about at the place where the
Guaso Narok begins decidedly to bend its course to the south,
around the northern spurs of the Aberdare Chain. On this day
we had marched past a series of great papyrus marshes, papyrus
which are nothing more than stagnant portions of the ^^^^p^-
Guaso Narok on the plain, that here presents an entirely
260 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
horizontal level. These seem to be the same marshes \yhich
Thomson saw on their southern side.
In the afternoon I sent out eleven of ni)- best people, to
ascertain if the Guaso Narok here really bends towards the
south. If this were the case we had reached the point from
which, in his time, Thomson had turned off in a
Thomson's . . t i t-i • n i
route un- north-west direction to Lake Jt5armgo, and on the next
in 'the dry momiug we should have to undertake the same salto
season. mortale. It would truly be a salto mortale for us,
inasmuch as Thomson marched in the rainy season, whereas
we were now in the dry time of the year, and ran the risk of
finding no water. Accordingly, before we started I had all
our cattle watered, and after about an hour's marching we
entered the dense thorny thicket, of which, in his book of
travels, Thomson has given a doleful description. But the
affair did not appear to us so bad as Thomson makes it out.
A few Somalis marching in front, with sharp swords and
axes, opened a path for us in a north-west direction, from
which, however, I deviated at noon towards the west, hoping,
in this way, more quickly to reach the Guaso Tien, which flows
into the Baringo Lake, and was to be my basis for the further
advance.
While we were thus working our way through the thicket,
all at once the Kikuyu people threw down their loads, and dis-
Desertion appeared towards the right. I thought at first they had
Kikuyu ^^^'^ sonie Massais, and sprang towards the left side ;
porters. \^^i j^g ^q Qjjg appeared in that direction, it dawned
all at once upon me that this was not so much a case of panic,
as one of simple desertion on the part of these gentlemen, for
which I could not altogether blame them. Only two of the
Kikuyu people had been kept hold of by the Somalis, and had
to go with us as far as the Baringo. But I was obliged now to
burden the camels with the loads that had been thrown down,
whereby our march was still further retarded.
All the woodland brooks we found here were dry ; and our
state of mind was the more despondent, as we had no points of
intelligence, by which we could judge when we should succeed
DIFFICULTY IN FINDING WATER. 261
in working our way out of the thicket, or if we should do
so at all.
At noon I allowed the column a short rest. The Somalis,
and Hussein especially, prayed aloud to Allah for help, which I
always encouraged them in such circumstances to do,
, 1 • 1 rm , , Confidence
to keep up their moral tone. Ihe porters showed, as in the
they did generally in these days, a touching confidence "''''"^•"
in me personally. They said, " We shall find water, for the chief
has said it, that we should find water to-day."
Throughout the whole afternoon we worked on. At length,
from four o'clock, the thicket began to grow a little lighter. We
came to a broad rhinoceros spoor, and at five o'clock into an
open, but, unfortunately, an entirely dry valley, evidently the
one designated by Thomson the Marmose valley. Here I
pitched our camp.
Herr von Tiedemann told me, directly we were in camp, that
he had decidedly identified his symptoms with those of dysentery.
I had had a tub of water brought for the two of us, and now
had some cocoa boiled for Herr von Tiedemann. Grave
But my heart was very heavy. How could I help him ? o? vjn °"
Dysentery requires peculiar treatment. Thomson had Kedemann.
been brought down, almost to death, by this disease during his
return march out of Africa, and we had scarcely half of our
march into Africa behind us.
But it was more important, for the moment, to find water for
the caravan. For this purpose I sent two columns in a south
and south-west direction respectively, while I myself, with
Hussein Fara, went off' in a north-west direction on the seeking
same quest. Towards six o'clock we came back with ^'"^^a'ter.
our errand unaccomplished, and I ate a scanty supper alone in
front of my tent, after posting the sentries round about the
camp. Rukua had also returned, with his troop, from the south
unsuccessful.
It was New Year's Eve, and my friends in my own country
were probably sitting within the circle of their dear ones,
assembled round the punch bowl. The temperature was still
cool during the nights, and above me the stars of the equatorial
262 yK]V LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
world were flaming like thousands of mysterious signs of
interrogation. In the thicket around were heard the sounds of
the wilderness — the jackal howled, and in the distance sounded
the roar of a lion.
I was making mournful reflections on this conclusion of the
j^ear 1889, when towards midnight joyous cries suddenly re-
sounded from the southern side of the camp, and directly
afterwards the Galla man, Mandutto, Avas led up to me
found by in triumph by some porters. He had just returned
from his foraging expedition to the south-west, and on
his shoulders he carried two jugs of water. "Mandutto has
found water," was the joyful tidings, which ran at once from
mouth to mouth through the whole camp, and suddenly trans-
formed the general temper from melancholy brooding into a
lively state of joy.
With a heart full of thankfulness, I now laid myself down to
rest. In a somewhat marvellous way this danger also had
been averted ; and full of cheerful confidence I slept into the
year 1890.
The water discovered by Mandutto was brought from a rain
pool on the slope of the western margin of the Leikipia plateau.
The pool was hidden in the reedy grass, and had thus been
prevented, so far, from drying up in the sun. To this pond,
Beginning which was situate about four miles from our camp in
a new year, g^ gouth-west direction, I transferred my camp on the
morning of January 1st, and there I again held a day of rest,
before accomplishing the march to the Guaso Tien on the
following morning. The wind whistled raw and cold from the
north, true January weather; but we had water! We could
drink cocoa and cook soup; and so I spent a fine holiday,
thinking of what lay behind us. On that day I began to work
out my Massai report for Europe, and I also wrote letters to
my beloved ones at home.
We were now at an elevation of more than eight thousand
feet, and would certainly next morning come to the slope of
the Leikipia plateau towards the west.
As I sat in my tent that afternoon a report was suddenly
INTERVIEW WITH THE WANDOROBBO. 263
brought to me that there were people in the vicinity who
apparently wished to enter into communication with us.
I had them invited by signs to approach, and found thewando-
that they were young Wandorobbo. "^^'''
" Do you know the way to the Guaso Tien ? " I asked them,
when they had seated themselves in my camp.
"The Guaso Tien is very near," said they.
" It leads to the Baringo, does it not ? "
" The Baringo is out yonder." They pointed to the north-
west.
"Then that mountain yonder which we see is probably the
Dongo Gelesha ? "
They answered by lively signs in the affirmative, evidently
astonished that I knew the name.
" Now I will tell you something, my good Wandorobbo.
You are to show me the way to the Guaso Tien and to Njemps.
In return, I will give you some head of cattle, and handsome
clothes, when we arrive in Njemps."
They looked at one another, and did not seem inclined to
agree to the proposals. Accordingly I continued, —
"Where I come from, it is the custom to show the way
to strangers who come ijito the country when they ask it.
Whoever does not do that of his own free will is compelled to do
it. You do not seem inclined to follow our custom. . ^ .,.
A startling
Therefore I must ask you to sleep the night with my announce.
Somalis, so that you do not steal secretly away in dark-
ness and mist. For the rest, you will receive good treatment."
When, in spite of my friendly words, the two men suddenly
attempted to escape, they were seized by the Somalis, and
secured. The next day we marched in a very friendly manner
with them to Njemps, from whence they were allowed start for
to return to their tribe with rich presents. Thus ^Je^ips-
the chief care of the past week was overcome, and to-day,
for the first time, I looked forward with complete confidence
to the cheerful prosecution of our expedition.
Next morning we crossed the western margin of Leikipia,
guided by the two Wandorobbo, first passing through burnt-up
264 NEW LIGHT UX DARK AFRICA.
and tangled bushes, then suddenly towards the west, on a
broad way appearing almost like an avenue, down the declivity.
Suddenly my whole column broke out into a loud cry of
rapture. A green valley opened before us, into which the
Leikipia plateau fell perpendicularly down. Along this valley
TheGuaso meandered a river. " Guaso Tien," was the answer
Tien river, ^f ^]^g Wandorobbo guides to my question. Thus we
had reached the river domain of the Baringo. We had left
behind us the rough and inhospitable plateau of Leikipia, and
probably with it, for ever, the anxiety of fighting the Massais.
Through grass that grew to a man's height we marched on
for a quarter of an hour to the Guaso Tien. The river was for
the most part dry, and only in the places where a tangle of
high reeds kept off the rays of the sun was a little water, from
which the caravan refreshed itself. I resolved, accordingly, to
march farther down the river, where, according to the assertion
of the Wandorobbo, better water was to be had.
It was nearly three o'clock when we came to a mighty
gorge, where the Guaso Tien begins to cast itself, with a steep
fall, into the depths. Over rough boulders and great blocks of
stone, where we had often a difficulty in picking our way, we
A difficult clambered down. But at last the path became very
path. narrow, and disappeared altogether when we came to a
massive rock, that entirely filled up the bed of the river, pre-
senting a perpendicular descent of at least sixty -five feet. Here
was an insuperable obstacle to further climbing, and I therefore
made up my mind to pitch my camp for the night by a little bend
higher up the river, where there was a little water under the rock.
The shores rise steep on either side, so that every word,
even if spoken softly, makes a loud echo in the gorge. Here I
needed only to establish two outposts, one above and one below,
to be safe from any hostile surprise ; and when in the evening
the camp-fires of the expedition blazed up by the rocks and
in the river gorge, we had the most magnificent scenery of a
wolf's glen* before us that can be imagined.
* The " Wolfsschlucht," or wolf's glen, it will be remembered, is the scene
of the incantation of Caspar in Weber's Freischutz. — Tb.
VOLCANIC REGION OF THE GUASO TIEN. 265
On the day before, while attempting to descend with the
camels, my Somalis had discovered a path to the right of the
Guaso Tien, by which I travelled next morning. It led us
first, at an elevation of 8,100 feet, to the furthest margin
of Lake Baringo, from which the Dongo GeleshaAnewpath
appeared only like a hill of slight elevation. I had *"''''*•
from here a complete view round this very remarkable margin
land, and think I may assert that we have here to do with an
enormous crater ring, the diameter of which, as it reaches to
the ascent of Elgejo, I was afterwards able to determine at
fifteen German miles (seventy English). Within a great ring
a number of little crater rings appear to be set up, the deepest
of which is Lake Baringo itself. Thus we here stand voioanio
opposite a crater formation, to which not one that I "^'"'■
know in the world can be likened, and which I could compare
only with one of the annular systems in the moon. The
descent from this margin to the deep land is almost perpen-
dicular, and as a landscape is truly magnificent.
On a path Avinding down in a zigzag shape we now de-
scended, to strike the Guaso Tien again at a point where it
turns from its southern course, almost at a right angle, towards
the west. From here we had to follow the course of the river
itself. The rocks to the right and left, which completely close
it in, rise to the height of about eight hundred feet. In some
places they are close together, at others they are farther apart.
It seems as though the rock had here been split asunder by
some convulsion of the earth, developing a large cleft, into
which the Guaso Tien precipitates itself A remarkable thing
in the course of this river was, moreover, that wherever „
' ' Course of
it was in deep shadow it had a certain depth of water, the Guaso
but in those places where the sun shone down perpendi-
cularly upon it only a dry river-bed appeared. It was difficult
to see where the water at once came from again.
In one place the rocks were so close together that a donkey
could hardly force its way through the passage, and the camels
actually stuck fast. Consequently I had the camp pitched for
the second time below this spot, in a wider part of the gorge
266 ^V£Tr IJGIIT ON DARK AFJUCA.
itself, and remained encamped here a whole day, to pull out
the camels, which was done after much exertion.
So it was not until January 5th that we quitted the gorge
of the Guaso Tien, a river which reaches to the south-west
angle of Lake Baringo, to turn our steps, in a westward course
on the edge of the declivity, directly across the plain of
Njemps. The Dongo Gelesha now lay to the north-east, and
soon appeared, looked at from below, in all its imposing slope,
before us. On this day 1 had the camp pitched below the
Dongo Gelesha, by a little affluent of the Guaso Tien. While
Anaoci- this was being done one of the porters let a burning
dental fire, ^j-^nd fall iuto the tinderlike grass. It caught fire at
once ; and with express-train speed the conflagration spread,
happily in a direction away from the camp, over the slopes
and the grassy steppe. This occurrence fortunately occasioned
me to seek a camping-place that had already been burnt bare,
and consequently presented no danger of fire. I say " fortun-
ately," for in the evening the wind veered round, and now all at
once the fire, which at noon had rushed forth across the steppe,
came back upon us by a circuitous route, and, indeed, with a
speed which, if we had been among the masses of grass, would
have rendered flight almost impracticable. With difficulty we
succeeded in getting the donkeys and the ammunition into the
centre of the little bare camping-place I had selected. Herr
von Tiedemann, who had set up his tent on the edge of the
A danger- g^'^^^y stcppe — indeed, in the steppe itself — was obliged
ous posi- to rush out, unclothed, in headlong flight, to escape
the danger of being burnt alive in it. As is always
the case where there are high and low grounds in close prox-
imity, perfectly malicious gusts of wind prevailed here on this
day, so that all night long we were in danger of seeing our tents
suddenly blown down.
W"e were glad enough next morning to leave this inhospit-
able place, in the hope that before night we should see Lake
Baringo itself Even with such longing may Moses have gone
forth, when it was declared to him that he should now behold
the promised land.
AROUND LAKE BARINGO. 267
Thomson had drawn seductive pictures of Lake Baringo.
We hoped to find food there in abundance, and to regain the
feeling of security for life and limb. Patiently, therefore, we
accepted the fact that we had to march for hours through the
parched prairie, and then to ascend towards the last circumfer-
ence around Lake Baringo. Towards eleven o'clock this was
reached ; and there, in truth, lay the lake before us ! A green
grassy steppe extended far and wide, shading off, here and there,
into brownish and reddish tints. Opposite, just below lake Ba-
ns, a steep group of rocks rose up, which, according to [tTlur*''*
the maps, could be nothing else but Kamasia. This roundmgs.
was, moreover, corroborated by the Wandorobbo, who were
astonished, as before, that I could tell them of such names.
But to the right the lovely basin of Lake Baringo bends
like the bay of Sorrento, or that of Naples, and towards the
north scattered islands rise above its surface. Thus the
Baringo looks up with its deep blue eye at the gleaming heaven.
One hardly knows if that blue surface that appears below, or the
canopy that stretches its expanse above, is the real sky. Like a
scene from fairy-land the picture lay spread out that we there
viewed below us.
So it is really to be vouchsafed to us that we shall quit,
as living men, the inhospitable steppes of the Massais ? Yes, it
has been vouchsafed to us ! We have only to descend, to grasp
the reality.
For about an hour we revelled in the contemplation of the
picture glorified by every poetic charm. Whether the enthu-
siasm of my corn-lacking porters was not chiefly called forth
by the anticipation of what they should find to fill improved
their cooking-pots withal, I will leave an open question, prospects.
At all events, the feeling of satisfaction was universal, and on
the strength of this general feeling the very troublesome descent
was made more rapidly and easily than would probably have
been the case under other circumstances. We had to clamber
down an almost perpendicular space of about twelve hundred
feet ; certainly not a pleasurable task for the camels, or for
the porters, with their loads that weighed sixty pounds. On
268 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
reachiug the utmost verge of the crater circumference, I halted
to collect the whole column. Unhappily I had lost one of my
camels that morning, so that I had only three left.
But what did that signify, weighed against the fact that we had
now, of a certainty, reached the Baringo territory P Towards
two o'clock we marched away with beat of drum, through the
grassy steppe, towards the west. For the first time after a long
interval, acacias and mimosas again appeared on our horizon.
. ,,. They grew on the borders of the Guaso na Nyuki,
Crossing the . . .^ '
Guaso na towards which we were pressing. At about five o'clock
Nyuki r o
we crossed it, and, as I had foi-merly done in the quiet
days by the Tana, I set up my camp under the. widespreading
shade of the mimosa trees ; and it was with a sensation of
heartfelt joy that I sat down to my evening meal in front of
my tent, at seven o'clock, with the moon shining silently and
peacefully down.
Of the natives we did not, on this evening, get a glimpse.
The two Massai settlements, Njemps Ndogo and Njemps Nkubua
(Little Njemps and Great Njemps), are situated on the Guaso
Tigerish, which rolls towards the Baringo, two or three miles
westward of the Guaso na Nyuki. To-night I again lay down
to rest, with satisfaction like that I had felt on Christmas Eve.
Next morning early we were up and away, with the drum
beating, towards the south-west. Soon we came upon a broad
road, and presently I heard human voices calling to us on my
left. It was almost like a home feeling to hear the old " lambo "
of the coast repeated here in the heart of Africa. At once we
felt that we were once again in peaceful communication with
the outer world. A few hundred paces more, and the thick
Arrival at thomy riugwalls of Njemps rose before us. The elders
Njemps. Q^ ^]^g j.j,j^g came out, and replied to my " lambo "
with a friendly " lambo sana." Hands were duly spat in and
shaken.
Presently a troop of the natives placed themselves at the
head of the column, and led us round Njemps in a circuit
towards the west. We crossed the Guaso Tigerish, and found
ourselves under the shade of the cool mimosa trees, by the
COMMKXCEMEXr OF BETTER TlMEf^.
269
iKjrtlioru wall of the place, on the old campinij-g'rouiid of the
travelliuu- caravaiis, where Mr. Thomson, Dr. Fischer, „
Camping
and Count Teleld had all dwelt in their time. Quickl_v among
the loads were dejjosited and the tents set u]), and
soon we experienced the pleasant feelinii' of reposing- comfort-
ably among a friendly tribe.
The toils and dangers we had endured among the Massais of
the Leikipia plateau began, like the stormclouds when a tem-
pest has spent its rage, to sink gradually away on the horizon
of our memory.
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM THE nAIUNGO TO THE VIC-
TORIA XYAXZA TERRITORY.
" In the realm of dreams and magic
Have we, as it seemeth, entered."
GOBTHE.
IVTJEMPS lies about five miles
A~-\ soutli of Lake Bariuiro. I
am sorry to say I cannot join in
the Thomsonian hymn of praise
concerning this place and its iii-
labitauts. He was euclianted with
the security of the life lie enjoyed
here, and that may have biassed
his spirit. We had won our own
safety, until now, by fighting, and
we had not paid tribute any-
where, so that these two
'"^^ considerations did not weigh
C**;^''^ „ . , heavily in the
Cluestion of ■'
ways and SCale ot GUI'
means. , , ,
well b e 1 n g-
But as regarded the important question of our b(jdily food and
necessities, thanks to the circumstance that we could pay for
V ^»
RELATION WITH THE MASSAIS. 271
food with food, we were able to procure from the Massais grain,
honey, and fish. They were themselves suffering hunger, and
would hardly have declared themselves ready to part with eat-
ables for clothes-stuffs, and still less for ornaments, purchasing
But I paid in goats and sheep, and thus succeeded in ^"ppiies.
purchasing for myself and my people a corresponding supply of
" veri-veri," a kind of small red millet, and also in getting
some honey and a daily supply of fish. Of the corn we pre-
pared a kind of meal, which, boiled in salt water, made a very
tasty addition to our milk.
Among the sheep we brought with us, the Massais here and
there recognised animals that had been stolen from them by
their cousins of Leikipia, with whom they lived in deadly feud.
Of course I could not consent to give these back without an
equivalent ; had I done so, I should soon have got rid of my
whole flock. All things considered, we lived in good friendship
with each other, being united by our common enmity towards a
third nation.
I had very soon recovered from the fatigues of the march
over Leikipia, but, unfortunately, Herr von Tiede- ^^^^ ^^^
mann was not able to regain his health in the four Tiedemann's
1 T 1 -n • illness.
days we spent by Lake Baringo.
The depressed region between the Dongo Gelesha in the east,
and the Kamasia plateau, that falls off steeply at about the
same elevation, in the west, was 3,400 feet above the sea level,
and for the first time, after a long interval, we had now warmer
nights, while the days still remained tolerably cool.
The whole of this depression is filled with a kind of reddish
clay, in which the sun burns great cracks and clefts. The
drawback in this region is the remarkable dryness, which often
destroys the harvest and occasions famine. The^j^gg^i
Massais, who, in contrast to their brethren on the *e™^"'^"-
elevated plateaus, practise agriculture, have indeed arranged a
very ingenious method of irrigation ; but this irrigation depends
upon the state of the Guaso Tigerish, which also almost dries
up at this season of the year.
I visited Lake Baringo on Sunday, January 12th. By the
272 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
way we saw great numbers of game animals of all kinds. But
of the lake itself not much was to be seen, for it
Shores of . . ■ i i i
lake IS surrounded on its southern shore with a broad
anngo. j^g^j.g^jj gf reeds, which must be pressed through before
the expanse of water is descried.
Lovely as this lake appears seen from the heights, there is
little charm of landscape on its shores themselves. The
inhabitants of these regions, called by the WanganncBsi
" Wakuafi," that is to say, dealers, — a name which, by
uafi or the way, is not known among the Massais themseh'es,
— have been much reduced in number and humbled by
wars, and are consequently more modest than their insolent
cousins on the plateaus. They belong to a great tribe which, as
it appears, was entirely defeated and scattered in all directions
by the other Massais, at the beginning of this century, being
partly driven still further north to the lakes discovered by
Count Teleki, partly to Usaguha, partly to Kawirondo, and
close to the shores of Lake Victoria. The people are intelli-
gent, and certainly capable of culture. They are favourable to
strangers, because they expect through them to get protection
from the Massai tribes, who fall upon them again from time to
time. The trading strangers, whether they be Arabs or Euro-
peans, have likewise an interest in permanently maintaining
here this colony of peaceable and friendly Massais.
I expressed myself on this point in a report which I pre-
pared at Baringo, on January 10th, for the German Emin Pasha
committee, and which was not published for a long time : —
" A Baringo nation would be of the very greatest import-
ance for the general opening up of Central Africa, and for the
Be ort to S^'^^^ plateaus, over which our way led. Here, in what
the com. resembles a peaceful oasis, the expeditions which, ap-
mittee. , ■ ^ , , } -, . f
proachmg irom the east, are making their way to the
north and west, can rest and gain strength for the further dif-
ticulties that lie before them. It is also known that Njemps and
the Baringo form one of the great centres of the ivory trade of
Eastern and Central Africa. I consider it equally important in
the interests of' civilisation and of a general European trade to
REPORT FOR THE COMMITTEE. 273
defend, and permanently to secure, the colony of intelligent and
submissive Wakuafi dwelling here from the destruc-
tion with which they are continually threatened at the of inter.
hands of the Massai and Wosuk. In a word, I consider ''^"*'''"-
the establishment of a strong European station by the Baringo
to be called for in the interest of the whole further development
of civilisation in Eastern and Central Africa. Five white men
and twenty-five well-armed Askari, with a piece of ordnance,
would, according to my estimate, be quite sufficient to secure
this charming valley in a military point of view ; and I also
believe that such an establishment would very soon pay for
itself as a commercial factory. Which nation it is that esta-
blishes such a station here is of no consequence, from the point
of view of civilisation. I should unquestionably do it myself,
if I did not require all my powers for the further prosecution
of the task before me ; for the greater part of my resources
have been taken from me, by brute force, in Zanzibar and on
the coast. Meanwhile, in order at least to effect something, I
have concluded a treaty with the Wakuafi, which assures to
them the friendship of the Germans, and places their land at
my disposal with regard to further steps to be taken in the
matter. At the same time I hoisted the German „
German
flag at Niemps on January 9th. I think I am war- flag hoisted
-, . . , 1 , ^^1. atNjemps.
ranted m assuming that, at the present moment, the
black, white, and red flag is the one most dreaded by the
Massais ; and until the matter is decided in Europe, I hold it to
be the most practical thing that this flag should wave here.
Accordingly, I proclaim Njemps to be a European and especially
a German possession. I consider myself entitled to do this,
because the Baringo, with Njemps northward of the Equator, is,
according to an objective explanation, manifestly not included
in the London agreement.
" From hence, as I assume, a lasting communication with
Oda-Boru-Ruva could be best established and main- communica-
tained to the north of the Kenia ; and if Emin Pasha oda-BMu-
is still in Wadelai, and is willing to co-operate in this ^™'*-
plan, a European chain of stations might be established,
18
274 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
extending into the heart of Africa, which would have its support
in the navigableness of the Tana, and might become exceedingly
important, alike as regards commerce and civilisation, for
Eastern and Central Africa."
As the conclusion of this chain of reasoning I had already,
on January 8th, concluded the following treaty with the
elders :
" Njemps, on the Baringo,
''January 8th, 1890.
" The elders of the Wakuati at Njemps and on the Baringo
come and solicit the friendship of Dr. Carl Peters.
" They have heard that he has beaten the Massais, who are
their enemies.
" They declare that they acknowledge Dr. Peters as their
lord, and beg him to make application to His
with the Majesty the German Emperor for the incorporatioD
Wakuafi . .
of the Baringo country in the German protected
territory.
" Dr. Peters, after a negotiation of several hours with
an assembly of the Wakuati, declares himself ready to
grant them his friendship, and to protect them against the
Massais so long as he tarries on the Baringo. He declares
himself ready to hoist the German flag, thereby to show
to the Massais, in the time to come, that he looks upon
the Baringo territory as his, and that it stands under his
protection.
"The regulating of the further relations of Njemps and the
Baringo territory Dr. Peters reserves to himself.
" The cession of Njemps and the Baringo territory to Dr. Carl
Peters, and the acceptance of it on the part of Dr. Peters for
himself and his friends, is solemnly ratified by the signatures
of both the contracting parties, and with the forms usual among
Ratification *^^ Wakuafi ; as also the taking possession, by hoist-
trel^^ ing the German flag within the enclosure, of Njemps
Mkubua ; and Dr. Peters declares himself still prepared,
in case it should yet be possible, to enter into negotiations with
AN ENGLISH EXPEDITION EXPECTED. 275
Emin Pasha, with a view to transfer his territory of power to
these regions. " Gael Peters.
" Elders of the Wakuafi of Njemps and Baringo:
Signatory mark of Laonama.
Signatory mark op Sombeja.
Signatory mark of Baezalat.
Hussein Fara,
Witnesses I MusA Dar-es-Salaam
Signatory mark of Longoletea.
Signatory mark of Lendeka.
Signatory mark of Nendalom.
BwANA Mku,
RUKUA,
I
I " Von Tiedemann.
" This testifies that the foregoing act has been accomplished
in the form of a treaty, on the present day, between Herr Dr.
Peters and the ^Yakuafi of Njemps and the Baringo.
" Njemps, January 8th, 1890."
On January 9th the German tiag was accordingly hoisted
within the enclosure of Njemps, and it was visible far over the
region around.
I had really expected to find an English expedition here,
inasmuch as Mr. de Winton, so early as in the winter of 1888,
had dissuaded us Germans from sending me out, on the
ground that I should meet an English expedition that winton's
would then be already returning from Emin Pasha. *^^^
On this point also I expressed my opinion in the above-quoted
report, and I will reproduce my expressions here, literally, as
they clearly indicate what was my disposition in those days.
"I had expected a white man here, perhaps Mr. Martin,
but there was no Mr. Martin anywhere to be seen. I had
supposed that here at last the prophecies of Mr. de Winton
would be fulfilled, and that the returning English expedition
of rescue would appear on the scene. I had, indeed, repeatedl}'
come upon traces of English expeditions engaged in effecting
a retreat. Already at Aden, when I was still on my way to
Zanzibar, I had encountered Mr. Swaine, who had been men-
tioned as the leader of the English East African Expedition.
In Mombas, in April, I saw Mr. Last, who was coming back
from Ukamba ' to fit himself out afresh.' When I was in
Witu, at the beginning of July, I heard that somebody belonging
to Mr. Jackson's expedition 'had come back in haste from
276 yfj]]r LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the interior, and was fitting himself out anew in Malindi.'
Afterwards I had been privileged with my own eyes to behold
the retm-n of Messrs. Pigott and Smith on the Middle Tana.
" There was, in truth, a sufficiency of returning English East
African expeditions ; but while Mr. de Winton and his friends
counselled that I should on no account be invested with the com-
Previoua mand of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, they had
E^g/*^''* nevertheless said that one Emin Pasha Expedition was
ditions. already encamped by the Baringo, and that I should
meet it here, if, on my side, I marched to Emin Pasha. Here,
on the Baringo, no one has seen anything of that expedition.
" Even if I were to assume that the English leaders of it
had moved onward — invisible, by some kind of spiritualist
manipulation — ^I am too well acquainted with the masticatory
Question of processes of Zanzibar porters to be able to believe, that
their route, f^^^ hundred of them could be pushed past the Baringo,
without leaving tangible traces. I am accordingly inclined to
think that no English Emin Pasha Expedition has ever been
here. But then, how came Mr. de Winton and his friends to
tell this to the world .P And what reason has the world to
attach more credit to other tales these gentlemen may put forth
than to this one ? "
It was afterwards told me, in Kawirondo, by Ali Somal, who
was with the Jackson expedition, that Mr. Pigott had originally
been intended for the Baringo. Whether this is true or not, I
am unable to say. At any rate, we had at this point again got
the better of English competition, and, very naturally, we were
not exactly sorry in consequence.
For our further advance towards the west, I had the burdens
solidly packed together, so that, as a rule, from that time for-
Adjusting ward, only the porters were told off for the carrying of
the burdens, tj^gj^^ and the beasts of burden, especially the three
camels, were only to be used in case of necessity. " Sir, let
them go like gentlemen ! " said Hussein Fara.
Besides this, I attended to the provisioning of the column,
as I knew very well that the uninhabited Angata na Nyuki
was now to be passed by us. As I have already noticed, the
DUTY OF VICTUALLING AN EXPEDITION. 277
question of commissariat in African expeditions really consti-
tutes the chief task of the leader, who must do justice to it, if
he would show himself at all equal to his position. And
here I may quite candidly declare, that the manage- Jg'the"''"
ment of an expedition makes no figure, in my eyes, ''°'°""'-
unless it is quite perfect from this most important point of
view. Stanley has much to tell of the sufferings his expe-
dition had to endure from hunger on their march up the
Aruwimi. In reading that narrative I could not avoid think-
ing, " Yes, but does Stanley not feel at all that in these pictures
he exposes an inexcusable fault of his own ? " In the description
there is not a syllable to indicate this. Now, I will grant that
one cannot always be held responsible for a misfortune
J? J.T- • 1 • n 1 1 1 • 1 T f 1 • . Importance
01 this kmd, although m general I feel convinced it is of the com-
exactly in this particular that the commander of an ™^^°*"**-
expedition should make enquiries concerning his route, before
he leads hundreds of men into such regions ; or, if such a
prosecution of enquiries is not possible, he should guard against
the starving of his people by driving herds with him, or by
previously establishing victualling stations proportionate to his
needs. But that Stanley, even in his third journey through the
forest, when he was thoroughly acquainted with all the circum-
stances, has again to tell of a "starvation camp," does not, I
confess, maintain at its height the admiration I was formerly
inclined to bestow on him, especially as a leader of an expe-
dition. For my part, I should consider very seriously, before
entrusting a great expedition to a man, who looks upon such a
neglect of the principal duty of an expeditionary chief, as quite
in the proper order of things, and even seems to be of opinion
that he will awaken the sympathies of Europe, by giving a
picture of the sufferings that resulted from such carelessness.
On the Baringo I gave each of my people a twelve days'
ration of fiour, and as I had still about four hundred state of our
head of cattle at my disposal, I considered, on Janu- supplies-
ary 13th, that I might, with a good conscience, begin the advance
westward towards Kawirondo.
That day we encamped about seven miles westward of
278 .V£ll' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Njemps, at a lovely bend of the Guaso Tigerish, where, in his
time, Count Teleki had pitched his camp for weeks.
Next morning we had to climb the wall of the Kamasia
Plateau, which inclines steeply down into the plain.
Clim'bingto -, ■, n ■ i
the Kamasia We began our march before sunrise, and now we went
Plateau. (.j^jj^bi^g upward continually, while the sun shone down
more and more hotly upon us.
The Kamasia Plateau is, in every respect, the opposite to
the Dongo Gelesha and the Leikipia Plateau. Like the latter,
it forms a series of levels, or terraces. It was as though we
had to climb up a succession of crater walls, lying in annular
form one within another.
I had induced my friend Laonania to show us the way as
far as the first watering-place in Kamasia. We marched until
past noon, as water was nowhere to be found. At
camping- length we halted at a spring that trickled very
ground. gparingly in the dried-up bed of the Guaso Kamnje,
where we were obliged to pitch the camp, in a very crowded
manner, by the slope of a mountain ; before us was the steep
slope of the last portion of the eastern acclivity of Kamasia.
The people of this land are Massais, like the rest, and have
much of the insolence of the inhabitants of Leikipia. Though
they knew that we had beaten these latter, they came noisily
crowding about us, and behaved turbulently enough, so that I
turned them out of the camp. However, they brought capital
honey to sell to us, and their boldness did not go so far as to
bring on a fight.
On January 15th our way led, in zigzag windings, to the
crest of the Kamasia, a complete climbing expedition, which,
to my surprise, was accomplished even by the camels, who
certainly marched along Avithout burdens as " gentlemen," only
having to carry Somali Achmed, who had fallen ill of pleurisy.
While the eastern slope of Kamasia is very dry, a
part of series of brooks are to be found on the western side,
and consequently fresh plantations also.
At Njemps, at the request of my porter Pemba I had left his
sick wife behind, in the care of the Massais there ; and the day
MISBEHAVIOUR OF THE WAKAMASIA. 279
before, my porter Chamsin, who carried some iron utensils and
limped, had not arrived in camp. On the morning of January
15th, Pemba Motu was suddenly seized with a longing for his
wife's company, and just before the expedition started on the
march he absconded, leaving his load behind him.
This day I again set up my camp on a very confined space
at the corner of a mountain slope, just above a little spring.
Until then, the people of Kamasia had abstained from hostile
demonstrations against us. At midday, the report was made
that they had attempted to steal sheep from our flock, but had
been quickly put to flight by the Somalis firing at them. To-
wards three o'clock, Pemba Motu suddenly made his „ ^ „ ,
' •' FemDa Motu
appearance in headlong flight, completely naked, and and the
without his weapons. He reported that the Wakamasia
had felled Chamsin to the ground, and taken away his load ;
that they had also attempted to capture him, Pemba Motu,
and that it was only by leaving all his things behind him that
he had managed to escape, and to rejoin the expedition.
Though there was here a manifest casus belli, I could not
make up my mind once more to make the difficult march back,
across the crest of the Kamasia, but contented myself Question of
with issuing an order to my people to meet every "P"sais-
hostile act perpetrated by the 'SYakamasia, from this time
forward, with reprisals.
So we travelled onward on the morning of January 16th,
continually traversing hilly and, in some parts, steep ground,
towards the west. The Wakamasia repeatedly endeavoured to
break into our herd of cattle, but were driven back by the
Somalis, several of them being struck down.
It was nearly twelve o'clock when we reached the western
declivity of the Kamasia Plateau ; and, to our no small conster-
nation, we perceived before us, separated from us by a broad
valley, another steep, rocky wall, apparently extending down
perpendicularly into the deeper ground, which seemed to stretch
out in limitless length northward and southward. I The land
was told that this was the land Elgejo, where the °*^^eeJo.
people were very bad ; much worse than in Kamasia, the
280 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Wakamasia declared. I was now in the south-west district
above Kapte, the region which surrounds the western declivity
of Kamasia.
After slaughtering a " goat of peace " with the people on
the higher ground, I began the descent, which was more
readily accomplished than we could have anticipated from the
higher position. Suddenly I saw that a green barrier
Demonstra- i i . .
tions of the had been placed across the way, and behind it fifty or
na ives. ^^^^^ natives were lying in wait, lances in hand, and
with bows and arrows ready to shoot. The people were simple
enough to demand tribute from me, but immediately gave up
this friendly intention when I pointed my gun at them, and
threatened them with war. They had been spoilt by Thomson,
who, with regard to this system of tribute, tells us in his work
" Through Massailand," that he and his men had several times
to halt, until they received permission to go on. The way was
closed by putting green twigs over the footpath, and their
stepping across that sacred symbol, before permission had
been given, was enough to throw the people into paroxysms of
uncontrollable excitement.
When the Wakamasia afterwards tried to take forcible
possession of the tribute they demanded, by seizing some of my
cattle (remembering also the assassination of Chamsin of which
they had been guilty), three of them were shot down in the act
of robbery, and by this means peace was restored in the land.
They now came to explain to us that they were willing to be our
friends, without receiving tribute.
This day I encamped somewhat to the south of Kapte, on
the western slope of the mountain range. The Kamasia people,
who now were quite amiable in their behaviour, brought us
The eatables of every description for sale, and we looked
waka/ forward to a quiet afternoon, when our attention was
masia. suddenly attracted to a rattling of musketry at some
distance below the terrace on which our camp had been pitched.
What could it be ? Surely, a coast caravan, if not Euro-
peans. An English expedition .P Perhaps Stanley, or even
Emin Pasha himself .P
ARRIVAL OF V'ELC'0:]fE V/STTORS.
281
The Wakamasia who stood around soon relieved me from
my state of doubt, b}' informing me that this was a caravan of
Juma Kimameta, well known to me from Thomson's and also
from Teleki's descriptions of travel.
Presently the foremost of the new-comers appeared on the
"/ S,/f//, ^/3^>^^,-
Tpie Wakamasia Demand Teibute,
slope of the hill. In quick succession they fired their guns in
the air, and 1 replied by a shot from my tent. 1 sent my
leader of the porters, Musa, and my servant Buana Arrival of
Mku, to mei't the new arrivals, and welcome them.
Soon afterwards six picturesquely-attired Arabs, the lenders ol
the approaching expedition, made their appearance m my tent.
iJ82 XEW LKrl-lT ON DARK AFRICA.
I felt as the mariner may feel, who, sailing on an entirely
desert ocean, perhaps in the Polar Sea, suddenly sights another
ship. The Arabs appeared to us almost like fellow-country-
men, for they spoke Kiswahili, with which we were well
acquainted, and they came from Pangani, which I knew so well
from former years. Here in the Massai tribes the opposition
of interests to those of the Arab race disappears. We have all
a common interest, namely, to assert ourselves against the wild
natives, who, on their part, make hardly any difference between
Europeans and Arabs.
The new-comers told me that they had come down from
Turkang, and had tarried for some time in Engabot.
I asked them, natural^, if they had any news of Emin Pasha.
" Emin Pasha — who is he .P "
conversa " ^ '^hite man, who lives on the other side of Tur-
tion with kaug, by the Nile. Have the people of Turkang never
spoken to you of such a man ? "
" No, never."
"Have they not told you that on the western boundary of
their territory the ' Turki ' are seated ? "
" No, nor that either."
" What news do you bring us down from the north ? "
" Turkang is a dry land. The inhabitants are peaceable,
but last year the Massais came up, and they have driven away
the camels of the natives."
" You were also in Engabot — had you food there ? "
" The people of Engabot were formerly good, but now they
have become bad."
" Have you any kind of news from Kawirondo ? "
" They say that there is a white man in Kawirondo, in
Kabaras, who came round the lake. So the people in Elmut-
tiey told us yesterday."
" A white man ? what kind of white man P Does he come
from the coast, or from the interior P "
"He does not come from the coast. He is said to have
many women and soldiers with him. But who are you, and
where do you come from ? "
CONVERSATION WITH THE ARABS. 283
"I am a German, and my name is Kupanda Sharo— in
Europe, Dr. Peters. We have traA-elled up the Tana,
through the Gallas, and across the Leikipia Plateau ao'ooi^roV
through the Massais. We have beaten the Massais, '''"'""■
and burnt Elbejet. You see yonder the remains of the herds
which we have driven away from them."
" Beaten the Massais ? That is very fine ! (Ngema sana !)
The white men beat everyone now. Buana Mkubua (Count
Teleki) beat the Wasuk in the north last year."
" We are obliged to fight everywhere, as we will pay no
tribute, and the people attack us. Here in Kamasia, too, we
had a skirmish this very day."
" Very good. But where do you want to go ? "
"I. will go to the white men on the Nile, and in the first
place to Uganda. Have you news from Uganda ? "
"Not from Uganda, but you will get every information in
Kawirondo. There the people are very good. You may go out
walking there without a gun — with a stick. There is Report on
much to eat there, too, and you will get all the infor- kawirondo.
mation you can possibly want. Wangwana are living there,
too, from whom you may buy stuffs."
This was an interesting communication, but our imagina-
tion was particularly excited by the news about the white men.
The information brought by the Arabs sounded mysterious,
and we conjectured that it must have a connection of some
kind with the aim of our expedition. I made the Arabs a
present of some oxen, and asked them if they would ,
^ ' •' Arrange-
carry a writing with them for me to the coast. They ment for
said they would ; and, amid a general salutation from
my people, they went back to their column, promising to return
in the evening.
Great was the rejoicing among my people at the news we
had heard. The generally expressed opinion declared that if
a white man, with great herds of cattle, was in Kawirondo, he
must be a German, for other people did not drive herds of
cattle — so thought my porters and soldiers.
After breakfast I wrote a short report to the German Emin
284 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
Pasha committee on the progress of the expedition up to that
time. This report arrived safely in Zanzibar at the beginning
of April, and was the first actual evidence that our expedition
had not been destroyed. This agreeable work occupied me
until six o'clock in the evening.
After dinner the Arabs, among whom especially the very
intelligent Buana Mku, from Pangani, led the conversation,
came to us once again. I treated them to cocoa and sugar,
and while the rain Mas falling without, we chatted
Another P
visit from away several agreeable hours m my tent, the Arabs
questioning me closely, to get information concerning
Leikipia, which they seemed inclined to prefer to the Naiwasha
route. Our conversation was carried on in the dark.
I have forgotten to mention until now, that from Massa
onward we had been entirely without lights. There can hardly
be a notion, in Europe, of the quantity of privation involved in
this slight circumstance. It makes one entirely dependent on
the sun and moon ; and when the moonlight failed us,
manufac- we Were compelled to sup before six o'clock, and to go
to bed directly afterwards. It was not till we came
to Uganda that the idea occurred to me of manufacturing the
means of illumination, from our store of fat and twisted
cotton stuff.
I may mention, in this place, that the English in Lamu had
taken from me six hundred cigars, so that for this narcotic
enjoyment we had to depend entirely on our pipes and native
tobacco. On the Baringo the last bottle of cognac was also
expended ; and now we were restricted, for beverages, to coffee,
tea, and cocoa, which, I may observe by the way, we found
eminently conducive to our health.
At parting I presented Buana Mku with a keg of powder
and a new robe, and, bearing our despatch, the Arabs withdrew
Partin ^°^' ^^® night. Ncxt moming there was another leave-
with Buana taking, and with mutual pious wishes we parted from
each other — we to proceed to Uganda, they to make
their way back through the Massais of the Kilima Ndsharo.
This meeting with the Arab expedition was like the first
ELMUTTIEY ; ELGEJO AND ITS PEOPLE. 285
faint dawning of day for us, with respect to our expedition's
aim. In the white man, who was said to dwell in Kawirondo,
we had a subject that occupied our thoughts during the march,
and often enlivened our conversation afterwards. Each of us
was now greatly thrown back upon himself, as Herr von Tiede-
mann's illness continued, and he generally went to bed so soon
as the day's march was over.
From Kapte we journeyed to Elmuttiey in a march of eight
hours. Elmuttiey lies in the great depression which extends
between Kamasia and Elgejo in a north-west direction, and is
traversed by the Weiwei river.
On this day died the Somali Achmed, who was buried in
the evening, by the light of flaming fires, by his fellow tribes-
men. A very fantastic spectacle was that of his burial. They
uttered their Mohamedan prayers in a kind of wild convulsion.
Each man solemnly laid it on the dead man's con- jj^^jj^^f
science, to mention his name in the presence of Allah, the somaii
Strangers who witnessed this singular scene must have
taken it for a grisly incantation, with magic formulas and
exorcism of evil spirits.
In these depressions, between two towering walls of rock, a
very singular appearance is presented at night by the fires
maintained in the villages built on the hills. This spectacle
had already attracted us at Lake Baringo, and here it appeared
still more peculiar.
I had heard that there was plenty of food at Elgejo ; but the
people here kept aloof from us in a singular manner. Inclined
from the beginning to insolence, just like the Wakamasia, they
still did not feel quite safe in approaching us, having heard of
the fate of their tribal relatives of Kamasia, and especially of
what had befallen the Massais. They are clothed like ne people
the Wakamasia, whom they also resemble in appear- "f^is^J"-
ance, wearing a short cloak hung over the shoulders, that leaves
the body itself completely nude. They carry a slender spear,
about seven feet long, besides a bow and arrows. The language
here, as in all the lands of this region, is that of the Massais.
On the recommendation of Buana Mku, I had, immediately
286 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
on my arrival here, enquired for a guide, Kirobani, who, it was
Kirobani, Said, knew the way to Kawirondo, and, for an adequate
the guide, j-g^ju-jj j^ Cattle, would perhaps be inclined to show us
the road. Kirobani declared himself willing, after we had
settled to pay him five sheep and a reasonable quantity of stuff,
for his services.
As the supply of provisions the column possessed did not
seem sufficient for the march across the steppe that lay before
us, I determined to remain here for the following day, to increase
our stock. In the morning I at once sent my people into the
villages, on the slope of the mountains, to purchase, but they
came back in the afternoon with their commission unfulfilled.
The natives would not sell anything ; and all my own efforts in
this direction, continued until the evening, were of no avail.
To my chagrin there also arrived at my camp, on this day,
a deserter from the Arab ranks, whom unfortunately I could not
Arrival of a ^snd back, as the distance between the two expeditions
deserter, ^^g already too great, and whom I was, therefore, com-
pelled to receive into my column. The man's name was Buana
Maramba, and he was a native of Mombassa.
When I resumed the march with my column on January 18th,
Kirobani, in spite of his emphatic promise, had not made his
appearance. I therefore sent out men to seek him, and in the
meantime set forward with my column towards the wall of rock
which we had to climb.
Kirobani, who had already received part of his payment, was
discovered by my people, hiding in a mtama field. I went up
to him and said, " Forward now, old boy ! Show us the way to
Misconduct Kawiroudo." A short dogged " A-a-a ! " was the reply
of Kirobani. ^.Q ^j eucouraging address. I said, "Forward!"
Again the snarling, " A-a-a ! " Thereupon I took him by the
shoulder, and gave him a slight shake. Then he snarled, just
like a cat setting up its back against a dog. My patience was
exhausted. A well-aimed blow in the face, and a cord fastened
round his neck by the Somalis, made it manifest to Kirobani
that I was not inclined to have my contracts broken in that un-
ceremonious way. He immediately assumed a very polite and
OUR TRUSTWORTHY GUIDE KIROBANI. 287
modest demeanour, and strode onward, up the mountain, in the
most cheerful manner, followed b}' my column. This morning
I was compelled to have the last but one of my camels killed, as
it was entirely unable to march up the rocky path.
A little before twelve o'clock, I encamped on a promontory,
half way up the ascent, where a little brook went rippling by.
I caused Kirobani, who was now our very good friend, to be
chained up ; and in this situation he received the visits of his
family. I had him well fed, and he said I might quite safely
set him at liberty, for he was glad to go with us to Kawirondo.
But I was not sufficiently convinced of this gladness of heart in
him, and consequently persevered in the measures I had taken.
To strengthen our last remaining camel, the Somalia cooked
a whole sheep for it. To our great astonishment the The cami-
beast ate up the flesh, quite ravenously, to the last camei!
morsel.
On this day also, all our efforts to procure food for the
caravan failed. The natives would not sell anything, while on
the other hand their behaviour was not such as to justify a
declaration of war.
In the evening a violent shower of rain poured down upon
us, which we welcomed gladly, because it strengthened the hope
that we should succeed in finding water on the Angata na Nyuki
(red plain). But the night was dark as pitch, so that one could
not see one's hand before one's eyes, and the outposts had
taken refuge from the sheets of rain under the tent-roof of the
Somalis. Here was an opportunity for Kirobani, of which Escape of
he did not fail to take advantage. Next morning he kirobani.
had vanished, with the chain round his foot. He had only been
able to take the shortest of steps, like Gretchen on the Blocks-
berg, when Faust beheld her in the distance ; but, for all that,
he was nowhere to be found. Accordingly, I had to face the
disagreeable necessity of marching forward upon Kawirondo
without a guide, after all.
All night through, there had been a wild yowling and roaring
noise in the villages above us. The inhabitants had been hold-
ing high revel throughout the dark hours, and looked dissipated
288 yEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
enough when we continued our march up the rocky incline next
morning.
The ascent became steeper and steeper. After passing the
villages, we presently came to a strip of forest. Here we suc-
ceeded in striking a bargain with three men from Elgejo,
Eigejo who agreed, in consideration of a stipulated number of
^"^ *'■ arm-lengths of stuff, to lead us up to the plateau, and
then to return. When the belt of forest had been passed, we
came to another shoulder of the mountain, where I halted, to
wait for my herd and the donkeys. Here it was reported to me
that two donkeys had fallen down, and could go no further, and
that a part of the herd had also dropped behind.
From all sides Waelgejo came running up in many
hundreds, even in thousands, and their demeanour towards us
was manifestly more equivocal than on the two preceding days.
At length the herd emerged from the wooded thicket, and. now
we went on, upward along the dizzy path on the margin of
the rock.
At its highest point the Elgejo Plateau is crowned by a lava
cap, which descends perpendicularly, and would be quite inacces-
sible, but that it is traversed by a cleft, in which one
J. 116 ^r6Sil
Elgejo can climb upward, as on a staircase. But to do this,
it is of course necessary to know where this cleft is
situated.
Where the lava cap surmounts the rock is another shoulder,
on which there is room for the encampment of a caravan. This
point was occupied by a crowd of Waelgejo, and when I
appeared upon it, with the advanced guard, my three guides
suddenly stepped aside, and refused to show me the entrance to
the rocky staircase. All my persuasions were answered with a
stubborn, " A-a-a ! " and when I at last laid my hand upon
Quarrel °^^ °^ *^® ^'^^> *° compel him to do his duty, for
withtiie which he had been paid in advance, a wild war-cry
suddenly arose among the Waelgejo. They brandished
their spears, advanced upon me in a demonstrative manner, and
from rock to rock the war-howl echoed across the land.
All at once musket shots rattled from below. The
FIGHT WITH THE WAELGEJO. 289
Waelgejo had thrown themselves across the path of the
Somalis and my herd to steal the cattle. This was enough !
As the Waelgejo now also began to shoot at us from above
with arrows, we fired among them, whereby three of
them were killed; whereupon the rest quickly dis- '"'™''**
appeared behind boulders of rock to the right. "We succeeded
in getting hold of at least one of the guides, whom we secured
with cords, to compel him in this manner to show us the last
ascent.
From behind their rocky screens, the Waelgejo continued
their war-howl and their shooting with arrows, which, however,
was entirely without result. I contented myself with firing off
my double-barrelled rifle, for which I had still five hundred
■cartridges, in their direction every now and then, to The easy
keep the horde at a distance. The Somalis below had ''"'""^y-
also very soon put their opponents to the rout ; and, after wait-
ing an hour, I had the satisfaction of seeing not only my
herd, but also the remaining camel and the donkeys make their
appearance at our halting-place.
We now went onwards towards the last rocky ascent. The
guide had to show us the approach, willingly or unwillingly, and
we began to climb upward step by step. Unfortunately, how-
«ver, in spite of my warning, he suddenly sprang aside from the
rocky path right into the depth, clinging to the bushes, in an
attempt at flight. One of my people shot down at him, .
and so, to my regret, this Elgejo man fell also ; for rigibie
which I was the more sorry, as we knew the way now, ^"^ '"
and the skirmish with his fellow-tribesmen might be considered
as ended.
At length we had gained the summit, and before us, on the
heights of Elgejo, at an elevation of 2700 feet, lay a thick forest
of juniper trees, into which a path led. Here I halted, to wait
for the whole column. Gradually the porters came panting
along, and I had to send them back immediately to ^^^^^ ^^
bring up the burdens of the animals. It was reported the last
I 1 • 1 camel.
to me that the camel had unfortunately stuck m the
narrow path, and could neither be moved forward nor back. I
19
290 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
was obliged to give the order to have its throat cut, to prevent
it from falling into the hands of the ^\'aelgejo, and to make
room for the column. After two hours of strenuous labour all
of us were at the top.
Under us, at a dizzy depth, lay the settlements of the
Waelgejo, from whom we were now delivered ; before us the
wood, which must lead us to the Angata na Nyuki. Forward,
therefore, on the path, at whose entrance we were encamped,
and which, in the meantime, I had already had inspected by
A difficult Rukua and a Somali. The road was rendered much
path. more difficult by a kind of sharp stinging nettle, which
hung across it on both sides. But half an hour brought us to
the opposite end, and now there lay before us the Angata na
Nyuki, which separates Elgejo from Kawirondo. The afternoon
was grey and cold, as in the Highlands of Scotland. Now and
then a slight shower of rain descended upon us, and a cold
autumnal wind whistled from the north across the steppe that
lay spread before us.
This day I encamped a couple of miles further on, at the
edge of a thick wood. We found no water to-day, but I
descried a black swampy ground, out of which my people
pressed a liquid, that though sufficiently sandy, yet made it
possible for us at least to boil soup and meat in the evening,
and to drink a cup of tea.
Next morning we proceeded in a due westerly direction up
to the completely bare Angata na Nyuki (red plain). To the
right, just in the north, we sighted the Ischibscharagnani, and
March to ^^^^ *° *^® right, in the north-west, the Elgon, the two
the Angata corresponding mountains to the Kenia and Subugu la
Poron on the other side of the Baringo Falls. This
Angata na Nyuki, in its whole character and structure, exactly
corresponds to the Leikipia Plateau, which it even somewhat
exceeds in elevation. The equivalent to Kikuyu, which
stretches beyond the Leikipia in the south, is furnished on this
side by the land of Wandi in the south. The whole enormous
ridge gradually declines towards the west, towards the Victoria
Nyanza, to about 4,000 feet, and to any one who traverses it
DESERT REGION OF ANGATA NA NYUKl. 291
with an observant eye the unity of its geological character
becomes indisputably apparent. The action of the expansive
central forces, which have thrown it upward in immeasurably
distant times, must be acknowledged in the Baringo territory.
But whereas the Leikipia Plateau had been peopled by
human beings, here in the Angata na Nyuki we came into an
entirely uninhabited region. Not so very long ago there lived
here tribes related to the Wakamasia and Waelgejo. These
have been exterminated, to the last man, by the a deserted
southern Massai tribes, and at this day the empty """''t'^y'
steppe is traversed only by the flying feet of great herds of
antelopes and zebras, and by the rhinoceros and buffalo. Each
rising and each declivity appears in clear outlines through the
transparent air. Before us, on the horizon, rise the Surrongai
Hills, which we shall have to traverse to reach Kawirondo.
A dreamy feeling steals over the heart in this magnificent
solitude ; a solitude only broken once in a couple of years by
a caravan wending towards the west. Yonder is the ^^^^^ g^jj_
Elgon, apparently so tangibl)^ near that it seems as tude of
if we might get to it in a few hours. Does it not seem
to look scornfully and contemptuously down upon us puny
mortals, and to ask what we are seeking here, where Eternity
itself has set up its habitation, and gazes down upon us ?
In Elgon, according to Thomson, there are to be found
singular cave structures, which led him to conjecture that ages
ago a civilised people had laboured here. What a historical
past has once run its course on this marvellous scene ! Are
they the voices of old hero-races that speak to us in the
strange accents of the north wind sweeping across the plain ?
We have now emerged from the dry zone. The clouds are
fantastically piled up on the horizon, and press forward with the
storm over the Angata na Nyuki. Daily the dark heaven pours
down its waters in heavy showers of rain upon the violent
thirsty earth, which is already becoming overspread thundei-
with a new freshly green surface of grass. Like the »t'"^°'=-
rolling of drums, the heavy raindrops fall pelting down upon the
tents, and the organ pipe of the wind sounds among the reeds
292 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
on the river's brink. In Nature more violent combats are ex-
hibited. The firmament rolls its stormy clouds together, to call
forth the dark forces in the womb of the earth. Threateningly
the cloud army is marshalled onward, and flash upon flash of
lightning darts across the dark plain, now blinding white, now
glittering blue, and, like the discharge of cannon, roll peal upon
peal the short, echoless thunder-claps ; and we have now, every
evening, the opportunity of observing the spectacle of the sheet
lightning flashing before us in the south-west, from the region
of the Victoria Nyanza.
The temperature is cool and agreeable. The nights are not
so cold as on the Leikipia Plateau, and, on the other hand, the
■days are less hot. We have almost the temperature of northern
Europe during the latter half of September. The water question
has also assumed a satisfactory appearance.
Already on the first day we came to a southern tributary
of the Nsoia, and the farther we marched towards the west the
Success and Hiore quickly did brook succeed to brook, so that we had
good spirits. Qf^gjj to cross about a dozen of them on one morning.
The cares of the weeks we have left behind us are flown, and
the soul can look into itself with tranquillity.
Yonder before us, in the north-west, to the left of Elgon,
opens the gate which might lead us to the lands of Emin Pasha.
How if we were to press forward directly towards it ? The temp-
tation is sufficiently strong, but we are still entirely without
intelligence of what may have happened, in the interval, in the
Equatorial Province ; and, on the other hand, Kawirondo beckons
us, and the mysterious form of the white man, of whom we
have been told in Kamasia. Forward, therefore, in a direct
line, towards the Surrongai Mountains !
I was startled out of such lucubrations as these, on the
Angata na Nyuki, by a dream that had about it almost the
character of clairvoyance. As a general thing, I dream little
or not at all ; but already, on the Upper Tana, I had had three
times one and the same dream, which was bound to influence
my frame of mind, if not my decision. Three times, on the
Upper Tana, when the continuous barrier of the river began to
A REMARKABLE DREAM. 293
tire us all out, I had dreamt that I had given up the expedition
at this stage, that I had marched back to Mombas, and was
now in Germany. On each of the three occasions, the a curious
first joy at meeting my friends again in my native ^"^ea"!-
country had been succeeded by an exceedingly painful feeling,
because the expedition had been interrupted here in the midst ;
and immediately a lively wish had arisen, to take it up again
where it had been abandoned. Each time I had awoke with the
anxious feeling, — How shall I again get through the blockade
into the interior, and to the place from which I returned home P
On the Angata na Nyuki I lay sleeping one night, and dreamt
I was in the place where, in fact, I had encamped that day, but
that the appearance of Africa had changed. I was not in my
tent, but in a stone house, which had been built by Germans,
and where, besides the Government architect, Hoernecke, there
dwelt some other engineers and several ladies. I entered the
house, mentioned my name, and told how we had come here
after heavy combats against the Massais, and that I proposed to
march to Emin Pasha. I was received very amiably by all, but
to my last observation they replied unanimously, "To Emin
Pasha ! But he is in Berlin. How is it you are seek- -^^^ ^
ing for Emin Pasha here in Central Africa ? " — I said, conversa-
"Emin Pasha is in Berlin? But what are you doing
here?" — "Do you not know that either? We are here to
build a railway to Uganda." — " And what is Emin Pasha doing
in Berlin ? "— " He has left the Equatorial Province long ago."
— " I do not believe that. At any rate, I must ascertain that
at the place itself."
During this last part of our conversation we continually
heard a discontented growling, as of something supernatural.
It was as though a ghostly thing were rushing onward, nearer
and nearer.
In the perturbation it occasioned I awoke, and found mysslf
in the midst of one of the tropical rain-showers of which I have
spoken.
Thus ended this dream, which made a certain lasting im-
pression on my fancy. This is not the place to touch upon the
294 XE]V LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
secret of dream- life ; but perhaps it may occur now and then
that the enigmatical power which surrounds and enfolds life
can, in certain situations, exert an influence in this manner on
the resolutions of individuals.
As a landmark for my march, I had, from the very first day,
chosen a lofty eminence in the Surrongai Hills, which, in con-
trast to the other heights, looked quite white, and manifestly
A useful formed the eastern projection of these mountains. The
landmark, ^yhitc colour arose, as I afterwards ascertained, from the
fact that the grass on the other hills had been burnt up, and
only remained on this one.
On January 22nd we crossed the Guaso Marim, and on
the following day we entered the Surrongai Hills themselves.
The Angata na Nyuki becomes more and more luxuriant the
further we advance to the west. Towards the west, also, are
glorious stretches of wood, and by the courses of the springs
we again, after a long time, came upon the fan palm. The
number of game animals increases more and more. Herds of
Enorm us ^^^ff^'^o, to be couuted by thousands, — or, I may say,
lerds of teus of thousauds of head, — graze by the margin of the
■ forest, rushing off in a thundering gallop when the rifle
bullet crashes in among them. On January 24th I shot five
buffaloes, which all fell, though I could only secure one ..gigantic
specimen, as a pursuit, even of a quarter of an hour, would
have been too great an interruption to the business of the expe-
dition. To give my people time to cut up the great beast, I
set up my camp at noon near the western slope of the Surrongai
Hills, once more halting this side of Kawirondo.
It was a dull, rainy day, but we were all in a state of
joyous excitement ; for now we knew for certain that next
morning we should reach the fruitful land of Kawirondo,
where we hoped to receive news concerning the object of
our expedition.
Just before two o'clock, four Wandorobbo suddenly ap-
peared at my camp. I invited them to stay the night with
us, and on the next day to show us a convenient way down
into Kawirondo, which was situated at a considerably lower
THE DESCENT TO KAWIRONDO. 29-5
level. On this daj'-, January 25th, it was proved that the
course I had pursued, without alteration from Elgeio, „
. 1 ' . - & J ' Fortunate
had been entirely the right one. In an almost direct route to
line we struck Kabaras, having deviated from the
chief town only half a mile, towards the north.
A march of three-quarters of an hour brought us to-day,
first to the edge of the Surrongai Mountains, and then we all
at once beheld before us the villages and plantations of Kawi-
rondo, from among which cheerful, fair-promising clouds of
smoke rose towards the sky.
The Wandorobbo accurately pointed out the chief place of
Kabaras, and then begged permission to return, as they were at
war with the Kawirondo people. I granted their request.
We had now before us the difficult task of finding a way
down to the lower ground. The Angata na Nyuki here forms
an almost perpendicular wall of 1,400 feet, and, at first sight,
it seemed impossible to commence the descent. Twice we were
obliged to turn back, because again and again there were a difficult
places where the descent was literally perpendicular, and »<!ra"i''ie-
which were impassable. At last I discovered a more gradual
slope ; and here, going on in advance with the Somali Omar
Idle, I found a way for my caravan, first over loose rocks, and
then through grass as tall as a man.
Within two hours, all had arrived below, and I now resumed
my march exactly in a western direction, according to a land-
mark I had fixed upon above. I marched till nearly three in
the afternoon, and halted when I found myself by the side of
a stream, opposite the first plantations of the Wakawirondo.
According to my custom, I wished to meet the inhabitants of
the country for the first time, not with a weary and hungry
caravan, but on the next morning, with one refreshed by rest.
I had marched in advance, with Rukua, Hussein, and two
other Somalis, and I now sent two Somalis back to bring up
my people. It was more than an hour before they succeeded in
bringing in the herd, and it was almost six o'clock when Rukua,
whom I sent off later, managed to find the porters and Herr
von Tiedemann, who had lost their way, and branched off in a
296 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
wrong direction to the south. There was just enough time to
set up the tents before it grew dark, and then the usual stormy
rain came splashing down upon us. But the kitchen was under
a tent-roof, and so we could enjoy a strengthening
under soup and some roast mutton, — each of us separately,
■ however, as Herr von Tiedemann was still ill ; and
afterwards over a pipe, while the rain, now more gentle and
melodious, continued to fall, we gave ourselves up to pleasant
contemplation of the improved prospects of our expedition.
A short march of hardly half an hour brought us, next
morning, to the first villages of the people of Kabaras. I fired
off two shots as a greeting, and then, with the flag borne in
advance, we marched with beat of drum upon the capital,
Kabaras, a place encircled by a wall of clay, at the northern
entrance of which sat the elders, ready to give us a friendly
welcome. " Jambo Sdna ! " was the cry. We turned off to the
left outside the town, and under some mighty cotton trees, a
little below the southern enclosure of Kabaras, we pitched our
camp.
My first enquiry was naturally after the white man in
News of Kawirondo. "Are there any white men in Ka-
wMtemen. ^ondo .P "
" Yes," was the simultaneous reply of all.
" How many ? "
" Some say two, and others four."
" Have the white men many soldiers ? "
" Yes, a very great number, and every morning they blow
the trumpet, just as you do."
" Do you know the names of the white men ? Is one of
them called Emin Pasha ? And are Turkis among them ? "
" Emin Pasha ? We don't know him."
" Where do the white men come from ? Do they come from
the coast, or have they come from the interior ? "
" They have come from the south, round the Nyanza."
" Then perhaps their leader is called Stanley ? "
" Yes, yes, quite right, Stamuley."
These questions I addressed repeatedly to several of the
" TO ANY EUROPEAN GENTLEMAN." 297
Wakawirondo, and always got the same answer, "Yes, cer-
tainly, Stamuley. They have also cattle with them— a great
herd, and their head man is called Stamuley ! "
That was certainly a very notable piece of news for us.
Could Stanley, of whose movements I knew nothing further
than that he had marched back, the first time, from Mwutan
Nzige to the Congo, perhaps have marched to the Victoria
Nyanza by the Udidji Tabora road, and from thence to
Kawirondo, to get in touch with Emin Pasha from that place ;
or was Emin Pasha with him, though perchance the natives
did not know the Pasha's name ?
I immediately sat down, and wrote the following letter: —
"Kabaras, January 2Qth, 1890.
" SiR,^On my arrival here this morning I got news, that
Europeans are in Kwa Sundu. As I shall arrive at
Letter to a
Kwa Sundu on Wednesday or Thursday next, I shall possible
be charmed to meet any gentleman who may be at "'^"p®*'''
that place, and shall be obliged for a line to tell me whom
I may have the pleasure to see.
" I have the honour. Sir, to be, yours truly,
" Dr. Gael Peters.
" To any European gentleman who may be in Kwa Sundu or
in Kawirondo."
This letter I immediately sent off by the two Somalis,
Sameter and Jama Ismael, with a Kawirondo man for a guide,
to Kwa Sundu, with orders to send me the answer to Kwa
Sakwa, to which place I intended to march next day.
Meanwhile I observed, with real interest, the remarkable
figures of the Kawirondo people, who crowded into my camp.
In great gourd bottles they brought grain of all kinds, ^^^ g^^._
and honey, besides eggs, fowls, and milk. The men are rondo
clothed with an apron, but the ladies of the land are as
unclad as possible ; a remarkable contrast to the Massailands,
where exactly the reverse was the case. Only the married
women wore an apron of very limited size, and had also rings
298
.Y/-:ir LinuT ox davk afjuca.
oil tln'ir ;ir]iis niul k\i>s and in their ears, and cliains aliout their
iiecl;s. The inmiarried j^irls went abont exactly as Heaven liad
made them.
Mingied with the L'antii jjopnlation are here to he tiniiKh
Wakawieosdo.
everywhere, fragments of the once mighty Earingo-x\Iassai trihe,
called Wakuafi, who were driven ont trom the Angata na Nyuki
by the Southern Massais. Here they generally do landskneclit-
service for the native sultans, and, in fact, supply the principal
warrior contingent f jr the whole of Kawirondo.
-VAXyEBS OF THE WAKAWIBOXDO.
299
Thomson has much to tell of the danger of his position in
Kawn-oudo. He was veiy apprehensive of being killed. I must
confess that we experienced no anxieties of the kind, among
these simple and sociable ix^oiile. In fact, it was true
, , .1 4 , . T- \ \ ■ , ' Mr. Thom-
Avtiat the Arabs m Kapte had said, one could go (_»ut son's
walking here without arms, and only with a walking- °^'"'°''-
stick. Among the Massais themselves, Thomson had exhibited
p''"
Wakawikoxdo.
a good nature of which I have alread}' spoken. That this good
nature did not altogether emanate from the Christian feeling of
love for oue's neighbour, in pursuance of the command to offer
the right cheek when the left is smitten, Th(jmson manifests
by the description of his behaviour towards the 31assais in
Kawirondo, in his work entitled "Among the Massai." He
tells how the Wakawirondo attempted the same insolent bragga-
docio and arros;ance, but how he soon made them understand
300 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
that what he had put up with from the Massais in tlieir own
country, he would not endure from them ; and further acknow-
ledges that, from a certain desire of vengeance, long suppressed,
it gave him no small satisfaction to encounter those rascals
wrathfuU}', when any one of them tried his patience ; and that
his people were equally charmed to have it out with them, and
to threaten, with tremendous objurgations, to inflict unspeakable
torments upon them.
I have also always found the Massais in Kawirondo quite
well behaved with respect to us, and was not obliged, on a
single occasion, to repel insolence on their part.
The luxurious plenty in food, in this country, had a per-
fectly inspiring effect on us and my people. The fowls were
fat and tender, and three of them were scarcely sufficient to
satisfy the appetite of one of us at breakfast, so strong was
the craving of our bodies, after the toils of the last months,
A land of to patch themselves up anew. The honey was perfectly
plenty. ^yhite, like sugar, and deliciously fragrant of flowers.
We had also milk and eggs, which latter were eaten in the
poached, and especially in the omelet form. Beans and corn,
and grain fruits of all kinds, eaten with milk, as porridge, or
with strong gravy as a concomitant of meat, formed an agree-
able change from our ordinary meat diet ; and glorious bananas,
eaten raw, or baked in fat and sugar, made a capital dessert.
The whole world appeared in new colours ; and then, the
mysterious white men were in the immediate vicinity.
On January 27th we celebrated the Emperor's birthday by
a special dinner, and with beat of drum we went, on the 28th,
with our guide in advance, on well-made paths, towards the
south. The landscape put on a more and more cultivated
appearance, with villages close to each other, and well-fed herds
of oxen to be seen in the meadows. When we marched past, a
settlement of people would come and offer corn, milk, and honey
Fear of the for Sale. Here the reputation of the conquerors of the
Massais. Massais produced its full etfect. I dare to assert that
on the strength of this fact we were more popular in Kawirondo
than in any other part of our march, for here the Massais are
INTERVIEW WITH WANGWANA. 301
sufficiently known in all their brutal cruelty and dangerous
wildness.
Between two villages, on a lovely declivity in a richly-
cultivated plain, I pitched my camp on this day, and unfurled
the great flag of the expedition at the margin of the slope, so
that it was visible over the whole landscape.
Scarcely had I had the tents set up, when suddenly shots
were fired in the low ground beneath us, and directly
afterwards five men, clad in white shirts, came hurrying from the
up at full speed, with friendly greetings.
" There come the messengers from the white men ! " said
the Wakawirondo, and forthwith the newcomers were led by
my Somalis in front of my chair.
" Who are you ? " I enquired.
""W'e are Wangwana from the coast, and these are the sons
and the people of the Sultan Sakwa, of Kawirondo. The Sultan
sends us to bid you welcome to his country."
"What white men are there in Kawirondo, and what do
you know about them P "
' " They are Englishmen— Mr. Jackson, Mr. Martin, and two
more."
" How long have they been here ? "
" For many months ; but a short time ago they went to
Elgumi, and farther up, to shoot elephants."
" What are they doing here ? "
" They have made a station in Kwa Sundu, and are buying
ivory. Messengers have come to them, too, from Uganda, but
in Uganda there is war, and no one can go there. The Arabs
have driven away Muanga, and killed all the Christians. The
Englishmen do not like to go into this country."
" Are they friends with your Sultan ? "
" Sakwa, our Sultan, is great and rich. He does not love
the people who come here to buy ivory and shoot ^^j^^p^,..
game. Sakwa loves the thorough people who under- tant oon-
^ • 1 1 i xi_ verBation.
stand war. We know that you. Sir, have beaten the
Massais, and therefore Sakwa will be your friend. He sends us
to announce this to you, and invites you to march to-morrow
302 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
to his residence at Kwa Sakwa, to make a station there ; Sakwa
will not have the English, he loves the Germans. But whither
are you journeying ? "
"I am journeying into the land of the Turki, to Emin
Pasha. Have you any tidings of him ? "
" The Turki are said to he yonder " (pointing to the north),
"hut they are very far away. We have no tidings of them.
Emin Pasha we do not know."
" Do you know the way to Unjoro P "
" Unjoro is very far off; we do not know the way there.
Six years ago a white man came here ; he wanted to go to
Uganda, hut the Waganda killed all his people. The Waganda
are very bad, and none of us go out in that direction."
" Send messengers back to your Sultan, and tell him I shall
come to him to-morrow ; that I want to go to Uganda, and
come as a friend. Everything else I will talk over with him
personally to-morrow."
So now we had the explanation concerning our white men in
Kawirondo ; and, in truth, it was the nascitur ridiculus mus.
We had come across the Jackson Emin Pasha Expedition, 'and
probably the people of Kabaras had heard the name of
" Stanley," with whom this expedition was to co-operate,
mentioned in it.
The following days would bring us further explanations, and
therefore for to-day we entirely refrained from conjecture.
Next morning we proceeded in a south-west direction over
some high ranges. Everywhere we saw enormous herds of
The sakwa's cattle. "All those belong to the Sakwa," said the
possessions, glides. The Massais who tended the cattle hurried up
to greet us respectfully, and after we had crossed an affluent of
the Nsoia, all at once the great red walls and the lofty gates
of Kwa Sakwa rose before us, not like a village, but like a
town.
A dense crowd came streaming out of the gate towards us,
and I was immediately informed that the Sultan himself, with
his brothers, was coming to meet us, to give us suitable greet-
ing. But as I did not sufficiently know the intentions of these
ARRIVAL AT K^YA SAKWA. 303
people, I gave orders to have the firearms ready for action, for
whatever might happen.
Thus in close order we marched towards the north-east
gate of the town. About three hundred j'ards to the right, by
the wayside, was a gigantic tree, and under this tree Sakwa sat
with his people. A great bronze chain hung round his neck,
and his arms were profusely ornamented with artistic copper
rings. He carried a lance in his right hand, and a shirt of a
cotton fabric covered his body. When I marched towards him,
he rose from his seat, with all his following, and strode towards
me with his hand extended. Hand in hand we then moved
with ceremonious gravity towards the entrance gate of Kwa
Sakwa. A wide ditch surrounds the walls of the place, over
which a dam leads to the gate. On entering the en- The town
closure, the stranger first comes upon a great open "* sakwa.
space, surrounded by the houses of the war garrison of the
place. From thence he comes to a second great space, which
is surrounded, in a wide circle, by the many houses of the
sultan. All these houses are full of hundreds of women, in
whose midst he himself dwells. The king pointed out to me
that this place belonged to me. I might either dwell in his
houses, or have my tents set up. At the same time he pointed
to two fat oxen, that were to be my food for to-day, and every
morning, so long as I stayed there, two other oxen would be
ready for us. Then brown beer was brought for us in great
jugs, and to this were added honey, eggs, poultry, and milk,
as well as golden yellow bananas. Soon houses had been
prepared for my people ; the tents were set up, and at the hour
of noon the black, white, and red flag waved for the first time
in the midst of Kwa Sakwa.
Scarcely had I established myself comfortably in my tent,
and bathed and shaved, as I was accustomed to do every day
so soon as the march was ended, when a sudden firing portera
of guns from the southern gate announced a new visit, ^l^^ll^
Porters belonging to the English expedition came to expedition,
welcome us, and from them I received more definite informa-
tion concerning its objects, and especially about Ali Somal,
304 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
who was, they told me, chief of the station, in the absence of
the four white men. They said that the expedition had a
strength of five hundred porters, and was armed with Reming-
tons, and well supplied with ammunition. They had more
than fifty loads of cartridges still in stock.
In the afternoon Ali Somal came over himself from Kwa
Sundu to greet us — a young Somali, of intelligent appearance,
and almost gentlemanlike bearing, in a completely European
garb, who very courteously bad us welcome, and immediately
Arrival of Came out with an invitation that we should shift our
Ali Somal. quarters, as soon as possible, to his place in the Enghsh
station. He said, "Mr. Jackson would be much offended with
me if I allowed you to live herewith the Sakwa. He will regret
very much that he is absent just now ; but at all events you
must wait until he returns."
" But where has Mr. Jackson gone ? Has he perhaps
marched through Elgumi to Emin Pasha P "
"By no means. If he had gone to Emin Pasha he
would certainly have taken me with him. No, he is hunting.
He has been hunting for some time — several weeks — yonder
on the Elgon, and has killed several elephants, and has
probably now marched further to the northward for the same
purpose."
"But if he only wants to hunt, why does he take four
hundred and fifty men, and all the white men, to the
northward with him ? Has he only come into this region
to hunt.P"
"Not so. We were commissioned to put ourselves in
communication with Stanley from this place, to support his
expedition in the Nile countries. But Stanley has marched
back, by the western side of Lake Victoria, to the coast, and
so we could not help him."
" Stanley has marched off, by the western side of Lake
Victoria ? But then he has gone back for the second time to
Emin Pasha; and has Emin Pasha perhaps even gone away
with him.P"
"No, Emin Pasha has remained behind in his country.
INFORMATION AND EXPLANATION. 305
With Stanley another white ' man went southward. Emin
Pasha has been at war with the Wangoro, who have .
^ Accounts of
beaten his people, and driven him up towards the Emm
north. He is quite alone now in the Equatorial
Province, and to reach him from here is impossible."
" How do you know that ? "
"Mr. Jackson would have been uncommonly glad to march
to Emin Pasha, or at all events to Uganda ; but he might not
do this, as all the tribes to the west of us are hostile, and we
should simply have gone to our death if we had marched
thither. The Wangoro will have nothing to do with the whites,
and the Arabs rule in Uganda. The Waganda kill every white
man who comes into the country, and an expedition that
advances into these regions is lost from the beginning."
" Have you had news from Uganda ? "
" Yes, repeatedly. The people of the last Waganda depu-
tation are at present still in my camp, and you can question
them yourself. The Christians of Uganda have already sent to
us several times, asking us to bring help to them, and then
they would accept the English flag ; but Mr. Jackson has always
declined this, saying he was too weak for it. Wait for Mr.
Jackson ; he will relate all this to you more clearly himself.
In fourteen days he must be back."
" I cannot wait here for fourteen days, for in a few days I
shall march away from here to the west."
" You intend to march from here to the west ? "
" Most certainly. If Emin Pasha is alone in his province
now, he has the more need of help."
" But to go to the west is quite impossible. You will be
leading yourself and all your people to death. Emin Pasha has
been beaten, and is no longer what he was."
"If Emin Pasha has been beaten, he needs help all the
more. Moreover, how do you know for certain that an advance
to the west is impracticable ?
"We have good intelligence from every quarter. I can
show you the letters from Uganda itself, if you care to see them.
You will then see it all yourself, and give up the plan of leading
20
306 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
all your people to destruction. I have an especial interest
in this, as there are twelve brothers of my own in your expedi-
tion, whose lives I would wish to save. Read the letters from
Uganda yourself to-morrow, and you will say I am right."
" Very good. Now go to the Somalis, who will give you
news from your country. So long as you remain with me in
Kwa Sakwa you are my guest."
"What tidings were these that I received here ? The great
English Emin Pasha Expedition had been lying for months past
Bewilder- on the borders of the Nile countries, without venturing
concerSng ^m advauce in this direction. Emin Pasha beaten by
^™^°- the Wangoro, and remaining behind, solitary at his post,
while his white companion (evidently Casati) had gone away
with Stanley to the coast ! Uganda in the hands of the Arabs,
and Kaba-Rega, whom, from Emin's description, I knew to be
his faithful friend, now the enemy of the Europeans and of
Emin himself! It will be understood that I was excited to the
utmost degree by these tidings, whose authenticity we had no
reason to doubt. But out of the chaos of my feelings the soli-
tary figure of Emin Pasha rose again and again, amid a world
of hostile powers, forsaken by all, assailed by the Mahdi in the
north and the Wangoro in the south, with nothing left before
his eyes but ruin, and, as it appeared to us, resolved to en-
counter it. How could we for a moment waver in our deter-
mination, now more than ever, to hasten to him, either to give
him help, or, if it must be, to fall with him ?
But let us first wait to see what the next day will bring in
the way of further explanations. It brought, in the first place,
a peculiar request on the part of the Sultan Sakwa. Early in
the morning he appeared in front of my tent, to make me the
following proposal : —
" Two hours to the north of this place," said he, " dwells
the robber tribe of the Mangati, in a land which we call Ngoro.
These people are continually making inroads into my territory,
threatening my herds, and burning down my villages. They
have laid waste the whole west, from the Nsoia River. I have
begged the English repeatedly to beat back these Mangati, and
PROPOSAL TO FIGHT THE JfANGATI. 307
offered, if they would do this, to accept their flag for Kawirondo.
But the English are people of fear ; they have shut themselves
up in their stations, and are afraid of the strife with the Man-
gati. Now you Germans are come, you who have proposal of
beaten the Massais themselves, I will give you all my ^'^^ ^""*^-
Askaris. You shall then beat the Mangati, and I will accept
your flag, and give you half of the cattle that shall be taken
from the Mangati,"
" But what have I to do with the Mangati ? I have no
thought of fighting with the Mangati. We have been obliged
to fight with the Massais because they attacked us first. We
Germans, in fact, only fight when we are attacked, or when
people are attacked who are under our protection."
" Well, we will come under your protection. You shall be
our lord if you beat the Mangati for us."
" Even if I wished to do you that favour, I could not at the
present moment. I must march to the west, to a great white
man who lives there. If I shoot away my cartridges here, how
am I to get to my friend on the Nile ? "
" You cannot get to the Nile, anyway. There dwell the
Waganda, who are very bad, and kill every one who comes to
them. A little while ago a white man was among us here, who
also wanted to march into those lands. The Waganda killed
him and all his people."
" But are the Wasoga as bad, too ? If I march on this
side of the Nile, through Usoga, and afterwards on this side
of the river past Unjoro, I have no occasion to fear the
Waganda."
" The Wasoga and the Waganda are just the same," said he.
"The Wasoga are slaves of the Mfalme (king) of Uganda, and
must do everything he tells them."
" But by the time the news of our marching through arrives
at Uganda we shall have long passed Usoga ; and if the
Wasoga hinder us in doing so, we will beat them just as we
have beaten the Massais."
" In Usoga there are many Waganda, and they have there
very many guns. All the tribes behind you you could beat.
308 NEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA.
but if you attempt to make war on the Waganda and the
Report on Wasoga, j'ou Will perlsh. Beat the Mangati for us,
Indwa^'^^and accept our hospitality. Meanwhile, we will send
ganda. tidings to the white man. If he is as great as you say,
he will send you soldiers, so that you may come safely to him.
We know very well that yonder, towards the sinking sun, the
Turki dwell, and that they have many guns. If their sultan is
a white man, wait here for news from him, and then you will
get to him safely."
" I have now understood all your words. Go now, and leave
me alone, that I may refer it to my God. This afternoon I will
give you my answer."
The alluring part of Sakwa's offer was that by accepting it
I should be sure of being strongly backed from Kawirondo. If
we beat the Mangati, our credit towards the west would also be
considerably increased ; and this, again, might possibly be
decisive in the matter of our march to Usoga. On the other
hand, it was not in accordance with my principles to attack,
under the German flag, a tribe that had not first committed
acts of hostility towards us. Accordingly, I resolved
acceptance that while I would give support to the Sultan in
lance. p^^^^j^g (Jq^^ ^he plundering tribe in the south, I
would not allow the German flag, or any one of us white men,
to have a part in the affair.
I granted him, for the next morning, thirty -five men, under
the leadership of Hussein, with the stipulation that, on his side,
he should also put under Hussein's command all his Askaris,
his Massais, and his Bantu, and should give them an oppor-
tunity of pushing forward to the Mangati that very night, that
they might attack their foes, and beat them next morning before
sunrise.
Sakwa acquiesced in everything ; but, as the negroes do, he
only half fulfilled his promises. Instead of Hussein's being
Sakwa's Conducted to meet the enemy between four and five
politeness, o'clock, as I had demanded, it was between seven and
eight before they reached Ngoro, which was not four, but
between six and eight miles distant.
DEFEAT OF THE HANG ATI. 309
The Mangati had taken the alarm, had driven their herds
to the rear, and were awaiting my people in order of battle.
A very obstinate and even murderous combat ensued,
1 • 1 TT ■ • n ^ , The best
m which Hussem committed a fault, by not fol- tactics in
lowing the tactics we had always put in practice, *^'''"'^-
of advancing with a " Hurrah ! " after a few volleys, but
still cautiously, and keeping distance, and thus routing the
foe.
The whole morning we heard the lively rattle of the per-
cussion guns, and the sharper ring of the long barrels ; and we
also saw the flames rising from some villages in the south.
Towards three o'clock in the afternoon the soldiers of
Sakwa were the first to come marching back in great bodies,
each some hundreds strong, singing a harsh war-song, with a
rhythmic measure, something like the following, " Hu, hu, hu,
hu, hu ! hu, hu, hu, hu, hu ! " and then my people came march-
ing home, intoning their own war-song. The Mangati .
had indeed been thoroughly beaten, had lost two villages return of
and fifty-six men ; but Hussein had not succeeded in
getting possession of herds of cattle, and the expedition's store
of cartridges, already greatly lessened before this combat, had
by it been reduced to the utmost. I had now only forty to
fifty cartridges per man for the repeating rifles, and, into the
bargain, we had several men wounded. On the other hand, all
Kawirondo was certainly full of admiration of our little troop,
and this was speedily communicated towards the west as far
as Uganda. That same evening, Sakwa brought oxen to be
slaughtered for my people, and on the following afternoon hoisted
the great black, white, and red flag, on a hill in his capital, on
a flagstaff" fifty feet high. His wives performed dances in honour
of us.
But, after all, what did this signify, compared to the fact
that we had so few cartridges left, and with this reduced strength
were now to march away into the dangerous territory of the
Nile ?
The treaty which I concluded with Sakwa on February 1st
was in the following words : —
310 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
" Sultan Sakwa, of Kawirondo, begs Dr. Carl Peters for
his flag. He acknowledges Dr. Peters unreservedly as his
lord.
"Dr. Carl Peters promises to protect Sultan Sakwa according
to his power, and to help him in the conquest of the
with Sultan whole of Kawiroudo, so far as is consonant with Dr.
Peters's other plans.
" Sultan Sakwa solemnly hoists the German flag to-day in
his capital. Both parties complete this treaty by the signatures
of witnesses.
" Dk. Carl Peters.
" Mark of the Sultan of Witu.
Witnesses
Son of the Sviltan Lutonia, Wasua.
Brother of the Sultan, Kueju.
Son of the Sultan, Sanialute.
Htissein Fara, leader of the Somali ; and
" Musa, headman of the porters."
On the basis of this treaty, I left with the Sultan the follow-
ing letter for the English : —
" Sultan Sakwa has asked me for my flag, and I have
granted his request, that I may have a support behind me for
my further advance to Emin Pasha. Sultan Sakwa has accorded
to me that he will look on his place as my property, for the
purposes of my expedition, and for any other plans
plaining I may have in this part of Africa. I accordingly
^ "^^^ ^' declare the land of Kawirondo to be my possession,
until I may dispose of it otherwise with the concurrence of
Sultan Sakwa. Accordingly I shall deal with any infringe-
ment of the rights of Sultan Sakwa as with an infringement
of my own rights.
(Signed) " Dr. Carl Peters."
Next morning, in spite of the importunate entreaties of
Sakwa that I would stay longer, I marched away, with beat of
FORWARn TO THE SOUTH.
311
drum, through a well-cultivated country, towards the south,
to set up my camp on that day in the English station of
Kwa Sundu. Here I should receive definite intbrma-
<_• • ii , /. , . . , Advance to
tion concernmg the state ot thmgs m the west, and Kwa
could make up my mind accordingly, whether I ^'""'"•
might risk the march through Uganda, or whether I had
the choice of passing round that country and pushing forward
direct upon Unjoro.
A/JVANCE rpox rxjoiio
AND DEVIATION TO
UGANDA, TO ASSIST THE
CHPJSTIAN PARTY.
For, with the
presume ,
Himself to measure.''
there sbah no man
Goethe.
WE were very soou coni-
I'ortablv established iu
The young sultan received us with a
Ibrtably est
the English station.
present of honour of three oxen for slaughtering, though he
certainly added to the gift the cool retiuest : We had beaten the
Mangati in the vicinity of Kwa Sakwa, and therefore he begged
„. ., . that to-morrow we would beat the Manszati in the
Visit from ... _ ~ .
the Sultan viciuity of Kwa Suudu. There came, besides, the
and chiefs, i • ,. ' j-. , ^ r . . . «
chieis (jt the iViassais m Kawu'oudo, with presents oi
honour, and the request to be allowed to enter into the position
of a treaty, and into iriendly relations with me. They declared
they were all oi' them ready to acknowledge me as their lord
antl chief I put them all oft till my return fr(jm tlie Equatorial
I DISTURBANCES IN UGANDA. 313
Province. So soon, I said, as I had reached my German brother
there, I would come back with an increased force, and then we
would hold introductory councils on their relation to my tribe.
From the written communications laid before me by Ali
Soma! I first obtained the following authentic intelligence out
of a despatch from Mr. Mackay, dated Usumbiro,
August 25th, 1889, to Emin Pasha, which was evi-kay'sde-
dently lying here, in the English station, to be for- °^**'''''
warded, and I herewith give an extract of the substance of its
contents : —
" Muanga, the son and successor of Mtesas, King of Uganda,
developed more and more, in the year 1887, into a malignant
tyrant, until in September or October 1888, after he had
attempted to murder his guards, most of whom were
either Christians or Mahometans, these guards suddenly son of
mutinied, and drove him from the throne. The de-
throned king escaped in a canoe to the south side of Lake
Victoria.
" A brother of Muanga's, named Kiwewa, was invested with
his power, and, in the first instance, proclaimed freedom for all
beliefs ; but soon afterwards he turned against the Christians,
and, after a slaughter among them, drove them all away. They
took refuge in Buragalla (Usagara), which is also The rule of
called Ancore, whose king, Antari, received them as '^'"^^^■
colonists. (See on this subject Stanley's ' In Darkest Africa,'
vol. ii., ch. 32, pp. 333-37). Only a few escaped in canoes
to the south side of the lake, and were received, some by the
Romish priests in Ukumbi, and some by the Englishmen in
Usumbiro. Mr. Gordon and Mr. Walker, as well as the Romish
missionaries in Uganda, were kept prisoners for a week, and
both the mission stations were plundered and destroyed, and
thereupon all missionaries were allowed to leave Uganda in the
Christian boat. Naturally, the Arabs were the chief instigators
and the principal agents in the overthrowing of the Christian
missions ; but they themselves did not long enjoy the favour of
Kiwewa. He found them too zealous in their desire to circum-
314 ysW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
cise him, and one day he caused all their chief men, declared
Mahometans, to be arrested in Burgah, and with his own hand
killed three of their leaders. In some way or another the others,
however, got back their freedom immediately afterwards, and
now Kiwewa had to fly for his life.
" Then another brother, named Karema for Kalema), was
chosen king, and his troops succeeded in annihilating the army
assembled by Kiwewa. The latter fell into the hands
Karema *'
chosen of Karema, and was chained up, and killed. Muanga at
first took refuge with the Arabs of Nuya, but after-
wards left them, disgusted at the bad treatment he had received,
and betook himself to the French in Ukumbi, where he resided
until April 1888. Meanwhile Mr. Stokes, formerly a member
of the English expedition, now a trader, arrived from the coast
with a boat of his own. Muanga pressed him to take him back to
Uganda, and to make an attempt to regain his lost throne.
The boat was landed in the neighbourhood of the mouth of the
RebeiUon Kagcra, where Muanga raised the standard of rebellion,
raised by and soou gained a great following, especially among
the brotherhood of the banished Christians in Busagala
or Ankora. Karema sent a strong army to meet Muanga, and
destroyed his warlike force.
"Muanga himself escaped to the Sesse Islands, where he was
acknowledged by the islanders. He once more found himself at
the head of a not inconsiderable force, with all the canoes of
Muanga at ^^^ ^^^^- ^^^^^ these he advanced to Murchison Bay,
Mandf^ and disembarked on a little island opposite Mun-
yonyo, formerly th^ residence of a king. It was called
Bulingogwe.
" Karema sent out an army to prevent Muanga from landing,
under the leadership of an Arab named Hamis Belul ; but this
force soon retired. Muanga's troops landed, and burnt Mun-
yonyo. A battle also took place in Kyagore, in which Karema's
army was beaten."
So far the information extends in Mr. Mackay's writing.
He goes on to say that Mr. Stokes soon afterwards returned to
:]rrANGA's power and position. 315
Ukumbi, and now, namely, in August 1889, had the intention
to return with a new supply of weapons and ammunition to
Muanga's assistance. Muanga had sent an invitation Mr. stokes's
to the French and the English to come and establish e''t«'^P"'«-
themselves in the Sesse Islands. A few Frenchmen had already
started, and Mr. Gordon and Mr. Walker were going off in
canoes to Sesse next day.
Mr. Mackay adds his own reflections: "Of course the
missionaries cannot assist Muanga in the fight, but their
presence is able to give prestige to his name, while it may also
give courage to their respective communities, who at this
time contribute almost the sole force of Muanga. Protestants
and Catholics together, they number about fifteen hundred men,
but according to their own estimate, two thousand. „ . .
. Opinion
They have, I believe, one thousand guns in all, but very of Mr.
little powder. Besides these, Muanga has several
thousands of heathen adherents, armed with spear and shield,
while Karema has more than two thousand guns, and all the
Arabs and their slaves at his back. But Karema is, I believe "
(which was a mistake of Mackay 's), " not inclined to Islam, and
only uses that party as his chief means of defence. A short
time ago he murdered all the princes and princesses on whom he
could lay his hands, for fear one or other of them should come
forward as a rival for the throne.
" This has not increased his popularity, and I hear that
several of his leading adherents are rebellious ; but they are
afraid to attach themselves to Muanga, as he is bitter against
all who have made profession of Mahometanism. My counsel
to Muanga is, for the present, to remain quietly in position of
possession of the Sesse Islands, and with the help of ^"^'^sa.
the numerous canoes he possesses (while Karema has none) to
blockade the coast of Uganda, (Buganda in the Kiganda
language), and to hinder the Arabs from obtaining reinforce-
ments. In this way he will gradually gain many adherents.
In fact, most of his former chiefs, offended by Karema, have
already attached themselves to him, though certainly with only
a few followers.
31(i NEW LIGHT 0^f DARK AFRICA.
" When Mr. Stokes left Uganda the news had reached
there of the arrival of a few white men in the vicinity of
Wachores land. This, we believed, must be the advanced guard
Ex ected °^ ^^^ British East African Expedition, on its way to
British Wadelai with provisions and ammunition for you
African (Emiu), for whose assistance Muanga has sent, to put
Expedition, ^.^^^j^.^ alliance with them ; but we have no further
news of them." (This information evidently had reference to the
English expedition in Kawirondo, in whose own camp we were
tarrying just then.)
Mr. Mackay now continues with a someAvhat cool proposal
to Emin Pasha, to whom it appeared no less quaint when I
afterwards communicated it to him at Mpuapua, than it did to
me when I first read it.
" Now is the time to strike a strong blow for the right to
win Uganda. For if they (Jackson and his companions) assist
, Muanga in pulling down Karema and his Arabs, and
Chances of . ° ^ . "
an attempt bring Muauga himself back to the throne, the land will
gan a. g^f^gj-^g^j-jjg ]^q virtually in their hands, and they will
possess the key to all the western environs of Lake Victoria.
But, I fear, the British East Africa Company has for soldiers
Zanzibar porters, on whom little reliance can be placed."
Now comes the point.
"You (Emin Pasha) have the army, and only by the
assistance of one or two regiments of your troops, under suitable
leaders, does it become possible to overthrow Karema's fanatical
army, and to restore the ex-king Muanga to power, not, as before,
as an independent sovereign, but as an agent of the British East
Africa Company." (Certainly exceedingly attractive for Emin
, ^ Pasha. Fancy a German missionary making such a
Proposal to •' j n
Emin proposal to an Englishman of birth, to win a kingdom
for a German Colonial Company ! ) " His deposition and
banishment appear to have taught him a lesson, and I at least
have some hope that if he once again gets into power, he will rule
more wisely than he has done. Nevertheless, according to my
MR. .VACKAY'S PROPOSAL TO E.VIX. 317
conviction, it is especial!)- desirable that it should not be left to
him to rely upon his own sources of help, but that he should
become dependent upon outsiders for his kingdom ; that is to
say, upon yourself aud the British East Africa Company. In
this way his future good behaviour will be secured.
" I have asked Messrs. Walker and Gordon to write to you
on your arrival in Sesse, and accurately to explain the situation
of affairs as they found it, I have been requested, theough
THE CoNSUL-GeNBRAL IN ZANZIBAR, AS WELL AS THROUGH Decided
THE AGENTS OF THE COMPANY (MeSSRS. SmITH, MACKENZIE mUsionlry
AND Co., AND BY Mr. MaCKENNON HIMSELF ), TO PROMOTE "^*^'^^^^*""®-
THE INTERESTS OF THE COMPANY SO FAR AS I CAN." (Surcly this
means to work as its political agent !) "I do not see how I can
do this better, from m)^ standpoint, than by making you and
the gentlemen at the head of the expedition acquainted with the
exact position of things at this time in Uganda, in the belief
that there is at present a rare opportunity, which might never
recur in our lifetime, not only to secure the market in Uganda,
but also to acquire the control over the whole country. The fact
that my ' brethren,' as well as the French missionaries, are
prepared to attach themselves to Muanga will, I am sure, be to
you an efficient guarantee that this side must be preferred.
Karema is fanatical, and so long as he is in power he will ever
be the enemy of all those who, like ourselves and the British
East Africa Company, have at heart the welfare of the maritime
territory."
This letter will, in the first place, form a not uninteresting
commentary on Stanley's assertion ("In Darkest Africa,"
vol. ii., p. 350): "The Christian converts gave them (the
missionaries) an excellent character, and repeated Stanley's
much of the good advice Mr. IMackay had bestowed on X"^? °^
them ; which were undoubted proofs that though the sionaries.
yoke of Muanga was exceedingly heavy to them, the mission-
aries had in this abstained from meddling in the politics of the
country."
I have given it here in its entirety, because it really gives a
318 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
very clear picture of the position of affairs in Uganda, and
especially of the English designs upon these lands.
From other documents, of which I got a view in Kwa Sundu,
I further learned that, with the assistance of Stokes, Muanga
had, in fact, beaten Karema's followers on October 4th, 1889,
and regained possession of the throne, and that he had de-
victoryof spatched two embassies to the English expedition in
Muanga. j^^wirondo, with the request to Mr. Jackson to bring
him assistance, professing himself ready, if this were done, not
only to bestow on the British East Africa Company the mono-
poly of trade in Uganda and all his lands, but also to place
himself under a British protectorate.
This correspondence was signed by Muanga himself, by the
English missionaries, and also by Pere Lourdel. From the
series of letters I was able to ascertain that Mr. Jackson had
first delayed this affair, and then in writing declined it alto-
gether. This answer I did not see until later in Uganda, and
there I found that, with his five hundred Remingtons,
Bon's pro- he had not considered himself strong enough to march
upon Uganda, where, according to all that he knew,
the parties were pretty equally balanced, but preferred to go
out hunting to the north, where he was at that time. From
the last letter signed by Pere Lourdel, dated on December 1st,
from the Island of Bulingogwe, it appears that at the end of
November the army of Muanga must again have been beaten
(which had really happened on November 22nd), that the
Christians had once more taken refuge on the islands of Lake
Victoria, and from thence had despatched a more urgent prayer
than ever to the English expedition for assistance. The docu-
ment bearing upon this I herewith reproduce : —
"BULINGUSE, 1, XII., 89.
" BiEN GHEE MoNsiEUE, — Nous avous appris avec peine que
vous ne pourriez pas venir, au moins pour le moment, porter
secours k Muanga et aux Chretiens du Buganda comme nous
I'esperions.
" Le roi Muanga m'avait charge de vous ^crire en son nom
FATHER LOURDEL'S LETTER. 319
la lettre Kiswahili que je vous ai envoyee, lorsqu'il n'aTait pas
encore appris la nouvelle de la defaite de son armee. Ayant ete
force de se refugier dans I'ile de Bulinguge il demande ,
Ijflt'tfll' of
plus que jamais votre secours avec instance. En Pere
recompense outre le monopole du commerce dans le ^°'"'**^'
Buganda, il vous offre comme cadeau cent brasilas d'ivoire,
(=3,500 Pfd.), qu'il vous donnera, lorsqu'il sera remis sur le
trone. II se charge aussi de la nourriture de vos hommes et
accepte votre drapeau. Pour nous missionaires catholiques,
nous serous tres-heureux et tres-reconnaissants de profiter de
la protection, que vous pourrez, je I'espere, accorder aux mis-
sionaires et Chretiens de ce pays, si vous parvenez k chasser
les musulmans. Veuillez avoir la bonte de presenter mes
salutations empressees a vos intrepides compagnons de
route. Je prie Dieu de continuer k henir et favoriser votre
entreprise.
" Daignez agreer. Men cher Monsieur, I'expression de mes
sentiments de profond respect et de ma parfaite consideration,
avec lesquels j'ai I'honneur d'etre, votre tres humble serviteur,
" Simeon Louedel,
'• Premier Catholique dans le Buganda."
(TRANSLATION.)
" Very dear Sir, — We have heard with pain that you could
not come, at least not at present, to bring assistance to Muanga
and to the Christians of Buganda, as we hoped you would.
" King Muanga had charged me to write to you, in his
name, the Kiswahili letter I have sent to you, when he had
NOT YET RECEIVED THE NEV7S OP THE DEFEAT OF HIS ARMY.
Having been forced to take refuge in the island of Bulinguge,
he more than ever urgently asks your assistance. In return,
besides the monopoly of commerce in Buganda, he offers you,
as a present, a hundred pasilas of ivory (equal to 3,500 lbs.),
which he will give you when he is restored to the Translation
throne. He also takes upon himself the provisioning lourders
of your men, and accepts your flag. For our part, we ^®"*'^-
Catholic missionaries shall be very glad and very grateful to
320 XI'JW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
take advantage of the protection which you will be able, I hope,
to grant to the missionaries and Christians of this country, if
you succeed in driving out the Mussulmans. Have the kindness
to present my special greetings to the intrepid companions of
your journey. I pray God to continue to bless and favour your
enterprise.
"Deign to accept, very dear Sir, the expression of my
sentiments of profound respect and perfect consideration, with
which I have the honour to be, your very humble servant,
" Simeon Lourdel,
" First Catholic in Buganda."
So far, including the knowledge that the English, upon such
information, were gone, not into this disagreeable Uganda, but
elephant hunting to the north, did my own information in
Kawirondo extend.
I have here related these facts, accepting the danger of
incurring suspicion of having violated the secrecy of letters
in Kawirondo ; but I hope such a reproach will be considered
unjustified. In the first place, it is not a question of opening
letters, on my part, but of documents which were laid before
me by the acting official chief of the English station, with the
Reasons Observation that he knew that " my brethren," his
the'^doou"^ masters, would be glad to communicate all these facts,
ments. g^^jj further information also, to me, if they were on
the spot, and with the express permission to take copies of
them. Secondly, my position must be taken into account —
the responsibility I bore with regard to the expedition and
my people, which made it my simple duty to gain all the
knowledge I could in any way acquire with regard to the lands
that lay before us.
After I had thus, in general, found where I was, I had the
Wasoga, who had carried the last Uganda post into the English
camp, brought before me, to question them at large.
" You are Wasoga. Who has sent you hither ? "
" We are compelled by the Waganda to show them the way
to the English camp in Kawirondo."
INFORMATION CONCERNING USOGA. 321
" What news have you from Uganda ? Who is the master
there ? "
" In Uganda there is war. A little while ago Muanga had
beaten the Arabs ; but at last Karema was king conversa-
again, and Muanga and his people had fled to **"" ''"^
^T . 1 1 „ '■ ^ the Waso-
the islands. gamen.
"What kind of country is Usoga.P Do you belong to
Uganda, or have you chiefs of your own ? "
" We have chiefs of our own, but they are all subject to the
Kabaka of Uganda."
"Are strangers allowed to travel through Usoga without
permission from the Kabaka of Uganda ? "
" If a stranger comes to Usoga our sultans have to report
to the Mfalme * of Uganda."
" Is there food in Usoga ? "
"Food, as the sand by the sea," and they went through the
movement of heaping up sand in both hands.
" What kind of food ? "
" Bananas, grain, and flesh of all kinds."
"Do the Wasoga love the whites, or do they make war
upon them ? "
" The Wasoga love the whites, but they must do what the
Waganda tell them."
" Are there Waganda in Usoga ? "
" Yes ; they come every year to get tribute from thence,
and now many of them are there who have fled from the war
in Uganda."
" Do the Wasoga belong to Muanga's party, or do they hold
with Karema ? "
"Muanga is the Mfalme of Uganda, and Karema is only a
wicked man, who makes war upon him."
" Now 1 want to know, what is the Kisogo for a quantity of
words from the Kiswahili language."
* Kabaka or Mfalme is the title of the King of Uganda. I conjecture
that Kabaka is a Bantu word, while Mfalme is perhaps of Semitic origin.
The title Kabaka is evidently the same as the Kaba in the title of King
Kaba Eega of Unjoro.
21
322
iY7?ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
I noted down a number of words, which show that the
language of the "Wasoga is maiulj' of pure Bantu origin : —
English.
Kiswahili.
Kisogo.
Eiswahili
the way
ndjia
njola
and Kisogo
goes
anakwenda
elegenda
languages.
where ?
wapi?
ekuba ?
to the Turks
qua Turki
kubo Turki
want corn
nataka veri veri
dsagga limere.
water
madji
madsi
fowl
kuku
koko
eggs
majai
magi
milk
masnia
amata
forward
twende
tugende
I want
nataka
ndgale
a guide
kiongosi kwa
munlu (man
wakuntare
to TJnjoro
TJnjoro
TJnjoro
slowly
pole pole
genan pole
give
nipe
npa.
Twhahili)
I then sent for the Sultan and his suite, and asked him, —
" Do you know a country called Unjoro ? "
He pointed in a north-westerly direction.
" Are the Wangoro your friends or your enemies ? "
" The Wangoro are our friends ; the Waganda our
enemies."
" If you want to march to Unjoro, must you pass through
Usogo or Uganda ? "
" No ; if we want to go to Unjoro we have to go by way of
Kwa Telessa. From thence we go to Akore or Akola, and
thence direct to Unjoro. It takes four days to reach Akore, and
another four days to get from there to the Nile, at Unjoro, and
one day to cross the Nile ; so that we have a nine days' march
to Unjoro from this place."
" Have you much intercourse with the Wangoro ? "
"Yes; the Wangoro come to Kwa Telessa, and bring us.
powder and ammunition. We take cattle and corn to them,
and receive powder in exchange."
" Is Kwa Telessa a large place ? "
GUIDES FOR KWA TELE8SA. 323
"Kwa Telessa is a large town, and there you hear news
rom all the countries of the west."
" Can you give me guides to Telessa ? "
"Certainly; I am your friend, and you may command
here. If you want guides to Telessa I will give you them."
" How many days' march is it from here to Kwa Telessa P "
" We sleep the first day in Kwa Tindi, the second in Kwa
Surga, and the third day we reach Kwa Telessa." informa-
" What sort of people live in these countries ? " Kwa^'""''
" The Walukuma live there." ™«s^-
" Are you friendly with them, or do you live at war with
them.P"
" The Walukuma are our friends ; hut close to them live
the Walunda. They are very bad people, and with them we
are at war."
" Then when I march to Kwa Telessa, and from there to
Unjoro, I have no need to go by way either of Usoga or
Uganda ? "
" No. You leave those countries to your left, and you go
straight to Unjoro."
" Then get me some guides to Kwa Telessa. To-morrow I
shall remain here, and the next day I shall march from here to
Unjoro. When I come back I will beat your Mangati* for you."
The next day the negotiations were continued, and the final
result of them all was that I engaged three guides (Gasia,
Amoquaja, and Waschitoba) to lead us to Kwa Telessa.
February 3rd was one of the most unsatisfactory days of
the whole expedition. I had certainly the pleasure of seeing
Herr von Tiedemann completely restored to health ; but an in-
cident occurred on this day which threatened to upset all my
plans for the future, and forced upon me, to my dismay, the
conviction that I was by no means so absolutely sure of my
own followers as I had supposed already. In the morning Ali
Somal came to me, with Hussein, endeavouring to persuade me
not to undertake the march towards the west. " The Doctor is
* I afterwards came to be of opinion that a confusion between Wangoro
and Wachoro was involved in this information of the Sultan's.
324 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
very fiery, is the universal opinion," they told me ; " he is not
afraid, but he will lead us all to destruction." " Pray wait
here," added Ali Somal, " till Mr. Jackson and his three gentle-
men come back with our people. Then you can all take counsel
together, and I know that Mr. Jackson will be very glad to carry
out a plan in concert with you."
" But Mr. Jackson has already been lying here for more than
four months, and you told me yesterday that so soon
sou's pro- as he returned from the north he would march back
ee mga. ^^ ^^^ coast. How cau you say that he will be glad
to carry out a plan in concert with me ? "
" Mr. Jackson would have been only too glad to go to Uganda
himself, but he was afraid to do so because of the uncertainty
in the whole state of affairs. If he sees that you are determined
to advance, he will probably attach himself to you."
" Well, then it would, after all, be better for me to go on
first and see if the roads are safe. Then I will write to Mr.
Jackson, and I shall be glad if he will follow me."
" I cannot decide as to that," said Ali Somal ; " but I
should like to save the lives of my brethren, the Somali, who
all say you are too fiery, and would rather wait here than go
on with you at once."
" Is that true P " I asked of Hussein.
" Yes, sir. I will gladly go with you, to die with you ; but
the others think you ought rather to wait here. They are tired
of carrying on war every day."
" Well, then, go and tell your people that I have heard your
words. I thought I had men and soldiers with me, but I see
now that such does not seem to be the case. Tell the Somalis,
that to each one among them who may prefer to stay here with
the English I will give permission to do so, and that I do not
mean, either, to deduct anything from the pay which they have
earned until now. But tell them also that I shall know, by
the decision which each man comes to, whether we Germans
have been deceived in the Somalis or not. And ask them what
report of your brethren I am accordingly to give some day in
Aden."
DEBATE Wrrn the SO-VALIS.
325
" Very good, sir."
Hussein went a^Yaj, and returned in an hour with the answer
that the Somalis thought that, from my having asked them
whether they wished to stay behind, they might assume that I
had no further need of them. Accordingly, they asked per-
mission that all of them might remain here.
"Hussein, do you want to stay here, too.P"
HussEix, Leader of the Somalis.
"No, sir. I should like to go with you, but I should like
the other Somalis to come too."
" Well, then, call your people together for a conference
with me."
Thereupon the Somalis appeared before my tent, and I spoke
to them to the following efl'ect : —
" You know that I had you all engaged in Aden, to go with
]ne in search of a great German who rules in the land of the
Turki. We marched together up the Tana, where the English
Expedition was forced to turn back, and we reached Bariugo
326 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
sooner than they did. We are the men who vanquished the
haughty Massais of Leikipia, and every tribe that tried to stop
our march we have overthrown. Did you ever, during this
expedition, hear any resolutions come to by me which resulted
in placing our lives in danger ? Have I not, up to this point,
always brought you safely through every difficulty ? "
" You speak the truth, sir."
" Have we not always had food in plenty ? Have I not led
you through countries where there was neither road nor track,
and where I could only find the direction from books ? "
" It is true, sir."
" Do you not believe that your lives are as precious to me
as my own, and that if you died I should perish too ? "
"You were always foremost, sir."
" Well, and do you think, then, that I wish to die in this
infernal land of Africa P Do you believe that I would march
Speech to iito couutries where a certain death is awaiting us ?
the somahs. ^^^ ^^ y^^ ^^q^ think that if I now move westward,
in spite of all, I must have information which is better than
all that you hear about it ? I have read the great letters that
Ali Somal has given me, and I know as well as he does that
we are no longer able to make war in the countries that we are
now going to enter. But do you not know that I am able, if
I please, also to make peace, as I did with the Gallas and at
Lake Baringo ? W^ell, what do you say ? "
Musa Somal answered, " Sir, when Hussein asked this
morning whether we would stay here or go with you, we thought
you M'ere tired of us, and wished to go forward without the
Somalis. But now that we hear that you still love your
Somalis, and will be, as ever, father and mother to them, we
cannot forsake you, and we will go forward and die with you."
" What are you talking about dying for ? I have just told
you I have no intention of dying here. We are all of us in
God's hand. If it is Allah's will, we shall die, whether it be
here or in any other place. But if such is not His will, we shall
not die, wherever we go."
A murmur of assent greeted this remark, and I continued,
DR. PETER'S DECLARATION TO THE SO.VALLS.
327
" So now, then, I will tell you what my plans are. There is a
route from here to Emin Pasha which leaves Usoga and Uiianda
on the left hand, and leads direct to Unjoro. In Unjoro there
is a kins:;, Kaba Rega, who was formerly Emin's friend, and with
whom I hope to make friends. If I succeed, and receive inform-
Shauei with the Somali Soldiers.
ation to that effect, I shall cross the Nile at a place c;dled
Mruli. If I do not succeed, we shall march along the right side
of the Nile d(jwn to Fauvera, one of Emin's stations. If we
march well we can get to the Nile in nine days, and after that
God will help us. And now go, soldiers of the Sonialis, and
ponder the words which you have heard."
328 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Meamvhile the bearers had got wind of what was going on
among the Somalis ; and thereupon thej^ too held a meeting, and
sent a deputation to the Somalis with the message, " If you do
not wish to go any farther with Kupanda Sharo we shall not
go either. Let us know what you have decided to do."
To this the Somalis replied, "We are Somalis, and you
bearers are different people. We obey the commands of our
The Somalis cMef, and if you are not willing to do so we shall fight
reply. against you at his command, and shoot down every
man who runs away." This answer was confirmed to me after-
wards by Musa, the headman of the bearers from Dar-es-Salam,
who had headed the deputation.
The plan which I had laid before the Somalis was the result
of information of different kinds which I had received in Kwa
Sundu, and was based upon the repeated assurances of Ali Somal,
that Emin Pasha had remained alone in his province. In this
case it was of course impossible to neglect any chance or
refuse any effort to reach him, and I was firmly resolved once
more to stake all for this purpose. Any other decision would
have seemed to me as futile as if I had received the commission
Dr. Peter's to explore the interior of Vesuvius, and after collecting
decision, everything necessary for the purpose, had proceeded
to the edge of the crater, and then faced about, and returned
home with my report, " It cannot be done ! "
After the communication from Uganda I was obliged to
desist from passing through that country, because by so doing I
should have needlessly increased the risk twofold ; and if I were
successful in crossing Uganda alive, the dangers in Unjoro
would not be diminished in the least.
On the other hand, I was able to hope that, if I had the good
fortune of falling in with Emin Pasha I might, together with
him, take into consideration what was possible to be done for
the Christians in Uganda. It was evident that we should have to
make the question of Uganda our first subject of deliberation,
because it comprised within itself the quickest possibility of
procuring ammunition for the Pasha. The plan of my farther
advance, which I decided to put into execution on the following
THE MARCH FROM KWA SUNDU. 329
morning, was framed to suit these considerations. There
was no object now in our remaining any longer in ^
Kawirondo. Our doing so would simply waste the for the
stores of the expedition for no purpose, and weaken the ®""°"-
spirit of my people. And, in the last place, I should have
rendered myself completely independent of the English.
Nevertheless, since it was impossible to foresee the result of
the advance, Herr von Tiedemann and I resolved to leave behind
our letters and reports at the English station, to be forwarded to
the coast for Europe ; a fatal resolution, which had for its result
the loss of the whole packet. Exactly the same fate befell
me with respect to all the letters sent to me at Zanzibar
by the English mail. " Horse and horseman saw we never
more ! " As it seemed to me desirable, if it was in any way
possible, to secure the stores of ammunition collected by
the English for Emin Pasha, I left a letter for Mr. Jackson
at his station, in which I informed him of my march in
the direction of Uganda, and offered him my friendly co-
operation. I promised to keep him constantly au courant
of the characteristics of the route, and hoped that he would
then decide, in the interests of civilisation and humanity, to
follow me with his expedition into the Equatorial Province, in
order to work in union with me for the relief of Emin Pasha.
At sunrise on February 4th I marched out of the English
station at Kwa Sundu with beat of drum. I had previously tried
to make it clear to the Sultan and his relations, that they would
do better not to bring into play the intrigues and faithlessness
of the black races, of which all travellers complain. As I was
preparing to depart the guides declared, all at once, Faituess
that they did not wish to go with me to-day ; and ^'^**'-
when I urged them to fulfil the engagement into which they
had entered with me, I was again treated to the dogged
"A-a-a-a!" which I have already described.
A few well-directed blows distributed among the whole
population and the English intimated delicately to the Sultan
and his family that this behaviour was not to be tolerated by us.
But it was not until I had threatened to burn the place over
330 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
their heads that the}' resohed to undertake the guiding of our
part}', for which I had already paid them on the previous day.
On this morning I was in an especially irritable frame of
mind, because I had been told that one of my Somalis, named
Ismael Ali, had deserted. This could only have been possible if
either the English garrison or the native population had con-
nived at it. But we had something better to do than to stay
here; looking after a deserter, and so at about six o'clock we
. ^, started off in the direction of the north-west. At seven
On tlie
march o'clock we crossed, with some trouble, the stony river
Nsoia, which flows into the Victoria Nyanza below Kwa
Sundu, after draining the Angata na Nyuki.
The Wakawirondo, under the protection of our dreaded
expedition, pressed forward with their herds to the river, to
seek the pasture -ground on the opposite bank, which they had
formerly avoided out of fear of the western tribes.
The Nsoia is very swift in this place, and the crossing
was attended with great difficulty. Again and again some of
my cattle were carried down stream, and had to be recaptured
with much trouble. By nine o'clock all were on the right bank,
and now our way lay onward into the distant unknown West.
The scenery through which we marched presented, indeed,
a dreary spectacle. Everywhere ruined plantations and burned
or half-burned villages. The Mangati had been "at work"
here, and if up to this morning I had been rather angry with
myself for having allowed myself to be drawn in to take part in
the fight against them, I now rejoiced at having for once given
these robbers and bandits a well-merited lesson.
So we went on for six hours through long stretches of hill
Through districts. The mountains which shut in Kawirondo
thehius. -^ ^jjg gj^g^ ^^^ Samia in the north, lay extended
before us in a south-westerly direction.
At about three o'clock in the afternoon we reached their
north-eastern spurs, and here I set up the camp by the little
river Manieni, which flows into the Victoria Nyanza about
three miles to the west of Nsoia.
The landscape here puts on a somewhat fresher character.
EMBASSY FR02I SULTAN TINDI. 331
We found ourselves again in inhabited districts and among
kraals, which were surrounded by fields of grain.
This was the country of Kwa Tindi, that is to say, of the
Sultan Tindi, who rules over the western part of Kawirondo.
No white man had ever been here before us, but the natives had
heard of us, and the women, including the naked daughters
of Kawirondo and the Massai women, who are clothed up
to the neck, soon crowded round my expedition, offering for
sale fire -wood and provisions of all kinds. Moreover, the
Sultan Tindi had no sooner heard of our arrival, than he
sent messengers to me from his capital, which lay about a mile
away to the westward, with the reproachful question, " Why do
you set up your camp so far from my capital ? Why do you
not come to me, who would so gladly be your friend ? "
I answered the messenger, —
" Tell your sultan that my people are too tired to be able
to march as far as Kwa Tindi to-night. For all that, the
sultan may be assured that I have come into his Message to
country with intentions wholly pacific. To-morrow I *^^ ^""*"-
intend to pass through his land toward the west. Ask your
lord whether I can do so in peace, or whether he prefers to
measure his strength with us in war."
"Tindi desires your friendship, but we hasten to carry
your words to him."
In an hour and a half, towards evening, they came back.
" The sultan bids us say. Why does the great white man,
who has beaten the Massais, our enemies, and the Mangati,
who plunder our villages, speak to me of war ? I and my land
belong to him, and I only wish that he would come to-morrow
and set up his tent in my capital. We will give him all he
desires, and show him every honour which is his due."
I replied to the messenger, —
" Tell your sultan that I have heard his words of peace, and
received them as such. To-morrow I shall march by his capital,
because I am going on farther to Unjoro, but when I come
back, then I will stay with him, and we will exchange gifts of
friendship."
332 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
On the evening of this day I was again to have an oppor-
tunit}' of learning from ocular demonstration more about the
" settled " condition of this district. I had just lain down in
bed, when all at once a diabolical row broke out in the kraal
that lies ten minutes' walk to the east of our camp, and by
which we had marched in the afternoon. Horns, drums, pipes,
shrieking, and wild howling clashed together in a chaos of
sound. From time to time there came a pause ; but then the
tumult broke out with renewed violence. I called my sentry
Attack on i^to the tent, and asked what was the matter. He
the kraal, ijrought the guides from Kawirondo to me, and from
these I learned that robber bands from Elgumi had just attacked
the kraal, and that its defenders were now fighting.
"That is what Tindi's Massais say," they told me; "they
are just gone by to beat back the Waelgumi."
I sent for Hussein, and bade him give out about a hundred
cartridges for my people immediately. The danger to our
camp was twofold. It was possible that the Wakawirondo, in
case they were defeated, would flee to us, and that so we should
be involved in the struggle ; or, on the other hand, that the Wa-
elgumi, even if this did not occur, might attack us in the mere
wantonness of their victory. It is significant of the indiffer-
ence with which we were all of us accustomed by this time to
regard such possibilities, that we all stayed quietly in bed. Not
until the noise broke out on the other side of the kraal and in
the immediate vicinity of our camp did I get up, put my guns
in order, light my pipe, and sit down in my armchair in front
of my tent. I sent to beg Lieutenant von Tiedemann to join
me, and we had, from ten o'clock to one in the morning, the
curious experience of being able to observe, at least as far as
the sound is concerned, a battle between natives close at hand.
The moon shone bright above the scene, the crickets chirped,
frogs croaked in the brook below, and man alone demonstrated
The comba- his likeness to his Maker by the tumult and cries of
tive natives, p^^j^ which Continually clashed upon our ears, amid
the sweet peacefulness of nature.
Towards one o'clock the Massais, who were in the pay of
THE EXPEDITION PASSES KWA TINDI. 333
Tindi, advanced to their attack, and gradually the din of battle
died away in the north, where, however, the natives were still
awake, and received their retreating friends with cries and yells.
The whole aifair passed away like a vision, and once more
the earth lay at our feet in softest repose and deepest peace
under the floods of moonlight. My people had paid so little
attention to the whole transaction, that they peacefully snored
all round us during all the noise of the warfare.
At dawn on the following day I gave orders for the trumpet
to call the march out, and we started at once in the direction of
the north-west. A little after six o'clock we crossed the Sio,
and towards seven we reached Kwa Tindi. The town is pic-
turesquely situated on a height, between basalt rocks. It is
surrounded by a strong wall of red stone and a deep
FfliT tic 111 Sirs
dike ; the gates boldly and picturesquely arched, and concerning
connected by dams with the outer world. As soon ^''""''^'^y-
as we approached any village the drummer had orders always
to beat a tattoo, and in this manner Ave passed by Kwa Tindi.
The population streamed out of the gate in crowds to stare at
us, and I thought I saw among the throng the Sultan himself,
with his retinue, recognisable by his ornaments. However, I
did not choose to make an)'^ demonstration of greeting. At a
short distance I passed by the town, and soon the whole scene
lay behind us like a Fata Morgana. We now crossed two more
streams, tributaries of the Sio, one of which is named Nogombe.
When we had passed the latter the guides suddenly turned away
from the north-western to a westerly direction. W^hen I pro-
tested against their doing so they answered, —
" To the north of us live the Walundu, with whom we are at
war. We cannot go thither. But be of good courage, we will
lead you to Kwa Telessa to-morrow by this road."
I asked, " What land lies yonder to the left of us ? "
They said, " That is the land of Samia, and behind it lies
Usoga. We will not bring you there, but to Kwa Telessa,
from where you can go on to Unjoro."
" What is the name of those mountains yonder to the left,
behind which Samia lies P "
334 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
"That is the Fukulu."
" And the mountains here to the right of us, that reach
across from ElgonP"
" That is the Eshekulu."
(KuIk is certainly the same root as the Kiswahili Jcili,
meaning mountain. )
Between these two chains of hills, which we had seen already
from Kwa Sundu, and which from that place looked like one
uninterrupted uniform mountain range to the west of Kawirondo,
we now passed on. There is a gap of from fourteen to eighteen
miles wide between the two, forming a well-cultivated plateau,
still at an elevation of nearly four thousand feet. As the first
white man who ever marched through this gap and explored the
March formation of these mountains, I named the mass of
"^Junker*''* mountains in the south, after our countryman whom we
Kange." were endeavouring to reach, the " Bmin Pasha Moun-
tains ; " while I christened the chain to the north, after his friend
and companion, the "Junker Range." The two ranges have
nothing in common in their formation. The Emin Pasha
Mountains extend in an east and west direction, turning only
their counterslope towards Kawirondo, and belong altogether to
the volcanic girdle of the Victoria Nyanza Lake ; while the
Volcanic Juuker Range is nothing more than the south-westerly
formation. ^^^^. ^^ ^^^ jgjgQ^_ Qf ^^^^^^ ^j^^y ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^
magnificent volcanic system to which the whole plateau, over
which we marched, owes its origin. When, on the morning of
February 5th, I fixed upon these designations, I felt that we
were now indeed entering the regions in which the activity of
these two men was displayed.
Kawirondo now lay behind us, and the landscape gradually
assumed a new character. The doom-palm appeared again, and
the character of the inhabitants themselves gradually appeared
under a new aspect. We marched on over valley and moun-
tain, through stream and swamp, till two o'clock in the
afternoon.
We then reached the great place called Kwa Tunga, also
surrounded by proud walls and with high gates, over which
FORWARD TO KWA TELESSA. 335
appeared gables and roofs, which reminded me, in some degree,
of India. " Habesch ! " cried my Somalis, when the}- March to
came in sight of the place; and when I asked them ^'^^ ^""sa.
what they meant by that, they said, " Just like those of Kwa
Tunga are the villages of Abyssinia built."
Kwa Tunga lies exactly to the north of the Bmin Pasha
Mountains, and marks almost the centre of the chain. I set up
my camp by the southern ramparts of the town, opposite the
mountain range which I had before my eyes all the afternoon.
Below the hill on which the place and my camp were situated
flows a little brook. The air was as clear and pure as . ,
. ^ Fnendh-
on an August day m Germany. Our relations with ness of the
the natives were of a friendly character, and in a ^^°^ *'
hopeful and joyous mood we spent the afternoon and evening.
Although we had food in plenty, one of my bearers deserted
on the following morning, with his wife. Uganda, in fact, still
rose before my people as a menacing phantom of terror.
On this day we marched on again, in a west-north-westerly
direction, towards Kwa Telessa. The aspect of the country
became more and more cultivated and fertile along the „ , .
" March to
green slopes. Village after village appeared, with large Kwa
herds of oxen and flocks of sheep pasturing. The
natives were very demonstrative in their friendliness. Our
guides had only to tell them that we were the people who had
beaten the Massais and the Mangati, to call forth stormy
salvos of applause from them.
The method of salutation here is by snapping with the thumb
and forefinger, which, when it is done by large numbers of men
together, has a very pleasing and attractive sound.
Whenever we passed by a kraal, the women and girls came
out to bring us water and steaming batatas. The way these
Walukuma fortify their villages is peculiar. The clay wall, such
as is seen even at Kwa Tunga, now disappears, and in its place
great enclosures of cactus are made, which surround the Mhole
place to a height of from eight to twelve yards ; a defence equally
tasteful and efficacious. At one o'clock we reached Kwa Telessa.
This place is surrounded by a thick growing hedge, and lies
336 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
completely hidden in a grove of bananas, within which the huts
Description are picturesquely grouped. More and more we began
of the town. ^^ realise that we were in Central Africa. Kwa Telessa
was the first place to which the description of the Seribas of
Central Africa, written by Emin Pasha and Schweinfurth, applied.
At the same time we made our first acquaintance with the dress
materials of Uganda, namely, the brown bark of the wild fig-
tree, woven into a kind of cloth. The dialect itself was different ;
and already among the sounds which we had heard at Kawirondo
were blended the more indistinct accents of Uganda.
We pitched our tents under a mighty cotton-tree, inside
the hedge rampart of the place, while the men were quartered
in the neighbouring huts in the shade of the banana trees.
Readily and amicably the natives came forward. When, after
my arrival, I was taking a short rest, reclining in my arm-chair,
my attention was suddenly aroused by a tittering at the door
ladies of ^t the back of my tent. I turned round, and saw,
the country, standing there, three really charming young girls, in
dresses of red stuff", and adorned with beads, who, as soon as
I turned my head towards them, greeted me almost roguishly
with the usual snap of the fingers. The girls, in their demeanour,
reminded me in some degree of European young ladies.
There was food to be had here in abundance, and presently
the Sultan Telessa came from a neighbouring plantation to
Visit of greet me — an old man, looking much like a German
Telessa. Qf Lower Saxouy, with square-cut broad features,
which, however, bore the stamp of very considerable strength
of will.
Telessa and his suite crowded in front of my tent, while he
examined me Avith unfeigned astonishment, but with a certain
reserve that spoke of tact.
"Peace be with you," was my greeting to him. "I rejoice
to be in Telessa's country. I have heard of you already in
Kawirondo, and have come here to make your acquaintance
and receive from you information about the lands to the west."
"Let the Msurgu (white man) ask what he desires to
know."
AN INTERVIEW WITH TELESSA. 337
" I wish to know whether you have any acquaintance with
the country to the west. Do you know Unjoro and its king
Kaba Rega P "
" The Wanjoro I know, but Kaba Rega I do not know."
" Do you know the great river in the west, the Nile, which
the people here call Kyira ?"
" I know the Kyira well. The children of my concerning
people often travel thither." "''^"'•
" And how many days' journey is it from here to Kyira ? "
" Five days. In how many days have you come here from
Kwa Sundu ? "
" In three days."
"Then you have still five da}rs' journey to reach the
Nile."
" And how far is it to the Wanjoro ? "
"To the Wanjoro you will come in four days from here."
"Have you any news of white men who live in Wanjoro ? ''
" Oh, yes, I have news of that kind. Two great white men
live there, who possess many soldiers and great houses.
One of my people has been for a long time in the p wan-
service of the white men." ■'"°'
"Are the soldiers of these white men Turki, or what kind
of men are they P "
" I think they are Turki. But my man will be able to tell
you all this better than I."
" Is this man to be found here in Kwa Telessa ? "
" He lives not far from here."
" Then send to him, and bid him come, and let him know
that I have rich presents for him. This evening, ^^^ ^^_
when the sun sinks in the west, come back with him, quiry ad-
a.nd then we will hold a further Shauri concerning the "'""'^'^^ '
business."
I was determined to tarry the next day in Telessa, to
collect all the information which was to be had in the place.
Although I was not inclined to put faith in the signs which
.seemed to open out before me, yet it was evident that before I
went further I must, with especial vigilance, study my position
338 ^Y/:;ir LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
again and again with regard to the circumstances of the case,
that I might not lead my column hlindly to destruction.
In the evening Telessa returned, and we began by ex-
second changing the usual gifts in sign of friendship. He
m Mview ijj.Q^gj^^ cattle, eggs, and milk, honey, and bananas,
Telessa. while I presented him with bright coloured stuffs, a
little powder, and some beads.
" Well, have you brought the man with you who was in the
service of the white men at Unjoro ? "
" I have sent to him, but he will not be able to be here till
to-morrow morning."
" So you know for certain that there are white men living
in Unjoro ? "
" I am as sure of it, as I am of the fact that we are here
together."
" And do you also know the place where they live ? "
"Yes, I know it well. They have a large house, and
manjf, many people."
" Then I daresay you will be willing to forward a letter
Concern- ^^°°^ "^^ *° t\ie&e white men, if I pay your messengers,
ing the and give you some more presents for yourself ? "
white men. . ^ •'
"I Will very gladly do that, and you can wait
here for the answer, to see whether I speak the truth, or am
lying."
" And in how many days do you think the messengers can
be back here ? "
"In three days they can be here again from the white
man."
" Well, then, I will tell 5^ou what. Give me messengers
who can carry my letters in advance, and give me guides who^
Proposal '^^^^^ conduct me, by the same road, after them. Then
Peters *^*^ messengers, in returning, will meet me on the way,
so that I can receive their news from them on my
journey. If the white man is so near, I shall soon be back
here with you, and then we will exchange more presents with
each other. You shall have my flag, and we will make a last-
ing friendship."
QUESTION OF EMIN'S WHEREABOUTS. 33»
" I will gladly take }-our flag, for I know that you have
beaten the Massais. Two years ago the Massais came as far
as here, and drove away my cattle."
" Good ; then, to-morrow, do what I have commissioned
you to do."
A lively snapping of fingers, from the assembled people,,
showed with what satisfaction the conclusion of our agreement
was received by the multitude.
On the following morning, at seven o'clock, there was.
another great assembly of the people. The mysterious servant
of the white men of Unioro was certainly not yet „ ,
<* J J Telessa's
there ; but Telessa had brought two messengers who, two mes-
he said, knew the way thoroughly, and would carry ^^'^^^'^^^
my letters forward. I drew up two documents, therefore, in
presence of the large circle of people, and these were de-
spatched in the course of the same morning. I was not at
all inclined to apply to Emin Pasha the news which Telessa.
brought ; nevertheless there might be some trace given in this
direction.
When Emin Pasha received news of Dr. Fischer's advance,,
as he himself relates, he pushed forward his troops to g^^-g^
Mruli. Might he not now, after Stanley's departure, tures about
have heard rumours of the approach of East African
Relief Expeditions, and might he not be working to establish
communication with them in that direction by means of
advanced posts .P
Accordingly, since I could not take for granted that Emin
Pasha himself was to be found here in the east, but at most
could only conjecture that Casati, or some Egyptian officers,
might be there, I wrote the following letter in English and in
French : —
" February 1th, 1890.
" To any gentleman, or any official of His Excellency
Dr. Emin Pasha, who is stationed in Unjoro.
" On my arrival yesterday in Kwa Telessa, on my way ta
His Excellency Dr. Emin Pasha, I received the news that a
340 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
European was in East Unjoro. If such is the case I shall be
ixperi- much obliged for some brief particulars. I shall
Telter\t despatch this letter to-da}^ and follow on the same
Dr. Peters. j^-Qg^^j ^y^^]^ ^y gmall expedition to-morrow. An answer
Avill find me on the route by which this letter has come.
" This answer will greatly oblige,
" De. Carl Peters."
When this letter had been sent off, I dismissed my guides
from Kwa Sundu, by whom I sent the news of the incidents of
our advance, to the gentlemen of the English expedition, and
to whom also I gave a letter for Messrs. Hansing & Co., in
Zanzibar.
In the course of the day, my people were again disquieted
_. . by news of dangers of war in the west. The Walandu,
Iisquiet- ./ o 7
ingru- it was Said, were makmg the passage towards the
north-west impossible.
My people seemed to have changed altogether. They were
thoroughly infected by the apprehensions that reigned in the
ranks of the English expedition. It was as though the band-
ages had been suddenly torn away from their eyes, and they
now saw on the edge of what a precipice they were walking in
my company.
They forgot that the path, up to this time, had not been
exactly a safe one. To guard against further desertions, I called
Tendency them together in the evening, took their guns from
to desertion.^jjgjjj^ and once again put the suspicious characters
among them in chains.
In spite of this I was informed, on the following morning,
that one of them had run back to Kawirondo.
On the following morning I had, first of all, the usual ex-
planation with Telessa, who had no intention of fulfilling his
promise of furnishing me with guides, but who was induced to
March perform his duty by the usual arguments. Then we
towards began our march westward, along a chain of heights
M'hich rose before us, lying in a north to south direc-
tion, exactly under the thirty-fourth degree of east longitude as
MARCH TO THE WISSMANN HILLS;— A STRANGER. 341
far as one degree north of the lake. I ordered the guides to lead
us to the northern end of this chain of mountains ; but they
explained that it could not be done, for fighting was going on
there ; we should all be killed if we marched that way. It
was a fact that, during our march, we had repeatedly heard the
noise of fighting to the north of us ; and in consideration for the
demoralised state of my people, I consented to cross the hills in
front of us, a little below the northern end. These hills, which
formed the boundary of Usoga proper in the east, I The "wiss-
have named " Wissmann Hills." Where they are ap- ™annHuis."
proached from the east they present a precipitous and steep
aspect, but on nearing them, it is found that the ascent is a
very easy one. In reality it is accomplished almost imper-
ceptibly, through groves of bananas and other plantations.
The next day was an unpleasant one for me, for my people
repeatedly pressed me to stay in Kwa Telessa until the answer
came to the letters I had sent forward the day before to Emin
Pasha, before travelling further into a region of uncertainty. I
concluded the matter by decidedly forbidding any interference
with my leadership of the expedition ; and so we went on, past
crowds of people, who also warned us against going further
towards the Wissmann Hills. When we had nearly reached
the foot of these hills, Herr von Tiedemann suddenly gave the
trumpet signal to halt. I was eager to know what could have
happened, when all at once I saw a handsomely-dressed ^
youne man, with a small suite, likewise of stately terious
• 111 rni visitor.
appearance, hastening to me along the column. Ine
young man was dressed in a dark Arab kaftan, embroidered with
gold, and wore a red turban. When he came up to me he fell
on the ground before me and kissed my feet. We were unable
to make out in the least who he was, or what he wanted ; but he
immediately placed himself at the head of my train, drew out a
flute, and led the way, playing at the same time, sometimes in
pathetic, sometimes in strange, quaint, short melodies, which
his followers accompanied with rhythmical, peculiar kind of
singing. In this way we went on through very bare country,
along Minding paths, in a south-easterly direction. There was
342 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
something mysterious in the whole occurrence. The young
stranger seemed to me like the prince in a fairy tale, who had
come to lead us to his castle, and my fancy was excited to
penetrate the secret of his appearance. The idea began sud-
denly to awake in me that this might have some connection
with the object of my expedition, and that some decided explana-
tions lay before me in this direction.
When we reached the crest of the Wissmann Hills the whole
character of the landscape changed on a sudden, as in a fairy
tale. Emerging from the steppe, which for three hours had
A. region surrounded us, we at once passed into a fruitful, culti-
cf plenty, y^ted district. The way led through bananas, and yet
again through bananas ; and this day we noticed, for the first
time, the grey parrot. My people feasted to their hearts' con-
tent on the rich treasures ; and again, as in a fairy tale, we
suddenly found everything at our disposal. The people came
pouring out of the houses, offering us fat quails in little baskets,
and fatted fowls, grain, and fruits. Banana wine was brought
out in great bowls for the drinking of healths, and on all sides
were heard the lively notes of the flute, or the beating of the
fiery drum. Every one bowed low before my mysterious guide,
and I could at once perceive that he was a man in authority in
these parts.
At the western foot of the Wissmann Hills I pitched my
camp and made my toilette, during which my young unknown
friend favoured me with another concert on the flute, when
suddenly two shots resounded from the south, and two new
figures appeared on the scene. These were the Waganda Marco
Marco and and his Companion Talabanga ; and now the veil of
Taiabanga. mystery, which had given a character of excitement to
our encampment, was suddenly to be dropped. Marco was a
man with small features, indicative of unusual intelligence.
Like his companion Talabanga, he was a Roman Catholic Chris-
tian, and both of them spoke Suahili. They had no sooner
taken their seats on the ground before Herr von Tiedemann and
m)'self, than I demanded their names and station. When they
had answered me on this point, I asked, —
PARTICULARS CONCERNING MUANGA. 343
" In what country are we here P "
" We are here in the territory of Muanga, the Mfalme of
Uganda, in Usoga. He yonder " (pointing to my friend of the
morning) "is Mlamba, son of the Sultan Wachore, whose
country, Akola, lies to the north of us, and can be reached in
one day."
" What are you doing here in Usoga ? "
" Muanga, King of Uganda, has sent us to the English in
Kwa Sundu, in Kawirondo, to entreat them to give help to the
Christians ; but the English are afraid, they have ^
' ^ 'J The envoys'
not come. Now we have received intelligence that account of
Badutchi are approaching who have beaten the Massais,
and that is why we have waited for you here. The letters which
you sent yesterday from Kwa Telessa arrived here in the night.
I have sent them on to Muanga."
" Where is Muanga now P "
" Muanga is on Balingogwe, an island on the Lake Victoria
Nyanza. With him there are five white men. Write to him
that you have arrived in Usoga, his country, as is the custom
with the Waganda. Muanga will be glad if you will come to
him."
"I shall be glad to visit Muanga, and glad to help my
Christian brethren in Uganda. But to be able to do this, I
must first of all bring up more assistance, and that is Dr. Peters 's
why I am now marching direct to Unjoro to the chief fo'vuit
of the Turki, who is a German, and a brother of mine. tr^Jo".
I will take counsel with him, and he shall give me more men,
with whom I will then come to the aid of the Christians in
Uganda."
" You want to go to Unjoro P But do you not know
that Kaba Rega is the enemy of the Europeans, and that he
will make war against you ? "
"Yes, but with the help of Emin Pasha I Jhink?I shall be
in a position to get the better of Kaba Rega."
" Emin Pasha P Who is Emin Pasha ? There are no more
white men left in Unjoro. They are all gone away with
Stanley."
344 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
" You are mistaken," I said ; " not all the white men of
Unjoro are gone away with Stanley. The chief of them, Emin
ftnestion of Pasha, has stayed behind. Do you not know Emin
S- P^^ha ? "
abouts. " I speak the truth. All the white men are gone
away, and there is not a white man left in Unjoro (Wiote
wametoka na hapana wasungu Katika Unjolo). Send letters,
and enquire of the white men who are with Muanga. If I am
telling you a lie, take my life."
"But how do you know this.P "
" How should I not know it P Have I not myself been with
Stanley in Busagalla (Ankore), to beg him to give help to the
Christians of Uganda ?
" In his camp I have seen not only his officers, but
also Amdallah and Amdallah's daughter, Emin's white man,
Stanley's ^^^ besides these many, many Turkis. Some time
camp. a,go Amdallah sent to Uganda to buy stuffs from us ;
but the people were set upon and plundered by the Wanjoro, and
he never received the stuffs. That is why he and all his people,
whom I saw with Stanley, were clothed in skins. I have seen
them all ; there is no white man left in Unjoro."
" You exhorted Stanley to bring help to Muanga ? Was not
Stanley willing to do this, then ? "
" No ; he said he must go to the coast. The English are
afraid, and that is why they do not come to Uganda. But, for
Pro osai to J'*^^^ P^^*' ^° ^^^ Write to Muauga before you go farther
write to towards Unjoro. "Write to your white brothers who are
uanga. ^^.^^^ ^^^ king, and they will confirm to you what I have
said. We will march together to Wachore's capital, and you
can wait there till the answer comes. If there is a white man
left in Unjoro, you can go there. If, however, all the white men
are gone from Unjoro, then come and help the Christians in
Uganda, and then, if you will, we can all go together against the
Wanjoro afterwards."
" When can I have the answer from Muanga ? "
" In six or seven days."
" Good ; then I will send letters to Bulingogwe. Now go ; I
STANLEY AND THE WAG AND A. 345
will take into consideration what you have said besides, and give
you my answer this afternoon."
As to this communication of Marco's, I have to remark, that
Stanley's account of the request of the Waganda to send them
help, appears calculated to weaken the importance of the whole
affair. At all events, what he says about it in his book (vol. ii.,
pp. 333-37) does not agree with what I heard confirmed from
another quarter in Uganda. Stanley says nothing at all about
King Muanga's having put himself in communication with him ;
and yet already, on February 13th, Pere Denoit wrote to me as
follows from Bulingogwe : —
" Quant a Emin Pascha, il doit etre arrive en ce moment
k Zanzibar, ou meme en Europe. II etait au sud du ^.^^
Nyanza vers la fin d'Aout. Ilyetait arrive en com- DenoU's
letter
pagnie de Stanley par la route de Ounyoro, Ousagara,
Oucaragwe, etc, sans toucher a I'Ouganda, quoique les Chretiens
de ce pays lappelassent k leur secours."
Thus Pere Denoit says here, then, that the Christians of
Uganda had appealed to Stanley for help ; while Stanley himself
represents the case as if only the, Christians of Ankore Stanley's
had been to him. As Muanga himself told me after- "arch to"
wards, he had sent Marco first to Stanley, with a formal irganda.
petition for assistance, exactly as he sent him afterwards to the
English in Kawirondo. Subsequently, Emin Pasha gave me some
exceedingly interesting details about the story of the refusal of
this petition on the part of Stanley. From what I was told,
Emin Pasha pressed Stanley to grant the Waganda what they
wished, but Stanley immediately became downright angry about
it. " We are much too weak," he declared repeatedly. " You do
not know Uganda, if you think that with our force " (which, by
the way, amounted to 1,000 men) " we could go to Uganda."
Thereupon Emin Pasha offered to undertake the help of the
Waganda Christians by himself with his own people. Stanley
flared up at this, declaring the Pasha had no longer a right to
any such independent action ; he would have him put under super-
vision if he tried to carry out any such plan. He, Stanley, was
responsible for the safe return of the Pasha and his people to the
346 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
coast, and without the command of the Queen of England he
did not choose to mix himself up with the affairs of Uganda.
This information, which Stanley does not give in his account,
certainly throws a substantially new light on the whole of the
New light proceedings. It shows that Stanley did not feel himself
tan™^""^' strong enough to go to Uganda, and he accordingly
events. omitted this remarkable opportunity of drawing this
country into the interests of his own nation. It is the same
blunder which Stanley, in my opinion, repeatedly committed,
and which gives the whole undertaking such a contradictory,
and, to outsiders, such an almost incomprehensible character, to
which I shall on occasion again refer.
Meanwhile I wrote letters to King Muanga in Kiswahili, to
Monseigneur Leon Livinhac in French, and to Messrs. Gordon
and Walter in English. As the contents of the three letters
were identical, I extract the following from the translation of
the letter to Livinhac : —
" MoNSEiGNEUK, — I have the honour to inform you that with
a small expedition I have arrived in the land of the Sultan
Wachore. When I crossed over the boundary of this land your
servant Marco came to me, and told me that the Europeans
letter to whom I supposcd to be in Unjoro were in Uganda, and
neur^Lfou that he had sent my letters for them to you. Besides
Livmhac. ^jjjg^ jjg gg^yg jj^g important information concerning the
departure of Emin Pasha with Stanley for Europe. If this news
is true, my expedition for Emin Pasha is obviously at an end.
" Marco tells me that King Muanga would be much gratified
if we would come into his land. Monseigneur would oblige me
very much by a brief account of the occurrences in the Equa-
torial Provinces, and of the reported departure of Emin Pasha.
If this news is confirmed, and King Muanga invites me, I am
prepared to march to Uganda.
" In case the news of the departure of Emin Pasha is not
confirmed, and you, meanwhile, send me word that the route
through Unjoro is not practicable, I shall still be prepared to
take my route through Uganda."
COMMISSION ENTRUSTED TO MARCO. 347
In my letters to Muanga and the Englishmen I added to
this, that I was ready to place my small force at the offer to
service of civilisation and Christianity, in case the f^lt^^
king requested me to do so. English.
In the afternoon I sent for Marco again, delivered to him
these letters, which were forwarded on the morrow to Uganda,
and imparted to him my decision in the following manner : —
" I have given you these letters, which you are to send to
Uganda. Meanwhile I shall continue my march towards Unjoro,
as far as the north-west boundary of Wachore's land ; Decision
so that in case I receive no satisfactory answer to my oated^o^"
enquiry in Uganda I may be able to resume my ^^^^°-
advance, either on this side of the Nile, or through Unjoro
direct. If it turns out that you have spoken the truth, and if,
as I do not yet believe, Emin Pasha has gone away from the
territory of the Turki, I shall be ready to go to Uganda to
make war against Karema and the Arabs, and to bring back the
Christians, my brethren, to Uganda. Therefore, send messengers
now to Wachore, and inform him that I shall come into his land
to-morrow, and into his capital on the next day, and that I have
already put myself in friendly communication with Muanga,"
A loud joyful clapping of hands was the answer to this
announcement, and my commands were immediately ,
rrn T 1 1 • Approval
put into execution. The more I thought over the m- by the
formation which Marco had brought, the more I was
gradually inclined to disbelieve its accuracy. I conjectured
rather that Amdallah might be one of the Egyptian officers of
Emin Pasha, who had, perhaps, been put in command of a troop
of Egyptian soldiers under Stanley. I thought this all the
more when, in answer to my question, " Who is the chief of
the whole expedition, Stamuley or Amdallah ? " Marco replied,
"Stamuley." This appeared to me scarcely compatible with
M'hat I then imagined to be Emin's position.
A cheerful activity was now displayed in my camp. The
supply of meat and drink was abundant, and the M'hole a festive
evening the Wasoga ran about through the camp Ayith ^"^^^s-
great torches, to light up the drinking, dancing, and playing.
348 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
On the next day we marched onward in a northerly direc-
The march tion, keeping the Wissmann Hills always to the right
resumed, j^aiid. We met large troops of fantastic-looking Wasoga
warriors, who carried tasteful shields of twisted wood, orna-
mented at the sides with monkeys' and other skins. They were
travelling eastward to the war against the Walandu.
On this day another porter ran away from me. I did not
have him pursued, since the fate of the expedition, now depended
on quite other conditions. We went forward through bananas
and richly-cultivated land, until, at eleven o'clock;, we again
pitched our camp in a splendid banana plantation. ,, .;
Our life in Usoga was particularly pleasant. We had guides
for the march, so that I myself was able to walk along
life in in quiet contemplation. When we arrived at any place
^°^^' the natives at once had to turn out of their houses, in
which my people were installed, and plenty of food was at once
brought, without any one thinking of demanding that we should
pay for it.
A farther march brought us southward to the capital of
Wachore, and now, according to the statement of the natives, we
had only three marches, or about six expedition marches, to
bring us to the Lake Kioga, in the Nile. From that place I
could have easily established a communication with Emin
Pasha, supposing that he was in his old stations. I had im-
„ . mediate communication by the river with his stations
Communica- ^ ^^
tion with Kodyi and Fauvera. Amid extraordinary difficulties
the stations. ,^ .
and dangers we had arrived as lar as the borders oi the
Equatorial Province from the east. The question was now,
whether or not fortune, on her side, would vouchsafe us the
reward of so much toil and struggle ?
I had again repeatedly questioned Marco ; but his state-
ments contradicted each other here and there, and so I
encouraged myself to hope afresh that perhaps Emin was, after
all, at Wadelai, and that it would be vouchsafed to me not only
to reach the goal, but to eifect the purpose of the German
Relief Expedition.
If I should meet Emin in Wadelai, I would undertake from
TERRITORY OF USOQA ;—AKOLA. 34'J
thence to put myself in communication with Muanga, and by a
united advance to overthrow Unioro, and so force a free
I" i ,1 -TT- . n.T Further in-
passage tor our countryman across the Victoria Nyanza tentions of
to the German East African coast, from whence assist- ^^' '^**^'^°'
ance could be speedily obtained for him. If this were accom-
plished, we could afterwards, when I had been able to learn
particulars on the spot, examine the Mahdi problem somewhat
closer, to ascertain whether the attempt at least could not be
undertaken to put into execution the plans, which the imagin-
ation of Europe had devised concerning the movements of the
" White Pasha " in the summer of 1888.
Meanwhile I regarded the land and people of Usoga with a
certain increase of interest. This country had been represented
on the map until then as merely a white patch. Before GeograpM-
we came there, no intelligence of any sort concerning farsT/'"™"
it had been brought to Europe by whites ; and yet it is ^^°s^-
well worth while to bring the knowledge of Usoga to the white
world. For this same country is so fertile, and possesses such a
high degree of cultivation, that it is an agreeable surprise for any
one marching here from the east ; and there is no question that
the land promises to be of great importance in the future
development of the dark continent.
Akola forms a portion of the general territory of Usoga, in
which it takes the leading position, through the power and
intelligence of its sultan, Wachore. Usoga appears to extend
l^-" northward from the lake. Its western boundary is formed
by the Nile, which is here called Kiyira, or Nyiro. In the east,
and again to the north-west, the Wissmann Hills form a frontier
against the Walukuma and the Walundu. This whole scenery of
little territory, seen from the top of a hill, resembles a ^^°^'-
billowy sea, the crests of whose waves are scattered by the wind.
The tops of the hills are mostly crowned by rocks or stones.
The journey over the rising ground can be made without any
difficulty, generally lying through banana groves. The whole
hill country is called in Usoga Namakokowa Wachore. The
maximum difference of level between the mountain and
the valley, which stretch out lengthways in an irregular
350 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
direction, maj' be about one hundred and fifty to three hundred
feet.
Not until the western part of Usoga is approached do
decided mountain chains appear, which stretch out from south-
south-west to north-north-east. They cut oif the valley of the
Nile on the east. They have a breadth of some twelve miles,
The hilly ^"^^ exhibit heights of about 5,500 feet. Towards the
region. north they lose themselves in immeasurable distance.
The most southerly, and, as it appeared to me, the most impor-
tant mountain in these chains which rises over the Nile, is
called Ndira Wera (Wera means white. Whether Ndira again
is connected with Kiyira or Nyiro, or whether it simply means
"way," I was not able to discover). I named these border
chains "The Reichart Ranges."
I encamped under the Ndira Wera on February 1 7th, exactly
on the spot where Bishop Hannington and his column were
Eeiics of murdered five and a half years ago. The camping-
nj^lt^^g^'^'ground is some distance to the north-eastward of
party. Ukassa, and we found still a number of skulls and
bones there. Here, on the following day, I visited the N3'anza
for the first time, having had a view the day previous of a far-
reaching creek belonging to it.
Some half-hour s journey from this camping-place there is
a completely enclosed bay of about two square miles in extent,
out of which three long narrow creeks extend landwards. This
bay is connected by a river-like canal with the Nj^anza, and,
j^g indeed, with the farther end of the Napoleon Gulf.
Mapoieoa Fishermen's huts, picturesquely scattered about in the
banana fields, surround the shore. A long hilly ridge,
visible on both sides during several days' march, separates this
bay from the Napoleon Gulf on the west, and lends to it through-
out the character of a large lake. I do not know if Stanley, on
whose camping-ground we slept several times, ever saw this bay.
I do not find it on the maps. Since it is a noticeable feature in
Arendt Bay ^^^ formation of this part of Usoga, I have given it a
name, and I have called it " Arendt Bay," and the hilly
ridge which closes it in to the west " Schroeder"s Mountain."
THE BANANA MEAT AND DRINK.
351
On February ISth we at last encamped on Scliroeder's
Monntain, and were only twelve minutes from Napoleon Gulf,
which I l:)eheld ibr the first time on that day.
This little enclosed country of Usoga, which, in its inland
parts, may be compared to Thuringia, carries on chiefly the cul-
tivation of bananas to a great extent. The banana is „, ,
■- The banana
roasted, baked, boiled, eaten raw, and, above all, drunk ; as food and
and the people have, moreover, various ways of pre-
paring their drinks. The muenge, which resend^les lemonade,
Mount Schroeder and Aeendt Bay.
is prepared by pressing the juice out of the ripe fruit without
fermentation.
Besides this there was a strong, bitter, intoxicating drink,
which the natives simply call pombe, prepared with nitama ;
and still another medium beverage called mritfa, in which the
admixture of mtama is wanting. The Wasoga drink or suck
up this wine, or this beer, from early morning till late at night.
As early as midday my friends, the Sultans, were, as a rule,
in a state of considerable joviality. Besides these variously
352 .YETI' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
prepared bananas, man}^ batatas are eaten, and also various kinds
of grain and pulse.
The countr_Y is likewise rich in cattle, sheep, goats, and all
sorts of poultry. Besides fowls, they eat a very delicate kind of
fat quail, which were brought to us almost daily in little plaited
baskets.
Everywhere we found the Wasoga an amiable, light-hearted
people. Among them the beer-pot is never empty, and day and
night the drum and flute are resounding. With regard to race,
they belong altogether to the Waganda ; a foundation
AppC&r&llCB , 11'' n 1 ••
of the of Bantu, with a strong addition oi north-east immi-
*="ea- gj-a^tion^ iQ which I shall again refer. But they have
softer features, and are undoubtedly among the best-looking
races of East Central Africa. There is, in the expression of
their eyes and the softness of the lines of their faces, something
decidedly feminine ; and it is accordingly the female portion of
the population that attract most attention. Their dress, as
among the Waganda, is usually of red bark-fibre stuff, which is
confined to the waist by a girdle, and covers the whole body ;
but various cotton fabrics have already made their way among
them, so that a good variety is noticed in their costume. For
ornaments, they are fond of pearls and rings, of which
costume and latter they manufacture some very tasteful ones them-
selves in ironwork. Besides this, they are very skilful in
twisted wood- work and mat-making. Indeed, they show in every
department of such manufacture a remarkable degree of neat-
ness and taste. The same advance from a primitive condition
to a higher level of culture is shown in their style of arming
themselves. Bows and spears seem to have been the original
Their weapous of the people, with a shield of plaited wood,
•weapons, fantastically bedecked with skins. Nowadays, however,
every one who wishes to be thought of any account endeavours
to procure a rifle ; and, indeed, among the men of higher rank,
the original muzzle-loader is already thought an inferior weapon,
In Usoga, as in Uganda, almost every make of weapon may be
found represented, even to the very newest. As a rule, the diffi-
culty is with the cartridges, and in these last days with powder
THE WASOGA AND THEIR SULTANS. 353
and bullet. But I scarcely think that it will he possible ever
again to root out the craving for these articles. These tribes
will no more be turned back to an uncivilised kind of weapon
than will the Arabs.
The houses are like great bee-hives, shaped like half a
globe, or else built with ridges and gables. The interior is
strewn with hay or straw, in a clean and comfortable ^asoga
manner. Wherever we came it was a matter of course ^^eiiings.
for the inhabitants at once to vacate their houses, to make room
for our people.
This country is divided politically into a number of little
sultanates, of which the most important is Wachore, in Akola.
Wachore means, strictly speaking, the people of Akola,
or Achore, which is the same. It appears that every and their
sultan of this country bears the name of Wachore, ^°'"^^'
which, therefore, would seem to be not a proper name, but a
title. All these sultans are subordinate to the mfalnie, the
King of Uganda, to whom they are obliged to send yearly a
strictly-calculated tribute in ivory, cattle, slaves, and other
articles. I believe Wachore would gladly have availed him-
self of the disturbances in Uganda at that time, to free himself
from this obligation, if only he had had powder enough, and
could have relied on all his own countrymen. The Waganda
who accompanied me were, for two nights, in fear of an attack
by him in Wachoreland ; an apprehension which formed some-
thing of a contradiction to their former contemptuous treatment
of the W^asoga. But, indeed, Wachore himself was unwilling,
after all, to engage in a conflict with us, who had concluded a
treaty of friendship with him. In short, the attack did not
take place either time, and it is to be supposed Wachore has
let the opportunity slip for ever.
My relations with Wachore were, from the first, of a most
cordial nature. I reached the south of his capital on February
18th, and a banana plantation belonging to the Sultan Friendly
was immediately allotted as a camping-ground for me ^ith"''^
and my people. The Sultan at once sent me, as a 'Wachore.
princely gift, two fine milch cows, with their calves, and
23
3,34 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
indicated his fields and banana groves as a foraging ground for
my people. As a return present, I put together for him an Indian
silk shawl, a handsome turban, a cask of powder, together with a
breech-loader and a dozen cartridges, calibre twelve. I then made
\\\y two servants put on their smart, gold-embroidered liveries,
and despatched the whole present to Wachore. He, meanwhile,
had set out, with the ladies of his harem and a numerous suite,
to pay us a ceremonial visit. My messengers met him on the
way, and he had already adorned himself with the new turban
Avhen he entered our house, about three o'clock in the afternoon.
His Highness was in a somewhat " elevated " condition.
Probably he had been drinking, to get his courage up. For,
A jovial certainly, the most wonderful rumours had preceded us,
potentate, ^j^icji^ jf ^j^gy (ji(j jjot precisely mark us out to be
cannibals, yet represented us as something very much of the
kind ; and that the normal occupation of the Badutschi was that
of murdering people, was a belief that I found to exist in quite
intelligent Waganda men. According to what Marco told me,
the English and Arabs spread reports of this kind on the Vic-
toria Nyanza. What stamped us specially as such was the
fight with the Mangati, and, above all, the driving off of the
herds of the Massais. Wachore is a man of about forty years of
■age, with strikingly intelligent and attractive features. A deep
.sabre -cut on his face gives proof that he has not shrunk from
the turmoil of the battle. He had brought with him large
j)itchers of various kinds of wine and beer, and whether we
liked it or no, we were forced to pledge him more frequently
than we would have wished. He talked and laughed incessantly,
and we were soon good friends. His ladies, who glanced slyly
out at us from under the fantastic shields, hung with asses' skins,
^j^^ which they held horizontally over their heads, inspected.
Sultan's in the meantime, with undisguised astonishment, the
guests, whose like they had never seen, the tent, the
motionless Somalis, standing by in their picturesque splendour.
I caused a small mirror to be handed to each of them, for which
they thanked me with many coquettish smiles, and, like true
•daughters of Eve, they immediately understood the use of them.
ARRIVAL- OF KAMANYIRO KANT A. 355
Wachore touched lightly upon his relations with the King of
Uganda, with a certain diplomatic dexterity. He received us
simply as friends of Muanga, and confined himself to wachore's
explaining, on his part, that he was a friend of any one ^i'"-
whom Muanga recognised as a friend. It struck me that though
Marco treated him with an apparent friendliness and courtesy,
there was yet a certain degree of self-sufficiency half hidden
under ceremonial formalities.
" My land is your land," said Wachore. " If you wish for
anything, let me know, and you shall have it at once."
At half-past four o'clock he at length withdrew with his
suite, and immediately afterwards large baskets of fowls, eggs,
and quails, together with sheep and goats, were dragged up to
us, as proof that the Sultan had been pleased by this visit to
our encampment.
Scarcely 'had the sound of Wachore's drums and flutes died
away in the north, when all at once the mixed music of many
more drums and flutes, belonging to a new procession, ap-
proached my tent from the west. I asked Marco what this
meant, and he answered, —
"This is the great chief of the Waganda (mkubroa). Do
not be friendly with him ; he is bad, and a liar, and he knows
not the words of Jesus Christ."
With genuine astonishment, I presently saw coming towards
me a personage, who, from his costume, might have been a fit
denizen of an Oriental court, but was such an apparition as
I certainly should not have expected to see in Central Africa.
A dark caftan, embroidered with silver, fell over wide sky-
blue trousers, also adorned with silver embroidery. On his
head he wore a diadem, made entirely of strings of beads of
different colours, artistically interwoven, and rising in the form
of a kind of crown. The wearer of this adornment was Kamanyiro
Kamanyiro Kanta, the cousin of the late King Mtesa, Muanga's
and uncle of Muanga, to whose party he belonged. At '^''^^■
the overthrow of the Christians he had been driven across the
Nile by the Arabs, and was now staying in Usoga, where he
claimed to represent the interests of his country as ambassador
356 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
extraordinary of Muauga. Under this pretext he had got
together a large amount of property, and among the rest a
harem of extraordinarily pretty girls.
He came up to salute me with loud yells, which his musicians
accompanied by a wild flourish on their instruments. I then
took him by the hand, and led him with slow steps in front of
my tent, where he took his seat upon a chair, which he had
brought with him, while I seated myself opposite him in my
own armchair. Herr von Tiedemann, who had been drawn
from his tent by the noise, was not a little surprised to find this
new procession with us.
Kamanyiro Kanta's feeling towards Marco seemed at first ta
be one of great irritation. As Marco informed me afterwards,
he had asked him reproachfully why he had not brought up the
Career of great English expedition from Kawirondo. Kamanyiro's
Kamanyiro. pgj.^Q(j of prosperity Seemed to have been in the days of
Mtesa, and especially during the months that Stanley spent at
Uganda. Accordingly, he felt from the beginning a natural
sympathy with the English; a sympathy which he certainly
took care to hide from me, but from which he could never quite
free himself. Marco, however, made him a very quiet report, in
which he paraphrased the old Latin saying, " Ultra posse nema
obligatur " (" Since the Englishmen would not come, it had not
been possible for him to bring them"). Then he passed on to
a description of our expedition, pointed to the cattle that we
had taken from the Massais, and further declared that it was
I who had beaten the Mangati on the north-east of the Victoria
Nyanza.
At every remark of this kind the old gentleman sprang
from his chair, with loud yells, to clasp me in his arms, each
embrace being accompanied with a loud flourish from his
orchestra, which consisted of about seven performers.
"When Marco had ended, Kamanyiro said to me, "I salute
you, 0 German, as the friend of Muanga, and as my friend !
We are all one. What we possess is yours, and what you possess
is ours."
After this the whole procession, which was composed of
RECEPTION BY SULTAN WACHORE. 357
about seventy persons, went on its way, and presently had
vanished, amid beating of drums and tootling of flutes, like a
vivid mirage ; and once again I sat alone in the sweet rest-
fulness of the banana grove, on which the full moon shed its
light.
On the following morning we paid our return visit to the
Sultan Wachore.
For visits of this nature we donned a uniform which had
been devised by Herr von Tiedemann — white trousers, trimmed
with a broad stripe of gold down the side, stuck into Return visit
high boots, coming up to the knee, and white jackets, *<> ''^*<'''^<"^6-
with red lappets at the shoulders embroidered with gold, and
cuffs to the sleeves to match. The helmet was also adorned
with bands of gold, and I wore, in addition, a black and gold
scarf. Appearances count for much in Europe, and for still
more in Central Africa, and it would have shown very little
wisdom not to have turned this fact to profit.
Wachore received us in a dome-like hall, open on one side.
He was reclining on an Indian divan, placed on the ground, and
was dressed in a black caftan, embroidered with gold. He was
smoking a pipe, and had, of course, a large bumper of banana
wine at his side, from which he sucked up the intoxicating
liquid through a reed.
" We are come to salute you," I said, when we had taken
our seats before him on the chairs we brought with us, " and to
tell you that we are your friends, and that we intend to remain
your friends."
"Every one who is the friend of Muanga is niyp^^pj._
friend. I love white men, and am especially glad tomentsand
' ^ „ ceremonies.
be friends with the Germans, who understand war.
" Have you ever seen any white men ? "
" Once before this, in Uganda."
"Now that we have been here among you, no doubt many
more white men will come into your country."
"They will all be welcome," was the repl)^ "and especially
the Germans."
The conversation continued in this style for more than an
358 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
hour, during which the banana wine circulated without inter-
mission, and the pipes were refilled. Above Wachore's sofa a
few guns were hanging. They were breech-loaders of various
construction, and one in particular, a Martini rifle, Wachore
A tragic Ordered to be taken down and handed to us. It was
accident. ]^q^^ loaded and cocked, and suddenly went off in Herr
von Tiedemann's hands. The bullet passed through the head
of one of Wachore's attendants, so that his eyeball fell at our
feet, and the man was dead in a moment ; and a second was hit
on the jaw, which was shattered, and he, too, afterwards ex^Dired.
There was a moment's deep silence, and then I apologised to
Wachore for Herr von Tiedemann.
" My friend weeps sorely," I said, " that the weapon went
off in his hands."
Wachore suddenly burst out into a roar of laughter. " It
does not signify in the least," he exclaimed ; " the man was
only a slave. Your friend did not do it ; it was the gun that
did it, so do not trouble yourselves about that."
The whole court joined in the laughter, that seemed, how-
ever, a little forced. The corpse was quickly removed, sand
,. was strewn over the pools of blood, and the bowl of
Cheap esti- . . ^ . .
mate of banana wine was immediately handed round again ; just
uman i e. ^^ ^]^gjj ^^ Europe a guest has broken a valuable piece
of china, and the well-bred hostess is anxious to pass over the
unpleasant incident as quickly as possible. Such is the value
set on human life in Africa.
This painful scene was just ended, when Kamauyiro Kanta
appeared, with his attendants, and I arranged with them that I
should march westward towards the Nile, by slow daily stages.
As soon as the answer confirming the report of Emin Pasha's
departure arrived from Uganda, I would be ready to march
across the Nile M'ith the Wagandas, who had fled to Usoga, and
to make the attempt to bring back Muanga and the Christian
party into that country.
We had scarcely returned to the camp before Wachore sent
to Herr von Tiedemann a basketful of eggs, to show that he
had no ill feeling against him on account of the occurrence at the
.1 BUDGET OF ENGLISH LETTERS. 359
morning's drinking party. On my side, I sent another gold-
embroidered caftan in return to Wachore.
My people were still not quite easy as to the fate which
lay before them. Thinking to inspire them with a greater
feeling of security I gave orders that only one sentry should
be on duty at night, instead of the four who generally kept
guard ; for I knew perfectly well that if we should be attacked
in these regions it was quite immaterial how many men were
on sentry duty. In any case we should, if attacked, be hope-
lessly lost.
My frame of mind during these days was somewhat agitated
and uneasy, with respect to the approaching decision concerning
the final object of the expedition. This decision was to be
given earlier than I had anticipated.
According to the agreement, I set out on the following day,
advancing slowly towards the west. We now always made
short marches, with drums and fifes playing, and regularly
pitched our tents in some banana grove. Our life was in every
respect a pleasant one, for there were no immediate problems for
the expedition to solve. Wachore alone was entirely responsible
for the provisioning, and Wasoga provided guides.
On February 13th we happened to have a great number
of Wagandas and Wasogas in our camp. Kamanyiro's band was
playing, and the beer was flowing in streams, when Letters for
suddenly some Waganda men came up to me, andusiex^
handed me letters. These letters were addressed to^^*"''"'-
the gentlemen of the English expedition, and I was on the
point of returning them, when I suddenly perceived that on one
of them H. M. Stanley was indicated as the sender. A joyful
hope thrilled through me at this sight, that the news of
Stanley's departure must be incorrect, for if he was now send-
ing a letter to Usoga he could not possibly have left the
Equatorial Province five months ago. Marco put an end to
ray uncertainty by tearing open the letter, and giving it to me
to read ; and under the peculiar circumstances in which I was
placed, I felt myself perfectly justified in doing so.
And now the veil fell from the shrouded image, and I saw
360 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
it before me in all its nakedness. The letter was to the follow-
ing effect : —
" Chuech Mission Station, Makolo.
" September AtA, 1889.
" Mr. H. M. Stanley and the expedition for the relief and
rescue of £min Pasha haA'e arrived at Makolo Station, at the
southern extremity of the Victoria Nyanza, accompanied by
Emin Pasha, Signor Casati, forty Egyptians, and about four
hundred Soudanese.
" The Equatorial Province is accordingly abandoned. Lado,
Mugi Geri, and Dufile have been for some months past in the
hands of the Mahdi. After the evacuation of Wadelai
Report
from H. M. and Nuguru Station most of the troops deserted in a
^"^ ^^' body, and went to Makraka. A small body of troops
were last heard of at Msua, but all the soldiers M'ho were
found in the province are rebels against the Egyptian Govern-
ment, and cannot be trusted by a European. A letter con-
taining similar information to this has been sent to Mr. Stokes.
Mr. Stanley arrived here on August 28th, 1889. In a few
days the expedition will start from here for the coast vid
Mpuapua.
(Signed) "H.M.Stanley."
Such was the cold, dry purport of the letter. Not a greet-
ing to his countrymen ; not a word of counsel or of suggestion
Disappoint- to Jackson and his colleagues ! Although I had, for
discourage- Several days past, conjectured the kind of news con-
""''*• tained in this letter, the effect on me was simply
crushing. So, while I was yet in Muina, Emin Pasha had
already been at the southern end of Lake Victoria. When I had
landed in Kwaihu Bay he must have quitted his province long
before. For this, then, we had endured all the dangers,
anxieties, and toils ; to receive this news there, at the very
gates of the Equatorial Province ! What could have been the
design of Providence in permitting us to advance so far, only to
make it clear to us at last that our labours had been all in vain ?
AN OBJECT TO BE ACTTIEVET).
361
" I will march on to Wadelai, in s])ite of it," was ni_v first
resolve. "Perhaps Emin Pasha av ill come some day or other
to deliver ns," was the mocking echo of my thonght. But this
impulse of defiance was soon succeeded by more reasonable
considerations.
^!W,^
^'dWl''
Dr. Peters reads Stanleys Letter.
There was yet, I knew, a possibility of making the ex-
pedition, after all, conducive to the great aims out of whicJi
it had arisen. If Emin Pasha was gone, and the Equatorial
Province evacuated, the solution lay in the great contrast
Ijetween the Christian and the Arab system to the north ot
Lake Victoria, in Uganda. I'ganda must lie made a rampart.
362 XEW LIGHT O.Y DARK AFRICA.
to keep back the deluge of Mohammedanism from invading
Determina- the uorth, aud perhaps a starting-point for winning
oeed with"" back all that had been lost there. The two English
the march, expeditions from the west and from the east had
been fearful to interfere in the tangled disturbances of this
country. If, then, the German Emin Pasha Expedition suc-
ceeded in contributing to the solution of the question in a
Christian sense, we should have the right to say to ourselves,
that the toils which had led us to Wachore's capital had not
been in vain. The expedition would then have effected a
tangible object, and we should be able, with a clear conscience,
to meet those who had sent us out. At the same time, I might
hope to have an opportunity of working for the furtherance
of the special national interests of Germany in Uganda. I
learnt afterwards that, even before my expedition started,
Uganda had been ceded to England, but no information of
the cession had been communicated to us. A great German
expedition had been allowed to march into these countries,
without its having been thought necessary to vouchsafe to it
any information whatever on that important transaction.
On February 13th, 1890, I was naturally under the impres-
sion that the die that settled the fate of Uganda had not as yet
Up to been cast in Europe ; that the prize of the contest was
Uganda! g^jj^ ^^iexB, and would fall to the lot of the boldest ; and
that in any case the monopolising of the country for the special
interests of England could yet be prevented. This prospect
could not fail to be a seductive one, and to nerve my resolution.
Providence had rendered abortive all our plans regarding Unjoro
and the north. To resist fate was beyond our power. On the
other hand, it pointed us clearly and unmistakably to the
south-west, where vast interests of civilisation were at stake.
Up then, and away to Uganda !
Half an hour after the receipt of Stanley's letter, — which, by
Preparation ^^^ ^^'^^^ ^ ^^^* 0"^ t° Kawiroudo, — I gave orders to my
for depar- columu to hold itself in readiness for the march, to
ture. '
turn off" towards Uganda early on the following day.
I was well aware what risk I once more took upon myself by
HOPING FOR TBE BEST. 36S
SO doing ; but I can honestly say, that although I saw that I could
now make. an honourable retreat upon the English expedition in
Kawirondo, which I had reason to believe would at any rate not
be hostile to us, I never for one moment entertained the thought
of so doing.
In the evening I sat longer than usual in serious conversa-
tion with Herr von Tiedemann, in front of my tent. The twi-
light of the banana grove conjured up grotesque images before
our eyes, and a gentle night wind rustled through the waving
leaves. In the distance could be heard the drums, fifes, and
songs of the Wasoga men ; in the camp all was still.
Afterwards, when I lay down to rest, there came over my
heart an infinite sense of forlornness and a profound self-pity.
My thoughts wandered back to my country, which had conflicting-
allowed it to come to pass that a foreign power should e^oti""'-
dare to deprive us of almost every means of making our appear-
ance effectively, here on the scene of action. I seemed to be a
repudiated man, and my passion of distress was lightened by an
outburst of convulsive sobbing. Without, the night wind swept
through the rustling leaves of the banana groves ; the lofty
boughs of the tall fig-tree, beneath which my tent had been
pitched, swayed in the wind, and whispered to each other strange
weird stories. At last, my spirit was soothed into a quiet
composure, and bowed itself in submission to the eternal and
inscrutable designs of Providence.
The rising sun found us next day on our march towards the
south-west. I wanted to cross the Nile at Jinga, above the
Ripon Falls ; and I again despatched letters to Muanga, with
the request that he would send boats to Grant's Bay, that from
there I might open communications with the Christian party
across the lake.
Our further journey onward towards Usoga was accomplished
in a very agreeable manner. The daily marches were short,
out of consideration for Kamanyiro and his surround- pieasant
ings. There was abundance of food and drink, and JJ^^^g^'' *""
in the afternoons and evenings we were entertained ^^oe*-
by the dances and songs of the girls of Kamanyiro's harem, to
tl
364 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
which entertainments we were regularly invited after dinner ;
sometimes, also, an assembly of the people was called, in which
Kamanyiro would convey our greetings to the Wasoga men, and
assure them of the close friendship Avhich united us to himself.
As the afternoon drew on Kamanyiro invariably got drunk ; but
as he was always in a good humour, he contributed in no small
degree to the hilarity of the expedition. Indeed, it was alto-
gether an extraordinary contrast, when I thought of the times
when we were marching over the high plateaus beneath the
Kenia, or over the Angata na Nyuki. Kamanyiro's drummers,
like all his other followers, were one-eyed. When I
Kaman- . . •'
yiro's one- asked him how it happened that he had engaged none
eye men. ^^^ one -eyed people, he made a gesture with his hand,
to indicate the action of tearing out a man's eye, and, with a
.snap of his fingers towards the ground, cried, " Eh, it looks
better ! " This one-eyedness was, as it were, the livery of
Kamanyiro's servants, and was not by any means the effect of
accident ; the old gentleman himself knew best how it had
been brought about.
On February 16th, I at length received the letters from
Uganda which confirmed the news of Emin Pasha's departure,
and invited us to come to the aid of the Christian party. At
the same time the French certainly told us that plague,
famine, and black small-pox were raging in the country. This,
however, did not have any effect on my decision.
On February 1 8th I encamped, as I have mentioned, on the
spot where Bishop Hannington had paid with his life for the
Bjgjj jj^jj_obstinacy with which he had persisted in his march
nington's from the east to Uganda, in spite of the warnings given
murder. , . _ . . , ^ ,
him on the subject, in the most urgent manner, by the
French and English. The Sultan Douba, who had executed the
punishment of death on Hannington, had fled at the approach
of our expedition, and kept entirely aloof from us. I should
have dearly liked to avenge on him the murder of a white man ;
although, as a matter of fact, he had merely carried out a
judicial sentence pronounced in the capital.
The Waganda have an old prophecy, according to which an
ARRIVAL AT TEE NILE. 365
expedition coming from the east is to " eat up " the land and
make an end of the dynasty of the Wakintu. For that reason
the approach from the east has always been strictly forbidden,
and my expedition was the first which had entered the country
from that direction. Muanga had, accordingly, forbidden
Hannington to come to Uganda from Kawirondo, and cause of
had even sent him boats, to carry him to Usukuma, and ^^^ '='^™^-
thence to Uganda. Bishop Hannington's death, therefore, had
no connection whatever with the persecution of the Christians,
which happened later, but was occasioned by entirely different
considerations, which had nothing at all to do with religion.
On February 19th the waters of the sacred Nile suddenly
gleamed at my feet. I must confess that a thrill of proud
triumph ran through me when I beheld the Nile. The Arrival at
little German Emin Pasha Expedition had achieved ^^^ ^'■^^■
what none had ever accomplished before. Tana, Baringo, the
Nile ! With only some sixty men, we had penetrated through
Gallas and Massais, to the eastern boundary of Uganda. What-
ever Fate might yet have in store for us, in every case honour
was saved.
I pitched my camp about fifty paces above the river bank.
Hundreds of Christian Waganda, especially girls and women,
came crowding round to greet us. They welcomed us -welcome
as deliverers and liberators ; but declared, in answer to christian
my proposal that they should go with me to the "Waganda.
opposite bank, that they were quite willing to do so, but would
wait for " two days." The attachment and confidence of these
people struck me as something quite touching and affecting.
When, on the following morning, I directed the passage of
my expedition across to Uganda, the whole right bank of the
Nile was covered with hundreds of these figures, clad in gar-
ments of brown fibre cloth. I had had my chair set up on a
prominence, on the right bank of the river, so that from that
position I might superintend the passage of the caravan.
Below me was displayed an extremely gay and animated
scene ; the fantastic Waganda boats, with their long projecting
prows, adorned by branchiog antlers hung with skins and beads.
366 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
crowded along on the water, to embark my people and the
cattle. These boats are made of planks sewn together and
Handsome held firm by a series of strong ribs* Above these ribs
thf ^ °^ small benches are arranged for the rowers, on which,
waganda. according to the size of the boat, from fourteen to thirty
rowers take their places, and propel the vessel by means of a
kind of paddle. On one of the benches aft stands the singer,
who directs the whole, and whom the rowers accompany in
chorus with their rhythmic songs. The helmsman sits in the
bow. The whole presents a picturesque appearance. The rate
of progress, when the men work lustily, is a very fair one — as
much as five English miles an hour. The boat has a sort of
keel, by means of which it cuts swiftly through the water ; the
end of this keel is prolonged beyond the fore part of the boat,
and forms the great beak or prow before mentioned. The
vessel, altogether, recalls the representations sometimes seen on
Lavish Egyptian temples. But what a lavish waste of power
ture^f^ is displayed by the whole arrangement of these vessels !
labour. From twenty-five to thirty men are required to trans-
port six or seven passengers or eight or ten loads across the
lake ! No one can wonder that the result of work obtained is
everywhere in Africa so insignificant, when power is wasted in
this way.
Meanwhile the transport of my men and luggage and of
the cattle was quickly effected. Load after load was
Passage . ^ •'
across t ( deposited on the opposite shore, which I had already
visited on the previous day. When all had been carried
across, I passed over myself with the flag to the left shore, and
then marched at once with my column in a southern direction
to a plantation of Kamanyiro's, where I purposed to encamp for
the day.
The crossing was accomplished a few hundred paces above
Ripon Falls. The Nile is here about 6,500 feet in breadth.
Eipon The Ripon Falls are precipitated on the left or Uganda
■^^"^- side in a cataract, and on the other side in the form of
rapids, towards the north.
The fall may be from twenty to forty feet in height. It is
ARRIVAL IN UGANDA. 367
astonishing what a number of fish are carried down by these
falls. The Waganda have a curious method of catching them.
They drag them out of the water, at a place immediately Fishing by
under the falls, with a large hook, without using any ^^^ ^^^^'■
bait. It is probable that the fish are so stunned by the fall
down the cataract that they are easy to catch. I saw a man
bring out nine or ten large fish in five minutes. The fish are
excellent eating. There were both flat fish and some of the
salmon kind, which made a very agreeable variety in our
monotonous bill of fare.
Towards twelve o'clock we had reached Kamanyiro's planta-
tion, and established our first camp on the soil of Uganda.
"When the last of the boats which had carried Kaman- „.
First en-
yiro and his men across to us turned back towards oampment
Usoga, a kind of oppression stole over my heart. We ^^ ^^^ *'
were now manifestly face to face with dangers which exceeded
all those that lay behind us. I neither knew Muanga and the
temper of his faction, nor had I any information as to the
position of the Arabs. How if the boats which I expected to
meet me at Grant s Bay were not there ? Must I not then
assume that the Arab faction would try, under all circum-
stances, to prevent my joining Muanga .P And how^^^^ ^^
could I entertain any reasonable hope, if they resorted ous enter-
to force, to escape being destroyed, with my whole
expedition ? I knew for certain that we were in no condition
to resist Karema, if he were to make a resolute attack upon us.
We could certainly sell our lives as dear as possible, but there
could be no thought of a victory, or even of escape, in case we
were attacked by the Arabs. So that our position at this time
was just that of men playing at hazard and risking everything
against the bank.
When we entered Kamanjiro's plantation, with drums beat-
ing and colours flying, my people were jovial and of good cheer.
But my own feelings were more serious than ever, and the
immediate future rose in a threatening form before my mind.
The old. must fall, and time itself must chanpe,
And lliiis new life shall hlossom frum the rniiis.'
SCHILLEE.
IF my mind was iiielint'd to super-
stition, I foiuid occasion I'or
jiloomy forebodings immediately upon
our entrance into Uganda. I had
seated myself under a tree, and given
orders to my servant Rukua to pitcli
my tent on a spot which I pointed out
to him. Rukua placed his Lancaster
repeating rifle against a banana tree,
and was just preparing to carry out
„ ^ , . my orders, when all at once
Fatal acci- - '
dent to a shot was heard, and he fe
Eukua. Ill- p mi
bleeding at my leet. llic
bullet had entered his body close to
tJie spine, ])assed through the lungs, and come
out under the left arm. I thought for a
moment that the shot was fired by Talabanga through care-
lessness, and had already drawn my revolver to punish him
DISAPPOINTMENT AT GRANT'S BAY. 369
for it, when I saw that Rukua had been shot down by his
own weapon. He had again, in defiance of my repeated
warnings, been carrying it not only loaded, but cocked;
it had slipped down from the banana tree, and gone off as
it fell.
There was no chance of the faithful fellow's surviving. We
bandaged the wound at once, but every breath he drew came
whistling through the shot holes, and black spirts of ,
blood welled out on the ground. He at once began to death and
wander, calling incessantly on my name, and that of ^^^ '
his friend and countryman, Selek. I had him placed on my
bed and carried into a hut close by ; but he died within half-an-
hour, and we had only the sad satisfaction of giving him an
honourable funeral. I now forbade any further carry- precaution-
ing of loaded guns throughout the whole expedition ; ^"^y '"^**'^-
for the mere marching with them was a serious danger to life
•and limb, quite apart from any hostile attack.
In the afternoon Kamanyiro came to me as usual, and
brought me the information that the boats which were to carry
ns to Muanga were waiting for us in Grant's Bay.
The next morning we accordingly started for that place.
We marched first along the high road which leads from Usoga
to Mengo, but soon after nine o'clock turned away from it to
the left, and made a wide circuit round the bay so as to ^^^ ^^^^^
reach its south-western extremity. Here we arrived at not pro-
noon, to find that no boats were there ; but I received,
instead, a letter from Mr. Gordon, inviting me to march over-
land to Mengo.
" BuLiNGOGWE, J^eST-Mosr!/ 18«/i, 1890.
" Dear Sir, — Muanga, King of Uganda, thanks you for your
letter of February 14th, 1890. He wishes us to tell you that the
plague was ravaging the island where we all lived crowded to-
gether. We left that island, and intend to return to ^^^^^^^ ^^^^
Mengo, to the mainland. We have no fear of the plague King
.,...-,■, lluanga.
there, for there is not a human bemg living m the place.
The king sends you a messenger, named Mika Sematimba, who
24
370 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
understands Kiswahili, and will be your guide to Mengo,
where you will meet the king. Muanga invites you to come
quickly, and if you will cross the lake to Usukuma, he will give
you canoes.
" Yours faithfully,
" E. C. Gordon."
The correspondence with Muanga was carried on by means
of boats on the Victoria Nyanza.
I now found myself in anything but an agreeable position.
The Christians on the islands urged me to go overland to the
Doubtful capital, and they would then place themselves in com-
position, munication with me from the opposite island. Between
me and the capital lay a completely desolate region, and I had'
no accurate information concerning the attitude of the Arab
party. I had, indeed, been informed that the Arabs had recently
been driven back by the Christians before Mengo, but even
after this occurrence the court had still remained on the
islands, and the messengers told me expressly, that Karema also
was still in the north of Uganda. How could I suppose that he
would refrain from attempting to prevent my effecting a junc-
tion with the Christians P
I sent for Kamanyiro in the evening, and said to him, —
" You told me yesterday that I should find boats to-day here
in Grant's Bay on Lake Victoria. Well, where are these
boats P "
" The boats are not there."
" I know that myself. I am a German, and we Germans do
^ , ,. not like people to tell us lies. If there were no boats
Declaration ^ y
ofKaman- here, why did you say yesterday that we should find
yiro Kanta. „ „
some ?
" My people had reported it to me."
" Yes, indeed, your people had reported it to you. I do not
believe your words, and I advise you in future to refrain from
acting towards me in such a manner. I now inform you that
we shall start to-morrow morning to march towards Mengo ;
but I shall no longer march after the manner of the Waganda,
PLAIN SPEAKING TO KA2IANYIR0. 371
men, as I did in Usoga, but in the German fashion ; that is,
we shall move quickly forward, from before sunrise in Definite in-
the morning till afternoon, to get to Mengo as quickly ^J jj*'""'
as possible. Have your men in readiness, therefore, and Meters,
send everyone who is not able to march quickly, back across
the Nile for the present, to Usoga. I especially advise you to
send back your women there. If you are not able, yourself, to
accompany me, you can also return to Usoga. These are my
orders, and I now leave it to you whether you will obey them
or not."
This tone was to some extent new to the old Uganda chief,
who on the day before had had a whole village flogged, simply
to give us an idea of his power. I may refer to the statements
of Emin Pasha and of Stanley, to show with what arrogance
these chiefs were formerly accustomed to behave towards white
men. Kamanyiro had already tried once in Usoga to take that
tone with me. One morning, when I gave the signal for starting
and my tent was already taken down, he sent a servant with
the message, that I might as well have the tent put up again,
as we should not march that day. I thereupon sent for ^^^^j^g^jj^.
him, and asked him drily whether he was of opinion that ing with
. Ill Kamanyiro.
I had lost my wits during the night, or whether that
calamity had happened to himself; — after which, in three
minutes' time, we found ourselves amicably marching along
together.
Here on the Nile was the province of which Kamanyiro was
Governor, and the very next day was to bring his antiquated
claims into open conflict with the ideas which we had been
accustomed to carry out in the expedition. On this day, before
sunrise, we had already climbed the ridge that encloses Lake
Victoria like the walls of a crater. Uganda in its south-
western portions is less fertile than Usoga., It may be ^^^^^^
said that in Usoga the greater part is cultivated, and dessert ^
in Uganda the greater part is steppe. The whole
country parallel to Lake Victoria is framed by a hilly range
forming a table-land; and a similar mountain formation
extends along the Nile to the north, as far as the eye can range.
372 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
The formation of the mountains is very singular, such as I have
never seen elsewhere ; always table-shaped, with blunt flattened
summits.
These hills stretch uninterruptedly as far as the north-east
angle of the lake, to the mouth of the Katonga near Buddu.
As I said before, the mountains generally slope abruptly down
to the lake, in crater-like formation.
As the lake runs into the land in many bays, and a row of
more or less beautiful islands lies facing the shore, the view
from the heights is extraordinarily attractive and
from the picturesque. If the eye is allowed to wander towards
^^ °' the right, over the plateau northwards, a broad plain
is seen stretching out, only broken here and there by isolated
hills. Where the land slopes away to the north 1 ie the
villages and plantations of Waganda, everywhere enclosed by
ever-green banana groves, surrounded by fields of corn and
batatas. The whole scene makes a curious but a very pleasing
impression.
The billows of war had not yet rolled to this farthermost
south-west corner of Uganda. It was not until the second day
that we came to a devastated and burnt- out district. Here we
^j^^ found people still left, who gazed in mute fear at the
astonished great black, white, and red flag, which in front of our
expedition was carried for the first time through
Uganda.
As I well knew that in the case of possible Arab enterprise I
should have to rely principally on moral impressions, I had taken
care that our reputation should precede us, and had been
■careful above all to bring with me from Usoga a band of war
March in ^i^ums, which should send the signal of war resounding
military before US over the far-spreading heights; — three drums
tuned in fifths, on which the roll was beaten, and the
big drum coming in between, the whole producing a solemn and
threatening effect.
In this way we went on the whole morning, in a westerly
direction. We passed over one chain of hills after another,
and in the valleys several watercourses were crossed, which
r"
.n
i
Jif^^
tf^
S'
-^
^
\^
KAilANYIRO'S DUPLICITY FRUSTRATED. 373
carry the waters of Uganda into the Victoria Nyanza. On
February 22nd I encamped in Ischioragama, a large Encamp-
and well-preserved plantation belonging to the king, J^oMorl-
with a broad road running straight through it, along- ga^a.
side of which I established my encampment.
Kamanyiro Kanta did not make his appearance until an
hour after our arrival, and even then he was very weary, and
groaning from his exertions. I went a few steps forward to
meet him and congratulate him, a little ironically, on his
prowess in marching. I then took him by the hand and led
him, as usual, to the chair in front of my tent. But now the
old gentleman suddenly broke out into a flood of in- „
, *^ Kaman-
vectives and curses, of which I certainly did not under- yiroKanta's
stand all, as they were principally directed to the large '^ ""^"y'
crowd of Waganda men who stood round ; but I gathered that
they were chiefly levelled at the arrogance of white men, who
imagined that they could now play the part of conquerors in
Uganda. He wound up his address with the announcement to
me, that the king had sent word I was now to remain for three
days in Ischioragama. I answered Kamanyiro, very quietly,
that in future, when he wanted to hold a conference with his
assembled people, he must be kind enough to choose some other
place for it than my tent ; and, in addition to this, he was not
to bawl so loud when he was close to me, as I could hear very
well. As regarded his communication, I did not believe Muanga
had made any such demand upon me. Moreover, even if this
were the case, I should not be in a position to fulfil it, as it did
not suit my manner of travelling.
"You say that this way of travelling is your custom in
Uganda. Well, you Waganda may keep to it. So far as I am
concerned, you can stay not only three days, but three Dr.Peters's
years, here in Ischioragama. For my part, I am a "p^^-
German, and am accustomed not to copy the ways of strangers,
but to follow my own."
Hereupon Kamanyiro poured forth a fresh torrent of
imprecations. He had always said so— the white men would
" eat up " Uganda yet,— but that all came from their allowing
374 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the words of Jesus there now, and letting the old religion
perish.
Then I stood up, and said to Kamanyiro, "Now I desire to be
alone. Go away to your own houses."
Then, as he did not obey this request, I summoned some
Somalis to my aid, which had a completely terrifying effect on
the Waganda men. Much as I was disposed to make
Summary .
dismissal of some allowance for the self-willed obstinacy of an old
amanyiro. -^^^^^^ chief, I did uot think it conducive either to
German or to our own interests to play the part which former
travellers — Stanley above all — had been content to act. As I
learned in Uganda, Stanley had been kept there a complete
prisoner for seven months, and Kamanyiro always quoted him
when he came to me with demands. Upon these grounds, I
was very glad of the opportunity of making clear to the old
gentleman, in the first place, that there was a difference between
the year 1889 and the time when Stanley was in Uganda;
secondly, that when a man came at the head of an armed expe-
dition to the assistance of the King of Uganda, it was not the
same thing as when Stanley entered the country alone, and
only on a visit ; and thirdly, that apart from all this, I was not
inclined to play the traditional part accepted by white European
travellers in this part of Africa.
When I had dismissed Kamanyiro, I wrote the following
letter to Mr. Gordon : —
" IscHiORAGAMA, February 22nd, 1890.
" Dear Sir,— Kamanyiro Kanta informed me to-day that the
king had sent him word that I was to remain here three days,
letter to As tMs is in direct contradiction to your letter of
the'mis^- "'yesterday, I cannot believe that it is true. But, how-
sionary. g^gj. ^j^g^^ .^^^ -^q^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^ aCCOrd with
my plans and the manner of my journey, and I shall conse-
quently continue my march to Mengo. I shall encamp to-
morrow at Katente, and the day after at Wakarimbue. Kindly
ask the king whether it is really his wish that I should wait for
DIFFICULT POSITION OF THE DIPLOMATIST. 375
three days in a plantation by the roadside. Let me have a
brief answer. There is no food here for my expedition.
" Yours sincerely,
" Cabl Peters.
" To E. 0. Gordon, Esq."
I sent this letter at once to Kamanyiro Kanta, with the
request that he would forward it across the lake to the king.
Kamanyiro, who may very well have guessed the contents,
after breakfast sent to me the supervisor of his harem — who
was accustomed to preside at our afternoon entertain- Kamanyiro
ments — with the remark, that he noticed on the march ap^re^-'^
my sheep did not get along very well. He feared J^e^sions.
that, if I continued to advance in the same manner, I should
lose very many of my sheep. I could not restrain a smile at
this, but I sent back the reassuring answer that from Massai-
land, where I had acquired them as spoils of war, to this place,
the sheep had got used to much longer marches. Besides, it
mattered little if some of them were lost ; when this flock came
to an end, I should very well know where to get another.
Upon that, Kamanyiro sent word back : " Did I wish the
letter to the king to be sent to-day or to-morrow ? " I answered,
"To-day," and, in fact, "immediately."
Meanwhile evening was drawing on, when suddenly I heard
my old friend coming towards me in grand procession. He
drove before him several oxen for slaughter, and Renewed
brought fowls in baskets, and some bananas and '"^*-
honey. With loud yells, as was his custom, he sought to
embrace me, which in a very cool, dry manner, I stopped him
from doing. He then seated himself by my side, in front of
my tent, trying to hide his confusion from his companions by
continual chattering and laughing. He also tried repeatedly,
after his old fashion, to drink with me, which I, however,
courteously declined. I purposely refrained from speaking of
my departure on the following morning, and was now curious
to see whether Kamanyiro would stay behind or attach him-
self to me.
376 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Next morDing, as we were about to start, we noticed that his
women were already prepared for a journey ; and when, towards
Kaman- mid-day, I had set up my camp in Katente, he came
fheVro^' up to greet me, limp as a broken lily. On the way he
cession. jja,d complained to Herr von Tiedemann, that he was
an old man, and could not march as we young people did. I
advised him accordingly to have a litter made for himself, and
let his slaves carry him in it ; but Kamanyiro declined this.
He may well have feared that his slaves, who one and all hated
him from the depths of their souls, would seize some oppor-
tunity of launching him down a precipice. However that may
have been, from this time forward our relations to each other
were established on a proper footing, and this remained a
precedent in all my future dealings with the Waganda.
After we left Katente, we came into a perfectly desolate
country. Not only were the villages burnt, and the groves of
bananas destroyed, the whole landscape was simply burnt
region of up, and lay there a black expanse. By the roadsides
lay skeletons and corpses still in process of decom-
position, poisoning the air. The sunshine, which had smiled
over Usoga, had vanished ; the heavens were for the most
part covered with grey clouds, and the wind either in fitful
gusts whirled the black heaps of ashes up in the air, or flung
sudden cold showers on the expedition. The carrion vultures,
who were gorging themselves with the flesh of the unburied
corpses, seemed to be the only inhabitants of this land. Every
trace of human beings had vanished. An oppressive desolation
filled our hearts. For even if these impressions were not
powerful enough to shake our resolution, they could not help
to have a great influence on our spirits. Dull and almost
spectrally echoed the roll of our drums from the hills, as we
crossed the heights one after another. "When we descended
A gloomy into the valleys, there would be a brook or a water-
march, course to pass over, whose broken bridge increased
the aspect of desolation around us. And who was to warrant
us that from behind any of the rocks on these hill ridges, over
which we had to march, we should not be suddenly greeted by
A WELCOME REINFORCEMENT. 377
a volley from the Arab followers of Karema? Who could
have deemed his own life secure from one five minutes to
another, by day or by night ?
So we went on, anxious and gloomy, and joyless was the
time spent in the dreary encampment, which no longer yielded
us any sustenance. Thus we travelled on, two days more, past
Kigogorro and Numuyango, until, on February 25th, the road
suddenly began to become lively once more. In the
first instance, I received on this day the answer to Dr.peters-s
my letter from Ischioragama, which informed me that ^*"*'^'
the king had given no order whatever to stop me anywhere.
On the contrary, he was desirous that I should come to him as
soon as possible.
The road, which for the last part of the way had wound
round Murchison Bay in a north-westerly direction, turned
suddenly to the southward. At this point some of Muanga's
soldiers were stationed, who welcomed us with ioyful .
. «• •' A scene of
shouts, presenting us with golden-yellow bananas, and brightness
pledging us in foaming drinks fronj. mighty pitchers. ^^ ^°^'
We were approaching Kisallosallo, a plantation of the king's,
some miles to the north of the capital, Rubaja-Mengo. From
all sides Muanga's soldiers hurried up ; their line of outposts
had been pushed forward during the last two days as far as
Kisallosallo. We now reached the place, and were so far in
safety, since the united fighting power of Muanga and my own
men would be sufficient to stand against the Arabs, Wanjoros,
and the Mahdi's followers from the north.
We pitched our camp in Kisallosallo, and I immediately
sent messengers to the king, to announce to him our arrival in
the neighbourhood of his capital. I learned that I -^^^ ^^
should meet Muanga in the morning at Mengo, and King mu-
that the French mission intended to transfer its
quarters thither from Bulingogwe on the following night.
In the evening Muanga's drum-band met us, to honour us with
a tattoo, and to accompany us solemnly on the following
morning into the capital.
The early dawn found us, as usual, on the march. A broad
378 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
road led us over two more ridges of hills, now ever in a
southerly direction ; from all sides crowds of people came
hurrying along, either to offer us joyful greetings or in
respectful silence to watch us as we marched by. To the right
I noticed a line of buildings, which looked, from a
Approach . . - ,
to the , distance, like pyramids, but were m reality cone-
capi a . ^ g]ja,ped. I learned afterwards that they were funeral
monuments of Mtesas and the kings of the Wakintu dynasty.
Suddenly, a handsomely-dressed servant of Muanga's hurried
up to me, murmured a few words, and vanished as swiftly as
he had appeared. Marco informed me that he brought a
message from Muanga, which expressed the anxiety of his
master to see me at once. This was repeated three or four
times.
A hill now rose up before me, on which I perceived some
buildings. This, I was told, was Mengo. At the bottom of
this hill we wheeled round towards the left hand, to turn into a
banana grove, where a flourishing plantation had been set apart
for us for our temporary abode. I quartered my soldiers in the
huts, but had the tents set up for ourselves, according to my
custom. I then made a hasty toilet and shaved myself, ready
to present myself before the king.
Every five minutes messengers appeared from his majesty,
always repeating the same entreaty, that we would come as
quickly as possible, — the king was dying of eagerness to behold
us. This is Uganda courtesy, with which we were here made
Solemn pro- acquainted for the first time. We dressed ourselves,
cession. ^^^ ^j^g soldiers, with a few selected porters, were
marched up. With the flag borne in advance, we went slowly
along the wide road up to Mengo, to pay our first greeting to
Muanga, the Mfalme and Kabaka of Uganda.
The farther we advanced up the hill, the more dense became
the throng. On the top of the hill was an enclosed space, like
a meadow, into which we entered through a gate. To right
and left were drawn up Muanga's soldiers, presenting arms,
lining the approaches to an impromptu hall of audience, built
of reeds. The roll was beaten on European drums, and
MUANGA, LOURDEL, GORDON, AND WALKER. 379
trumpets were blown, while we passed slowly through the line
of soldiers, saluting as we went. At the entrance of First
the hall my Somalis were drawn up on guard, and we of Eng^
stepped forward into the closely-packed area, filled with "^^^.nga.
the great men of Uganda, who sat or stood against the walls to the
right and left. As soon as we had come inside the hall a man,
still young in years, and dressed in complete European costume,
rose from a seat at the far end of the room. His dark eyes
were fixed on us with a kindly look ; a dark beard surrounded
his face, which had quite an European cast. His nose and
mouth were regularly shaped ; the latter certainly was rather
large, but was remarkable for faultlessly white and beautiful
teeth. His whole appearance had in it something which was,
at the first glance, both agreeable and sympathetic. This was
Muanga, King of Uganda, known for a long time past in the
European press as the " bloodhound " Muanga. He nie king's
wore a coat, trousers, and waistcoat of black and white ^pv^^'^^^"^-
check, which gave him the look of a well-to-do European
gentleman in summer costume.
"Step this way," he said, in fluent Suahili (Karibu), ad-
vancing at the same time a few steps towa,rds us and pressing
our hands. " How are you ? Take a seat ! " pointing to two
chairs which had been placed for us at his right hand.
At this moment I was addressed in French by a gentleman
whom, at the first glance, I should not have taken to Father
be an European. He was dressed in a .long white ^<>^^^^^-
garment, and had a small red cap on his head.
" Je suis le pere Lourdel, et je vous ai envoye des lettres."
This, then, was the Superiorof the Catholic Mission in Uganda.
He told me at once that he had only come over from Bulingogwe
on the previous night, and that they had all, for the moment, esta-
blished themselves, in a makeshift way for the time being, round
Mengo. Immediately upon this, two more Europeans appeared
in the doorway, and greeted us in the English language. ^^ ^^^^^^
These were Messrs. Gordon and Walker. During the and M^r.
formal ceremony of this reception, I witnessed the
spectacle of my old friend Kamanyiro Kanta crawling on all
380 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
a
fours to greet the king, according to the ancient Waganda
custom ; his majesty, however, received the homage with extra-
ordinary coldness and indifference.
" I rejoice, Muanga, to behold the Kabaka of Uganda," were
the words with which I opened our conversation. " I have
Address to joumejed from the east up the Tana, past Mount
the king, ggj^ja, and have had to fight with the Gallas, the
Massais, and many others, and learned in Usoga that Emin Pasha,
to whom I was marching, had gone away with Stanley, and that
you were in need of help from Europeans. Therefore I have come
across the Nile and marched hither through your territory."
" I have heard that you have beaten the Massais, and I know
that the Germans understand war and are all soldiers. I wel-
come you. I am glad that Germans especially should come to
visit my country. Now tell me of your combats with the
Massais."
" The Massais are very savage," I said, " and are no friends
to the white men. They dared to make attacks on my expe-
Dr. Peters's ditiou, but we beat them back four times, killed a
explanation, gj-g^t number of them, burnt many of their villages,
and drove off plenty of their herds."
Muanga laughed, well pleased at this description.
" The white men are not generally liked in the east of your
land," I continued. " In Kawirondo, also, we were obliged to
beat the Mangati."
" That too we have heard about here," answered Muanga.
" Where have you your artillery ? "
" I have left my artillery behind with the Gallas. Perhaps
a second column of my expedition will march after me here, and
if so I hope they will bring my artillery with them ; if they do
I will make you a present of it."
" I thank you much," he said. " I hope you will stay here
with me, and wait for the second column. Anything that you
Muanga's ^^'i^ti to have in my country shall be yours ; only make
fnendiiness.jjj^Q^jj yQ^j. ^ig^gg^ g-ud Send direct to me when there
is anything you wish to have. I intend to have a large house
built for you close to my own."
CONVERSATION WITH FATHER LOURDEL. 381
" I cannot stay long with you, because I must go onward to
the German colony on the other side of the lake. If you choose
to send any message by me to the coast, and I can be in any
way of service to you, it shall likewise be done."
" I should like to send a message by you to the coast, but
we will not speak of that to-day."
Everything that Muanga said gave us the impression of
quiet, modest frankness, and when we parted from him at the
close of our half-hour's interview we carried away with us the
most favourable impression. We had imagined him to be a very
different man. Mr. Gordon and Mr. Walker accompanied us to
our tent, where, unfortunately, I could regale them with nothing
better than tea and coffee. Directly afterwards Mons. Lourdel
appeared, who stayed on after the Englishmen had gone away.
He soon turned the conversation on the state of affairs pgre Lour-
in Uganda, and gave me details of the English proposals, ^®^'° ^*®*°'
which, he said, had afterwards come to nothing, since Mr.
Jackson not only never came himself, but would not even send
powder and ammunition." I asked him, —
" Does the king wish for any kind of European Protectorate
at all ? "
" Certainly not. Even during the time of his banishment
from Uganda, we were only able, after much persuasion, to get
him to enter upon any negotiation of the kind."
"Well, then, he should address himself to the European
Powers, with the request that they would constitute his land
neutral ground, exactly as has been done in the case ^^ p^jgrg's
of the Congo State. If we could get the Upper Nile advice to
1j}i6 kin?
neutralised, all the European Powers would be equally
benefited thereby. Only Muanga would certainly then be
obliged to make up his mind to adopt throughout his territory
certain universally recognised principles of international law."
" Do you think that such a proposal on Muanga's part would
find favour in Europe ? "
" That I am unable to say. You know that I am sent out
by a private German committee to the relief of Emin Pasha, to
whom I thought of making a similar proposition. I have no
382 ^TEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA.
kind of commission for Uganda from my committee ; I have
Offer to 110 official Commission from Germany at all ; but if
posais^to*' Muanga is prepared to make proposals of the kind to
Europe. the European Powers, I shall be very willing, for my
part, to take charge of them and deliver them there. First of
all, however, Muanga would have to accept the articles of the
Congo Act for his own territory, and to furnish guarantees to
the Powers that the slave trade and the exportation of slaves
shall be suppressed in his own country."
" The king will be very ready to do that, for he hates the
Arabs, and, moreover, cannot witness with satisfaction the
dragging away of his subjects. Before we brought him back
from Usukuma to Uganda, we often held conversations with him
on this subject. In the meantime we should have to reckon
with the intrigues of the English in carrying out such plans."
" I cannot understand what interest England can have in
proclaiming a Protectorate just here in Uganda."
" England wants the monopoly of trade."
" Such a thing is not possible on the face of it, since Uganda
lies within the zone of land in which free trade is established by
the Congo Act. A Protectorate without a monopoly of the kind
would only be an expense to the English. If Muanga were to
Conflicting offer to US Germans the Protectorate of Uganda, and I
interests, .^^gj-g ^sked my opinion about it in Germany, I do not
know whether I should not decidedly advise the rejection of the
offer. England is in exactly the same position."
Thus I came to an agreement with Mons. Lourdel as to the
plan of our task on the very first morning.
In the afternoon, Herr von Tiedemann and myself were
invited to dine at the English station. It was situated to the
north of the capital, and was naturally of a very primitive
description, as all the former buildings had been destroyed in
the insurrection ; but the sensation of being once more the
guests of Europeans had in it, to our thinking, something
extremely delightful.
After the dinner Muanga 's minister, who bears the title
Katikiro, made his appearance, to hold some conversation with
DESIGNS FOR THE FUTURE. 383-
me on business. This personage was, like all the higher officials
in Uganda, still quite a young man, with a very ener- visit of the
getic and crafty cast of features, which did not make ^^^■^'^°-
an altogether pleasant impression. He asked quite openly, —
" What presents do you intend to make the king ? "
"I will give him from one hundred to one hundred and
twenty pounds of fine gunpowder, a Lancaster repeating rifle
with fifty cartridges, a thousand percussion caps, and a number
of small things besides, such as soaps, etc."
" And how long do you think of staying here ? We are
hoping for a visit of at least three to four months. Karema has
posted himself in the north, and may at any moment attack the
capital. So long as you are with us, this will scarcely happen,
for he has already retreated northward on the advance of your
expedition. Then, too, the fugitives from our Christian parties,
will be coming back to Uganda, from all directions, and our
position will be materially improved thereby."
" I regret that I cannot stay here from three to four montha
under any circumstances. I have no commission of any kind
to tarry here in Uganda ; every day my expedition costs Q^^ggti^^
50 marks {£2 10s.) in wages for my people. I am of length of
prepared " — (here I began to make a calculation) — " to
remain here until March 16th ; to-day is February 26th, — that
makes three weeks."
" This is not the 26th, but the 25th of February," said the
English missionaries.
"Excuse me," I said, opening my diary, "to-day is the
26th of February."
" Well, we make this the 25th of February," said both of
them.
It turned out afterwards that by some oversight we had
really got a day in advance in our calculations, and that the
Englishmen were right. I have, nevertheless, always kept to
our own reckoning in my previous account, because we were no
longer able to verify on which day the disarrangement of dates
had occurred.
"Be that as it may, we will fix March 16th, once for
384 NEW LIGH't ON DARK AFRICA.
all, as the day of my departure from Uganda. I have not
enough ammunition to be able to propose to the king that I
should attack and beat Karema and the Wanjoro in the north.
If Karema, on the other hand, should advance towards the
south, I should be prepared to support Muanga with my whole
expedition, and, if he wished it, I would take the com-
Heoessity r ' '
for disci- mand of his people. If I am to do that, however, I
^"'*' must request that I shall be allowed to drill the
soldiers, and, above all, the officers of his troops, every day from
this time forward, so that they may become accustomed to our
method of fighting."
After a long consultation, Katikiro declared himself satisfied
with this agreement, which, to a certain extent, was concluded
under the guarantee of the English mission, and which after-
wards was accepted likewise by Muanga and the Roman Catholic
party. By March 16th, I was confidently assured, the boats
should be on the spot, to transport me over Lake Victoria to
Usukuma.
On the following day there was another solemn reception
held by Muanga, when I presented him with the gifts I
Second ^^^ brought. Muauga was exceedingly pleased, for
audience of the hundred pounds of powder enabled him to provide
five hundred of his soldiers once more with ammu-
nition for a fight, a thing that under existing circumstances
might be of the greatest importance to the maintenance of
his throne.
In the afternoon Herr von Tiedemann and I, dressed in
uniform, paid a visit to the Catholic mission. Here we were
introduced to Father Denoit by our acquaintance of the previous
day. Father Lourdel. While Father Lourdel was an
Visit to •' '
the French extremely energetic-looking man, with strong features,
we beheld in Father Denoit, who may have been about
thirty years of age, a figure that recalled St. John, with a mild,
gentle face, with dark beard, the eyes of an enthusiast, and a
very sensitively-formed mouth. Both of them belonged to the
Algerian Mission, the so-called " White Brothers," and Father
Lourdel had been already labouring for ten years in Uganda.
THE CATHOLIC illSSIONS ON LAKE VICTORIA. 385
On my asking if he did not feel a longing to go back once
again to his home in France, he replied, — " We have come here
to die ; we shall never return to our country."
He could have had no foreboding at that time how soon
these words of his were to be fulfilled. He was accustomed to
say also, " Si nous sommes en bonne sante nous ne voulons
pas, et si nous sommes malades nous ne pouvons pas retourner "
("If we are well in health we will not, if we are ill we cannot
return").
I expressed to him my admiration of the courageous self-
sacrifice shown by his Order. In the years during which that
Order had laboured by the lake it had lost fifty per cent, of
its brethren by sickness. I said to Father Lourdel, —
" People talk so much of us travellers, of Emin Pasha,
Stanley, and others ; what you are doing here is in .
reality much more heroic, and you do it exclusively for kmds of
your great Ideal. Your names are scarcely mentioned
by us in Europe ; and the ambition which urges others on never
enters into your calculations."
" We expect to receive our reward after death, if the Lord
wills it so."
I have learned to know the work of this Catholic mission,
everywhere round about the lake, in Uganda, on the Sesse
Islands, and Usukuma, and I must express my sincere admira-
tion for the achievements of these men. For the very reason
that they have taken on themselves the vows of poverty,
obedience, and chastity, because they may not possess ihorough-
any property of their own, nor ever look forward to cathoUo
returning permanently to their homes, they have ™""°"s-
a double interest in making their stations as comfortable as
possible ; and as they receive very little assistance from
Europe, they are compelled to develop, to the utmost of their
power, the natural advantages of the country. As the Protes-
tant missionaries on Lake Victoria really work there only
temporarily for salaries, and since they have before them the
desire of returning, sooner or later, to England, and after that
of finding some little provision awaiting them in London, they
'2r,
386 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
are themselves less identified with the mission, they do not
take root in the land in the same way, and consequently cannot
be of so much use to the country. What I have seen of the
English missions shows them to be behind the French ones
in every particular. The Catholics have everywhere large
and convenient houses, covered by far -projecting roofs, with
pillared verandahs, which enable the inhabitants to protect
themselves from the heat of the sun, and to take bodily exer-
cise even in rainy weather. At these mission stations I found,
everywhere I went, gardens, in which not only tropical vege-
tables, but all kinds of European vegetables were grown.
While the English missionaries were obliged to live
means of just as the uatives do as to food, the Roman Catholics
enjoyed European potatoes, bread and butter, cheese,
which they made themselves, brandy manufactured from burnt
bananas, colerabi, turnips, greens of all kinds, pineapples, oranges,
and other fruits for dessert. While the English lived in badly-
built houses, every Roman Catholic Father or Brother had his
own cool whitewashed room, and they assembled for their meals
in a pleasant refectory. As they cannot obtain any European
labour in the country, and yet wish to establish theinselves
comfortably there, they are obliged, as indeed they are en-
joined to do by the rules of their Order, to use all possible care
Mechanical ^° training their people to work. If they want to have
ingenuity tables, chairs, kitchen utensils, they must get them
developed. ', , '. ., , / / , „
made by their pupils, and they have, therefore, a
particular interest in teaching the people to make these articles
properly. Hence again the system of freres, or brothers,,
serving for this purpose, is also especially practical, one or
more of them are attached to each station. A settlement of
industrious and skilled workmen is formed in this way by
means of the Catholic mission, which consequently exerts a
most beneficial influence upon its surroundings, and upon the
whole land.
It is true that on February 27th there was not much to
be seen of the Catholic station in Uganda. It had been
destroyed by the Arab faction, and only the foundation walls
PRTVATE INTEBVIEW WfTIT KIXG MUAMrA. 387
were left standing. Mons. Lourdol, like all the rest, had been
obliged to domicile himself in a makeshift lasliion, and
received me in a hall surrounded by a fence. Here we Mers
partook of tea, to which Monseigneur Lourdel con- ^'''"'"■
tributed a tin of sardines in oil, a rare treat for us, and one
which recalled memories of our distant home.
From the Catholic Mission we returned, under the convoy
of Mons. Lourdel, to King Muanga. I was desirous, as soon as
A Missionary at the Plough.
possible, to convert the arrangements which I had drawn up the
day before, in concert with Lourdel, into accomplished facts,
and for that purpose I had asked for a private interview with
the King of Uganda. We found Muanga, attended by only a
few of his followers, sitting in a room of one of his houses,
which sprang up like mushrooms in daily increasing numbers.
Access is gained to the interior of the palace through a ^. „
~ _ J ~ _ King Mu-
perfect labyrinth of courts, passages, and gateways, in anga's
which it is customary to station the soldiers of ^^ ^'^'
Uganda by day and night. Close by are buildings erected for
388 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the king's women and for Ms other court attendants. The
whole place produced upon me an impression such as I always
associated in imagination with the court of Attila in Hungary.
All the buildings are of unplaned wood, but their spaciousness,
and the great number of the rooms, give them an appearance of
grandeur and suitability.
When we entered Muanga's presence, he, at my request,
dismissed all his servants, and, without my asking him, he sent
Private iuto the adjoining rooms to see if there were any
wit-hth7 persons there who might overhear our conversation,
^■^g' P^re Lourdel then whispered my proposal in the ears of
Muanga, whereupon Muanga took hold of Lourdel by the ear
that he might in turn whisper his reply. The result of this
somewhat singular interview was Muanga's declaration : —
" If the Doctor will carry my message to Europe, I am willing
to make a treaty with him, in which I resign, in favour of the
Germans and the other Europeans, the right of the Mfalme that
the people of Uganda may only travel, carry on trade, and
build houses by his permission. I am also prepared to sell my
Muanga's ivory to noue but the German Company, if they will
declaration. gypp][y jj^g jj^ exchange with powder and ammunition.
I will be the servant of no European. They shall all have
■equal rights in my country, but I prefer to conclude friendship
with the great Sultan of the Germans alone. If the Doctor will
•draw up a treaty to this effect, I will sign it, and I will see that
all my chiefs put their names to it too."
This was exactly what I was aiming at. If I succeeded in
binding the King of Uganda to such promises, I believed that I
.should do great service to the whole European cause.
Everyone who reads the accounts of travel in Uganda
knows what restrictions on their freedom of movement are
encountered by Europeans in this country. Felkin and Stanley,
Emin Pasha and Juncker, have all experienced this. If the king
accepted the principles of the Congo Act, the country would for
the first time be really thrown open to European traffic. And
that must be to the common advantage of all the nations who
have any interests on the coast territory.
TREATY WITH KING MUANGA. 389
I immediately repaired to my tent with Mons. Lourdel, and
proposed to him the following draft of the treaty, which, with a
few alterations in the style, susreested by Lourdel, has
been retained. I he treaty was drawn up m French, in a treaty
the language of Kiganda and in Kiswahili, and it was p'^'p*'^^*-
afterwards signed in all three languages. I have inserted it in
the appendix in the French and Kiganda text ; and I subjoin
here a verbatim translation : —
"Mengo, Feb. 28th, 1890.
" Between King Muanga, Kabaka of Buganda, and Dr. Carl
Peters, the following preliminary treaty has been agreed
upon : —
" The King Muanga accepts the decrees of the Berlin Treaty
(Congo Act) of February 1885, so far as they have reference
to Buganda and its tributary countries. He throws open these
countries to the subjects of His Majesty the German Emperor
as to all other Europeans. He guarantees to the subjects of His
Majesty the German Emperor, as to all other Europeans who
may wish to avail themselves of it, entire freedom of trade, and
the right of travel and settlement in Buganda and all tributary
states.
" King Muanga enters into friendship with His Majesty the
German Emperor, and receives for his subjects per- Articles
mission to trade, with the right of free passage and of pga^'nja
settlement in all the territories of His Majesty the treaty.
German Emperor.
" Dr. Carl Peters undertakes to propose the ratification of this
preliminary treaty to the German government.
" This treaty is drawn up in Kiganda, Kiswahili, and French.
In case of any disputed interpretation, the French text alone
shall be considered as binding."
On the following day, February •28th, we finished the three
drafts of this treaty ; and on March 1st I went again to
Muanga with Mons. Lourdel, and was received by the king in
his cabinet council. He had with him his two ministers,
Cyprian, the minister of his household, called Kanta, the real
390 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
minister of state, Katikiro, with a few other great men. I laid
Interview before them the principal heads of the treaty, explaining
•with the ^Q them that since Uganda had become Christian,
ministers ^ -it
of state, and the Christian party was here in the .ascendant,
it was necessary to frame the treaty in its general particulars
according to European principles.
" The European powers," I continued, " in a treaty which
was concluded in Berlin in 1885, have come to an agreement
concerning certain general principles of law respecting Africa.
I wish to see these accepted also by the Waganda, and I have
accordingly drawn up the following treaty," which I then caused
to be read aloud in the Kiganda language. " I now call upon
you to sign it."
The king and Cyprian Kanta signed immediately, after
Muanga had declared that he wished to enter into the same
Signing of relation to the European powers as that in which the
the treaty, g^^^an of Zanzibar stood towards them.
The Katikiro, the leader ■ of the English party in Uganda,
refused to affix his signature, saying that he wished
Katikiro's first to talk over the affair with Messrs. Gordon and
refusal. --.y ,,
Walker.
This brought the whole matter to its second stage. The
refusal of Katikiro had now made a conflict necessary, to bring
the treaty to a full recognition by the government of Uganda.
I was the more determined to carry the matter through,
when in Uganda the great importance of these countries from a
political and commercial point of view became abundantly clear
to me. Ivory comes pouring in, to Uganda, in the form of
tribute, and as an article of trade to be exchanged for food and
other things, from all the states to the north and west of Lake
im ortaut ^i^toria, as far as the Albert Nyanza, to be despatched
trade of from Uganda across Lake Victoria to Tabora and the
coast. A good part of the trade of Uganda, which cannot
indeed be calculated, but which anyone who understands African
aff"airs may estimate from the fact that from sixty to eighty
Arabs have settled in this country, has to do with the customs
levied along the coast by the German trading company. The
TRAFFIC ON THE VICTORIA NYANZA. 391
same thing is shown by the quantities of European weapons, of
ammunition, stuifs, manufactured ivory, and other articles to be
found in Uganda. For all these articles have come, in the last
place, from the coast and from Zanzibar, to be sold in exchange
for ivory. The Arabs in Uganda cultivated the closest relations
with their co-religionists in Tabora, and carried on, as „
o ' ' Prooeed-
factors, the exchange of goods between that place and ings of the
Uganda, and indeed beyond Uganda to the north. As
I was able to ascertain, gunpowder was carried to Unjoro by
means of the Kimbulus in Busiba (Karague), and, as I was told
in Uganda, even to the Mahdi himself. The whole traffic,
therefore, of the Victoria Nyanza lies in the Tabora trade ; and
all great commercial and political disturbances in Uganda must
accordingly make themselves felt immediately in the traffic and
barter on the coast, and also in the revenue drawn from the
customs of Bagamoyo and Dar-es-Salam. The Uganda ivory
filters through a thousand channels, apart from the direct expor-
tation of the pm'chased goods across the lake to the south. It
is the great medium of exchange for these regions, and passes
perhaps through six, seven, or even more hands before it reaches
Tabora or Irangi, where the Arabs have likewise settled ; and
arriving at the coast, is absorbed into the commerce of the
world. This internal trade is engaged in, among others, by the
inhabitants of the island of Bukerebe, whose carvans of traders I
have seen myself both in Busiba and also in Usukuma. They
pay with fish and articles of iron, which they, on their side,
exchange again in Usukuma. I think that in estimat- j^po^tant
ing the political and commercial affairs of East Africa ^^^^^^^t''
too little stress is laid on this internal trade among the
tribes. In it lies the chief investment of the slave trade. But
there is another series of products, which have, as it seems,
been exchanged for centuries between tribe and tribe. Thus
Usukuma supplies hoes and iron goods to the tribes as far as
Usoga. We sometimes met caravans coming from the south-
east, as we were marching through the steppes. When I asked
them, " Where to ? " they answered, " We are going to
Usukuma." " What do you want there ? " " We want to buy
392 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
hoes " (yembe). In this way it is that the barter trade of
Uganda along the coast defies all direct calculation. It can
probably be ascertained only in Uganda itself. But the facts
-which I have mentioned above leave no doubt of its importance
as a whole.
As Uganda is entirely shut off from any approach from the
east, the promotion of traffic in Uganda, which I had most urgently
pressed upon Muanga, would in the first place be of the greatest
advantage to traders from the German territory, but would in
the end be of service to every nation that desired to enter
Arbitrary iuto any Undertaking in these countries, — among others
by the*'°"° especially to Mr. Stokes, whose agents I had met in
idngs. various places round the lake, and to the English
missionaries, who after the ratification of this treaty were
preserved from the fate which had often befallen them before,
namely, from being forbidden by the king, for months at a
time, to leave their houses, even to take a walk, which had
happened to Messrs. Gordon and Walker ; or from being sud-
denly banished from the kingdom, as Mr. Mackay had been ;
and from many similar restrictions of personal freedom.
I was therefore the more surprised when Mr. Gordon and
Mr. Walker, who dined with me on the evening of March lOth,
ob'ections ^^^^ ^^ ^^^* ^^^^ must dispute Muanga's right of
of Gordon entering into negotiations with a third power, since he
and Walker c^ o r ' ^
had already placed himself under British protection.
On the other hand, this objection certainly gave me a welcome
opportunity of formally and definitely bringing the affair to
a conclusion.
I therefore wrote, putting a formal question to King
Muanga. The English had told me, I said, that he was de-
jjj, pg^g^j.g pendent upon the British East Africa Company, and
letter to had uo longer the right to conclude treaties with any
other persons. Before I could proceed further in the
affair, I must first know how this matter stood, as I had no
intention of carrying an invalid treaty back to Europe. I must
beg that not only Muanga, but also the great men of the
country, would declare whether they were dependent (watuma—
DR. PEIERS'S SPEECH IN THE COUNCIL. 393
slaves) on the English, or ^Yhether the king had still the same
right as that enjoyed by Mtesa.
Meanwhile, on March 2nd, the treaty was signed in the
house of Mons. Lourdel, and afterwards in my tent, by all the
great men and governors of provinces of the Catholic Great as-
party, who formed the majority in the country. On ceSdnytte
the morning of March 3rd Muanga assembled a state ^^^^^■y-
council, to which were invited all the great men of the land, and
also the princesses of the house of Wakintu, as many of them,
namely, as had escaped the murderous hands of Karema. I was
the last man to arrive. The two Englishmen did not know
what was the business on hand. Muanga first disposed of a
number of less important matters of state, appointments of
governors, and so on. Then I rose, and spoke to the following
eifect : —
" I have come hither, at your request, to help you against
the Arabs. I have become Muanga's friend and yours. We are
all Christians ; we all know the words of Jesus and love them ;
the white men and the Waganda are quite the same. It is
necessary, therefore, that the Waganda should acknowledge the
same things to be right towards us white men, which we in our
countries acknowledge to be right towards them. When people
from Uganda wish to come to Germany, they could travel, and
live, and carry on their trade wherever they choose ; and they
can do the same if they go to France or to England. I demand
that you Waganda should grant the same right to us Europeans ;
not to us Germans only, but to all Europeans, to whatever
nation they may belong. Muanga has declared himself fuu free-
.,,. •' . •' , . , 1 ■ 11 ti/tj. I- J- dom of resi-
wilhng to give up the right claimed by Mtesa, or tor- aenee for
bidding the white men to travel or trade in Uganda,'"^"' "'''•
or of banishing them out of the country whenever he likes.
He has concluded a treaty with me to this effect. In this
treaty he asks for the friendship of the great Emperor of the
Germans. Now the Englishmen who are sitting here by me
come to me and say, Muanga and the Waganda have no longer
any right at all to make such treaties; they say that the
Waganda have become the slaves of the English. Therefore
394 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
I ask the question of you Waganda — Have the Englishmen
spoken what is the truth ? Then I will tear up the treaty.
Or have they spoken what is not the truth ? Then declare it
now openly."
These words called forth such a storm of indignation against
the Englishmen from the whole assembly of the
Excitement 5^, ^„ _„ ,., inii
in the Waganda that I feared for a moment it would lead
assembly. ^^ ^^^^ ^^ violence. Then Muanga sprang up from his
throne and said, addressing himself particularly to Messrs.
Gordon and Walker, —
" You have heard what Dottore Patasi has said. Now tell me
yourselves whether his words are true ; whether you really did
go to him and tell him what he has stated, or not."
A little taken aback, Mr. Gordon now explained that
certainly the king had accepted the flag of the British East
African Company, and that that was the same thing
don's ex- as accepting the British Protectorate. Such, at least,
p ana ion. ^^^ their interpretation of it, and that was what
they had told me.
To this Muanga made answer, —
" You all know that when we were on the island of Lake
Victoria, we sent messengers both to Stanley and to Mr. Jackson,
Mnan a's ^^y^^S' '^ome and help us, and we will accept the English
plain flag, and grant to the English a monopoly of trade in
speec . Ugaiicia.' The Englishman alone was to be allowed to
trade in Uganda. Bring me back upon Mtesa's throne, and it
shall be as I have written. What happened then ? Stanley,
who came from Unjoro with Amdallemin, refused to listen to
the entreaties of his Christian brothers, and made a wide circuit
round Uganda. Mr. Jackson, who had been staying with many
soldiers for a long time in Kawirondo, not only did not come
himself to our assistance, but .did not send a single cartridge or
a handful of gunpowder to help us ; and now the Englishmen
say that because Mr. Jackson sent me his flag in a parcel I must
consider myself to be under British protection. The only people
who have come to our aid are the Doctor and the Germans
(Badutschi). If I placed my land under any one's protection,
OFFER OF ASSISTANCE AGAINST KIMBULU. 395
it would be under that of the great Emperor of the Germans.
But I will remain like Mtesa, I will belong to no one. They
shall all be welcome in Uganda. If the Germans desire to
•come, let them come ; if the French wish to come, let common
them come ; if the English wish to come (and you can Ilf e^/o-''
write this to Mr. Jackson), and wish to have the same p^^°''
right as the Germans, they shall be equally welcome. But if
they wish to ' eat up ' my land, I will make war upon them, for
we Waganda will be free, and I will remain what Mtesa was."
This speech was received with what in Europe we should
call "enthusiastic applause," in which the whole assembly
joined, with the exception of a few leaders of the English
party.
Every one sprang up and pressed forward to shake Muanga
by the hand.
I then rose for the second time.
" I have heard your words, 0 King ! and I see that you and
jour chiefs are agreed, and I know that you and all your chiefs
will sign the treaty. Hear now what I intend to do to show
jou that 1 am really the friend of the Waganda. I hear,
Muanga, that to the west of Lake Victoria there are still Dr. Peters
■enemies, allies of Karema, who refuse to pay you the figh^t°°^^
tribute which they owe. I am told that, in Busiba par- ^imbuiu.
ticularly, there is Kimbulu, who gets gunpowder from Unyan-
jembe for your enemies in Unjoro. If you want to make war
in the north, you must first of all have the whole south in your
power. I am ready to help you to do this. Give me some
boats and a few men, and I will force the people of Busiba to
acknowledge you, Muanga, as their lord, to pay you tribute, and
banish Kimbulu out of the countl-y. In this way I think to
secure for you a safe communication with our German colony
•and with your friends the Christians on the coast."
The king laughed aloud for joy when I had ended my
speech, and the other Waganda, including Gabriel, the com-
mander of the Waganda troops, came up to thank me for my
offer. Then Muanga rose once more and repeated, " that all
may know it," —
396 KEW LIGHT O.V DARK AFRICA.
" I am the son of Mtesa, and what Mtesa was in Uganda
that will I also continue to be, and against every one who will
not have it so I will make war."
He then turned round suddenly and disappeared
assembly through a door at the back of the hall into his private
dismissed. a^pg^j.|.jQg^j-g^ thus putting an end to the sitting.
Upon this the stream of people, led by M. Lourdel, rushed
to the house of the Katikiro, the leader of the English party.
I preferred to take no part in this assembly, by which
Katikiro's Katikiro was to be forced to add his signature, and I
°^^^' withdrew to my tent. The crowd meanwhile demanded
of Katikiro that he should either sign the treaty or resign.
In the afternoon Messrs. Gordon and Walker came to me
and informed me that the deputation had very nearly come to
blows, and that the temper of the people had been inflamed
to such a degree that they feared the evening might witness
a general butchery.
" Show us the treaty," they said ; " we will read it, and then
decide what we ought to do."
They then at once read the text, and it was Mr. Walker who
said to Gordon, " I really think we should get our people to
sign to the affair."
I answered, —
" You must know best what attitude you ought to take up.
I attach no importance to the signature of the chiefs, because
Expiana- the king's name legally binds Uganda with regard to
other states. Moreover, in case of any collision
between the two parties, which I should extremely
deplore, and which I am resolved to endeavour to prevent, I
offer you a refuge in my camp. For my own part, I shall give
orders to fire on whichever party fires the first shot."
I then wrote at once the following letter for Mons. Lourdel : —
" Mengo Rubaga, Mars Uh, 1890,
" BiEN CHEE Monsieur, — J'apprends que les deux parties
chretiennes vont faire guerre entre elles-m6mes.
" Je crois que ceci sera la fin de la dyHastie, par ce qu'il
tion to tlie
mission-
aries.
DR. PETERS'8 LETTER TO MONS. LOURDEL. 397
enforcerait k FAngleterre la necessite d'une occupation, et je suis
sur que vous ferez tout ce qu'est dans votre puis- Letter to
sance pour pacifier les coeurs de nos hommes et ™- ^''°'^**'-
emp^cher des actes de violence.
" J'expecte avec beaucoup d'interet la reponse du roi sur ma
proposition.
" Veuillez agreer, mon cher monsieur, les sentiments les plus
respectueux de votre serviteur
" Carl Petees,"
(TRANSLATION.)
" Mengo Rubaga, March ith, 1890.
" Dear Sir, — I am informed that the two Christian factions
are on the point of commencing hostilities against each other.
" I think that this would be the end of the dynasty, because
it would force upon England the necessity of an occupation. I
am convinced that you will do all in your power to tranquillise
the minds of your people and to prevent any outbreak of
violence.
" I await with much interest the answer of the king to my
proposal.
" I am, dear Sir,
" Respectfully and faithfully yours,
" Carl Peters."
On the evening of this day, all the great men of the English
party, with the Katikiro at their head, came and signed the
treaty. On the other hand, I received a reassuring communica-
tion from M. Lourdel, to the effect that they, the missionaries,
were there to do the works of peace, and not of war, and that it
was a matter of course that they would make every effort in
their power to secure peace ; which indeed was not in any way
threatened, as no one meditated resorting to acts of violence.
The conclusion of my letter referred to a proposal which I
had laid before the king on March 3rd, in which I urged him to
398 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
place his admiral, the Djumba, at my disposal, in order to
get together as many boats as possible among the Sesse
Boats re- Islands, for the projected expedition to the west of
thf expedi- the lake. To give this affair more importance, I
tion. wished to send Herr von Tiedemann also to Sesse,
where he would find safe quarters with Monseigneur Livinhac
in the French mission station.
At the same time I drew up a short report, to the German
general consulate in Zanzibar, of the proceedings in Uganda,
and the treaty which I had concluded, and despatched it direct
to Usukuma, by a boat which the king had given me for the
purpose. My own sentiments during this time are shown in a
letter addressed to Dr. Arendt, written at the same time, and
sent with the report across Lake Victoria : —
"RuBAGA IN Uganda, March 7th, 1890.
"Dear Arendt, — You will, I daresay, have received the
telegraphic communication that my expedition had penetrated
to the boundaries of Emin Pasha's territory, when I received
the information of his departure iust in time to be able
Letter to i n i tt j
Herr to tum to the south-west and march to Uganda.
Arendt. g^^ictly Speaking, I had perfectly fulfilled my mission
in Wachore's capital, for, as Emin Pasha could testify, there was
no longer any difficulty in advancing from thence to Fauvera,
where Emin once had a station. At this present time I am
not very far away from Mwutan-Nzige, and could betake myself
thither at any moment if Emin Pasha were still there, instead
of the Mahdi and the rebels of the Equatorial Province. Emin
Pasha, or Stanley, or Dr. Felkin, or indeed any one acquainted
with the affairs of these localities would be able to confirm this
statement for me. In any other country I could do without
such a confirmation, since I myself know better than anyone
else with what tension of nerve this result was attained. In
Germany, I am anxious to have some such certificate to prove
that I have accomplished my task like an honest man.
" Without assuming to tell you anything new, I may also
DR. PETERS'S LETTER TO DR. ARENDT. 399
make the following statement. Three times during my expedi-
tion the English have crossed my path ; and each time, opposition
under very various circumstances, I have been for- overcome,
tunate enough to hold my own against them. The first time
they wanted to close the way to Witu against me, and after-
wards to prevent my advance from that place to the Tana. I
have put an end to English influence in Oda-Boru-Ruva, and set
up the German influence in its place. Then, according to Mr.
de Winton's prophecy, I was to find an English expedition at
Baringo. The English expeditions were obliged to turn back
in the steppes of the Upper Tana, through which I made my
way, and the German flag now waves over Baringo. Lastly, the
English had already sent their flag to Uganda, and everything
was ripe for the British protectorate. The English flag is now
withdrawn from this place, and the king, Muanga, has recently
solemnly withdrawn from English protection, or rather from his
consent to it, and I am bringing back with me a treaty of
commerce and peace.
"I have had occasion, in carrying out this expedition, to
fight, one after another, the Wagalla, Wandorobbo, Wadsagga,
Wakikuju, Massai, Wakamasia, Waelgejo, and Mangati tribes.
None of these tribes have been able to check my Advan-
advance, and they have all learnt to fear the German thf Ger°-
flag. I have attained this result with fifteen Askaris "^'^ *^^-
and about fifty bearers ; and with articles of barter collected in
Lamu from the refuse of the stock of the encampment, which
had been described to us as probably sufficient for the march
between Tana and Oda-Boru-Ruva. Such, my dear Arendt, is
the German Emin Pasha Expedition, from the Bay of Kwaihu
to the capital of Uganda :— Tana, and Baringo, and the Nile !
" The most important achievement of the expedition is un-
doubtedly the affair of Uganda. It was 1884 over again, but
in a grander style. ... I tell you these things, my dear
Arendt, not from any feeling of boastfulness, but because I
desire to make my standpoint clear in the sight of all men. For
I cannot tell>hether I shall return, having now undertaken the
task of clearing the west of Lake Victoria of the Arabs, and if
400 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
my cartridges hold out I intend afterwards marching on Unjan-
jembe, to observe for myself the position of Tippoo Tib.
" An effort has been made to hinder me from taking any share
in my old work ; and Fate has given me its revenge in truly
grand fashion. If I fall, it shall not be in faint-hearted fashion,
but proudly, and the German flag which I have carried thus
far shall be spread over me for a pall. I have always been
anxious, in my own way, to raise it to honour. That I have
differed from the majority of my countrymen in my idea of the
manner in which this was to be effected has been not the most
unimportant reason of the hatred and vituperation which I have
encountered in Germany. But I love the black, white, and red
flag none the less passionately on that account, and for the rest
a good deal of the blame is my own. . . .
" Uganda, a splendid country, is at present trodden down by
war. . . .
" With kindest regards,
" Yours,
" Gael Petebs.
" PosTSCKiPT, March 8th. — A former servant of Emin Pasha's
is just now sitting by my side. I have to-day succeeded in
gaining from Muanga the prohibition of the export of slaves
from his country. — C. P."
I sent to the Englishmen in Kawirondo a copy of the treaty
in French, accompanied by the following letter : —
" Dr. Peters begs to enclose the above copy to the gentlemen
of the B. E. A. A. Expedition, with the information that King
Expiana- Muanga yesterday, at a public meeting, at which the
toThe*"^"^ gentlemen of the English Mission attended, has declared
English, himself free from any engagements which the B. E. A. A.
may claim upon his letters addressed to Mr. Jackson, as the
conditions, he thinks, have not been fulfilled which he made
his terms under the protection of the abovesaid Company.
" Dr. Carl Peters leaves this entirely to be settled between
the two parties, and thinks that his treaty does not injure the
rights of any European nation."
PLEASANT QUARTERS IN UGANDA. 401
On March 6th I received the king's decision concerning my
proposal of collecting boats at the Sesse Islands. Muanga
declared himself willing to send his admiral thither, and to
allow Herr von Tiedemann to travel in the same boat to the
French Mission. I accordingly at once gave instructions to
Herr von Tiedemann to hold himself in readiness to start on
the following morning. The Djumba, however, did not appear
at the time appointed, and Herr von Tiedemann had to defer
his departure until the following day.
On the morning of March 8th he betook himself, with his
personal attendants, to the shore of Lake Victoria,
opposite to the island of Bulingogwe, and already on of Herr von
the day afterwards I received the information that he ^^''^"°'*""'
passed the night in Bulingogwe, and expected to arrive in
Sesse in three days.
I myself removed on March 8th, together with all my
people, to a charming country house which the king had given
me. It stood in a banana grove on the eastern slope of Rubaja
hill. The house consisted of three large rooms, built of cane
reeds after the Indian fashion. The kitchens and ser- , ,
J ... ... A pleasant
vants offices were established m the adjoining houses, camping.
As is usual among the Waganda, the courtyard con- ^""
sisted of a number of squares, with partitions of twisted reeds.
The houses for my column stood at the entrance of these court-
yards, so that I had all my men around me, and yet was
completely private and undisturbed. From the flagstaff by
the principal gateway waved the great German flag. I may
mention in passing that I had four sentries on duty day and
night in Uganda, round our camp, according to my principle
of considering a surprise, from whatever quarter it might come,
as a downright disgrace to myself.
On March 9th I had the great pleasure of making the
acquaintance of Monseigneur Livinhae, who had come jj„„ggj
over from the Sesse Islands to visit the newly-esta- neur Livin-
. hac
blished Catholic Mission. Monseigneur Livinhae, like
so many of his brethren in these countries, is a strikingly hand-
some and dignified-looking man, with a magnificent long black
26
402 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
beard. A crucifix, set with brilliants, hangs down over his
white cassock. I found him to be a ver)' cultivated man, of
great delicacy of feeling, and entu-ely free from prejudice ; full
of enthusiasm for the cause he served, and possessing a clear-
sighted intelligence as to the great changes which are taking
place, at the present time, in African affairs.
I had the pleasure of seeing him for the first time on
March 8th. On Sunday, March 9th, we dined together at the
Catholic Mission ; the crown of the feast was a bottle of
Algerian wine, brought by Monseigneur Livinhac, — a rare treat,
which, together with the animated conversation, put us in a
frame of mind that was almost European.
During the following days, I began to take in hand another
great question of principle with respect to Uganda. If
Muanga and his party wished to participate in the
and the European and Christian system, it was absolutely
'necessary that he should take his stand, on prmciple,
on the anti-slavery movement. Chiefly on account of the
great beauty of the women of Beyma, Uganda had formerly
been one of the greatest centres of the slave trade. Between
March 9th and 16th Monseigneur Lourdel and I succeeded in
obtaining from the king the following solemn declaration, which
brought the whole matter to a conclusion : — ■
" Moi, Muanga, roi du Bouganda, j'afRrme, en presence de
Monsieur le docteur Carl Peters, et du R. P. Simeon Lourdel,
Muanga's que j'interdis la traite des esclaves dans le Bouganda,
cerning""' and les pays qui en dependent ; and que je ferai tout
slavery, j^qj^ possible pour empecher I'exportation des esclaves
de tous les pays qui me sont soumis.
" Muanga, Kabaka du Bouganda.
" Simeon Lourdel, de miss. d'Algers, Superieur
de la Mission Catholique.
" Dr. Carl Peters.
" Mengo, le 16 Mars, 1890."
This decree was issued at the same time in the Kiganda
2[r^AX(rA PLEDGES HIMSELE TO REFORMS.
402
language, in which it was announced to the chief men of the
country, at a solemn public assembl}".
To bring out more clearly the Christian sentiments which
underlay this decree, I induced the king, in a formal memorial
addressed to the signatories of the Congo Act, to request the
*'" '*^jj|^ife
MONSEIGNEUR LiVINHAC.
neutralisation of Uganda and the territory ot the Upper Nile in
the spirit of the Congo Act, and to pledge himself to make
Christianity the one dominant religion in all his dominions.
The king appointed me his plenipotentiary for the negotiations
concerning this matter, in case I should consider, on my return
to Europe, that there was any prospect of their leading to a
404 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
practical result. The Christian religion was, moreover, for-
prospectsofmally proclaimed as the religion of the state, by the
thesupre- decree that all government appointments should be
macy of " / ^ t i 1 1
christi- filled by Christians only, and that, accordingly, all
^'"'^^' heathens who refused to be converted to it must
resign their appointments. This decree was carried out in
Uganda to the fullest extent, and it was in this way that my
The queen's old friend Kamauyiro Kanta lost his province. The
Ifficiair queen-mother, Mtesa's widow, who had herself remained
dismissed. ^ heathen, was obliged, although I was on very good
terms with her, to dismiss all her court officials who adhered to
the old belief, and to surround herself with a retinue of Chris-
tians, a proceeding which was anything but agreeable to her.
Mohammedanism, as such, was simply forbidden, under penalty
■of death. Heathenism was tolerated, but Christianity alone was
in every respect to be the dominant religion.
I co-operated very zealously in all these matters, because I
•considered that these measures were suited in every respect to
the existing condition of affairs in the north of Lake Victoria.
Mohammedanism received its deathblow by the prohibition of
the slave trade. It had to be forbidden in Uganda because it
aimed openly at the extermination of Christianity ; and if it
were in any degree tolerated it could have easily gained the
ascendency, supported as it was by the neighbourhood of the
great Mohammedan powers in the north. Heathenism, from a
political point of view, might be tolerated, if only its followers
were prevented from holding any positions of influence in the
country. To give them such positions would be dangerous,
jTeoessity because in the old heathen religion a supernatural
0^ Mm a - ygjjeration was paid to the dynasty itself, and it was
heathenism. ^jjgj-gfQj-g ^q ^g assumed that although Muanga went
with the Catholic party, there yet existed in that ruler a strong
attachment to his former religion, which might easily become
dangerous to the development of Christianity, unless the latter
held in its hands the control of every department of the state.
If heathenism were dealt with everywhere as we dealt with it
in Uganda, it Mould hold something like the position which it
.-1 CULTIVABLE AND IJIPROVABLE LAND. 405
occupied about the middle period of the Roman Emperors, and
there is no doubt that it would very soon fall to pieces.
In order to deal a blow at Karema's party, I tried to induce
the king to set a price of fifty frasilas of ivory upon his head,
and to grant to all his -followers, if they would abjure
Mohammedanism, an amnesty and permission to return Lourders
to Uganda. I did not, however, pursue this idea, owing "p""""-
to the representations of Mons. Lourdel, who said that in the
utter absence of all truthfulness here no one would believe either
that the price promised for the head of Karema would be paid,
or that the amnesty would be observed, and that therefore an
announcement of this nature would be unpractical. I certainly
had not thought of that.
But in spite of all this, I had during these few weeks in
Uganda the great satisfaction of being able to observe the rapid
advance of the country in prosperity. In the north of Mengo,
the daily market had been re-opened under lofty trees ; and
every day saw fresh crowds of Christian fugitives from every
quarter streaming back to their home. Houses and villages
sprang up on every hill, almost like blossoms after a
spring rain. The fine broad roads, which had become of the
overgrown with grass, were soon cleansed again, and "''"'' ^^'
presented the trim appearance which is peculiar to all these
settlements. Digging and planting went on everywhere ; and
as, strangely enough, our entrance into the country had been
accompanied by a return of the rain, every place seemed to
burst out at once into verdure and bloom. The members of
both confessions betook themselves at once to building places
of worship. The symbol and the blessing of the cross were to
be seen everywhere.
This was to me the greatest satisfaction that I could possibly
have received, for 'all the dangers and anxieties of the journey.
Whenever I showed myself in public, which I always did with a
certain display of ceremonial, men and women crowded round
me rejoicing, to salute me, and thank me for the help I had
brought them. I felt deeply moved during these hours and
days, when I reflected what might be made of this country, so
406 .V/:Tr LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
highly favoured by God, if it continued in the paths of industry
under European influence, as it had shown itself happily
disposed to do during these weeks of my stay.
As I was so entirely isolated, and generally lived alone, I
Acquaint- had leisure enough, after my political labours, which
the cJ^nuy never took up more than a few hours of each day,
and people, ^q gtudy the couutry and the people, and to become
acquainted with their manners and customs.
I could not, of course, arrive at any definite conclusion
in these respects ; but for the very reason that I saw Uganda
under such peculiar circumstances, my observations may be
found not entirely devoid of interest.
If nations may be divided into two classes, those which are
destined to rule and those which are compelled to obey, the
Waganda belong unquestionably to the former class. Proud
even to passionate vindictiveness, brave and courageous even
to cruelty, they have within themselves that instinctive feeling
of their superiority over others which is the natural and in-
dispensable condition of sovereignty. It is not very long
since the King of Uganda looked upon himself as the first
„ ., , monarch of the world, and looked down with an equal
Pride and ' '-
ignorance contempt upou white men and Arabs. Mtesa was un-
sophisticated enough to ask for the hand of a daughter
of the Queen of England in marriage, and thought he was
conferring a great deal of honour in so doing. The English
missionaries prudently kept back in Usumbiro the document
containing this proposal. But the individual Waganda also, how-
ever submissive he may be at home to the despotism of his
Mfalme, understands perfectly well how to command when he
is abroad. I had several opportunities of remarking this, both
in Usoga and on my journey round Lake Victoria. There was
with me as guide 8tephano, a young servant of the Katikiro's,
and I was delighted to see with what authority this man, who
behaved like a slave towards me, ordered about hundreds of
rowers from Wausu, and how he, standing alone, gave his com-
mands to men of the western tribes. This gift of authority is,
as it were, in the blood of the Waganda, and this superiority is
SUPERIORITY OF TEE WAG AND A NATION. 407
nowhere denied. " Oderint dum metuant " is most assuredly
the only practical motto for Africa, and seems indeed to be the
accepted principle of the continent in the treatment of other
people.
In the development of their intelligence, the Waganda un-
doubtedly excel every other African nation. The missionaries
have assured me of the fact, and I had occasion my-
self to remark with what quickness they caught up ties of the
and assimilated ideas. In contrast to all other negro ^*sanda.
tribes, the Waganda feels the necessity of progress. Christianity
has spread among this people with amazing rapidity, when once
the superiority of the white race was understood ; and in its
train have come the arts of reading and writing. The mis-
sionaries of both confessions agree in their descriptions of the
eagerness with which the Waganda presses forward to be taught.
How utterly different from the morally and mentally degraded
Uwangwana on the coast, or the stupid Usukuma and Mjammesi.
In the Waganda there is fire, appreciativeness, and intelligence,
and without question this tribe has a future before it.
It is true that these advantages are accompanied by a
number of faults. I never saw the simple impudence of which
Emin Pasha complains. " Other times, other manners ; " and
it certainly makes a difference whether you come to Mtesa as
a private individual, or to Muanga at the head of an Eespeot
efficient military expedition ! On the whole, with ^y resoiu-
Christianity there has come a greater respect for th^ *^°"^-
white race which introduced it. The superiority of the white
man, as I said before, has become clear to the Waganda, and
they are eager to learn from us as much as possible. But their
desire to hold a certain rank leads them to despise common
unskilled labour, and, since they must live, they have re-
course to begging or stealing. In a country where private
property is entirely at the mercy of the ruler's caprice, the
chief spur to honest solid acquisition is wanting, and the
dangerous blessing afforded by the perennial banana, which,
without demanding any cultivation to speak of, bestows every-
thing necessary for the support of life, has naturally intensified
408 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the general inclination to idleness. These fortunate people
only need to build houses, for which the reeds of the country
supply a convenient material, and to weave their cloth-
Life easy m ^^ •' T 1 1 f i • -IJ £
waganda- ing stuffs, mbugo, froHi the bark ot a certain wild hg-
^^''^' tree ; the rest of their time can then be wasted merrily
in a doles far niente. The unripe banana, when dried, yields
the finest white flour I have ever seen. I prefer the ugali (or
broth) made with banana flour even to that made with wheat
flour. Or again, the green banana may be roasted, and yields
a dish not unlike potatoes baked in their skins ; while one
. . variety of banana, when ripe, is boiled in the skin, and
Capacities •' ^ ■ i • i
oftheba- when it is afterwards peeled it makes a preserve which
has exactly the taste of our stewed pears. For dessert
a capital dish is afforded by the ripe banana, peeled, cut in
half, and baked in a pan with butter and sugar ; prepared in
this way it is certainly quite equal to our European dish of
apple cake or tart. There are other ways of cooking bananas,
not to speak of the various effervescing drinks which are ob-
tained from this fruit, from the light muenge (tamo tamo),
which resembles champagne, to the heavy intoxicating varieties
of pombe ! Truly, the gods could not have bestowed a more
valuable gift on the countries on the northern shore of Lake
Victoria than its vast banana groves, which afford an easy and
pleasant means of subsistence to millions of people. But, as is
said to be the case in the South Sea Islands, this gift of the too
easy provision of the necessaries of life is attended with dangers
not always overcome, even by the restless energy of this race.
The traveller in Uganda must look well after his goods and
chattels, especially at night, and will do well to harden himself
against the begging of high and low. Unless he does this, he
will not carry much away with him from this country.
The form of salutation among the Waganda is lively and
cheery. When two acquaintances meet, one of them says, as he
Customs of grasps the other's hand, " Otiano." "Eh," replies the
civility, other, in a grunting tone ; and now arises an interchange
of complimentary grunts— "eA," "eh," "eh," "eh," "eh," "eh,"
varied with an occasional "otiano" the voice in diminuendo
CUSTOMS;— THE NATIONAL DRUM. 409'
tones. The method of giving thanks is by falling flat on one's
stomach, and holding the two hands palm to palm, waving
them in a slanting direction through the air, uttering over and
over again — " Niansig, nianzig, nianzig."
As might be expected from the lively, sanguine temperament
of the people, a love of music is strongly developed among
them.
Stanley translates Uganda as meaning " The Land of
Drums." I have vainly sought to discover any justification for
such a translation. On the contrary, Uganda means in Kiganda
the brother, and Uganda should therefore be translated the
" Brotherland," analogous to our German word " Fatherland."
But if Stanley's interpretation be etymologically incorrect, it
can certainly be justified practically, for Uganda is indisputably
a land of drums in the fullest sense of the expression. Drum-
ming goes on there day and night, from one end of the land to
the other. The hilly country, with its surrounding heights and
its echoing valleys, to a certain extent invites this proceeding.
Indeed, from the heights of Mengo or Rubaga the country
may be governed by means of signals given by beat of drum,
certainly for a circuit of five miles around. This is fully taken
advantage of at the royal court. Muanga has a whole house-
ful of the most various kinds of drums. By means of these
the greatest variety of signals can be given, which are im-
mediately understood by all the country round. Often ^^ ^^
when Gabriel, the head of the army, was with me, he ganda
would suddenly get up and say : " The gates are bemg
closed," or " The king wants to see me," or " The Askaris are
ordered to dance," or something of the sort. And when I
asked him, " How do you know that ? " he would answer, smil-
ing, " Ngoma '" (" Drum "). The drum used in war is especially
effective, even to a European ear. Three drums, tuned in
fifths, are beaten in a peculiar roll, which has a solemn,
dignified, and at the same time menacing effect.
Next to the drum the various kinds of flute are very plenti-
ful in Uganda, both reed and wooden flutes of all kinds and
sizes. An orchestra of flutes in Uganda is extremely comic.
410
y/:]]' Ljnnr on dark afrka.
ilUSICAL
THE
Muauo-a
Six or more gentlemen, with
portentously solemn expression
of conntenance, but Avithoiit the
slightest pretension to tune or
time, pla}' against each other,
every one choosing his own
air, and endeavouring with all
his might to play down all
the others. It seems that the
different flutes belonging to a
waganda band of this kind are
flutes. tuned according to
some kind of method, for instru-
ments of various pitch, some
higher and some lower, were
always to be recognised ; but the
general effect produced was a sort
of " charivari," that made us in-
voluntarily raise our hands to our
ears. Besides this, the Waganda have
stringed instnunents, horns, and even
very full-sounding specimen in King
s collection of instrmnents. Together with these
MUSIC AND ARCHITECTURE IN WAGANDA. 411
instruments the singer makes his appearance. He recites to the
accompaniment of a drum, beaten by himself. He appears to be
performing love-songs, or songs in praise of the Msungu, or of
some of the chiefs who are present. While singing the love-
songs he smiles significantly, or accompanies his chant with a
rhythmical dancing movement, without, however, moving from
his place. The Waganda also sing in chorus, not unmelodiously ;
sometimes rather plaintively, sometimes with a wild and shrill
sound. You never quite lose the feeling that they have picked
up a fragment of a tune, like parrots, but that they do not know
how to put the different parts together, so as to blend them into
a real and complete melody. It is always a beginning, but
never comes to any completion, as if they were trying Musical
to utter something they wanted to say, and could never „{ "^^r'*^*'
find the right expression for it. However, my visit to waganda.
Uganda was at too serious a time to allow me to form a proper
opinion as to the joyousness and love of singing inherent in
these people. There was dearth in the land, and war stood on
the threshold. Such a time is not very favourable for singing
and dancing merrily. But still the population streamed back
into the land, day by day, in ever increasing-numbers. Every-
where building was going on, fields were being tilled, and on
the whole T was able to gain, I think, a very fair idea of this
side of the national character.
The houses of the Waganda chiefs are very tastefully built ;
they are generally neatly made, entirely of reeds, in something
resembling the Indian style of architecture.
My house at Rubaga, into which, as I have already men-
tioned, I moved in the second week of my stay, presented at the
front and at the back two semi-circular halls, in which I esta-
blished myself very comfortably. The centre was occupied by a
large, partially-darkened room, which was approached ^^^^^^^
from a third side by a door which could be locked, architeo-
,. , . T ture.
The trim little house was enclosed by a square ot bigti
fences made of matting, above which only the lofty trees of the
banana grove appear, near which the house was situated. The
courtyard was again divided, by similar fences of matting, mto
412 ^^EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
diifereiit parts, one of which contained the house used as our
kitchen. Three doors on three sides led from the outer fence
into tlie open countrj'. Before one of these doors, at about ten
or fifteen paces distant, lay the houses for the slaves, in which I
quartered the Askaris and the bearers. I had installed my own
servants and the kitchen in the separate parts of the courtyard,
so that I had all my people at hand, and yet was entirely alone
and undisturbed. It is certainly the pleasantest style of build-
ing that can be imagined for these countries. As the court-
yards are paved with hard-trodden clay, the most scrupulous
cleanliness can be maintained throughout.
The houses of the slaves and of the poor consist, like those
of the Bantu, of huts shaped like haycocks, and entered by a
door with locks or fastenings, and supported inside by a peculiar
arrangement of pillars. The Waganda are extraordinarily skil-
skiifui ful in house building. Give them three or four days,
builders. ^^^^ whole villages appear where before there had been
a desert. In Mengo not only reception halls of colossal dimen-
sions arose, as it were, out of nothing, in the course of a single
week, but also hundreds of houses for the guards, drummers,
and slaves of the king.
Besides this aptitude for building, the Waganda, as Emin
Pasha has observed, have a great turn for blacksmith's work.
At Rubaga there is a smithy of this description, which I
visited' The men were working there almost exclusively with
European tools, and, in my opinion, with almost European skill.
I had occasion myself to have several guns repaired here, and
among other things it was necessary, at one time, to replace in
one of the magazine guns a lost part of the machinery, by
which the cartridges were rapidly thrown out after the weapon
had been discharged. In every case the work was done in a
neat, Avorkmanlike manner. This particular trade is still held in
honour in this place. The owner of the forge had lately been
appointed one of the chiefs of the land. The Waganda im-
port their iron either from Unjoro or from Usogora, on the west
of the lake, or in the shape of iron wire from the coast. No
minerals of any kind are obtained in Uganda itself.
PROSPECTfi OF UGANDA TN THE FUTURE.
4K
The facts 1 havi' thus brouglit forward show that in all pro-
bability we have before ns, in this lively ami hearty jieople, a
Household Uteksils of the Wacjanda.
rising race, whicli has a future before it in the development ol
Central Africa. They pass their lives in their own mountnin land,
414 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
mth its vallej's and heights, like the Thuringians, loving song
and merriment. But here are imprinted, more deepl}' than in
Cruelty of the German race, the dark featm-es of bloody revenge
the people. g^jj(j j^putal Cruelty. In Uganda we are within the
limits of the dark despotism of Central Africa. The stranger
marvels at the number of human beings he encounters who
have lost one eye, or both ears, or their noses, or lips ; but the
missionaries have stories to tell of much worse things. Every-
thing in the whole of this country belongs to the ruler alone.
He issues his command, and the people at once bring him their
cattle, daughters, and wives. He commands, and hundreds of
his subjects are dragged off to the place of execution, and there
put to death with fearful tortures. The limbs of the victims
are hacked oif one by one, roasted before the very eyes of the
unfortunate sufferers, who are then forced to eat their own
flesh. The mutilated trunk is then slowly roasted, and every-
thing is done to prolong the agony as much as possible. This
is what Mohammedans and Christians have had to live among
here, and only recently, with the introduction of Christianity,
has the state of things taken a turn for the better. And
yet this country is both in climate and scenery cheerful and
beautiful, so that one wonders how, under these skies, such
bestial cruelty can have established itself.
According to Father Lourdel, the thermometer in Uganda,
even in the hottest season, which is in February, never rises.
Climatic ^^°^^ ^^° ^- (^^° Fahr.) in the shade ; while in the
advantages coldest period, July, it sinks to 13° C. (55° Fahr.)
gan a. ^^ ^^^ night. Strange to say, Uganda belongs, in
its seasonable periods, to the southern hemisphere, while
geographically it is in the northern. Moreover, there is
not such a sharp division into a dry and a wet season as.
in other tropical countries, although the precipitation of rain
is greater than usual between the months of March and May..
It rains irregularly at all times of the year, owing to the
Tropical influence of the lake, and the embraces of sky and
tempests, ^^^^j^ ^^^^ ^iere of an extraordinarily fiery character-
Nowhere have I met with such numerous storms of thunder
WAGANDA CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 415
and lightning, or of so violent a kind, as in Uganda. During
a storm one can almost say that the space of time between the
flashes is shorter than the time covered by the flash itself ; it
flickers continually like a gas flame in an autumn wind. It
is accompanied by short rolls of thunder. Even when we had
not thunder-storms just overhead, the horizon in one direction,
generally to the north, was in flames every night in March.
But the earth here shows herself grateful enough for the blessed
rain of heaven. Everything blossoms and flourishes, and I am
convinced, as are the missionaries, that the land here is able
to bring forth, without exception, every product of the tropical
and temperate zones. I will only mention the excellent
Uganda cofifee, which we drank regularly, and which anrproLo-
grows wild here. Herr von Tiedemann bought fifty *^^^''^='-
pounds of it for, I believe, four arm-lengths of stuff" ; I find no
difference between this and Mocha coffee. Besides this I must
mention tobacco, and sugar-cane, manioc, red sorghum, peas,,
beans, batatas, etc. At the Roman Catholic mission station
every kind of European vegetable is grown. The country is
also extremely healthy, no missionary having died here before
Mons. Lourdel, and for lung diseases Uganda is probably as
much to be recommended as Madeira.
And now, whence come the inhabitants of this land ?
Whence have they their peculiar characteristics and their
superiority in culture over the other Bantu races P ^ . .
for that they are of Bantu stock there is no question, the
as the construction of their language proves it ; but *^*° *'
among this original population a second element has been
introduced, which came from the north. Emin and Felkin
call these people from the north Wahuma (inhabitants of the
north), and I found in Uganda the probably identical name
Beyma in use. In Usukuma the Massais are called Wahuma,
and this word is identical with Wasukuma itself, which signifies
nothing else than North-folk. These Beyma came long ago
from the far north, passed over the Nile, not far from Mruli,.
and conquered all the country to the north and west of the
lake. They founded here a great kingdom among the Wakintu,,
416 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
from whose race springs the present dynasty of the Uganda
kings. Their kingdom extended as far as Mwuta Nzige, and
southwards to the north end of the Tanganyika ; and the
countries of Usoga, Uganda, Unjoro, Meru, Usagara, and Uhha,
in the south, all belonged to it. In Uhha the Beyma race still
exists, pure and unmixed. In the north they became absorbed
into the aboriginal population, or were sharply distinguished
from the general mixed race in the Beyma pastoral tribes.
These Beyma are still found in Uganda by hundreds of
thousands. They keep entirely to themselves, though their
The Bey- "^™Kien are everywhere sought for, on account of their
ma people, remarkable beauty, and through them the Beyma
blood is making its way everywhere. So far as I saw, the
Beyma were of a slender type, with dewy, dreamy eyes, and
features of almost a Caucasian cast ; their colour is light
brown, and their faces reminded me of the figures in an ancient
Egyptian temple. Felkin states that they were also called
Wawitu; an assertion that I was not able to verify. This name
would seem to point to a connection with the countries east
of the Samu. At present it is of the greatest importance to the
history of Central and North Africa to know whence come
the Beyma, and to what race they may belong. They' speak
Kiganda, but in an outlandish dialect. After a closer research,
however, I succeeded in proving the existence of a number
Com ari- ^^ '"'ords in their language, which are not Kiganda,
son of Ian- and SO may belong to the original language of the
guages. -pj -J- -. . -, (DO
Beyma. i here give these words, hoping that more
erudite men than myself will be able to draw conclusions from
them': —
nglish.
Suahili.
Kiganda.
Special Beyma.
clay
siku
naku
birro
God
mlmngu
katonda
Dubaga (or Eubaga,
like the former
capital of the Ugan-
da)
devil
slietani
Rubale
batwesi (rather, as it
seems, archangel)
LANGUAGES OF EASTERN AFRICA.
417
English.
Suahili.
Kiganda.
Special Beyma.
star
tonda
ratonda
iguru
sheep
kondoo
diga
ntc\ma
rain
mwua
mkubd
njtirra
how are you ?
haligani
otiano
mirembejo
honey-
asali na njuki
nubiss
bugeme
peace
amani
kwegaisia
kwesengelessa
hair
uelle
mwiri
soke
father
baba
sebo
tata.
Any. one who wants to obtain an answer to this question
must also examine the words which are common to the Kiganda
and Beyma, but differ from the Suahili, for it is quite
possible that words have crept into the Kiganda and xigan-
language from the Beyma. I must leave these en- *^ *'*^^''*''
quiries to experts, since of the Kibantu languages I only know
Suahili, and the tribes that differ from Suahili may simply be
the Uganda dialects of Kibantu. I will here give a few such
words, as specimens, which will perhaps repay examination: —
English.
Suahili.
Kiganda and Beyma.
ox
bird
wife
ngombe
ndege
manamke
nte, unte
njungu
mkasi
sultan
chUd
sultani
mtoto
kabaka (Beyma, mukama)
muana
night
soul
usiku
roho
kirro (comp. birro = day)
mtinsa
stick
fat
milk
war
fimbo
mafuta
masiva
mwita
mkoni (Beyma, mugo)
msigo
mdte (Beyma, matA)
baruana (Beyma, turuani)
I content myself with these specimens, because the enquirer
will doubtless find noted in Monseigneur Livinhac's grammar of
the Kiganda language other non-Suahili tribes in Kiganda.
Felkin is of opinion that the Beyma are of ancient Abyssinian
origin, and I should be inclined to believe that they belong to
the Somali of the "Wagalla race. They are unquestionably, like
the latter, an entirely pastoral population, and a few words of
27
418 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
their language sound to me like some well-known Somali or
Wagalla words. Thus hirro, day, is in Kisomal heri, in Kigalla
boru, to-morrow morning. Njurra, rain, is in Kisomal gdrrah.
I leave this point undecided. I own that I await, with the
keenest interest, the answer which will be given, by an Oriental
scholar, to the question thus raised.
Meanwhile, I may be permitted to bring forward the reasons
Ancient re- which have led me to suppose that there has existed
lations with jj^^gj-gQ^Pgg jjj ygj-y ancient times, between the lake
civilised ' •' ..,..„
countries, district, especially Uganda, and the civilisation oi
ancient Egypt.
1. It is a well-known fact that the ancients were acquainted
with the lakes of Central Africa. Aristotle, in his " Historia
Animalium," viii., 2, mentions in a brief and sober way, that
" the cranes migrate as far as the lakes beyond Egypt, where
the Nile has its source. There dwell the pigmies ; and this is
no fable, but the simple truth. Both men and horses, so says
report, are small size, and live in caves."
What seems to me remarkable in this passage is, that
Aristotle mentions the fact that the Nile has its source in the
lakes of the south country, not as anything new, but casually, as
something already known to his readers. The additional remark
" and this is no fable," etc., proves, moreover, that Aristotle had
his information about the nation of dwarfs from a source he con-
Ancient re- sidered trustworthy, probably from travellers ; and the
their teaoii- story has been shown in our own day by Schweinfurth
^"58- to be perfectly well founded. Schweinfurth also recog-
nised the nation of the pigmies in the tribe of dwarfs of the
Akka, to the south of Manbuttu.* Now, it is of course possible
that such information may have arrived in Egypt at third or
fourth hand. However that may be, the passage at least proves
a certain intercourse. Eratosthenes also, about 200 B.C., speaks
of the Nile as issuing from lakes.
Ptolemy seems to have had more accurate information, for
on his map he indicates two Nile lakes (the Victoria and
* Accordingly, it was not Stanley who first discovered the dwarf tribes
of Central Africa.
DOUBTS REGARDING THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON. 419
Albert Nyanza P), and marks down the Mountains of the Moon
to the south of the lake. These Mountains of the Moon, accord-
ingly, appear even before the Christian era, and are given in
somewhat uncertain form by every subsequent geographer.
Can it be doubted that these Mountains of the Moon point to a
knowledge of Unjamwesi ( Un land, ia form of the genitive, and
mwesi moon, thus making Land of the Moon), to the south of
the Victoria Nyanza, from which, as a matter of fact, issue the
last streams flowing from the Nile ?
Stanley thought, not long ago, that in the Ruwenzori he had
discovered the fabulous Mountains of the Moon ; but he gives no
reasons of any kind for his belief. He reprints the Stanley and
accounts of the Mountains of the Moon given by the tafnf of tie
ancients, but adds nothing to show why these accounts '^o""-
should be applied to the Ruwenzori ; while the ancient maps,
that he himself prints, flatly contradict his hypothesis, as they
one and all place the Mountains of the Moon to the south of
Lake Victoria. There is no great difficulty in selecting some
mountain or other, and saying, " Here are the Mountains of
the Moon ; '' and one man has pointed to this mountain, and
another to that. But the solution is evidently to be found much
nearer at hand ; and the fact of deriving the origin of the
name from Unjamwesi, the name of the country at the present
day, is supported above all by the places marked on the map by
the Greeks and Arabs. It is probable that Uganda traders learnt
that beyond the lake lay Unjamwesi, the Land of the Moon, and
brought this information back with them to Egypt. The deri-
vation of the name Unjamwesi itself is not quite clear ; the
mountains of Unjamwesi, seen from the east, are crescent-
shaped, and give something like the impression of the rising
moon. It may be that the name, Mountains of the Moon, may
be traced to this circumstance ; but that is not now to the point.
All that Stanley quotes from the reports of the ancients
■concerning these Mountains of the Moon belongs entirely to the
realm of fable, and may just as well apply to any other moun-
tain range as to the Ruwenzori. The mountain described in
these accounts is called, not Ruwenzori, but Kumr, and there is
420
NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
mention of caves and great buildings within it. It is well
. . , known that Thomson discovered large rock-cut build-
Ancient . . , _ , °
maps and ings both in Elgami and, in fact, in Elgon. It cannot,
of course, be proved that there is any reference to
these buildings in Elgami in the legends told of the mysterious
Unbekannt
Mondgehirrja
Cbntbal Africa, after Edeisi, 1154.
MITTELMEERa
Map of Sylvanus, 1511.
Map of John Euysch, 1508.
mountain Kumr ; but there is perhaps a clue better worth fol-
lowing up than that of the Ruwenzori, — which, by the way, was
discovered, not by Stanley, but by Casati. We cannot really be
induced to accept Ruwenzori as the Mountain of the Moon
simply because Stanley happened to march past it. If it is
ANCIENT :\[APS AND CHARTS.
421
granted, however, that we are justified in finding, in the reports
of the ancients concerning the Mountain of the Moon, the proof
that they were acquainted with Unjamwesi, we shall also he
forced to conclude that their commercial intercourse extended
as far as to the Victoria
1 ,, ... MABE MEDITERRANEVM
Nyanza, and that either
travellers had penetrated
from Egypt to the lakes, or
from the lakes to Egypt.
The latter is the more im-
prohable, and therefore the
historical expert will pro-
nounce in favour of the
former conjecture.
2nd. The name for the
Nile is, in Uganda, Kyira,
or Kyila, the " r " and " 1 "
in the Kibantu language
heing the same sound. In
Usoga also I found that
the word for Nile was Nyiro
or Nyilo. This is the an-
cient name for the river. Accordingly, the Nile, at the present
day, bears at its source the same name which it bore thousands
MARB
PRA^SOHYM
Map of Sebastian Cabot (16th Cbntuet).
Map op the Mae&aeita Philosophica, 1503.*
of years ago at its mouth. This may be explained, since it is
highly improbable that it should have happened by chance, by
* In all the maps given above the Mountains of the Moon are marked at
about the spot of the present Unjamwesi.
422 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the assumption either that people from the north travelled the
regions of its source, or vice versd, and that there must have
Theory been a time when men were acquainted with its identity
anoien?"^ at hoth cuds of the river. The force of this fact is in
relations. ^^ ^^y diminished by the circumstance that now im-
migrant tribes of later date, along the centre and upper course,
have given new names to the river. It is quite possible that
the old aboriginal inhabitants remained established only at the
source and at the mouth of the river, which, accordingly, here
retained the old name. This, again, can only be explained by
the supposition that communications existed in ancient times
between the territories at the mouth and those at the source of
the river.
3rd. There are at Mengo thirty-three royal tombs of the tribe
of the Wakintu.* In the most ancient of these are said to be
buried primeval records of the dynasty-. I was not only
tombs at informed of this by Muanga, but the missionaries con-
*"^°' firmed his statement. I tried to obtain permission to
have the records disinterred, but the superstition of the Waganda
is still so deeply rooted that Muanga, though in very courteous
words, refused my request. On the other hand, I received per-
mission to visit some of these tombs. Dr. Felkin tells me that
he has already seen the tombs, but he has not given- any descrip-
tion of them. I mention, first of all, that the number of tombs
being thirty-three does not prove beyond dispute that only thirty-
three generations of the Wakintu have ruled over Uganda.
From the statements of the Waganda it appears that the capital
of this dynasty was originally situated more in the neighbour-
hood of the Albert Nyanza. The name Kitarra, i.e., city of the
Wakintu, that remains to the present day in the north-west
of Uganda, seems to point to the conclusion that the race
originally ruled in that place. We cannot determine with
certainty the maximum, but only the minimum number of
ruling generations from the number of the thirty-three tombs.
* The title of the king, as has been before stated, is Kabaka, or Mfalme.
Might Mfalme perhaps be a Bantu modification of the Egyptian title
Pharaoh ? " L '' and " r " have the same sound in Kibantu.
TOMBS OF DEPARTED DYNASTIES. 423
These tombs are arranged in the following manner : On
approaching them from a distance the traveller thinks he sees
pyramids before him, but in reality they are in the form of
large cones, and are built of wood in Uganda fashion. On
entering, the visitor finds himself in a dusky hall, supported by
a row of columns. In the background of this hall is a painted
curtain, before which are ranged the weapons and favourite
movables of the deceased. On putting aside the curtain a dark
area is entered, from which shafts and corridors have been
excavated in the ground. In these passages textile stuffs, cowrie
shells, and other articles of value, which in Uganda „
represent money, are heaped up. At the farthest ex- in the
tremity of these passages is deposited the coffin, with ""^ °'
the embalmed corpse of the dead person. It appears that the
regular procedure for preserving the corpse is by drying it,
and swathing it tightly in wrappings ; but the Waganda also
told me that they understood the art of preserving the body
from decomposition by injections into the blood. In front
of the curtain twelve girls watch day and night on behalf
of the one last departed ; at present, therefore, for Mtesa.
From time to time all the great men of the land come to
the dead man, with drums and fifes, to pay him a visit, as if
he were alive.
What speculations may be founded on this.P Manifestly,
we have here to do with forms which are not met with, to my
knowledge, among any other Bantu tribe. How is it that just
the Waganda have this method of burying their dead ? I know
very well that customs of the kind exist also in Mada- Ancient
gascar, and that the old Aztecs had a similar practice of^Aztecs,^
of sepulture ; but these two regions of culture are too ^*''-
far away to allow of the idea of any communication with them.
It is much more probable to suppose here an influence from the
north, from Egypt. Certainly this proof has nothing absolutely
striking about it, but in connection with what I have already
cited a certain probability for my conjectures will always be
manifest.
I have already mentioned that Thomson found great rock-
424 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
cut buildings in Elgon, which, according to his description,
none but a civilised nation could have produced. The Elgon
rears its height in the north-east of Uganda. By whom could
Elgon rock such structures have been raised P Other relations
dwellings, j^a^y jjgj-e ije conjectured. Indians or Arabs might
have pressed forward from the east coast over the Baringo,
and have reared these buildings. The most probable conjec-
ture is, perhaps, here again that which points to Egyptians.
From an Arabian description of the Nile Stanley extracts
the following narrative, which is interesting, though it sounds
somewhat fabulous. (See "In Darkest Africa," vol. ii.,
p. 282.)
" Historians relate that Adam bequeathed the Nile unto Seth,
his son, and it remained in the possession of these children of
prophecy and of religion, and they came down to Egypt (or
Cairo), and it was then called Lul ; so they came and dwelt
among the mountains. After them came a son, Kinaan, then
his son Mahaled, and then his son Yaoud, and then his son
Arab ac- Hamu, and his son Hermes — that is, Idrisi the prophet
Anc^ent^ (Enoch). Idrisi began to reduce the land to law
^gypt- and order. The Nile used to come flowing down upon
them, and they would escape from it to the high mountains and
to elevated land until the river fell, then they would plant what-
ever country was left bare. Idrisi gathered the people of Egypt,
and went with them to the first stream of the Nile, and there
adjusted the levelling of the land and of the water by lowering
the high land and raising the low land, and other things accord-
ing to the science of astronomy and surveying. Idrisi was the
first person who spoke and wrote books upon these sciences.
He then went to the land of Abyssinia and Nubia, and gathered
the people, and extended the distance of the flow of the Nile,
or reduced it, according to the swiftness or sluggishness of the
stream. He even calculated the volume of the water and the
rate of the flow. He is the first man who regulated the flow of
the Nile to Egypt. It is said that in the days of Am Kaam, one
of the kings of Egypt, Idrisi was taken up to heaven, and he
prophesied the coming of the flood ; so he remained on the other
THE CAVES OF EL GUMI. 425
side of the Equator, and there built a palace on the slopes of
Mount Gumr. He built it of copper, and made eighty-five
statues of copper, the waters of the Nile flowing out through the
mouths of these statues, and then flowing into a great lake, and
thence to Egypt."
" Idyar el Wall says : ' The length of the Nile is two months'
journey in Moslem territory, and four months' journey ^^
in uninhabited country.' Its source is from Mount waii's
Oumr, beyond the Equator, and that it flows to the ^'""'™*-
light, coming out of the river of darkness, and flows by the
base of Mount Gumr."
"King Am Kaam, mentioned above, is Hermes I. The devils
carried him to this mountain, which is called Gumr, and there
he saw how the Nile flows out of the Black Sea and enters into
the Mountain of Gumr. King Am Kaam built, on the slopes
of the mountain, a palace, having eighty -five statues, to which
he collected all the water that flows from this mountain, con-
ducting it in vaulted conduits until the water reaches the
statues, and flows out of their mouths in measured quantities
and calculated cubic contents."
If these descriptions have reference to any real facts, would
one not naturally, at the sound of the name Gumr, be reminded
of El Gumi, in which the Elgon towers aloft with its Gumr and
unexplained and mysterious cave dwellings ? From "^"""
Mount Elgon the Nsoia pours itself into Lake Victoria, and on
in another direction, though at some distance from it, the Nile
flows past the slopes of the mountain. Could the imaginative
narrator have heard some confused rumours of magnificent
Egyptian undertakings in El Gumi, of which the caverns
discovered by Thomson are to the present day dumb but
eloquent witnesses ? In explanation I here give an extract
of Thomson's description of them ("Through Massailand,"
pp. 510 and 512).
"There lay before me a huge pit, thirty feet deep, one
hundred feet long, and about twenty broad, cut perpendicularly
out of a volcanic agglomerate of great compactness." In this
cave Thomson found entire villages. " On inquiry as to who
426 KEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
made this curious excavation, I was told that it was God's work.
'How,' said they, 'could we, with our puny implements' (ex-
hibitiiio; a toy-like axe, their only non-warlike instrument), 'cut
out a hole like this ? And this is nothing in comparison with
others which you may see all round the mountain. See there,
and there, and there ! These are of such great size that they
penetrate far into utter darkness, and even we have not seen the
end of them. In some there are large villages, with entire herds
of cattle. And yet you ask who made them ! They are truly
God's work ! ' . . . There was absolutely no tradition regarding
these caves among the people. ' Our fathers lived here, and
their fathers did the same,' was the invariable reply to all my
questions. . . . And yet the caves bore incontestable evidence
on the face of them that they had neither a natural nor super-
natural origin. They must have been excavated by the hand of
man. That was a fact about which there could absolutely be no
two opinions."
Thomson himself comes to the following conclusion : " Look-
ing at everything, I can come to but one conclusion, and that is,
that in a very remote era some very powerful race, considerably
advanced in arts and civilisation, excavated these great caves
in their search for precious stones, or possibly some precious
metal. . . . Are we to suppose that the Egyptians really got
so far south ? If not, what other race could have cut these
extraordinary recesses ? "
And now let us hear what the people in Uganda still, at
the present day, relate concerning the origin of the first Kintu.
The first Kintu came from the north to Uganda, and was in
every respect a supernatural being. He possessed the know-
ledge of all things, and brought civilisation and culture into
the land. After having given many proofs of his supernatural
greatness, Kintu married a daughter of heaven, and from this
marriage sprang the dynasty that at the present day still sits
on the throne of Uganda. (See Felkin, "Waganda, Tribe of
Central Africa," " Proceedings of the Royal Geographical
Society," pp. 764, 765.)
Thus we meet with mythical indications from Egypt con-
IDEAS FOR FURTHER INVESTIGATION. 427
cerning the undertakings of a remarkable man proceeding
southwards, and in Uganda we find similar mythical recollec-
tions of the appearance of a hero from the north. Even at the
present day we find in El Gumi magnificent monuments of
old civilised work, and in Arabian narratives we meet with
the name Gumri, which has a marvellous analogy in sound
with El Gumi. Do not these facts combine to prove that
there was a time when Egyptian enterprise actually extended
as far as the source of the White Nile ? The historic tradition
which still lives in Uganda tells of the conquest of the Historic
entire territory by a white race that descended from the a'^^iie^ °^
north, crossed the Nile at Mruli, and united the whole ^^''^^
region around Lakes Victoria and Albert into one great king-
dom. These are the herdsmen tribes of Beyma M^ho, as I have
stated, have remained to this day an unmixed race in Uganda,
being either of old Abyssinian origin, or at all events repre-
sentatives of nations from the north of Uganda. Does this
tradition stand in any connection with the old fabulous myths
which I have just mentioned, and according to which the son of
an Egyptian king assembled the peoples of Abyssinia and the
Soudan, to lead them to the source of the Nile ? And to what
a great historic revolution does not all this point !
I must confine myself to throwing out all these ideas as
problems for further investigations, and to suggest explanations
for which, perhaps, no real premises may ever be found, unproved
as they come to us only through the misty dawn of t^«»"«^'
prehistoric times. As memorials, there remain to us only the
rock-cut dwellings of Elgon and the sepulchral monuments
of the Wakintu ; but who can assert that these stand in direct
connection with each other ?
I sum up briefly, under the following heads, the result of my
own observations and conclusions.
1. Ancient Egyptian relations and civilising influences
spread, either directly or indirectly, as far as Uganda, and
their fame at least reached even to Unjamwesi (the Land of
the Moon). '
2. In historic times an immigration took place into Uganda,
428 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
of a race stronger than the Bantu, and they founded a great
kingdom, under the dynasty of the Wakintu, and from their
Summary of intermixing here with the aborigines has arisen the
ticfnslnd Uganda nation of the present.
conclusions. 3 Perhaps it was this very immigration which
brought about the cultured relations with Egypt to which the
graves of the kings seem to point. One might conclude that
these proceeded from nomad tribes of Southern Egypt or of
Abyssinia, perhaps under the leadership of an Egyptian prince
(Mfalme). Or it might be, that the trade relations of ancient
Egypt, extending to Lake Victoria, and this authentic immigra-
tion from the north, were separate from each other, and only in
Uganda became amalgamated into that system of Avhich obscure
traces can be still recognised.
4. The Wakintu are described, both in legend and tradition,
as coming of a far superior race, which brought the first begin-
nings of culture to Uganda, and in consequence are venerated,
to the present day, with divine honours. The members of this
dynasty still retain, according to their own belief, the gift of
prophecy, of which Mtesa frequently makes practical use. We
may conclude that in them and their surroundings the reason
may be found for the higher position occupied by the Waganda,
compared with the other Bantu, and for their country possessing
a proportionately greater history.
It was not possible for me to prove anything definite. It
would be necessary either to seek for exact information in
Egyptian hieroglyphic evidence, or, if the statement be true that
records exist in the most ancient tombs of the kings, to disinter
these records and decipher them. Were we to succeed in obtain-
ing accurate knowledge, a new light would be shed both upon
the history of the Egyptians and the development of affairs in
Central Africa.
*****
Amidst such occupations and conjectures the days in Uganda
passed away rapidly enough. In the afternoons I was in the
habit of taking longer or shorter walks with Mons. Lourdel ; or
the gentlemen of the English Mission would come to spend the
INTRIGUES OF TEE KATIKIRO. 429
evening with me. The afternoon hours I frequently spent with
Muanga, with whom I continued uninterruptedly to maintain
friendly relations. I also associated much and gladly with
other great men of Waganda. With the Katikiro alone
I could not get on a good footing. At the beginning he tiro and Ms
strove to win me over by clumsy flattery. Failing in °®''*™®'^*°-
this, he thought proper to adopt towards me the lofty demeanour
of the Prime Minister of Uganda towards strangers. Every
moment his servant Stephano brought me the message, " Kati-
kiro amekwita " ("The Katikiro sends for you"). At first I
would politely decline to go to him. At length the thing became
rather too strong for me. " The Katikiro? " "Yes, you are to
come to him immediately." " Ask the Katikiro whether he is
gone mad. If he wishes to see me, he can come to me ; if I
wish to see him I will go to him ; but I do not wish to see him."
This put an end to his intrusiveness ; but from that time forth
our meetings at court were of a bitter-sweet character.
In the English Mission in Uganda I had also found some
books, amongst them Shakespeare, and Gibbon's " Decline and
Fall," which I was accustomed to read. March 15th, the
day fixed for my departure, came round ; but nothing was to be
seen of the boats. Dr. Felkin is right in saying that it Difficulties
is easier to get into Uganda than to get out of it. On ^^ ^s»"**-
reading the accounts of travellers through this country we find
this statement fully verified.
Consequently, on March 16th I betook myself to King
Muanga, and said to him, " To-day the boats were to have been
ready for me. Where are they ? "
" I have received information," he replied, " that they are
already assembled at Sesse, and are on their way to Uganda."
" As they have not yet arrived, I prefer to go by land,,
through South Uganda, to Bunjako, and to reach Sesse in that
way. I intend to leave here on Monday."
" Wait another week," answered Muanga, "and if the boats
have not arrived by that time you can depart ; but I am certain
that they will be here."
" Very well, then, I shall wait another week."
430 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
On arriving at home I received a letter from Herr von
Tiedemann, confirming the statement made by Muanga regard-
ing the assembling of the boats.
But the next week went by, and again nothing was to be
heard of the boats. During this week I made friends with
A lady in Muanga's mother, the favourite wife of Mtesa, whom
Uganda, j yisited, and with whom I exchanged presents of
various kinds. She is a woman who can be really called a
lady, about forty years of age, of still youthful appearance, and
extremely agreeable manners.
On March 21st I informed Muanga that I had finally
decided to leave for Bunjako, opposite Sesse, and that I should
break up my camp on Monday, March 24th. On the 22nd,
just as I had finished dinner, and was smoking my pipe, the
king sent to me with the request that I would step across
to the court. I quickly donned my uniform and hurried off.
Important in the hope of at length receiving tidings of the
wUh the^ arrival of the boats. I found Mons. Lourdel and
king. Messrs. Walker and Gordon already in waiting. On
my arrival Mons. Lourdel informed me that a letter had arrived
from Mr. Jackson, which I should request the king to let me
see. Muanga sought at first, from what motive I do not know,
to prevent my reading the letter. On my repeated request,
however, he handed it to me, remarking, at the same time,
I was not to allow myself to be disturbed by its contents, as he
attached no sort of importance to it. I took Jackson's letter
in my hand, — and who shall describe my astonishment on
reading the following statement made by this gentleman ? He
had received information, he wrote, that Dr. Carl Peters and
Herr von Tiedemann had reached Uganda, on their march
towards Emin Pasha. He considered it his duty to inform
Mr Jack- ^^^^?,^ that these two gentlemen were sojourning
son's in these regions without the consent of their Govern-
letter .
ment. With the sanction of the German and Enghsh
Governments, he had undertaken the task of preventing their
further progress, and, if necessary, of arresting them. Being
absent himself, he now requested his friend Muanga to carry
2rR. JACKSON'S PROCEEDINGS. 431
out this arrest, as these two men had clone mischief enough
in Africa already. Moreover, he hoped soon himself to see
Muanga, as he was coming with five hundred men.
The letter was dated in the first days of March, and was
marked as being sent from Kawirondo. I have already stated
that I had repeatedly offered Mr. Jackson friendly co-operation
in these regions, that I had given him information concerning
the road to Uganda, and had loyally made known to him my
negotiations with the king. And this letter to the king of
Uganda was Mr. Jackson's reply ! He had been afraid to
march into the place with five hundred men, and knew Muanga
only as the murderer of Hannington and the persecutor of the
Christians. He now requested this ruler of Uganda, dreaded
by him, to arrest Herr von Tiedemann and myself !
Mr. Jackson must have known, by the whole tenor of my
expedition, what such a request meant. Above all, he must
have known that I would allow myself to be arrested Danger of
alive by no man, and that, on the other hand, Muanga, aassacre.
if he felt inclined to accede to the wishes of the English, would
(Certainly not have ordered simply our arrest, but would make
things safe by the massacre of our whole expeditionary force.
This did not deter him from sending such a proposal to Uganda.
I must confess, that the first sentiment I experienced on reading
this letter was one of contempt for the Englishmen in Kawi-
rondo, who appeared to me to be just the people, indeed, to stop
the German Emin Pasha Expedition, or even to arrest us !
Mr. Jackson, with his pedantic way of carrying through his
expedition, and his timid indecision, was the right man to
make an impression on me ! My second sensation was one
of heartfelt pain, that an Englishman should venture, painfui
here in Uganda, to claim the authority of the German sensations.
Government in taking measures against a German expedition.
It was not until afterwards that I ascertained that Mr. Jackson
was here speaking advisedly. On March 22nd, after reading
this letter, I could quietly inform Muanga, from my firm belief,
that this statement of Jackson's was contrary to fact.
" It is well known in what relation Mr. Jackson stands to me."
432 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
" Certainly, certainly ! " said Muanga, to whom this explana-
tion appeared quite plausible.
After we had all taken leave of the king, I again returned
to him with Mons. Lourdel.
Muanga once more took up Jackson's letter, spat upon it, and
threw it behind him over his shoulder. Then he said to me, —
" Jackson is my enemy, and I am the enemy of Jackson.
Now I am your friend. The Katikiro and the Englishmen have
Muanga's hecu here, and have urged me to invite Mr. Jackson
declaration, g^gg^^j^ to Uganda. If you like, take my soldiers, go to^
meet them, and do with them what you think right."
"This does not appear to me to be either to your interest or
to the advantage of us all," I replied. " It is in Europe that
whatever is to take place here in Uganda must be decided, and
Dr. Peters's it IS better not to let myself be hindered in my depar-
^^^^^- ture towards the lake. Mr. Jackson is in the habit of
marching very slowly, and who can tell when he may arrive
here, or whether he will come at all ? It is better that I should
acquire for you the lands on the west side of the lake, and
then make my way to th^e coast, to look after your affairs-
there."
" This appears to me the better way also," said Muanga. " I
have received intelligence that the boats have already reached
Ntebe. If you will, you can go thither and embark in them."
How right I was, in my supposition that Jackson would be
long indeed before he came to Uganda, was proved in the follow-
ing month. He did not arrive there until the latter half of
April.
In those days violent disputes took place between Muanga
and the Katikiro. Though Muanga was ready to permit
Dispute Jackson's visit to Uganda, he persistently asserted that
between he considered himself freed from all obligations towards
jxLuanga ana ^
theKati- the English, and that he had not the slightest inten-
tion to renew such obligations with them.
I gave orders that everything should be made ready for my
departure. On the afternoon of March 22nd I took a formal
leave of Muanga.
MUANGA'S LOYAL EXPRESSIONS. 433
"Tell the people of Europe," said he, "that in case the
English should form an alliance with their friends, the Arahs,
and attack me, I protest, through you, against every
act of violence on their part. If the English try to set message to
up their Protectorate in Uganda I shall make war ^"°p®-
against them. If I am beaten, I shall go forth with all my people
to another country. This I empower you to make known in
Europe, and do you come hack to me soon, my friend. I know
that you are my friend, and beg you to say this to your great
Emperor. I shall always remain the friend of those Europeans
who wish to live peaceably in Uganda, but especially the friend of
the German people. This I swear by God and by Jesus Christ."
" Farewell, Muanga. I came willingly to Uganda when you
called me, and have been glad to help you. You know for cer-
tain that 1 shall always remain your friend, and shall always be
glad to help you."
Then Muanga replied, " Accept my thanks for what you have
done for me and the ^Yaganda, and tell the Europeans and tell
your Emperor to send you to me again."
Contrary to his usual practice, Muanga accompanied me
to the outer gate of his palace. Another pressure of civilities of
the hand, and I hurried down the hill of Mengo towards ^^^ ^"^•
my camp.
Two hours later, a messenger from the king appeared before
me, with the announcement that Karema was marching from the
north, that he had burnt a number of villages, and that in a
day or two he might arrive before Mengo. Under these circum-
stances Muango warned me not to proceed along the land route
by Ntebe.
" Wait here a few days longer, until we receive accurate
intelligence."
" How does Muanga know this ? " I asked.
" The Katikiro is with him, and has brought the man with
him who came with the news from the north." intrigues
" Then tell Muanga, no announcement made by the of the
^ . . . Katikiro.
Katikiro shall prevent my carrymg out our arrange-
ments, and that I intend starting to-morrow morning."
434 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
I saw cleai"ly at once, what proved a few days later to be the
complete truth, that the Katikiro had made use of Karema's
advance as a ruse to induce the king to call Mr. Jackson to his
aid, and thus to serve the English cause. I was determined to
put a spoke in his wheel in this matter.
The next morning I betook myself, with my whole column,
which was kept in readiness for marching, in the first instance
to the Roman Catholic Mission, to obtain further information.
A heavy downpour of rain gave occasion for giving my men
refuge in the barns of the station, and deferring their march.
Mens. Lourdel informed me that the Catholic party, to which
Muanga belongs, had meanwhile received reports of Karema's
approach ; and soon after I received, in addition, an imploring
letter from Muanga.
" Stay in Uganda, my friend. Karema and the Arabs and
„ , Wanioro are coming. To-day or to-morrow we shall
Muanga's '' o .;
imploring have war. Do not forsake me in this need, and I shall
be eternally grateful to you."
My resolution was at once taken. I must not, under any
circumstances, quit Uganda until this matter had been decided.
On the morning of March 24th, believing a struggle to be immi-
nent, and hearing that the boats had reached Kasi, opposite
Bulingogwe, I first asked permission to send away the women
and invalids of our expedition at once as far as Sesse, where
they would be in safety under the protection of Herr von Tiede-
mann. This was at once granted, and the column set out, in
consequence, at nine o'clock, for Lake Victoria. Retaining only
Collecting twenty-five men at Uganda, I returned with these to
the forces. ^^ camp, and then sent to the king, requesting him
immediately to call together a general council of war, consisting
of the army and the great men of the Waganda. By one o'clock,
all Mengo and Rubaja were full of Muanga's picturesquely
adorned dancing soldiers. I then betook myself, with my
Somalis, to the ro3'al fortress, where the chief men of the land
were already ass^embled. A fantastic and spirit-stirring im-
pression was produced by the approach of the several troops of
soldiers surrounding their king. Carrying their muskets sloped
THE GREAT COUNCIL AND ITS OPINION. 435
over the right shoulder, one column after another came
dancing along, singing fierce songs, in which they swore de-
struction to Muanga's enemies, and fidelity to their king. The
entire assembly rose on my entrance, and • I addressed Muanga
as follows : —
" "Well, Muanga, Karema is advancing. This is good, for
to-day we can bring this whole matter to an end."
An approving laugh rang through the spacious hall. Then
I continued, —
" Weil, this affair must be cleared up. If Karema is in the
north of Uganda, burning your villages and driving away your
subjects, let us go forth this very afternoon to beat him Defiance to
and drive him back to Unjoro. If this pleases you, I ^^^^ema.
am prepared, with the few men that remain with me, to put
myself at the head of your army, and will undertake the
responsibility of overthrowing the enemy."
" The tidings are still uncertain," replied Muanga. " What
say you, Gabriel ? "
Gabriel, the commander of the Waganda troops, and my
very particular friend, prostrated himself before the king, ^^^^^^^ ^^^
and said, " 0 Mfalme ! the white man, the Doctori, is difference
right. Let us march northwards, and attack Karema."
Thereupon the Katikiro's confidential man arose, and said,
"We Protestants, when we returned with thee a few weeks
since to Uganda, bound ourselves to fight Karema and the Arabs
only in case they should attack your capital ; but we are not
bound to march to the north, and to attack Karema ourselves.
Tell Dr. Patasi to wait here until Karema attacks us in Mengo.
If he desires to go, however, let him await the arrival of Mr.
Jackson with the English expedition, when we shall be strong
enough to beat not only Karema, but the Wanjoro as well."
I rose and said, " We are strong enough as we are to beat
both Karema and the Wanjoro, and if the Katikiro and his
party do not wish to march with us, then let us go j,^ ^^^^^^
alone to attack Karema, or at least find out whether ^^ii^^'t;^"'^
he is in Uganda at all. If you do not like this either,
then send out scouts to bring in tidings from the north. If, as
436 XKW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the Katikiro asserts, Karema is really only one day's march
north of Mengo, the scouts can bring us news by to-morrow
afternoon. I will stay in Uganda till the tidings come. Should
this prove not to be the case, I will then march to Lake
Victoria to join my boats, and leave all the rest to you. This is
my determination. Now say whether it is good or not."
Muanga replied, " Thou hast spoken rightly. If the Kati-
kiro and his party will not join us in the fight, let us send out
scouts, who shall bring us tidings by to-morrow afternoon. If
they tell us that Karema is coming, fight with us against him ;
but if they report that the news is a lie, go to the lake, where
the boats shall remain waiting for thee in the meantime."
This proposal met with general acceptance, and I was told
it was immediately to be put into execution. Accordingly, I
Mr. wai- returned to my camp. That evening Mr. Walker, of
ker's visit, ^jjg English Mission, came to tell me that he did not
believe any scouts had been sent out. He was already inclined
to think that the whole matter was a fabrication.
I waited until the following afternoon, when Mons. Lourdel
called, to inform me he had received confidential information
that Karema was not in the country at all, and that the whole
story had, according to my former supposition, been invented
merely to frighten Muanga, and to force him once more to make
the offer to Jackson that he would accept the British Protectorate
in return for assistance. In the afternoon I received a letter
Gabriel's from Gabriel, which I still have in my possession. He
letter. wrote thus : " My scouts have just come in, and they
report that neither Mahdi, nor Karema, nor Wanjoro are in
Uganda, and that the whole thing is a lie. Leave here to-
morrow if you wish. If, on the contrary, you will stay here,
we shall rejoice."
I now gave decisive orders for departure the next morning.
That evening Gabriel spent at my supper table, where I regaled
him with tea.
We talked much of Germany and Uganda, and he expressed
a wish to visit me some day in Germany. But it would be still
better if I should soon return to Uganda, to arrange all matters
DEPARTURE FOR BULINGOGWE. 437
in friendship between the Germans and the English. I may
honestly say, that it was a matter of genuine sorrow for me to
part from the distinguished and quiet-mannered young Waganda,
the only real native gentleman whom I met with in this
country.
It was still early next morning when, according to the old
custom, we set off southward with beat of drum. The air had
been cleared in the night by thunder -showers, that had
lasted up to nearly six o'clock, and a brilliant sun the morn-
illumined the smiling landscape. What a different ^"^'
picture I now saw before me from that of the desolated Uganda,
on the day when I first entered it ! Everywhere, once more,
broad and well-kept roads and happy groups of people ; every-
where the blessing of labour in field and village. A feeling of
gratitude arose in my heart at the remembrance that it had
been vouchsafed to me to assist in bringing about this peaceful
state of things in the country, and I experienced a joyous hope
for the future. The German Emin Pasha Expedition had been
able to do good work after all ; and who could tell what further
results it might be instrumental in producing for the later
development of Central Africa ?
Thus with light hearts we travelled ever in a southerly
direction through the well-cultivated country. Soon the fields
gave way to a park-like forest, traversed by a wide road, a land of
Now we enter the region of the hills which tower P^*''*y-
around the Victoria Lake on the north. Suddenly the water
gleams at our feet on the left. The shimmering blue lake lies
stretched before our astonished gaze. We descend the slope, and
I ask, —
"What country is it that we see before us over ^^^^^^^^
there .P" ofBuUn-
gogwe.
" It is Bulingogwe," replied Marco.
The boats lay at Kasi, on the right side of the furthermost
inlet of Murchison Bay. The Wasesse were speedily made
aware of our arrival, and scarcely half-an-hour had elapsed
before the quaint boats, with their far -projecting prows, were
running across to take my entire column on board. In rapid
438
.YEW LIGHT ON DA^K AFRICA.
course our boats £;-o liissiuii; through the calm mirror of waters to
Buliugoiiwe. Ill ten minutes we reach the island, and I give
orders to set up our camp u])on the picturesque slope overlooking
]Murcliisiiii Bay and the broad lake towards the south. Behind
us lies the dust of Uganda's intrigues ; before us rises a, new and
Brilliant great jjroblem, which we have to solve. For the first
f,fi''„t'J,?/' time for weeks, the little marchina; flag of the German
lul expec- ' ^ ~
tations. Euiiu Paslia Expedition, which had seen the Kenia and
been carried before us in our Massai encouuters, flutters in the
breeze.
The eye wanders with delight over the glorious bay, with its
wood-crowned slopes, and the heart swells with exultant joy.
A grand DifRcult tasks aud serious obstacles may yet lie between
prospect. ^^j_, ..^^^^ p^^j, native country ; but now, for the first time,
the words of Schiller arise in our minds ; —
" For each vessel's stately prow
Toward health and home is pointed now,
And rifiht homeward ai'o we wendintf."
V,
MsaMsf^' .
Goethe.
ON the island of Biilingogwe, I
had been' passing my time, on
March 26th, in reading Carl3de's "Life
of Frederick the Great," when snd-
denl3% towards evening, my attention
was aroused by loud calls, proceeding
from the mountain ridge which intersects the island in a westerly
direction. On going to the entrance of my tent, which was
440 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
pitched upon the western slope of Murchison Bay, I perceived
Mons. Lourdel descending the steep, with a few companions. I
Hona. had presented one half of the donkej's I had taken from
Lourdel, ^j^g Massais to the Roman Catholic, the other half to
the rrencn
missionary, the English missionaries. Mons. Lourdel informed me,
he had heard at Mengo that the Djumba had had us taken
to Bulingogwe, but had then recalled the boats. It at once
struck him that this was a trick of the Katikiro's, in whose
power we were completely ; so as soon as the boatmen received
orders to return to Sesse with their vessels, accordingly he
had ridden over on one of the donkeys I had given him,
and was going to spend the night with me. I oifered
. , Mons. Lourdel my best thanks, and at once ordered a
Particulars •'
of Stanley festive supper. During the meal Mons. Lourdel
acquainted me with some interesting facts respecting
Stanley's carrying off of Emin Pasha. I had already remarked,
that in the first letter I received from the French in Usoga the
news of the revolt of Emin's troops had been communicated
in somewhat sceptical terms. " If credit may be given to
certain rumours, Emin's troops are said to have mutinied."
Now for the first time Mons. Lourdel distinctly told me, " II n'a
pas voulu ; Stanley I'a pris comme un voleur ; " ("He did not
wish to go ; Stanley captured him like a thief") ; " and, as our
people at Ankore have noticed, he treated Emin very badly.''
As these communications made to me by Mons. Lourdel
only represented what he had heard from others, I could not
Incredulity -"^^^^ up my mind to attach much importance to his
of Dr. words, as I could not imagine that Emin Pasha would
Peters .
allow himself to be removed by Stanlej^, against his
will, from a province in which he was governor. Not until
I reached Mpuapua did I discover that the tidings I had already
received in Bulingogwe, and still further in Ukumbi, did not
even convey the whole truth.
By his coup of April 5th, 1889, Stanley not only obliged
Emin Pasha to come away with him, but induced him, by
holding out various promises, to submit to his dictation.
He told Emin he would conduct him round Lake Victoria to
ARRIVAL OF MUANGA'S ADMIRAL. 441
Kawirondo, and then from Mombas furnish him with the means
not only of recovering his former position in the Equatorial
Province, but also of reconquering Uganda and Unjoro, though
certainly it would be under the sovereignty of the British East
African Company. These promises he did not keep, later on,
at Usukuma, and thus he compelled Emin Pasha, against his
will, to march with him to the coast. This behaviour of
Stanleys is the more inexplicable as it was adverse to the
interests of those by whom he was commissioned, the sirwuiiam
British East African Company. The plan, in his bold ao^^g^o'id
way suggested by Sir William Mackinnon, of ac- v^^^-
quiring for England the countries of the Upper Nile, must
indeed be called grand. That it failed entirely is, in the first
instance, the fault of Stanley and no less of Jackson, both of
whom, on arriving at the place, were wanting in the necessary
determination to put it into execution at the right moment.
This matter formed the subject of conversation between Mons.
Lourdel and myself during our supper, and Lourdel once more
expressed his conviction that, in consequence of Jackson's
indecision, England had certainly lost the opportunity of
taking peaceable possession of Uganda.
Our conversation was suddenly interrupted by the landing
of people from boats just below my tent, and the arrival of
a large procession. Muanga's Djumba (Admiral) appeared,
bringing with him presents of honour for me ; he was accom-
panied by Nugula, whom he introduced as the Kabaka Arrival of
(king's representative) in the Uganda expedition, of^"^"^^-
which I was to take the command for the clearing of the west
shore of the lake. Nugula prostrated himself before me, and
swore to obey me in all things. The flotilla, destined to carry
the men employed in the collection of tribute money to
Busiba, the projecting land of Karague, to the south of the
Kagera, was assembled at Sesse, which I could reach from
Bulingogwe in three days.
" There you will find nearly a hundred boats. To-morrow
morning the thirty-three boats especially destined for the trans-
port of your column shall be in the bay, to take us first to Mfoh."
442 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
" And where shall I find the sick people I sent to Sesse a few
daj's since ? "
" These, too, will be here at Bulingogwe to-morrow. They
lost their way the day before yesterday, and marched to Ntebe.
Nuguia's When I learnt that you yourself had started for Sesse
report. to-day I immediately sent boats to bring these back,
and to-morrow they will be here again."
Here was a fresh proof of the way in which the Waganda
keep their promises. I now dismissed Djumba and Nugula,
once more giving them orders to have the boats in readiness at
sunrise. Mons. Lourdel then retired to one of the huts by the
shore, below my tent, where he passed anything but a comfort-
able night in a lounging chair, as these huts swarm with vermin.
The following morning I was roused by a deluge of rain. It did
not cease until 6.30, at which hour Mons. Lourdel appeared to
breakfast. I take this opportunity to mention, that throughout
Dietary on the expedition I adhered to the principle of three meat
the march, jj^g^ls a day. In the mornings, previous to the starting
of our column, a cup of hot coffee, or cocoa, and milk was taken,
at which meal cold meat and, as a rule, some porridge and
honey were at our disposal. On the march I caused a halt to
be made for a quarter of an hour between ten and eleven, when
we partook of cold meat and mustard and cold porridge. On
our arrival in camp a good soup was immediately prepared, and
some meat was roasted, and this proceeding was repeated at six
in the evening. Coffee, for which, having cattle with us, we
were generally provided with milk, always formed the conclusion
of each meal, and, as a finish, we smoked the tobacco of the
African country from a native pipe. The tobacco differs con-
tobacco, siderably in the various provinces, but sometimes, as
among the Gallas, on the Tana, and in Kawirondo, for instance,
it is an aromatic and fragrant luxury. At any rate, we vastly
preferred it to some tobacco we found in Ukumbi, which had
come from Europe . Occasionally an agreeable addition was made
to our table by a good fish from the lake. Besides this, I had
the good fortune to secure some large parcels of smoked grass-
hoppers, neatly packed in matting, which constituted an excellent
MONS. LOURDEL A HELPER IN NEED. 443
hors iVceuvre. Fried in fat, they taste A'ery much like pork
sausages(?) ; and having had the luck to avert a threatened salt
famine by the purchase of ten pounds of Unjoro salt in Uganda,
we could indulge in a little salt with them without any twinges
of conscience. As at the lake we could always get bananas and
other fruits, and often, too, refreshing buttermilk, our scale of
provisioning during the next few weeks was an exceedingly
satisfactory one for Africa, and, in consequence, we enjoyed
good health.
Mons. Lourdel and I waited till half-past seven for the boats
to come across ; but the Sesse people, of whom the boats' crews
entirely consisted, gave no signs of moving. As
' o o o Dilatori.
Djumba and Nugula had been taken back to the other nessofthe
side, we found ourselves in the very position which, on "* ™*"'
the previous day, Mons. Lourdel had feared would be mine. We
went down to the shore, and signalled across to the Sesse people.
No answer ; not a sign that we had been understood, or that
any one was willing to attend to our summons. I now proposed
to Mons. Lourdel that he should go with me to the island,
and try if we could not ferret out some small fishing boat, in
which we could row across to the flotilla. In the bay, between
the mainland and the island, a few of these boats were gliding
about, with one or two men in each. In vain did Mons. Lourdel
make signs to them to approach. At last, on his telling them
that he commanded them in the name of the king, one of them
came as far as the reeds on the margin of the island, but he
refused to come close up to us. Then Mons. Lourdel lost
patience. With one bound he was in the lake, and, j^^„j,4gi,g
before the fisherman had time to row off, he had seized energetic
1-1 • in c -I ■ f measure.
the boat, and, with a vigorous blow or his fist, sent one
of them overboard. He jumped into the boat, and, wet through
as he was, he by himself pulled across towards the flotilla, calling
out to me to remain where I was, and that he would bring the
boats. So soon as the Sesse people perceived that we had got
in possession of a boat, they immediately unmoored the whole
flotilla, and began racing across to us, each striving to out-row the
rest. They had evidently not intended, with malice prepense,
444 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
to leave us in the hole, but beinij under no control, had given
themselves up to a comfortable " dolce far niente." At the
:'i: . lake I was soon convinced that my way of [conducting
with idle the expedition, by starting before sunrise, was utterly
peop e. impracticable with these people. Every morning I
had to begin the struggle afresh against the laziness of the
boatmen.
The Sesse Islands are the great naval station and the sailors'
s
recruiting ground of the King of Uganda. Hundreds of boat:
are to be found here, which, at a moment s notice from the king,
must be placed at his disposal. With this fleet the Waganda
have conquered for themselves the supremacy over the whole of
Lake Victoria. Any boats belonging to other tribes that make
their appearance upon the lake, and do not at once submit to the
Kabaka, are, without more ado, seized and destroyed. In this
wise all the regions north and west of the lake have been laid
under tribute by him.
About ten o'clock Mons. Lourdel, still wet through, returned
to Bulingogwe. I immediately furnished him with a change ot
Fatal con- clothiug, but I fear that morning laid the seeds of the
toMonr^ fever to which, to my deep sorrow, he soon afterwards
Lourdel. fell a victim. I had learnt to esteem very highly the
calm and energetic man M'ho so thoroughly championed the
interests of his Church in Uganda. He was then thirty-nine
years of age, had laboured in Uganda since 1879, and had taken
his share in all the vicissitudes this country had undergone. He
had, moreover, no desire ever to quit Uganda.
I now took leave of him. My invalid column had actually
been brought over from Kasi to the other side. My baggage
and people were soon embarked on the boats, and I took my seat
in the largest of them. In the front part of the boat is an open
space, where the arm-chair was placed on which I sat. I pro-
tected myself against the spray that dashed over the bows with
an antelope skin, which Mons. Lourdel presented to me in the
moment of our parting.
" Au revoir, Mons. Lourdel ; au revoir, either in Europe or
in Uganda," I called out from the boat for the last time.
T%_
t cI
THE VICTORIA XYAXZA LAKE. 445
" Au revoir in Uganda, if it be God's will," he replied,
waving his handker chief vigorously in salute.
I returned his farewell salutation, and the boats Parting
went hissing through the blue waters towards the south, goodmit-
It was indeed a glorious sight, such as is seldom met ^"""y-
with. The morning was cool after the downpour of the night,
and the power of the sun was mitigated by the fleecy clouds that
floated across it. To the right and left the sharp outlines of the
coast of Uganda, studded with forests or plantations, stood forth
along the wide-stretching Murchison Bay. Before us, in the
far distance, was dimly visible a group of islands, of which as
yet only the peaks of the mountains showed themselves
. View on
above the horizon. And the fantastic boats careered on- the Lake
wards, like horses of the sea striving with each other in ^"*°^^^-
a race. A light southerly breeze refreshed the senses and nerves.
To-day it was scarcely able to curl the surface of the water, nor
did we as yet experience anything of the ocean-like motion of
the waves which often, even without any great amount of wind,
suddenly agitates the surface of Lake Victoria.
Mobile as the expression of an intellectual face, is the aspect
of the Victoria Nyanza. To-day it raises its blue eyes thought-
fully towards the lofty firmament, glowing with the sweet fresh-
ness of youth, awakening the heart to cheerful thoughts.
Sparkling in the brilliant sunlight, it stretches before us into
seemingly endless distance. On the horizon gleams a verdant
isle, or perhaps the mountain summit of an island, like some
beautiful Fata Morgana. Here we have before us the actual
realization of the Islands of the Blest. White swans and ducks
skim along the deep blue water. Eagles circle above it, intent
on the capture of fish, which spring in shoals out of the ^^^ .^
waves, and here and there some large grey-bellied por- lake
7 ID (D */ ^ Victoria.
poise tumbles about, rollicking in the tepid flood. Thus
in its holiday garb the Victoria Lake stretches before us, and
only from time to time, like an apparition from dreamland, the
shadow of a fantastic cloud glides across its mirror. By noon
the eastern shore recedes more and more ; we keep along the
western side, passing sharply-defined groups of trees and pretty
446 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
half-concealed villages. The boats of the flotilla are, by this
time, widelj' scattered. My large vessel, propelled by twenty-
six oarsmen, and bearing the large black, white, and red flag,
shoots forward in advance, marshalling the rest on their way.
At three o'clock we reach a flat island, exactly facing
Murchison Bay on the south. Here we make a halt, to give
Noonday the men a short rest and collect the scattered flotilla.
''*"■ But I cannot stay here long. Already, in a quarter
of an hour, I give the order to resume our voyage towards the
island Mfoh, situated opposite Cape Ntebe, where we are to
spend the night. We now turn to the west, leaving Uganda's
characteristic coast behind us to the north. Forward we go at
accelerated speed, and the foam hisses merrily on the bow of the
boat. From time to time we take a wave on board, the spray
rolling from my antelope skin. The lake, but this morning
smooth as a mirror and almost languishing, seeming to draw
the vault of heaven towards it, is now lightly stirred by the
gentle evening breeze. Just as when a slight frown passes over
a thoughtful brow, its surface now assumes a totally different
aspect. Soon mysterious forms arise above the horizon, far in
the south-west. At first the spectator cannot tell whether these
are boats of strange shape, or whati they are. Marco,
the sesse who is seated behind me, tells me they are the
western outlines of the Sesse Islands. The sun sinks
lower and lower ; the lake in the west is like a glowing mass
of fire. My boat rushes swiftly through the waters. I look
around me, and find that we are alone. Those distant specks
upon the horizon are the nearest of the boats following me.
Our course is directed straight to the land that rises up, ever
more sharply defined, before us. I am told, on enquiring, that
these are the outlines of the Island of Mfoh. Uganda's coast
winds along in a series of bays. Now it makes a sharp turn
northM'ards, jutting forward into the lake, like an isthmus,
towards the islands for which we are steering. "That is
Ntebe," explains Marco.
The sun has sunk into the west ; the evening glow in the
sky has flamed up and died away, and now Lake Victoria lies
THE ISLAND OF MFOH. 447
bathed in the pale light of the full moon. The islands to the
south-west are no longer visible. Straight in front of us, dark
and rocky, rises steeply from the waters this volcanic island,
covered with gnarled and often strangely-shaped trees. We
involuntarily wonder how a landing-place is to be found here.
On nearer approach I become aware of a canal pene-
The canal
trating into the land, which we now enter, and that
we have to effect a landing on the Island of Mfoh. Whilst
the coast on the east is very steep, to the south and west it
is flat along the water's edge. Here the shore forms a wide
bay, and now, at seven in the evening, our boat voyage for the
day is to terminate. Soon the boat grates upon the flat sandy
shore, and the Sesse people jump into the water, to pull it a
long way further in. Then I am borne to the shore upon the
shoulders of two sturdy fellows. We have reached Mfoh, after
a passage of eight or nine hours, but we have still to wait
for the other boats before we can pitch our tents and prepare
supper.
Half-an-hour elapsed before the first boat came up, and at
midnight, when I held a final muster, some of them were still
missing. Fortunately the tents and accessories were Arrival at
in some of the foremost ones, so that by eight o'clock ^^''^■
my tent was pitched close by the edge of the lake. I had to
wait for my supper until nearly ten o'clock, but the moon shone
bright, and the contours of the islands rose like phantoms out
of the water. My people were lodged in houses in different
parts of the island, and late into the night I was busy posting
sentries, that the boats might be watched with suf- jj^^ggji^y
ficient care. In those days I still feared intrigues for vigi-
from Uganda. Should the flotilla disappear some *'"'*•
night, we should probably all have been doomed to perish,
imprisoned on one of the islands of Lake Victoria. It was late
when I lay down to rest ; but I was destined not to get much
sleep that night.
A storm came up that night, the like of which for grandeur
I can hardly remember. Flash followed flash, and that I was in
the very midst of the electric disturbance I knew by lightning
448 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
and thunder being simultaneous. The rain came hissing down
Great thun- on the tent and into the lake. It was as if the flood-
derstorm. gg^^^gg Qf heaveu had opened for another deluge, and the
earth was about to be swallowed up by the raging elements.
The storm howled and whistled. As my tent, with its iron-
tipped poles, was the highest point in the landscape, my position
was one of imminent danger. Yet I had no wish to rise. At
last it seemed as if Providence intervened to rescue me. The
storm and wind that stirred up the waves of Lake Victoria,
and dashed them almost to the very door of my tent, caused
the tent to rock to and fro, so that every moment I dreaded
it would collapse. I may have lain thus for about half- an -
hour, when my fears were suddenly realised. The ropes that
held down the roof on one side gave way, and I lay buried
beneath the weight of the tent. At the same instant
struck by the flagstaff in front of it was struck by lightning, and
ig nmg. J ^^^^ ^^^ shock in every nerve. The next morning
I discovered the flagstaff lying in pieces upon the ground, with
its lance point bent and half melted away. For me there was
but one thing to do. With nothing on but my shirt, I ran at a
venture towards the huts, where I knew the Somalis were housed.
I found them seated round a fire, and at once casting off my wet
garment, I wrapped myself in a woollen blanket. Then Jama
Ismael folded me in his arms, so that I was soon quite warm,
and thus escaped the dangerous consequence of my involuntary
shower-bath.
The dawn had come by this time, and I succeeded in finding
my servant, and procuring a dry change of clothes out of my
trunks. Having shaved and dressed, I refreshed myself with a
hearty breakfast after the sufferings of the night. The storm
The lake ^^^ ^^^^' ^^* *^® waves of the Victoria Nyanza rolled
after the aloug hollow, with white crests, so that my Sesse people
declared we could not proceed further that day. Mean-
while Stephano had arrived at Ntebe, sent by the Katikiro to
convey letters to the English station at Usumbiro, and at the
same time to carry out official measures for my expedition. He
handed me a hypocritical letter from the Katikiro, which ran
REPLY TO THE KATIKIRO ;-LAKE VICTORIA. 449
thus : " 1 send thee greeting, again greeting, and once again
greeting, my friend ! Wherefore didst thou depart, my friend ?
Wherefore didst thou leave us, thy friends, to yearn for
thee in Uganda? What wilt thou reply when thy tiro's "■ '"
brothers on the coast ask thee, hast thou driven a^yay ^^"''^'
the Arabs from Uujoro, and wherefore didst thou depart from
Uganda before this was done P Greeting, again greeting, once
again greeting ! "
Two days later I replied to Katikiro from Sesse : " Greet-
ing, again greeting, once again greeting ! I have received your
letter, and read it without pleasure. I was glad to
leave Uganda because your quarrels Avith Muanga reply ^to*the
displeased me. You ask me what I shall say to my ^*''''^"^'''
brothers if they ask me why I departed from Uganda ? I shall
tell my brothers that you are a liar, and that you and your
friends are the ruin of Uganda. T will gladly return to Uganda,
and indeed with soldiers and cannon, to help Muanga to gain
the mastery over his bad subjects, at whose head you are.
Greeting, again greeting, once again greeting ! "
Although the lake was very rough all the morning, I gave
the order at eleven o'clock to embark for the island of Vuvoh,
where we intended to encamp that day. To-day the
waves of Lake Victoria had the same motion as those under a
of the Baltic ; just then one could not recognise it, "^^^^^p^" •
remembering the day before. Only by dint of great exertion
could my men make headway against the south wind. The boat
was dashed from side to side, so that every now and then I
expected it would capsize. The waves broke over the bulwarks
continuousl}-, and we were soon all wet to the skin.
The Sesse people are accustomed to accompany the labour
of rowing, almost uninterruptedl}', with rhythmic songs. The
leading singer stands upon one of the stern seats. He ^^
sings somewhat as follows, " Hei, hei, heia ! Hei, hei, the sesse
hei, hei, hei, heia ! " Or different subjects form the ^^"^ ^'
burden of his ditty. He narrates, always in rhythm, long tales
of robbers connected with the lake, and love stories, to which
the chorus regularly sings a refrain. Or again, one of the
29
450 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
^Yaganda stands up and sings the praises of Muanga and his
friend the Msungu, called Kupanda. This song my people
caught up, and made a practice of entertaining us with it every
morning between the lake and the coast.
" Eh ! Buana mkubua etu Kupanda scharo ? "
Chorus : " Scharo ? "
Solo : " la scharo ! "
Chorus: "Scharo?"
Solo : " la scharo."
Chorus : " Scharo ? "
Solo : " Eh ! Buana mkubua etu Kupanda scharo !
(" Eh ! " (drawn out) " Is not our leader the stormer of cities .P "
Chorus: "Cities?"
Solo : " Yes, cities ! " etc.
" Yes, our leader is the stormer of cities ! ")
To-day they endeavoured, by singing with half-hushed
voices, to appease the storm ; but in this they were not success-
ful. It was not till towards four in the afternoon that my boat
reached the island. This time I had taken the precaution of
bringing with me my tent, its accessories, and my luggage, so
that I was so far independent of the boats behind me, and could
at once pitch my tent in a plantation of plantain trees, on the
southern shore of the island. The sun of the previous day, and
the wind of the present one, had burnt my face dark-
audwind- red, and covered the skin with blisters. I became
more prudent in future, and used completely to cover
my face with linen during the hot hours in the middle of the
day, so that, seated in the bow of the boat, I had the appear-
ance of the " Veiled Picture of Sais." The voyage lost much of
its charm in consequence, but by this measure I escaped the
risk of sunstroke.
My little flotilla had been scattered by the storm, and even
on the morning of March 29th the boats were not all together.
Nevertheless, I resolved to pursue my passage to Sesse,
afresh for It was uecessary, in any case, to encamp there for a
day, or for several days, to collect the whole fleet. I
longed for the comfortable station and for the society of
ON LAKE VICTORIA. 451
Europeans. For that reason I left a few of the Waganda behind
to look out for the missing boats, and started about ten o'clock,
always steering parallel with the Island of Sesse, which lay
before us. Once more Lake Victoria lay spread out smooth as
a mirror, raising its dark blue eyes to heaven. The sun lit up
with lovely splendour the richly -wooded shores of Sesse, sailing by
along whose windings we darted like an arrow. In Jf th™"^*''
front of us, to the north-west, the mouth of the Ka tonga, ^^^'"^sa.
where the land turns sharply to the south, was clearly and
distinctly visible. Whilst the north of Lake Victoria
pi'iTiiii ■ • Buddtiland.
consists or high table lands, the western coast is entirely
flat. "What land is that?" I enquired. "Buddu," replied
Marco.
The experience of the previous day had taught me the wisdom
■of taking on board an ample stock of provisions. So I had well
provided myself with meat and bananas, and this greatly con-
tributed to make the voyage an enjoyable one. There was also
much to be seen that awakened interest. The creeks of Sesse
swarmed with aquatic birds of all kinds ; and even if „ ^.^ ,
^ . . ' . Beautiful
this had not been the case, it was an intense enioyment landscape
of Sesse
in itself to feel in heart and mind the influence of all
this gorgeous tropical splendour. The soul drank in, so to speak,
the wondrous beauty of the landscape, and, full of idealised
■enjoyment, the mind gave itself up to poetic delight. Thus
we continued our voyage westward, until four in the afternoon.
At that time we reached the north-west corner of Sesse, and now
the boats turned southward. Soon was distinctly visible the
promontory where Sesse approaches nearest to the mainland of
Buddu. Here I found, as I had been led to expect, the The French
French missionary station. The rowers pulled in™"^'""'-
regular time, and the boat shot swiftly past the verdant shores.
The figure of a white man, accompanied by a servant, came in
sight amongst the bushes. "Buana mdogo ! " ("The young
master!" literally, "The little master!") cried my Meeting
servants. It was indeed Herr von Tiedemann. His yon Tiede-
companion, as well as himself, had recognised us and '"*''''•
our black, white, and red flag, and as a sign of rejoicing Herr
452 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
von Tiedemanu fired off his gun. I returned his salute. Soon
the boat grated upon the strand, and with a warm shake of the
hand, Herr von Tiedemann and I greeted each other once more,,
after a separation of several weeks. He was much rejoiced to
hear that the whole party was on its wa)- hither.
The news of the disturbances in Uganda had penetrated as-
far as Sesse, and Monseigneur Livinhac had thought I should
not get away from thence within any calculable time,
neur All the more joyous were the feelings of my travelling
companion, when he heard that, without any long stay
at Sesse, we should push on southwards. We strode along the
narrow pathway leading from the landing stage, and proceeded
up the hill to where the French station stood. To the right,
when the summit was reached, stood a long dwelling-house, in
front of us the chapel, and all around the clean and well-kept
houses of the parishioners, the whole surrounded by cultivated
gardens, and framed in by a distant background of dark woods.
Monseigneur Livinhac received me with the heartiest of greet-
ings, and congratulated me upon my unexpectedly rapid
departure from Uganda, which he declared to be unique in
Arrange- the history of travel in Uganda. I was taken to the
^e"Fre°ucii i"efectory, and at once regaled with a glass of wine
station, and with coffee. To my regret, I learnt that one of
the fathers, named Schankmerl, was lying in a hopeless state
with congestion of the liver. There was something truly
sublime, to my thinking, in the calmness with which this state
of things was accepted by the companions of the desperately
sick man. " AYe are here to die," was their simple, modest
reply. Here was no useless lamentation, no sentimental reflec-
tion ; nothing but manly resignation to the decrees of Providence,
The well-prepared supper, served in European fashion in the-
refectory, which was illumined by wax lights, had, so it appeared
Deli its of ^° ^^> something of solemnity in it. The level of
civilised our Conditions of life had been so greatly depressed,,
that to sup by artificial light seemed like unheard-
of luxury.
When supper was over a scene was enacted, which sounds.
CONVERSATION WITH JIONSEIGNEUR LiriNHAC.
453
,so romantic, that it might have formed a part of a drama.
We conversed abont the affairs of Uganda, Jackson's ,
'- .^ Mr. Mackay
order for my arrest, and the events of the last few da3's, and his
and naturally got to mention Mr. Mackay, the leader of
the English party in this country. I spoke of the great influence
MOXSBIGNEUK LiVINHAC BLBhSING HIS PUPILS.
he appeared to exercise in Uganda ; a view which Monseigneur
Livinhac entirelv confirmed. I had previously heard, that Mr.
Mackay had expressed the hope he felt, of still bemg able to carry
out his programme of making Africa an English possession, from
Table Mountain to the Atlas, and also giving it as his opinion
454 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
that the German companies working there had no real support
from the German Government. When the right time came he
would let loose the Arabs upon the Germans, and then we should
see how soon the whole undertaking there would collapse. There-
upon I suggested the question, whether Germany would not he
quite justified in issuing a decree of expulsion against such a
man, as these plans really savoured of high treason.
" I should be quite ready to conduct Mr. Mackay to the
coast. But," I continued, " when do you, Monseigneur, think
of returning to Europe ? "
"Jamais ! I shall remain here until my death."
" That is a pity. I should be exceedingly rejoiced to have
had you for my travelling companion thither."
At this moment a man entered the room and threw himself
The bearer ^pou his ktiees at the feet of Monseigneur, whose
ofauim- hand he kissed. He said something to him in the
portant . .
comnmni- Wasukuma language, which I did not understand. I
thought I noticed Monseigneur turn somewhat pale,
and I looked at him expectantly.
" Mr. Mackay is dead," he said abruptly, " and I am
recalled to Europe."
Naturally concluding that Monseigneur Livinhac might wish
to be alone after receiving such important tidings, we at once
took leave of him, and I remarked to Herr von Tiedemann that
had the foregoing scene we had just witnessed been represented
on the stage, the author of the piece would certainly have been
accused of dealing in the improbable.
The next morning rose bright and clear, like its predecessor.
The previous day I had sent Nugula to the smaller Sesse Islands
to collect the large fleet with which I intended to make the
attack upon Busiba.
I spent Sunday, March 30th, at the French missionary
sunda at ^^^^i^^' ^0 collect my own expeditionary force there,
the French I had had my tent pitched under a huge tree, and as
Father Schankmerl's condition was worse that day than
before, we took our meals in the tent — Monseigneur, Herr von
Tiedemann, and I. In the night a flotilla of Muanga's had
EXPLANATION WITH STEPEANO ;—THE BOATS. 455
come up from Usukuma, laden with powder and ammunition
for the king, and with stores for the Roman Catholic Mission.
I asked the leader of this expedition to exchange some of his
largest boats for smaller ones from my flotilla, which he agreed
to do, after consultation with Monseigneur Livinhac. I sent
for Stephano, and in Monseigneur's presence told him that
from this time Uganda's intrigues must be at an end, and that
I was well aware that he belonged to the English part}'.
" From henceforth I am again the head of this expedition,
and no one else, and every one belonging to it must obey me.
If you do this in every particular, faithfully and ^^^^^^
willingly, you shall receive presents from me at Usu- advice to
kuma ; but if I once notice that you are working
against me, either openly or secretly, you will be flogged and
put in chains, and that is what you have to look to."
If these words addressed to the official representative of the
king were somewhat harsh, they produced their effect very com-
pletely. Throughout the entire remainder of the expedition I
had no cause to be displeased with Stephano.
In the afternoon the last of the boats scattered on Friday
made their appearance, and the same evening I learnt that the
great flotilla had also assembled. I left orders at Sesse Arrival ot
that Nugula was to follow me immediately with the
fleet and meet me at Sango, north of the mouth of the Kagera,
from whence we would go forward on the following day to
Busiba. I then gave orders in my fleet to have everything in
readiness for our leaving Sesse on the Monday morning, as pro-
visions were scarce at Sesse, and I was, moreover, impatient to
get nearer to the scene of action. So we started southwards
already on Monday morning, March 31st. Before leaving we
greeted Monseigneur Livinhac, and talked with him on the
subject of our travelling together from Usukuma to the coast.
Monseigneur intended to hurry after us so soon as he had
received from Europe the order for his recall fromMonseig-
Africa. This document, he expected, would be delivered ^^^ i^ten-
to him that very day, as the boats had brought him^'"''-
the news that four French missionaries had left Usukuma to
456 ,V7?11' LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
strengthen the number of their brethren in Uganda. He told
us we should probably meet them on Victoria Lake to-day or
to-morrow.
The morning was gloriously fine. Upon the strand our
people and the Waganda, who had come from the south, were
Our journey bustling about. In half an hour the boats were un-
resumed. moored and ready for departure. I entered the largest,
which carried the German flag. Another good-bye and au
revoir to Monseigneur, and away we went merrily upon the
lake.
So soon as we had got through the canal that separates Sesse
from the mainland quite an oceanic swell made itself felt. The
rocks swarmed with sea mews and other birds. The swelling
billows dashed unceasingly against the cliffs. All our boats
showed themselves equal to the occasion. If at one moment
they lay in the hollow of the waves, the next they appeared upon
Good boats *^^ Summit, and soon we lost the unpleasing apprehen-
and good siou of a possible capsizing. The men pulled steadily,
singing rhythmic songs ; and although their progress
Avas retarded both by the south monsoon and the heavy, adverse
swell, yet we got on rapidly enough, and towards the afternoon
had lost sight of most of the other boats. Consequently I made
my men row somewhat slower, that I might keep at any rate
a part of my boats in sight. Between two and three in the
afternoon we sighted a sail — doubtless the expected French
missionaries. I gave orders to stop, and sent forward some
of the boats.
It was, indeed, the boat containing the French missionaries.
The French ^^^° had no idea of our approach. My people caused
missionary them to lower their sail, and now I sped towards them
in my large boat.
"Bonjour, messieurs! Dr. Peters" ("Good morning, gen-
tlemen ! Dr. Peters "), I called out to them.
" Comment, Dr. Peters ! Vous n'^tes pas mort ? Nous avons
lu la nouvelle de votre mort." ("Dr. Peters! Then you are
not dead ? We have read the news of your death.")
" Non, messieurs, je ne suis pas mort du tout. N'avez-vous
A MEETING, AND IMPORTANT NEWS. 457
pas quelques bouteilles de cognac pour nous ? " (" No, gentlemen,
I am not dead at all. HaAe you not some bottles of cognac for
us P ")
" Malheureusement pas." ("Unfortunately not.")
We were now alongside, and I here learnt, according to the
news from Europe, we had been reported as massacred either by
the Massais or the Somalis.
" How do matters stand in Europe ? Is there peace there or
war ? " I continued.
" No war."
" Has anything of importance in Europe taken interchange
place .P" •'*'^'^'-
" Nothing that we know of."
" How are things looking in the East African colony P "
" The road to Bagamoyo is free, so far as the Arabs are con-
cerned, but threatened by bands of robbers. Om' Dangers of
last letter-carrier was attacked between Usongo and letter-carry-
Massali, so that we are almost entirely without news
from the coast."
" What is the state of Usukuma P "
" Food is to be had there, but the Arabs from Morgo
threaten the Europeans."
" Have you any news of the Arabs in Karague, to whom we
are now going ? "
" No, we have always encamped on the islands, for fear of
their attacks."
" We wish to spend to-night in Baale. Will you not go with
us thither, that .we may make one camp of it ? "
" We much regret that we cannot do so, but we must reach
Sesse to-day, as we are the bearers of important tidings for
Monseigneur."
" Then it is true that Monseigneur returns to Europe ? " ^
" Yes, we are now taking to him the order for his recall."
" Then I shall be able to travel with him. I shall expect
him at Nyayesi."
This dialogue was carried on half in shouts, owing to the
roughness of the lake.
4o8 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
]M_V boat now moved off to give Herr von Tiedemann the
opportunity of putting a few questions to the gentlemen. In ten
„ , . minutes more we had concluded this conversation on
Conclusion
of the inter-Lake Victoria, which had taken place under such unusual
view.
cuTumstances.
" Greeting to the gentlemen in Sesse and Uganda."
" Greeting to our brethren in Usukuma."
The sail was now hoisted, and we separated on our different
ways towards north and south. The sun was just setting, and
tinted the bays in the west with glowing red. Presently we
rowed past places from which smoke ascended. I gave orders to
land, but was informed that we were not far from Baale, and
would find provisions there.
So we continued our voyage by moonlight. At eight o'clock
our boats grated on the sand. Here, as everywhere along Lake
Victoria, the coast extends flat and shelving very
Flat shores . ,.
of Lake gradually into the water, and the boatmen are obliged
to jump into the water and drag the boats a long dis-
tance. In fact, the entire lake, which occupies an area about
equal to that of the kingdom of Bavaria, is rather flat-shored,
and this accounts for the rapid formation of waves at every
sudden squall. The whole is volcanic ground. The island
groups in the south are, as a rule, nothing more than the edges
of craters. It is said that similar crater ridges, forming hidden
reefs, exist in some parts under the waters, rendering navigation
dangerous. Keelless steamers of light draught are therefore
advisable on Lake Victoria, but they should be decked and
solidly constructed, to resist sudden squalls and dashing waters.
On my arrival in Baale I had only eleven boats with me.
The others, unable to breast the waves, had remained, as I
Arrival heard later, to the north at Bujaju. A walk of five
in Baale. mi^utes from the shore, through woods and maize fields,
brought us to the village of Baale, where I had the tents pitched,
and quartered the people in the huts. As usual, I placed sentries
near the boats. A few fowls were soon procured and put into
the pot, so that by ten o'clock we were able to enjoy a hot meal.
Our diet was still very good, as we had brought rice with us
DUMO AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 45&
from Uganda, and bananas were to be had everywhere. I had
taught my Somali chef, Hussein, the culinary art. He
understood how to prepare really good soup and to th?exp''ert
roast meat to my satisfaction. There is no fear of ''°°'''
uncleanliness with the Somalis ; they are patterns of cleanliness.
T intended spending the next day at Baale, to wait for the
coming up of the other boats ; but as I was told, about noon,
that they had been seen on the horizon making southwards, I
gave orders to start, hoping to reach Dumo on that start for
day, April 1st. This place is known from Stanley's """"'■
descriptions of his travels, and, as he relates, he had thought of
passing through it this time on his return from Lake Albert.
Stanley might have fearlessly gone thither. Sweet peace reigned
here, and, as the Christian party were always in possession of
boats, he would most likely have been able to collect a flotilla
with which to cross the lake to Usukuma.
We arrived at Dumo by sunset. The place is situated on a
little bay amidst fields, which we reach, as at Baale, by going
through a marshy and wooded tract. Dumo is small. Description
On April 1st it was deserted. This made a melan- "^^ii™''-
choly and somewhat discouraging impression upon me. But the
evening, when we partook of our meal by moonlight in the open
air, passed in lively conversation, and a deep sleep fortified us
for the following day. In the morning the lake was rough, and
the waves showed white crests, and my Sesse people had no
inclination to put to sea ; but I ordered them to do so, and
though we got wet through, we reached Sango about three
o'clock in the afternoon. The place is picturesquely situated
on the summit of a hill, visible from afar, and lying to the north
of the mouth of the Kagera. From thence an exquisite view is
obtained across the mountains of Ankore or Busagalla. Here I
had to collect my whole fleet, as the next day would bring us
already to Busiba. Of the remainder of my own people I had
seen nothing for three days, and was beginning to feel waiting for
a little uneasy about the matter. Meanwhile -we*^*^^*-
installed ourselves comfortably in our tents, in the midst of an
upland furnished with banana trees. Food was here brought to
460 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
US in abundance, and ^ye could thoroughly take our ease. To
my great joy, the boats under Nugula's command arrived in the
evening ^yith a great shouting from the crews, and I learnt that
all my people were on the way.
On the shore at the foot of the hill, upon which, slightly
inland, stands Sango, a varied and lively activity was now
sango and manifested. In all ninety-three boats, manned by more
the fleet. ^Yi^iW two thousand men, were here assembled. The
line of camp-fires looked like the lights of a town. Food was
being everywhere sought for, and joyous songs resounded, first
from one camp-fire and then from another, and T looked forward
to the events the coming day might bring with the greatest
interest.
Early in the morning we were under weigh, in the hope, if
possible, of reaching by noontide Tabaliro, one of the islands
of Busiba, in front of the mainland, to the south of the mouth
The River of the Kagera. "We had a fine view of this river,
Kagera. -which, in great breadth and fulness, throws itself here
into the lake. At this spot a row of strange, conical rocks rises
out of the water. They are mostly tenanted by birds only.
The largest of these islands is the fertile and thickly-populated
Tabaliro, which we reached at two o'clock. The inhabitants of
this island were followers of Karema, and under the influence of
Kimbulus.
Here my work was to begin. Immediately on my landing
with twenty boats, in advance of my fleet, I called together
the chiefs of the tribes to hold a council. These are quite
a different race from the Waganda of the north. The men
A confer ^^® clothed in short coats made of straw, and carry
ence with a short spear and lance, bow and arrow ; the women
+jip diififs
wear long petticoats of straw, and look like walking
brooms. The people have the unmistakable air of true
savages. I was the more interested in them as here, for
the first time, we had come within the domain of German
interests. I let them know who we were and what was our
business.
" I come in the name of Muanga, the king of Uganda.
A^]'O^^G THE wasiba.
461
You are to recognise him as tlie Mfalme of Uganda, and pay
liim the trilnite that yon owe him. Yon must drive the Arahs
Wasiba of the Island of Tabalieo.
out of vonr c.mntry. If you do this yon sliall have peace ; if
you will not do it, I shall make war upon you."
It struck me that these people were less submissive
than
402 yEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
I Avas accustomed to find the natives. I dismissed them, with
the order to meet together in the morning, when we would
hold a conference on these matters.
As several of my boats were visible on the horizon, I entered
the village, where I intended, after turning out the inhabitants,
to quarter myself. But I soon learnt that the people were
preparing to make an attack upon us during the night. I
An anxious preferred, therefore, to encamp, with my people, close
°^&'''' to the shore in the vicinity of the boats, so we
returned thither. The tents were then pitched, and soon, for
the first time on German ground, the German flag waved
merrily in the breeze over the glorious bay. On its shores
boat after boat discharged its occupants, and in a short time
the coast was covered with the long-beaked craft. To show the
people of Busiba that we were not in the habit of being
kept waiting by black men, I directed that all cattle in sight
should be driven together and taken possession of, and
threatened the people that if they did not submit by the
evening I would fire the neighbouring villages.
" I have been informed that you are going to make war
upon us to-night, and believe that you are foolish enough to
do so ; but you shall learn to know us. If you choose war with
■warnin ^^' ^°^ °^® °^ ^^^ ^^^ Bscape with his life. You see
to the that your herds are already in my possession, and soon
you shall see the flames rising from the roofs of your
homes. Therefore decide. Will you recognise Muanga as your
king, or die ? "
" We will acknowledge Muanga and thee as our masters,
and we will have nothing to do with the Arabs," was the
answer ; but all that evening I received contradictory reports
from Nugula and other Waganda. At one time it was that the
Wasiba were prepared to fall upon us ; then again, when I was
about to go at them, I was appeased by being entreated to wait
Reply of ^^°^^^ *^^ morning. Accordingly, I had a good Avatch
the kept for the night, and waited for morning to come.
In the early morning came Nugula, accompanied by
the heads of. the tribes, to tell me that all had been arranged
THE LETTER OF PERE LOURDEL. 463
between them. The Wasiba had submitted to Muanga, and
would pay the tribute demanded by him, and indeed they would
collect it that very morning. They said that Kimbuku and
Mtatemboa, the leaders of the English party on the mainland
opposite, had fled a few days previously on hearing of improved
our approach. There was, therefore, now no question p^^^p*"*^'
of a war, and he, Nugula, was prepared, if I so willed it, to
carry on the further business alone.
This communication was confirmed the following day, in
another part of Busiba, by the arrival of a letter from Mons.
Lourdel, dated March 31st. It ran as follows : —
" BiEN CHER MoNsiEUE, — Le roi Muanga me charge de vous
informer que Mtatemboa, I'un des chefs tributaires, chez qui
vous devez passer, s'est sauve avec une partie de son monde par
crainte de votre passage. Le roi Muanga vous prie de passer
par le milieu du pays de Mtatemboa, afin de frapper d'avantage
de crainte les gens du pays. Je pense que vous n'aurez rien k
craindre en passant par I'Uziba.
" Vous ferez bien de briiler la capitale de Mtatemboa et de
le faire disparaitre et mettre un des fils a sa place."
(TEANSLATIOX.)
" Very dear Sir, — King Muanga desires me to inform you
that Mtatemboa, one of the tributary chiefs, through whose
territory you are about to travel, has fled with some ofpereiour-
his people out of fear of your passage. King Muanga *^^'°^^"^''"
begs you to traverse the centre of Mtatemboa's country, to strike
with all the greater fear the people of the land. I do not think
you have anything to dread in passing through Uziba.
" You will do well to set fire to Mtatemboa's capital, to cause
him to disappear, and to set up one of his sons in his place."
The turn matters had taken was a most welcome one to us,
as it relieved us of the necessity of fighting once more upon the
west coast of Lake Victoria for what, after all, were foreign
interests, against foes of whose strength we were not in a position
464 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
to estimate. Had I received Mons. Lourdel's letter before leav-
ing Sesse I should certainly have carried out Muanga's wish that
I should burn the capital of the fugitive Mtatemboa. As it was,
the letter only reached me at Bukoba, when we had left that
district far behind us ; and as the report that the entire
couseauent party of the Arabs in the country had everywhere taken
on the news. ^^ flight On hearing of our approach, proved correct,
I thought it best, in view of my small supply of ammunition,
and being ignorant of what might still be before me in the
German colony, to desist from a pursuit into the unknown west.
I therefore contented myself with carrying out to the letter the
commission I had undertaken in Uganda, namely, to bring the
Wasiba into subjection to Muanga and to collect the tribute for
couection him. This I did on April 4th at Tabaliro, and after-
of tribute, ^^ards at Bukoba, where I stayed one day for the purpose.
I was still less inclined to make an adventurous raid upon the
west that was unknown to me after receiving a letter at Tabaliro
from Monseigneur Livinhac, describing the situation in the south
of the lake, from which I was forced to conclude that there also
the German Emin Pasha Expedition would have to fight its way.
The letter ran as follows : —
" Been cher Docteue, — II est vrai que je suis rappele en
Europe par mes superieurs. Je vais faire mon possible pour
vous rejoindre au sud de Lac et profiter de Foflfre gracieuse que
vous m'avez faite de me prendre sous votre drapeau. Le cour-
Letter from rier qui a apporte nos dernieres lettres a ete attaque
neu^Lmn- ^^^re Usougo et Masali. Presque toutes nos lettres et
^ao. nos journaux ont ete perdus, ce qui fait que nous
sommes toujours sans nouvelles. Le P. Schynse m'ecrit de
Zanzibar. La Caravane Stanley-Emin y arrivait heureuse-
ment -d la fin de Novembre. La route est ouverte et le
pavilion allemand flotte partout depuis Mpwapwa jusqu'a
Zanzibar.
" Je vous prie de vous arreter a Nyagezi, oii vous trouverez
une grande maison pour vous loger convenablement vous et
vos hommes. De la au Bukumbi il n'y a que trois heures de
MONSEIGNEUR LIVINHAC'S LETTER. 465
marche. Les quelques Arabes qui se trouvent ii Masawza (golfe
de Speke) font ce qu'ils peuvent pour indisposer les populations
•contre les blancs. Yotre arrivee les rendra plus polls, j'espere.
" Au plaisir de vous revoir bientot et de voyager avec vous.
" En attendant ce plaisir je vous prie d'agreer I'expression
des sentiments de profond respect et de haute consideration avec
lesquels je suis
"Votre affectionne,
"Leon Livinhac,
" Sup. des Miss, d' Alger."
(TRANSLATION.)
" Very dear Doctor, — It is true that I am recalled to
Europe by my superiors. I shall do my utmost to join you
south of the lake, and to avail myself of your kind oflfer to take
me under your flag. The messenger who brought us our last
letters was attacked between Osongo and Masali. Almost all
our letters and newspapers were lost, so that we are still with-
out news. Father Schynse writes to me from Zanzibar. The
Stanley-Emin caravan arrived there safely at the end of
November. The road is open, and the German flag waves
■everywhere from Mpuapua to Zanzibar.
" I beg you will stop at Nyagezi, where you will find a large
house to lodge you suitably, you and your men. It is only a
three hours' march from thence to Bukumbi. The few Arabs
who are at Masawza (Speke's Gulf) are doing all in their power
to set the inhabitants against the whites. I hope your arrival
will have the effect of making them more polite.
" Trusting soon to have the pleasure of seeing you again,
.and of travelling with you, I beg you will accept the expression
of the sentiments of profound respect and consideration with
which I am
" Yours affectionately,
"Leon Livinhac,
" ,Sup. of the Miss, of Algiers''
Taking into consideration that for the repeating guns we
30
466 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
had scarcely forty cartridges per man left, and that the
ammunition for muzzle and breech-loaders had like-
the'exp"edi- wise dwindled considerably, it will be readily un-
*"""■ derstood why, on receiving the above intelligence,
I confined myself to simply fulfilling what I had undertaken
to do.
On April 4th, when all was in order, and Nugula declared
that I might leave the rest to him, I quitted Tabaliro at
from'^ ^^^ eight in the evening, and travelled further south, with
Tabahro. ^^^ intention of reducing the mainland of Busiba also to
submission.
Night passages upon Lake Victoria are vastly preferable to
those undertaken in the dazzling sun, when the reflection of its
rays from the water mercilessly burns the skin, and the heat
becomes unbearable if we strive, by covering ourselves up, to
Pleasures of protect oursclvcs against them. At night it is cool ;
the passage, ^j^g ^^y^ divest oueself of the troublesome sun helmet,
and recline at ease in an armchair. The moon stands bright
in the heavens, illuminating, with her gentle light, the land to
the right and the mysterious surface of the lake. Far off in
the east tower, like a strong wall, heavy thunder-clouds, in
which the lightning quivers and flashes incessantly ; but above
our heads it is clear, and only, like the phantoms of a dream,
a light cloud passes from time to time over the face of the
moon. All nature lies in peaceful repose around us, and
the soul is absorbed in contemplation of the great mystery of
the Universe. Like panting horses in a race, our boats fly along,
side by side, with the rapidity of arrows, past dark inlets and
fantastically jutting points of land, clothed with primeval woods,
and stretching precipitately down to the water's edge. My men
are asleep, and no sound is audible save the loud breathing of
the boatmen and the measured beat of the oars. Involuntarily
our thoughts fly homewards to the dear ones in Germany ;
night bridges over the barriers of space. Thus we travel
onwards through the night till towards the morning. From
time to time we glide by small islands, rising out of the water
on the left.
-1 STORM IN EQUATORIAL AFRICA.
4G7
I had intended travelling as far as Biikoba that night, Inir
towards three o'clock the thnnderclonds from the east spread
above us, squalls of wind set in, and we considered ourselves
ibrtunate that au' \^ere
enabled, by the greatest
exertions of the boatmen,
to reach the Bay .
• An ap-
of Makonga just proacMng
, ,. ' ' storm.
Iietore the storm
came rattling down upon
us. Tlie tents were rapidly
pitched, and the baggage
hurriedly deposited in
them. Whilst the light-
ning flashed, the thunder
rolk'd, and heavy rain came
down, I made myself com-
tbrtable in one of the
liouses of the village, where my Somalis were quartered. Foi"
my column I had still at my disposal thirty-three Ijoats, aud the
smaller ones, which were behind, had taken refuge where they
Voyage along the Coast of r.u.siBA.
468 NE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
could along the coast. In the morning, passing hy Makonga,
they proceeded earlier than ourselves direct to Bukoba, where
the meeting-place had been appointed.
Before starting for that place I had to inflict a mild punish-
ment on my servant Buana Mku. On the previous
Mku'smis- evening I had put aside from my supper half a fowl,
ijehaviour. ^jj^^j^ j ^^^ asked him to set before me that I
might finish it.
" The half fowl ? " said Buana Mku. " Why, you ate that
up yesterday evening," he continued, with a bold front, fancying
that I had forgotten all about the affair.
My servants might have had half a fowl, and welcome, as
there was no lack of provisions, but the audacity of lying thus
Summary to my face iuduced me once more to teach Buana Mku
punishment. ^j^a,t it is best to stick to the truth in all the circum-
stances of life. Twenty-five lashes caused him to incline more
and more to this opinion.
We then set off for Bukoba, which we reached after a pas-
., , , , sase of two or three hours. On the left, opposite the
Island of '^ . p -n •
Bukerebe, Bay of Bukoba, the little island oi Bukerebe rises
picturesquely from the water. To the south are
grouped a few more small islands ; they are all deserted. As
the Waganda have taken possession of the whole lake, the in-
habitants prefer to settle in the interior of the country, to avoid
being continually molested by passing fleets from Uganda.
Bukoba is the chief point of southern Busiba. From here I
was told Karague could be reached in three stages. I gave
orders to have the camp pitched upon a green meadow, about
twenty-five feet above the level of the lake, commanding an
exquisite view of the bay. High woods framed in the meadow
at the back. The whole formed a landscape of remarkable
beauty, and seemed, by its unique position, to invite the esta-
blishment of a station. Later on, in Mpuapua, I recommended
the spot to Emin Pasha for this purpose. It is the more
particularly suited for a station as provisions are to be had
in abundance in the neighbourhood, and the harbour offers
good anchorage for boats.
THE SULTAN'S SUBMISSION j—BUJIBIDE. 469
Immediately on m}' arrival I sent Stephano, with some
soldiers, to the Sultan of the country, to summon him to a con-
ference. He had no desire to be on unfriendly terms The suitan
with us, and at once sent considerable tribute offerings, summoned,
both for the men and for ourselves. As a return gift, I sent him
in the evening some gunpowder, pieces of stuff, and a few finger-
rings, and again, on the following day, received from him three
oxen for slaughtering, a flock of sheep and goats, as well as
milk and honey in abundance. The Sultan, who, on the first
day, had sent his sons to welcome me, himself appeared on the
second day, a Sunday, to offer his submission. He promises of
promised most unequivocally to pay the tribute de- submission,
manded by Muanga so soon as Nugula should arrive with his
boats for the purpose of collecting it. Here, too, my task was
now fulfilled, and I spent a most happy Sunday afternoon on
April 6th.
It was Easter Sunday, and the spirit of Easter pervaded our
hearts. The moon was full that evening, and we conversed
together in front of my tent until late into the night. ^
We were awakened early next day by a downpour Easter
of rain, which lasted the whole morning, and pre-
vented our starting till towards noon. At one o'clock the sun
burst forth, and we set forth, hoping to reach the island of
Bumbide (called by Stanley Bumbiie) that evening. Here
Stanley had experienced " the day ol terror in Bumbire," as
he calls it, on which the natives wanted to drag him out of his
boat by the ears, and threatened him with death ; a island of
fate which he only escaped by rapid flight. From B^'^i'i*^-
here he hastened back towards the south, to the island he calls
" Refuge Island " (Banderema), lying opposite Soswa.
I was most curious to make the acquaintance of the wild
tribes that had inspired a Stanley with such fear.
Towards seven o'clock in the evening the high shores of
Bumbide showed themselves straight in front of us. For an
hour we rowed parallel with them, in a southerly direction.
On landing at eight o'clock we went up a steep incline,
upon which villages were scattered. Who shall describe my
470 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
astonishment at discovering an inoffensive, timid people, who
eagerly strove to anticipate all our wishes, immediately turned
. out of their dwellings for us, lent a hand in pitching our
ness of the teuts, and brought in as much food as was to be had
na ives. ^.^ ^^^ island ! It struck me these people must have
changed considerably since Stanley's first visit, and this idea
was in no way altered during my further stay on the island.
The following morning was wet again, as usual, and I was
unable to start until noon for the most southern of the three
Bumbide islands, which I reached in the evening. Here the
camp had to be crowded into a small space on the shore, which
was unpleasant, as I had between nine hundred and a thousand
men with me. The evenings were now very enjoyable for us,
as we were provided with the materials for lighting, which I had
devised in Uganda, namely, a large earthenware pot filled with
grease, into which we stuck three or four wicks, which were set
alight, and lit up the darkness with a flickering radiance. This
Avas all the more convenient as the moon, upon whose light we
had hitherto depended, was nightly on the wane.
On the morning of April 9th I climbed the steep ascent of
Bumbide, to gain a view over the lake and the surrounding
View of landscape. Far away to the south-east a speck was
lake pointed out to me as being Soswa, the destination of
Victoria (~> ^
our voyage for to-day. To the south extended a whole
circle- of islands, which partially veiled the south-west side of
Lake Victoria from view, yet not sufficiently to prevent our
being able to follow the line of the coast behind them. My
people informed me this was the land of Usindja, extending
along the south-west of the lake. I returned in joyful mood to
the camp, for to-day would see the end of our southern course,
and we were to turn to the east.
We set off at about eight o'clock, and pursued our journey
at first still in a southward direction. Then on reaching the
Course to- ^^^^^^ ^^' Rubili, where some of the people hoped to be
wards allowed to encamp, I gave the order to turn to the
east, towards boswa. It was a wonderfully fine after-
noon. The air was clear, and we could see far into the
VOLCANIC TRACTS :~ENCAMPMENT OF SOSWA. 471
■distance. The group of islands we left behind us on the south,
whose circular wreath towards the north is formed by the
Bumbide islands, looked picturesque and even strange, and
led the mind to reflections as to their origin. On this after-
noon T recognised more than ever that the region of Lake
Victoria was one of powerful volcanic activity. Everywhere
along the lake I could discover traces of the water volcanic
having retreated, and at Ukumbi I learnt from Mon- ""^^^^ °^
seigneur Hirth that the water continued to rise during victoria,
a period of seventeen years, and then fell again during an equal
cycle of seventeen years. Whether this would lead to the
conclusion that the bed of Lake Victoria is subject to periodical
shocks, I am unable to say, but am inclined to conjecture that
this is the case. In like manner, although in longer periods of
time, the shores and beds of oceans rise and fall. If these
regular alternations in the level of the waters really take place,
they can hardly be explained in any other way.
These were my reflections on April 9th, as we made for the
island of Soswa, which became visible on the distant horizon.
The sun went down, but Soswa was not yet reached. Our
flotilla had long disappeared behind us ; only Herr von Tiede-
mann's boat, my own, and a third one, kept an equal speed. It
was nine o'clock when we came abreast of the foremost ite soswa
of the Soswa isles. It was covered with primeval forest, i^i^^ids-
and the wind, which had risen, dashed the waves with -a weird
sound against the wall of rock. We passed by several islands,
bearing through a sort of canal, until at last, when it was already
ten o'clock at night, we landed upon a rocky and inhospitable
shore in the south of one of them. Pushing through low brush-
wood, we succeeded in reaching an open declivity, where we
could pitch our tents. I established the men in some^^^.^.^.^^
dilapidated huts, such as the Waganda have everywhere encamp-
prepared for their night encampment on their voyages.
They were primitive straw huts, but offered protection from the
inclemency of the weather. Many of my men, amongst them
all the Somalis, had become seasick on the passage. Had it
been necessary to fight just then we should have fared but badly.
472 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
That night another terrible thunderstorm, with \yind and
heavy rain, broke upon us, rendering the tent, with its project-
ing roof, highly dangerous, while the violent gusts threatened
every moment to carry it away. We obtained but little sleep,
but on the following morning the golden sun smiled once more
upon the glorious lake, whose southern shores were now before
our eyes, and cheerfulness reigned around, when at eight
Arrival . ,- j>ii-i
of missing o'clock it was anuouuced that some oi the lagging boats
of the previous evening had already passed Soswa in the
early hours of the morning, on their way to Bandelundo, where
it was our intention to encamp that day. At once I gave the
order for the boats moored at Soswa to start, eleven of them
having come in during the night.
If our encampment in Soswa had been inhospitable and
comfortless, we were richly compensated in Bandelundo. Here
Encam ^^^ ^feve able to set up our encampment on level ground,
ment in beneath the shadow of a huge cotton tree. The sun
' shone bright. There was a sufficiency of provisions at
hand, as we still had with us some of the sheep from the Massai
flocks, and grain that we had brought from Sesse.
Thus we passed a pleasant afternoon and evening at
Bandelundo, cheered by the knowledge that the voyage, which
gradually began to become very wearisome, would, please God,
in two days be at an end.
All these small islands have a very singular appearance, as
they are very rocky, and often form the quaintest shapes. They
generally rise sharp and white out of the blue water, conjuring
A quiet up fantastic ideas in the mind, especially in the moon-
journey. light. We Continued to steer past groups or separate
islands, which gave the mind cause for reflections of various
kinds. But the charm of novelty had vanished from our
passage. As a rule, I used to open my umbrella, and take up
to read, out of our little library, some volume that had not
been too often studied before. Just then I was once more read-
ing Bulwer's " Last Days of Pompeii," and, in truth, surroundings
more calculated to bring before the mind the events in sunny
Pompeii could scarcely be imagined. That day we ran to the
THE ISLANDS OF KURU AND DJUMA. 473
island of Kuru, situated opposite to Kome, whose inhabitants
alone have been successful in resisting the Waganda, Arrival at
and consequently live in bitter enmity with them. We ^°^^-
saw cattle at Kome and the smoke of hut fires. I would gladly
have sent across to get food from thence, as the corn for my
men was beginning to run low, but I had no stuffs to offer in
payment, and it went against my conscience to attack a tribe,
whose bravery and independence, in the face of the dreaded
Waganda, I could not but recognise and admire in secret.
The shore of Kuru, by which we encamped, is very stony,
and it was with difficulty that a place was found where Tiede-
mann and I could pitch our tents. We knew that on ^
^ Encamp-
the following day we could reach Nyagesi, the French ment at
Mission station, and were consequently in a very excited
state of mind as we sat after supper drinking our tea by the light
of our primitive lamp. In Nyagesi, we were told, there was a fine
dwelling-house, and we were even dazzled with the prospect of a
room on the first floor. Besides, we had been told at comforts of
Sesse, that European tobacco was to be had there, and ei'^^ii^atioii.
that after months of abstinence we could once more indulge in
a glass of cognac and water. All this excited the imagination
to joyous anticipation, and it was eleven o'clock when, in high
spirits, M'e retired to bed.
In the morning we continued our voyage, passing first along
by the island of Kome, and then by the mainland, which in the
south-west stood out every moment more sharply and distinctly.
Once more the weather was glorious, and at twelve o'clock we
passed the island of Djuma, where Stephano proposed to me
again to set up our camp, which I, however, declined to do. We
then turned south-eastwards, and now the shores to the nj^ma and
left, leading in the direction of the creek of Ukumbi, ^^™''^'
became more and more distinctly visible. We could distinctly
perceive that we were approaching the end of our voyage on the
lake ; but the whole afternoon passed away before we reached the
entrance to the sound. At about half-past five we rowed by the
marvellously shaped south-west corner of the entrance, and noticed
to our left the peculiar, skittle-shaped granitic rocks and basalt
474 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
formations which lend to the coast of Usukuma such an original
character. In the middle of the somid rises a steep little island,
covered with primeval forest, which we left on our right. We
approached nearer and nearer to the eastern side of the sound,
where the settlements and iires of the Wasukuma could be seen.
The oarsmen were extremely exhausted by the exertions of the
last few days, but now they once more put forth all their
strength, and with a cheerful singing of songs we approached the
spot where, in the twilight, the outlines of the Roman
Catholic o J
Hissionof Catholic Missiou of Nyagesi were pointed out to me.
yagesi. J g^QQjj ^j^ ^jjg hows of the boat, expectantly awaiting
the moment of arrival and the meeting with the brethren of the
Mission. We approached the shore, passing by wonderful for-
mations of rock. The boat ran in ; I jumped out, and was
accosted from the darkness with words of greeting certainly
spoken in a strong Alsatian accent.
" Welcome to you, gentlemen ! I am astonished to see you
so soon. Your coming has already been announced to me by a
A welcome letter from Monseigneur Livinhac. I am Monseigneur
in German, jjirtt^ and I presume that I am addressing Dr. Peters."
I called out joyfully, " Good evening ! It is indeed a glad
surprise to me to be greeted here in the German tongue. Herr
von Tiedemann will be here directly ; his boat is immediately
behind mine."
My words were presently fulfilled ; and so we strode onward
together, through fields of maize and kitchen gardens, towards the
large square yard surrounded by buildings, on the left of which the
brightly lighted rooms of the priests' dwelling of the missionary
station of Nyagesi gleamed a hospitable welcome upon us. We
traversed a long corridor, and Monseigneur Hirth ushered Herr von
Tiedemann and myself to the separate dormitories that had been
prepared for us. After a hasty toilet, we repaired to Monseigneur
Hirth's sitting-room, where Pere Guyaut and the Brother of the
station were introduced to us. I handed over the letters
A sumptu-
ous civilised from Uganda, after reading which Monseigneur Hirth
bade us welcome once again. We were then conducted
to the refectory, where we found awaiting us what was, according
PROSPECTS OF RETURN— NEWS FROM EUROPE. 475
to our ideas, a right royal meal. First came a vegetable soup,
prepared in the French fashion ; next came fish, potatoes, bread,
kohl-rabi, beetroot and cabbage, roast mutton and fricassee of
fowl ; then, as a concluding course, cheese, butter, and fruit,
with which we drank cool banana wine, the whole feast wind-
ing up with a small glass of clear banana spirit. Who could
blame us if our mood was a very excited and merry one ?
Behind us lay the dangers and discomforts of the Victoria
JN^yanza, and we now were actually upon the soil of the German
East African colony. Our return to the coast and to our homes,
which hitherto appeared as a dream in the hazy distance, became
from that day a fact upon which we could once more practically
reckon, and our thoughts were duly directed to the future.
True, I had still many cares before me. Considering „
•' , '^ Hopes and
the treatment I had experienced since the beginning of antioipa-
the expedition, I had to be prepared to encounter fresh
difficulties of a similar kind, so soon as I should reach the
territories adjoining the coast. But my nerves had been braced
by what now lay behind us, and I had long accustomed myself,
when new difficulties and dangers arose in our path, to apply
to ourselves the old saying, -^ I think we also can bear this
like men."
In holiday mood, I awoke the next day in a whitewashed
bedroom. In Nyagesi, in the library of P^re Schynse, I had
come upon a number of German and French papers, though
they certainly only came down as far as the previous August,
amongst others the German Colonial newspaper and News from
the Mouvement Geographique, of Brussels, in which ^"™p*-
we read the first account, though in a very distorted and in-
correct form, of our landing at Kwaihu Bay. I rose, according
to my custom, before six o'clock, and seated myself, in the quiet
peace of that Sunday dawn, in the cloister of the station, giving
m3'self up to peaceful reflection.
At six o'clock the Mission bell rang for service, and I too
bent my spirit in humility before God, who had safely led us
hither through all dangers and difficulties. We then met in.
the refectory for a sumptuous breakfast, after which I wrote
476 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
reports to Germany, which were to be forwarded at once next
Reports for niorning to the coast by express messengers, namely,
home. jj^y t^yo porters, Farialla and Pemba Moto. I was the
more anxious to send these despatches as quickly as might be,
as further details had been made known to me in Nyagesi
respecting our reported collapse, and I was ignorant whether
our relatives in Germany had been already reassured as to our
position, by later information. Therefore I wrote a report of
some length to the German Emin Pasha Expedition committee,
and to the German Colonial Company. As the first of these
reports is characteristic of my state of mind on that day, I give
it here, although extracts from it were published some time
since in the German Colonial Gasette : — ■
" I am told here, on my arrival in Usukuma, that it has
been reported in Europe our expedition had failed, and that I
myself was dead. The remark has been added, that this was
Real con- just what had been predicted, for all the world knew
tife Massai that it would be impossible to pass through the Massai
country, couutry with an expedition such as mine ; that I had
voluntarily rushed to my ruin, etc., etc. I beg the honourable
committee kindly to allow me to make the following remarks, in
all humility : —
"1. Firstly, being on the spot, I was probably in a better
position than our critics in Europe, or on the coast, to judge of
the possibility or impossibility of accomplishing my expedition
with the means at my disposal. It was never my intention to
endanger, like a madman, the lives of those entrusted
A small D J >
column to my care. If, nevertheless, I pushed forward with
my small column, it was because I did not consider the
obstacles in our path to be insurmountable, despite all the talk
that was made about them ; and the result fully vindicated the
correctness of my view.
" 2. The difference between my estimate and that of others
regarding the difficulties to be encountered, simply lies in the
fact that I have but little belief in Arabs or Africans taking
the initiative, and therefore feel confident that a certain union
'-Pk.
l/^ \'}
~**k'. *+•
CONDITIONS OF AFRICAN TRAVEL. 477
of prudence and quick resolve will carry one through. The
dangers of Massailand did not frighten me. The travellers who
tell us of them — Thomson and Dr. Fischer — never as-
1 1 , , Arabs and
sumed a resolute attitude towards these somewhat im- Africans un-
pudent sons of the wilderness, and therefore could not he *®p™*^^^®-
a,ccepted as authorities concerning the difficulties of this march.
In reality, these dangers are in nowise so formidable as people
say and believe, and my march through this territory, though I
had only about sixty or seventy men altogether, had nothing of
the conjurer about it, though not without its difficulties, and
though on certain days our situation was, to some extent, grave.
I sincerely hope that if our example be followed, the so-called
' Massai dangers ' will in a short time be heard of no „
° . Massai
more. At any rate, there can be no question of my dangers ex-
havmg carelessly risked the lives entrusted to my
keeping, seeing that I was enabled pretty correctly to estimate
■existing dangers ; and, as the result has shown, I did not under-
rate them.
"3. It appears to me that, in general, a host of prejudices
■exist concerning African travel, which, in the interest of opening
out this quarter of the world, ought to be set aside as Africa to be
•quickly as possible. Foremost among these fallacies is "p*''^'^ ""*■
the idea that it is necessary to start with a great quantity of
articles for barter, and a large number of porters, to penetrate
into Central Africa. As every porter consumes monthly, on an
average, the value of a ' doti ' and a half of stuff, it can soon
be calculated in what space of time he will have eaten up the
•equivalent of his load. If it should be thought that the larger
the number of men the greater the capability of resistance, I
can only say that, in this respect, everything depends upon
•organisation, and that a small force is more easily organised than
a large one. The Mgwagwana proper is cowardly, and by his
bad example demoralises the better-disposed elements of j^^^^^^^^.^
the expedition. We have proofs of this in the Arab expe- of expe-
1 1 1 1. i ditions.
■ditions, thousands of men strong, who have been beaten
by the Massais. The English expeditions in Eastern Africa that
advanced at the same time as I did, though they counted their
478 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
hundreds, were not, I am convinced, nearly so well prepared for
fighting, or so capable of resistance, as mine, in which I knew
every man, and in which all were animated by one and the
Bribery to Same spirit. The danger of being too well supplied with
be avoided, articles for barter is, that these are sometimes used
to stave off fighting by paying tribute, which only lowers the
feeling of respect for the white race, and increases the simple
arrogance of the African. I shall be glad if a comparison
between the Emin Pasha Expedition and those undertaken by
others results in proving that I have never been guilty of this
cardinal fault. The result has also shown, that our expedition
has been respected, in all countries, in a manner becoming the
dignity of the European race. Even in these countries our
enemies prefer to take to flight at our approach, as, for example,.
, ^ in the west of the Nyanza the powerful Arab, Kimbulu,.
A resolute -' '^ ' _ _ '
front to be who has oue hundred elephant-hunters, fled, with all his
following, whom I had undertaken to drive out of the
country. The tribes who wish to remain on friendly terms with
us have always been well treated. Without exception, we never
fought save when we were called upon to do so righteously, in
our own defence.
"4. In this way our expedition, although Emin had unfor-
tunately been previously obliged to quit his country, which is
ever to be regretted, has always been able to work in the spirit
Use of the ^^^^^ l^d US hither. It was reserved to the German
German Ex-Emin Pasha Expedition to explore the whole Tana.
pedition. .
territory, and Usoga also. We were enabled to conduct
Muanga and his party back to Uganda, and thus to erect in the
north of the Nyanza Lake a Christian barrier against Islam ; to
attach Uganda, by virtue of the Congo settlement and the prin-
Priucipies ciple of the suppression of the slave trade, to the half-
tianit^and civilised states of Africa, such as Zanzibar, and to clear
freedom, ^j^g Western coast of the Victoria Nyanza from Arab-
influence. This was mainly the object kept in view in our
movement for the countries of the Upper Nile, whereby we hoped
to further the culture and development of Central Africa, of
which we justly considered Emin Pasha as the pioneer. I believe
PROSPECTS OF FUTURE EXPLORATION. 47&
that Europe generally will be inclined greatly to underrate the
importance of this Emin Pasha Expedition. But perhaps the far-
sighted will appreciate the moral influence which the advance
of so many expeditions for the rescue of one remarkable white
man must exercise over the whole of Central Africa. This fact
has stamped us in these countries as a superior race, and this is
a gain for all time. All honour to Stanley, to whom it
was reserved to conduct Emin Pasha back to the world acMeve-
of the white race.* But we, too, have been allowed to ™^° ^'
help to establish the conviction that the abandonment of the
position on the Upper Nile is only an episode, and that the word
' Tutarudi' ('We shall return ') is still engraven on all
hearts. If Europe wishes to extend this conviction to be main-
over the entire north-eastern part of this portion of the *^'^* '
globe, it would be desirable to send a strong expedition through
the lands of the Somalis and Gallas, in order to. impress these
stubborn tribes too with a sense of our superiority, and at
length to avenge the murder of Von der Decken. The explora-
tion of the entire Juba territory would be the geographical
outcome of this expedition, which is really demanded in our
time. Such an expedition, although undertaken from ^^^^ ^^ ^
quite other ethical and geographical points of departure, new expe-
would naturally take up the views and, perhaps, too, the
geographical aims of the Emin Pasha Expedition, and thus
would be lifted the last fold of the veil of mystery that now
hangs over Eastern Africa.
"5. It appears to me, as I look back upon our own under-
takings, that the great struggle for Eastern Africa, which was
carried on there between Europeans and Arabs, has been decided
in our favour. The Arab rule has been worsted along the whole
line. This is due, in the first place, to the action of the German
Government by means of Captain ^Yissmann ; but Stanley,
Count Teleki, and ourselves may have contributed to the result.
Stanley, inasmuch as he defeated the tribes between the Congo
and Mwutan Rzige, as well as the ^Yanyero and Wanera ; Teleki^
* So I still thought on April 13th, 1890.
480 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
by overthrowing the Wakikuju and Wasuka ; and we, by de-
monstrating the superiority of European arms to the Wagalla,
Wadsagga, Wakikuju, and Massais, not to mention
already smaller tribes, supporting the Christian party in
Uganda, and breaking Arab influence in the west of
the lake, have worked for Christianity in Eastern and Central
Africa. Lastly, all these undertakings represent one great
general whole, and in this moral connection the German Emin
Pasha Expedition must be included. If it were looked upon in
this light, much of the former antagonism against this enter-
prise would vanish, and it would be allowed that, although
apparently the enterprise has failed in its object, it has not
laboured in vain in the service of the great moral ideas which
are at this moment struggling for realisation in Africa.
" I have the honour to sign myself, with unalterable respect,
the honourable committee's most devoted servant,
" Gael Petees.
" P.S. — I hope to be in Zanzibar by the end of June, and
to bring with us Monseigneur Livinhac, who has been appointed
Superior of the Mission at Algiers."
After these reports had been finished, and I had written a
few private letters, I took a charming evening walk, with '
Monseigneur Hirth, through the plantations of the Mission,
which proved to me what can be accomplished in this country
A pros- by honest persevering work. The most various kinds
gion^oV* of European vegetables were growing here. A great
industry, gtretch of land had been cleared and planted with
bananas, which had been introduced from Uganda. Everywhere
willing industry and the blessed fruits of work !
We were still absorbed in these reflections, when suddenly
a noise from the shore attracted our attention, and we were
informed of the approach of the remainder of my boats, which
had not come up on the previous evening. We hastened down
to the shore, and, sure enough, there we could count more than
twenty boats, all appearing at about the same spot from behind
COMFORTABLE PROSPECTS FOR THE EXPEDITION. 481
the islands we had passed the daj- hefore. As soon as they
perceived the shore they fell into line, and went throu^jh some
evolutions and manoeuvres of various kinds. They Arrival of
then ran in, and I was quickly surrounded by my *® ^°^*^-
missing men, whom I had not seen since we were at Bumbide.
I hastened to give out cloth stuffs among them the same
evening, that they might provide themselves abundantly with
food. They were lodged in the houses of the Mission station.
j^t\mi"^
USUKUMA WOJIAJJ I'REPAEING (JOEX.
and soon a cheeriiil bustling activity reigned amongst the
men, who were now convinced— what they had hitherto often
doubted— that they should succeed in getting back to their
own country.
On April 14th I decided to remove, with some of my men,
to Ukumbi, which lies some miles south of Nyagesi.^ Herr von
Tiedemann also made up his mind to go there for a few Eemovai to
days, and preferred to proceed by boat. As the Arabs
at Margo had not yet acknowledged German supremacy, I con-
sidered it important at once to hoist the German flag m
31
482 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Ukiimbi, and, by treaty, to bring the country under German
protection, the more so as the French Mission had directly
requested me to do so.
On the morning of April 14th Pere Guyaut had taken a
photograph of our camp and our Askaris. In the afternoon
I started, with Hussein Fara and a few other Somalis, and my
private servants, and got to Ukumbi towards the evening.
Heavy rain had again fallen, and everything looked fresh and
green. It is true that the water, lying in the road, considerably
impeded our progress, but a tropical landscape always gains by
the watery element. The peculiar basaltic pillars,
through granitic formations, which I had already noticed from
the boats, distinguished, as I now found, all this part
of Usukuma. The road continues to lead past such formations,
and here and there a glimpse is to be obtained of Lake Victoria
on the right. On reaching a village half way between Nyagesi
and Ukumbi I was met by a donkey, which Monseigneur Hirth,
who had gone over that morning, had kindly sent for my use,
so that the rest of my journey was accomplished in a very
comfortable manner. Over a broad marsh we went slowly up
hill, through villages intersected by broad roads between green
hedges, surrounded by mtama and maize fields. Suddenly, on
our left, upon the slope of one of the above-mentioned hills, the
handsome Mission station of Ukumbi came in view.
The sun was setting as we approached, and the bells of
the church were ringing for vespers. We entered, through an
•Welcome h ^'^'^hway, into a square court surrounded by buildings.
Monseig- Monseigneur Hirth appeared on the verandah, and ran
down the steps to welcome me.
The bells rang out solemnly through the twilight, as
Monseigneur conducted me to his study. Here the sight of
a, writing table, with a bookshelf above it, made me at once
aware, that I was in a spot where the culture and mental
industry of Europe were represented in the heart of Africa.
CHAPTER XII.
FROM LAKE VIOTORIA TOWARDS
HOME.
■' Bending to mighty
Iron laws, eternal,
Must we accomplish,
One and all among us.
The circle of our being."
Goethe,
THE station of Xj'agesi had, at the
request of ^lous. Lourdel, been
speciality erected for the
accommodation of AVa-
taking
,_^ -^ » ucL-iimmuiiaiion oj
refuf^e in Ustikuma. It was now managed from Ukumlii.
As a rule, Pere Guyaut \Yeut over on the Saturday to hold a
48-i ^^EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
serA'ice there on Sunda}-, returning to the station on Monday.
During the weeks of our stay in these parts, Pere Guyaut
The Mission remained, with one of the Brethren, at Nyagesi, await-
its^oecV^ ing the arrival of Monseigneur Livinhac. Hitherto
pants. Monseigneur Hirth had been the superior of Nyagesi
and Ukumbi, but he had just then been appointed head of the
Catholic Missions round Lake Victoria in the room of Monseig-
neur Livinhac, who was recalled to Europe. Monseigneur
Hirth is a tall, spare man, wearing a thin beard and gold spec-
tacles. He bears the stamp of a German savant, and is deeply
versed in the dogmas of his religion. He speaks and writes good
German, though his pronunciation betrays a strong Alsatian
accent. Our conversation was carried on alternately in German
and French, and many an evening we discussed the differences
in the doctrine of our several churches.
Soon after my arrival I was introduced by Monseigneur
Hirth to Monseigneur Hautecoeur, Pere Procureur of the station,
a very intelligent and interesting little man, who had
Procureur spent loug years in Unjanjembe, and was able to give
'me much important infoi'mation concerning Arab doings
there. Having a very strong sense of humour, Monseigneur
Hautecoeur contributed most essentially to our entertainment at
table. He manages all the business matters of the station,
and is skilful in all manner of industries, from turning and
carpentering, to making cartridges and repairing guns. I used
to enjoy walking over to his lodgings of an afternoon, and
watching him at his work.
Over and above these two, there was a serving Brother at
Ukumbi, who, sad to say, soon after my arrival was attacked by
Labours of dysentery, of which he died during my stay. This man
the serving had made himself very valuable to the station by lay-
Brother. . ^ n • 1 . T , J J
mg out a garden, m which he had cultivated many
European vegetables, and fruit from the coast, oranges amongst
the rest. This garden was below the buildings, and was
watered by a mountain stream, turned from its course for
the purpose.
The whole settlement had, for the benefit of health, been
THE CLIMATE OF USUKUMA. 435
built upon a height, upon the eastern side of the very interest-
ing creek ; but even this fact was not sufficient to protect it
against fever miasmas. Unlike Uganda, the Usukuma
country suffers from considerable drought, and, as I was llL^i.
informed, looks quite burnt up during eight months of ^'''''"""*'
the year. This drought is often very injurious to agriculture
Wasukuma.
and thus it comes that the inhabitants have mostly employed
their energies in the rearing of cattle. I was told that during
the dry season the beasts are driven into the forests, but I could
not quite understand how the people contrived to feed such
myriads of cattle the whole year through. When I saw Usukuma,
which was during the rainy season, the whole country looked like
a fresh, verdant meadow. In the fields maize and mtama were
blooming and ripening, as well as sweet potatoes and flourishing
486 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
bean fields, so that I was forcibly reminded of our marsh lands
in Lower Germany, when I looked across these plains,
aspect of bordered only by the distinguishing skittle-shaped rocks
mentioned above. The inhabitants of this country also
exhibit the characteristics of the dAvellers in marshy plains.
They are heavy and sleepy, but, as it appears, reliable and steady.
On the whole, we may regard Usukuma as a valuable possession,
as the Wasukuma, beyond a doubt, make the best bearers, and
have in every way good capabilities for work. They have a
great predilection for establishing relations with the coast and the
white race, and will unquestionably, in the future, count amongst
our most useful subjects. I place them higher in value even
than the Wanjamwesi, more particularly because the latter
„ ^ ,. have for centuries been under Arab influences, to which
Good quali-
ties of the the "Wasukuma are decidedly averse. These people
V^^fl. R 11 K 1 1 TTl fl.
'soon attached themselves to me, and from all sides came
petitions and entreaties to give them a German flag ; petitions I
was unable to grant, for the sole reason that I had no more flags
in my possession.
In solemn form I hoisted our flag at Ukumbi, on the morn-
ing of April 16th, thus taking possession, for Germany, of the
Hoistin ^o^th side of Lake Victoria. Through the interven-
the German tion of Monseigneur Livinhac I had, in the first place,
^^' entered into a treaty with the Sultan of Ukumbi, in
which he recognises German sovereignty, and begs for the flag.
It was th&n with due solemnity hoisted in his capital, in a lofty
position, and saluted by us with volleys from our firearms. It
was visible, also, to all the boats coming from the north into
the creek.
The Arabs of Margo, as I learnt from Monseigneur Hirth,
had fled into the forests on hearing of our approach, taking with
Flight of them large quantities of ivory ; and the opinion was
the Arahs. general in the south of the lake that, after the hoisting
of the German flag, they would altogether disappear from that
region. Their wealth, in the shape of ivory, already at that
time roused the people of the place to propose plundering expe-
ditions against them ; but I refused all offfers of this kind, as I
MR. STOKES'f< ESTABLISiniENT.
487
was insufficiently acquainted Avith the country, and, in view of
my small stock of ammunition, was obliged, moreover, to avoid
every imprudent step. It Avas afterwards reported in Eur(ipe
that the Wasukuma subsequently set to work, on their own
account, to slaughter
the Arabs, and pro-
bably took possession
of their ivory.
The day alter the hoisting
of our flag, Herr von Tiedemann v
returned to Nyagesi, as the accommo-
dation at Ukumbi was rather limited; and
now began a few exceptional weeks of won- ^
derfully calm existence for the expedition, which
had o-one through so manv adventures ot every
kind in getting here. In Ukumbi there was an esta- Mrjt.kes-s
blishment belon<fing to a Mr. Strikes, which comprised ^ent k.
several Wangwana and a number ol ieniale siaACs.^
Here my people found amusement by day and by night, and
the beer-jug was never empty. The temper ot the people
488 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
was one of great self-complacence. I could scarcely refrain
from smiling, when I saw them dressed up in all sorts of
tinsel finery, strutting, with their heads high in the air,
among the natives, at whom they scarcely deigned to
glance ; or when, lounging by the pombe-pot round the camp-
fires, they related to the horrified listeners stories about the
Massais and Waganda. They now, for the first time
Distribu- . ° -11
tionof during the expedition, received regular poscho, the
pose 0. Catholic Mission having been enabled to sell me a
sufficient quantity of stuff, accepting in payment a cheque on
Zanzibar. They could pay for their own food ; but, in the
beginning, they still followed their old habit of simply seizing
upon what they wanted, without taking the trouble of pur-
chasing, and were intensely surprised when I responded to this
action on their part by an energetic application of my
to the hippopotamus-hide whip. Only by degrees did they
' become accustomed to respect, in the Wasukuma, German
subjects and men, like themselves, under German protection.
The course of each day in Ukumbi passed very quietly, in
idyllic fashion for me. I occupied a comfortable little room, in
The order ^^i^^ I made a practice of reading or writing during
of the day the morning. I rose at six to attend the roll-call of
■ my men, who had to wait for me drawn up in rank and
file in front of the verandah. We then partook of breakfast in
the refectory, after which an hour was spent in each other's
company in the cool verandah, smoking a pipe of European
tobacco. Then I used to pay a visit to my Somalis, who occu-
pied a tent to the left of the station. Afterwards I wrote reports
or read until twelve o'clock, when the bell called us into the
luxuries of refectory to luncheon, which consisted of soup, roast
civUisedhfe. jjQ^eat, Vegetables, bread, butter, and cheese ; and a glass
of cognac and water tended to promote cheerfulness. After
luncheon, another pipe was smoked, to the accompaniment of a
cup of coffee. Each one then retired to his own room. I read,
or paid a visit to Monseigneur Hautecceur. Soon after four I
called for Monseigneur Hirth or Monseigneur Hautecceur, to take
a walk in the neighbourhood. We explored the country around.
QUIET LIFE IN UKUMBI. 489
or we would go to the lake to catch a fish, or into the village to
buy honey. At six o'clock came vespers, and at half-past seven
we once more met in the refectory for the chief meal of the day,
which was followed by long conversations in the room, or, if the
mosquitoes were not too dangerously inclined, in the verandah.
It will be allowed that such a mode of life in the interior of
Africa is pleasant enough, and some surprise may be felt when
I relate that no more than a week had passed before I Desire to
became conscious of an almost irresistible longing to ** *■* '""^'^•
do something, no matter what — either to attack the Arabs of
Margo, or to drive back the hostile inhabitants from the other
side of the creek. This desire for action had been too highly
strung up, to be rapidly brought down to the level of the quiet
enjoyment of life. Then would come hours when the mind,
almost exhausted, like an electric battery, was inclined to lose
itself in dreamy reflections and poetic thought. Every effort of
will subsided, and the soul became quite the " world-contem-
plating eye " of Schopenhauer. The great problems of existence
stood forth in all their distinctness, and, as in earlier years, the
mind struggled to solve them.
Sometimes I also took part in the Roman Catholic service.
When at six o'clock the bell chimed for prayer, the longings of
childhood crept into my heart. I betook myself to the gervicV in
chapel, which was illuminated by wax lights and ^^^ "^^p^^-
redolent of incense. In this chapel was a harmonium, on
which Monseigneur Hirth was accustomed to play with the
touch of a master ; and when, to the sound of this instrument,
the children sang their Latin hymns with harmonious voices,
the soul was touched with a sweet melancholy. On listening for
the first time to this music a profound feeling of sadness and
pity for myself came upon me. All the passionate struggles
and combats of the last few months passed in review before
my mind, and I was fain to cover my face with my hands, to
repress a convulsive sobbing.
At such moments, differences of doctrine in the several
creeds vanish from the mind. " Feeling is everything, name is
but sound and smoke;" and music, which, according to Schopen-
490 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
hauer, is the direct reflection of human aspirations, awakens
sentiment, even in a higher degree, amidst the threatening
surroundings of African life, than it does in the concert stalls
of Europe.
Thus the days went by in a dreamy uniform fashion. Of
INIonseigneur Livinhac we heard no tidings. The rainy season
■Waiting Avas now upon us in all its force ; torrents of rain
s°e^ig^e«r poured daily from the clouds, mostly accompanied by
Livinhac. thuuder and lightning. From Usukumba, as well as
from Usumbiro, came tidings of heavy floods, which, it was
said, rendered the roads to the coast impassable for the time.
My men fell ill one after another, and on April 24th Herr
A'on Tiedemann himself was attacked by violent fever. On
the 25th I lost my efficient little Musa from Dar-es-Salam,
who, after Nogola's death, had been sole leader of the porters.
He had gone with two companions from Dar-es-Salam, to bathe
in an inlet of the Nyanza. Hassani, who, by the way, was
Musa's brother, and one of his two companions, stand-
Musa de- ' . \ t i
vouredbyaing on the shore, suddenly noticed a crocodile
approaching the bathers. Instantly they both en-
deavoured to gain the shore by swimming, which Maniumku,
the second of Musa's companions, succeeded in doing, but before
Mi^Sa could reach the land the crocodile had overtaken him,
and seized the unfortunate man by the back of the neck ;
and, before he could utter a cry, both disappeared together
beneath the surface of the water.
We were just sitting at dessert after our dinner, when Hassani
and Maniumku entered, howling lamentably, with the tidings,
" Musa has been devoured by a crocodile ! " I sprang from my
seat, put on my helmet, and shouldered my gun, hoping at
least to be in time to execute vengeance upon the crocodile ;
Ferocity of but the Creature had swum with its prey to one of the
toria^"" small islands in the creek, and was no more to be
crocodiles, gggjj J igamt from the Fathers that the crocodiles
of Lake Victoria are particularly dangerous. They overturn
small fishing boats to seize the crews, and sometimes even attack
people standing on the shore. I was told that many of the
MUSA'S FATE;
TTEMPTED LIOX IfUNT.
491
Wasukuma lose their lives in this wa)'. I reoretted poor Musa
much, and forbade my men to bathe any nKjre ; liut such a
prohibition was now scarcely necessary.
As the news from Nyauesi appeared somewhat gra\e, I
betook myself thither on April 27th, to call on Herr von
Tiedemann. He was afraid, on the afternoon of that day, that
he was suffering from inflammati(jn of the liver ; a supposition
which fortunately proved to be erroneous.
;.>^-'v-ii[w^
uMBiS^
The Chief I'ortee Musa Killed by a Crocodile.
I remained at Nj^agesi on the 28th and 29tli, where we one
afternoon went out for a general lion hunt, in which Herr \ on
Tiedemann was also able to take part. Every ^^ift^'i'-^n attempt
noon a lion had carried away a sheep from the flock at uon
. . hunting.
belonging to the Mission. \ve took uj) our jjosition
upon a height in the vicinity of the flock, to lie in wait for
him ; but the impudent fellow must have scented us, for that
afternoon he carried off a sheep from another flock that wa^
grazing just behind us. We heard him roaring quite close to
492 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
US, when my servant Mabruk disturbed him, but we could not
get within range of him.
I returned to Ukumbi on April 30th, with my mind relieved
concerning Herr von Tiedemann's health. We sat up late into
the night, as I had taken a fancy to watch for the Walpurgis
The "Wai- hour.* Unable to sleep any longer in a room, on that
W^\ night I once again set up my tent in the yard of the
watch. Mission station, and retired to it at midnight.
But this long watch was destined to have its consequences.
On May 1st, after breakfast, I was suddenly seized with a slight
shivering fit, and at once felt a longing ,to go to bed. An hour
afterwards I was lying in a high fever, and it proved to be the
real marsh fever, or malaria, by which I was attacked. The
peculiarity of this illness is, that it acts, in the first place, on
the nervous system, and paralyses the will. The patient suffers
greatly from depression and from all kinds of distressing
hallucinations. He is either shivering with cold, or lies
Dr. Peters °
attacked by groaning, half dead, with burning heat. In this state
^^^^^' he gets to think he will not live through the day. I
was quite convinced I should die, and I can say that there was
something exceedingly consoling to me in the thought that after
all my anxieties and struggles I should lie at rest at last on the
shores of Lake Victoria.
But Providence had decreed it otherwise. Strong doses of
tartar emetic relieved the system, and then Pere Hautecceur, who
The Doctor's had taken my case in hand, prescribed regular doses of
recovery, quinine, which at last subdued the fever, after I had
.had three days of delirium. But what havoc this attack had
made of my bodily frame ! Only three days before I was brisk
and strong as in Europe ; now I had become emaciated and
weak to such a degree that I could hardly stand up to crawl the
twenty paces that divided the Mission house from my tent.
I mention this to show what the malarious fever is on Lake
Victoria.
* The night between April 30th and May 1st (in some calendars the
vigil of St. Walpurgis or Walburga) had already in pagan times been a great
festival. See the " Walpurgis-Nacht " in Goethe's Faust. — Tr.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE FINAL MARCH. 493
Whilst I was prostrated with fever, the Brother of the Mission
had died, and had been buried. On Maj' 4th m)" attack of fever
had been overcome, and on the 5th I could once more seat
myself in my arm-chair. Meanwhile the report con- Herr von
cerning Herr von Tiedemann was a disquieting one. ^ann's
He, too, was pursued by hallucinations. One night he in^ieBB.
had alarmed the whole Mission station by firing shots from his
revolver at some imaginary foes. Such were the tidings Pere
Guyaut brought to Ukumbi on May 6th.
Only one course was left for me to take. I must give up
waiting any longer for Monseigneur Livinhac, of whom we had
not yet heard anything. If we remained in this region of fever,
the attacks would infalliblj' recur, and in the end prove
fatal to us. Away, therefore, from Ukumbi, however to make a
stiEirt
weak we might feel ourselves, — away to other regions !
Change of climate alone could cure us.
On May 6th I wrote to Herr von Tiedemann that on the
8th we should leave for the coast. On the 7th he arrived at
Ukumbi, where I had meanwhile made every preparation for
our departure.
I had engaged twelve new porters, and had bought from the
Mission sufficient cloth stuffs to supply the column with main-
tenance until we should reach the coast. Besides that, stores for
I had laid in some provisions for our personal use, from ^^^ ™*"^-
stores which Dr. Hans Meier had sent to the Lake through
Mr. Stokes's instrumentality. I took with me eleven bottles of
cognac and a few boxes of biscuits. I had also procured two
loads of rice.
By the evening of May 7th, we were so far recovered as to
be able to take our places at the general supper-table in the
Mission. I shook off the effects of the fever with extraordinary
rapidity, and on the morning of May 8th was already quite on
my legs again. Heavy showers of rain made us defer our depar-
ture until eleven o'clock. We were still sitting in the verandah
in front of my room, engaged in earnest conversation with
Monseigneur Hirth, when the sky cleared. Then I gave the
order to sound the trumpet for the start. A loud burst of
494 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
cheering from all our men proved to me how they, too, had been
longino; for the hour of departure. The drum was beaten.
TI16 st&>rt 00 -I
from Accompanied by Monseigneur Hirth and Monseigneur
Tjkumiji. jjauteccEur, I placed myself at the head of the column.
We left the courtyard of the Mission station, turned to the right,
and then our way led over the brow of the heights that shut in
the Mission at the back, in a southerly direction, parallel with
the creek of the Victoria Lake.
The march on that day was somewhat toilsome, but we kept
up our courage by th-e consciousness of being on the road. We
March to had repeatedly to cross swampy lakes and pools, so that
Ndinga. j^ ^g^g nearly six o'clock before we reached Ndinga, our
camping-place for that day. A great popular festival was in
progress at Ndinga. Dancing and singing groups passed con-
tinually across the open space by the village, on which I had
given orders to pitch the tents, until I had to forbid their
noise.
It was a delicious feeling, after the rest of the previous weeks,
to feel oneself once more making way ; and in joyous mood we sat
down that evening together in my tent, the first occasion on
which we had done so for a long time. Unhappily our enjoy-
ment was disturbed after supper, for Herr von Tiedemann had
a fresh attack of fever, which compelled him immediately to
retire to bed. The next morning early we pursued our journey,
A pleasant P^^* Well-kept, clean villages, and through a fertile
day's march. a,nd highly-cultivated country. The contrast between
travelling through this sphere of German interests and through
the desert steppes in the north made itself felt in a striking
manner. I was in the habit of saying that we danced on our
way, from the lake to the coast, like ballet girls. Our com-
missariat was accurately regulated ; we had guides to lead us
every day who knew the capabilities of the country with regard
to the water supply, and I had really no further trouble, except-
inteuigent ^^^ *^^* °^ actual marching. Moreover, at Ukumbi,
wang-wana three Wangwana, who were in the service of Mr. Stokes,
attached themselves to our party, under the direction
of Salim and Pangani. These men knew the country and the
?
THE WASUKUJIA AND THEIR COUNTRY. 495
people well, and I was able, from that time, to make use of
them in regulating my relations with the natives. Besides
this, on the second day of our march one hundred Wasukuma
joined my expedition, in order to travel to the coast under its
protection. These people had herds of cattle with them, which
they intended to sell at Bagamoyo.
The Wasukuma are a people fond of travel, and in conse-
quence of the great wealth of the land in cattle, which enables
them to procure from the coast the coveted cotton goods, ProbaWefu-
the traffic between this country and the places on the anot^f the
coast will, the next few years, be increased beyond all Wasukuma.
calculation, the more so if, by the establishment of a steamer
on Lake Victoria, the activity of the trade between the northern
and southern shores is promoted, which will enable the Waganda
also to open up trade directly with the coast.
After heavy rains, the country of Usukuma has very much
the appearance of the marshy plains of Lower Germany and
Holland. It is as flat as a trencher, completely verdant, and
only remarkable for the conical rocks already described.
Among these, the eye rests upon mighty herds of cattle, to be
counted by many thousands of head, reminding us of the wealth
of the Massais in this particular. From these numerous cattle
we derived a great advantage, as we could command a land of
large supplies of milk, which, especially in the form of pi^''*?'
curds and whey, furnished a refreshing article of food. I was
now accustomed, throughout the whole march, to carry a great
gourd containing buttermilk, a beverage equally nourishing
and refreshing, which soon restored my bodily strength, that
had been greatly diminished by the fever.
During the first days of our march, our one inconvenience
arose from the marshy state of the ground. Fate appeared un-
willing to spare our expedition any of the difficulties of African
travel. In the north we had been obliged to struggle on amid
dry primeval forests and bush steppes ; now we became Difficult
acquainted with the far greater disagreeables of stamp- ^^^^ ^°^'
ing along for hours through water or mud, risking at every step
the loss of our boots, as we often sank up to our knees in the
496 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
morass, while ever^y day brought with it the danger of a renewed
attack of marsh fever ; for these swamps are the most prolific
hotbeds of malaria.
On May 9th we encamped in the precincts of a very rich
village called Kabila, which is surrounded by good cultivation,
and especially noted for its enormous herds of cattle. A
Encamp- r j . p niT
mentat heavy downpour overtook us in the afternoon, fiUmg
us with gloomy forebodings with regard to the march
for the following day.
On that day, after crossing a stream, we were to reach the
country of Nera proper, where we should come upon Stanley's
route. "NVe left Kabila early, and soon found ourselves in a
horrible quagmire, through which we could manage to crawl
with dragging footsteps, in the slowest of time. We contrived
to reach the ford of a tributary that emptied itself into Lake
stopped by Victoria, but every attempt to cross it was fruitless.
a river. rpj^g current was violent, and the water rose higher than
the men's heads. What was to be done ? The guides proposed
that we should return to Kabila. This I declined to do. As I
had heard that this river was formed by the junction of two
The two streams higher up, I decided to try whether it would
braneiies. jjq^ ^g possible to cross these separately, one after the
other. So we went pounding slowly along towards the east, and
succeeded in finding, in the stream that flowed from the north-
east, a broad part, where the water only came up to the men's
chests, and where we at last managed to cross. Forward now
for the southern branch ! But every effort to find a fording-
place here was unavailing ; and as the sun had already passed the
zenith, I had to make up my mind, willingly or unwillingly, to
look out for a spot in the swampy plain where it would
ment by be possible to pitch our camp. Such a spot was found
below one of the stony hills characteristic of Usukuma,
just to the north of the place in the river near which we then
were, and thither I led our whole caravan. " The water here
will have run off by to-morrow morning," said one of our
Ukumbi guides, " unless it comes on to rain again."
An alteration had been made in the manner of living in our
ORDER OF THE DAY'S MARCH. 497
expedition, inasmuch as I had brought with me a packet of wax
lights from Ukumbi, and we could accordingly make ourselves
comfortable in the evening in our tents. One candle had
certainly to last us for four evenings ; but, at any rate, it gave
us two hours' light every evening ; and as Herr von Tiedemann
generally lay down of an evening, I could devote myself to
reading during the hours after supper, whilst enjoying my pipe.
This fact, more than anything else, took from our mode of
living the makeshift or journeyman workman-like appearance
that had characterised our march into the country.
The next morning we returned to the river, and behold ! the
guide had been right ; the waters had so far subsided that we
were able to overcome this troublesome obstacle, and Fording
though we had an hour's wading through the mud for ^"^^ stream,
it, we reached the land of Nera, and, in fact, came to a wealthy
village in the same.
Before leaving Ukumbi, I had ordered two donkeys to be in
waiting here, intending thus to secure an agreeable variety in
our method of progress for Herr von Tiedemann and myself.
These donkeys were driven up in the afternoon, and although
they had not been broken in, and required careful
watching, especially at the beginning, as they had a useful
tendency to run away at any moment into the thorny °^ *^°'
brushwood, they nevertheless proved exceedingly useful to us
on the march as far as Mpuapua. The following was now my
method of travelling. In the morning at 5.30 the first signal
to rise was given, after I had washed and dressed myself. The
men had at once to go to their loads, and especially to the tents,
which were struck in a moment. Two minutes later the second
trumpet sounded, whilst we, generally standing about the
kitchen, consumed some hot coffee, porridge, and, since our
departure from Ukumbi, a few biscuits, so long as they lasted.
Some two minutes more and the third signal was given, a mom-
the drums beat, and we started on our journey, pns's march.
marching in front with the guides and our flag, whilst my
column quickly fell into order behind me. I usually marched
on for two hours, then, at about eight o'clock, the donkey was
32
498 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
brought, and I rode on it for about another hour. From nine
to eleven I marched again on foot, and then made a halt of a
quarter of an hour for breakfast. This meal consisted regularly
of cold meat, with usually the addition of porridge. Thereupon
we went on again till noon, or past noon, according to the
distance of our place of encampment. If it was necessary to
march until the afternoon, I made a halt between twelve and
one o'clock, and, as a rule, I had cocoa or tea made for Herr
von Tiedemann and myself ; but, on these occasions, I allowed
no previous halt. The last stage of the journey I generally rode
on the donkey.
In this way we covered from nine to eighteen miles a day.
The average on our return journey was daily about twelve
miles. Here it was, in Nera, that Salim and his companions
joined us, and under their guidance we, on the following morn-
ing, pursued our way southwards, further into the land. Here
The Nera in Nera Stanley had been compelled to fight, six
country, j^gnths previously. I consider that Stanley, in the
accounts of his travels, draws far too threatening a picture of
his position in Nera. The people of this country have always
had a tendency to be insolent in their behaviour to all caravans ;
but when, like Stanley, a man has the command of a thousand
men and a Maxim gun, this insolence is no more than that of
a fly annoying an elephant. In all these countries there pre-
vails what I may call the vice of demanding tribute from
, , travellers, an evil custom, which is all the more to be
Payment of ' p • i
tribute a Condemned as the native chiefs do nothing whatever,
either in the way of maintaining the roads or of
rendering them safe. Nevertheless, all travellers, Mr. Stanley
at their head, have consented to pay this tribute. I always
refused on principle to do so, and more decidedly than ever on
our return journey, because we were now marching in German
territory, and it would have been reversing the natural order of
things for the masters of the country to pay tribute to their
subjects. This proceeding of mine one day led to a slight
skirmish with the most southern inhabitants of the land, the
Wasekke. These people employ the tactics, if I may so call
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE WASEKKE.
499
them, of shrieking and howling at caravans, in order to intimi-
date them. As I learned from my servant Selek, a
, ■ /-I • iflCtlCB 01
native of the country, it is by no means the fashion the
with them to kill people, but they only do this as a
pretence, and generally cause the bearers to drop their loads,
Animal Life in the Deseet.
which then become the welcome
prey of the natives. "When they
Endeavoured thus to intimidate our
expedition, they certainly tried it on
with the wrong people. We fired in
among them, and four of them had
to pay for their folly with their lives.
I laid three of them low, and Herr
von Tiedemann one. In two minutes
the whole body of them had disap-
peared. I suppose that to Stanley's
fancy the dangers of such a position
were more vivid than to my brain of Lower Saxony, but this
kind of description of travels has the disadvantage of awaken-
ing in those who come after a timid frame of mind, which
causes them to sixa way to the unjustifiable and The African
. ,r • A ' character.
impudent demands of the natives more than is advis-
able in the interests of the opening out of these countries.
"•M
500 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
Truth to say, from a warlike point of view, the Africans are not
greatl}' to be feared, least of all the Bantu tribes in the territory
of the German Protectorate and the rascally Wangwana on the
coast. The only people who may inspire any fear in this
respect are the Massais of the tablelands.
From May 12th onward I found myself upon the route
which Stanley and Emin Pasha had taken. On the 13th we
crossed the Wami, one of the tributaries of Lake Victoria, at
Crossing Muamara, and on the 14th we reached the country
the Wami. ^f Sekke, where we had to fight a little in the manner
above described on the next morning. In entering Sekke we
had reached the last border country of Usukuma, and we entered
Unjamwesi territory after a four hours' march through a bush
region wonderfully rich in game animals, amongst which I
was especially struck by the numbers of giraffes and zebras.
The Wasekke pursued us for a short distance into the primeval
forest, but had carefully kept beyond the range of our
of the guns. At length they gave up the vain pursuit, and,
as in former days, we contmued our way alone and
unaccosted through the wilds. At one o'clock we reached the
first Unjamwesi kraal, Sijanga, where we were received by
the inhabitants with great heartiness.
In this country Mr. Stokes, formerly a member of the
English Mission at Usumbiko, carries on his business. He has
his principal settlement at Usongo, frbm which place
business he chiefly trades to the Victoria Nyanza. I have
^" ^' already mentioned that I met his agents in Uganda
and in the west of the lake, where they were purchasing ivory.
Stokes, like a shrewd Irishman, has hit upon just the right
thing in pushing the buying-up trade in the interior, which is,
indeed, the one branch in which money is still to be made.
There is no room left for large profits in the purchasing trade
on the coast, where the European has to compete with the
Indians, and where the prices depend entirely upon the markets
of Europe. For this reason, from the very beginning, I advo-
cated the view that the German East African Company should
establish the centre of its commercial undertakings in the
niPORTANT ROUTES FOR CARAVAN TRADE. 501
interior, where ivory has still no fixed rate of sale, so that
practically its price on the coast is regulated only by the
expenses of transport. This course the Company has in these
last days adopted, and it is to be expected that it will
1 i_ • 1 •■111 Ideas of
not only be a gainer, but that it will also contribute trade w.
in a much greater degree to the opening lip and ™°"
civilising the interior of Africa, than if it had confined itself to
erecting factories at different places on the coast. The British
East African Company, too, naturally started with this idea
from the beginning. The first thing that William Mackinnon
did was to erect English stations along the course of the Tana
upward, at Miansini on the Naiwascha Lake, and at Kwasundu
on the Victoria Nyanza. Through Mr. Stokes's establishment,
which is situated about four or five days' journey from Tabor a,
Usongo has become, in reality, the second commercial and
political centre of Unjamwesi, and, as such, stands in a certain
contrast to Tabora.
The result of all this has been that the traffic from Lake
Victoria to the coast has become accustomed to make the
circuit over Usongo on the "so-called Ndjia Stokisi. ^^^^ ^^^^^^
As Stokes had to keep up caravan communications of caravan
trade
from Usongo to Lake Victoria, and, on the other hand,
sent his wares from Usongo to the coast, other caravans also
followed this same route, so, amongst others, Stanley and his
expedition. A glance at the map, however, will show that this
route is a very circuitous one. Many a morning I experienced
a certain feeling of annoyance at the thought that we were
moving in a south-south-westerly direction, instead of proceed-
ing towards the south-east, where lay the goal of our march.
Monseigneur Livinhac had, already in Uganda, sug- q^^^^^^^ ^p
gested to me the idea whether, in the interests of the ^^^^llf^^^^
trade between the coast and Lake Victoria, I should
not strive to open up a direct way from Ukumbi, or even from
Speke's Gulf to Bagamoyo. I decided to act upon this sugges-
tion, at least in part, and already in Sijanga made up my mind
not to take the circuitous route through Unjamwesi, but to make
my way straight towards Ugogo, and thus to cross the Wembaere
50'2 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
Steppe in a diagonal line. Salim tried, indeed, to dissuade me
from this intention by calling my attention to the dangers to
be encountered at the hands of the Massais, which had been the
cause of Stanley's taking the circuitous route through Unjamwesi.
I replied: "We know the Massais, and are not afraid of them.
Let those who fear the Massais march to Ugogo through
Unjamwesi. I shall avail myself of the nearest road thither,
and must, therefore, procure guides through the Wembaere
steppe."
Unfortunately I was unable immediately to carry out this
intention. At Sijanga I had pitched my tent in the middle
of the village. In the afternoon, on stepping forth
Beturn of . _ . -^ i ^i n i
theukum- from my tent into the open air, i was startled by a
bi fever, ^j^gj^^ attack of giddiness. I went back immediately,
sat down in my chair, and took a strong dose of quinine. In
spite of this, my Ukumbi fever returned in the night, just one
fortnight after the first attack. In consequence, I was under
the necessity of making only short marches during the next
few days, pitching our camp only about five miles further south
each day. On the 16th we encamped at Lindilindi, on the
1 7th at Sai, and it was not till May 1 8th that, when my fever
had altogether subsided, I was able to push forward in a long
day's march, in an easterly direction, to Busiba.
Busiba is the furthest Bantu settlement in the Massai wilder-
ness. Here reigns that Sultan Keletesa whom I had seen in
Bagamoyo a year previously. The Wasiba people have
ment of Constantly to defend themselves against the rapacious
Massai tribes. A warlike spirit has, in consequence,
been developed among them.
I was conducted to Sultan Keletesa by a guide who had just
returned from the coast. He was the very ideal of an Usukuma
A dandy of dandy. The young gentleman sported European trousers
Usukuma. ^nd a European shirt ; his head, that he waved in an
impressive way, was protected by a European tropical helmet
from the rays of the sun, so dangerous to finely-organised brains.
But this was not enough for our friend. As he had seen it done
in Bagamoyo, he used, when the sun mounted higher, towards
nrii DAXDY I'srKr.UA GriDE.
503
eight o'clock, to put up an umbrella ; and for the protection of
his delicate hands he would draw on a pair of woollen gloves,
No. 13. He looked down with an eye of pity upon our dilapi-
dated condition, and received with dignified gravity the well-
deserved homage offered by his compatriots, especially by
those of the lemale sex.
Keletesa had no sooner
heard of my arrival, than
he hoisted in his capital the
German flag he had brought
from Baijamoyo, ^ , . ,
^ • ' Keletesa s
and iireseutly he cordial
behaviour.
appeared in person
to bid us a hearty welcome.
He also showed me a letter
from Bagamoyo, signed liy
Captain Richelmann, — the
first (ierman document I
had set eyes on for a whole
year.
I pitched my tent under
the shade of a widespreading
tree, and mj^ people quartered
themselves in the houses of
the Wasiba, which were hos-
pitably placed at our dis-
posal. Mirth and dancing
were the order of the day
in the kraals, and Keletesa
held two long conferences
with me. I questioned him as follows : —
" When you go from here to Bagamoyo which road do you
generally take ? " Particulars
" I go throuiih the Wembaere steppe in seven for the
days to Usure, and then from Usure to Muhalala
and Ugogo, likewise in seven days. '
"Is water to be found for a caravan in the Wembaere steppe ?"
An Usukujia Dakdy.
.304 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
" Plenty of water is to be found there now. When the river
beds are dry you have only to dig in the sand, and you will find
water below."
" Will you give me guides to take me through the steppe ? "
" I cannot provide you with guides, as they could not return
alone. The road leads all the way close along the Massai
country, and you must keep a good watch that they do not
attack your expedition. If you want guides, some may accom-
pany you as far as Mpuapua, and wait there till your expedition
returns here ; but you cannot miss the way if you always follow
the traces left by me and my people. Each day you will also
find a camping-place I have used, where your people may sleep.
There is only one way through the Wembaere steppe."
" Then I shall find water each day ? "
" Every day much water," he replied ; " but you ought to
stay here a few days, and provide yourself with food, for you will
find nothing to eat in the desert."
" Ah, I need not stay here some days for that purpose," I
answered. " My people have sufficient poscho to last them as
far as Mpuapua."
I then summoned Musehe, the head man of the porters, and
Hussein, and ordered them to tell the people that each man must
buy food for himself for seven days, as we were going to cross
the Wembaere steppe.
We started early on the following morning. At first our way
led us past a few settlements. To the left the white steppe lay
, . . stretched out in immeasurable distance before us in the
A region of
thicket and clear Sunlight. When we had left the last settlement of
the Wasiba behind us, we entered a remarkably barren
country, a grey and dingy region of thickets, with dried-up trees
everywhere. At each step we took a sandy dust cloud whirled up,
enveloping the whole column. Thus we toiled along in a south-
easterly direction until past noon. Suddenly a river came in
The river view. " That is the river Sanguke," said Salim ; " it
sanguke. flg^g ^q ^]^g Manouga, by which we shall sleep to-
morrow."
As we had not had a rest the whole morning, I decided to
THE WE2IBAERE REGION ;— RICH IN GAME. 505
make a short halt here, and then to go on in the afternoon to
Keletesa's first camping-place.
A march of this kind through barren steppes has a depress-
ing effect on the mind ; and it was in a somewhat mournful
mood that I threw myself down on the river's bank, to await
the arrival of my colu
Herr von Tiedemann had remained a long way behind.
When he came up he informed me, very sorrowfully, that he was
once more suffering from dysentery, and that it would Herr von
be impossible for him to march further that day. So I "^l^-^ m.
set myself to the task of seeking for a camping-ground "^^^s-
in the neighbourhood. This was difficult enough, as the
ground near the water was slimy, and manifestly a fever trap,
whilst stiff and thorny brushwood cut us off from the steppe.
At last, about twenty yards northward from the watercourse,
I found a spot that was somewhat more open, and had it cleared
by the axe. The Sanguke and the Manonga already belong to
the water feeders of the Wembaere. Day by day we crossing the
now encamped near some tributary of this river, and 'Wembaere.
crossed the river itself a few days later. I was unable to dis-
cover whither it flowed. Salim declared that it belonged, after
all, to the Kufidschi system ; a theory which, however, I con-
sider entirely unwarranted. It appears to find its way north-
eastward into the Wembaere steppe, and perhaps forms the
upper course of one of the tributaries of Lake Victoria, flowing
into Speke's Bay.
In this 'steppe we passed a sufficiently melancholy afternoon.
By making use of his bedstead, I had a sort of litter constructed
for Herr von Tiedemann, on which he could be carried on our
marches by a few Wasukuma porters. For any one suffering
from dysentery, marching should by all means be avoided.
Thus we pursued our journey next day in a south-easterly
direction. The aspect of the country underwent, in so far, a
favourable change, that the foliage had a somewhat ^ ^^^^^
fresher appearance, and tracks of game animals were rfgame
visible here and there. Many ostriches, in particular,
showed themselves in the desert, but none came within range
506 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
of our guns. The porters Avho were carrying Herr von Tiede-
mann remained far behind, so that I began to feel anxious on
his account, and sent back men to look after him. However,
about an hour after m_y arrival at the camp at Manonga, which
I reached at two o'clock, Herr von Tiedemann came in. He
Travelling- Complained that the stretcher, which exposed him to
m a litter, ^j^g burning sun and to the risk of being thrown down
at any moment, had rendered the march altogether intolerable
to him. Presumably it was to the heat of the sun that we had
to ascribe an alarming attack of palpitation of the heart by
which Herr von Tiedemann was seized that afternoon, which
filled me with dismal apprehension. But on the following
morning he felt much better, and was once more able to
march.
On our horizon a sharply-defined mountain land now showed
itself, which Salim, in reply to my inquiry, designated as Iramba.
„ ^ Towards the left the eye wandered over a barren tract
The true -^
Wembaere of desert land, studded here and there with bush — the
real Wembaere steppe, which leads into the land of the
Massais. At intervals rose a small group of high trees, under
whose shade a fresher flora was able to develop itself. Here
great herds of giraffes and zebras were grazing, but I was never
able to knock over one of them. Our march now always lasted
until after midday, as we were compelled, on account of the
necessity for water, to keep scrupulously to Keletesa's camping-
March places. My people generally found there the small
through the straw huts of the ^yasiba, in which they established
wilderness, , , V. i-
themselves, and we could always rely upon finding water
in the vicinity. On the whole, this renewed march through the
wilderness had great attractions for me after the long stay in a
civilised country on the shores of Lake Victoria. The recollec-
tion of my forward march along the upper course of the Tana
arose in my mind, and my heart could once more hold quiet
communion with itself.
Perhaps an expedition of this kind through Africa offers
more opportunities than are found elsewhere for thought and
quiet reflection. A man is alone almost the whole day, the din
THE END OF A LONG 2IARCH. 507
and turmoil of the world are far off, and only the great impres-
sions of pure and unsophisticated nature work upon the fancy.
Sedately, and free from the feverish strife of Europe, Thoughts
existence flows onwards, and the mind is necessarily goiit^je ^f
raised to the contemplation of the great and the eternal, 'i^tii'^e-
Thus life here gains in mental depth and purity of aspiration,
and in the midst of European ciAdlisation the fact of heing able
to look back upon these weeks lends to this memory something
of the longing desire for the purity and innocence of Paradise.
In the throes of the grasping strife and struggles of civilisation
the mind longs for the grand impressions and feelings of the
wilderness, where the Creator Himself appears to come nearer to
us in His works, and eternity seems to speak to us in its own
mighty language.
May 23rd saw the end of our march through the steppe.
This day was one of the most disagreeable I experienced
throughout our entire expedition. In the morning we pro-
ceeded in a southerly direction, always keeping in view the
abrupt blue slope of the Iramba plateau, illumined by the clear
morning sunlight. Suddenly a surface of a bright green colour
appeared before us, which I was inclined to take for a ^ ^^^^^
beautiful meadow. But on this occasion I fared like and dismal
/-i 1 •!-> 1 J? swamp.
the grenadiers of Frederick the Great at the mttie oi
Prague. I was soon convinced that the supposed meadow was
nothing but an infernal swamp. At first I tried to march
round it, but in half an hour's time I found that it stretched
out before us in apparently endless width, and that we must of
necessity wade through it. So now for it. From half-past
nine in the morning until past midday we waded, always up
to the hips, sometimes to the waist, in water, through rushy
ground and clinging slime. From tune to time I was obliged
to call some of my men, as my boots were actually sticking in
the slime. With enormous exertion we at last reached an
elevated place in the middle of the swamp, where we were able
to rest for a short period. Then the business began a haven of
again, until at last the cause of this marsh became ''^'*-
apparent ; it arose from the swelling of the Wembaere river,
o08 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
which had overflowed its banks, and which, as a finish, we had
to cross in water up to our chests. We all recollected the fate
of Musa, and this remembrance, together with the thought that
some hungry crocodile might seize the fine opportunity of
securing a substantial breakfast, naturally did not contribute
to make the wading more agreeable. Exhausted and wet
through, we at length climbed out of the swamp on to higher
land, where we quickly changed our clothing, so as to avoid
catching a deadly fever in addition to all the rest. We now
saw before us grazing herds, with their herdsmen, but these
latter scampered off at the top of their speed when I attempted
to open a conversation with them.
In a state of extreme exhaustion, our column halted at half-
past one o'clock, under the shadow of some trees, to get a hasty
Provision- ^^^^ ' ^^^ we had to march until past three before
ing the were ached Keletesa's encampment. I decided to rest
here for a day, to collect a fresh stock of provisions
ibr the column for the march across the steppe between Iramba
and Ugogo that lay before us. That very afternoon I sent to
Sultan Kilioma, requesting him to be kind enough to come
to me, to enter into negotiations respecting our relations to
each other. I asked him not to forget the tribute due to me ;
I should require a few donkeys and some sheep. It appeared
The people that the people of Iramba are of the same race as the
of Iramba. ^^agogo, a mixture of Bantu and Massai blood. They
were said to be formidable people, who attack passing caravans,
to force them to pay a tribute. Salim told me, however, that
the people of northern Iramba were on friendly terms with the
Wasiba under Keletesa.
On the afternoon of the 24th the Sultan appeared with
a large retinue, amongst whom my attention was especially
attracted by a number of young girls, whose whole attire con-
sisted of short skirts made of beads, that were very becoming.
I laid before the Sultan the reasons that had induced me to send
for him.
" I know very well that you dwell here, close to the Massais,
who come to burn your villages, murder your people, and carry
INTERVIEW WITH SULTAN KILIOMA. 509
oflf your cattle. Now, I am the enemy of the Massais, against
whom we have repeatedly fought, and all enemies of the
Massais are my friends. The nearest way from the .,,
11111 Address to
Nyanza to the coast leads through your territory, and I suitan
conclude that in the future many Germans' will pass ^ ^°^^'
through it. For this reason I will give you our flag, which will
perhaps frighten away these Massais. But, ahove all, my
brothers, when they travel through your country, will know at
once you are our friend. You will bring them food, and they
will then give you presents, and if they want to have guides
you will furnish them with guides to Busiba. Are you ready to
enter into such friendship with me ? "
" I am very willing to do so. The Massais came here only
half a year ago and drove away my herds of oxen, and I know
that they will come again as soon as they see that my g^j^^^
herds have grown large once more. Therefore I shall KiUoma's
reply
be glad if the Germans pass frequently through my
territory, and I pray you give me your flag, and then I will be
the servant of the Germans."
" Very good. Here is our flag for you, which my soldiers
shall hoist for you to-day, and here I give you your letter. But
understand well, that I also now demand of you that you shall
give your support to every expedition under the German flag.
So soon as you have had the German flag given you you are of
necessity bound to give them whatever they require of you,
otherwise we shall make war upon you and destroy you all.
But if you are faithful and true to us, my brothers, who will
perhaps come, will, on their part, always be willing to make
you presents."
After an hour's interview the Sultan left me, and I sent a
few Somalis with him, who hoisted the black, white, and red
flag on a lofty position. This country is of importance Hoisting
f* • ^ • the flae*
for caravan traffic, chiefly on account of its lying ^■
between two steppes, and thus from its position it necessarily
becomes a point of support for the journey.
On May 25th we pursued our march southwards, still keep-
ing the Iramba mountains on our left. I noticed that in the
510 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
distance the mountain chain was leyelled down, and I decided to
cross its most southern spur. Behind it we came upon
ment of the productive settlement of Usure, where we were able
to provide ourselves with food for the desert march to
Uweri-weri. The plateau of Iramba is covered with handsome
forests, in the midst of which the people have formed their
plantations. In north Iramba we had been told that we should
have to fight with the people in the south ; therefore on that
da)' I accomplished the march with all the vigilance I had
formerly used in the Massai country. But the Wairamba had
PeaoeaWe evidently no desire to measure themselves with us. In
thewa*-"^ the forest, through which our road lay, we met with
iramba. several wood-cutters, who willingly gave us information,
when we asked them, regarding our route. A hostile disposition
was nowhere noticeable, and soon we left all trace of this settle-
ment behind us, and were once more surrounded by the vast
and barren bush steppe. Here we lost the track of Keletesa's
caravan, and had to seek our way for ourselves. About noon,
however, we found water, and Salim's Wangwana succeeded in
finding Keletesa's track again, so that we managed to reach his
encampment, in a sort of moor-like water hollow, towards four
o'clock.
The night before I had had the ill-fortune to be found out in
my bed by a centipede, which stung me in the finger, so that
,. ^ for the next few days my arm was painfully inflamed
A centipede ./ ./ r j
and a and almost paralysed. The following night, when we
^ ^^*' had gone to bed at nine o'clock, I had a second un-
pleasant surprise. My servant had placed my washing basin,
which consisted of a waterproof bag hanging in a three-footed
stand, close to my bed, ready for the morning's use. During
the night, as usual, the wind rose slightly, and by moving the
tent backwards and forwards it caused the basin to overturn,
and to pour its whole contents over my blanket and myself. I
called my servant, but could not make up my mind to get up,
and so remained lying in my wet blankets. The consequence
was, that all the next day I experienced the uncomfortable
sensations of coming fever.
ON THE IRA MB A PLATEAU. 511
Duriug this day we continued the course of the expedition
towards the southern incline of the Iramha plateau. The ground
became more and more undulating, and, in consequence Theiramba
of the moisture, was productive of a richer vegetation, plateau-
Mighty ferns, like those we had seen along the Tana, towered
under the shadow of primeval forest trees, and a growth of fresh
grass appeared in the beds of rivers now dried up. From ten
o'clock we were continually on the ascent, until, between eleven
and twelve, a very steep and difficult mountain barrier had to
be scaled. I reached the summit and halted, to await the arrival
of my column, that had fallen behind. "We partook of some
breakfast, and pursued our way along the plateau till towards
three in the afternoon. Then the forest opened, and suddenly
we saw a field of maize just in front of us. Half an hour's
march brought us through the corn fields, and then, upon a hill
straight before us, rose a fortified place, with ramparts of clay,
strongly reminding me of Kabaras and Kwa Tindi.
In these countries it is customary for an approaching
caravan to announce its friendly intentions by beat of drum.
This I was not aware of, and so it came to pass that the
inhabitants began swarming about like bees, especially among the
USitilVGS
when they saw the German flag. They were afraid we
were going to attack and plunder the place. By means of Salim
I soon established friendly relations with them, and learnt that
we were now in Makongo, in the vicinity of Usure. I had the
tents pitched under a huge tree on the left side of the ramparts,
and, at the request of the elders, I forbade my people to encamp
within the walls of the town. It might otherwise soon come to
a quarrel, the chiefs thought.
My efforts to enter into friendly relations with the Sultan
of the place himself were certainly unavailing. His relatives
came presently, begging me to excuse him, saying that ^ ^^j^_
he could not possibly appear, being just then so mduigent
exceedingly drunk. They were prepared to accept my
suggestion to pour water upon him, so that perhaps he might
be able to appear in the evening. On my sending in the even-
ing to request that the Sultan might now be brought to me, I
512 XE]V LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
was informed that the application of water had had no effect, and
that he was still drunk, but that he would come to me at five
o'clock the next morning. At that hour, however, the state of
intoxication continued as strongly as ever. They tried to bring
him to me, but he staggered and tumbled down at the gate. As
a proof of their friendly intentions, his brother presented me
with two oxen for slaughtering, with which I had to console
myself for the unsuccessful attempt at concluding friendship.
On leaving Makongo we proceeded in a south-easterly direc-
tion, leaving the southern incline of the Iramba plateau behind,
to the north of us. We had soon left the plantations, and were
once more out in the bush forest.
That morning I had the misfortune that my donkey ran
away Avith me, without any apparent reason, into the midst of
Amischance *^® thorny thicket, where my left hand was mercilessly
through my lacerated. From that time I adopted the plan Herr
°" ^^' von Tiedemann had always followed, namely, that of
having my untrained donkey soberly led by a Somali ; which
method, although it did not present a very imposing appearance,
was at least a comfortable and practical proceeding.
At eleven o'clock the forest once more opened before us, and
we saw more plantations, which were, indeed, the fields of the
sultanate of Usure. But I passed by the first villages without
halting, as I wished to press on to the capital, where a Sultana
wields the sceptre. We did not reach this place — which is also
The un- s^irrounded with strong walls — until after one o'clock,
ladylike To our sorrow we were told, immediately on our arrival,
that the Sultana very much regretted that she could
not receive us, but that she and all her court were very drunk.
It was just harvest time, when, as I might easily see, the corn-
cultivating tribes of Africa are more or less drunk every day.
The movement that hopes, by preventing the importation of
Native spirits, to put an end to the consumption of alcohol in
and foreign Africa, is in eiTor ; for this reason, that the natives
alcohol. 1 p 1 T p
have lor thousands oi years prepared their own bever-
ages, and make themselves drunk so long as a grain of yellow
corn is to be had anywhere. The different sorts of native pombe
USURE, AN IMPORTANT LOCALITY. 513
are certainly lighter than European brandy, and as the natives
have always been accustomed to put away large quantities, there
can be no doubt that brandy is far more injurious to them than
their native alcohol.
I was compelled here in Usure also, on this day, to dispense
with the personal acquaintance of the Sultana, formerly a friend
of Dr. Fischer. Her prime minister, however, who was dressed
altogether in red, visited me several times, enquired respecting
our wishes, and very readily supplied us with all sorts of
food.
The fever of which I had felt the premonitory symptoms
the day before, now broke out. The attack ^yas indeed Eeturn of
a slight one, and passed off on the following day ; but ^^''^^■
it was tiresome, nevertheless, as it had reduced the bodily
strength I was only just regaining.
In Usure also I determined to enter upon a treaty, by which
the Sultana acknowledged our supremacy, and to hoist our flag.
This was done on May 29th, 1890. On a height, visible from
afar, the black, white, and red flag was displayed, and greeted
by three volleys from three Somalis.
The importance of Usure, for the development of the caravan
road opened up by me, is similar to that of north importance
Iramba. Caravans coming from either side can here °* '''"'^^•
recover from the fatigues of the march across the steppe, and
take in a fresh stock of provisions.
When we were just about to make a start, I was informed
that Mandutto had disappeared. I learnt that the reason for
this step was that, a few days previously, he had
wounded his wife — a young and very handsome Galla- partureof
woman — in the hip with a knife. In consequence of
this she was unable to march any further with us, and Man-
dutto would not leave her behind. Negroes are all very faithful
to their wives and sweethearts, a fact I was able to verify during
my entire journey. So far as regarded Mandutto, I was sorry
he had not spoken to me about it, for I would willingly have
paid him his well-earned wages, and I now had porters in abun-
dance at my command. It was a great sacrifice on the part of
33
514 A^EW LIGHT Oy DARK AFRICA.
the intelligent fellow, who forfeited his whole pay in order to
remain with his sick wife.
On Majf 31st we left Usure, and once more made our wa)^
into the bush. The Sultana had presented me with three oxen,
Departure which I had taken with us, intending to have one killed
from TTsure. gygj.y sccoud day. Besides these, I also provided myself
with eighteen fowls, which were carried in baskets for us, as
well as several sheep, that were driven. I may mention, by
the way, that the food for these fowls gave out in the desert.
In order, at any rate, to preserve some of them for our use, I
Ouroanni- thereupon adopted the somewhat original method of
T)ai fowls, having two fowls killed, cooked, and chopped up every
day as food for the rest ; by which measure our stock indeed
rapidly dwindled, but nevertheless lasted us for the march
through the steppe. Sometimes, too, the fowls were fed with
scraps of mutton cutlets.
On the day we started, I had to break our march near a pool
of water we found in the forest, as Herr von Tiedemann once
„ more fell seriously ill. He was again attacked by
Herr von _ •' _ ° •'
Tiedemaim's dysentery, which, especially on the first day, assumed a
truly alarming character, so that I feared the worst.
He had faithfully gone through all the fatigues and dangers of
the expedition with me ; I could not bear the thought that I
might lose him on the last stage of it.
To give him a little rest, I remained encamped in the forest
on June 1st. In these last days I had entirely recovered from
A day's Hiy last attack of fever, by sleeping, literally, day and
T^st- night. On that June 1st I slept nineteen hours out
of the twenty-four, the remaining five being seriously devoted to
the taking of nourishment.
On June 2nd I started, a man completely refreshed, but Herr
von Tiedemann was so weak that he could hardly keep up with
-Hammock the expedition. In consequence, I ordered Salim and
travelling, ^^e Waugwaua, in the evening, to make him a comfort-
able hammock, and persuaded him to make use of it from that
time forth, taking care to appoint four sturdy Wasukuma to act
as his bearers. Thanks to his strong constitution, which time
UWERI-WEBI AND ITS INHABITANTS. 515
after time shook off the attacks of illness, his health gradually
improved under these circumstances, so that he was fairly con-
valescent on arriving at Mpuapua, where Emin Pasha prescribed
more effectual remedies for him.
Thus we journeyed onward through the arid steppe, ever in
a southerly direction. We had always to march until past noon
before we came to water, but still we found some every day,
although we were compelled every now and then to dig for it.
Three or four wells along this route would be quite
sufficient to make it practicable all the year round, and able and
this would mean a shortening of the way, to the saving °'""^*^°"*^'
of nine days in the journey between the coast and Lake Victoria.
The road is even and good, although occasionally rendered some-
what difficult on account of brushwood, and beasts of burden can
also find ample fodder. Therefore I think this route has a future
before it.
On June 6th, after a long day's march, we at length reached
the district of Uweri-weri, which Dr. Fischer, so late as in 1886,
had found still in a flourishing condition, but which
The dis-
was now entirely devastated by the Massais. Instead of trict of
prosperous settlements, we found a wilderness, and what ^^«"-'"^"-
had once been corn-fields was already choked with brushwood.
Only a few miserable ruins remained of the villages, and no
human being inhabited the desolate land. The same indigna-
tion that had possessed me on the Angata na Nyuki now again
stirred within me, against these barbarians of the tablelands,
and I sincerely regretted that our old friends did not here make
another attempt to try their strength with us. I established
our camp just below a hilly ridge, from whence, however, we
had an open view of the desert Massai steppe. The day was grey
and dreary ; an unpleasant wind swept across the steppe, and
I sat, in much depression of mind, in the midst of the desolation
around us. Water was only to be found in dirty pools. I
ordered the tents to be pitched, and was gi-eatly rejoiced at the
arrival, an hour later, of Herr von Tiedemann, who was carried
along in his hammock ; he had borne the fatigues of the day
better than I had expected.
516 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
For the first time for several days we took our supper
together. On leaving my tent, when the meal was over, to give
A strange some Orders, I perceived that the western sky was-
pheno*^ illumined by a most peculiar red, which, at so late an
menon. hour, hardly appeared to me to be caused by the sun.
I called to Herr von Tiedemann to come out. He now told me
that during the afternoon he had several times fancied he heard
the booming of cannon, which appeared to proceed from the
west. This excited our imagination to all kinds of conjectures.
Could the struggle between our countrymen and the Arabs have
extended so far to the west ? Could measures have been taken
to occupy Tabora, in order there also to make a clean sweep of
the Arab rabble ; a step which we already considered necessary
when at Lake Victoria ? But Hussein, whom I questioned
respecting the redness of the sky, destroyed the illusion by
soberly declaring that the light came from the sun, which,
although it seemed very extraordinary after seven o'clock in the
evening, was not impossible.
On the following morning we left Uweri-weri, and pro-
ceeded southwards, continually through bushland, arriving be-
tween ten and eleven o'clock at Kabaragas, which is inhabited
by the tribes of the Wakimbu. The place lies in a hollow, and
the people, full of eager curiosity, ran out from behind the red
clay walls as we descended the slope. Friendship was quickly
In Kabara established between us ; the camp was pitched to the
gas;excit- west of the village, and food of every kind provided.
For the first time for a week we were again among
strangers. The people at once reported to me : " A week ago
three messengers of the Badutschi, from Mpuapua, passed along,
the Usonga road ; they are said to be carrying letters for the
white man who is coming from Uganda." These tidings were
afterwards confirmed to me at Mpuapua. The gentlemen of the
Mission had wished to send me a friendly welcome, and also-
news from Europe. Unfortunately these tidings failed to reach
me, because — what no one in Mpuapua could have foreseen —
I had marched through the Wembaere desert, and not by way
of Unjamwesi. These letters only came into my hands ia
UGOGO;—AN ARAB TRADER. 517
Germany, several months later. This was the more to be
regretted, as they would have spared me much of the anxiety
I experienced, even in Ugogo, respecting our possible reception
on the coast.
On June 8th we at length entered the country of Ugogo.
Towards one o'clock we arrived at the town and district of
Muhalala in 5° 47' S. lat., situated three thousand four District of
hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. To '^^''^°-
those coming hither from the north this country lies extended
in a charming prospect in the hollow. Before us, to the south,
rise the mountains of Bunduko, and on the left are other dark
ridges. These are the Bachi Mountains. To judge by
the maps, one would imagine the whole of Ugogo land aspect of
to be a flat savannah plateau. Doubtless this arises from ^^°^°'
the fact, that every traveller considers Ugogo to be so well known,
that it is unnecessary to give any details about it. The conse-
quence is that the map of this country is particularly inexact.
That day I pitched my camp in an enclosed space on the
northern slope, just above the villages. We had a splendid view
over the whole surrounding country. I had scarcely established
myself comfortably in my tent, when Salim arrived with the
announcement that two Germans had encamped down below at
Muhalala, who were on their way from Tabora to Mpuapua.
I immediately sent off a letter to these reported white .
■' ^ An ex-
men, by some of my Somalis. My messengers re- aggerated
rfiTiort
turned in about an hour's time, and said : " There
is only one traveller down below, instead of two. This one
does not belong to any expedition, but is alone ; nor is he
a European, but an Arab, and he is not going to Mpuapua, but
to Irangi." Here was another proof of the amount of reliance
that, generally speaking, may be placed on the communications
of black men.
In point of fact, the man in question was the Arab
Mohammed Bin Omari, one of the great Tabora ^^^^ ^^^^
Arabs ; he possessed places of business in Irangi, trader, Bin
and was now following his caravan thither, for the
purpose of sending the ivory stored up there to the coast.
518 i\EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
From all I have heard about Irangi in these latter days,
I cannot but think that this country has perhaps a future before
it. Like Iramba, it appears to be a damp oasis in the water-
lacking desert, and I was informed that its inhabitants were
"good," from which it may be concluded that there are no
Massais dwelling in it. The inhabitants are probably of the
same race that we met with in Iramba, who are closely related
to the Wagogo.
Mohammed Bin Omari arrived at my tent after breakfast,
to pay his respects to me, and to bring me tribute.
Interview " Come nearer," I said, on his appearing with some
ta^^d' of his followers at the entrance of my tent. " You
Bin Omari. gome from Tabora ? "
"I come from Tabora," he replied, "and am going to
Irangi."
" Well, how are things looking in Tabora ? Do you Arabs
there wish to have war upon the Germans, or do you prefer to
have peace ? "
" We Arabs of Tabora wish to have peace, and have already
sent this message to the coast."
" Well, that is right. I think, too, that it is the very best
thing for your own interest, for you must have understood that
you are not able to fight against the Germans. You will have
heard that my brothers have defeated Bushiri. We, on our
part, have defeated the tribes in the north, the Gallas and
Massais, and have come down from Uganda."
"What tidings do you bring from Uganda ? "
" In Uganda the Arabs have been beaten just the same as
in the east. They have all been killed, or have been obliged to
Achieve ^^® ^^ Unjoro. The Christians rule in Uganda, and if
ments of the the Arabs wish to carry on trade there again, thev will
Badntschi. , ^ n • . . .1 V.i ■ • 1 m,
have to submit to the Christians there too. The war
is at an end ; you are beaten at all points, and it is to be hoped
you will not be unwise enough again to begin fighting against
the Badutschi."
" The war is at an end," repeated Mohammed Bin Omari,
" and we, all of us, wish for peace. Pray make our peace with
MOHAMifED BIN OM ART'S INFORMATION. 519
Uganda. The news about you has already reached us in Tabora,
and we know that you can also procure peace for us at Lake
Victoria."
"I must first learn what are the commands of the great
Sultan of the Badutschi. If he wishes it, then I shall be quite
ready to make your peace with Uganda."
" Will you not, then, give me a letter to show that I am the
friend of the Germans, and wish to have peace with them ? "
" Such a letter I will willingly give you, but know that it
depends entirely upon your own behaviour whether
you will permanently remain the friend of the Germans of friend"*
or not. Our eyes are sharp, and we soon find out if °^^^'
any one is acting honestly by us, or wishes to play us false."
Mohammed Bin Omari now presented me with a few sheep,
some rice, honey, and milk. Then he inquired, —
" Is there anything else that you require me to do ? If so,
let me know ; I will give you all you demand. You perhaps
wish for stuffs or beads ? "
" No, thank you. I want neither cloth nor beads, but give
me accurate information concerning the condition of Ugogo.
How many days' journey have we to Mpuapua ? "
" You will want nine or ten days to get to Mpuapua, if you
march well."
" Shall we have war on the road ? "
" No war as far as Nsagara, if you pay tribute to Makenge."
" I am a German, and pay no tribute. I paid no tribute to
the Massais, and I expect of Makenge that he will not come to
us with any demand for tribute. Then, farewell ! "
When we descended the slope the next morning, and marched
past Muhalala, we found Mohammed Bin Omari standing by
the wayside, with some of his followers, to greet us once jjoj^^^j^^gj
more, and to make me further presents of rice, sugar, Bin omari-s
milk, and sheep. It must be said of the Arabs that
they are most polite and respectful in their manners, and their
behaviour shows more refinement than is found in the majority
of the white race.
I now continued to advance towards the east. At ten o'clock
520 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
there suddenly opened upon my astonished gaze a far-stretching
region, lying considerably below us, bordered in the distant
east by blue mountains. This was the land of Ugogo proper,
and the rocky incline before which we stood Mas no other than
the southern spur of the skirting range of Mau, which we had
climbed months previously at Elgejo. The eye rested delight-
edly upon the flat country lying in the valley, that spread out
before us like a sea covered with ice and snow.
The difficulty now was to find a place where we might
descend. But the Wagogo, who stood around, pointed out the
way, and Avith some trouble the column, as well as the beasts of
burden, were successfully transported to the foot of the moun-
The Kiiima tain in the course of an hour. This mountain ridge is
Tindi ridge, galled in Ugogo Kiiima Tindi. The mountain ridges,
shining with bluish tints on the distant horizon, belonged to
the Marenga Mkali, or to the western boundary of Mpuapua.
Salim, who was well acquainted with the country, pointed out
all this to me. My troop of Wanjamwesi and Manyema broke
into loud shouts of rejoicing on seeing before them the Ugogo
they knew so well.
We now proceeded eastwards until past midday. The sun
shone hotly down upon us. Stanley calls Ugogo a garden, and
regrets that he is unable to have a hand in cultivating
Deceptive ° .
appear- it as such. He would probably experience a great dis-
appointment if he attempted to do so. This supposed
garden, more than any other country in Eastern Africa, is simply
a dry savannah, in which the watercourses themselves contain
water only in the rainy season, and where even those expeditions
which, like our own, traverse the country immediately after the
rainy season have continually to combat against the drought.
The river Bubo, flowing from the north to Ugogo, and form-
ing part of the Rufidschi water system, was already, by the
A dry arid middle of Juuc, entirely dried up, and we had to'dig for
region. ^yater in its bed. Out of such a country no garden
could be made ; cattle-breeding alone is possible, and the culti-
vation of maize and corn only in a very limited area, in particular
positions. Of all the countries through which we travelled
CUARAClEBmriC^ OF riJE WAGOGO.
i21
Ugogo is the ugliest, and, I may add, the most re]iiilsivc' ; and
the disposition of the people is in keeping with the character of
the conTitr3\ The Wagogo are originally of Bantu race, but
if .
View op the Plaix of U&ogo,
NEAK MTIVE.
apparentl_y have a con-
siderable admixture of
Massai blood. Like the
Massais, they are arrogant and
addicted to thieving. They
look upon strangers simply as
enemies ; and as for thousands of
,years traffic has taken its course
through their land, they have estaTjlished
for themselves a predaceous custom of exacting tribute, under
which all the trade caravans have to suffer grievously.
In his work "In Darkest Africa," vol. ii., p. 40G, Stanley
522 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
thus complains, in a somewhat sentimental strain : — " There is
no countr}' in Africa that has excited greater interest in me
than this. It is a ferment of trouble and distraction, and a
vermin of petty annoyances beset the traveller from day to day
while in it. No natives know so well how to aggrieve and be
unpleasant to travellers. One would think there was a school
somewhere in Ugogo to teach low cunning and vicious malice to
the chiefs, who are masters in foxy-craft. Nineteen years ago
I looked upon this land and people with desiring eyes. I saw in
it a field worth some effort to reclaim. In six months I felt
sure Ugogo could be made lovely and orderly, a blessing to the
inhabitants and to strangers, without any very great expense or
trouble ; it would become a pleasant highway of human inter-
course with far-away peoples, productive of wealth to the natives,
and comfort to caravans. I learned, on arrival in Ugogo, that
I was for ever debarred from the hope. It is to be the destiny
of the Germans to carry out this work, and I envy them. It is
the worst news of all that I shall never be able to drain this
cesspool of iniquitous passion, and extinguish the insolence of
Wagogo chiefs, and make the land clean, healthy, and even
beautiful of view. While my best wishes will accompany
German efforts, my mind is clouded with a doubt that it ever
will be that fair land of rest and welcome I had dreamed of
making it."
What a pity for Ugogo that Stanley cannot carry out his
plans respecting this country ! It would indeed be an enormous
Lost oppor- advantage for the whole of Eastern Africa if the cara-
tunities. -^-g^^g^ instead of passing through an entirely dried-up
savannah at the back of Usagara, could make their way through
a verdant and flourishing garden. Certainly Mr. Stanley had a
capital opportunity offered him " to extinguish the insolence of
Wagogo chiefs " when he last traversed this country, and it is
only to be regretted that he took no advantage of it.
On June 9th we found ourselves in the western part of
Makeiige's country, and on this day I set up the camp at
Mtive, once again in an encampment that had been occupied by
Mr. Stokes. When Stanley passed through Makenge's country
3rB. STANLEY IN UGOGO. 523
nine months previously the latter had sent to him with the
request that he should pay tribute immediately, ihedis-
Stanley, at the head of one thousand men, and possess- ^fggtiMi of
ing a Maxim gun, could have utilised this excellent tribute,
occasion " to extinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs," for a
demand of this kind for tribute, in the face of so strong an
expedition commanded by nine white men, may well be called
insolence.
Instead of setting to work " ta drain this cesspool of ini-
quitous passion," however, Stanley sent Makenge the accustomed
tribute paid by caravans. But with this Makenge was
not satisfied. He returned the simple tribute, and now and
demanded of Stanley that he should give him up his ^'^ ^^'
men for feudal labour. He desired Stanley to have a fortified
camp built for him.
Here was the second opportunity for Mr. Stanley " to ex-
tinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs." He was certainly
suflBciently angry at this demand of Makenge's, but instead of
refusing it, and waiting for the consequences, he considered it
the wiser course to give way, and sent Makenge four times the
usual tribute, with which the latter was graciously pleased to
declare himself satisfied.
This small episode, which took place during Stanley's sojourn
in Ugogo, is not related by him, and I only mention it to make
the following circumstances more intelligible.
It is as clear as possible that if an expedition of the strength
of Stanley's in Ugogo consented to pay tribute, one ^^^^^^^_
could scarcely expect either great respect or correspond- payers not
*/ ■*- (_/-»- 1*681] BClJSCl
ing humility towards the white race from the people of
the land. Accordingly, what happened to us in this country is
not in any way to be wondered at.
We were still sitting at breakfast, when some rascally
Wagogo began to crowd round our tent, and one of them placed
himself rudely in front of the entrance. On my requesting
him to be off", he grinned impudently, but remained where he
was. Hereupon Herr von Tiedemann, who sat nearest to the
door, sprang from his seat, seized the fellow, and flung him on
524 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
one side. I too jumped up, and called out to Hussein to lay
hold of him, and to teach him a lesson with the hippo-
the^wa^ ° potamus-hide whip. This was done amidst howls of
^"^"^ lamentation, whilst the Wangwana informed us that the
offender was the son of the Sultan of the country. Whilst this
Avas going on there arose, to the north of the camp, the war-cry
of the Wagogo, which we knew so well. These people had
driven away my men from the water because I had paid no
tribute, and now came rushing towards the camp. I im-
mediately betook myself to the north side of it, and saw how
the Wagogo warriors, armed for the most part each with two
lances, came dancing along, challenging us to fight.
As they began to shoot their arrows at us, I fired amongst
them, knocking one over, and hitting another in the arm.
They now took to headlong flight, and immediately some
check to of the chiefs came to me to open peace negotiations,
insolence. ,pj^^ debate upou these continued all the afternoon, and
in the evening it was at last decided to send messengers to
Makenge, to whose capital we were to march on the following
day, and to leave the settling of the matter to him.
I stationed twelve sentries to guard the camp during the
„ ^ night, and the following morning set out, with beat of
Harch to- ~ ' ° .
wards the drum, On our march eastward, passing great crowds
of the Wagogo as we went. Our way led through an
almost dried-up river, into the country of Unjanguira. At
eleven o'clock we came to a well-cultivated territory, which
strongly reminded me of the country bordering Lake Moris,
near Alexandria. I remarked that large bodies of men were
running about behind the maize fields, and was further dis-
agreeably impressed by the hyena-like howl of the Wagogo, in
which I plainly recognised a war-cry.
When we had pursued our way through the maize fields
lying east of the villages, I suddenly became aware of several
hundred Wagogo warriors, who were kneeling by the left side of
the road, with bows bent and lances ready for battle, and one
of the chiefs came running towards us, shouting in impudent
tones the demand for tribute ("Mahongo! Mahongo ! ").
STRAINED RELATIONS WITH THE WAGOGO. 525
My contempt for these rascals had been increased by the
occurrences of the previous day. I handed my gun
1,1. 1 , 1 . , . Renewed
to my servant, and, taking my long knotted stick m demand of
my hand, made straight for the Wagogo, calling out *^^ ^'^'
to them : —
"Take yourselves off from here, and mind what you are
about ! "
They all rose, and moved slowly away. I then marched to
an encampment in the south of Makenge's capital, and imme-
diately sent a message to the Sultan, requesting him to put
himself in communication with me, as I desired to know whether
he wished for war or peace.
The messengers returned with their commission unexecuted.^
They had been warned by a caravan of Wanjamwesi, encamped
in the vicinity, not to enter Makenge's capital, where, they
declared, thousands of warriors were collected to attack us.
To be prepared for this emergency, as I was almost jj^j^ggj^jf^
without ammunition for my muzzle-loaders, I sent in ammuni-
all haste for the only load of wire I had brought with
me on the expedition, had it filed into pieces, and distributed
these among my men. We then seated ourselves for breakfast,
during which messengers, sent from the Wanjamwesi caravan,,
appeared to offer us their friendship.
Whilst I was speaking to them messengers suddenly arrived
from Makenge.
" Our Sultan sends you word that he wishes for peace with
you. He wishes to be the friend of the Germans, and you are
to pay no tribute in his country."
"Tell your Sultan," I replied, "if he desires to be the
friend of the Germans, and our friend, he must ex- jj^^g^g^.^
change presents with me. Let him send me corn and mesaenger
° ^ , , ^ „ rebuked.
honey, and I will give him powder and cloth stutts.
We were still in conversation, when the clatter of guns, pro-
ceeding from the west of our camp, again near the water,
suddenly resounded. In wild haste my men came rushing to
the camp from that direction. Seizing my double-barrelled,
gun, I stepped forth from my tent, and cried, —
.526 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
" Where are the Wagogo ? "
" There, and there, and there ! From every side they
come ! ''
And so it was. From every direction I could see the
Wagogo in croAvds dancing forward.
This sight so roused my anger that I cried out to my men :
" Dererah, Somal ! " ( " Fight, Somalis ! ") " To your guns,
War with SOUS of the Unjamwesi, sons of Usukuma, and sons of
thewagogo.jyja^jjyej^a I Forward ! Down with the Wagogo ! "
The plan of action was soon settled. A few of the Somalis
had to protect the east and north side of the camp. To the
west and south, from whence the chief attack proceeded, I
hastened forward with ahout twenty men to oppose the enemy.
Herr von Tiedemann was at first at my side, hut I ordered him
back to the eastern side.
The Wagogo, between two and three thousand strong, accord-
ing to Von Tiedemann's computation, and many of them armed
with muzzle-loaders, began the attack. An unfortunate circum-
stance for me was that my men could only shoot at
Tinder diffi- short distances with those wretched pieces of wire, which
somewhat lessened the superiority of our firearms. My
double-barrelled gun, however, and the repeating guns of the
Somalis, maintained their usual efficiency. In accordance with
my old Massai tactics, I gave orders to fire several volleys, so
as to begin by knocking down some of their warriors. With
loud cheers we then advanced, but in such a way as to carefully
watch the movements of our adversaries, and when they halted
we halted too, and fired upon them again.
The sun shone fiercely, but in half an hour the Wagogo had
been repulsed from the camp towards the south and west ; and
now I sent a message to Herr von Tiedemann, requesting him
to remain in camp and guard it, as I intended to advance
against the villages situated about half a mile to the southward,
and there to attack the Wagogo in my turn. I was in the act
of carrying out this intention, and was pushing forward against
the villages, when I was suddenly met by messengers from
Makenge.
PUNISHMENT OF THE WAGOGO. 527
" The Sultan wishes for peace with you, and will pay you
tribute in ivory and oxen."
I replied, " The Sultan shall have peace. It shall sues for °'"
be the eternal peace. I will show the Wagogo what the ^^*''^"
Germans are."
So I advanced against the first village, where the Wagogo at
first tried to defend themselves ; but after several of them had
been shot down, they rushed in wild flight out at the south gate,
and the village was in our hands.
"Plunder the village, set fire to the houses, and smash
everything to pieces that will not burn ! "
But unfortunately it soon became apparent that the Wagogo
villages themselves do not burn easily, being composed of
wooden buildings covered with clay, with a circular „ .
^ •' ' Burning of
enclosure around them. I ordered large quantities of wagogo
wood to be placed in the houses, which were systemati- " ^^^^'
cally set on fire. The axes that I sent for to the camp did their
work also in knocking down the walls, so the first village was
soon in ruins. Whilst this work was proceeding I placed three
Somalis as a guard on the south side, and frightened away the
Wagogo with my shots.
Meanwhile, I sent off a message to the neighbouring
Wanjamwesi caravan, with which we had already concluded
terms of friendship : " Come and help us. If we capture the
herds of the Wagogo you shall have a share of the booty."
This was between two and three in the afternoon. The
Wanjamwesi, however, did not probably feel very confident about
the matter, for they did not appear upon the scene of the a renewed
encounter until five o'clock. Now Hussein called out ^^^™'-
to me : " Master, come ! the Wagogo are attacking the camp ! "
I answered, " I will show you how to drive the Wagogo
away from the camp."
We crept through the maize fields, and suddenly began to
fire upon the hordes, who were rushing on from the east cowardice
in flank and in rear. They fled wildly, scattering in of the ^
every direction. My contempt for the Wagogo was so
great, that during this fight I said repeatedly to my men, " I
.yjs
.v/:ir Ljnirr ax dark africa.
will prove to you what kind of rascals we liave lo deal willi.
Stay, all ol' you, where you are, and I will alone drive the
Wag'oso away." T went towards the Wagogo, shouted "Hurrah ! "
aud away they ran hx huiulreds.
I uii'Ution this, not to represent our advance as anything
UesTEUCTIOX <JI the \VAIt()(,i)
YlLLAr,ES.
heroic, hut only to show what
all tills African population
really is, and how exaggerated
are the ideas which exist in Euro])e
concerning their warlike capabilities
and the means necessary for 'their
subjugation. The Wagogo are considered one ol' the trilie?
most to be dreaded in the whole of the German East Africar
Protectorate, before whom the Wangwana of the coast tremble
on entering their country ; and yet we were able, Avith bac
ammunition and only twenty men, to send thousands of then
scamperinii'.
From three in the afternoon I advanced against the otliei
THE WANJAMWE8I :—A CATTLE BAID. 529
villages in the south. Everywhere the same spectacle was
repeated. After a short resistance the Wagogo fled in all direc-
tions; burning brands were thrown into the houses, and the
axes did their work in hewing in pieces what could not be
burnt. By half-past four, twelve villages were thus burnt
down ; but I was not in a position to seize the herds that were
grazing further south on a mountain slope, for I had, as a
rule, only six to ten men immediately around me, and I could
not but suppose that the Wagogo would here fight more
energetically.
Suddenly, at about five o'clock, I saw large numbers coming
hurriedly towards me, from the direction of my camp. At first
I took them for Wagogo, and was just on the point of
firing at them. But my people cried out to me, — the wan-
"The W^anjamwesi are coming ! " jamwesi.
I now called out to the Wanjamwesi, " Come on, Wanjam-
wesi ! Forward upon the oxen of the Wagogo ! There they are,
yonder ! Hurrah ! "
And off we set, rushing wildly past several villages, towards
the herds of oxen. The Wagogo endeavoured rapidly to drive
their herds away, but we succeeded in seizing two or The cattle
three hundred head, knocking over those of the herds- ^i*''®
' ~ wagogo
men who did not flee. My gun had become so hot seized,
from frequent firing that I could scarcely hold it. The greater
part of the firing on that day fell to my share, as I was almost
the only person who possessed a sufficient supply of ammunition.
My burning thirst I quenched from time to time with some sour
milk we had seized.
The sun was sinking in the west when I at last gave the
order to retire. My people were so full of fighting spirit, that I
could scarcely prevail upon them to return. They were plun-
dering in the various villages, or scoffing at the Wagogo, who
were still either standing or lying about in the background in
large numbers.
At half-past five we began our return march. The cattle
were driven along with us, and the Wagogo followed at a
respectful distance, still firing upon us, until we were close
34
o30 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
to our camp. But they were unable to regain possession of a
single head of their cattle. On the following morning, they
reported their loss on that afternoon as " over fifty."
When we approached the camp, Herr von Tiedemann and
the men there came out joyfully to meet us.
" Well, Herr von Tiedemann, I think those will last us as
far as Mpuapua," I said, pointing to the cattle.
We shook hands and walked towards the camp. My men
performed warlike and triumphal dances round the animals.
On entering my tent, I again quenched my thirst, this time with
cognac and Avater ; I then distributed the remaining powder
and bits of wire, and posted sentries round the camp,
ofsun-''™^ I experienced a peculiar heaviness in the head, from
stroke. running so much in the hot sun. As became manifest
on that very night, I had contracted an affection of the brain,
which made itself felt during the next few days in deafness,
as well as in feverish temperature and a general feeling of
discomfort.
Before turning back from the villages of the Wagogo, I had
shouted to them, —
" You now know Kupanda Sharo and the Germans a
little better than you did this morning ; but you shall learn to
Threaten- ^^^^ them in quite another fashion. I shall now
d^g the remain amongst you in your country, so long as a man
of you is alive, so long as one of your villages still
stands, and a single animal of your herds is to be seized ! "
A great slaughtering of cattle was now going on in the
camp, and a joyous spirit pervaded the men seated round the
camp-fires, before which reclined also the Wanjamwesi, who had
been invited to stay till evening.
At nine o'clock Makenge sent his sons to me. They brought
some ivory, representing a net value of about one thousand
Makenge's marks, as a first tribute, and requested to know what
submiflsion. ^ygj.^ ^^ conditions of peace.
" Tell your Sultan that I want no peace with him. The
Wagogo are liars, and must be destroyed from off the face of the
-earth. But if the Sultan wishes to become the slave of the
CAEAVANS OF THE WANJAiVWEST AND M0HA2IMED. 531
Germans, then he and his people may live. As a proof of your
submission, let him send me to-morrow morning a tribute of
oxen, sheep, and goats, let him send me milk and honey, and
then we will negotiate further."
That night I fell into a heavy sleep, from which I was
awakened before sunrise by the lowing of cattle. Makenge had
sent me thirty-eight oxen, as well as a number of sheep.
In the course of the day, milk and honey and other sends
articles arrived in addition. I now consented to enter
into a treaty with him, by virtue of which he was placed under
■German authority. I promised to send him the flag, as soon as
I should reach Mpuapua.
The great Wanjamwesi caravan, which was encamped in the
neighbourhood, sent me a deputation on that day to ^^^ ^^^
say, "Be our leader; we will be your people." This jamwesi
•caravan numbered over twelve hundred men, and
possessed, amongst other advantages, a great many drummers.
Having settled everything by June 11th, we started again
on our eastward march on the 12th, the black, white, and red
flag waving gaily in the morning breeze, the drums beating
lustily, and the Wagogo herds in the van. Not a Wagogo was
to be seen in the whole country side.
We encamped this day on the banks of the Bubo river,
-which flows from north to south, but which was at that time
■dried up, as I have already mentioned. I could By the
scarcely move at all, and on this day had a kind ^"'"' "''"'•
■of litter constructed for myself also, in which it was my
intention to be carried on the morrow. After a march of some
seventeen miles, we reached Ungombe on June 13th. The
water standing here in small ponds had been rendered so dirty
by the drinking of herds of cattle at them, that we could not
make use of it even for soup.
On this day Makenge's son, who was governor here,
voluntarily sent me twenty oxen as tribute. Here we jj^^^^^j
found encamped a large Arab caravan, which was still ^^^^^'^
negotiating with the Wagogo respecting tribute. It
was the caravan belonging to Mohammed Bin Omari, whom
532 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
I had met at Muhalala. Scarceh' had they heard of our
arrival, when a deputation came to request that I would
become their leader ; the}' would be ni}' people, if I would
conduct them safely out of Ugogo. I accepted this proposal,
and thus became the commander of more than two thousand
men.
In the night I broke out into a healthy perspiration, which
brought me relief from my attack of something like a sun-
stroke, but on June 14th my deafness still continued. On
that day I did not give the order to start till the afternoon,,
a proceeding always to be recommended when one cannot hope
to reach water in a single march : the people have time to
cook their food in the last encampment, the animals can
be watered for the day, and on the second day water will be
reached.
On June 14th we turned slightly from our easterly course,
and proceeded east-north-east, to avoid the so-called Lindi
Circuit mountain chain. Having marched for some hours
Lindf*^* through forest and bush, we reached an open space,
mountains, gj-aggy but dry, at five o'clock. Here we encamped.
It was a dull evening. The wind whistled loudly, and we sat
in my tent feeling remarkably chilly. ,. I retired to rest in a
depressed state of mind, thinking of my deafness. All kinds
of anxious thoughts passed through my brain. What if I were
to become blind as well as deaf? How sad would be the
future before me ! I fell asleep at a late hour, and, awaking
about two o'clock, called to my servant to bring me
A great •' ~
relief from something to drink. I had brought sufficient water
with me for Herr von Tiedemann and myself. Who
shall describe my feelings of joy on my distinctly hearing
Buana Mku's answer, and recognising that my deafness had
entirely left me, for I could hear as well as ever !
I started, in consequence, early the next morning, in the
brightest spirits ; leaving the Lindi chain far behind us, we
reached Matako. It was said to be a twelve hours' march from
here to Msanga, the nearest place where water was to be had. I
therefore determined to alter our ordinary method of proceeding,.
EMIN PASHA REPORTED AT 2IPUAPUA. 533
and gave orders for marching at midnight, that I might reach
Msanga at noon on the following day. We certainly
... An early
overslept ourselves and missed the midnight horn-, so start for
that we could not leave Matako before three a.m.; but °*"^^'
as the distance proved to comprise a march of only ten hours
instead of twelve, we reached our destination soon after
midday.
These night marches possessed one advantage, in that I
could comfortably be carried over the ground in a litter, a pro-
ceeding for which in the daytime I had never patience, even
when I felt unwell. When morning dawned, I generally called
a halt in some camping-ground, and set tire to the straw huts, at
which we warmed ourselves, and in the glow of which we par-
took of our breakfast. Then came the best part of our march.
During a few hours thereupon the donkeys were requisitioned,
and, as the country bordering the west of Ugogo became gradu-
ally more fertile and attractive, that march to Msanga was one
of the pleasantest during the whole of our return journey.
At Msanga we found a great Wanjamwesi caravan, that had
come from^Mpuapua. The chiefs immediately came a caravan
to salute me. They carried the German flag, and German^^
gave us some news from the coast, though their tidings ^^•s-
were somewhat confused.
" We had heard that you had defeated the Massais, and now
the Germans are waiting for you at Mpuapua. There, ^.^.^^^
too, is Min Pasha, who has brought loads for you, and of Emin
with whom you are to return to the Nyanza."
" Do you mean to tell me that Emin Pasha is at Mpuapua .P"
" Yes, in Mpuapua is Min Pasha, and they have cattle as
the sand. There is a large house of stone."
These tidings were so altogether surprising, that they fur-
nished subject for conjecture and conversation during the whole
day, and yet, in my inmost heart, I was little disposed to credit
them. I expected to find, as usual, that it would turn out to
be some mistake. But this time I was to find myself in the
wrong.
June 17th brought us but a short march. We now entered
534 XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
the countrj' of Mahamba, and reached a place called, after the
Sultan, Yagallo. Kwam Yagallo is situated on the south-western
Arrival ^^°P® °^ ^^^ Pauieda hills, that separate Ugogo proper
atKwam from Marenga Mkali, and which we had to march
*^°' ' round on the southern side. Here we found a number
of caravans, which had come from the east under the German
flag. The camp was pitched near a watercourse, whose contents,
though somewhat brackish, were drinkable. Marenga Mkali
means " salt water," and takes its name from the mineral nature
of the waters in this district.
Hardly had the tents been pitched, when my people suddenly
Appearance reported, " Massais ! Massais ! "
ofMassaiB. g^^g euough, on the other side of the camp, were
the Massais, driving their herds to the river to water them.
Here they were again at last, our good old friends ; certainly
a little more slovenly in appearance than the proud sons of
Leikipia. The Massais here, in northern Ugogo, also till the
soil, and have certainly a little degenerated through the admix-
ture of Bantu blood ; but in outward appearance, and especially
in the way in which they were armed, they bore a strong
resemblance to their brothers of the north.
" Come, over to this side of the river," I shouted to them.
" Bring me presents, and you shall receive presents from me."
" "Who are you ? " they replied.
" Kupanda " I am Kupauda Sharo, and we have defeated the
quaintlnM ' Massais of Leikipia."
declined. u ^^ . g^g^y y^^ ^p^^ ^^^^ g^^j^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^j^ remain
upon this side. We are afraid to come over."
This open declaration was received by my people with a roar
of laughter ; but, inviting as the fine herds of Massai cattle
were to the Somalis and to ourselves, I considered it more
prudent to refrain from attacking the Massais on the other side.
By two o'clock they had marched away again into the steppe
with their herds.
That night we were really on the march soon after mid-
night. We were going into the Marenga Mkali country, and
had left a long stretch behind us before daybreak. After we
THE MARENGA MKALI ;—KA2rPI. 535
had breakfasted we once more pushed on, and we entered the
mountain district that separates Ugogo from Usagora, The
our road winding through attractive scenery, over easy ^klii^^
mountain passes. We were repeatedly met by caravans country.
of Wanjamwesi, who greeted us with a respectful " Jambo "
or " Morning." At times the view opened into the Massai
steppe on the left. Once, an eminence was pointed out to me
by Salim, on the north-eastern horizon, as Kilima Ndscharo, but
1 cannot undertake to say if he was right.
All that morning we marched through glorious mountain
scenery. The air was cool, for a breeze in the valleys continually
refreshed us. We came upon great herds of giraffes and zebras.
Thus we continued our march until mid-day. Here the road
wound down a far-stretching mountain slope to the left. We
turn off towards the north, and see before us a narrow mountain
pass ; the sides of the hills are clothed with fields of Arrival at
maize and mtama. We are at Kampi, the Marenga ^ampi.
Mkali lies behind us, and we have only one short day's march to
get to the German station in Mpuapua. Here, too, we found
more caravans encamped. The traffic all along this route is
very considerable. I know no German high-road on which
there is such a regular and uninterrupted personal and vehicular
traffic, back and forwards, as upon this caravan route from
Ugogo to the coast. The number of people who annually pass
this way must be reckoned by hundreds of thousands.
On arriving at Kampi my first proceeding was to write a
letter and send it by some messengers to "The gentlemen at the
station in Mpuapua," telling them that I should arrive there at
half-past ten on the following morning.
The water was more than two miles distant from our camp,
so on that day we had to wait until evening before we could get
a meal. After supper, so strong a wind blew from the ^ ^^^^^^^_
east, through the valley where we were encamped, that ^^^^^^^""^^
the tent soon began to bend to one side, and was twice
blown down. As there was not the least prospect of the-wind
lulling during the night, I had to make up my mind to have
my camp bed placed in th« open air, sheltered only by a few
J36 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
bushes, and there to compose myself to sleep ; but I slept none
the less sound]_y after all, for the fatigues of the previous night
and of the da}- had thoroughly exhausted me.
And now the day was breaking for our last march before
meeting with German countrymen. Full of excited expectation
^. , ^ , we started, first to climb the mountain pass before
Pmal day's ' ^
march to us, from wheuce, we were told, the valley of Mpuapua
^" ' was to be seen. I hastened onwards with a few men
of the column. The descent was an easy one. The bush
gradually developed into a forest, and we continued to proceed
further towards the east. All at once, soldiers in the uniform
of the German protecting troop met us, and saluted us. Con-
sequently we must now be close to the station. There — one
more turn of the road, and on the heights ot Mpuapua we
descried the black, white, and red flag.
Our hearts beat higher at this sight, and, in a state of
joyful excitement, we pursued the path, which wound round
. , the north side of the station. Meanwhile we must
Friends at
the German have been seen from thence, for, behold, some gentle-
station. . T r. ,, ,
men issued irom the gateway.
Soon, one of them, who was mounted on a donkey, galloped
quickly towards me. He jumped down, and, taking off his hat,
greeted me warmly. This was Herr Janke. Behind him came
two gentlemen on foot. These were the officer in charge of
the station. Lieutenant von Billow, and Lieutenant Langheld.
" Emin Pasha is here, also." A gentleman under the middle
height, wearing a simple blue uniform and helmet, now came
forward. A black beard framed in a face whose deep
wrinkles told of long-continued mental strain. This was
Emin Pasha !
"May I introduce Dr. Peters to your Excellency .P " said
Herr von Biilow.
Meeting " ^ ^"^ ^'^^^ S^^^ *° ^^^ 7°^," replied Emin Pasha,
■with Emin taking my hand and stroking it. " I do not know how
I am to thank you for all you have done for me."
I was so much agitated at meeting my countrymen and at
encountering Emin Pasha, which was after all a surprise for
^n,
^¥
■v-^
ff
,;.. fr
s"
' .'/
• \
/ '■■;
'V\
I
1
-"
MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA. 537
me, that I was scarcely able to speak ; therefore I contented
myself simply with pressing Emin Pasha's hand.
" What an expedition you have behind you," continued the
Pasha. " None of us believed it possible that you could make
your way through. But now, come into my tent."
" Where is Herr von Tiedemann P " asked Herr von
Billow, who was an old comrade of Tiedemann's in the cadet
corps.
"Herr von Tiedemann is following with the caravan," I
replied.
" Then I will ride on a little way to meet him," said Herr
von Billow ; and he took his leave.
Meanwhile, Emin Pasha, still holding me by the hand, led
me to his tent. Emin Pasha's camp was pitched under gigantic
trees, upon the north side of Mpuapua. Above the
. ^ . . ^ ^ Eucamp-
tent little flags fluttered gaily m the breeze, and they ment of
bore, to my astonishment, the same initials as our
own flags, P. E. P. E. (Peters's Emin Pasha Expedition). Emin
Pasha smilingly explained. " You see we, too, bear the device
of your expedition." He had taken over the tents which I had
left behind at Zanzibar. In front of Emin's tent waved the
large black, white, and red flag, flanked on either side by
a gun. His Soudanese soldiers were drawn up, and saluted us
by presenting arms.
"Now, what can I give you in the way of refreshment .P
Will you take claret, or port, or a glass of beer, or Dr.
Stuhlmann," he called out to a delicate-looking gentleman now
approaching us, " here we have Dr. Peters."
I greeted Dr. Stuhlmann, whom I had known in Zanzibar,
and who was just getting about again after a severe attack of
^^^'^^- Meeting
"Now, Doctor, you will let us have a bottle of with Dr.
„ . -,^^11 stuhlmann.
sekt, will you not ? " said Emm to Dr. Stuhlmann.
Emin Pasha had arranged his tent very tastefully, having
pushed his bed into the background, and placed a table and
chairs in the front. The table was covered with writing
materials; books, too, were at hand. Above the table hung
538 KEW LIGHT OX DANK AFRICA.
carefully-prepared birds' skins. The whole almost conveyed
the impression of some German professor's study.
" And now, Dr. Peters," Emin Pasha went on, " something
that will greatly interest you. Prince Bismarck is no longer
Imperial Chancellor."
" ^Yhat ! Prince Bismarck no longer Imperial Chancellor !
„, ,. Is he dead P "
startling
news from " Xo, he is uot dead. He has resigned."
"^"P^- u ^^(j ^Yio is his successor ? "
" General von Caprivi," he replied. " I may inform you,"
he continued, " that His Majesty the Emperor appears to take
the greatest interest in our colonial affairs. In consequence of
this interest, he has commissioned me to lead an expedition
in the Lake Country, in order to restore German influence
there. But I should wish thoroughly to talk over with you the
manner of executing this commission, as you are, at this
moment, among all of us the person best acquainted with the
state of things in the Lake Country. But we will speak more
about that to-morrow ; and now, ask me what you wish to know
further."
'' What has become of Count Herbert Bismarck ? "
" He retired at the same time as his father, and Freiherr von
Marschall has succeeded him as Secretary of State for Foreign
Improved Affairs. Altogether, you will find the position of affairs
lor AMcln '^^ Europe, as well as the feeling about your expedition,
coionisa- much altered. We all work with renewed zeal, full of
confidence for the future of our undertaking," said
Emin Pasha.
I now related to Emin Pasha my arrangements with Uganda.
Emin "^^ interrupted me several times by throwing in the
Pasha's ap- word, " Charming, charming ! " turning with a pleasant
probation. -i t^ oi i n
smile to Dr. Stuhlmann.
Meanwhile Herr von Tiedemann came up, and was likewise
welcomed by Emin Pasha in the heartiest manner. I im-
parted to Herr von Tiedemann the intelligence I had just
received, that Prince. Bismarck was no longer Chancellor of
the Empire.
IMPORTANT STATION OF MPUAPUA. 53&
" I know it," replied Herr von Tiedemann shortly. " I've
full information."
His friend Billow had already told him the startling news.
For about three-quarters of an hour we thus sat in lively
conversation in Emin's tent. I gave orders that my expedition
should establish its camp close to his ; and thus, through all the
hollow between the hill of Mpuapua and the mountain slope in
the north, waved the German flags and streamers.
" Gentlemen, it is time for dinner," said Herr von Bulow.
"May I beg you to step across to the station .P I have also
invited both the gentlemen from the French Mission, Pere
Schynse, a German, and a French Father, so we shall have a
large party to-day. I will now make you and these gentle-
men acquainted with each other."
He rose, and Emin Pasha remained behind for a short time
to make his toilette. JBy this time the two gentlemen from the
French Mission had come up, to whom we were like- xhe station
wise introduced. As soon as the Pasha was ready, we »* ^P^apua.
proceeded up a path into the station of Mpuapua. It is very
solidly built of rock stones, and has a tower more than two
yards in thickness. Herr von Billow was likewise having a
well dug within the station, and the work was being carried
on sturdily.
This settlement is, in truth, an achievement worthy of all
respect. It may be confidently asserted, that Mpuapua is
entirely impregnable, if properly defended, with regard a strong
to any attack where the assailants are not provided p""*'""-
with artillery. I also believe that the neighbourhood is healthy.
It is certainly very windy in Mpuapua, and accordingly colds
must be guarded against ; but, with proper precautions, people
will certainly enjoy better health there than in the damp and
heavy air on the coast. We looked at the various buildings,
and soon entered a solidly-built dining-room, where a banquet
awaited us that might be considered, according to African
ideas, worthy of Lucullus, inasmuch as it included European
vegetables of various soi*ts. In addition, there were good
strengthening dishes of meat, from captured herds of oxen, and
:a() kew light ox dark Africa.
European delicacies iu the way of preserves. The gentlemen of
the station had also been kind enough to save up all
uouBban- they possesscd in the way of drinks for the last few
'^'^^*' weeks, against our arrival, so that in this department
we had such a choice as could hardly have been exceeded, on
similar occasions, in Europe itself.
When we had satisfied the first cravings of hunger, Emin
Pasha stood up, rang his glass, and welcomed us in words
full of heartiness, alluding to the rumours that had been rife,
concerning our destruction, and repeating that he had not con-
sidered it possible to reach his province from the east.
I returned thanks to Emin Pasha, expatiating on his work
on the Upper Nile, and declaring that we had gladly endured
every toil and danger, in the hope that we might be of use to
our great "African" fellow-countryman. Herr von Tiedemann
proposed the health of the chief of the station, Herr von Billow,
and so the meal went on ; for the first time for a year, we were
feasting among our compatriots, and naturally in a very exalted
and excited frame of mind. For a long time we sat thus
Ajoviai en- together, and the sun was already sinking when I rose
campment. ^^ ^^-^^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^-^^^ Emin Pasha through the camp, to
see if all my people had been well lodged. This proved to be
the case. They were all feasting, in the highest spirits at
having reached the strong fortress of the Badutschi. Now, they
considered, all trouble and care was over and past, and the
German Emin Pasha Expedition was virtually ended.
The evening found us all assembled again at the common
table ; the conversation of the dinner was resumed, and notably
I had more opportunity than in the morning to make the ac-
quaintance of Father Schynse, with whom I continued sitting
for a long time after the other gentlemen had betaken them-
selves to their rooms for the night.
Next morning, before six o'clock, I had already repaired to
consuwa- the camp of Emin Pasha, to hold a practical council
uon with ^^-^^^ jj^j^-^ jj^ company with Lieutenant Langheld we
Pasha. • breakfasted in the open air, and then I retired with Emin
Pasha into his tent, for a closer consultation. I began by laying
DESIGNS AND PROCEEDINGS OF EMIN PASHA. 541
before him all my treaties from Uganda and Lake Victoria, of
which he afterwards caused copies to be taken. I called his
attention to the probability of an attempt by the English party
in Uganda, assisted by Jackson, to force Muanga to overturn
these arrangements, and to make others in the British interests.
To safeguard the German interests in Uganda, pending the
decision of His Majesty the Emperor, Emin Pasha determined
at once to send messengers thither, to announce to the king
that at the command of His Majesty the German Emperor he
would come to Lake Victoria, and to exhort Muanga to make
no new, arrangements of any kind differing from the treaties I
brought with me, until the decision of the Emperor should be
known. The messenger who carried this letter started for
Ukumbi on the very next day.
When this had been done, we talked together of the state
of things in the Equatorial Province. Emin Pasha drew my
attention to the fact that he was now in the service of _ . .
the German Empire, but that if through any circum- the German
IT ■• -I • ^ • iTx -i 1. service.
stances he should get back into his old territory, ne
was prepared to undertake for that territory the same
responsibilities which Muanga had taken upon himself for
Uganda, and to work in the sense of these arrangements on the
Upper Nile. Before he decided anything in this direction, he
said, he must naturally be made aware of the position taken
up by the Imperial Government, and he hoped, if possible, to
see me again in Africa.
On this subject also a document was set up and completed.
As a third point, we discussed the object that lay before
Emin Pasha's expedition. Emin asked me to give him
accurate particulars concerning the countries in the west, and
asked my advice respecting what he might have, in the first
instance, to do to fulfil the commission entrusted to The occu-
him by His Majesty. I could only counsel him, to ^aborVL
the best of my knowledge and convictions, that before ^i=«^-
doing anything else he should at once occupy Tabora, or
some other suitable place in its vicinity.
" Then that is also your view," said Emin Pasha. " That
.542 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
coincides entirely with my own opinion, and with what Father
!-ichynse has told me."
I replied : " I am even in a position to make you an offer,
in the name of INIonseigneur Hirth, that in case you are
prepared to occupy Tabora, the Catholic Mission will willingly
place their station, Kipullpulla, there at your disposal, for
your objects. On the question of the practical advantages of
occupying Tabora, in the first instance, there is no necessity
for much debate. Tabora is the central point of all the Arab
influence for the entire Lake territory. Whoever is master of
Tabora has in his hands the key to the three lakes,
Importance . n rrt ^ • i. j2
of the poei- and therefore the occupation of i abora is the first
thing that has to be done on the part of the Germans.
If you should decide first to establish a station by one of
the lakes, you would, after all, only bring about local results.
With Tabora you produce an effect upon all the three lakes
together."
" I am very glad," said Emin Pasha, " that we are so
entirely of the same opinion upon this point, and I am deter-
mined also to act in this sense. As it appears you have, after
all, had a very severe fight in Ugogo, I shall request Herr von
Billow to attach himself, with a part of his force, to my
expedition into the interior. You would oblige me if you
would now give me some particulars on the condition of Ugogo
specially."
" I shall take the liberty of working out for you a very
accurate record of routes, in which the peculiar question of
water supply in that country shall be specially treated."
" And what places on Lake Victoria," continued Emin,
" would you recommend to me for the establishment of a
station P "
" I would recommend your Excellency with this view to
inspect Bukoba, in the south of the Kagera. The southern
Advantages margin of the lake is flat and unhealthy ; the western
of Bukoba. ][3Qi.(jgj. ^g fertile, and as I think more healthy, as it
lies higher. Bukoba appears to me to offer all the conditions
necessary for the establishment of a station."
EMIN'S ACCOUNT OF TRANSACTIONS WITH STANLEY. 543
Emin Pasha noted down all these details verj^ carefully ;
and it was past ten o'clock by the time we went up together
into the station, where we at once proceeded, with the help of
the other gentlemen, to reduce the important discussion of the
morning to writing. Thereupon I wrote letters to Monseigneur
Hirth and Mons. Lourdel in Uganda ; and thus we had a very
satisfactory day's work behind us when, towards one o'clock,
we sat down to luncheon. During this meal there came an
English missionary, from the neighbouring English ^^ English
Mission station of Kisokwe, an amiable, unassuming ■"""""^'^y-
gentleman, who enquired with great interest concerning our
adventures in the north. He remained sitting beside me the
whole afternoon, after the other gentlemen had retired for a
short midday sleep. This was the second day.
After four o'clock I betook myself to Emin Pasha, who now
gave me a number of particulars concerning his expedition and
Stanley's proceedings on the Upper Nile. To my great .
astonishment, I here received the full confirmation of carried off
what I had already heard, here and there, in the shape ^ *" ^^"
of rumours, by Lake Victoria, namely, that Stanley had carried
off Emin Pasha actually by force from the Equatorial Province.
Emin Pasha told me : " When Stanley came, for the first
time, to Lake Albert, he would have been lost if Casati and I
had not gone to him. Stanley did not come to us, we went to
him. He did not reach the Equatorial Province any criticism of
more than you did. When he first arrived at Kiwalli, 11111%^
and found no tidings of us, he did not venture to make iigs-
an advance along Lake Albert to Wadelai, but went back for
four months, to bring up a boat. Then the expedition came
back, and we sought them out, brought them provisions and
clothing, and in this way the expedition was saved from
destruction."
Exactly in the same manner did Signor Casati express
himself to me, a few months later.
" Then Stanley began to press me to give up my post. He
told me the Khedive had sent him hither, for the definite
purpose of delivering to me the order commanding me to
544 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
evacuate tlie Equatorial Province. Stanley gave me to under-
stand that he was empowered, in case of need, to carr)^ me away
from the Province by force. At that time my position
Emin's posi- .nn i x j.i ± •£■ t
tion on the ou the Upper Nile was still oi such a nature, that it i
Upper Nile. -^^^ ^^^ ammunition and stuff goods left, I could have
maintained myself permanently there. Not until afterwards,
and prompted, if not directly by the intrigues, at any rate by
the appearance of the English, my people put themselves in
opposition to me, and in fact solely on the ground that they
would not go away out of their Province. I am convinced that,
if I returned there now, with an equipment, they would all
rejoicingly bid me welcome. But if Stanley had a commission
from the Khedive to lead me away from there, he has certainly
not been loyal to the Khedive ; for a few days later he came
„^ r .V with an offer from the King of the Belgians, that I should
Offer of the ^ " .
King of the hoist the flag of the Congo State m the Equatorial
e gians. p^.Q^^ice, and that King Leopold offered me a contribu-
tion of £1,000 per month for the expenses of the government.
After a short time he advised me not to accept such an offer ;
for that the Congo State, from which he just then came, was in
a condition of great confusion and distraction. Besides, he said,
it was well known to Emin how King Leopold had formerly
treated him (Stanley). Therefore Stanley could not counsel
him to close with this offer, but he would make him a third
proposal. A British East African Company was about to push
forward towards the Upper Nile, from Mombas. Stanley
accordingly proposed that Emin should enter the service of this
company. Emin was to march with all his troops round Lake
Victoria, under the command of Stanley, to Kawirondo. There
they would find out a suitable island on Lake Victoria on which
The British Emin Pasha could fortify himself. Then Stanley
African would hasteu back to Mombas, to bring up reinforce-
company. j^ents for him. Every officer of Emin Pasha and all
his men would, on entering the service of the British East
African Company, receive the same salary they had had from
the Egyptian government. Emin Pasha might himself nego-
tiate with the company in London, respecting his own salary.''
EMIN AND THE BRITISH EAST AFRICAN COMPANY. 545
After my return to Europe, I naturally read with lively
interest Stanley's account of these propositions, which are also
to be found in his book "In Darkest Africa," but in another
connection, and, aboA^e all, with other surroundings. Especially
does Stanley assert that he made this last proposal to Emin
Pasha, not in the name of the British East xVfrican Company,
but only as a proposal emanating from himself.
In contrast to this, Emin Pasha repeatedly asserted, in
Mpuapua, in the most positive manner, that Stanley, to provide
for the case that Emin might be inclined to accept this proposal,
had brought with him from London an agreement Discrepancy
signed by the founders of the British East African sunless
Company, officially drawn up and with seals attached, l^^j^^"^
at the foot of which agreement Emin had only to sign accounts,
his name to conclude the affair. This narrative of Emin's is to
be implicitly credited, inasmuch as he had no reason at all for
stating what was incorrect, whereas it will be understood that
the British East African Company had reasons subsequently,
when Emin had entered the German service, to 'disconnect itself
from the fact that a proposal had been made to him.
"However," continued Emin, "even this last proposal, the
acceptance of which Stanley forced upon me, half by threats, he
did not carry out. When we had arrived in the south of Lake
Victoria, he suddenly found that he did not care to lead me
round the lake and to take me to Kawirondo, from whence, as
had been expressly agreed, I was to reconquer my Emincom-
territory of Unjoro and Uganda with the reinforce- ^„f/„^^ *°
ments Stanley was to bring up ; on the contrary, he Stanley,
suddenly declared that I must go with him to the coast, to com-
plete the affair. He said that without the express command of
the Queen of England he could not mix himself up with the
troubles in Uganda. In this manner I have been compelled to
march with him to the coast, whereas originally the question
was only that of a transfer of my capital from Lake Albert to
Lake Victoria."
" To interfere in Uganda " — this was Emin's opinion, which
he repeatedly expressed—" Stanley did not venture ; as indeed
35
546 NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
in general in the conduct of his expedition, for the details of
which I have the greatest admiration, he often made wide cir-
cuits, to keep out of the way of the tribes he considered as
warlike. This accounts for the wonderful bends and corners to
be found in the route of his expedition."
Emin frequently made the remark : " If at any time Stanley
suffered from a slight illness, as, for instance, from catarrh,
Emin's es ^® '^s.ed to be kept Avaiting for weeks in one spot. On
timate of the Other hand, no particular notice was taken of the
state of health, good or bad, of the other members of
the expedition. But Avhat distinguishes this man is the extra-
ordinary presence of mind and the merciless resolution with
which he carried out what he had made up his mind to do. If
any unexpected incident occurred, very little time elapsed before
Stanley had resolved upon his measures, which were then put in
execution, let the cost be what it might."
I must here declare that, for several reasons, I cannot con-
sider this eulogistic opinion concerning Stanley as the leader of
an expedition, which Emin Pasha expresses, especially with
Dr. Peters's I'egard to his last undertaking, as warranted. Respect-
opmion.- ^jjg ^YiQ presence of mind displayed by Stanley in certain
dangerous situations I can give no sort of opinion ; but his
arrangement of the expedition as a whole, and his decisions at
important turning-points of the enterprise, appear to me in a
high degree incomprehensible, I may even say confused. It is
incomprehensible to me why Stanley, to get to Emin, did not,
in 1887, take the more convenient route from the eastern coast.
What he says in favour of the western route does not in any
way apply. I was afterwards told that in this particular a wish
had been expressed by the Congo State, in whose service Stanley
still was in the year 1887. That would render his general plan
Eeiations intelligible. But then his connection with Tippoo Tib
■witii becomes incomprehensible to me. Stanley seeks to
Tippoo Tib. ...
explain this connection on the ground that Tippoo Tib
was too dangerous, and therefore he could not leave him behind
as an enemy. But then Tippoo Tib was in Zanzibar in 1887,
and was brought to the Upper Congo by Stanley himself. Stanley
DR. PETERS' S CRITICISM OF STANLEY'S EXPEDITION. 547
knew Tippoo Tib as a faithless man. A man of that description
is not generally left to guard one's house, nor is it usual to give
any post of confidence to him.
But most incomprehensible of all appears to me the going
back to bring up the iron boat after the first arrival at Lake
Albert, which cost him four months, when he might have been
with Emin Pasha in fifteen days. Precisely from the point of
view of an African expedition, I cannot at all understand why
Stanley did not at least put himself into communication by
letter with Emin Pasha before he went back, and when he did
go back, why he did not at once try to put himself in touch
with his rear-guard. There appears in these movements indecision
of Stanleys, supposing him to be unable to give a proceed-^'' °
better reason for them than that cited in his book of ^"s^-
travels, a degree of indecision which I am at a loss to reconcile
with the general picture I have formed for myself of this man ;
partly, too, from personal acquaintance. Through these move-
ments the period of the expedition was lengthened out to three
years, which certainly increased the cost of the undertaking in
a disproportionate degree. The same rule holds good with
African travels as with every other thing, that they are most
complete when the greatest possible results are achieved with
the smallest possible means.
It is in this case as in solving mathematical problems — the
simplest and readiest way is certainly also the best one. Looked
at from this point of view, Stanley's undertaking ap- .^^^^^f^g.
pears to me like working an equation with totally s^"^°[^*^^
unnecessary circuitous ways and formulas. And what
was achieved in the end by this great expenditure in money
and men? The Equatorial Province is deserted; neither
Uganda nor Wadelai has been brought under the British
Protectorate ; and, on the other hand, Emin Pasha, who was
formerly a sincere friend of England, has been turned into an
equally sincere opponent— at least, of Stanley personally. That
is the final outcome of an undertaking which was announced as
calculated to serve the interests of civilisation and of Chris-
tianity in Central Africa, and, as certainly appears from
548 XEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
8tanle3' s third proposal, at least aimed at getting the territories
on the EJpper Nile included in the sphere of British influence.
Neither the ostensible nor the real object has been attained.
Effect on Even the Mahdi himself could not have been more
civilisation, injurious to the civilising of the Upper Nile than
Stanle}' has been in realit}-. But as regards the establishment
of the English in these countries, Stanley, by refusing the assist-
ance of JNIuanga, and by avoiding co-operation with Jackson's
expedition, has contributed to convert the sentiment in Uganda
into positive enmity to England. This matter Stanley may
settle with those who commissioned him. These facts must,
however, be kept in view, if a just estimate is to be formed of
the value of his last expedition.
It was not till I reached Mpuapua that I learned how it was
Stanley's undertaking that frustrated our own plans with regard
Effect in to the Equatorial Province. Emin Pasha has cor-
Dr! Peters^ roborated me in the assertion that even with the small
expedition, powers we possessed we might have materially assisted
him ; inasmuch as we should, as I have already stated, have
established for him communications with Uganda, and conse-
quently with the German East African colony. If Stanley had
stuck fast in the swamps of the Aruwimi, Emin Pasha would at
this day, according to all human calculation, be still in Wadelai
in a perfectly secure position. The whole territory in the north
of Lake Yictoria would be a firm buhvark, under Christian
influence, which in time could have been extended step by step
down the Nile against the Mahdi influence, whereas now the
Arab influence extends to the northern boundary of Uganda ;
and Uganda itself is torn by the confusion of the strife of
parties, and its development is hindered to an immeasurable
extent. Therefore it must be stated that Stanley's enterprise
has been absolutely hurtful in its eff'ects for the general interests
of humanity, and for the special interests of England.
It can be understood that observations such as these, which
we naturally made during our meeting in Mpuapua, were
always attended by painful feelings in Emin Pasha and in
myself; but we united in the resolution, even if much had been
EMIN PASHAS QUALITIES AXD CHARACTERISTICS. 549
lost, to hold fast to the idea of winning back in common what
had been lost, in one way or another. We entertained Hopes for
the hope of gaining for this object the sympathies not *^e*'it'ire-
only of the continental Powers, but, in the end, those of the
English Government likewise. In Mpuapua we were not yet
aware of the contents of the new arrangements between Germany
and England, which have materially delayed all these things in
the north of Lake Victoria.
Meanwhile, I had an opportunit}^, in the days we passed
together, of studying the purely human qualities of Emin
Pasha somewhat more closely, to note his truly German „.
thoroughness m the scientific labours he prosecuted of Emin
• Pasha
incessantly, and also the natural goodness of heart that
speaks out of his whole being. Often when we were talking of
the most important things, his bird shooter, who was always at
work, brought him a bird he had killed ; which Emin would
take in his hands with a kind of haste to examine accurately,
register it, and lay it aside for skinning. All his works, includ-
ing his journals of travel, showed the greatest closeness of
observation and accuracy of insertion. In this particular there
is certainly a decided difference between Emin Pasha and
Stanley. While, wherever the maps rested on Stanley's declara-
tions alone, I used, after a few trials, as, for instance, at Uweri-
weri, simply to put them aside, I should accept as authentic,
without trial, every particular to which Emin Pasha has put
his name. His provident, almost fatherly kindness of ^^.^
heart towards us showed itself in a series of instances amiable
1 • q.ualities.
that were really touching. Though we were hastening
to the coast, and he, on the other hand, was going for an
indefinite time into the interior, he would not rest until we
had accepted from him a number of presents, for the greater
comfort of our situation. Clothes, linen, perfumes, drinks, all
these things were literally pressed upon us, and always in a
very delicate manner, and with friendly smiles. Though his
saddle-horse had fallen, he was almost angry when for a long
time I protested against receiving one of his handsome Muskat
donkeys as a present. At the very last moment, when I took
550 ^.^EW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
leave of him, and was looking around for a stick for my donkey,
he forced his o-\vn riding-whip upon me, and to my remonstrance,
"But, your Excellency, then you will have none!" he replied,
" Oh, I shall manage, I shall find something."
For everything that, on the other hand, we were able to do
for him, his gratitude was simply heart-moving. I left with
„ ,., ^ him some scientific instruments, and also a few books.
Gratitude ' '
for small amoug Others a few volumes of Arthur Schopenhauer,
which seemed especially to please him.
In the few days of our intercourse I was not in a position
to form an opinion concerning Emin Pasha as a politician or
an organiser ; in that respect his deeds must speak for them-
selves. But to the man Emin Pasha both Herr von Tiedemann
and myself became sincerely attached, and M'e shall always
think upon him with grateful recollection. On those days of
Mpuapua rests a halo of pleasant heartiness, which always
arouses a wish once more in life to experience such hours
and days.
On the afternoon of June 21st we had our photographs
taken by Herr Janke, in front of Emin's tent, in a group, and
Photo- *^^^ Emin Pasha and myself separately. Our break-
grapMc ing up was fixed for the following day. We were
portr&its. . -
going to the east and to the coast, and Emm Pasha
wanted to commence his march upon Ugogo. Once more we
passed a pleasant evening together. Next morning at six o'clock
we were all in our camps, making ready for the march.
At half-past six the two expeditions started simultaneously,
with waving flags and drums beating, in opposite directions.
On the previous day I had been able to supply Emin Pasha
with twenty-seven porters from among my Wasukuma, a
circumstance of which he was glad, as a number of his porters
had run away on the coast. We, on the other hand, departed
from Mpuapua well provided with all kinds of eatables,
especially with bread and vegetables. The gentlemen remained
together half an hour longer ; then came the time for saying
good-bye. Herr von Tiedemann had received from Herr von
Bulow a riding ox as a present, and I mounted Emin Pasha's
NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN ROUTES TO BAGA3I0Y0. 551
white donkey. " Greetings to German}-, and greetings to Lake
Victoria, and may Ave soon meet again ! " — and then
there was a shaking of hands, and without many more from Emn
words I rode off after my column, that had gone on in ^^^^^'
advance, towards the east. At a turn of the way I looked
round again, and once more my eyes rested on the short,
peculiar figure of Emin Pasha. Hats are waved ; and behind
me, like a fair dream, Mpuapua and my experiences there
sink back together into memories of the past.
Over the further march to the coast I may pass lightly, for
the route from Mpuapua to Bagamoyo is well known. I
followed the southern road through Usagara. I confess that
I wanted to make the last part of my journey as easy to myself
as I could. There were no more perils to be encountered, and
I was anxious not to arrive in an exhausted state at the coast,
where the danger of attacks of fever is especially strong. The
northern way over Mamboyo is steeper, but a few The north-
days shorter ; the southern way is the easier and southern
pleasanter one. Every marching day was now, to a "^""^es.
certain extent, a holiday for us. Eating and drinking we had
in plenty ; and already in Tubugne, our first camping-place, I
received letters from the coast, informing me that seven more
loads of European dainties, notably sausages, preserves, and
champagne, had been sent up the country for us by our friends
in Zanzibar, and that we might expect every day to receive
them. Though they, in fact, only reached us seven days before
our arrival at the coast, the very expectation of them was an
enjoyment. So material does man become, when for many
months he has been restricted to the barest necessaries of life.
From our second camping-place, Mlale, I sent forward to
Zanzibar my last report for Europe, and a telegram, in which
I especially related the fight at Ugogo, and my meeting with
Emih Pasha.
At midday on June 25th, from the lofty plateau in the
north of the Mkondogna river, my eyes rested for the Arrival at
first time again with delight on glorious Usagara, and ^»*s*'*-
my heart was so stirred that tears came into my eyes, when I
,3.J2 yEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
thought that we had heen privileged, six years ago, to gain this
land for Germany. My thoughts wandered back to the hours
I had passed in the Mkondogna valley with my friend Jtihlke,
and of the world of adventures and emotions that lay for me
between the December days of 1884 and the July of 1890.
In slow and easy marches we now moved on, down the
charming Mkondogna valley, which again reminded me vividly
of the Rhine or the Neckar, as it had done six years ago.
On the 26th I marched past Mninin-Sagara. At all corners
the German flag was now waving, the people came out of the
gates, and persisted that they remembered me from my last
stay here, which, however, I did not believe. We encamped in
the same spots where my first expedition had pitched its tents.
TheArabsof On Juue 27th, when I entered Mkondogna, the Arabs
Mkondogna. j-gsident there prepared a solemn reception for us.
They came in a body to meet us, conducted us to the Barasa,
brought us fruit and milk, and when we had taken leave of the
first Arab, we had to go to a second, a certain Buana Sani, to
partake of a breakfast which the Catholic missionaries in
Loanga had sent down for us. Father Home, to whom I had,
from Kedar, sent tidings of our approach, sent some pupils of
the Mission before us to Mkondogna, who presented us with
a large bouquet, and brought us a hearty letter of welcome,
with an invitation. We were on no account to pass by Loanga
without partaking of the hospitality of the Mission.
On the afternoon of June 27th we therefore rode with
a few men to Loanga, where we found a warm welcome, and
stay at ^ quantity of news from Europe. I ha(Ve forgotten to
Loanga. remark that in Tubugne we had received our European
mail communications from the German Emin Pasha committee,
and letters from our dear ones at home, the reading and
re-reading of which gave these last days of the expedition
a peculiar charm.
June 28th, a Saturday, we spent agreeably in the pleasant
station of Loanga, which is built neatly and tastefully by the
Loanga brook on the slope of a mountain, from whence the
prospect opens on the mountains of Ukami. We spent hours
TRAVELLERS RELAX. i'f/nxs AXf) EXJOYMEXTS. 5.53
there in the shady verandali, tclliDii,- the narrative ot onr
UsAGARA Landscape.
expedition, or hearini^' ahont EuroiK', sittinii' over a olass of
chiret and water, hjoking out upon the ravishingly lieautiful
5.34 NEW LIGHT OX DARK AFRICA.
landscape. Father Home is a Germac, a Hessian, if I do not
mistake, and a solid and amiable man. On the 29th we stayed
to dinner at the Mission. I had just sent the order for starting
the expedition to Farhani, towards Koberens;a, when
Herr von ' . ""
Tiedemann Herr von Tiedemann was seized with an attack of
again. ^^^.^^. . ^^ j advised him to remain in Loanga till it had
passed over. I would wait for him in Mrogro, another mission
of the Catholics. I was obliged to march away, because the
expedition was already on the road. So I had now to make
four days' marches alone through the Mkata plain as far as
Mrogro. When I was encamped in Wiansi, a day's march short
of Mrogro, I heard that a German expedition was lying in the
neighbourhood. I sent Hussein with the announcement that I
Another was here in Wiansi ; and, in the evening, when I was
expedition, already in bed, Herr de la Fremoise, the chief of the
expedition, which was bound to Mpuapua, came galloping up
on horseback. He brought with him a bottle of champagne
and another of absinthe, and we remained together in animated
conversation until late in the night. Next morning we break-
fasted together in the open air, and then I marched onward to
Mrogro, crossing the Lugerengere. From this side the moun-
tain plateau of Ukami appears rising massively, and on its
slope lies Mrogro, the most beautiful of all the stations I met
with. This morning I received the seven loads of European
dainties, close to Mrogro, and, somewhat weakened in body, I
Short resolved to make a break of seven days in my journey,
holiday at here in beautiful Mrogro, so that I might get to the
coast in full health and strength, and, likewise, that we
might enjoy the good things in the packages, especially the
sausage and preserves, in all tranquillity of spirit. The value
we put upon these things was a very different one from our
estimation of them in Europe. We quite forgot that when
once we got back to Zanzibar or to Europe, we should pro-
bably be able to buy sausage and beans, carrots and cabbage,
every day.
In Mrogro, also, I found the heartiest M^elcome from Father
Karst and Brother Basilid, two Lorrainers, who speak German
MROGRO STATION ;— ENCAMPMENT IN PIGIRO. 555
quite fluently ; and in the plantations of this station, which have
quite a European appearance, I passed a quiet and reflective
week.
On July 5th Herr von Tiedemann arrived, safe and sound.
We had a really capital kitchen, to which Brother Basilid him-
self attends ; the coast was close before our eyes, and we also
found some new reading in the station, among other things some
European periodicals. I felt especial interest in the
coffee plantations of this place, which Brother Basilid Basiiid's
has laid, utilising in the work a rushing mountain ^ ^"^ * "°°'
stream. They not only supplied the' station itself, but also all
the remaining Catholic mission houses, with coffee, and Basilid
thinks they will very soon have a surplus for trading.
I should recommend anyone who proposes to establish
plantations in Eastern Africa, to betake himself to Mrogro for
awhile, to learn there. Mrogro is in reality a pattern for the
German East African territory.
On July 10th I at length started again, to accomplish the
remainder of the journey in long marches. I took with me
Herr Neuhaus, an hospital attendant from the Protect- March to
ing Corps, who had been left behind, sick of a fever, by B^&^^^oy"-
Emin Pasha, and whom I caused to be carried along with us to
the coast. We journeyed towards Bagamoyo by the well-known
route. We were in excellent health, and the expectation that
in a few days we should have left behind us all the toils and
dangers of this expedition, out of which, for months together,
we had had no hope to emerge alive, made every heart beat
high.
On July 15th I encamped in Pigiro, about two miles from
the ferry across the Rufu. I heard that a German official was
stationed here, and at once sent my servant Selek and the
Somali Mohammed Ismael to him, to announce our arrival.
They came back and reported that the white man was suffering
from fever to-day, but sent his greetings and some fowls.
Next morning early, we went on towards Mtone. The way
led through fresh grass, which was still damp from last night's
rain. After we had marched for an hour I saw the Rufu I
o.jfi XEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
knew !so well glimmering on the right. On the opposite bank I
noticed a very large shed and a European tent. I had a gun
The ferry fired, and immediately some boatmen appeared, and
atKufu. passed the ferry boat across to us by a chain; and
directly afterwards a white man came out in front of the tent.
I got into the boat with a few of my people, and when we were
in the middle of the river, the white man cried out, from the
opposite side, —
" Are you Herr Dr. Peters ? "
I answered, " Yes, certainly ; and who may you be ? "
" I am Bohndorf."
" I am exceedingly glad that you should be the first man I
meet here."
Herr Bohndorf welcomed me heartily. I had made his
acquaintance a year and a half previously in Egypt, and after-
wards I had seen him again in Bagamoyo. He led me
Bohndorfs into his tent and opened a bottle of champagne, which
had been sent there, he told me, for our arrival. Herr
von Tiedemann, who came in afterwards, found us already
engaged in animated conversation upon our expedition and the
occurrences on the coast. Unfortunately my travelling com-
panion was once more attacked by fever, so that he preferred to
rest for a few hours at Herr Bohndorfs, and I had to traverse
alone the short distance that still remained between us and
Bagamoyo. Herr Bohndorf told me the gentlemen had intended
to meet us at Mtoni, and I should probably find them on the
way there. So with a heart beating high with expectation, I
marched along the rest of the way, first through brushwood and
then through the plantations of cocoa palms which already
belong to Bagamoyo. Suddenly the place stood revealed before
us. To the right, along the cocoa palm grove, we marched, with
The German <^^^^^ beating. When we came in sight of the German
station at Station I Ordered my soldiers to fire three volleys.
Then the gates opened, and all the gentlemen came out
to us ; in front was Herr von Paerbrand, acting as deputy for
the chief of the station, who was absent at the time on an
expedition. I could hardly speak from joyful emotion, when I
NEWS OF POLITICAL TRANSACTIONS IN EUROPE. 557
greeted these gentlemen. M}- soldiers were quartered in out-
houses, and I was taken into the salon of the station. On the
way, Herr Paerbrand informed me of particulars of the arrange-
ment with England by which the gains achieved bv ^
T • 1 p T ^ "^ Important
our expedition north oi the first degree of south latitude news from
had been transferred to England, in return for which ""^'''
Germany received Heligoland ; that the Protectorate of Zanzi-
bar had further been given to England, in exchange for which
the German East African coast had been definitely ceded to
Germany.
I will pass in silence over the emotions these tidings excited
in me. I remained two hours in the salon to regain my com-
posure, and begged the gentlemen to say nothing more on the
whole subject. Here, in, the room, I found a great Despatches
number of telegrams from Europe, congratulating me *^°™ ^°^^-
on my return, and among these there were letters from my
relations and friends.
Telegrams of this kind I received from the German Emin
Pasha committee, from the German Colonial Company, from
Karl von der Heydt, from Wissmann, from various divisions of
the Colonial Company, from the German East African Com-
pany, and also from Fritz Krupp and other dear friends and
acquaintances.
When I had in some degree recovered from the perturbation
of mind into which I had been thrown by the tidings received,
and by reading these proofs of sympathy, Herr von Paerbrand
came in again to carry me oif to a banquet to which were
invited all the German gentlemen in Bagamoyo, among a genial
them the Austrian Consul from Bombay, a very amiable ^""^''•
and sympathetic gentleman, who was on a visit in Bagamoyo ;
besides my friends from the Mission, Father Etienne and Brother
Oskar, and all the officers and officials of the Protecting Corps
and of the German East African Company. Among others
appeared Herr von Sievers, the chief of the Maritime Division
of the Imperial Commissariat, who had come over with Herr
Domarsky from Zanzibar, in the most civil manner, to put the
Munchen at my disposal for my passage to Zanzibar.
558 yE]V LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA.
It was a most cordial gathering at that dinner, the wine
was not spared, and the general feeling was one of festivity.
In the afternoon came Herr von Tiedemann, who, to my
great satisfaction, was entirely cured, and was able to join us at
supper. As he was an old friend of Herr von Paerbrand, he
resolved to stay a lew days in Bagamoyo. We settled that M'e
would go together to Europe by the French mail line, and at
nine o'clock the next morning I took a hearty leave of all the
Crossing to gentlemen to cross to Zanzibar on the Munchen, of
Zanzibar, -vyhjch Herr von Sievers himself took command on that
day. I took the whole of my little caravan, which had now
shrunk to thirty-six men, across with me, and also the Austrian
Consul and Herr Domarsky. The Countess Blucher, the Presi-
dent of the Women's Union, was also on board, so that we had
an agreeable passage over to Zanzibar. — It was an ennobling
sight for me when the continent of Africa, on which I had been
employed exactly one year, one month, and one day in the
carrying out of the expedition, began to sink below the western
horizon. It seemed almost as if a great gulf were lying between
me and my former life in Europe. The year 1889-90 had been
so rich in emotions and impressions of every kind, that it
appeared to contain a space of many years, even of a lifetime.
I seemed to be quite a different man from the one who had
gone off in June 1889 from Bagamoyo to the south, to begin
the Emin Pasha Expedition. The continent of Africa disappeared
in a hazy twilight, and soon the island of Zanzibar arose before
us. Then I recognised all the old places which I had so often
visited in the year 1887. Presently the masts of the ships
became visible to us, then the houses and the flags of the
consulates. We passed close by the German men-of-war the
Carola and the Schwalbe, the gentlemen on board giving us a
friendly salute. The anchor was dropped, we stepped into the
boats, and soon we stood on dry land, on the well-known spot
next to Oswald's house. I immediately betook myself to the
German Imperial Commissariat, where the officer in charge
at that time, Captain Richelmann, welcomed me in the most
friendly manner, and invited me to join him at his dinner-table.
HOME BY STEAMER TO EUROPE. 559
Chance ordained that, living with Captain Richelmann and Herr
von Sievers, I found myself in the same house that „, ,,
• -, -, J. 1 , . . The old
I had occupied heiore the expedition started. But m quarters in
this domicile, too, I could hardly recognise myself for *"''^ ^^'
the same man, so deeply and emphatically had the impressions
of the year worked upon my inner life.
In Zanzibar I passed some happy days in the German
colony. As I received intelligence from Berlin which rendered
my speedy appearance there desirable, and as Lieutenant-
Captain von der Gr5ben, whose acquaintance I had made on
board the Schwalhe, informed me that the new English
steamers, which ran as far as Naples, were very comfortably
fitted up, I asked Consul-General Michahelles to put himself
in communication with the British Consul-General to procure
for me a guarantee for an unintercepted voyage home on one
of the steamers of the English line. But here, also, public
sentiment seemed to have undergone a change ; the English-
men met us in the most obliging way, and so, on the Tuesday,
on board the British steamer Madura, in the company of
Lieutenant-Captain von der Groben, I commenced my ^^ ^^ .
voyage home to Europe. Herr von Tiedemann pre- and Ger-
ferred, after all, making use of the French mail. On
August 9th I was in Naples; on the 15th I was greeted in
Milan, by Herr Oskar Borchert, in the name of the Emin
Pasha committee; on the 18th, at Wildbad, I was again on
German territory ; and on August 25th, in Juterbock, at the
Anhalt station, I was heartily welcomed home, after an absence
of exactly a year and a half, to the very day.
On the evening before my departure from Zanzibar, as I
was standing, after taking my walk, at the gate of the German
club, I had the pleasure of once more seeing Admiral a few
' ^ n 1 • j-T, words with
Fremantle. He was going past, towards the sea, witn Admiral
one of the British captains, when he caught sight of ^""'^''*^*-
me. He went a few steps further, then turned round, came
towards me, and said, —
" How do you do. Dr. Peters ? I must congratulate you on
the successful accomplishment of your expedition."
ado
X!:w Linirr nx dauk afiuca.
" "Many thanks."
"You have a iircat work licliind yon. It rcqnirefl nincli
ent'i;uy and cdurauc "
" Many thanks ; yes."
" Yon have i'ound many diflicnlliL's '' ""
"Especially (.»n the coast."
" Yes, I know."
APPENDIX.
SUPPLEMENT I.
THE GERMAN EMIN PASHA COMMITTEE.
AcKERMANN, Privy Court Councillor, Member of the Reichstag,
and of the Saxon Assembly of Estates, Dresden.
Aeendt, Dr., Member of the Executive Committee, Berlin
(Secretary).
Aknim, Muskau, .Count, Member of the Reichstag, Muskau.
Balan, Von, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive Com-
mittee, Schlawe.
Becker, Fritz, Dr., Worms.
Behr-Bandelikt, Count, Chamberlain of H.M. the Emperor,
Bandelin.
Belou, Von, Landed Proprietor, Major on retired list, Member
of the Executive Committee, Saleske.
Bennigsen, Von, Upper President, Member of the Reichstag,
Hanover.
BoKEMEYEE, Dr., General Secretary, Berlin.
BuECK, H., General Secretary, Berlin.
BussE, M., Dr., Mining Councillor, Dortmund.
Campe, Von H., Dr., Hanover.
Christophersen, Member of the Executive Committee, Schleswig.
Clausz, Manufacturer, Member of the Reichstag, and of the
Saxon Assembly of Estates, Chemnitz.
Cornelius, F., Member of the Council of the German Colonial
Company for South-west Africa, Berlin.
36
562 APPENDIX.
Cranach, Von, Government President, Hanover.
Crede, Dr., Court Councillor, Dresden.
Credner, Professor, Leipzig.
CuNY, Von, Privy Councillor of Justice, Member of the Reich-
stag, Member of the Executive Committee, Berlin.
Douglas, Count von. Member of the Executive Committee,
Aschersleben.
Drigalski, Von, Lieutenant-General, retired, Berlin.
DziEMDOwsKY, Vou, Member of the Executive Committee,
Schloss Meseritz.
Fabri, F., Dr. (theological), Godesberg.
Fabri, T., Dr., Hamburg.
Friedberg, Dr., Professor, Member of the Executive Committee,
Halle.
Friederichsen, L., Hamburg.
Gerlich, Dr., Land Councillor, Member of the Executive
Committee, Schwetz.
Grais, Hub de. Count, Privy Government Councillor, Member
of the Executive Committee, Berlin.
Grimm, Dr., Ministerial President, retired, Karlsruhe.
Grosse, Rudole, Dr., Strassburg in Elsass.
Grosz, Advocate, Pforzheim.
Guilleaume, Cologne.
GiJNTHER, F., Commercial Councillor, Dresden.
Hacke, Count von, Rear-Admiral, retired, Berlin.
Haniel, Dr., Land Councillor, Member of the Executive
Committee, Mors.
Hansen, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive Committee,
Tondern.
Hermann, Prince of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, Langenburg.
Herwig, Vice-President, Member of the Executive Committee,
Berlin.
Heszler, Government Architect, Erfurt.
Heydt, Carl von der. Banker, Elberfeld, Treasurer.
HoBRECHT, Actual Privy Councillor, Minister of State, retired
Member of the Reichstag, Berlin.
Hofmann, Von, Minister of State, Berlin, First Deputy President.
APPENDIX. 563
Irmer, Dr., Keeper of the Royal Archives, Hanover.
Jaekel, Land Director, Member of the Executive Committee,
Dantsic.
Kaapcke, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive Com-
mittee, East Prussia.
Kardorff, Von, Member of the Reichstag, Wabnitz.
Kennemann, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive
Committee, Klenka (Province of Posen).
Kreszmann, Major, retired, Karlsruhe.
Krupp, F. a.. Privy Councillor of Commerce, Essen.
Langen, Eugene, Privy Councillor of Commerce, Cologne.
Langekmann-Erlenkamp, Baron von. Member of the Executive
Committee, Lublin (Province of Posen).
LiNDEMAJSTN, M., Dr., Bremen.
LrvoNiiTs, Vice-Admiral, retired, Berlin.
Lucas, Assessor, retired. Director of the German East African
Company, Berlin.
Lucius, Privy Councillor of Commerce, Member of the Execu-
tive Committee, Erfurt.
LtJCKHOFE, Manufacturer, Member of the Executive Committee,
Silesia.
Maerckee, Lieutenant, Strassburg in Elsass.
Mehnert, Dr., President of the Agricultural Credit Union in
the Kingdom of Saxony, Member of the Reichstag, and
the Assembly of Estates, Dresden.
Meister, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive Com-
mittee, Sangeran by Thorn.
Minnigerode, Freiherr von, Member of the Executive Committee,
Rositten.
Mirbach-Sorquitten, Count von. Member of the Reichstag,
Sorquitten.
MtJHL, District Judge, Member of the Executive Committee,
Segeberg.
Nedden, Zur, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive
Committee, Marienberg.
Neubarth, Landed Proprietor, Member of the Executive
Committee, Wtinschendorf.
564 APPENDIX.
Netjbauer, F. a., Priv,y Councillor of Commerce, Magdeburg.
NiETiiAMMEK, Couiicillor of Commerce, Member of the Reichstag,
and of the Saxon Assembl)- of Estates, Krebsstein.
Oppenheim, Hugo, Banker, Berlin.
O'Satald, W., & Co., Hamburg.
Palesieux, Von, Major and Adjutant of H.R.H. the Grand
Duke of Saxe-Weimar.
Peters, Carl, Dr., Berlin, President.
Pilgrim, Von, Government President, Member of the Executive
Committee, Minden.
PoPELius, Member of the Executive Committee, Sulzbach.
RiTTER, Dr., General Director, Waldenburg in Silesia.
RoBDER, E. von. Chief Master of Ceremonies, Berlin.
RoHLFS, Gerhard, Consul-General, Weimar.
RuMPFi, Manufacturer, Member of the Executive Committee,
Schloss Aprath (Rhine Province).
Sachse, Director in Imperial Post Office, Berlin.
ScHAEFFER, G., Member of the Executive Committee, Gorlitz.
Schmidt, Member of the Executive Committee, Sangerhausen.
ScHREiBER, Member of the Executive Committee, Wolkrams-
hausen.
ScHROEDER, Dr., Landed Proprietor, Poggelow, Second Deputy
President.
ScHUXTZ-LupiTZ, Member of the Executive Committee, Member
of the Reichstag in Lupitz (Province of Saxony).
ScHV^ARTZKOPF, Von, Member of the Executive Committee,
Neustadt in Hanover.
ScHVFEiNFURTH, Dr., Professor, Berlin.
Simon, Privy Councillor of Government, retired, Berlin.
Solms-Braunfbls, Hermann, Prince of.
Steinrijck, Von, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive
Committee, Member of the Eeichstag, Seclow.
Stengel, Member of the Executive Committee, Stassfurt.
Steun, Von, Major, retired, Berlin.
Teichmann-Logischen, Von, Lieutenant-General, Berlin.
Tiedemann, E. von. Member of the Executive Committee,
Bomst.
APPENnLY.
565
TiEDEMANX, Von, Govenimeut Pri'sidt'iit, Crombera;.
TRAiiM, Member of the Executive Committee, Hauover.
Truppel, G., Riidolstadt.
TucHER, Freiherr von, Government Coimcillor, Nilrnbero-.
Uechtritz-Steinkirch, Von, Councillor of the Kummerf,^ericht,
Member of the Executive Committee, Berlin.
Ulbich, J., Member of the Reichstao-, Pfreu^■stadt.
Wagner, J., Teacher at High Scliool, Berlin.
Wessel, Land Councillor, Member of the Executive Committee,
Stuhm.
Wettich, Town Representative, ^Member of the Executive
Committee, Havelberg.
WiBEL, Dr., Wiesbaden.
Wied, W., Prince of, Neuwied.
WissMANN, First Lieutenant, retired, Berlin.
WiTTENBRiNCK, Higli School Teacher, Bur^steinfurt.
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566 APPENDIX.
SUPPLEMENT II.
RELATIONS WITH ADMIRAL FREUANTLE AND THE BRITISH
BLOCKADE.
" To THE Executive Committee of the German
Emin Pasha Committee.
" I have the honour very respectfully to report the following
concerning my conference with Rear- Admiral Fremantle, which
has just taken place.
" It lasted about three-quarters of an hour, and was in a high
degree interesting.
" Admiral Fremantle was engaged on the quarter-deck. He
immediately received me, and conducted me to his saloon.
" I introduced the subject of the prohibition that forbade me
to visit any of the English places, and my Neoera to run in at
any of them. To this Admiral Fremantle replied, in the first
place, with some lengthy observations. My past doings in
Eastern Africa, he said, must naturally awaken the suspicions
of the English. I had come here, into their territory, and had
everywhere hoisted the German flag. He had been suspicious
of me before I came here. My behaviour here had greatly
strengthened his suspicions. No one knew what my real inten-
tions were. I had visited neither him nor the English Consul-
General ; here and there I had looked about me on the coast.
Rightly or wrongly, he felt fully convinced that I had again
political objects in the background. And these aims he would
oppose. He was an Englishman, and no one could blame him
for doing so. If, indeed, I were protected by my own Govern-
ment, he could put no obstacle in my way. I ought to report
to Berlin. So long as my Government did nothing for me,
nobody could blame him if he tried to frustrate my endeavours.
APPENDIX. 567
He would readily admit that the blockade was a welcome
implement to him, for this end. And he intended to use it.
If this was ' unpleasant ' for me, I must at least allow that he
met me openly. I replied, his good will was not the point in
question, 'but,' I said, 'I onl}' want my right. You must your-
self know how far you can justify such measures against me.
It is plain that ultimately they will have to be adjudicated
upon in another place.' I would have visited him before, but
it had several times happened that he was absent when I was
in Zanzibar. So far as my objects were concerned, they were
expressed in the aim of my expedition. I wished to carry help
to Emin Pasha. As regarded the attitude of the German
Government, I was not entitled to express an opinion why it took
up this or that position ; at any rate, both our Emperor and the
Imperial Chancellor had assured us of their sympathy, and I
also believed that we possessed the sympathy of our nation.
" Admiral Fremantle said, that so far as regarded his right,
there existed a state of war. That I was, or at least appeared
to be, dangerous to the peace of Africa. That when, a short
time ago. Sir John Kirk had been here, entirely on private
affairs, the Germans had shown themselves to be disquieted, and
that Sir John had been obliged, after three days, to take his
departure. Now, he had personally a very high esteem for Sir
John Kirk. Therefore I should receive more justice than Sir
John Kirk. I was, for the English, exactly what Sir John
Kirk was for the Germans. If Deinhard declared that he did
not want to have Sir John Kirk in Saadani, he could do nothing
against it ; and the English did not want to have me in any of
their places. Besides, there were such things as telegraphs. I
had better complain of him ; an order to him from London
would alter the situation for him.
" I replied that I did not think he was justified in the
measures he was taking, for a state of war did not actually
prevail ; and for the blockade there were definite normal bounds,
which I did not intend to overstep. I should leave it to the
public opinion of Europe to form a judgment on the attitude
he was maintaining. Beyond this, I was especially anxious to
568 APPEXD/X.
know accuratel}', to what extent I had to calculate upon his
opposition. ' What are the places you blockade ? ' Admiral
Fremantle replied, ' The places from Lamu to Umba.' I said,
' Then outside these I have not to anticipate your enmity ? '
He answered, after a short hesitation, ' Outside these places I
shall not interfere with you.' I said^ ' Very well ; I now know
what I have to expect, and you may be sure that it is not my
intention to interfere with the sphere of British blockade.'
" I then brought forward the subject of my wish with respect
to the delivering up of the hunting weapons ; the German
authorities had, as I reported to the Committee yesterday, de-
clined to mediate for me in this matter. Admiral Fremantle
explained to me, in the first instance, that for his part he
had never had any other idea than that there was a ' mis-
understanding ' in this matter. He had also said to his
superiors, that I might have sent the weapons by Wissmann's
steamer, so that I had given no cause of complaint. He would
send my hunting weapons to me, on board the Necera, and only
requested me to give him a receipt for them.
" During our interview, an impression had evidently come
upon the old gentleman, that this attitude towards a single man
was not, after all, a very brilliant one, and it was manifestly
agreeable to him to do me this favour.
" In conclusion, I asked him whether I might, if necessary,
send the Necera to Lamu. He replied, ' Well, if no arms are on
board, and ' (with a smile) ' if you yourself don't go.'
" I have to apologise if this short extract from our conver-
sation should be found incorrect, here and there, with respect to
st3de. I have been anxious to give the decisive declarations as
literally as possible.
" I believe this report may be of use, in case of necessity,
in characterising the condition of things here, and beg to
refer this, with all respect, to the judgment of the honourable
Committee.
" With much respect,
(Signed) " Cael Peters."
APPENDIX. 569
" To Captain Cakdale,
" Commander of H.B.M.S. Agamemnon, Zanzibar.
" Sir, — When I had the honour to call upon you this
morning, you kindly informed me that you had orders not to
allow my person to land at any place within the sphere of
British blockade ; neither should my steamer he entitled to
call at any port or place blockaded by the British fleet.
"As it is absolutely necessary that I should have a personal
interview with the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral Fre-
mantle, and as I have hardly time to wait till next Thursday,
I kindly beg of you either to give me passage on hoard one
of H.B.M. ships that is going to Mombassa within the next
days, or to give a pass for my steamer Necera, on board of
which I then will go to Mombassa. As this demand is in
entire conformity with the conditions of the blockade, I trust
that you will kindly a^ree to it.
" Your immediate answer will greatly oblige
" Yours very respectfully,
(Signed) "Carl Peters.
" On hoard S.S. ' Necera.' "
" To Dr. Carl Peters,
" British S.S. Nemra.
" H.M.S. ' Agamemnon,' Zanzibak, 3Ia>/ 27th, 1889.
" Sir, — I regret to inform you that it is not in my power
either to give you a pass to Mombassa, or to grant you a
passage in H.M. ship proceeding to that port.
"The Rear-Admiral Commander-in-Chief will arrive at
Zanzibar at daylight on Thursday next, when you will have
no difficulty in seeing him.
" I am. Sir, your obedient Servant,
" C. S. Cardale,
" Captain and Senior Officer. '
570 APPENDIX.
"Bagam-OYO, June 9tk, 1889.
" Your Excellency, — I have the honour kindly to inform
Your Excellency that I shall most likely have to send the
Necera to Lamu.
" According to the promise kindly given by Your Excellency
to me, that you will raise no objections to my doing so, in case
there are neither arms, nor war ammunitions, nor my own person
on board, I kindly beg from Your Excellency to instruct the
commander of H.M.S. at Lamu of my intention.
" I probably shall send to Lamu either Herr Borchert or Herr
Friedenthal, or both, and this will be about from the 25th to
the 30th of June.
" With the expression of my sincere respect,
"I remain
" Your Excellency's most obedient Servant,
(Signed) " Carl Peters."
"'BoADiCEA,' AT Zanzibak, June Wth, 1889.
" Sir, — I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of
your letter of the 9th inst., informing me of your intention to
send the Necera to Lamu, but that in accordance with what I
mentioned in our recent interview you would not go yourself,
and no arms or ammunition would be on board the ship.
" Under the above circumstances I shall not object to the
Newra going to Lamu, and I will give instructions to our
blockading ship accordingly ; but her proceedings there will be
watched, and I shall direct that she is ordered to quit the port
if anything whatever is being done or suspected which would
at all be liable to create disturbance or injure the British
Imperial East African Company.
" It would tend to remove suspicion if you were to make a
candid statement of the object for which the Necera is required
to go to Lamu.
" I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient Servant,
( Signed ) ' ' Fremantle,
" Rear- Admiral Comniander-in-Ghief.
APPENDIX. 571
"To OSKAE BOECHERT, EsQ.,
"Member of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, Lamu.
" Lamu, June 2lst, 1889.
"Sir, — I have the honour to inform you that I have re
ceived orders from Arbuthnot, commander of H.M.S. Mariner,
to prevent the S.S. Necera from landing the cargo consigned to
the German Emin Pasha Expedition in Lamu.
"I further have to state that I have examined every
package, and hereby certify that I have found neither arms
nor ammunition nor powder amongst them.
" I have the honour to be. Sir,
(Signed) "D.R.Roberts,
" Seaman, H.M.S. ' Mariner.' "
" H.M.S. 'Mariner,' at Lamu,
" 22nd June, 1889.
" Sir, — Acting under orders from the Naval Commander-
in-Chief in these waters, and in consideration of the existing
blockade of this part of the coast of Africa, I have to inform
you that [the stores at present on board your ship for Dr. Carl
Peters cannot be landed at this place, or at any other part
within or adjacent to that part of the coast which is at present
under blockade. Those stores, now in a lighter alongside your
ship, must be taken on board again, and you are to quit the
port as soon as this is accomplished. I shall send an officer
and an armed party on board to support you in carrying out this
order. The officer will accompany you to Zanzibar, in order to
see that the stores are not landed in any other port on this
part of the coast. His passage to that place will be taken and
paid for.
(Signed) " Charles R. Arbuthnot,
" Commander."
572 APPENDIX.
" WiTU, 2Wi June, 1889.
" Your Excellency, — It is with the greatest surprise that I
learn Your Excellency has given orders to seize the Necera at
Lamu, and prohibit her to discharge her cargo at this place.
Your Excellenc)', I am sure, will understand my surprise, as
you will remember our arrangement made at Zanzibar on May
31st. Your Excellency declared my calling at any place under
British blockade objectionable, but promised not to interfere
with me outside the line of this blockade. When I asked Your
Excellency what you meant by ports and places under British
blockade, you answered clearly and distinctly that this meant
the coast between Lamu and the mouth of the Umba River.
The official declaration limits the blockade between 2° 10' and
10° 27' southern latitude. Therefore, complying with your
demand, I took the trouble to land the goods of the German
Emin Pasha Expedition at Kwaihu Bay, about 2° 5' southern
latitude, therefore ' outside the line of blockade.' You further
promised me not to interfere with the Necera, should she call at
Lamu, if neither men nor arms and war ammunition were on
board. Now the Necera, trusting to your promise, called at
Lamu without me and war ammunitions of any kind. In spite
of the promise given by Your Excellency to me at Zanzibar on
May 31st, you have given orders to seize her by force, in con-
tradiction to international law, and in conflict with the terms
laid down in the declaration of blockade.
" I shall leave it to the public opinion to judge about this
conduct, and I have taken steps to have this letter published in
Europe.
" But I may take the liberty to inform Your Excellency that
I had transferred the Necera to Herr Oskar Borchert already on
t he 1 5th day of this month at Kwaihu Bay, and that I consigned
the merchandise on her to Herr Toeppen on the 19th day of this
month at Shimbye. For these goods, representing merchandise
to be used on the Pangani route, were not of essential value to
me while marching north of the Tana river, and therefore I sent
APPENDIX.
573
them to Lamn instead of landing them at Kwaihii. I expect
that Herr Oskar Borchert as well as Herr Toeppen will claim
damages from Your Excellency h)' legal proceedings for the
losses they incurred through your orders, which you will have
to answer for.
" I have the honour to he,
" Your Excellency's most obedient Servant,
(Signed) " Carl Petees.
" To his Excellency the Piear-Admii-al and Commander-in-
Cliief, Feemantle, on boai-d H.IM.S. Iloadicea."
-j74: appendix.
SUPPLEMENT III.
TES "JSTECEKA" LAWSUIT.
THE English steamer Neoera was chartered in April 1889,
through the instrumentality of the Indian merchant
Sewa Hadji, by Dr. Carl Peters for a period of six months, at
the stipulated price of 6,500 rupees per month, for the German
Emin Pasha Expedition. After the landing, which took place
in Kwaihu Bay on June 15th (outside the blockaded region on
the coast), the articles required by the expedition, especially
arms, munitions, wares, etc., were landed. There remained on
board about one hundred cases of various articles which were
not immediately required for the expedition. According to the
arrangements made by Dr. Peters, these goods were to be sold
in Lamu or Zanzibar, and in their stead articles of barter were
to be provided, which were to be sent after the expedition. To
this end. Dr. Peters consigned the goods left on board to the
representative of the German Witu Company, Herr Curt Toeppen,
in Lamu ; while the charter was transferred on June 15th to
Herr 0. Bor chert, member of the German Emin Pasha Expe-
dition. Herr Borchert arrived with the ship at Lamu on
June 18th. There eighty-seven cases were put on board a
dhow, after they had been opened and not objected to by the
English naval officer who carried out the blockade service in
Lamu. This officer, in a letter to Herr Borchert, dated June
21st,* especially acknowledged that he had found in the cases
neither arms, nor powder, nor ammunition of any kind. Never-
theless he informed Herr Borchert, in the same letter, that he
had received orders from Mr. Arbuthnot, the commander of the
English ship of war Mariner, to prevent the landing of the
goods in Lamu. A letter from Mr. Charles R. Arbuthnot,
* See Supplement II., p. 571.
APPENDIX. 575
dated June 22nd,* confirmed this order, with the addition that
the goods already transhipped to the dhow were to be put back
on board the Necera, and that the latter was to quit the harbour
of Lamu immediately. The captain of the Necera was com-
pelled to obey this order, and to proceed to Zanzibar, accom-
panied by an English officer.
In Zanzibar the cargo of the ship was again inspected. A
case was now found which contained, among other parapher-
nalia, a few leather belts and bags, besides a number of knives,
or hunting knives, and a small quantity of sounding lead.
Hereupon proceedings were taken in the English Prize Court in
Zanzibar. There appeared as plaintiffs, demanding the release
of the ship : ( 1 ) The proprietors of the Necera (the English
firm Messrs. Shepherd & Co.) ; (2) Sewa Hadji and 0.
Borchert as charterers; (3) Herr Toeppen as consignee of the
goods. The judge had to decide whether the ship had been
rightfully seized for breaking the blockade, and the decision
turned upon the question whether the articles above described
(leather belts, bags, etc.) were to be looked upon as materials
of war. On this question English as well as German witnesses
and experts were heard. The Englishmen (especially Captain
Cardale of the man-of-war Agamemnon, and General Matthews,
commander of the troops of the Sultan of Zanzibar) answered
the question in the affirmative, while on the German side
(especially by Imperial Commissary Wissmann) the opinion
was maintained that we had here to do with articles the
importation of which was in no way forbidden by the decrees
and orders for the blockade. The judge took the latter view.
The decision was given, to that effect, on August 5th, 1889.
Though it was favourable as to the main issue, inasmuch as
an order was made for the release of the ship, the judge not
only refused the claim for damages set up by the plaintiffs,
but also condemned the owners of the ship in the costs of the
suit. At the conclusion of his plaint, Herr Borchert had not
only asked for the release of the ship and her cargo, but had
* See Supplement II., p. 571.
576 APPENDIX.
sought to make the authors of the seizure of the vessel responsi-
ble for all damages he had suffered by that proceeding.
The question accordingly arose, whether, in view of this
last decree, an appeal should be lodged against the decision
of the Prize Court, that had been favourable on the chief point.
This question was urged upon the German Emin Pasha com-
mittee also by the Foreign Office of the German Empire.
The executive committee of the above-mentioned associa-
tion had applied to the Foreign Office with a complaint
concerning the hostile measures of the English authorities
(preventing the Somalis from landing in Lamu, confiscation
of the weapons in Zanzibar, prohibition to Dr. Carl Peters and
to the Newra to land within the English line of blockade,
seizure of the Neoera), and put forward claims for damages.
The Foreign Office, after receiving the report of the Consul-
General in Zanzibar, did not, indeed, acknowledge the complaint
in all its bearings, but allowed it to be well founded in respect
to certain points. With regard to the affair of the Necera, it
was proposed to the executive committee that the judgment
of the Prize Court should be appealed against to the Privy
Council in London, as the English Government could only be
moved to give an indemnity in case of the " unconditional
acquittal " of the ship. Thereupon enquiries were instituted
on the part of the committee in London, in the proper quarter,
with respect to the cost and the probable issue of an appeal.
The answer was that the proceedings in London would involve
an expense which would go beyond the means of the committee,
and that the issue appeared doubtful ; possibly, the appeal
might lead to a reversal of the favourable verdict obtained on
the chief point — the release of the ship. The German Emin
Pasha Committee accordingly resolved to refrain from lodging
the appeal. This resolve was communicated to the Foreign
Office, with the reasons that had led to it. At the same time
the claim for damages on account of the seizure of the Neoera,
which the Prize Court had pronounced unjustified, and also for
the other measures adopted on the side of the English against
the expedition, was maintained. Respecting one portion of
APPENDIX. 577
these claims the Foreign Office had entered into negotiations
with the English Government. The provisional German-
English agreement of June 17th, 1890, among various yet
unsettled points in dispute, which were reserved for further
friendly consideration, after it had been declared that there
were in principle no serious differences of opinion upon them,
had included the "claim respecting the detention of the
steamer Necera." The definitive agreement of July 1st brought
no decision on this point. To the questions, whether there
was still a future prospect that the claims raised for compensa-
tion for the illegal treatment of the German Emin Pasha
Expedition by the English navy would receive any kind of
acknowledgment and satisfaction, or whether all prospect of
receiving such compensation must be abandoned, the German
Emin Pasha Committee finally received from the Colonial depart-
ment of the Foreign Office the answer that compensation for
the seizure of the Necera by the English Government was not
to be expected. Apart from the occurrences that had accom-
panied the commencement of the expedition, the foundation on
which such claims could have been enforced in a diplomatic
manner had been taken away from the Imperial Government,
by the fact that the committee had not adopted the available
means for appealing against the judgment of the Prize Court.
In the report of the English negotiator Anderson on the deci-
sion of July 1st, a report which was laid, together with the decision,
before the English Parliament, the following passage occurs : —
" Certain points of difference were specially reserved for
negotiation between Dr. Krauel and myself.
" The first of these related to claims of German subjects
connected with the capture of the Necera in Lamu harbour by
the British blockading squadron, and her condemnation (.f*) by
the Zanzibar Prize Court, and to further claims on account of
the alleged refusal of the British blockading squadron to permit
the landing at Lamu of some Somali porters engaged for the
■expedition of Dr. Peters into the interior.
" / have been alle to give satisfactory explanations on loth
points, and the claims have been withdrawn."
37
APPENDIX.
SUPPLEMENT IV.
THE FATE OF THE SECOND COLUMN.
IN my narrative of the occurrences of Oda-Boru-Ruva, I
described in what a painful position I was placed by the
non-arrival of all intelligence respecting the second column.
At the time I could not at all explain this to myself. It was
only afterwards, in Zanzibar and in Europe, that I learned that
Lieutenant-Captain Rust had pushed forward beyond Massa to
V unite with me, that he had landed a number of articles in the
steppe forest, under the care of a Somali, and had then gone back
to bring up the rest. Lieutenant-Captain Rust had afterwards
lost the greater part of his loads in Kena Kombe by an explo-
sion of the powder chests, had afterwards fallen seriously ill,
and had returned to Europe. Some messengers whom he
despatched to me appear to have been killed. As Lieutenant-
Captain Rust has already made public his adventures in a book
of his own, " The German Emin Pasha Expedition," which was
published by F. Luckhard of Berlin, I may here content myself
with referring the curious to his detailed account.
I shall, accordingly, only subjoin here a short account by
Oskar Borchert, which will suffice for the continuity of this,
narrative. Herr Borchert intends also to describe and publish
his experiences in detail, and his descriptions may be looked
forward to with interest. From the following report, it is mani-
fest that he set about his task with determination and energy,
and that it was not his fault that he did not reach my column.
The attempt of Oskar Borchert to overtake us, his march for
this object, with a disproportionately small equipment, up the
Tana, is in itself an achievement which, indeed, only stands in
indirect connection with our expedition, but nevertheless gives
Herr Borchert a claim to my acknowledgments, and the approval
APPENDIX. 519
of the parties interested in Germany. For services must not
always be estimated only according to the material results. He
who does honour to the German name by the fulfilment of duty,
and by courage, serves his nation too, though the effects of such
conduct cannot be estimated in figures. This is what Herr
Oskar Borchert has done by his march beyond Oda-Boru-Ruva.
And now I think it best to let him speak for himself.
Cakl Peters.
"To THE Leader of the German Emin Pasha Expedition,
Herr Dr. Carl Peters.
" Herewith I transmit to you. Sir, a brief report of my
proceedings in connection with the German Emin Pasha Expe-
dition. I begin my narrative from the period of our parting in
Mbaya, on June 16th, 1889.
" After we had, on the day before, run into the Kwaihu Bay
with the steamer Neoera, and from thence had happily accom-
plished the landing of the expedition, I received from you the
command of the steamer, with directions to take the articles of
barter from Kwaihu Bay to Lamu, to unload them there, to
act re steamer Neoera, and then to betake myself, with the
articles of barter that could be transported on the camels that
were in Lamu, into the Sultanate of Witu, and there to rejoin
your column that you had led thither in the meantime.
" After an exceedingly troublesome passage of three days,
against the tide and monsoon, we came in sight of Lamu. But
the Necera had sustained great damage from storm and waves ;
and the storm, foretold by the captain, came on before we were
able to run into the sheltering harbour. Parts of the engine
were broken ; the ship, without a rudder, at the mercy of the
stormy sea, got off its course into the raging breakers, the wav^s
tore away the companion ladder leading to the after deck, there
was a foot of water in the saloon, and the captain prepared me
for the worst. After many fruitless efforts, we at length suc-
ceeded, in this dangerous position, in throwing out the sheet
anchor, a difficult thing to do in the situation in which we were.
.180 APPENDIX.
After temporaril)' repairing the ship, I was able, with the help
of a pilot, who had nieaDwhile come aboard at my signal, to
run into the harbour of Lamu.
" The occurrences here, — that is to say, the uncalled-for con-
fiscation of our articles of barter and the unjust seizure of the
Necera on the part of the English Admiral, Fremantle, — I have
already had the honour of reporting to you in detail, in the
camp at Hindi. In Hindi I received the order to betake my-
self to Zanzibar, and there, by resorting to law proct^edings, to
procure the restoration of the Necera. It was only by chance
that I succeeded in reaching Zanzibar from Lamu in a steamer
of the Sultan line. I now entered an action against the
English naval authorities, the captors of our steamer, and
addressed a memorial to His Highness the Imperial Chancellor,
Prince Bismarck, informed the executive branch of the German
Emin Pasha committee of my proceedings by means of a tele-
gram, and with the help of an Indian advocate carried through
the so-called Necera lawsuit, which in its details was inter-
esting. I won it. The Necera with her whole cargo was given
up to me ; but by the seizure our expedition had incurred
an expense of 54,000 rupees, and in a report transmitted to
Berlin I put it to the executive branch of the German Emin
Pasha Expedition to decide whether they would appeal against
the decision, and institute a separate lawsuit for damages. I
transferred the charter of the liberated Necera to Captain Wiss-
mann, with the stipulation that he must send me to Lamu in
one of his steamers. On September 4th I was at length able
to start in the Harmony for Lamu.
" There I received the news that you. Sir, had already in
July started from Witu for Ngoa on the Tana ; according to
the instructions left behind for me, I was to follow you to Kitui
on the Kenia. I was obliged in Kenia to bring an expedition
of my own together for myself, so far as I could manage it ;
and I left there on September 12th. Arrived at Witu, I esta-
blished friendly relations with the Sultan Tumo Bakari, and
from thence led the expedition to Ngoa, to wait there for the
remainder of my articles of barter, which I wished to have
APPENDIX. 581
brought by the maritime route by dhow, through Herr Schlunke,
whom I had engaged as far as the mouth of the Tana, to be
transported from thence up the Tana as far as Ngoa. After I
had waited for some time in vain for Herr Schlunke in Ngoa,
there arrived one day from him the bad tidings that the dhow
had got on to a sandbank at the Osi mouth and had capsized,
whereby many things had been lost, and asking me to come
to assist with my people in saving the rest. Just as I was about
to start, I received news which had very extensively disagree-
able consequences for me, and overthrew all my plans. Lieuten-
ant-Captain Rust sent me information from Kena Kombe, a
place situate on the Tana, about six days' march above Ngoa, to
which place he had meanwhile brought the articles of barter
intended for you, that he had lost the greater part of the things,
such as guns, ammunition, etc., by a fire, and asking me to help
and endeavour to make up the loss of the articles. As I heard
at the same time from Lieutenant-Captain Rust that you were
going to wait on the Upper Tana for the arrival of the articles
of barter, I wrote to Lieutenant-Captain Rust that I would try
to parry the blow, and that he should go to you as quickly as
possible with the portion of the things that had escaped. With
a heavy heart I had now to retrace my steps for the second time.
" I proceeded with my column through the Belodsomi canal
over Kan to Kipini, where with the help of Herr Schlunke I
raised the wrecked dhow ; then went on through German Witu
land over Mpekotoni to Lamu, made up, by new purchases, for
the things that had been burnt, and marched over Mkonumbi to
Witu. Here I found news from Berlin, telling how in Germany
it was believed the whole expedition had been ruined, and that
you yourself had been murdered ; and I also received a letter
from the Imperial Commissariat in Zanzibar, wherein was
announced the return of Emin with Stanley. These were truly
tidings which disturbed me most profoundly. The foremost
thing to do was to make certain as to the fate of the first
column.
" On the same day, by a forced ride, I reached Ngoa on the
Tana, just as a messenger, Amiri, arrived from Oda-Boru-Ruva,
582 APPENDIX.
with letters from you, from which I could see that at the time
when you were being mourned in Germany as a murdered man
you were safe and sound with your column in Oda-Boru-Ruva.
I therefore at once sent a despatch to Germany, to quiet the
public mind there, in which despatch I stated that it was not
the German expedition but an English one that had been
destroyed by the Somalis ; that you with your column, as well
as Lieutenant von Tiedemann, were in good health, on the
Upper Tana.
"The news of the return of Stanley and Emin Pasha to
the coast was officially announced to me by the Imperial Com-
missariat; I could no longer doubt it, and was obliged to try and
reach you, however small the prospect appeared of my doing so.
For some time after I had sent off the despatches to Germany,
new rumours were always springing up on the Tana, describing
the expedition as having perished, which I certainly did not
believe, but which startled me by their continual recurrence.
The rumour said that your column had been completely de-
stroyed in a fight with the Borani Gallas, and I was enabled
to ascertain that nearly all the Gallas who were fit for war,
and who lived scattered along the Lower Tana, had gone to
Oda-Boru-Ruva. My duty bade me go forward to ascertain
the truth.
" A few days after my departure two of Rust's Somalis over-
took me, bringing a mournful message. Rust, whom I supposed
to have joined your column long before, was lying sick, they
said, in Mnina, in my immediate neighbourhood, and they
asked me to come quickly to his rescue, or else he would die,
for he had not been able to reach Oda-Boru-Ruva, but had
been obliged to turn back, because of his illness. A few forced
marches brought me to Rust, and I had the great satisfaction
of keeping him alive by my appearance. The situation in
which I found him was the most helpless and saddest that can
be imagined. I brought Rust by the water route to Kulessa,
my last camping-place, and the next morning I had him rowed
by a few trustworthy Wapokomo to Ngoa, where he could
receive hospitality and every care at the hands of the benevolent.
APPENDIX. . 583
helpful missionaries. I was told, later on, that Rust had gone
to Lamu, and from thence intended to proceed to Europe, by
ship, by the first opportunity that offered. I had been pre-
pared, by the accounts given by Lieutenant-Captain Rust, to
expect all kinds of difficulties and hindrances ; but I may be
permitted to say here, that during my march the reality far
exceeded all expectation, and my little column, in which I was
the only white man, and which at last shrank to six porters,
two soldiers, and a few servants, was several times nearly being
destroyed altogether. Especially it was the want of water and
of guides that brought us into terrible situations. Luckily I
was able to support my troop through killing game, which now
in the dry season was to be found in great quantities by the
Tana. Thus I also had some highly-interesting hunting
experiences on my journey. I have further to report, that
during my onward march I chose, as a rule, the left-hand Tana
territory, which, unexplored as yet, was traversed during the
time of my journey by the predaceous tribe of the Kawalalla
Somalis, with their great herds of cattle. After many ex-
periences of the most varied description, I reached the Galla
Sultanate of Oda-Boru-Ruva. The Qallas, from the first, took
up a hostile position towards me.
" Great was my joy when, after long searching in vain, and
after using an elephant track leading from the steppe to the
river, I found the Von der Heydt House, the station erected
by you.
" The building stood silent and deserted ; but it was a doubly
welcome sight to me to see the black, white, and red flag, planted
before the station, waving merrily in the wind.
"As I did not find any direct communication from you
there, I sought to obtain, from the Wapokomo and Gallas, upon
foraging expeditions which I undertook, authentic information
on the fate of your column ; and from the concurrence of the
reports I received, I was able to ascertain as certain that the
column had not been destroyed, but had marched away in good
health and condition from Oda-Boru-Ruva towards Lake Baringo.
There was one Galla especially, Parisa by name, who imparted
584 APPENDIX.
to me the details of your fight with the Gallas, in which Sultan
Hugo lost his life. I now also ascertained definitely that you
had marched away with the column as long as six or eight weeks
before, and that there was no chance of my overtaking you.
Still, I would not j^et turn hack ; I was anxious to get as far as
the mountain chains that could be descried from the Von der
Heydt House. After six days of strenuous marching, I reached
the mountain region through which the Tana forces its way.
For a day and a half I traversed that district. The furthest
13lace I reached was called Garebantai.
" My march back led me again to Oda-Boru-Ruva. In the
meantime a number of Gallas had banded themselves together
here, and during a two days' rest I took they twice tried to
surprise me, but each time they were driven off" by volleys of
musketry. When I began my retreat, my situation was an
unfavourable one. Already on my arrival at Oda-Boru-Ruva I
had no articles of barter left, my ammunition was decreasing at
a serious .rate, and some of my people, footsore and enfeebled,
entirely gave in.
" I now chose for my march the region on the right bank of
the Tana, to get acquainted with this part likewise. Though I
had to contend with difficulties of various kinds, and myself fell
ill at last through want of water and proper provisions, I had
many interesting experiences during this part of my journey.
At length I reached the abode of the hospitable missionaries on
the Tana, and here I still had the opportunity to observe the
arrangement and management of the Mission ; then I went on
to Lamu, fi-om whence I at once despatched to Germany the
news that you had left the Tana station with your column in
good health, and were probably across the Baringo. In the
beginning of March I reached Zanzibar once more ; there I
fe'^aw Emin Pasha, and was able to deliver to him some of the
things our expedition had brought from Germany.
" I have the honour to sign myself
" Your most obedient
" OSKAR BORCHERT."
APPENDIX. 585
SUPPLEMENT V.
THE UGANDA TREATY.
ENTRE le roi Mwanga Kabaka du Bouganda, et le Dr. Carl
Peters est agr^e le suivant traite preliminaire.
Le roi Mwanga accepte les stipulations du traite de
Berlin (acte de Congo), fevrier 1885, pour ce qui a rapport au
Bouganda et k ses pays tributaires. II ouvre ces pays k tons
les sujets de Sa Majeste I'Empereur d'Allemagne, comme k tons
les autres Europeens. II garantit aux sujets de Sa Majeste
I'Empereur d'Allemagne, comme aux autres Europeens qui
voudront en profiter, entiere liberte de commerce, liberte de
passage, liberte de residence dans le Bouganda et tons les pays
tributaires.
Le roi Mwanga entre en amitie avec Sa Majeste I'Empereur
d'Allemagne, et re9oit la liberte de commerce, liberte de passage,
et liberte de residence pour ses sujets, dans tons les territoires
de Sa Majeste I'Empereur d'Allemagne.
Dr. Carl Peters se charge de proposer la ratification de ce
traits preliminaire au gouvernement allemand.
Ce traite est fait en langue kiganda, kiswahili et fran^ais.
En cas de diff^rente interpretation le texte fran9ais seul fera
foi.
21 fivrier, 1890.
Signed
(-Mwanga, Kabaka wa Buganda ; and all
the great men of the land.
Dr. Carl Peters.
Temoin.
Simeon Lourdel, Superieur de la Mis-
sion Catholique de Bouganda.
LUGANDA.
Kilagano ekyo ekisose, Mwanga kabaka wa Buganda kye
alayana na Dr. Carl Peters.
Kabaka Mwanga, ebigambo eby o Buganda ne bye nsi
586
APPENDIX.
eziingila mu Buganpa ebyatabibwa mu Kilagano kya Berlin
(acte du Congo, fevrier 1885) abikkiriza. Ate abantu bonna
aba kabaka wa Budatshi, abawa nga bwe yawa abazongu bonna
obwinza bwo kuja mu nsi ye. Ate abantu bonna aba kabaka
wa Budatshi abalaganya nga bwe abaganya abazongu bonna
abalyagala, obwinza bwonna o bwo buguzi, o bwo kutambula,
ne bwo kuzimba mu nsi ya Buganda ne nsi zonna eziingila mu.
Ate kabaka Mwanga aingidde mu ayagalo mkwano gwa
kabaka o Mukuru wa budatshi, ate abantu be bonna ne bawebwa
0 bwinza o bwo buguzi, ne bwinza bwo kutambula no bwinza
bwo kuzimba mu nsi zomu za kabaka o Mukuru wa budatshi.
Dr. Carl Peters alitwala ekilayano ekyo ekisose, eri Governe-
ment datshi, kitukkirizibwe.
Kilagano- ekyo ba kiwandise mu luswaili ne luganda ne
lufransa naye oba walio empaka mu bigambo olufransa Ime
lulisara o msango.
27 fehruari, 1890.
Mwanga, Kabaka wa Buganda.
Dr. Carl Peters.
Simeon Louedel.
THE END.
INDEX
Aberdare Range, the, 210.
Accident, a tragic, 258.
Achmed Somali, death of, 285.
Aden, proceedings at, 22.
Adventurous boat voyage, 161.
African tobacco, 442 ; . character, 499 ;
ideas of trade, 500 ; colonisation,
improved prospects for, 588.
Agreement, the London, 133.
Ali Somal, arrival of, 304.
Ambassadress, a Massai, dialogue
with, 250.
Amdalla, porter, 210.
Ammunition, serious expenditure in,
240 ; makeshift, 524.
Ancient records, their teaching, 418 ;
maps and charts, 420, 421.
Angata-na-Nyuki, march to the, 290.
Announcement, a startling, 263.
Ants and mosquitoes, 85.
Anxious night, an, 242.
Appendix, 561.
Arab treachery, a piece of, 109; ac-
count of Ancient Egypt, 424 ;
trader, Mohammed Bin Omari, 517.
Arabs, conversation with, 282 ; visit
from, 284 , in Uganda, 391 ; and
Africans, undependable, 477 ; flight
of, 486 ; of Mkondogna, 552.
Arendt, Herr, explanatory to the
English, 400.
Arendt Bay, 350.
Articles of barter, 49 ; of the Uganda,
treaty, 389.
Augusta Victoria Pall, 201.
Aztecs, ancient sepulchres of, 423.
B.
Baale, arrival in, 458.
Badutschi, the, achievements of, 518.
Bagamoyo, passage to, 30 ; departure
from, 83 ; march to, 555.
Bamberger, his philosophy, 206.
Banana, the, as food and drink, 351 ;
capacities of the tree, 408.
Banquet, a sumptuous, 540.
Barakka, formidable accident of, 179.
Baringo Lake, its surrovmdings, 267 ;
shores of, 272.
Basilid, Br., his plantations, 555.
Belgians, King of, his offer, 544.
Beyma people, the, 416.
Bin Omari, 517 ; interview with, 518 ;
homage of, 519 ; his caravan, 531.
Bismarck, Count Herbert von, com-
munication from, 16.
Bismarck, Prince, encouragement
from, 12 ; change of front, 14.
Bley, Herr, departure of, 31.
Boadicea, the, 49.
Boatmen, dUatoriness of, 443.
Bonfire, a grand, 189.
Borchert and the Ifeosra, 55.
Brag, a game of, 229.
588
INDEX.
Bridge, failure of, across the Tana, 200.
British blockade, I'elations with, 566.
British East African Company, the,
544.
Buana Mku, parting with, 284 ; mis;
behaviour of, 468.
Buana Shama promises a guide, 79.
Bubo river, the, 531.
Budduland, 451.
Bukerebe, island of, 468.
Bukoba, advantages of, 542.
Bulingogwe, 437.
Bumbide, island of, 469.
Busiba, settlement of, 502.
0.
Camel, the voracious, 287 ; death of
the last, 28.
Camp, poetry of life, 79 ; fortifying
the, 258; Stanley's, 344.
Camping, among friends, 269 ; ground,
a confused, 278, a pleasant, 401.
Canal, Siyu, 42.
Candle manufacture, 284.
Cannibal fowls, 514.
Caravan, the Wanjamwesi, 531 ;
Mohammed Bin Omari's, 531 ;
under the German flag, 533.
Centipede, a, 510.
" Chief," confidence in the, 261.
Christianity, prospects of supremacy,
404.
Chi-istmas Eve, a disturbed, 245.
CiviHsation, effect of Stanley's ex-
pedition upon, 548.
CiviKsed hf e, delights and luxuries of,
452, 488.
Coldness of nights, 218.
Combat, a, 289.
Commissariat, importance of the, 277.
Cooking under ditficulties, 296.
Crocodiles, ferocity of, 490.
Culinary science and sport, 206.
D.
Dar-es-Salam, 33.
Deluge, a, 510.
Demand, a categoric, 186.
Deserter, arrival of a, 286.
Desertion, tendency to, 340.
Desolate region of horror, a, 376.
Dhow navigation, dangers of, 41.
Dialects, Suaheli and Kiganda, 417.
Dika, fording the, 208.
Discipline, strict, 94; necessity for,
384.
Discrepancy between Stanley's and
Emin Pasha's accounts, 545.
Djuma, 473.
Dongo Gelesha Range, the, 252.
Donkeys, two useful, 497 ; mischance
through, 512.
Dream, a curious, 293.
Dsagga, land of, 182.
Dumo, description of, 459.
E.
East African disturbances, progress
of, 10.
Eclipse of the sun, 243 ; effect on
Massais, 244.
Elbejet, chief kraal of, 230 ; reception,
at, 231 ; attacks on, 236, 239.
Elgejo, land of, 279 ; people of, 285 ;.
great plateau, 288.
Elgon rock dwellings, 424.
Elmordn, the, among the Massais,-
226 ; villages, 227 ; attack by the,
237; kraal fired, 241.
Emin Pasha, services of, 4 ; conflict-
ing rumours concerning, 14; ac-
counts of, 305, 306 ; proposal to,
316 ; conjectures about, 339 ; ques-
tion of his whereabouts, 344 ;
tidings of, 533 ; Dr. Peters's meet-
ing with, 536; approbation of,
INDEX.
589
338 ; consultation with, 540 ; in
the German service, 541 ; carried
off by Stanley, 543 ; his position on
the Upper Nile, 544 ; discrepancy
between his accounts and Stanley's,
545 ; compelled to follow Stanley,
545; estimate of Stanley, 546 ; char-
acter and amiable qualities, 549 ;
photographic portraits of, 550 ; Dr.
Peters's parting from, 551.
Emin Pasha German Expedition pro-
jected, 3 ; managing committee
appointed, 5, 7 ; resolution for post-
ponement, 12.
Encampment at Ischioragama, 373 ;
a primitive, 471 ; in Bandelundo,
472; at Kuru, 473; at Kabila,
496 ; Emin's, 537 ; a jovial, 540.
Engatana, departure for, 76 ; camp
at, 97.
England, question of co-operation
with, 11.
Enterprise, a dangerous, 367.
Envoys, account of themselves, 343.
Europe, startling news from, 538.
Expedition, Dr. Peters's, frustrated by .
Stanley's undertaking, 548 ; an-
other German, 554.
Emin Pasha, resources of, 31 ;
division of, 56 ; strength of, 70 ;
a previous, 276.
English, rumours of, 95 ; traces
of, 120; letters for, 359.
expected British East African,
316.
- German, 3, 5, 7 ; preparations
for, 17 ; difficulties to be encoun-
tered, 18 ; plan of, 221 ; use of, 478.
idea of a new, 479.
Mr. Pigott and his, 132 ; traces
of, 165.
Mr. Smith's, 96, 132 ; reported
defeat of, 117.
Thomson's, 222.
Mr. de Winton's, 275.
Extract of report to Emin Pasha
committee, 29.
F.
Fabian tactics possible, 244.
Famiae, prospect of, 169.
Feast, a, for the black men, 241.
Fever, return of, 513.
Fighting, the best tactics in, 309.
Fire, an accidelital, 266 ; fire signal,
120.
Flag, the German, advantages to, 399 ;
caravan under, 533 ; hoisting, 113,
136, 258, 486; at Njemps, 273.
Flagstaff struck by lightning, 448.
Foreign Office, endeavours to interest,
28.
Forest scene, grand, 201.
Fremantle, Admiral, conference with,
32 ; proceedings of, 41 ; congratula-
tions from, 559; relations with, 566.
French Mission, the, 384, 451.
missionary boats, 456.
station, arrangements of the,
452 ; Sunday at, 454.
Fugitives on the Tana, 155.
Fumo Bukari's declaration of friend^
ship, 68.
Funga Sombo, swamp and forest of,
65.
G.
Galamba, 154.
GaUa, arrival at settlement, 122.
guides, the, 162.
regions, 116.
Gallas, the, as police, 85; with the,
in Oda-Boru-Ruva, 124; descrip-
tion of, 126, 127 ; sojourn among,
137 ; unsatisfactory relations with,
139 ; decisive measures against,
141 ; policy to be adopted towards,
149; delays of, 153.
590
INDEX.
Gall-Galla, cunning of, 144.
Game animals, a region of, 505.
German Government, embarrassing
position with regard to, 15.
German station, the friends at, 536.
Germany, lively interest in, of expe-
dition, 10.
Gnare Gobit, crossing the, 228.
Gordon, Mr., missionary, and Walker,
379 ; objections of, 392 ; explana-
tion to King Muanga, 394.
Grain, scarcity of, 117; stores seized,
142 ; .necessity of providing, 153.
Gratitude of Emin Pasha for small
services, 550.
Gretchen-Thal, the, camping in, 220.
Guaso na Nyuki, crossing the, 268.
Narok, march by the, 259.
Nyiro, region of, 217; river.
219.
— Tien
264;
of.
265.
Guide, an inefficient, 81 ; the incorri-
gible, 289.
Guides, arrangement for, 283 ; three
Elgejo, 288.
Gumr and El Gumi, 425.
H.
Halt, a compulsory, 257.
Hameje, glorious, and its islands,
158.
Hamiri, failure of, 97 ; imaginative
eloquence of, 103 ; arrival with the
miaus, 113 ; his quarrel with Pem-
bomoto, 118.
Hammock travelling, 514.
Hannington, Bishop, relics of his
party, 350 ; his murder, 364.
HauteccEur, the Pfere Procureur,
484.
Heddenstrbm, missionary, 98.
Heroes, various kinds of, 385.
Hindi, the rendezvous at, 51; start
from, 59.
Hippopotamus shooting, 203.
Hirth, Monseigneur, welcome by, 482.
Hofmann Falls, the, 159.
Hostage, Sultan as a, 115.
Hostility, tokens of, 176.
Human life, cheap estimate of, 358.
Hussein, his idea of justice, 119.
Hussein, the expert cook, 459.
Hussein Fara's comparisons, 181.
Hussein Sheriff, conversation with, 73.
Idyar el Wali's account of the Nile,,
425.
Industry, a prosperous region of, 480.
Ingenuity, mechanical, developed, 386.
Insolence, a decided check to, 523.
Instructing the Somalis, 76.
Insurrectionary districts to be avoided,.
19.
Intertropical starlight, 137.
Intei-vention, importance of, 273.
Iramba, people of, 508 ; plateau, 511.
Ischioragama, encampment at, 373.
J.
Jack, Mr., proceedings of, 318.
Jibije, 164.
" Junker " Range, march through
the, 334.
Justice, to be shown and enforced,
193.
K.
Kabaragas, exciting news in, 516.
Kabaras, fortunate route to, 296.
Kabila, encampment at, 496.
INDEX.
591
Kamanyiro Kanta, 355 ; career of,
356 ; his one-eyed men, 364 ; de-
claration of understanding with,
370, 371 ; diplomacy of, 373 ; sum-
mary dismissal of, 374 ; his appre-
hensions, 375 ; joins procession, 376.
Kamasia Plateau, climbing to the,
278.
Kampi, arrival at, 535.
Karema chosen king, 314 ; defiance
to, 435.
Karl Alexander Fall, 205.
Katikiro, visit of the, 383 ; refusal of,
to sign the Uganda treaty, 390;
rush to house of, 396 ; sentiments
of, 429 ; intrigues, 433.
Katonga, sailing by mouth of the,
451.
Kawirondo, report on, 283 ; people
of, 297.
Keletesa, cordial behaviour of, 503.
Kenia Mountain, the, 210 ; Peak,
219.
Kidori on the Tana, 116.
Kikuyu, stay at, 213 ; mode of killing
cattle, 252.
Kilima Tindi Eidge, 520.
Kiloluma river, erroneous theory of,
181.
Kina Kombe, arrival at. 111.
Kirobani, the guide, 286, 287.
KiswahiU and Kisogo languages, 322.
Kiwewa, the rule of, 313.
Kome, arrival at, 473.
Konse, solemn entry into, 212.
Kraal, burning of a, 239.
Kraals, fortified, 230.
Krapf country, 203 ; Hill, 207.
Krapf's conjectures concerning the
Tana, 162.
Krupp Movintain, 185.
" Kupanda Sharo " feeling, 188; ac-
quaintance declined, 534.
Kwaihu Peak and Island, 38 ; Bay,
arrival at, 39.
Kwam Yagallo, arrival at, 534.
Kwa Sakwa, 303.
Sundu, advance to, 311.
Telessa, march to, 335 ; de-
scription of, 336.
Tindi, particulars concerning,^
333.
Tunga, march to, 335.
L.
Lake Victoria, fish in, 445 ; after
a storm, 448 ; under a new as-
pect, 449 ; flat shores of, 458 ;
view of, 470; volcanic region of,
471.
Landmark, a useful, 292.
Languages, comparison of, 416.
Leikipia, elevated plateau, 163, 219.
Letter-carrying, dangers of, 457.
Letters. — To a possible Eiu-opean,
297; of P6re Lourdel, 319; of Dr.
Peters, 340 ; of Pfere Denoit, 345 ;
to Monseigneur L6on Livinhac,
346 ; for the English expedition,
359 ; from King Muanga, 369 ; of
Dr. Peters to Mr. Gordon, 374;
answer, 377 ; to King Muanga,
392 ; to M. Lourdel, 396 ; to Herr
Arendt, 398 ; Mr. Jackson's, 431 ;
Muanga's imploring, 434; Gabriel's,.
436 ; the Katikiro's, and Dr.
Peters's reply, 449 ; P6re Lourdel's,
463 ; Monseigneur Livinhao's, 464 ;
from Dr. Peters to executive com-
mittee of German Emin Pasha
committee, 566 ; to Captain Car-
dale, etc., 573.
Lindi Mountains, circuit round, 532.
Lion hunting, an attempt at, 491.
Livinhac, Monseigneur, 401 ; opinions
of, 405 ; mentioned, 452 ; inten-
tions of, 455 ; waiting for, 490.
Loanga, stay at, 552.
592
INDEX.
Lourdel, Father, 379 ; his ideas, 381 ;
his quarters, 387 ; about Stanley
and Emin, 440 ; energetic measures
of, 443 ; fatal consequences of
wet to, 444 ; parting with Peters,
445.
M.
Mackay, Mr., despatch, 313 ; opinion
of, 315; his influence, 453.
Mackinnon, Sir William's, bold plan,
441.
Magic ceremonial, 216.
Maize fields, tribute from, 110.
Makenge and Stanley, 522 ; his mes-
senger rebuked, 525 ; submission
of, 530 ; sends tribute, 531.
Malalulu, German flag hoisted at,
113.
Mandutto, water found by, 262 ;
departure of, 513.
Mansamarabu, camp at, 63.
Maps and ancient charts, 420, 421.
Marawa, passage of the, 211.
March, a weary, 119; triumphal, to
Oda - Boru - Ruva, 123 ; through
mountain regions, 191 ; of Decem-
ber 24th, 244 ; by the Guaso
Narok, 259 ; through the Junker
Range, 334 ; to Kwa Telessa, 335 ;
towards the west, 340 ; dietary on,
442 ; a gloomy, 376 ; a morning's,
497 ; through the wilderness, 506 ;
towards the east, 523 ; to Baga-
moyo, 555.
Marching, routine of, 121.
Marco, 342, 347.
Marenga Mkah country, 535.
Marfano, the boats at, 88.
Marka, 25.
Marongo submits to his fate, 187 ;
securely guarded, 192 ; a gentleman
at large, 212.
Marthe, the, arms shipped on board,
21.
Massa, arrival at, 114.
Massacre, danger of, 432.
Massai herds, 229 ; hostile appear-
ance of, 253 ; real condition of
country, 476.
Massailands, guide to the, 217.
Massais, the, management of, 222 ;
character of, 224 ; equipment and
marriage, 227 ; systematic speech
to the, 233 ; preparations to fight
them, 235 ; routed, 241 ; re-appear-
ance of, 248 ; peace proposal from,
249 ; excluded from camp, 251 ;
fear of, 300.
Mbaja, 44.
Mbe people, communication with the,
191.
Mboni, native of, 117.
Mbuji, crossing the Tana at, 108.
Mengo, royal tombs at, 422.
Mfoh, arrival at, 427.
Mgine, landing at, 50.
Miau, the captured, 94.
Miaus, and grain, failure of contract
for, 88 ; a supply of, 110.
Mission, Catholic, thoroughness of,
385.
station, Nyagesi, 474, 484.
Missionaries, Mr. Stanley's opinion
of, 317.
Missionary, an English, 543.
Mitole, dangers at, 99 ; complaints of
elders, 102.
Mkondogna, Arabs of, 552.
Monsoon, the, 89.
Mountain ranges, discovery of, 146 ;
region a, 218.
Mountains of the Moon, 419 ; the
Emperor William II., 161.
Mpuapua, 536 ; station of, 539.
Mrogro, short hoUday at, 554.
Msanga, an early start for, 533.
Muanga, son of Mtesa, 313 ; at the
INDEX.
593
Sesse Islands, 314 ; position of, 315 ;
victory of, 318 ; his message to
Europe, and civility, 433 ; proposal
to write to, 344 ; and the English,
347 ; his uncle, 355 ; letter from,
369 ; message to, 377 ; audiences
of, 379, 384 ; friendUness of, 380 ;
palace of, 387 ; private interview
with, 388; desire concerning slavery,
402 ; dispute with the Katikiro,
432 ; plain speech of, 394.
Muina, difficult march to, 104 ; de-
parture by the boats from, 106.
Musa devoured by a crocodile, 490.
N.
Napoleon Gulf, the, 350.
Nature, grand solitude of, 291.
Nderani, fortified camp at, 109.
Ndinga, 494.
Neoera, the, chartered at heavy cost,
28 ; arrival at Zanzibar, 29 ; run-
ning out from Dar-es-Salam, 34 ;
brought to book, 51 ; lawsuit, 55,
574.
Negroes, severity necessary with,
192.
Nera k)untry, 498.
Ngao, seeking for, 82 ; German mis-
sionary station, 83 ; march from,
87.
Nile, the, questions concerning, 336 ;
Emin's position on Upper, 344 ;
arrival at, 365 ; passage across, 366.
Njemps, start for, 263 ; arrival at,
268.
Nocturnal festival, 115.'
Nogola, misbehaviour and punish-
ment of, 171.
Nomadic herdsmen, social status of,
224 ; propensities and deportment
of, 225.
Nugula, arrival of — report, 441, 442.
O.
Oda-Boru-Ruva, triiunphal march to,
123; with the Gallas in, 124;
communication with, 273.
Omar Idle's exploit, 195.
One-eyed men, Kamanyiro's, 364.
Optical delusion, a strange, 200.
Papyrus swamps, 259.
Parisa's neglect, 169.
Path, a difficult, 264.
Peace, proposals of, from Massais,
249.
Pemba Motu, 279.
Pembomoto's quarrel with Hamiri,
118.
Peters, Dr., appointed commander in
the Emin Pasha Expedition, 8 ; his
opinion of route, 13 ; expedition to
start under, 17 ; illness of, 89 ;
proposed route of, 148; speech to
the Wandorobbo, 167 ; account of
himself, 283; proposal of, 338;
experimental letter of, 340; pro-
posal to visit Unjoro, 343 ; further
intentions of, 349 ; , definite in-
structions of, 371 ; reply to Ka-
manyiro, 373; advice to Muanga,
381; letter to Muanga, 393; pro-
poses to fight Kimbulu, 395 ; reply
to Muanga's declaration, 432 ; will
attack Karema, 435; incredulity
of, 440; attacked by fever, 492;
parting of, from Emin Pasha, 551 ;
return to Europe, 559.
Plenty, a region of, 342.
Philological studies, 96.
Poisoned arrows, attack with, 172.
Political missionary interference, 317.
Porters, disregard of apphcation to
hire, 27 ; unruliness of, 61 ; rewards
38
594
INDEX.
and pvinishments of, 62 ; import-
ance of, 86 ; exciting news concern-
ing, 105; poor Amdalla, 210;
cheating, 216; desertion of, 260;
from the English expedition, 303.
Poscho, distribution of, 488.
Potentate, a jovial, 354.
Purchasing supplies, 271.
Q.
Quarrel of Pembomoto and Hamiri,
118.
Question of ways and means, 270 ; of
reprisals, 279.
R.
Eainy season, the, 58 ; and sickness,
89 ; stormy indications of, 179.
Ratification by spitting, 174.
Rebellion raised by Muanga, 314.
" Red letter day," a, 202.
Reichardt's opinion, 221.
Reports, missing, 146.
Resolution for unity of command, 15.
Rhinoceros hunting, 204.
Ripon Falls, 366, 367.
Routes, Thomson's, unadvisable, in dry
season, 260; northern and southern,
551.
Rukua, first servant to Dr. Peters, 80 ;
as interpreter, 232 ; fatal accident
to, 368 ; death and burial, 369.
Rumours, disquieting, 340.
Rust, Lieut.-Capt., 20 ; instructions
for, 148 ; measures to be taken by,
149.
Rust's column, waiting for, 146.
Sakwa, Sultan, possessions of, 302 ;
politeness of, 308; treaty with, 310.
Sango and the fleet, 460.
Sanguke river, the, 505.
Schopenhauer's philosophy, 250.
Schweinfurth, Professor, first ideas of
expedition, 2.
" Schweinfurth Fall," 207.
Sesse Islands, the outline of, 446 ;
starting afresh for, 450 ; beautiful
landscape of, 451.
Settlement, new, the Von der Heydt
House, 138.
Severity necessary with negroes,
192.
" Shauri " with porters, 85.
Shimbye, landing in, 43 ; passage to,
44 ; doings at, 47.
Short allowance, 94.
Siyu, recruiting at, 39.
Siyu Canal, a new plan, 42.
Somali Achmed, death of, 285.
Somalis, the character of, 58 ; friend-
ly demonstrations of, 72 ; untrust-
worthy messengers, 94 ; the hostile,
143 ; excited, prospects of plunder,
175; and "strayed" cattle, 177;
the discouraged, 254.
Soswa, course towards, 470 ; islands,
471.
Spitting, ratification by, 174.
Sport and culinary science, 206.
Stanley, H. M., departure of, for
Africa, 2 ; camp of, 344 ; his re-
fusal to march to Uganda, 345 ;
report from, 360 ; and the Moun-
tains of the Moon, 419 ; achieve-
ments of, 479 ; and Makenge, 522 ;
carries off" Emin, criticism of pro-
ceedings, 543 ; discrepancy between
his accounts and Emin Pasha's,
545 ; Emin's estimate of, and
opinion of Dr. Peters, 546 ; inde-
cision, 547.
Stephano, serious advice to, 455.
Steppe, the, animal life and climate
of, 101; marching through, 120;
INDEX.
595
its plants and animals, etc., 209 ;
difficult march across, 257.
Stokes, Mr., enterprise of, 315; his
establishment in Ukumbi, 487 ;
business activity of, 500.
Stuhlmann, Dr., meeting with, 537.
Suaheli the, of the Tana, 126.
Subakini, English station at, 112.
Suffering, remembrances of, 99.
Sultana, the unladylike, 512.
Sultanas of Wachore, 354.
Sultans : — Hugo, of Gallas, 125,
negotiations with, 129, his conces-
sions, 131, great consviltation with,
133, remonstrance of, 139 ; Sadeh,
144 ; Gollo, 144 ; Sakwa, of Kawi-
rondo, messages from, 301, proposal
of, 307 ; of Kwa Sundu, visit from,
312 ; Telessa, visit of, 336, second
interview with, 338, his messen-
gers, 339 ; Wachore, power of, 353 ;
Kilioma, address to, 509 ; a seH-
iadulgent, 511; Wagogo sues for
peace, 526.
Sunstroke, symptoms of, 530.
Supper, a comfortable, 256.
Swamp, a difficu.lt and dangerous,
506, 507.
T.
TabaUro, departure from, 466.
Tabora, occupation of, advised, 541.
Talabanga, 342.
Tana, proposed route by, to Equa-
torial Province, 13 ; arrival at, 83 ;
on the banks of, 93 ; scenery of the,
100 ; exhilarating climate of, 101 ;
crossing at Mbuji, 108 ; lowest
middle course of, 114, 129; fire
signal at, 120 ; landscape near Oda-
Boru-Ruva, 129; how to get to it,
142 ; settlement on, 157 ; mountain
chains of, 161 ; question of fords,
178; great cataract of, 181;
abortive attempts to cross, 198;
sinking, 196 ; how to build a
bridge across, 197; rising, 198;
difficult again, 205 ; tributaries of
the, 207 ; difficulty of, overcome,
209.
Teleki Eock, the, 252.
Tell, death of, 205.
Tempests, tropical, 414.
Thomson, effect of his treatment of
Massais, 222 ; " Among the Mas-
sai," 299.
Thoughts in the solitude of nature,
507.
Thunderstorms, 291, 448.
Tiedemann, Herr von, 21 ; illness of,
187, 257, 271, 493, 505, 514, 552 ;
position of, 176; in peril, 238 ; joy-
ful meeting with, 256 ; grave
condition of, 261 ; departure of, to
Lake Victoria, 401 ; meeting of
Peters with, 451 ; ill again, 554 ;
return to Europe, 559.
Tiedemann Hill, 160.
Tippoo Tib, Stanley's relation with,
546.
Tombs at Mengo, 422, 423.
Traces of travellers, 209.
Trade, egotistical ideas of, 184; with
Wakikuyu, 215; important, 390,
391 ; routes of caravan, opening a
direct, 501.
Treaty between Dr. Peters and Sul-
tan Sadeh, 135, 145; of peace,
251 ; signing the Uganda, 390 ;
assembly concerning, 393 ; articles
of the Uganda, 389 ; the Uganda,
585.
Tribute, payment of, a mistake, 498 ;
disagreeable question of, 522; re-
newed demand of, 524 ; Makenge's,
531.
Tropical storm, a, 221.
596
INDEX.
TJ.
Uganda, chances of an attempt on,
316 ; up to, 362 ; journey towards,
363 ; first encampment in, 367 ;
through desert, 371 ; treaty, 389,
585 ; important trade of, 390; and
slave trade, 402 ; cruelty of the
people, climatic advantages of,
414; diiSculties in, 429 ; a lady in,
430.
TJgogo, district of, 517.
Unjoro, 343.
Ukamba Kifcui, steppe of, 207.
Ukumbi, 473 ; removal to, 481 ; road
through, 484 ; Mr. Stokes's esta-
blishment in, 487; order of day
in, 488 ; start from, 494.
Ukumbi fever, 502.
Usagara, arrival at, 551.
Usoga, pleasant life in, 348 ; scenery
of, 349.
Usukuma, important trade with, 391 ;
dry season in, 485 ; general aspect
of, 486 ; a dandy of, 502.
Usure, settlement of, 510 ; impor-
tance of, 513; departure from,
514.
Uweri-weri, 515.
Victoria, Lake, fish in, 445 ; under
a new aspect, 449 ; flat shores of,
458 ; view of, 470 ; volcanic region
of, 471.
Visit to Wachore, 357.
Visitor, a mysterious, 341.
Volcanic region, 265 ; formation,
334.
Voltaire, our Kikuyu, 251.
Von der Heydt House, 138 ; Islands,
157.
W.
Wachore, friendly relations with, 353 ;
visit of, 355.
Wadelai, 1, 3.
Wadsagga tribe, the, 182; haughti-
ness of, 183 ; insolence of, 185 ;
retribution on, 189.
Waelgejo, quarrel with the, 288.
Waganda, the, report on, 308 ; Chris-
tian welcome from, 365 ; boats of,
366 ; great abilities of, 407 ; drum,
409 ; musical proclivities and archi-
tecture of, 411 ; origin of, 415.
Wagandaland, life easy in, 408.
Wagogo, a lesson to the, 523 ; war
with, 525 ; burning of villages,
527 ; cattle seized,. 528, 529 ;
threatening, 530.
Wairamba, peaceable conduct of the,
510.
Waiting, weeks of dreary, 90. ■
Wakamasia, the, and Pemba Motu,
279; the friendly, 280; demand
tribute, 281.
Wakamba, warriors, 167 ; securing
them, 182 ; advice of, 194.
Wakawirondo, 298, 299.
Wakikuyu men in the camp, 210 ;
characters of the, 214 ; hut of,
215 ; trade with, 215.
Wakuafi, the, or dealers, treaty with,
272, 274.
Walker, Mr., visit of, 436.
'' Walpurgis Night '' watch, 492.
Wami, crossing the, 500.
Wandorobbo tribe, the, 165; embassy
to the, 167 ; insolence of ambas-
sadors, 168; negotiations a bad
bargain, 170; insolence, 171;
threatened attack by, 173 ; delays
and evasions, 174; talk with the,
263.
Wanga, visit to, 48.
Wangwana guides, 494.
INDEX.
597
Wanjamwesi, arrival of the, 528,
529 ; caravan, 531.
Wanjoro, white men in, 337, 338.
Want, terrible suffering from, 122.
Wapokomo, camping-place, 82 ; part-
ing from the, 100, 126; charac-
teristics of the, 112 ; cheerful dance
of, 114.
Warriors, defiance of Galla, 141 ;
Wakamba, 167 ; first meeting with
Massais, 229, 253.
Wasekke, tactics of the, 499 ; pru-
dence of, 500.
Wasiba, the, warning to, and reply,
462.
Wasoga, the, report on, 308; men,
the, conversation with, 321 ; ap-
pearance, costume, and weapons of,
352; dwellings, 353.
Wasukuma, good qualities of the,
' 486; protection to the, 488;
probable future importance of,
495.
Water, scarcity of, 36.
Water supply, important question of,
220 ; anxiety concerning, 248 ;
seeking for, 261.
Weapons, confiscation of, 28.
Wembaere, crossing the, 505 ; Steppe,
506.
White race, historic tradition of a,
427.
Widow of Mtesa, her heathen officials
dismissed, 404 ; ignorance of, 406.
Wild cattle, enormous herds of, 294.
Wissmann, Lieutenant von, co-opera-
tion with, proposed, 6 ; arrange-
ments with Peters, 8.
Witu, safe arrival in sultanate of,
45 ; on the march to, 65 ; import-
ance of, 66 ; statistics of the
sultanate, 67 ; stay at, 70 ; supplies
from, 93 ; no hope from, 98.
Women, Wandorobbo, 166; footsteps
of, 166.
Women and children, decision con-
cerning, 155.
Wiirz, missionary, 86.
Year, beginning a new, 262.
Yembamba, narrative of, 156.
Zanzibar, 2 ; Sultan of, 23, 27 ; diffi-
culties and troubles at, 23, 26 ;
caravans, curious behaviour of,
284 ; crossing to, 558 ; old quarters
in, 559.
Zoology, lion and hippopotamus, 180 ;
lions in the bush, 203.
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